Compost pit drawing. Do-it-yourself compost pit: manufacturing options, photos and useful tips

The better the quality of the soil, the richer the crop grown on this land will be. But it happens that the initial data is not very good, and you have to fertilize the soil. To do this, you can use various fertilizers, but it is best to make a compost pit, which will become a source of environmentally friendly pure material. Let's consider how to make a compost pit with your own hands: manufacturing options and materials suitable for this purpose.

In order to understand how to properly make a compost pit, you first need to understand what it is used for. Typically, a compost pit is used to dispose of organic waste, which, as a result of the rotting process, turns into organic fertilizer. There are many design options and each owner can only choose the most suitable option for himself.

A compost heap does an excellent job of disposing of mowed grass and fallen leaves. Under the influence of time, moisture and microorganisms, all this turns into fertilizer, which can be used to grow any type of crops both in gardens and in the vegetable garden.

Making a compost heap of organic fertilizers with your own hands is not at all difficult, especially since there are many ideas for independent implementation that can be used as a basis. You can make your own compost pit using pallets, which are usually used for transportation and storage. building materials. They can be bought at a fairly low price, or it is quite possible to simply find them on your own site.

How to properly make a compost pit at your dacha: choosing a location

Speaking of arrangement compost heap, one cannot fail to mention the importance of its correct location. First of all, the structure must be sufficiently distant from residential buildings. In addition, the place where it is installed should be well blown by the wind to avoid stagnation of air and concentration of the unpleasant odor emanating from it. In addition, access to the compost must be ensured so that the process of adding raw materials or removing finished fertilizer is as comfortable as possible.

Helpful advice! In order for the rotting process to proceed faster, it is recommended to periodically mix the layers inside the heap. Therefore, even at the stage of planning and arrangement, it is worth considering how this can be accomplished.

In addition, it must be taken into account following criteria selection suitable for the site's compost pit:

• the selected location must be located at a sufficiently large distance from any sources drinking water, for example, a well or borehole. The distance between these objects must be at least 25 m;
• if the site is not level, but on a slope, then you need to make a compost pit below the water level (preferably at the lowest point of the site). This will prevent the entry of rotting waste and clean water;
• You should inquire in advance about the most common direction of the wind, since the pit often becomes a source of a rather strong and unpleasant odor, and can cause discomfort to both you and your neighbors;
• It is worth making sure that there is not only a free approach to the pit, but also enough space to be able to bring in waste or remove finished compost using a wheelbarrow.

Helpful advice! It is advisable to choose a shaded place for the compost pit, since sunlight has a negative effect on the rotting process, significantly slowing down the composting process.

What can and cannot be put in a compost bin

In order for the fertilizer obtained as a result of rotting to be of high quality and bring benefits to the plants and not harm, each summer resident needs to familiarize himself in advance with the list of those products that can or cannot be added to the compost. So, the following are great for composting:

• grass, weeds, leaves, hay, straw, etc.;
• berries, fruits and any peelings from them (raw);
• waste from wood products that have not been painted;
• paper products (napkins, bags, cardboard) in crushed form;
• waste from the preparation of tea, coffee or cereals;
• tree branches and roots after grinding;
• needles;
• herbivore manure (biennial only);
• wood ash.

Important! The percentage of compost containing peelings from products such as potatoes and tomatoes should not exceed 15-20%.

• any plants that have been affected by pests;
• plants affected by diseases of the type powdery mildew, late blight, etc.;
• excrement of domestic animals, as they may be contaminated with helminth eggs;
• bones and leftovers from meat products. They will cause an extremely unpleasant odor and will also become food for rats;
• inorganic waste - plastic, rubber, synthetic fabrics and metal;
• plants that have been treated with herbicides;
• the remains of cabbage, the rotting of which provokes an extremely strong and unpleasant odor.

As for composting weeds, experts recommend putting them in a separate pile, which is covered with film on top. Thus, the risk that the plants will take root again is eliminated and you can count on their death with one hundred percent probability.

If you add weeds to the general pile, you often have to deal with the fact that perennial plants take root, especially if, as a result of regular watering or rain, the humidity is quite high.

Important! To speed up the decay process of waste, it is recommended to first crush it. This is especially true for items such as branches, roots and paper products.

Having figured out what can be put in the compost pit and what cannot, all that remains is to familiarize yourself with the rules for caring for waste in order to ensure that it rots as efficiently as possible. Moreover, the duration of the period during which the compost will be formed directly depends on the correctness of the care:

• Humidity is the most important indicator that affects the rotting of waste and the formation of compost. In order to maintain the desired level, it is recommended to periodically water the pile with a watering can. In this case, it is important that the end result is moist, but not wet, since the abundance of water will negatively affect the viability and activity of bacteria;
• Once a month you need to carefully stir the pile, thus ensuring access to oxygen. This allows the waste not so much to rot as to burn out. At the same time, if it is not possible to completely dig up everything, you can use a pitchfork and pierce the pile in as many places as possible;
• To speed up the process of compost maturation, the addition of nitrogen is required, which is found in large quantities in the green parts of plants, as well as in slurry.

It usually takes 1-1.5 years to form high-quality compost. During this time, almost any waste and residues will fully decompose. You can tell when the compost is ready visually and by smell. Ready mix It is a crumbly mass of brown color and has the smell of forest earth.

Compost pit: what is it and what is it for?

