Were finished, it was time to think about separation internal space for separate rooms. total area log house 6x4 m, so I included in minimum required steam room, washing room and vestibule. The vestibule was fenced off during the construction process. All that remained was to decide how to separate the steam room and the washing room. Having sifted through a lot of literature, I came to the conclusion that the easiest way to make such a partition is using frame technology. Firstly, it is built very simply and quickly, I did it in 3 days. Secondly, the price was almost pennies. Thirdly (very important!) lightweight frame and practically does not load the foundation. I will describe how the construction was carried out.
Step 1. Assembling and fastening the frame
The most labor-intensive part of the work is assembling the frame from 50x50 mm bars. I decided to collect it immediately on the spot. First, the lower beam was nailed to the floor joists ( bottom harness), the outer racks were attached to it and the walls. Placed on top and secured top beam(top trim).
Installation of a timber partition frame
I would like to note that only 4 months have passed from the construction of the log house to the installation of the partition; shrinkage is still ongoing. Therefore, I left a gap of 2 cm between the top frame and the ceiling - to compensate for shrinkage deformations of the log house. The gap was filled with jute felt. All this was done in the expectation that when the log house shrinks, the ceiling level will drop and be set just at top harness partitions.
For greater rigidity, metal corners are screwed in at the junction of the side posts and the trim.
Racks were installed at 600 mm intervals, and an opening was made for door block and brick oven screen. It is important to note here that the stove is planned to be fired from the washing room, so its front part with a brick shield must be built into the partition.
All gaps between the walls, brick panel and frame beams are filled with jute felt.
Step 2. Insulating the partition
I decided to implement the internal filling of the frame according to this scheme:
Scheme internal filling and sheathing frame partition
As insulation, I used Technoblock Standard basalt wool (TechnoNIKOL) - in the form of slabs 50 mm thick. According to the manufacturer, this material must withstand heating up to 400°C, not burn or melt. Also basalt wool non-hygroscopic, suitable for damp rooms. Even if a drop of moisture gets into the partition (despite the vapor barrier), the inside will not begin to rot. Well, it is also important that basalt wool is absolutely safe for health and does not emit anything when heated.
The width of the wool slabs is 600 mm; when installing between the racks, they had to be compressed a little. A sharp knife was used to cut the slabs (if it was necessary to install parts, for example, above a shield, above a doorway).
Basalt wool slabs between the pillars of the partition frame
Step 3. Sheathing the insulation with foil (from the steam room side)
On the steam room side, the insulation was covered with foil in 2 layers. I think foil is the best vapor barrier for a steam room. Firstly, it does not allow steam and dripping moisture to pass through. Secondly, it increases thermal insulation properties partitions (or walls), as they reflect infrared radiation.
The foil I bought turned out to be thin, so I decided to lay it in 2 layers. First, the first layer was shot and the seams were sealed with foil tape. Fastening was carried out using construction stapler, on the frame posts. On top, at intervals with the first layer (so that the seams do not coincide), the second layer is laid. The seams, holes from the stapler, and corners are also taped with tape.
When I unfolded the foil and then pulled it onto the frame, in some places it became thinner and began to wrinkle. There were no holes, but, for my own peace of mind, I also sealed these damaged areas with tape.
Sheathing the insulation with foil (vapor barrier) on the steam room side
The joints between the brick panel and the foil are heat-resistant silicone sealant(antifungal). This sealant dries quickly and bonds diverse surfaces well.
Step 4. Covering with waterproofing (washing side)
From the washing side, there is no need for foil; you can get by with waterproofing. To do this, I bought a roll of vapor-permeable membrane “Izospan A”. On the one hand, it will prevent splashes of water from the washing machine from entering the insulation, and on the other hand, it will allow the insides of the partition to “breathe” and be ventilated.
I secured the Izospan A sheets with an overlap to the frame posts. I covered the seams and holes from the stapler with tape.
