Drawing of a house made of timber with dimensions. House made of timber

Since ancient times, people have believed that wooden houses- a symbol of safety and reliability.

Houses made from timber retain heat well and are considered environmentally friendly.

Design of timber houses

The basis for the construction of any building is its design, both for wood and concrete and brick houses, this part of the construction is also applicable for wooden ones. Design wooden houses proceeds in several stages.

Preparatory, when one engineer or team prepares the equipment for subsequent drawing stages required object. It should be noted that earlier, when there were no automated drawing systems, it was necessary to expend a little more effort to obtain the final drawing, and sometimes whole crowds worked on it. With the advent of such systems, the work has become easier, and even one engineer can handle it.

The design stage consists of engineers drawing out the required timber structure using special programs. First, the foundations are drawn, and then the walls of the house, partitions, floors, ceiling structures for the roof, connectors for doors and windows, after which the various loads that affect the house are calculated, as well as the load of the house on the foundation and the ground as a whole. This is done to ensure that the structure is stable and does not collapse in the first month of operation.

Architectural stage. At this stage, the future design of the house is selected. When building a house from timber, one of the following is selected the following types material: profiled, glued, solid timber or rounded log. At the same stage it is selected interior interior, doors and windows.

The final stage is characterized by the completion of all work related to designing the future timber house, and moving on to another stage of construction - preparing a trench for the foundation.

Main types of timber, stages of construction

As mentioned above, timber is divided into four main types:

Glued beam. The technology for manufacturing laminated veneer lumber is as follows: logs prepared for construction are sawn into boards, which are dried, treated with various kinds of antiseptics and eliminated defects tree species(knots, cracks). After preparation, the boards, which are subsequently glued together using heavy-duty waterproof glue, are sent to Hydraulic Press. So it turns out ready material for building a house.

Profiled timber. This building material is obtained by planing or milling. To begin with, the workpiece, depending on the required cross-section, is given a rectangular or square shape. After which the material is placed in a special chamber, where the drying process occurs to a certain humidity level. Subsequently, the material undergoes a profiling process on a machine. In the finished profile, locking connections are cut for a specific project, with the help of which the process of assembling the house takes place. The main stages of construction from profiled timber are absolutely the same as in the case of laminated veneer lumber.

Solid timber is produced mainly by milling on four sides solid log, due to which the timber acquires the correct geometric shape from 4 flat surfaces. When building houses from solid timber, the logs are stacked very tightly together. This is necessary to prevent water from entering the house. This fact subsequently has a positive effect on the longevity of the wood and eliminates the possibility of its rotting. It should be noted that a properly installed structure does not require the use of insulation, as it prevents wind and frost from penetrating inside.

Rounded log. Like the previous one, this type is processed by milling on a special machine, which subsequently produces a log that has the same diameter along its entire length. The main difference between a rounded log and a solid beam is that the log remains round, and the beams are given a different geometric profile.

It is customary to distinguish the following stages in the construction of houses from various types timber:

1. Production and procurement of a set of logs for building a house.
2. Construction of various types of foundations. Mostly slab and bored foundations with grillage are used.
3. Assembling a log house into a single structure and installing the roof.
4. Installation utility networks, which are laid directly in the timber.
5. Clean finish. After installing doors, windows and insulation, all surfaces are treated special compounds for wood, after which the installation of skirting boards takes place.

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden houses

In order to understand whether we are building or not building a wooden house, it is necessary to understand its advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

1. The main advantage of a wooden house is, of course, its environmental friendliness, since various chemicals are not used during construction.
2. Homes, thanks to their cleanliness, are filled with wonderful, oxygen-rich air.
3. Such houses look great even without external decoration, which plays a decisive role for the northern regions. In cold conditions, exterior paint suffers greatly and must be renewed periodically.
4. Low price. Unlike expensive bricks and concrete, almost anyone can afford a log house, and get additional bonus in the form of an interior.
5. Thanks to the tight joining of log parts, houses built from timber have excellent thermal qualities and excellent sound insulation.
6. Easy to assemble structures. Even a person who does not have special skills in construction can assemble his own log house.

Flaws:

1. The main disadvantage of wood is its low heat resistance. This is one of the most flammable materials, and when living in such a house there is a high risk of fire.
2. A long construction process, starting from the development of the foundation and ending with the process of laying the roof.

Tree species used for log houses: main types

At the design stage, it is already necessary to think about the material for the log house. The most commonly used types of wood are spruce, pine, larch and oak. In order to understand what is best for the home, it is necessary to analyze each breed separately.

Oak. This rock is slightly susceptible to rotting processes and is distinguished by its hardness, strength, and resistance to climatic and other types of loads. However, such wood is difficult to process due to its excessive hardness.

Larch. Although larch is a coniferous tree, in its qualities it still resembles oak more than pine needles. The wood of this tree, like oak, resists external negative influences, but in its composition it is the most pleasant material to process.

Pine. This conifer tree, most often used in the construction of wooden houses, as it has the most best qualities for processing: a fairly straight trunk with a good margin of safety; the presence of resin in pine, which improves its water resistance, and therefore this species does not rot.