The issue of using compost is one of the most popular. After all, not every summer resident knows how and why to use the resulting mixture, and how great its benefits are. In fact, you can fertilize the soil with compost for almost any plant. Cucumbers, peppers, zucchini and pumpkin respond best to this type of feeding. The result can be seen already in the next harvest season - the fruits grow large, have a bright and rich color, the taste and aroma are well expressed.

But there are also plants for which compost is not so beneficial. For example, root vegetables, tomatoes, melons and watermelons should not be fertilized abundantly in this way, since this leads to a decrease in the yield, and on the contrary, the amount of green mass increases.

Strawberries respond well to compost, especially if you first cut them “at the root” and cover them with a semi-decomposed composition. Then all this needs to be watered, and all that remains is to wait for new fresh foliage, as well as bountiful harvest next season.

Do-it-yourself compost pit: manufacturing options and design requirements

In order to properly build a compost pit, you need to understand how the compost heap should be structured. There are many options for making it yourself, but first of all you should pay attention to the fact that it should consist of three parts. In this case you need to install 8 support posts, each of which is necessarily treated with a protective agent.

Helpful advice! Machine oil, fuel oil or even tar can be used as a protective composition for posts.

A fence can be used as a fence on one side, but boards are better suited for the rest. Partitions are constructed from them, in which holes for ventilation must be left. This promotes the decay process. It is also necessary to install a door that allows access to the compost.

Setting up a compost pit at your dacha with your own hands involves ensuring the proper level of ventilation and at the same time protecting the contents from precipitation. So that the compost heap does not turn into a swamp, during rainfall it needs to be covered with a special lid of a suitable size. And if weather not too harsh, it is quite acceptable to use plastic film for this purpose.

Another option is to use construction pallets, which are pre-parsed. Using a circular saw, the boards can be divided into individual elements, and then assemble a suitable structure from them. In this case, it is better to fasten the boards vertically. The front board can be secured using adhesive composition. To give such a structure stability, it is necessary to use building level and trim the bottom strips.

It is also important that the height of the walls of the homemade composter is such that it is convenient for a person of any height to add, stir and remove compost.

Interesting! You can pay attention to the designs of compost pits made according to Finnish technology. IN in this case Some design features are of interest, for example, when you remove humus from one compartment, it is automatically filled with raw materials from the adjacent one.

Do-it-yourself compost pit: manufacturing options, photo examples

The type of compost pit is determined based on several factors. One of them is the installation method. Let's consider all existing options:

• allocating a specific place for organizing a compost pit. In this case, a pit is initially prepared, which is very similar to a well, but at the same time has a shallower depth. The walls of the pit are additionally strengthened to prevent the soil from shedding and are sheathed at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bottom. This distance is necessary in order to provide the microorganism with free access to the waste;
• Another option is to install a special container in the garden plot designed to collect waste and process it into compost. This method allows you to get the finished product at any time. This design is based on a pit with formwork, as well as a special box made of boards. When implementing this option, it is extremely important to pay due attention to the organization of ventilation;
• a DIY compost heap is the easiest way to solve the problem. To do this, it is enough to make a substrate consisting of sand, gravel and dry grass. Waste is simply placed on top, which will begin to rot on its own over time.

Related article:

Detailed technology for constructing structures: soil preparation, frame manufacturing, its installation and filling.

Do compost bin you can do it yourself using a variety of various technologies and instructions. The proposed designs may differ in the materials required for work, dimensions, properties and ease of use.

Helpful advice! Regardless of the type of structure chosen, before you begin laying raw materials inside the structure, it is necessary to thoroughly loosen the bottom and install ventilation holes.

DIY compost bin: manufacturing options and instructions

Before you make a compost pit with your own hands, it is advisable to consider how more options and structures that can be used for this purpose. We will analyze in detail the instructions for making the most popular boxes made from various materials.

Garden compost bin: features of installation and operation

A garden composter may well be presented in the form of a large box divided into several sections. Usually they make two or three compartments, but experts strongly recommend choosing the option with three sections, since each of them has its own purpose: the first is used for storing waste, the second is for ripening waste, and the third stores finished compost.

Depending on the individual wishes of the owner, the composter can be stationary or mobile (move on wheels). In this case, the recommended height of the box should not exceed 1 meter, and the size of each section should be about 1-1.5 meters.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with a special protective compound designed to provide the material with reliable protection from harmful insects, as well as moisture.

To make a compost bin with your own hands, you need to follow the following procedure:

1. 8 wooden blocks are dug into the ground;
2. Using boards, also previously opened with a protective compound, partitions are constructed. To do this, they are attached to supports at some distance from each other.
3. In the front part, two compartments should be sheathed only to the middle, and only one bottom board should be nailed to the third. The first two have doors mounted on top.
4. The back and end parts are completely sheathed.
5. The entire structure is covered with two layers of moisture-resistant paint.
6. Finally, handles, latches, etc. are attached.

At the bottom of such a box there must be drainage, which may consist, for example, of dry tree branches. Immediately after this, you can proceed directly to placing waste inside the structure.

How to make a compost pit at your dacha using wooden boards

Compost pit - perfect solution, if necessary, do not spoil the appearance of the site with the appearance of a pile of waste. The formation of fertilizer in this design takes much longer, and in order for the process to proceed as correctly and efficiently as possible, it is important to take care of it in advance proper arrangement and ensuring access to the required amount of oxygen.

Work order:

1. First of all, you need to dig a compost pit, the width of which will be 1.5 m, length 2 m, and depth of about 1 meter.
2. You need to dig in the corners wooden blocks, keeping a distance of 20 cm from the walls on each side.
3. In 5 cm increments, boards are attached to these posts.
4. The resulting box is divided into two parts using a wooden shield.

