Wooden floor in a private house. How to install wooden floors in a private home

Building a private house is a rather lengthy process that requires a certain amount of time and considerable effort. Many owners suburban areas want to save on construction costs by doing some of the work themselves. To figure out how to make wooden floors in a private home, you should take care of preparing the materials, as well as choosing the necessary tools.

Choosing a floor design

Before starting work, you should select the type of floor construction. Among the most common are the following varieties:

• single;
• double;
• concrete floor.

The choice of a specific design is based on the characteristics of the building in which the floor will be laid. The main factor influencing this decision is the nature of the use of the house. When choosing a single design, it is worth considering that it is only suitable for summer houses or cottages. The installation of such a floor in a house with year-round occupancy is unacceptable.

In this case, the boardwalk is simply laid on the logs. The thermal insulation of such a floor is very low. To construct such foundations, you do not need to prepare a lot of material. Work on installing a single floor is carried out quite quickly.

If you decide to build a permanent private house in which you can live at any time, you should start constructing a double floor. This design is more insulated than the single version. The main layers of such a floor are the rough and finishing coating. Between them are placed layers of hydro- and thermal insulation. Such a floor arrangement can protect the entire structure of the house from destruction.

Often the rough layer of double flooring in country house executed from unedged boards. The finishing is done from tongue and groove boards. All stages of work can be carried out independently. Thermal insulation is usually made of expanded clay.

Another option for creating a floor in a private house is a concrete base. Such structures are made by pouring a concrete screed. If you meet all the requirements when creating such a floor, it will turn out durable and strong. It can also be finished with any coating.

Laying a wooden floor

Wooden flooring is chosen quite often to create a covering in private homes. This is due to its environmental friendliness. Many people want to have high-quality coating made of wood. Such floors have a number of significant advantages.

When carefully treated, wood flooring can last for decades without changing its appearance or physical characteristics. In addition, wooden floors have high thermal insulation properties. They create comfort in the house. In addition, the installation of wooden flooring is done by hand. To work you will need to prepare standard set tools.

Before making a floor in a private house, you should take care of choosing the type of wood. It should be selected according to the type of structure. The floor is made of several layers. It must contain heat and waterproofing. The underground plays a role air gap. At her expense wooden elements will not be exposed to moisture. They will not develop mold or mildew.

The floor covering is constantly subject to mechanical stress during operation. That is why the wood that will be chosen for the floor must have good technical characteristics. Before installing the covering, the boards should be dried. The humidity of wooden elements should not exceed 12%.

It is also worth visually inspecting the elements of the future floor. There should be no chips or cracks on them. Otherwise, this may affect the quality of the coating. Also, before installation, wooden elements are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will extend the service life of such products.

Installation of a wooden floor is carried out in the following sequence:

• First you need to determine where to install the supports. In place of the removed one fertile soil gravel should be added. Sand is poured on top. This is how the pillow is made. Each layer should be compacted thoroughly. The ends of the support pillars are wrapped waterproofing material. Typically, roofing felt is used for this purpose.
• After this, the beams should be laid. And they are attached to the supports using corners and screws. Floors in a country house should be carefully insulated. Professional builders recommend laying plywood sheets before installing insulation. Mineral wool is usually used as insulation material.
• When the insulation layer has been laid, the rough flooring can begin. The boards should be selected so that they fit tightly together. Self-tapping screws are used to connect them to the beams. About 1.5 cm is left between the subfloor and the walls. Such gaps make it possible to eliminate distortions in the structure due to thermal expansion.
• A vapor barrier is laid on top of the subfloor. It is usually 200 microns thick. The joints of the canvas are taped with construction tape. The edges of the vapor barrier are placed on the walls to a height of 20 cm. After laying the film, you should begin laying the finishing coating.

For the finished floor, solid wood boards are used. Sheets of plywood can also be used. They are much easier to attach. However, their appearance leaves much to be desired. For this reason, it is better to choose tongue and groove boards. Plywood can be covered in different ways decorative finishing. Floorboards are usually varnished. This allows you to protect the coating from various influences. Also, through the use of varnish, you can emphasize the aesthetic properties of a wooden floor. You can build a heated floor with your own hands if you construct a concrete screed.