Fastening sheets of waterproofing "Izospan A"
Step 5. Fastening the lining (from the washing side)
The paneling was done from the washing room side. Here I had some thoughts waiting for me. The neighbor argued that the ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the lining is a useless thing, taking up space and not affecting anything at all. At the same time, a builder I knew proved the opposite. It seems like the gap allows condensation, if it forms, to flow down the vapor barrier and not be absorbed into the lining. I thought that this opinion was more sensible and made a mistake. Although, I'm not entirely sure of its necessity.
To organize the gap, slats are placed on the frame posts. Their thickness is the size of the gap. I used 15 mm slats and nailed them onto the posts using regular thin nails.
The top of the slats was covered with pine clapboard. To protect against moisture and add color, I walked over the surface with the antiseptic composition “Supi saunasuoja” (Tikkurila) in 2 layers. The wood is tinted perfectly, the color is even and beautiful. Was bad smell from the antiseptic, after 3 days it completely disappeared.
Covering the partition with clapboard is done using thin slats
Step 6. Attaching the board (from the steam room side)
I decided to cover the partition on the side of the steam room not with clapboard, but with a board 35 mm thick. This board is used, once lay on the floor in the house. The floors have now been replaced, but the boards are still in good condition. Although it already looks pretty worn out, blackened, and stained. To give the board new life, I sanded it well grinder. Half an hour of work and upper layer removed! The board turned out almost like new.
Again, a ventilation gap was formed, this time 20 mm thick. The slats for it were used with a section of 40x20 mm. I nailed the slats to the frame posts, and boards on top of them. All fastenings were made with nails.
After finishing the planking, the surface of the boards was covered with “Supi saunasuoja” (Tikkurila). The antiseptic dries quickly, I painted the partition in 2 layers in a day.
I plan on lower in the future interior walls The frame and partitions should be tiled with a height of 1 tile. This will prevent rotting lower crown log house and partitions located in humid conditions of a steam room and washing room.
This is what a frame partition looks like in a log bathhouse!
This is the partition I made in the bathhouse. Fast, inexpensive and without assistants. I’ve already had time to take a steam bath in the steam room to evaluate the quality of the fence. What do I want to say? The thermal insulation qualities of the structure are excellent; in 2 hours the bathhouse warms up completely. Due to the removal of the shield in the washing room, the washing room also warms up during heating. There is no condensation on the partition, the coloring composition does not change its color.
The good thing about a frame partition is that it can be easily installed in any bathhouse. Be it in a log house, or in a brick or gas silicate building. This design is universal, and its content can be changed depending on its purpose.
The division of the internal space of the bathhouse is carried out using partitions. We will tell you about their types, features and structure in this article.
Designing partitions in a bathhouse
Before making partitions in the bathhouse, you need to determine the area of the planned premises. Their sizes depend on the dimensions of the building and the number of regular visitors. Based on this data, the plan links the bulkheads to existing walls baths indicating axial dimensions. The location is then determined doorways and quantity required material.
The following can be used as partitions in a bath:
- Transformable structures - sliding, soft folding, rigid doors, sliding and screens.
- Stationary structures - brick, wood and glass partitions.
Each type of stationary bath partition has a number of advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account when choosing the type and material of manufacture of a particular structure. Since the main part of the bath bulkheads is stationary, there is a need to talk about them in more detail.
Features of a brick partition in a bathhouse
Brick partitions are made not only in stone baths, but also in wooden log houses. This is especially true in cases where the furnace door of the furnace is removed from the steam room into the dressing room or rest room, and the dividing partition is combined with the heating device.
Advantages and disadvantages of brick partitions for baths
Their advantages are due to excellent physical characteristics:
- Brick partitions have good soundproofing properties. Half-brick bulkhead structures have a “noise” insulation index of 47 dB.
- Brick is a moisture-resistant material. With high-quality bath ventilation, the appearance of fungus and mold on such a partition is unlikely.
- Brick bulkheads are fire resistant and inedible by insects and rodents.
- Significant weight of the partition: with its thickness of half a brick, the mass of 1 m 2 of masonry is approximately 280 kg.
- Long production time for partitions made from piece material.