Spruce. In the construction of houses, spruce is used much less frequently than another coniferous tree - pine. However, in a dry state, spruce is not inferior in strength to pine, and, unlike pine, spruce does not turn blue and does not spoil the aesthetic component. But due to the fact that spruce contains less resin than pine, it is exposed to moisture and, accordingly, rots more often.

To summarize, it should be noted that both when designing and building a house made of wood, it is necessary to take into account many important factors: how long will the project be developed and the construction of the house will continue, what type of timber is optimal for construction, what type of wood to choose? Therefore, in order to get what was planned, it is necessary to approach each stage of construction carefully.

What was done

Project: the Innsbruck project was adapted to the site and the wishes of the Customer's family, and a solution was proposed to move the terrace.
foundation: based on geology and the architect’s calculations, the house was built on a pile-grill foundation.
ceilings: basement - reinforced concrete monolithic; interfloor - reinforced concrete floor slabs.
box: walls made of aerated concrete blocks, masonry with masonry glue. Windows are made to order, with one-sided lamination, installation on site.
roof: metal tiles.
exterior decoration: the walls are insulated with basalt facade insulation and plastered, the finishing elements are made of wood, manufactured locally, based on technical specifications visualization, painted. The base is laid out decorative stone.
interior finishing: finishing was carried out according to the design project, where the combination of decorative plaster with stone and wood was taken as the basis. False beams were installed on the ceilings.
additionally: a fireplace has been installed and finished.



What was done

This is the very case when our Customer and we speak the same language and are inspired by the ECO high-tech style! Designer Ilya came to us with a ready-made Project for his future home! Our team liked the project - after all, such unusual and stylish solutions are always a professional challenge!
We prepared estimates for Ilya and developed unique Constructive decisions- all this allowed us to implement this project! Frame house made using our proven Canadian technology with 200 mm insulation along the entire contour! The outside of the house is sheathed with imitation timber. All windows are made according to individual order and laminated in colors according to the project. Additional accents are placed thanks to professional painting of imitation timber and selection of paints.



What was done

What does it cost us to build a house? Indeed, having a team of professionals and knowledge, building a house from scratch is a matter of time! But sometimes the task is more difficult! We have introductory ones - an existing foundation, or buildings on the site, extensions to an already standing buildings and much more! For the Matsuev family, this was precisely the difficult task. They had a foundation from an old burnt house, and a landscaped area around it! The new house had to be built in a short time on the existing foundation. Dmitry and his family had a desire to build new house in high-tech style. After careful measurements, a design was made that took into account old layout, but had a new one modern form with interesting innovations! appeared at home entry group, where you can sit at a table on cozy evenings and a complex but possible exploitable roof in our area. To implement such a roof, we called upon our knowledge and modern building materials, LVL beams, fused roofing and much more. Now in the summer you can have an unusual dinner on such a roof or watch the stars at night! In the decoration, our architect also emphasized the minimalistic and graphic high-tech style. Smooth plastered walls with painted plank details, and wooden beams at the entrance added personality. The inside of the house is decorated with imitation timber, which is painted in different colors depending on the purpose of the room! Large windows in the living room kitchen overlooking the site created the desired effect of illumination and airiness of the space! The house of the Matsuev family has graced our photo gallery in the section of country architecture in the high-tech style, a style chosen by brave Customers with excellent taste.



What was done

Olga and her family have long dreamed of a country house! A reliable, solid home for living that will fit perfectly into their difficult narrow plot! With the advent of children, it was decided to make the dream come true; children grow quickly and in own home There are many opportunities in nature and Fresh air. We, in turn, were glad to work on an individual house project in classic style made of red brick with a bay window! After the first acquaintance with our company in a cozy office, we invited Olga to take a look at our existing construction site: evaluate the order and construction processes, storage of materials on site, get acquainted with the construction team, and make sure the quality of the work. After visiting the site, Olga decided to work with us! And we were glad to do our favorite job again to make another country dream come true!



What was done

Project: changes were made to the San Rafael project and redevelopment was made according to the wishes of the Customer.
floors: basement - reinforced concrete floor slabs; interfloor - reinforced concrete floor slabs
box: walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks, masonry with mortar??? Windows have been installed.
roof: metal tile
terrace: rough fencing elements have been completed, flooring has been installed.



What was done

Dmitry contacted our company with an interesting preliminary design to calculate the cost. Our experience allows us to perform such calculations based on preliminary designs with minimal errors, no more than 2%. Having visited our construction sites and received the cost of construction, Dmitry chose us from many of our colleagues in the workshop to complete the project. Our team began to carry out a difficult and expressive country project with spacious premises and a garage, large windows and sophisticated architecture. After the project was completed, Dmitry chose us as a contractor company, and we, in turn, wanted to do further work on the same high level! Since the object is large, Dmitry proposed stage-by-stage cooperation, namely upon successful completion foundation works, we started the second part of the project - walls + floors + roof. Also important for Dmitry exact dates construction, in order to speed up the construction processes, the team was reinforced by 2 experienced masons.
The box on a pile-grillage foundation was delivered right on time! The result pleased us and the Customer. All stages of the work were coordinated and worked out for Dmitry and his individual project, which benefited all participants in the process!