Concrete floor

Creating a concrete base requires some preparation. First, the site on which it is planned to create the floor must be cleared of debris. You also need to remove upper layer soil. The earth must be compacted. Gravel is poured on top. The concrete floor structure should be insulated. The gravel layer is covered with sand. Once it is compacted, you can lay down plastic film. It will become a reliable waterproofing.

Then the work is carried out according to standard scheme. Reinforcement bars are placed on the waterproofing layer and concrete solution is poured. Concrete screed in this case, it is carried out similarly to that which is equipped in the apartment. To make the floor level, you need to set the beacons. As soon as the concrete dries, they should be removed. The solution is leveled using the rule. The work is done from the wall towards the doorway.

In the process of pouring concrete mortar, it is better to do the work according to certain rules. For example, the mixture must be fresh. Also, in the process of its preparation, cement of a certain brand is used. It must be no lower than M300. In addition, water and sand sifting are added to the solution. Plasticizers increase the strength of concrete.

If the screed is more than 5 cm, reinforcement should be laid. For this purpose, a ready-made mesh is usually purchased. She is laid on waterproofing film. When creating a heated floor system in a country house, the use of plasticizers and reinforcement is mandatory.

As soon as the concrete gains strength, you can pull out the beacons and fill the resulting voids concrete mortar. It takes about a month for concrete to completely harden. A warm floor in a private house will require the installation of heating elements either during the screed or after its construction.

Drying the floor follows certain rules. The base should be covered with plastic film. The concrete must be wetted within three days. If the screed has a heated floor system, it is prohibited to turn it on until the solution has completely hardened. Otherwise, the floor will crack.

Finishing

Laying the topcoat is quite simple. Decorative elements are installed independently. Choice finishing depends on the tastes of the owner of the house. It is also worth considering the characteristics of the floor.

There are several options. The most common of them is boardwalk. In this case, the finished floor does not need to be additionally covered. When choosing this option, you get a rather beautiful and practical coating. In addition, floor boards will last for decades correct processing. They are usually impregnated special compounds and coated with varnish. This allows you to protect the floor from dirt and various chemicals.

Concrete flooring in a country house is usually done taking into account the installation of the finishing coating. Parquet is usually chosen for its finishing. However, such a floor will be quite expensive. It is characterized by high environmental friendliness and an excellent degree of thermal insulation. Perform parquet flooring in country house inappropriate, because permanent residence is not planned in it. However, for a permanent structure such a coating will be optimal.

Other flooring materials include carpet, laminate, tile and linoleum. Laminate flooring is installed in the living room and bedrooms. Linoleum is only suitable for flooring in the hallway and kitchen. Tiles are also used to cover the floors in the kitchen and hallway. Carpet should also be used for the bedroom.

The variety of modern colors and flooring materials allows you to choose the most optimal covering option for yourself. Floors with different patterns look very beautiful. Natural stone and wood look impressive.

conclusions

To understand what types flooring are more suitable for a private home, you should know the operating features of the building. For example, for a country house there is no need to arrange the floor in several layers. It also does not need to be insulated. Such buildings are used only in the warm season. Also, flooring in a private house is usually done using wood. This material has a low price and is also easy and quick to install.

For permanent buildings it will be necessary to equip more complex design. Wooden floors must have several layers, including hydro- and thermal insulation. Before installing such a floor, you must carefully prepare. You will also have to pick up quality materials. Before deciding what type of flooring to install in a private home, you should familiarize yourself with the features of each type of floor.

The concrete foundation is being built in stages. It is chosen only when it is necessary to create a reliable and durable floor.

The installation of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time and will need to be replaced. Using some impregnations, you can protect the wood from rotting. Chemical methods of protection are very effective and prevent the process of material deterioration. However wooden structure, impregnated with chemicals, cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that wood is chosen precisely because of this indicator, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between layers. fasten wood covering should be used using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

A subfloor refers to certain bases that form an ideal surface for laying a finished floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed at the floor covering.

In wooden buildings, subfloors are made using three methods:

• wooden on joists;
• pouring concrete;
• use of plywood flooring.

Wooden floors on joists

IN wooden house the installation of a subfloor is no different from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only peculiarity is how the logs are attached:

1. There is no need to attach logs to various wooden boards. Best option- strengthen them to the base or foundation grillage, retreating a couple of centimeters from all walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11cm on all sides of the log.
2. Before laying the base, you should lay the bottom trim, which is made from a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. There is no need to rigidly strengthen them with strapping. You just need to fix them so that they do not wobble while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a distance of several centimeters from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before this, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. You must first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut out the dimensions required for the groove in the wood, which will be required for the supporting function.