- The need to plaster the structure before finishing it.
The cost of 1 m 2 of brickwork is from $10 and above, the cost of work is from $7 per 1 m 2.
Installing a brick partition in a bathhouse
To construct such a partition, half-brick or brick masonry is used. Before starting work, you should stock up on: a sand sieve, a container for preparing the solution, a shovel, a hammer, a plumb line, a level and a trowel.
The installation process is carried out in the following sequence:
- The work site is exempt from extra items, supplied with lighting and necessary materials.
- The contours of the planned partition are outlined on the walls, floor and ceiling of the bathhouse.
- From sand and cement sifted using a sieve, a dry mixture is prepared in a ratio of 3:1, for example, 2 buckets of cement are taken for 6 buckets of sand. In the container, the resulting mixture is mixed with water until it becomes uniform and has a plastic consistency.
- Before starting work, the floor must be removed wood covering, and from the walls - cladding at the junctions of structures. Surfaces are cleaned with a wet broom.
- To lay the first row of masonry evenly, a cord is stretched along its edges, serving as a guide for the location of the bricks. The mortar of the first row is applied to the base of the partition, and the second and subsequent rows - to the surface of the previous row and the end part of the brick. The verticality of the masonry is controlled using a plumb line and a building level.
- The door frame in the partition opening is placed in advance and secured in it with the help of spacers, the brick is laid close to it.
- The partition is laid with ligation of the seams in the vertical direction. To achieve this effect, the second row of bricks must be started by laying half of the product.
- To ensure the strength of the masonry, every five rows of the mortar bed are reinforced with steel strips or rods.
- Above door frame As a jumper, you can install a piece of channel 30-40 cm longer than the width of the opening.
- Ceiling gap at last row masonry is eliminated by laying waste bricks soaked in mortar, small cracks are sealed with tow.
- To lay communications in a brick partition, it is necessary to provide for the installation of embedded sleeves. The material for them can be pieces plastic pipes length corresponding to the thickness of the partition. The voids between the sleeves and the masonry are filled with polyurethane foam.
On the washing compartment side, the partitions are usually covered with tiles, protecting the brick from moisture. In the steam room, such a partition is insulated, sheathed with foil heat-reflecting and waterproof material, and then lined with natural wood.
Features of a wooden partition in a bathhouse
Wooden bulkheads can be single, double or framed. For baths, due to their “extreme” operating conditions, frame-sheathing structures are more suitable.
Pros and cons of wooden partitions for a bath
The advantages of such partitions are very significant:
- The material used to make them is environmentally friendly.
- The possibility of making a frame partition in the bathhouse with increased strength that can withstand more than 150 kg of load.
- Lightweight wooden partition. With a thickness of 150 mm, the weight of 1 m 2 of the structure is 90-92 kg.
- Good sound insulation, its index reaches 41 dB.
- Wooden structures are afraid of water, so they need waterproofing.
- The material of the partitions is edible for rodents and insects; impregnation of wood with antiseptics can eliminate this problem.
- Wooden partitions are flammable, their fire resistance is 0.2 hours. Partial protection impregnation of the partition elements with a fire retardant serves to protect against fire.
The cost of 1 m 2 of wooden partition ranges from $20 and above, it depends on the cladding material.
Construction of a wooden partition in a bathhouse
Let's consider the construction of a wooden partition between the steam room and the sink in the bathhouse. The step-by-step process looks like this:
- Assembly and fastening of the frame. This is the most labor-intensive stage of the work. For the frame, timber 50x50 mm or 50x100 mm is used, its assembly is carried out on site. Two bars for the ceiling and floor, with a length of each of them corresponding to the width of the partition, are fixed to the corresponding structures using dowels. The same should be done with the bars for the walls. They are cut to the height of the room and fixed between the floor and ceiling bars in increments of 600-120 mm. The doorway is formed using transverse bars. For rigidity, it is additionally equipped with intermediate posts on both sides.
- Insulation of the partition. Insulation is placed between the frame posts. The material for it can be basalt wool with a slab thickness of 50 mm and a width of 600 mm.