What was done

Project: The project of our company Inkerman was changed taking into account the wishes of the Customer’s family, the house was planted on the site, taking into account the existing situation on the site and the relief
foundation: based on geology and the architect’s calculations, the house was built on a reinforced pile-grillage foundation.
ceilings: wooden wooden beams, in places of large spans, installation of LVL beams. Basement ceiling insulated with 200mm basalt insulation; interfloor ceiling with 150mm sound insulation.
box: box: walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks, masonry with mortar. Windows have been installed.
roofing: installation of metal tiles.
external finishing: the facade is insulated with 100 mm basalt facade slabs, the facades are closed facing bricks; the color scheme was proposed by the architect and agreed with the Customer.



What was done

The Krutov family decided to build a spacious house for the whole family to live in!
Olga and other family members went from idea to implementation in several stages! Choosing a technology, working on a project for a long time, building a foundation, building a house with exterior finishing and then working on interior decoration! Frame technology was chosen as energy-saving, prefabricated and high-tech! Why did the Krutovs choose our company? They were pleased with the quality of work on our construction site and the workers who gave us a detailed tour! We also worked on the estimate for a long time, combining different variants finishes, comparing their costs. This allowed me to choose best option from a wide variety finishing materials and complete sets.
The project was created by an architect friend, but we had to work out the constructive part of it. After which the most reliable and effective foundation was erected - USHP. Next, work began on the box. Frame house with 200 mm insulation along the entire contour and unique technology roof insulation 300 mm. For the exterior decoration, siding was chosen in a spectacular combination of colors - coffee and cream. Accents are placed thanks to powerful roof overhangs, an interfloor belt and large windows!



What was done

When you decide to become the proud owner of your own home and move to a new home for permanent residence, first of all, you think about what the house will be like; what to build it from; how much will it cost and most importantly, WHO will do all this?
Alexander, came to our company with the desire to move to his own Vacation home. He liked the Avignon project and there was already a strip foundation. After the initial visit to the site, measurements and inspection of the foundation, we gave our conclusions and recommendations. Strengthen the foundation, change the project and adapt it to the size of the existing foundation! After agreeing on the cost, it was decided to build in winter. Alexander received a gift of reinforced concrete floors, one of the leading construction teams and a house according to the design he liked, which stood on a plot with exterior finishing by spring! Alexander observed every stage of construction, regularly visiting the construction site and was pleased with the result, and we were pleased with our work. This is an individually designed Avignon project, implemented in stone technology with external insulation and siding finishing!



What was done

Each house is a separate story of creation and implementation! One day we built a house good people and they recommended us to another good person! Rumyantsev Andrey came to our company with a desire to replace the old country house to build a one-story spacious country house with a fireplace for warm family evenings... It was decided to build the house from aerated concrete blocks so that the future country handsome man would delight the owner for decades! The customer voiced his wishes for finishing - and we, in turn, brought everything to life. Thanks to detailed visualization of the project, each element of the exterior decoration is a member of a friendly ensemble! Bavarian masonry, as the final stage of exterior decoration, looks noble and thorough. Without a doubt, such a tandem - aerated concrete and brick can be safely called the best solution in the field of stone house construction - warm, affordable, beautiful, reliable. Modern technologies have advanced so much that such unique configurations become available in a short time, because we built this project in winter months. The main thing is to have the necessary knowledge and constantly replenish it!



What was done

Project: the project of a European company was taken as a basis and was adapted to the site and the wishes of the Customer’s family; a terrace and patio were proposed, taking into account the cardinal directions on the Customer’s site.
foundation: based on geology and the architect’s calculations, the house was built on a pile-and-grid foundation.
ceilings: basement - reinforced concrete monolithic; interfloor - wooden on beams with a 150 mm sound insulation device.
box: walls made of aerated concrete blocks, masonry with masonry glue. Windows are made to order with one-sided lamination, installation on site.
roof: metal tiles.
Exterior finishing: the walls are insulated with basalt facade insulation and plastered. Based on the visualization, facade panels under the Tolento stone were added. The enclosing elements of the terrace and balcony are made of wood, made locally, based on technical specifications visualization, and painted. The roof overhangs are lined with soffits matching the color of the roof.



Vladimir Murashkin, The owner of a house “brought to life according to his idea and sketch!” House parameters:

What was done

When Customers come to us with bright, modern ideas future home, we light up doubly! After all, working on a new stylish project is always interesting and a challenge, how to implement all the bold ideas from a constructive point of view, what materials to use? Vladimir bought a plot of land with picturesque views of the Oka bank! This view could not be ignored, so an indispensable attribute of the future house was a dizzying terrace (51.1 m2) and large balcony oriented to beauty! Vladimir wanted to relax in nature in wooden house, and it was necessary to build a house in a short time and the ideal solution for such problems was frame technology construction! If we’re going to be different, it’s in everything! The house was made even more spectacular by the vertical finishing of imitation timber made of durable larch, painted in natural shades with emphasized wood texture. Laminated windows complement the modern look of the house! It turned out to be an excellent country house, with highlights and at the same time incredibly functional.