Important: It is recommended to add about 2 cm to further expand the joists. It must be remembered that the laying of the logs and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the installation of the waterproofing layer is completed.

The standard steps between two logs are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, a choice is made of the lag section and the effective load. For small sizes, the sections should be approximately 15x10, for heavy loads - 15x20, for medium loads - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load, if the beams have a small cross-section, then it is advisable to provide cross-sectional parameters of 30x40cm.

Installation of subfloors on joists

When the installation is done, you will need to do standard installation. It is performed in several stages:

1. It is necessary to secure the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the joists from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial block with boards that are wider than the joists. They will need to be nailed either along or below the joists.
2. The boards should be laid. They need to be placed on the cranial block, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
3. Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it extends onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation and use a stapler for fastening.
4. Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
5. Vapor barrier. They are laid in the same way as waterproofing.
6. Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, you only need to punch counter-battens along the joist on top of the vapor barrier.
7. Coating. At the final stage it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. The logs must be separated from the wall by a 2cm gap. Insulation will then be placed in them.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Video description

Learn more about floor insulation in a wooden house in this video:

Plywood subfloors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has high hardness. Plywood is also used for flooring. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

1. On a cement base. You will need to provide a horizontal and level base or use leveling posts.
2. Attach to joists. The main thing is to position the logs correctly to ensure that the joint of the sheet falls on them. The joists must be positioned so that the top surface provides a straight line. The insulation and sound insulation are then removed from them.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it must be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers - minimum thickness must be at least 9mm.

Before final installation begins, all debris and dust should be removed from the base. If possible, you should also do priming - primer treatment. The plywood must be secured with glue, and the head of the screw must be recessed.

Concrete floor

Like a rough and finishing floor in a wooden house, concrete option occurs less frequently than others. A concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved using thermal insulation material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is smoother and more durable. Concrete floors in a wooden house are also chosen because they are better protected from destruction.

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

1. Lay along the joists.
2. Lay on the ground.
3. A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
4. The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
5. Colas less than 11 cm should be driven into the ground so that gravel can be poured over them. After this, it should be compacted and the pegs removed.
6. Next, sand is poured.
7. Then they lay large film made of polyethylene, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
8. Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equal to the height of the cord. Next, concrete is poured onto the prepared surface.
9. Concrete is leveled along the slats.
10. Next, the concrete should be covered with film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is necessary to occasionally spray the mass with water.
11. After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing logs

Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect the logs. Therefore, when installing floors in a wooden house, they should be protected from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

A preparation with a bioprotective composition protects wood from mold, rot, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such products will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

• environmental friendliness;
• slight odor;
• no allergens.

The preparations must be applied before the installation of the floor in a wooden house begins.

Leave-in antiseptic

Great option if in the city high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high levels of precipitation, temperature changes, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time-consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 layers. After the work is completed, the color of the wood will become pistachio.

Traditional methods

Folk remedies for treating lags:

1. Transformer oil. Thanks to deep penetration into wood structure and embalming this remedy perfectly protects the material.
2. Resin. Birch resin will help against beetles, fungi and rotting. Its only drawback is its vulnerability to fire.
3. Motor oil. Pros - low price, good protection. Cons – the smell is too strong, sometimes it interferes for several months.

Before starting work, you should understand the device diagram wooden floors, which consist of 4 “layers”:

1. Rough coating.
2. Thermal and waterproofing layers.
3. Finish floor.
4. Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finished floor from in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 steps mentioned above and start working on the finished floor.

To make a finished floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is erected in 3 stages:

1. The logs are laid so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
2. The board needs to be secured closer to the wall.
3. Next, you should use a hammer and a block so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. Using a self-tapping screw, each joist is fastened through a ridge.

Important! If you plan to change the floor in the future, you need to use a simple fastening option - all floorboards should be secured from above to the joists using self-tapping screws.

Conclusion

Wooden floors allow you to retain heat in your home using minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors throughout their entire life centuries-old history remained and remain the most widespread and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coatings.

Floors made from high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics for centuries, are relatively inexpensive, universal (they can be installed on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for installing floors of a different type. In addition, wooden floors are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment with just one person.