- On the insulation side of the steam room, the frame is sheathed with foil, the heat-reflecting side of which should face the inside of the room. The material is stapled to the frame posts. The seams between the panels are taped with metal tape.
- The insulation is covered from the washing compartment of the bathhouse waterproofing membrane type Izospan. Its fastening and sealing of seams is carried out similarly to the previous option.
- Partition lining. To obtain a ventilation gap between the back side of the future sheathing and the waterproofing layer, thin slats 15 mm wide are placed across the racks. The lining is attached to them. The same operation is performed from the side of the steam room using foil material. All wooden frame elements must be treated with an antiseptic.
Features of a glass partition in a bath
Unlike Soviet times, today's glass partitions are fashion element design with a variety of decorative solutions.
Advantages and disadvantages of glass partitions
Modern glass partitions in a bathhouse can be made from glass blocks - a kind of transparent “bricks” made of glass 6-10 mm thick. Their surface can be corrugated, smooth, matte, transparent and colored.
Manufacturing glass partitions has certain advantages:
- The partitions look impressive, are durable, strong enough, and fire resistant.
- They have good heat and sound insulation characteristics.
- They transmit light, for transparent blocks this value is up to 80%, for matte and colored products - up to 50%. The patterns of corrugated blocks give a bizarre play of light and shadow.
- The material of glass partitions can withstand temperature changes from -40 to +50 degrees. In the event of a fire, a structure made of transparent blocks can contain the spread of smoke and flame for two hours.
- Glass partitions are easy to clean and do not absorb odors; they are not afraid of rodents and insects.
- The internal surface of the partitions excludes the laying of any communications - electrical wiring, plumbing, etc.
- You cannot hang shelves or pictures on a glass wall.
- A separate block is not cut when installing the partition.
The cost of glass blocks depends on their type. Industrial products are the cheapest, their price is 40-60 rubles/piece. Colored blocks are more expensive - 160 rubles/piece. The most expensive are blocks with a pattern obtained by sintering glass different colors. Their price is more than 1500 rubles/piece. The cost of installing a partition is more than $20 per 1 m2.
Installation of a glass partition in a bathhouse
Installation glass partition for a beginner - not an easy task. Used for laying glass blocks cement-sand mortars with a fine fraction of filler or “liquid” nails. There are two installation methods: adhesive cement mortar and into modular cells.
The first method is like leading brickwork, it is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming:
- The base is cleaned of dust, debris and dirt, and then leveled.
- The first row of blocks is set by level. Plastic crosses are placed between them to create seams of the same thickness.
- The masonry is reinforced horizontally and vertically with iron rods with a diameter of 6 mm through two blocks. It is recommended to lay no more than 3 rows per day due to the weight of the products - raw bottom seams masonry may shift due to gravity.
How to make a partition in a bathhouse - watch the video:
The question of bath partitions is quite extensive. We hope that the information provided in the article will help you choose a material and even make a partition in the bathhouse with your own hands.
We will talk about a frame partition in a bathhouse made of log house separating the dressing room and the washing compartment. The choice in favor of these rooms was made so that it could be shown how to make a partition with your own hands between such seemingly different bath rooms in their functionality.
The wooden partition, which will be discussed in this article, is wooden frame, insulated with mineral wool and covered with clapboard.
Considering that the washing compartment has insulated and reinforced concrete screed 150 mm thick, then a concrete curb 125 mm wide and 100 mm high is made to install the base of the frame. In addition, a concrete border will allow you to lay ceramic tiles along the partition, insulating wood paneling walls from water.
A concrete border can be made both during the pouring of the screed and during the installation of the partition, using homemade wooden formwork. To better bond the concrete being poured to the floor, its surface should be treated with deep soil and concrete contact, for example, from Knauf.
The vertical posts of the frame are made of planed bars: the internal ones are 50x100 mm, and the outer and doorway– 60x100 mm. The horizontal tie bars (top and bottom) have a cross-section of 60x100 mm. All jumpers are made of 50x100 mm timber.