It all started with an individual project found by the Customer’s family on a European website. It was with him that she came to our office for the first time. We made preliminary calculations for the project, took a tour of the existing construction site, shook hands and work began to boil! The architect improved and adapted the project to the site and the Client’s family; the foreman “planted” the house on the site. Based on geological surveys, it was decided to place the house on bored piles. The frame grew in a few weeks, then the roofing, insulation, exterior finishing! Behind winter period a house grew on the site. The customer invited a third-party technical supervisor who monitored the process independently of our multi-stage control. The color scheme for painting the imitation timber was selected by our manager and here in front of us is the bright and cozy country house of the Pushkov family’s dreams!

I wanted to build a house. I immediately encountered the problem of choosing a material. There wasn’t much money, but I wanted a house that was reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the offers of the modern construction market, I decided to settle on

On the forums they advise building houses with a cross-section of 15x15 cm. But I had to build it myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I didn’t want to involve outside workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter beam. Instead, I bought dry material with a cross-section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the walls from the outside mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

To further save on construction costs, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story as an example of guidance and navigate the situation.

Pouring the foundation

First, I cleared the area under the house from debris, bushes and other things that were in the way. After this, I began laying out the foundation.

I had to think for a long time about what type of foundation would be suitable specifically for my area. I studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. Specialized reference literature helped me with this. Additionally, I asked my neighbors what foundations their houses were on.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions make it possible to save on the construction of foundations, so most neighbors have houses on light supports made of limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse reinforcement - such is the wonderful soil we have. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not “heaving”. The water runs deep, and wooden houses weigh little. Therefore, there is no need to install buried monolithic supports in my region.

I started by digging a trench. To begin with, I removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. To make it seal better, I filled it with water. Then he lined the trenches with stone and laid two reinforcing bars. I tied them up in the corners. I think that the tape is best reinforced both at the bottom and at the top. So I did.

To save yourself from unnecessary work, you could order ready-made construction concrete for delivery. However, in my region this turned out to be unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. And my plot is such that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don’t need that.

Alas, you won’t be able to save this much in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the Moscow region, I would have to make formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour in the building mixture.

While the concrete gains strength (and it needs 3-4 weeks for this), I will start preparing consumables.

Prices for timber

Find out more detailed nuances from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Preparing dowels

The connection of the beam crowns is carried out using wooden dowels. I decided to make them from scrap boards left over from other construction projects. In my case it was the installation of roof sheathing.

For dowels, use wood that is as hard as possible. The process of making fasteners is extremely simple. I took some scrap boards and edged them on one side using a matching saw.

Then I set the stop and started sawing to size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I received neat and beautiful blanks.

I sawed the planks using band saw. On the way out I received a whole box wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my dowels.

Moss preparation

Dowels, sphagnum peat moss and boards

The technology requires that between each crown of timber be laid. Professionals usually insulate roll materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - just roll out the material on top of the laid crown and you can continue working. However, convenience and ease of processing come at a price.

I decided not to waste money and use moss. Firstly, this material is abundant in nature - go and collect it. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulator, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally, I studied thematic forums: moss is actively used as interventional insulation, and there are no negative reviews about it.

Red or peat moss is best suited for insulation. The first one is different high rigidity. The second one becomes brittle after drying. If possible, it is best to use red moss. It's easy to recognize him - this is long stems with leaves resembling a Christmas tree.

Making joints

I make them for every door and window opening. For this I use flat timber. If possible, there should be no knots at all. For greater convenience, I made an impromptu workbench directly next to my stack of lumber. Made longitudinal cuts. A circular saw helped me with this. Excess material was removed using a chisel.

Do correct jamb Not even every professional carpenter can do it. Therefore, I decided to make window jambs using simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a couple of vertical jambs. The window block itself will be responsible for the horizontal connection.

To install the block you need a “quarter”. However, here too I figured out how to simplify the task. Instead of sampling (it's shaded in the photo), I decided to glue in a strip. To do this, I sharpened the plane in advance. The result was no worse than it would have been in a situation using a quarter.

It is impossible to reduce the number of jambs in the doorway - all four are needed. However, the shape of the products can be significantly simplified.

I chose grooves in the block, which in the future will serve as a threshold, similar to the recesses in the side jambs. This allowed me to slide the bottom timber over the tenons of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to be cut with a chisel across the wood fibers - not the most pleasant or simple task. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a circular saw, I prepared the cuts by first setting the appropriate output of the disk and making rip fence.

Then I took a feather drill and made a hole 2.5 cm in diameter, just like for the dowels. Finally, I cut out an even rectangle across the wood grain. A reciprocating saw helped me with this.

Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the threshold, and at the bottom of each vertical jamb they create a counter protrusion, cutting down and sawing out excess wood using a chisel. I decided to make holes as for fastening dowels, and hammered in a couple of fasteners. I made similar holes at the bottom of the jambs.