General principles of wood flooring

Directly genital boards are always laid on joists, but the logs themselves can be laid either on a concrete or even earthen base, or on supports - usually brick, wooden or metal pillars. Rarely, but still used is a technology in which the ends of the joists are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case, it is very difficult to cover wide spans - logs of a very large cross-section and weight are required, and it is almost impossible to install them correctly alone...

Installation of wooden floors concrete base practically no different from installing floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. The situation is much more complicated with installation of flooring on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high groundwater.

A few words about the instrument

The chosen method of installing the floor determines what tools you will need for the job. But in any case, you can’t do without:

• laser level; as a last resort, you can use a hydraulic level, but you will need an assistant to work with it;
• a regular or cross construction bubble level with a length of at least 1 meter; a cross level is preferable, as it allows you to align the plane simultaneously in two directions;
• a hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
• chain saw or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
• jointer and/or grinder.

The usual carpenter's tools - a square, a small axe, a plane, a chisel, a nail puller - will also not be superfluous.

Floor installation on support pillars

Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following “layers” (from bottom to top):

• the basis of the entire flooring is logs;
• rough (“bottom”) floor;
• waterproofing layer;
• thermal insulation layer;
• directly wooden floor (finish flooring);
• finishing floor covering.

This entire multi-layer “sandwich” is usually supported by supporting pillars - concrete, brick, wood or metal.

Installation of brick pillars

The best choice today is brick pillars, which have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require special labor costs during construction. The only limitation is the height of such support pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is larger, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, their cross-section will have to be increased, which will lead to a sharp increase required quantity bricks and, accordingly, an increase in material costs for construction. For columns with a height of up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is sufficient; for a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the section is made of at least 1.5x1.5 bricks; for columns up to 1.5 m high, at least 2x2 bricks are laid out.

Anyway under brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete “nickels”, the area of ​​which exceeds the cross-sectional area of ​​the columns by at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the sites is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the logs and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN logs with a section of 100...150x150 mm. After marking, holes about half a meter deep are dug in the places where the pillars are erected; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel “pillow” is made, onto which it is poured concrete mixture. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting “penny” be several centimeters above ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the support pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE of the LAYOUT plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, between opposite walls The construction cord is stretched along this level, and the height of the pillars is adjusted according to its level. It is not at all necessary to extend it strictly to the millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be taken into account that at least its upper plane must be higher than the level of the building’s basement - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid “cold bridges”.

Some features of support pillars

It is worth providing in them availability of fastenings for joist beams. Typically, vertical “studs” with threads or anchor bolts embedded 10-20 cm deep are used as such fasteners; these are then drilled into the logs in appropriate places through holes, with which the beams are “put on” the resulting pins, and are attracted by nuts and washers. The protruding excess threads are cut off with a grinder.

The side surfaces of the columns and, especially, their upper plane, on which the logs will be laid, preferably cover with a layer of durable plaster– it will further strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. Lay on the surface of the finished columns 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing felt.

After complete drying and hardening masonry mortar(this takes about a week) you can now lay logs on the finished support pillars.

Laying logs on brick columns

The length of the joists is selected depending on the floor design. When laying on support pillars, there are only two options for such structures - “floating” and rigid.

Floating or hard floors?

In the first case, the entire “sandwich” of the floor lies and is supported solely by posts, without being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the joists are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; This design practically eliminates the “walking” of the flooring, but when the building settles, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.

With a “floating” floor option, the length of the lag is 3-5 cm less distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise it will be difficult to firmly attach the logs to the walls. If necessary, logs can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them into “half-legs” - but the joint must be on the support post and be nailed or (for lag cross-sections up to 10x100 mm) screwed with self-tapping screws.

If the final length of the logs is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting about the waterproofing gaskets made of roofing felt!); however, it is much better to place flat pieces of board 25-50 mm thick between the roofing felt and the lower plane of the joist beam. In the case of joint joists, this must be done!

Alignment of logs

After laying the logs on the prepared support pillars, they must be “aligned” according to the level. This is done as follows: using wooden spacers small thickness the two outer beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to a pre-calculated and marked height level. Spacers are currently used only on the outer support pillars; for now, you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; In the case of “floating” floors, this fastening will be temporary.