The base is attached to the concrete curb using 16 mm anchors. The outer posts are installed in the groove in and secured to it with 8x90 mm hex screws. To ensure that the frame does not interfere with the settlement of the log house, the racks are made oval longitudinal grooves. This will allow the screws to slide along with the wall and not create unnecessary stress on the frame, and with it on the entire partition.
The top tie bar does not reach the ceiling by 30 mm. This gap serves to compensate for settlement or expansion of the log house as a result of atmospheric phenomena and the change of seasons. The groove in the wall is cut to the full height, starting from the floor in the dressing room and ending with the ceiling.
Mineral (basalt) wool 100 mm thick, for example “Rockwool”, is used as insulation. Some frame cells have dimensions of 600x1200 mm, which corresponds to standard sizes produced cotton wool. The wool is closed and secured with a stapler on both sides of the frame with a plastic film, which prevents moisture from penetrating into the wool, thereby preserving all its heat-insulating, sound-absorbing properties.
The eurolining is fastened with clamps on a lathing made of 25x50 mm planks. The sheathing itself is mounted on top of the plastic film and attached to the frame with wood screws. The direction of laying the lining is from the very corner of the partition using the tongue-and-groove method, and not vice versa. From the dressing room side the most bottom bar the lathing is additionally secured to the floor, and in the washing compartment it is placed on a concrete curb and attached only to vertical posts frame.
The final finishing of the partition is done after installing the door frame. First, skirting boards are installed, which at one end are inserted into the groove of the wall. Then the edges of the partition are closed with a board (platband), which are also inserted into the same grooves.
The upper casing is attached directly to the ceiling with the condition that it will move freely with it during the process of settling the log house, without affecting the partition itself. The gap between the ceiling and the top of the partition is sealed with cotton wool or other heat-insulating material.
Connections wooden elements are made using galvanized wood screws. Open parts are also secured with self-tapping screws. To prevent the screw heads from being visible, you can pre-drill a stepped hole, and after screwing in the self-tapping screw, close it with a wooden dowel (pin) of the same diameter.
On the washing side, the bottom of the wall is finished ceramic tiles, and then the lining is placed on it end-to-end. A strip (plinth) is attached to the bottom of the lining along the entire partition to the frame posts, which covers both the lining and part of the tile.
The procedure for constructing a frame partition with your own hands
Perhaps I shouldn’t have described the design of a wooden partition in such detail, but started right away with the order of work for its installation. However, what is done cannot be returned. And whoever is not interested in this can immediately go to this section of the article, using it at the beginning.
Preparation of concrete base and log walls
Installation of a wooden partition frame
Note: at this stage of work it is necessary Special attention pay attention to the accuracy of the alignment of the frame frame, as this will affect the quality of the entire internal wall. Verticals, horizontals, flatness, dimensions - all this will affect what kind of partition we get.
Insulation and installation of sheathing on the frame
Note: the film can be placed under the base of the frame already at the stage of its installation. Then the issue of securing it in the lower part will be immediately resolved.
Installing a door frame into a partition opening
Ceramic tiling in the washroom
This operation can be performed both before and after clapboard covering. The main thing is that the junction of the forcing and the end of the ceramic tile should be made accurately and without gaps. As for laying tiles on the floor, this can be done at any time.
Sheathing with clapboard on sheathing
You need to start from the very corner. The lining is sheathed using the “tenon and groove” method. That is, the last fixed element must have an open groove. 
Each subsequent element is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the previously fixed lining, and with the help of metal clamps (fastening brackets) is secured to the sheathing. The last lining is cut under right size and secured with self-tapping screws. You can see details on how to attach the lining.
Installation of platbands, baseboards and sealing of partition edges
Finally
This version of the wooden partition design is intended for a log bathhouse, which has stood for the required time and has completely settled. The compensation gap (30 mm) between the partition and the ceiling is designed only for changes in the dimensions of the log house under the influence of atmospheric influences and weather conditions.
If there is a need to build a partition in the bathhouse before the log house has completely settled, then this gap should be increased to 60-80 mm.