Upper horizontal beam I haven’t touched it yet, but nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take on the functions of a “quarter”. The design of the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but this does not interfere with its ability to cope with its main function. Later I will plan the opening and glue the “quarters”.

Required Tools

To build a house from wooden beam I used the following tools and equipment:

• hammerless electric drill;
• circular saw;
• roulette;
• sledgehammer;
• electric plane;
• square;
• reciprocating saw;
• plumb line;
• hammer;
• water hose;
• axe.

I bought a circular saw to cut wooden beams. I had to cut in two steps. First, I drew a line along the square, after which I cut, turned the beam over and made the cut again. It is best to transfer the line to the second edge of the beam using a square. If you are confident in your “eye”, you can cut “by eye”.

Using a circular saw, I made tenons and grooves for corner connections bars When arranging the tenons, I lacked a slight depth of cut, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

We are building a house

Rules for laying the lower crown

Laying the starter crown is traditionally done with a joint known as "into the wood floor". This unit can be made without any problems with a circular saw - just cut the material lengthwise and crosswise. In some areas the depth of the cut turned out to be insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material using a chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that is connected with nails.

I placed the lower crown on board linings. There are gaps between the elements - in the future I will make vents there. In my region they are usually in the wall, not in concrete base. This option has its advantages. Firstly, making vents in the wall is easier and faster. Secondly, at a certain elevation the wind moves at a higher speed than directly near the ground, due to which the underground will be better ventilated.

Cutting timber. Half-tree connection

I'm going to mount the floor beams on the pads - this way, I think, the loads on the base will be distributed more evenly.

The linings and timber of the lower crown were covered. As practice shows, the material laid at the very bottom rots most quickly. In my situation, there are pads underneath, and not the timber itself. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the beam of the lower crown.

Reciprocating saw prices

reciprocating saw

Features of laying the second and subsequent crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners I connected the timber with the help of root tenons - the usual joining of elements is unacceptable here.

Taking a circular saw, I trimmed a couple of cuts. I transferred the cutting line to the second face using a square. The root tenon is easy to do, everything is demonstrated in the photo. If the disk output is insufficient, the depth can be increased with a hacksaw. The groove is made even simpler. Also demonstrated, but in the photo.

Important note! Keep in mind that in tongue-and-groove joints there should be approximately a 0.5-centimeter gap for laying the seal. A connection in which the wood simply touches the wood is unacceptable.

I first set the cutting depth I needed. With my saw, you can change the output of the blade without any problems - you just need to loosen the lever. The add-on is convenient to use. If in traditional carpentry production the master sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares required amount blanks of the same type, then in carpentry the situation is somewhat different: the material is dragged onto the workbench, and the depth of the cut is adjusted directly as the work progresses.

My saw is equipped with a thin disk - it takes much less effort to cut. The safety guard moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut in any way.

The walls of my house will be longer than the timber, so I will have to join the building material. To do this, I made a notch at both ends of the long beam, removed the excess with a chisel, and got a tenon in the middle. The ledge is ready, now we need a groove. Cutting wood with a chisel across the grain is impractical. I used a trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second beam. The length of the drill was not enough to create through hole, so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off the excess wood from the workpiece, made markings and cut the timber along the grain using a chisel. Connected the spliced ​​beams. The gaps were filled with moss.

Helpful advice. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting timber, it will not be possible to completely make tenons with a saw; you will need to additionally chisel with a chisel to complete the process. On next photo you see the bars already with fastening spikes. Thresholds for door openings are shown as templates.

I laid the second crown on the lower one, correctly performing the corner joints and the necessary splices along the length. It's time to make markings for installing dowels - the connectors of the crowns of my house under construction. I took a square and made vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and top, in the places where the fasteners would be placed. Turned over the top beam. I moved the markings to the center of my beam. Then I drilled holes for the fasteners and drove the dowels into them using a hammer.

What do you need to know about dowels?

Logically in round hole it would be necessary to drive in a round dowel. Builders adhere to a different technology and use square dowels. Such fasteners are simpler to manufacture and hold the connection much more reliably. In this case, a short dowel will not interfere with the process of shrinkage of the structure.

The problem is that to drill hand drill a strictly vertical hole without the slightest deviation is impossible. When installing the beam of the next crown on a pointed and slightly protruding dowel, the first one will wobble a little. In order for the timber to be firmly fixed, it must be additionally hammered with a sledgehammer.

The dowels I use work for shear and ensure correct shrinkage even if there are minor deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no gaps. Firstly, the timber will shrink. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, which I will discuss later.

Once I had to watch how builders made holes in a wall made of timber using long drill and they drove long round pins into them, outwardly similar to the handles of a shovel or a rake. Were such holes vertical? Naturally not. Ultimately, the beam did not settle, but seemed to “hang” on the dowels, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having driven in the dowels, I laid tow and moss on the crown. He laid the tow across the beams. The moss was simply thrown over the tow. As a result, tow hangs from the walls. This will make it easier for me to caulk the walls in the future. Moss will provide adequate insulation of the building.