On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, along the upper planes of tightly laid joists The construction cord is stretched. All other intermediate beams are derived from it; then, if necessary, spacers are installed between the remaining posts and joists. ALL gaskets must be RIGIDLY tied (nailed) to the joists, and, if possible, to support posts. The beams must lie tightly on the pillars; in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent pillars.

Subfloor

After laying the joists, a subfloor is made. To do this, a narrow beam (“skull” beam) is nailed along the entire length of the lower cut of the log on each side. Untreated boards with a length equal to the distance between the logs are laid on it between the lags. After laying, these boards are completely covered with a vapor barrier film, onto which insulation is applied or poured. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof fabric.

Underfloor ventilation

When installing the floor on brick pillars in the underground space ventilation must be provided– forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. A mandatory element of such ventilation is the so-called "produkhi": through holes in or walls located below floor level. Such openings must be located around the entire perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). It must be possible to block the vents in winter time. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the ventilation openings are covered with a fine-mesh mesh.

When if the underground is not too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the installation of vents is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners. These holes are closing decorative grilles and should always be open.

How to lay floors correctly

Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof cloth. The choice of board depends on what exactly the surface of the finished floor will be. If it is intended to be natural, a tongue-and-groove floorboard (with a lock) will be required; if you are laying linoleum or laminate, you can get by with regular edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE, THE WOOD MUST BE WELL DRYED!

Attach the tongue and groove board to the joists

The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with the tenon to the wall. The next boards are pressed against the previous ones using some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - self-tapping screws in this case do not fit, they do not attract the board well to the upper surface of the joist. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained along the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

Final finishing of the laid floor

After laying the floorboards, the floor is ready for finishing, consisting in its grinding (scraping) and coating with paint or varnish. It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use an electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, it is recommended that all “opened” Treat cracks and crevices between boards with wood putty, made on the basis of drying oil. The last operation before painting is to attach the baseboard around the perimeter of the room.

The sanded surface is painted or coated with varnish, for example, yacht varnish; Modern paints and varnishes make it possible to imitate almost any type of wood or material surface. Usually at least two layers of coating are applied; a paint roller and a good respirator are used for the job. If you want to get a matte rather than glossy floor surface, you can use wax or oil.

To build a private house, you have to work hard, and all the processes performed require significant costs.

In an effort to save money, some do some of the work themselves, so the question arises: how to make a floor in a private house without calling in construction crews for help?

Anyone who has all the resources can do this kind of work. necessary materials, suitable tools and specific knowledge.

Types of floors

Diagram of a single and double plank floor

Before starting work, you should decide what design the main coating will have.

Among the most popular types it is necessary to highlight following types floors:

• single;
• double;
• concrete.

The choice of each of them is determined design features buildings in which future installation is planned, and the conditions of further operation.

Features of flooring

Single floors are recommended only for summer cottages

A single floor is, as a rule, a fairly simple design that does not require spending a lot of materials and time. The floorboard is fixed directly to the joists using nails.

The disadvantage of this plank floor is its limited use. This coating It is most often used only in the country, or in small houses and fully performs only the functions of holding the weight of all objects and people located indoors, combined with moderate cheapness.

In the room where it is planned year-round accommodation, such designs are used less and less.

Double floors consist of a finishing and rough screed and are thermally insulated

A double floor is a structure suitable for installation in a room where people will stay all year round. What should the floor be made of so that it is warm even when it’s cold outside?

This design consists of two layers: rough and finishing screed. Between them are laid waterproofing and thermal insulation materials. They perfectly protect not only the floor from destruction, but also the entire house from blowing and dampness.

Floor arrangement diagram

The rough coating is made from unedged boards, and the finishing coating is made from tongue-and-groove boards. All the processes required to build a floor in a private house can be done with your own hands.

The concrete floor is a regular poured screed. To carry it out, preparatory work is first carried out to dismantle the old coating and place the guides, then a waterproofing layer is laid and a solution is prepared with which the prepared area is filled.

So that the floor is of high quality and ready for further finishing works, he should be given the necessary time to set.

Concrete consumption table for poured floor.

Installation of a single floor made of wood

The instructions presented below will help you understand the question of how to properly install a floor in a private house, while observing the order of all actions.