On the side of the washing compartment, the frame lining can be made of waterproof plasterboard. In this case wooden sheathing should be replaced metal profile. Such a partition can be easily tiled with ceramic tiles and easily installed there.
It should be remembered that the cut grooves in log walls reduce their strength. Moreover, the deeper and wider the groove, the less strength the wall is. To protect the logs from rolling out (deformation), you should already tie the logs at the site of the proposed partition at the stage of wall construction wooden dowels, as a rule, with a diameter of 30 mm. You can read how to do this in the article about.
Go to main article-contents: SergeyEven the smallest bathhouse usually has two rooms: a dressing room and a steam room combined with a washing room. But here the question arises: what kind of partition should be between them? Wooden or brick? And how to build it correctly from the point of view of heating the premises?
In this regard, we have home handyman may arise a large number of questions that we will try to answer in this article.
What you need to know about partitions in the bathhouse
Before building a partition in a bathhouse with your own hands, you should take into account a number of features. In addition, there are different requirements for wooden and brick buildings.
About partitions in wooden baths
Wooden baths include those built from timber, logs, or assembled using frame-panel technology.
Advice!
Experts do not recommend installation, especially if irregular operation of the building is planned.
The fact is that with an internal brick wall you will need more time to warm up the room, especially if we are talking about the cold season.
The construction of internal walls from the same material from which the external ones were erected is possible, but there is simply no need, which is explained by several reasons:
- There is no exposure to atmospheric phenomena inside the room, so equally thick and durable partitions are of no use here.
- If you use a material of a smaller cross-section here, this can lead to problems at the joints.
Experts most often advise equipping internal walls using frame technology, since making a partition in a bathhouse using the frame principle is quite simple, and also economically profitable.
Frame walls have the following advantages over a traditional log house:
- Price.
- Less weight, and therefore less load on the foundation, which extends the durability of the structure.
- Ease of operation.
At the same time, you get warm and durable interior partitions.
We build a bath wall using frame technology
Let's look at how to make a partition in a wooden bathhouse.
There are simple instructions for this:
- For interior walls, we select boards about 5 cm thick and no more than 15 cm wide. Thinner boards may fail.
- We form a sheathing from the boards with a step equal to the width of the heat-insulating mat.
- We lay a heat insulator between the boards. Best to use for this mineral wool, since polystyrene foam is flammable and capable of releasing harmful substances at elevated temperatures.
- We stuff a waterproofing material on top of the plank frame.
The following materials can be used as waterproofing:
- Regular polyethylene film. A material with a thickness of 150 to 20 microns is taken.
- A special waterproofing material that has a foil side.
- Penofol, which is a type of foam on which foil is applied on one side. This way you create an additional layer of waterproofing.
Advice!
Mineral wool is afraid of water, so it is necessary to reliably protect it with a waterproofing layer.
The strips are laid overlapping, taped with construction tape.
- The finishing material is installed as the last layer. Most often this is lining, which most closely matches the interior and microclimate of bathhouses.
- The stove should be installed no closer than a meter from the partitions.
Advice!
If a metal stove is used in the bathhouse, you will need a brick partition, preferably even one made of fireclay blocks.
If the metal stove will be heated directly in the steam room, then the wall can be wooden, but it should be sheathed with non-flammable materials.
Partition in a block bath
How to make partitions in a brick bath? Here experts also recommend using the same frame technology.
There are several reasons for this:
- Brick walls heat up more slowly, and accordingly, you will need additional expenses for heating, especially in winter.
- Condensation will settle on the brick or blockwork and will need to be drained somewhere.
Some professionals advise using magnesite sheets instead of boards.
They are made on the basis of perlite and cellulose fibers. They are fixed on vertical profiles, after which the installation described above is repeated.
Advice!
Such partitions can be constructed without insulation.
Here the insulating function will be performed by the air space between the boards.
It is best to use lining as a finishing for such walls.
Naturally, in brick bath you can create a partition from brick. In this case, it is best to use half-brick masonry, additionally strengthening the structure with steel wire every few rows.