The bottom of the compost pit is filled with a ten-centimeter layer of tree bark, branches and straw. Such a mixture will take on the role of drainage, which will allow drainage excess moisture and additionally ventilate the raw materials.

Initially, only one of the compartments should be filled with waste. Then, when one is half full, the compost needs to be transferred to the second compartment. This procedure will enrich it with oxygen as much as possible.

Important! The bottom and sides of the composter do not need to be covered with anything so that earthworms, which take an active part in the waste processing process, can freely get inside.

How to make a compost bin from slate

Slate – durable material, which is great for creating a structure designed to collect and process organic waste into compost. The procedure for creating a suitable design consists of several stages:

• choosing a suitable location and taking measurements to determine the appropriate size of the pit;
• according to the marks, a not too large recess is dug, in the corners of which supports are installed, for which boards or metal pipes can be used;
• sheets of slate are installed around the perimeter of the pit;
• Using the same sheets, the resulting container is divided into several parts (two or three).

The use of this design is carried out in accordance with all the same recommendations that are given for compost pits made of wood.

How to make a concrete compost pit at your dacha

If you pay a little more time and attention to the process of arranging a compost pit, then as a result it can last several decades without problems. To do this, it is enough to concrete it. You can do this as follows:

• you need to dig a hole about 80 cm deep, 2 m wide and 3 m long;
• make formwork inside the pit;
• then you need to prepare a solution consisting of sand, gravel and cement. To do this, you need to pour 5 liters of water into a bucket and add 5 kg of sand and cement to it so that the ratio of dry components is 3:1;
• the resulting solution is poured into the formwork;
• using wooden boards and a chain-link mesh (a metal frame is also suitable), a cover is constructed for the pit.

It is very important that when using boards to mount the cover, there is a distance between the elements necessary for normal ventilation.

Compost pit using Finnish technology: secrets of installing the structure

The main requirement for structures made using Finnish technology is compliance certain sizes. The height and width of the box must be the same and be 1 m. This is extremely important, since in a smaller box the raw materials will simply dry out, turning not into compost, but into dust. Large sizes are unacceptable for another reason - in this case there is a risk of burning the contents from too high a temperature.

To make such a structure, it is best to use wood. Slate in this case is not a very suitable option, since structures made from it are characterized by a longer period of waste decomposition. Again, cheap and at the same time quite convenient option– Finnish compost pit made from pallets.

Algorithm for assembling a compost pit using Finnish technology:

1. The frame of the box of the required size is assembled from wood pre-treated with antiseptic agents.
2. Then finished frame covered with boards. The boards are placed tightly only on the partitions separating the compartments. On the side walls, the boards should be spaced with a 1 cm indentation.
3. The rear wall of the structure is also covered with boards at a distance of 1 cm.
4. The bottom of the box is covered using a slab. At the same time, it is also important to maintain some distance between the elements so that excess liquid can be effectively drained.
5. A small door is installed in the lower part of the front wall of the structure, the height of which is usually 30 cm. It is secured using ordinary door hinges.
6. The roof of the structure is made gable, with one of the slopes attached to hinges so that it simultaneously acts as a door, providing the opportunity to pour waste inside.

Interesting! In one box, the size of which is 1x1 m, you can prepare an amount of compost sufficient to fertilize a plot of land of 5-7 acres.

Compost pit-dry toilet: what is it?

Another special type of compost pit is a dry closet, which can also turn human waste products into compost. It is a structure consisting of two containers, each with a volume of 80 liters.

The use of this type of dry toilet is as follows: after visiting the toilet, you need to turn a special handle, which is responsible for supplying a portion special mixture consisting of peat and sawdust. Thanks to this mechanism, the mixture is distributed evenly and covers up the waste that gets inside.

It is quite possible to use such a composter-dry toilet for recycling not too much food waste, simply by throwing it inside and filling it with dry mixture. When the first container is completely filled, it must be moved away and the second one installed in its place, which can be used in the same way. At this time, the first container will contain a compost mixture, completely ready for use.

Important! The compost obtained in such a composter will be very concentrated. This must be taken into account, and before adding it to the soil, you need to dilute the mixture with soil, sand or peat.

Criteria for choosing a ready-made composter for a summer cottage

At the same time, an increasing number of owners suburban areas are trying to stop using homemade designs, giving preference to purchased models. Let's consider what advantages and disadvantages ready-made structures have, and what parameters you need to pay attention to Special attention, before making a purchase.

In most cases, preference is given to simple and convenient composters that are easy to assemble and operate independently. But since the number of offers is modern market is extremely large, it can be really difficult to decide on the most suitable option on your own. Experts recommend using certain criteria as a guide, since models can be:

• collapsible or integral;
• with temperature sensor;
• with special device, which allows you to loosen the contents;
• with a mesh instead of the bottom, which provides protection from rodents;
• various shapes and sizes.

Composters also differ in the material that was used for their manufacture. Thus, plastic is the most popular today because it is light in weight, which allows it to be moved around the site without problems, and its service life is extremely long. If the design is planned to be stationary, then you can consider purchasing a metal composter. On sale you can also find wooden models, but they are not very common due to their short service life and exposure to external factors.

How to choose and buy a compost bin: review of the most popular brands and models

As examples, we can consider several composters that are the most popular and have received many positive feedback from users.