1. The installation of a single floor will be carried out on poles, which, as a rule, are mounted during the construction of the main structure. At the same time, the interval between the pillars should be maintained at 80 cm. Subsequently, beams 10 cm thick are laid on each of the supports.
2. On top of this structure we lay a grid of logs, which should have a cross-section of 5x5 cm. If the board prepared for the ceiling has a cross-section of 3 cm, then the distance between the logs should be maintained at 50 cm. Place the system below the level using special wedges and firmly fix it with nails.
3. A rough floor made of unedged boards is laid on this structure with your own hands, and a floor covering, usually linoleum or laminate, is laid on top of this layer.

For such floors, thermal insulation does not play a big role, since they are constructed for temporary or ancillary buildings.

However, when placed in residential buildings Before laying the subfloor, the space between the joists should be filled with sheets of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Positive properties are low cost and speed of construction.

Double wood floor

The structure of this design is somewhat more complicated. It includes, along with a rough screed, layers of steam, heat and water protection with a tier located on top finishing coating. Last layer, as a rule, is made from tongue-and-groove boards.

How to build a floor that will keep you cool in summer and provide a pleasant microclimate in winter? Read more about correct device watch the floor in this video:

You can do all the processes yourself if you follow the step-by-step instructions:

When placing the boards, it should be taken into account that there should be an air pocket of at least 2-3 cm between the vapor barrier and the layer of finishing boards.

For good ventilation, special through holes should be made in the air pocket, which must be covered with decorative sheathing.

Concrete floor

Initially, markings are made to make such a coating. To do this, you should use a laser level, which will accurately help you set the marks along which the threads will subsequently be pulled.

Calculation and tools

Concrete floor installation

To carry out all processes, you must have:

• vibrating rammer;
• roofing felt;
• fine expanded clay;
• durable polyethylene film;
• foam boards;
• reinforced mesh;
• spirit or laser level;
• slats.

Only by making a durable, perfectly level concrete floor can you hope for high-quality arrangement floor covering.

Concrete floor installation

Before making floors in a private house, you need to read the instructions, which will help you carry out all the processes in strict accordance with the rules and regulations:

1. Initially, the base of the surface on which the concrete floor will be made is prepared. For this, a rough foundation is prepared, which can be made from layers of broken brick or crushed stone using M100 concrete.
2. The next stage involves installing a waterproofing layer. It is very practical in this case to use roofing material.
3. After this, you need to take care of thermal insulation. You can use expanded clay or foam boards for this purpose. IN middle lane It is advisable to place both of these layers at the same time, starting with the foam.
4. On top of the laid layers, it is best to place a small wooden sheathing followed by laying the chain-link mesh.
5. On top of the erected frame, starting from the corner farthest from the entrance, a smooth pouring of concrete begins with simultaneous leveling according to the rule along the marked beacon lines. Filling is carried out in one go.
6. The final stage is leveling the top layer with liquid cement mortar or a special self-leveling compound. To learn how to properly fill a subfloor, watch this video:

To successfully complete floor pouring tasks, you should follow the attached instructions and purchase high-quality consumables and accessories.

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result independently or with the assistance of professional builders. Information about the features of flooring in a wooden house is important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required for self-execution work, and secondly, to control employees.

Process Features

Floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And to ensure comfortable conditions residence, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor “pie”.

The main element building structure for the floor is the strapping. For permanent buildings, it is usually made of powerful timber with cross-sectional parameters of at least 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced with several boards securely connected to each other. Plank strapping is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses that the timber experiences.

Products used for strapping must be pre-treated antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oiled wooden parts do not rot and do not absorb moisture, so they serve long years. If there is no oil, use special means, available in every hardware store.

To extend the service life of the harness, you need to lay waterproofing on the foundation. Usually this is roofing material folded in two layers.

The strapping requires installation of logs. These are wide, powerful boards that need to be strengthened on the edge. They, just like the harness, need to be treated with an antiseptic. The joists must first be carefully inspected and cracks, if any, must be repaired. It is better to replace boards with major flaws with better ones.

In light buildings it is allowed to make prefabricated logs. For fastening components use special staples or pins. The docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. To do this, the cross-section of the lags is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, on which a membrane is laid, preventing the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. Insulation is placed in the resulting cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the home owners. Any type of floor can be used as a finished floor. available options, including water heated floors.

Structure of the structure

It’s not enough to build a wooden house, you need to build it correctly engineering Communication, such as:

• heating;
• water supply;
• sewerage;
• electrical wiring.