Advice!
Erect a brick partition in wooden house it is possible only when the final shrinkage of the log house occurs.
Conclusion
Construction of a bathhouse is a very responsible process that requires a plan and must take into account a number of nuances. And since there are at least two rooms in the bathhouse, the question proper arrangement partitions is very relevant. The information presented above will help you build an internal wall without making mistakes, and the video in this article will offer you to see visual aspects of this problem.
A bathhouse is a fire-hazardous structure with high humidity, so when constructing it, many nuances must be taken into account. During the construction process, it is important to observe accepted standards and standards for installation of functional elements of the structure. A wooden, brick or foam block partition of a sauna stove performs important role- it separates rooms of different functionality and ensures the safety of those in the steam room. The choice of design and material depends on many factors, including specific construction conditions.
Arrangement of a bathhouse and the purpose of partitions
Back in the days Ancient Rus' It was customary to regularly take a steam bath in a Russian bath. The procedures lifted the tone, gave strength, gave a charge of energy and vigor. In modern times, every owner country house concerned about the issue of health improvement and disease prevention, for which many owners decide to build a steam room.
When buying a stove for a bath, you need to not only think about the ratio of the device’s power to the area of the room. It is equally important to choose the optimal location for its installation. The heating device can be positioned in the following ways:
- In the center of the bathhouse. This best option quickly and evenly heat a large room.
- Near load-bearing wall buildings. This location of the stove or heater is often used in practice, as it allows for efficient heating of the steam room.
- Near the partition. It can separate the stove from the steam room or be placed between the steam room and the dressing room. It is necessary to pay special attention to the waterproofing and finishing of the partition.
The last 2 types of installing a partition in a bathhouse are more common, as they allow you to heat directly from the dressing room and place the heater in the steam room. The internal walls of the building must be erected, taking into account the style of interior design and the location of the load-bearing walls.
An important criterion for choosing the material from which the partition will be made are the characteristics of the room - area, number of rooms, and others. The main role in shaping the performance characteristics of the bathhouse is played by the material that was used in the construction process of the bathhouse. The internal walls of the building can be made of the following materials:
- wood;
- drywall;
- concrete;
- brick.
Helpful information! The process of installing a partition in a bathhouse or sauna has many features. For example, a partition near a stove is often made of concrete or brick. The steam room is usually separated from the relaxation room by a wooden wall.
If the steam room uses a metal stove, which is heated from the dressing room, then the best option is to install a brick partition, and it is better to build it from fireclay blocks. If the stove will be heated in a steam room, then the wall can be made of wood, but in this case it must be covered with non-flammable material.
Stove partition for a bath: types and features
Depending on the material from which the structure is built, the partition can be made of brick, timber, boards or foam blocks. If the building is made of a frame or log house, it is better to use wood, but for arranging a brick bathhouse, brick is optimal. Let's consider which do-it-yourself sauna stove partition is most optimal and safe to use.
Even small sauna is divided into 2 rooms for different purposes: a dressing room and a steam room, which is usually combined with a shower room. When arranging a bath room, it is important to consider the type heating device, which is installed in the steam room:
- If there is an iron stove in the bathhouse, then it is better to install a partition frame structure or from boards. To ensure fire safety, it must be more than 10 cm from the stove.
- If it is a traditional brick oven, it is considered a partition itself. In this case, it is enough to report it by building walls.
Helpful advice! For installation brick partition Experts recommend using red brick rather than silicate brick. This reliable and durable building material is characterized by high moisture resistance and thermal insulation.
Partitions in a wooden bath
Wooden steam rooms include the following designs:
- Bathhouse made of rounded logs.
- Frame-panel structure.
- Construction from profiled logs.
In a log bathhouse, you can design a partition that is unique in design and easy to use. For this purpose, the technology of constructing a 5-wall log house is used. This method of arranging a bath should be performed professional specialists and requires significant costs.