L&T Globe Composter: Features and Specifications

This model is highly valued by permanent residents of country houses, since it can be used throughout the year, and not every product can boast of this. The development of L&T Globe was carried out by Finnish specialists who took into account the harsh weather conditions of the local climate. This allows the composter to function without problems even in the harshest winters.

Another advantage of this model is the absence of small and heavy parts, so operating the device is quite simple. The working volume of the container is 310 liters, and durable polyethylene was used as the manufacturing material. In order for the system to function during the cold season, a 15-mm layer of thermal insulation was provided, which allows maintaining an optimal temperature inside.

Thanks to low altitude This composter can be filled and emptied by a person of absolutely any height. Moreover, for even more comfort, the design includes a removable upper part.

Thus, all these design features allow you to create the maximum favorable environment for efficient waste composting. The microclimate maintained inside the container promotes the growth and development of microorganisms capable of processing waste. The developers did not forget about the ventilation system, which is presented in the form drainage holes at the bottom of the composter.

Important! The ventilation system of this model can be used in two modes: summer/winter. It is important to make the switch in a timely manner using a shutter specially designed for this.

Bulbeo composter: features and benefits

This model is the development of Italian specialists, which exists on domestic markets in two modifications that differ in size (700 and 900 liters). Initially, this model was intended exclusively for processing plant waste, but, as practice shows, it also copes well with composting other organic waste.

This composter is a collapsible model and consists of separate parts that can be easily assembled and, if necessary, disassembled again. This allows you to move the container from one place to another and even transport it. Moreover, when disassembled, this design takes up very little space and can easily fit in the trunk of a regular car.

Among the main advantages of this choice are:

• the ability to gain free access to the structure from six sides;
• It is convenient to remove the finished compost thanks to the hinged doors;
• This model looks quite aesthetically pleasing on the site, since its shape resembles a blooming bud;
• the discreet dark green color allows the structure to fit organically into any landscape design.

The material used for this model is durable plastic, which provides reliable protection of the contents from wind and strong temperature changes. According to the developers, the rounded shape of the walls promotes the ripening of compost.

Of course, there are also ventilation holes to provide access required quantity oxygen. Anyone can easily assemble this model, because it does not require any tools or additional fasteners. Weighs finished design only 19 kg and its height is 885 mm.

Products for compost pits: features and advantages of use

Having figured out how to make a compost heap, many expect that they will soon be able to use the nutritious fertilizer made in it. But the reality is that the natural ripening of compost can last up to 2 years. Of course, you can just be patient and wait. But you can go the other way by buying special remedy, promoting compost maturation and accelerating this process.

Interesting! The issue of using excipients is especially relevant for those regions of the country where the warm period is short. If warm weather lasts only 2-3 months, then the compost maturation period has to be shortened artificially.

So, there are several drugs that are well suited for this purpose and are recommended not only by specialists, but also by real users. They all have different names but, in general, the principle of their operation is the same. As an example, consider the drug Tamir.

Tamir is an extremely complex drug, which includes a whole complex of microorganisms that, in the natural environment, are responsible for ensuring the decomposition of organic debris and waste. Due to the high concentration of these bacteria, the composting process occurs many times faster, and after 2-3 weeks full maturation occurs.

It is worth noting that compost obtained in this way is not completely decomposed waste and has a slightly different consistency than usual. But its final decomposition will occur directly in the soil, which will bring even greater benefits to the plants.

Important! It is believed that compost obtained as a result of exposure to auxiliary preparations, as a fertilizer, is many times more useful than that obtained naturally. Therefore, answering the common question, is it possible to use products for compost pits, the answer is unequivocal - not only is it possible, but even necessary.

All products of this type are used according to the following technology:

• if the pile has not yet been formed, then the drug is added on top of each new layer, after which the whole thing is watered;
• in the already prepared heap, you need to make a depression at full height, into which the drug and water are added.

Other ways to speed up compost heap maturation

In addition to complex preparations, you can use other methods to stimulate the processing of organic waste and the maturation of compost in the pit. Let's look at each of them in more detail:

• the use of rotted manure, which is quite capable of replacing biochemical preparations intended for composting. At the same time, it is prohibited to use fresh manure, since it can become a source of not only helminth eggs, but also weed seeds, pathogens, etc.;
• a solution made from ordinary yeast. To prepare it you will need 1 liter of water and about 1 tablespoon of dry yeast. To this add 200 grams of sugar (1 glass). This solution is poured into the depressions made in the compost heap;
• herbal infusion. To improve the effect it is mixed with chicken droppings or slurry in a ratio of 5:2. It is important to know that the amount of nitrogen contained in fresh bird droppings is much greater than in manure, which means the ratio should be different.

Helpful advice! In order for the compost heap to naturally get regularly bird droppings, you can install a feeder above it. This will greatly facilitate and speed up the process.

Methods to accelerate ripening also include artificial moistening of raw materials, turning them and other measures designed to create the most comfortable microclimate for composting.

How to make a compost pit at your dacha with your own hands

Whatever design is chosen for making compost, it is unlikely that its appearance will ultimately be attractive enough. Chances are, no one wants to look at a compost bin, so it might be helpful to think about how you can use it. original design to improve its appearance.

The problem of camouflaging a compost pit is especially relevant for small areas, since almost the entire territory is in plain sight. Although it happens that even for spacious areas, owners use different design strategies to give the compost pit a more attractive look. So, in order to hide such an object, you can use:

• camouflage with plants and hedges;
• artificial decorations and stationary fencing.