I installed the beams on the dowels, laid the tow, threw on the moss, sieged the crown with a sledgehammer, but for some reason it is still wobbly. This happens due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I filled them tightly with moss. A spatula and a narrow strip of metal helped me with this.

The attentive reader will ask: what about tow? Shouldn't it be put in the corners too? No no need. Firstly, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand for quite a long time without any finishing, and sedimentary moisture will continually flow into the corners. Moss will prevent the wood from rotting in these places. Secondly, in the future the timber in the corners will probably have to be planed. Moss will not interfere with this. Tow can cause the plane to break.

Prices for tow

Now my corners are strong, insulated and windproof. At the end of the day I covered the corner joints to protect them from possible precipitation.

In the picture you can see that one of my beams is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We are not in a hurry to immediately turn on the electric planer - such a problem can be easily dealt with using a simple sledgehammer.

I worked with a plane at the very end, when the obstacle to the installation of the next crown became clearly visible. I used a plane to compare small “screws” and “humps”. I compensated for more significant differences in height with the help of tow and moss - their arrangement takes much less time than processing wood with a plane.

Why should we build a house?

You have already become familiar with the basic principles of laying each crown. Eat important nuances. Firstly, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the internal load-bearing wall of the house must be connected to the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding I use an already proven and familiar connection. Only I drill the holes for the dowels “checkerboard” in relation to the lower rims. After this, I lay down the tow and moss, and placing each beam in its designated place, I seal the joints in the corners.

That is, the procedure for building a house is extremely simple:

• I'm laying out another crown;
• I make markings for dowels;
• I drill holes;
• I drive in wooden fasteners;
• I lay down the tow and throw moss on it;
• I repeat the sequence.

Along the length of the beams I join using the “staggered” method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (this is my seventh crown), I made markings for arrangement window openings. I calculated the width of each opening by adding the dimensions of the jambs and sealed gaps to the width of the purchased window block. There should be a pair of gaps on each side of the opening - between the jamb and the window block being installed, as well as between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of this, 155 mm was spent on gaps.

Based on the calculation results, I installed a crown with a window opening, having previously cut tenons in the bars, similar to the stage with openings for doors.

The next crowns with a window opening were laid from timber without tenons, observing the same overall dimensions.

I constructed all the window openings from “short pieces”, the evenness of which was disrupted during the shrinkage of the timber - such material is not suitable for walls, and it would be a pity to throw it away. I didn't make any jumpers. While arranging the opening, I constantly checked its evenness using a plumb line. I also checked the walls.

I temporarily secured the separate partition with slats so that it would not fall during the work. The T-shaped structure, as well as the corner, do not require additional strengthening - they are perfectly supported by their own weight.

Important note! In places where the tenons of the opening and the cutting line are arranged, i.e. just a few centimeters from the edge, I did not lay the oakum, because... when cutting it would wrap around cutting disc. In the future, the tow can be tapped from the ends without any problems.

After laying the last crown with the window opening (it needs to be temporarily laid without fastening and sealing), I removed top bars and made the cuts for the tenons. He put blunts on them. Having set the saw blade to the required depth, I installed a parallel stop to maintain the required distance from the edge. It didn’t take me much time to do this kind of work. I was unable to cut the timber to the required depth with a circular saw - I had to finish it with a hacksaw.

I made tenons at the lower rim of the opening to control my assembly. IN last crown I didn’t do this - in the future, tenons will still have to be created in each beam.

On personal experience I was convinced that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without a connection, and from not quite “short” ones, is not the easiest task.

Light and short cuttings can be tried on before creating a recess or tenon. It may well turn out that a block deviating to the right will fall on a beam that deviates to the left. As a result, a flat wall will be built. If both beams have a deviation in the same direction, you can’t count on the evenness of the wall.

To eliminate deviations, you can plan the “screws” using a planer or lay the timber “ladder”. I had exactly the second case. I also eliminated the gap using a plane. At each stage, I checked the verticality of the openings being constructed using a plumb line.

Installing jambs and finishing work

The upper crown was laid. It's time to install the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements strength will be significantly increased finished design. The bottom beam of each opening is equipped with a full-fledged tenon. On the upper beams there are cuts in the required places. I apply the guide, set the desired cutting depth and make the cut with a circular saw. After this, I draw a couple of lines from the ends according to the dimensions of the tenon and get rid of excess material using a chisel.

My tenons are smaller than the grooves. I fill the gaps with thermal insulation material. If you wish, you can make the tenons wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut off the excess material and fill the gaps with sealant.

I inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I planned to add a veranda to my house. If you are planning to make an extension, do not lay the top crown of the timber before starting its construction. I also mounted a smaller one on the crown.

The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every opening and left the house until the next season. The timber will have time to shrink. After that I will continue, which I will definitely tell you about in my next story.

Instead of a conclusion

While the house is shrinking, I decided to take stock. Firstly, I was pleased that I had to spend much less money on the foundation compared to other types of supports. It took a little money to dump the stone. There is also a lot of sand in my region - you can dig it yourself and bring it. Most of the money was spent on cement and reinforcement.