Helpful advice! If you are going to heat the bathhouse irregularly, experts do not recommend doing so wooden buildings internal partitions made of brick. By wood and brick different thermal conductivity, in the cold season it will take a lot of time to heat up brick wall indoors.
If desired, you can build partitions between the steam room and the sink from the same material used to decorate the external walls building. The walls inside the room do not need to be protected from the influence of atmospheric phenomena; moreover, if you use a similar material of a smaller cross-section, then problems will arise at the point of their connection. Therefore, partitions inside a bathhouse are often created using frame technology. A reliable frame partition in a brick bath can be built using boards, beams and insulation. Stages of work:
- For the interior walls you need to find and select boards certain size. They should be 3-5 cm thick and approximately 10-15 cm long.
- At the first stage, the boards are stuffed onto a pre-assembled strong frame made of beams, laying a layer of insulation between them. It must be covered with waterproofing.
- If foil is used in the steam room, then it must be attached to the inner wall.
- On last stage The sheathing is installed along the partition made of boards and the structure is covered with clapboard.
If you plan to install a metal stove in the bathhouse, which will be heated from the dressing room, then the best option is a partition made of refractory fireclay bricks. It is often done with 2-3 bricks on each side of the metal stove. According to safety requirements, the height of the partition should be up to the chimney exit from the room or to the ceiling.
If the stove will be heated in a steam room, then you can make a wooden partition. In this case, it must be sheathed with non-flammable building materials, and the stove must be installed at a distance of more than 1 m from the structure.
Partitions in block baths
Some owners country houses They build baths from foam blocks - an environmentally friendly cellular material made from cement, sand and water and sand. What should be the partition of a sauna stove if the structure is built of blocks? Condensation will constantly settle on the brick and stone walls, which must be drained. Therefore, experts recommend using frame technology, due to which the room will heat up faster.
Professionals advise using instead regular board magnesite sheets, which are also suitable for creating partitions in a bathhouse made of timber. Magnesite panels are made from cellulose fibers and perlite. These are non-flammable building materials that tolerate high humidity. In terms of strength, durability and moisture resistance, magnesite is better than OSB boards. Rooms decorated with soapstone magnesite look especially aesthetically pleasing.
Magnesite panels are mounted on both sides on vertical profiles, and between them they lay insulation, which must be protected with a waterproofing layer. As finishing sheets, you can use any material, for example, lining. If the partitions are without insulation inside, then they are made in 2 boards, 30-50 mm thick. An air space is formed between them, which performs an important insulating function.
Helpful advice! If you decide to use brick, it is better to build a heating panel for the stove. In this case, the brick will not only heat up from the surrounding air, but will be able to transmit heat from the stove and transfer it to the bathhouse, effectively heating the room.
Professionals advise mounting brick partitions taking into account the following nuances:
- Scraps of reinforcement with a cross-section of 6.8 mm must be inserted into the main walls of the building, and the second end of the rod must fit into the seam of the brickwork.
- The width of the furnace partition should be at least half a brick, and every 2-3 rows of masonry must be additionally reinforced with steel wire.
- If you build a brick partition in an environmentally friendly wooden log house, this can be done when the structure settles. To take into account the ongoing shrinkage of the log house, it is necessary to connect the partition to the main walls through a board inserted into the groove.
Regardless of the partition in the bathhouse, it will be affected high humidity air, and this effect will be negative. You can increase the service life of a building by installing waterproofing materials. The waterproofing layer is laid before the installation process. finishing materials. Most often, kraft paper or foil is used for this.
After the partition in the sauna stove is installed, it is recommended to attach reflective material to it, directed towards the main room. In this way it is possible to concentrate in the building maximum amount thermal energy. Between finishing cladding partition and layer waterproofing material there should be a ventilation gap 15 cm thick.
Making your own steam room with a sauna stove partition with your own is an achievement that will allow you long years enjoy healthy bath procedures. In order for the stove installation to be carried out correctly and to exclude the possibility of a fire in the building, it is enough to follow simple rules and safety requirements. Then your steam room will become a favorite and safe resting place for your family members, relatives and friends.