Work related to the manufacture of artificial fences must be carried out in an open area located at some distance from the location of the compost pit. This is necessary in order to make it more convenient to work and to be able to move freely without being exposed to discomfort from the smell emitted by the heap.

The main requirement for such a fence is that it should hide the entire site from the eyes of guests and owners. That is, the compost heap should be completely hidden behind it, and the appearance of the fence should be as attractive as possible and be in harmony with the environment.

It takes much longer and to some extent more difficult to create hedges for this purpose. But they look much more natural and elegant. The main thing is to pay attention to the choice suitable plant so that in the end the hedge is not too bulky and lush, and does not break the overall structure of the site.

Helpful advice! You can use light translucent screens entwined with vines as a fence. They cope with the task perfectly, and at the same time do not take up much space, so they are quite suitable for both large and small areas.

The best ideas for decorating a silo pit

Other elements, for example, special screens or screens, can be used to disguise the place where the compost heap is located. Bamboo fences have proven themselves to be excellent. Plants also look good if you carefully plant them in a row.

At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to build a compost pit directly under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death. You need to maintain some distance between the compost and the plants.

The most popular design methods are:

• planted in a row fruit trees and berry bushes;
• potted gardens placed on several levels to hide the entire structure;
• installation of a small architectural object: a gazebo or a fenced barbecue (of course, in this case it is worth taking care that the unpleasant smell of rotting waste does not interfere);
• flower beds with tall plants;
• supporting wall.

Separately, it is worth noting the camouflage of compost heaps if a plastic container was used for them. In this case, it is not at all necessary to completely mask it. You can use it as a decoration for the area, painting it in bright color and planted around beautiful flowers. You can draw any design on such a container, thus giving it originality.

The easiest way to work is with small compost pits, which can be hidden with an abundance of flowers or even shrubs. By the way, a compost yard is a great place to experiment with growing new varieties of annual plants.

You can clearly see how composters for your dacha are made and designed with your own hands by watching training lessons and detailed instructions. You just need to decide which design is best suited in a particular case, and also take into account your own individual requirements and wishes. Otherwise, no problems will arise, since there are as many options for do-it-yourself compost pits as there are ready-made models.

How to make a compost pit with your own hands: video instructions

At country houses and personal plots Often the problem of disposing of organic waste arises - leaves, weeds, cleaning, sawdust and other things. Unlike inorganic waste (glass, plastic, etc.), all this can be used to produce clean, environmentally friendly fertilizer - compost. It turns out due to biological process decomposition under the influence of microorganisms. Adding compost to any soil improves its quality characteristics. Clay soils acquire a lighter, crumbly structure, and sandy ones retain moisture better. Let's look at how you can make a compost pit and prepare compost correctly.

The following organic wastes are suitable for raw materials, which are divided into two large groups.

Brown waste

These include those that emit carbon.

Green waste

Waste that releases nitrogen is considered green.

• berries, vegetables and fruits unsuitable for food and processing;
• drunken tea and coffee cake;
• stubs and cleaning;
• scraps of wool;
• leftover soups, cereals;
• eggshell;
• waste products of herbivores.

When adding a large amount of freshly cut grass, the compost preparation time will increase significantly. To speed up the process, lightly cover small layers of grass with soil.

What should you not put?

Not all organic matter is suitable for fertilization.

The following cannot be placed in a compost bin:

• fresh pet excrement;
• loach, wheatgrass;
• bones;
• leaves and other parts of plants affected by diseases, especially powdery mildew;
• plants treated with any chemicals;
• weeds whose seeds have ripened;
• inorganic non-degradable waste (rubber, metal, glass, synthetic materials);
• tops of potatoes and tomatoes;
• fats, meat, dairy products;
• fresh and boiled eggs(except the shell).

Potato and tomato tops, even healthy-looking ones, can be carriers of late blight. Subsequently, such fertilizer can infect all plants. In addition, this raw material takes a very long time to dispose of; the process will take about 5 years.

Anything that is not suitable for a compost pit should be thrown into a cesspool or removed from the site as garbage.

Requirements for placement

A place on the site is chosen, as a rule, out of sight and one that you don’t mind - where nothing grows due to dense shade or infertility of the soil, somewhere behind outbuildings, if any, in the outskirts.

There are other important points.

• You need to understand that rotting raw materials will not emit the most pleasant smell, so you should think about moving away from the resting place and about the neighbors. It would be good to know the compass rose so as not to place the pile on the leeward side.
• Consideration should be given to ensuring free access to the pit, since raw materials will be added and taken constantly throughout the season.
• It is advisable to choose a site on a flat surface, and not in a hole, perhaps with a slight slope, to prevent stagnation of water, which interferes with the flow of oxygen, and therefore extends the process over time.
• The compost heap, although called a pit, must be higher than the ground level. In this case, it will warm up better, it will be more convenient to loosen, water and generally maintain it. The optimal parameters are 50 cm deep, 1 m of fence above the ground. Higher walls will make it difficult to loosen and use compost.
• Avoid proximity to a source of drinking water (must be more than 25 m).
• The place should be in the shade or partial shade - sunlight slows down and dries out the raw materials.
• Do not place the structure under trees, they may get sick and die. Neighborhood with conifers and other evergreen crops is especially not recommended. Best neighbors there will be alder and birch.

Do not cover the bottom of the pit with film, slate or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through! It must penetrate from the soil unhindered (depthing will facilitate this), otherwise everything will dry out. The bottom should remain earthen.