Secondly, I was pleased with the affordable price and relatively low consumption building material. When the timber was delivered to me, I laid it out in a stack about a meter high and two meters wide. At first it seemed that I had miscalculated somewhere and that I would not have enough material. As a result, about 20 beams remained unused. In general, for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (the timber part of it is 6x7.5 m), I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a cross-section of 15x10 cm. For timber 15x15 cm I would have spent 1.5 times more money. Yes and additional labor you would have to hire, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Nageli made it himself, the moss is free. My friends gladly gave the oakum to me after finishing their construction work.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. Everything that I used for construction will be useful to me on the farm in the future. I am especially pleased to have purchased a good circular saw and concrete mixers.

Now about the speed of work. I didn’t have much experience in timber construction. As practice has shown, in a whole day, working with one hand and provided the weather is good outside, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can do this either faster or slower, I won’t argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that you do not need to have any special skills to carry it out. And I was personally convinced of this.

I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you can, just like me, make your dream of owning your own home come true.

Video - DIY timber house

Having decided on the location and size of the tape, we carry out the markings.

To do this, in the inner corners we drive pieces of steel reinforcement 1 meter long into the ground to a depth of 70 cm.

Instead, you can use wooden pegs of similar length. We install the same racks in places where the jumpers for the partitions branch off from the main strip.

We tie the driven supports around the perimeter with a strong, brightly colored nylon cord so that they are clearly visible. After this, we retreat outward onto the designed tape and perform the second marking contour. Thus, we obtain the boundaries of the future foundation.

The markings should be treated with due care. Mistakes at this stage will lead to problems at all subsequent ones.

Ground work and installation of formwork

The soil between the marking lines must be removed to the required depth. For a permanent structure, it can be 1.5 - 2 meters, depending on the level of soil freezing.

The correct foundation trench contributes to the quality of the strip foundation.

Tape reinforcement

A prerequisite for obtaining quality monolithic foundation is the presence of a recessed steel frame - armored belt. It is made from special corrugated steel rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm, called reinforcement. To connect parts, two main ones are used:

• Gas or electric welding.
• Twisting with soft steel tying wire.

The second option is more widespread, as it can be performed by unskilled workers quite quickly. To carry it out, use a specialized tool or simple pliers (pliers).

To make an armored belt, long rods are cut to fit the sides of the tape and many shorter pieces are installed vertically and across the foundation. The length of the short parts should ensure that the reinforcing frame is indented from the formwork and the top of the foundation by at least 10 cm.

A simple technique will help ensure high foundation strength in corners and at the junction of walls and partitions - lay reinforcement there, previously bent at 90 degrees.

Before installing the armored belt, the bottom of the trenches is covered with clean, seeded sand in a layer of 10-15 cm and carefully compacted, after slightly moistening it. The second layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and compacted as well. After this, you can install the reinforcement and begin concreting the tape.

The correct armored belt is the key to the quality of the base of the house, its foundation.

Concreting the foundation

A mixture of sand, cement and crushed stone with water can be poured into a prepared trench, limited by formwork. It is not difficult to prepare it directly on the site on your own or buy it ready-made at the nearest concrete plant. Both options have advantages and disadvantages.

Self-production of concrete significantly increases the time needed to manufacture the foundation, since it can be obtained in small batches after each loading of components.

It will not be possible to completely fill the tape with concrete in a day, so the work will need to be repeated. The layered structure of concrete is less durable.

Purchasing a ready-made mixture will allow you to fill the foundation with one layer in a few hours. It will be enough to ensure that the mixer can drive directly to the construction site. A significant disadvantage of this is the cost of ready-made concrete, which slightly exceeds the total cost of purchasing its components.

Once poured, the concrete must reach maximum strength before construction can continue. This may take from several weeks to several months, depending on the thickness of the layer.

During the first days, the tape must be kept covered with burlap, which prevents drying out. upper layers concrete. It is recommended to periodically moisten the fabric by sprinkling from a watering can.

Compliance with concrete technology is the key to the quality of the foundation.

We erect walls and partitions - we cut a log house

A log frame made of timber can be installed on a pre-conditioned foundation.

It can be purchased ready-made or made on site.

The second option is longer, since it is very difficult to build a house from 150x150 timber with your own hands without the use of construction equipment.

The weight of such lumber in a wet state can exceed 130 kg.

A layer must be laid on the foundation.

Roofing felt or glassine tapes are often used for this purpose. The first wall parallel beams with the quarters removed at the ends are laid on them.

Perpendicular to them, a couple more parts are placed with grooves pre-selected at the ends, made according to markings using a chain or circular saw. This is how the first crown of the log house is obtained.

At the required distance from the soil, floor beams are cut into the crown, placing them parallel in increments of about a meter. They must be held securely, since in the future they will be covered with boards. Additionally, they can be fixed construction staples, bent from steel rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

To ensure the strength of the wall structure, individual crowns are connected to each other using dowels - wooden cylinders made of hardwood.

To install them in several crowns, as a rule, holes are drilled in three, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the rods. Next, the dowels are driven into them using a sledgehammer and partially deepened.