The abundance of engineering structures in the premises does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the joists allows you to cover most of the pipes. If you have a crawl space or basement floor, you can install electric water heater, or you can equip a gas boiler room. The location of the water heater under the floor is especially important for a small shower.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect it from moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both when equipping the first floor and the second. It fits under mineral insulation and above him. Non-woven material is produced in narrow rolls. When laying, individual parts should be overlapped and glued with special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the joists, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps OSB plates are best suited for this purpose.

OSB boards widely used in housing construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good as a base for wood flooring, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. And here's the finish line OSB coating It's not worth doing.

For laying on joists installed in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent logs is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards made by pressing using a special adhesive composition. They are durable, do not rot or dry out. Floors laid on OSB sheets do not creak when walked on.

Installation is done quickly because:

• does not require special skills;
• sheets have correct geometric shape, and no time is wasted on adjustment;
• one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of ​​3.1 m2.

Types of floors

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of covering. There are two options: concrete ( reinforced concrete slab) or wooden. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house you can equip any of modern options flooring: laminate, parquet, cork, tile and others.

Concrete floors are formed by pouring screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, which takes much longer.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce the cost of finishing floors. A high-quality screed can serve as the basis for finishing without additional layers or leveling the surface.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

There is a high risk of cracking in a new home. cement screed due to shrinkage of the structure. There will be no serious damage, but heat loss is possible. Prevent Negative consequences possible by installing reliable insulation.

Concrete flooring is possible after calculations have been carried out. As a rule, such a decision is made if the capital structure has a strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor . Wood is environmentally friendly and does not cause allergic reactions in residents: adults and children. Natural materials are increasingly being used by owners country houses, preferring it to brick and various blocks.

It is easy to cover a plank floor with boards on both sides. Secure fastening allows you to equip a “pie” of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made in the form of a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

Regardless of whether on the foundation, the ground, screw piles or a structure is simply being erected on brick pillars, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First, prepare the walls by installing ventilation holes in them. Lack of air access to the underground will lead to rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the ceiling must be correctly calculated. A wood supply of 10-15 percent would also be useful.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with anti-rot and fungal agents.

Rough double-layer floors are made where the base is laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay a floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to the minimum, you can compact the earth, lay out a bed of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for the garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

IN light country house In a house used for seasonal stays, the flooring needs to be done differently. First you need to set brick pillars around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a uniform height (to the same horizon). Each support must be covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing felt. A wooden lining 3 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic, should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This entire structure is closed by beams, along which logs are placed with constant horizontal adjustments. The structure is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the joists if the production is carried out with a single flooring.

A double floor requires the installation of insulation, hydro- and vapor barriers, and, if necessary, other components between the rough and finished floors.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will acquire a presentable appearance, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room holistic.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

• material opportunities;
• purpose of the premises;
• planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, they choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. Exotic trees, growing in tropical forests, have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, and are resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards made from such trees have beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. Floor purple can be done if you use rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when you buy very expensive zebrawood wood.

They won't require high expenses boards from coniferous species trees, including pine and spruce. From such floors the room is filled with substances beneficial to humans and a pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and linden boards are required. They do not emit resin and are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be selected taking into account the distance between adjacent joists. At a distance of 600 – 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, preference should be given to boards with a thickness of 50 mm. As for the width, it is set by the design project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to install the floors yourself, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process can affect the quality of the wood flooring. For this reason, it is better to take boards that are not wide and not too long.

One way to install a floor is to lay it staggered; in this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as a base, parquet boards glued with mastic or glue and additionally secured with self-tapping screws, as in the case of massive board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight form of installation, a diagonal one is used. Laying at an angle of 45° to the wall looks especially elegant in a spacious room.

Arrangement of the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that self-installation is possible without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, by showing persistence, observing step by step guide, you can do without outside help and save significant money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn-out finishing coating is removed, the condition of the underlay is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During overhaul Wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation, are replaced on floors.

If the logs are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, from lubricated parquet glue plywood.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finishing coating is done with sheet building material(Fibreboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. The fastening points must be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a pitch of about 150 mm. The screw caps should be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting depressions should be filled with putty. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will be damaged. negative impact. And after some time, traces of poorly performed work will appear on it.

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