Design features

The ideal dimensions of a structure are usually indicated by the parameters 1.5m x 2m, but ultimately they are determined based on the amount of raw materials that can be accumulated in 2 years. This is how long the process of preparing the finished substrate will take. Therefore, the ideal pit should be twice as large and two-section, designed to last two cycles. The first compartment will contain ready-made waste, the other will contain fresh waste over the next two years.

It is important to know that a small pit will not warm up well as a result of rotting, and this temperature may not be enough to kill all pathogenic microflora and harmful spores. Experts determine desired temperature at 60C and the above-mentioned optimal sizes.

The structure must have a removable lid on top.

Design options

You can arrange a compost pit in different ways; let’s look at several common options.

Regular pit

The simplest construction that does not require additional costs and materials. A shallow hole is made, no more than half a meter deep, into which everything is folded according to the usual principle. The contents are covered with black polyethylene on top. To make it easier to remove for adding waste or using, it is rolled on both sides onto a long handle, which also serves as a load. After each new laying, it is recommended to cover the waste with grass.

The option is simple, but it is difficult to call it effective and convenient. There will be difficulties with mixing, and such a pile will not be able to warm up sufficiently, which means that it will take a longer time for it to rot.

Two-section composter

The material for production can be boards, old slate, metal sheets, corrugated sheets, walls from plastic containers, brick, etc. Optimal sizes depending on the size of the plot - 1.5-2 m wide and 2-3 m long. Make a deepening of 0.5-0.8 m. To secure the structure in the corners (stepping back the required distance from the hole), pipe sections or metal rods are dug in large diameter, capable of supporting the weight of the compost heap. Wooden pillars they are not suitable for this purpose, since the process of decay will invariably affect them, and the structure will not last long due to the load.

Install the walls, not forgetting the ventilation holes. A partition is installed in the middle, dividing the structure into two equal-sized compartments. Ready humus will be stored in one of them, and “young” waste will be stored in the second. It is better to make the lid hinged, on hinges, so that it does not move and tightly covers the contents.

Reference segments metal pipes it is advisable to treat with an anti-corrosion bioprotective composition, and all wooden parts - protective impregnation, and then cover with two layers of acrylic paint.

The bottom, as already mentioned, cannot be covered with waterproof material, but straw, sawdust or tree bark are perfect for this - they will provide the necessary air exchange and allow excess moisture to escape quietly.

If desired, you can make three sections. In the first there will be a ready-made substrate, in the second there will be a fully laid ripening one, and the third will be intended for laying new raw materials.

Single section composter

More simple and sufficient compact version. You will have to take the finished product from below, for which you need to make a hole in one of the walls (or better yet, on different sides), from which the ripe fertilizer will be removed. There should be a distance of at least 30-40 cm between the wall of the box and the ground. In this case, there is no need to mix the substrate.

Concrete box

A structure that will be completed literally once and for all. Neat and reliable. To do this, you need to dig a trench of the required perimeter with a depth of 70-80 cm and make formwork. Pour concrete into it, remove the formwork and remove the soil from the box to the required depth. Can be used as a cover wooden shield or film pressed with a metal mesh.

Ready made plastic container

The modern market offers ready-made composter structures made of plastic. They have different size(within 400 -1000l), the necessary ventilation holes (make sure of this!) and a lid.

Their cost depends on the size, design and region and usually ranges from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

Do not make compost pits that are too large; their contents will overheat, which is also undesirable, since this will lead to the death of the necessary microorganisms.

How to properly fill a compost bin?

Before laying the raw materials, clear the bottom of the pit from the turf and dig it well to a depth of 30 cm. This will provide conditions for the active life of worms and the penetration of beneficial microorganisms, which will provide indispensable assistance in the waste processing process. In addition, excess water will drain well into the loose soil.

We begin laying, alternating layers of wet and dry, brown and green raw materials. Their optimal ratio should be approximately the following: 3 parts brown waste to 1 part green waste, and there should be 5 times more wet raw materials than dry ones. Anything large should be broken or chopped.

Moisten (not too much) and close with a lid.

The raw materials should not be compacted too much, but excessive looseness is also undesirable. Everything should be in moderation, especially humidity.

Storing compost is not everything. Proper further actions will help speed up the decay process and make the fertilizer more nutritious. Please adhere to the following guidelines.

The following additives help speed up cooking.

• Rotted horse manure.
• Some types of plants (valerian, chamomile, dandelions, yarrow).
• Specially produced activating preparations, for example, Baikal EM-1, Compostin and Compostar.
• Stale (dried) bird droppings.
• Legume stems.
• Bone and dolomite meal.
• Superphosphate and complex mineral fertilizers.

As the contents rot, the temperature inside rises, and light steam may even rise from the heap. This is normal and indicates that everything is going well.

Spare no effort and time for this simple structure. This will solve the problem of recycling a considerable part of organic waste, and will provide valuable fertilizer, the quality and environmental friendliness of which you will be absolutely sure of.

Compost bin. How to make a compost box with your own hands: drawings, photos, videos, options for making a composter.

This homemade product will be of interest primarily to summer residents and owners of garden plots, because we will talk about soil fertilizers, in particular compost.

Compost is a product of the decomposition of organic substances under the influence of microorganisms; in fact, compost is the best organic fertilizer.

To get high-quality compost, when building a compost bin with your own hands, you need to follow simple rules:

The main condition for compost maturation is the flow of oxygen into the compost heap; oxygen is necessary for the life of microorganisms, therefore, when making a compost box, you need to provide side ventilation holes in the structure.