Thermal insulation of a house under construction can be ensured by laying a special tape between each crown. In the case of using profiled timber, which has a cross-sectional shape other than rectangular, the width of the tapes is taken slightly less; for non-profiled timber it is equal to its width.

As a rule, the insulation is fixed to the lower rims using a construction stapler with staples 10-12 mm long.

The log house is the most important element of the entire structure. The peace and health of residents depends on its quality.

Don't forget to make openings

During the construction of walls, it is necessary to leave window and door openings in external walls and partitions free. Their location is determined according to the project, the height from the floor is 80-100 cm.

To preserve the strength characteristics of the log house before it shrinks in the openings, they try to preserve one middle beam entirely, thus dividing the hole in the wall approximately in half. Subsequently, before installing windows and doors, the data is cut out.

The technology for making openings is simple, but this stage must be approached with full responsibility.

Installation of interfloor slabs and ceiling beams

If according to the project your house has more than one floor, you cannot avoid installing interfloor covering, which will simultaneously serve as the basis of the ceiling and floor. In this regard, high quality requirements are placed on its parts. They must be well dried and have the correct geometric shape.

To install the floors proceed as follows. In the lower crown, at a height of 2.2-2.5 meters from the floor level of the first floor, grooves are made, the width of which is equal to the width of the beams, and the depth is not more than half the thickness of the crown beams.

In the parts of the next layer, similar sockets are made with the same pitch. Place the upper crown with the grooves down and secure it with dowels. You can drive rods through the ends of the cross beams.

Do the same when installing the top attic floor. When the under-roof is not in use, the installation step of the beams may be larger, and when it is in use, it can be smaller.

The safety of residents depends on the quality of the floors.

Roof and roof installation

A complex and responsible structure is the roof of a house.

Errors made during its manufacture can damage the entire structure of the building.

Schematically, the roof can be represented by a set of inclined rafter beams, one end resting on the ridge beam, the other on the upper crown of the frame.

Based on the number of slopes (sloping flat sides), the upper structures of the house are:

• Single-pitch
• Gable
• Four-slope (hip)
• Multi-slope
• Hip roofs (multi-slope with a large rafter angle)

Traditional for our country is gable roof with hemmed gables, as well as an attic with large usable spaces under the roof. It is made from roof trusses, made of rafters connected to each other in the upper third by crossbars.

Install them vertically and sheathe the outside with coniferous unedged board 25 mm thick - lathing.

To cover the gables, an additional frame of bars is attached to the outer trusses. Sometimes they are installed at one or both ends of the house. In this case, you can reduce the under-roof spaces, leaving a few square meters open.

To protect the house from moisture, the roof must be covered with some kind of roofing material. The most common ones today include:

• Profiled sheet – profiled sheets made of galvanized steel
• Ondulin - corrugated sheets of high strength and low weight
• Bituminous shingles
• Ceramic tiles

The specific choice of one type or another depends on a number of factors, not the least of which is the overall construction budget. Some roofing materials are more expensive, while others are quite affordable for every buyer.

Preparing the roof for installation of each specific type of coating is also different. For ondulin and profiled sheets, a standard board sheathing is sufficient. For bitumen shingles it is necessary to lay sheets of plywood or OSB.

For wooden log house it is better to use natural finishing materials. Making a roof with your own hands is not difficult if you follow a number of mandatory rules and process technology. Quality construction can only be achieved by using quality materials.

The final stage of work is exterior and interior finishing.

After installing the roof, laying the roof and sheathing the gables, you need to let the house sit for several months. During this time, a slight shrinkage of the log house will occur due to the drying of the timber.

Only after this can you finish the house - install windows and doors, install interfloor stairs, sheathing the walls outside and inside, laying the floor and hemming the ceiling.

The walls can be sheathed with high-quality eurolining, the floor can be laid with tongue-and-groove boards made of larch or cedar. They will look beautiful and wooden stairs with turned or flat ones, leading to the porch or upper floors.

Thus, we looked at how to build a house from timber yourself, photos of which can be found on every site on the network. The technology of work is complex and will require large quantity time, effort and financial costs, but it's worth it. As a result, you will get a unique structure in which every corner will be familiar to you.

Exterior decoration of a house made of timber - on video:

Many land owners are concerned about the question of how to design a house made of timber so as not to miss anything. If you plan to erect a large building, then it is best to entrust such work to professionals. When you need to build a small country house or cottage with an area of ​​up to 100 m², you can draw up a project yourself.

What to consider before designing

First, decide what type of timber you will build your house from.

Important planning points

• At a relatively low price, . Modern varieties of this lumber – profiled and laminated timber. They do not deform under heavy loads. Buildings made from them are constructed quickly, are environmentally friendly, durable, durable and warm. That's why, optimal solution- choose such a beam.
• Next, determine the location for the house. In all country villages, garden and dacha associations, areas are allocated for development, called the “red line”. Typically, it runs 5 m from the front boundary line of the site to the facades of the building and 3 m from the sides of your territory to the walls of the building.

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