Another advantage of using a box is that precipitation will not wash fertilizers into the soil, all valuable substances will remain in the box, and you will get truly complete compost. Therefore, it is advisable to equip the box with a lid.

Compost matures faster in the lower part of the compost heap, so you need to think about access to the bottom layer in the box and equip the box with a door or removable boards.

To ripen the compost best place Place the compost bin in a shady area at the edge of the garden or garden.

Compost bin drawings.

Let's look at a few drawings for manufacturing wooden box for compost.

Single section compost bin.

Multi-section compost bin.

You can build a box from old boards, timber, you can use boards from wooden pallets, you can use any wood that is on the farm.

The composter can be made into 2 - 3 sections, while in one section the fertilizer ripens, in the other you can use ready-made compost.

Making a compost bin.

Let's look at the example of making the simplest composter. The design of the box consists of support pillars that are dug into the ground, optimal height the ground part of the pillars is 1.2 m. The pillars can be made from 100 x 100 mm timber or logs.

But the lower part of the supports must be treated with an antiseptic or used motor oil so that the wood does not quickly rot. As an option, you can use the old-fashioned method: part of the pillars that will be in the ground can be charred at the fire; charred wood is more resistant to rotting.

We attach the side walls to the supports, fill the boards with nails or fasten them with self-tapping screws; it is advisable to leave a small gap of 1 - 2 cm between the boards for ventilation.

It is advisable to make the front wall of the box openable, this will greatly simplify the unloading of compost; just open the front door and you can pick up compost with a shovel without much effort. Instead of a door, you can make removable boards; you need to nail guide rails to the support posts and insert them into the grooves of the boards.

For the composter, it is advisable to make a lid, attach the lid to the box with canopies, and make a handle. Since wood is susceptible to rotting, the box must be treated with a safe antifungal impregnation and preferably painted.

The DIY compost box is ready, The final stage laying compost. A layer (hay, grass, leaves) is placed at the bottom of the box, then tops and vegetable waste can be placed.

DIY compost bin options.

Compost can significantly improve the soil, regardless of its type. If it is clayey, it will become more crumbly, but if it is sandy, it will retain moisture better. But the price for it is quite high, and there will also be costs for delivering compost to the site, so people began to make compost pits themselves in order to fertilize the soil, but at the same time save money. It accumulates in any home a large number of organic waste, so why throw it away if you can build a hole, and this waste will benefit the soil. In this article we will look at how to make a compost pit with your own hands at the dacha and how to operate it correctly.

• The size of the pit should be based on the approximate amount of garbage that can accumulate in a year, and then will rot for at least one year.
• The process of removing humus and mixing it should not be complicated, so the height of the walls has its limitations.
• The pit can be made either open or closed, one or two sections.

• The compost should not contain weeds or their seeds.
• The contents of the compost pit should be freely accessible for worms.
• It is necessary to equip a convenient approach so that there are no difficulties with the removal of humus.
• Iron can be added to the bottom, which will also benefit the compost over time.
• The smell from a closed compost pit should not leak outside.
• The compost pit should not be located in direct sun.

Compost pit technology

How to make a simple compost bin

The design of a compost pit depends on its future purpose; if it is equipped simply for the disposal of organic waste, then it can be made according to the simplest scheme.

• A hole is dug about 40-60 cm deep and 60-70 cm wide;
• a layer of dry grass and straw is placed at the bottom;
• After each waste disposal, a layer of grass is again laid on the garbage. This is necessary so that there are no flies and there is no unpleasant odor;
• This type of pit should be made somewhere in a remote part of the site, but not near the neighbors’ fences.

Do-it-yourself concreted compost pit

• This is a more labor-intensive construction. It consists of two equal compartments, one of which is intended for old compost, and the second is used for regular replenishment. This design has a lid that lifts up when necessary to collect fertilizer or throw away waste.
• To ensure high-quality compost, it is better not to use weeds for its preparation; they can leave behind harmful seeds in the soil.
• It is necessary to provide access to a closed composter for earthworms, otherwise the compost will take much longer to mature.
• In addition, it must be equipped in such a way that it looks like a decoration on the site and has a neat appearance. But ventilation must be present, so plant climbing plants not recommended with dense foliage.

Stages of work

The process of constructing such a compost pit is quite labor-intensive.

• It is necessary to completely level and remove the top layer of soil;
• then a hole is dug, about 60-80cm deep. The optimal length is 3m and width is 2m;
• Next, formwork is constructed and the walls are filled with cement mortar or concrete, the thickness of which should be approximately ten centimeters.

Tip: for proper construction of a compost pit closed type it is necessary to prepare a concrete solution, following all the rules. It seems that there is nothing complicated about this, but in practice it often turns out the opposite. To avoid problems and not have to spend a lot of time correcting errors later, it is better to do everything correctly right away.

A concreted compost pit will have everything required properties for timely processing of compost if the proportions of all components from which the concrete for its base is made are accurately observed.

To create the solution, you will need:

• river sand,
• Gravel,
• Cement,
• Water.

Sequencing:

• First, you need to pour gravel into a twenty-liter bucket and shake it very well;
• After this, water is slowly added using a measuring cup. If this bucket contains ten liters of water, therefore, the gravel component is 50%, and the required ratio is two to one. This means that another 10 liters of river sand should be added to a twenty-liter bucket of gravel;

• such a solution should contain as much as possible less water to avoid the appearance of bubbles in the future. If the composition has a high water content, then after it dries, a large number of voids are formed.

Advice: one more important point The main thing in preparing a mixture for a pit is that you need to mix the solution very thoroughly. This is probably even more important than precise observance of all proportions, so it is recommended to do this with a concrete mixer rather than manually.

A closed compost pit can have one section, but it is better to immediately make it with two sections. In the second case, it is more convenient to use, especially if it is decided not to use drugs to increase the rate of compost maturation.

If the decay process takes place naturally, it will take about two years. Then it is very convenient to use each section separately. The first year you can use one, and when the second year begins, throw the waste into the second part. While in one compost reaches the desired state, another one is used.

Building a tall compost heap with your own hands

A wooden compost heap is easy to build even without experience in construction. At the same time, it can be made in such a way that it will not interfere with either the summer residents themselves or their neighbors.

• Stands should be installed at the corners of the pit. The base for them is made of pipes, and the part that is above the surface of the ground can be made of timber with a cross-section of 10 cm;
• One edge of each bar is sharpened to fit the size of the pipes. It is first recommended to soak all wooden parts of the structure in a special solution so that they do not succumb to the processes of decomposition and rotting;
• Next, the bars are driven into the pipe scraps and onto them. aboveground part transverse boards are filled that will serve as the walls of the pit;

• It is better to fasten the boards using self-tapping screws or metal corners, which will provide more reliable grip;
• finished walls are covered with paint, preferably acrylic.

Some of the nuances in this work must be taken into account:

• the diameter of the pipes must match the size of the bars;
• the height of the walls usually does not exist more than a meter, this is due to the fact that large and tall structures ultimately turn out to be inconvenient to use, since it complicates the process of digging and extracting compost;
• The simplest version of a removable cover is a regular sheet of plywood, which is attached to the back wall of the structure with hinges. The compost ripens best when the lid is closed, but you still need to open it sometimes to ventilate the fertilizer.

What is compostable and what should not be put in a pit?

So that the fertilizer can ripen in a timely manner and at the same time not lose its beneficial features for the soil, you should know exactly what is suitable for the compost pit.

You can put:

• raw vegetables, fruits, berries, cereals, straw, grass, hay, ash, foliage, pine needles, bark, branches, plant roots, sawdust, shredded paper, herbivorous animal manure.

You cannot put:

• bones, excrement of carnivorous domestic animals, potato and tomato tops, any greens after treatment with pesticides, weed seeds, any synthetic waste, as well as tops of infected plants.

The right compost pit

For compost to form successfully, it needs certain conditions:

• moisture;
• warm;
• oxygen.

For creating greenhouse effect still unripe compost must be watered (especially in hot and dry summers), and, if necessary, covered with film. A good reaction also requires oxygen; its access is ensured by loosening the waste with a pitchfork.

If it is not possible to arrange a pit, water it, and so on, then you can simply put organic waste in one place, where compost will form over time. This is, of course, not the most The best way from an aesthetic point of view, but it has a right to exist.

• In order for such a heap to be equal in functionality to a compost pit, it is necessary to add special preparations to it.
• You will also need to periodically cover it with dark material to speed up the compost maturation process. In a covered pit, the compost will be processed within 3-4 months, but if you keep it open, the process will take about six months to a year.
• You cannot put polyethylene at the base of the heap, which will block free access to water and oxygen. If the ground under the compost is covered synthetic material, then the moisture from the heap will evaporate very quickly, but will not be able to rise from the ground.
• When adding contents to a compost pile, it is recommended to alternate between manure, grass, waste and soil whenever possible. During extreme heat, you need to water the pile so that required quantity moisture and composting processes were not disrupted.
• It is convenient to make two piles side by side or one large one, but on two sides; this is a simplified version of a two-section box. When the compost is ready on one side and can be regularly spread on the beds, waste is thrown onto the other side of the pile.
• When the compost heap reaches a size of about one meter in height, it is advisable to use fertilizers. To do this, make several deep holes and pour the solution into them. In the warm season, you can replace them with Californian worms.

Correct location of the compost pit

Before you set up a compost pit at your dacha, you need to choose the right site for it:

• The pit should be located at a distance of at least twenty-five meters from sources of drinking water (wells, boreholes, etc.);
• If the site is located on a slope, then the pit is equipped below the source of drinking water, this is necessary so that rotting waste through the soil cannot get into clean water;
• It is necessary to take into account the most frequent direction of the wind so as not to cause significant inconvenience to neighbors, especially if the pit is not covered with a lid and emits strong unpleasant odors;
• There should always be free access to the pit, which will ensure convenient removal of garbage using buckets or removal of humus using a wheelbarrow.

• The compost pit is made as far as possible from residential buildings. It should be in partial shade, since under sun rays all processes occurring in it will slow down.
• The area for the location of such a pit must be level.
• You should not allow water to stagnate in it - this will interfere with the access of oxygen.

Plastic compost bins

• This method is good for those who can allocate funds for its purchase and want the appearance of their site to be more presentable. It can be installed absolutely anywhere. But you will have to take into account the presence of an unpleasant odor, because you will need to regularly open the lid to ventilate the contents of the container.
• Constant access of oxygen to the compost is ensured by special holes, also necessary to prevent excess moisture from stagnating.
• The peculiarity of using a plastic container for a compost heap is that it is necessary to use special preparations to speed up the composting process. Drug replacements can be provided earthworms, if they are specially planted in this container.

To save money and benefit the site, a compost pit is an excellent solution for fertilizing. It is very simple to set up and operate it; you just need to know a few rules. But at the same time, you will always have ready-made fertilizer for the soil on your site.

Photo of compost pit

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