A cheap and practical way to insulate a metal garage. How to insulate a metal garage: methods and recommendations

1. No. 1. Styrofoam
2. No. 2. Mineral wool
3. No. 3. "Warm" plaster
4. No. 4. Thermal insulation paint
5. No. 5. Reflective Thermal Insulation

Our climate is different in that for 4-6 months low temperatures reign, which is not only not very comfortable for humans, but is also harmful to cars, our faithful assistants in the matter of movement. Frost and precipitation in winter can seriously damage a car, and many people try to leave the car in the garage as often as possible, thereby protecting it from negative impacts. But if the garage is not insulated, then the “iron horse” there will not be completely protected from the external environment, because thin walls almost do not prevent the penetration of cold masses into the room. To ensure your car remains safe in any weather, you need to take care of insulating your garage in advance.

It’s immediately worth noting that overdoing it with insulation and creating in the garage room temperature, is also unnecessary, unless, of course, you plan not to go outside during the winter.

Otherwise, a strong temperature contrast can have an extremely negative effect on the car body, causing the onset of corrosion. Also, do not forget about ventilation so that excess moisture goes outside along with harmful gases.

The requirements for thermal insulation of a garage are not as strict as for the insulation of residential premises. And if for the latter, insulation from the inside is extremely undesirable, then in the case of a garage it is no less effective and often becomes the only possible option. So, if the structure is located close to others, then it will not be possible to insulate it from the outside. Moreover, some types of garages require double insulation, for example, metal ones. The only drawback of insulation from the inside is that the area may be reduced, but to negate such “ by-effect» you need to select a heat insulator that will cope with its task when minimum thickness. So, what materials are suitable for insulating a garage from the inside?

No. 1. Styrofoam

Polystyrene foam is the most popular option in this sense; all work with it can be easily done independently, which is why it has enjoyed such success for several decades in a row. Advantages of this material weight.

If we add durability and low cost to all this, we get perfect material for insulation. True, and not without its shortcomings: foam plastic is a flammable material, so it is better to choose those products that are impregnated with fire retardant. Yes, and under the influence sun rays polystyrene foam can gradually turn yellow, but inside the garage a layer of such insulation will last a long time.

Styrofoam may be of several types, but the most popular when insulating garages is expanded polystyrene. Depending on the specifics of production, it can be pressed, non-pressed or extruded. Taking into account the ability of this material to burn, it is better to choose a material like PSB-S, which contains a fire retardant. Expanded polystyrene has good heat and sound insulation properties, it is easy to process, and is not susceptible to fungal infection. There is a myth that it is harmful to health because it supposedly contains residual styrene. There is some truth in this statement, but to protect yourself it is better to buy material from trusted manufacturers who follow manufacturing technology and supply safe products. Also note that decent results in insulation can be achieved if you install the insulation not only on the walls, but also on the gates and ceiling.
The second material in this group is penoizol, which is often called liquid foam. It is made at the same place where it will be used, and the resulting foam quickly hardens, filling all the cracks. This is one of the most reliable methods of insulation, which will create an excellent barrier to cold, because the thermal conductivity of this substance is quite low. Moreover, the material is durable, and manufacturers claim that it will serve faithfully for at least 40 years, although scientists put the figure at 100 years or more. The material does not support combustion, but this method of thermal insulation cannot be called the most budget-friendly, since it will require special equipment and, as a rule, the help of professionals. And the presence of dishonest manufacturers on the market, offering not the highest quality products, scares off many.

Another liquid insulation - polyurethane foam, which is applied to the walls in the form of foam, gradually hardens, forming a monolithic layer of thermal insulation. It does not weigh down the walls of the garage, since it mostly consists of air, adheres well to any surface, and does not take up the useful area of ​​the garage. The material does not support combustion, but can smolder when constantly exposed to very high temperatures. The only drawback is the need for special equipment and specialists for high-quality execution works

No. 2. Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a good insulation material that boasts a low thermal conductivity coefficient, breathability, safety for health, and non-flammability. Basalt wool, which is commonly called mineral wool in wide circles, has excellent sound absorption properties. For internal insulation, mats with a density of no more than 180 kg/m3 are used.

Flaws this type of insulation is also present. So, mineral wool is very afraid of moisture, so it needs to be protected with a layer of vapor barrier. Otherwise, moisture collected from the environment will cause a loss of thermal insulation properties. The cost of mineral wool is slightly higher than that of polystyrene foam, but still quite affordable. True, this method of insulation is suitable for those who have a fairly spacious garage, because for mineral wool it is necessary to build a frame, into the cells of which the thermal insulation itself is mounted in a thick layer (10 cm or more).

Separately, it is worth noting the insulation glassy- This is one of the varieties of mineral wool. Since it is made from molten glass waste or rocks saturated with silicon, the structure contains needle-like particles, which pose the main danger during operation. When insulating a garage with such material, all personal safety requirements must be strictly observed so that particles of the material do not get into the skin, eyes or respiratory organs. Glass wool is very afraid of water, and if it gets a little wet during installation, then the material can simply be thrown away, since everything thermal insulation properties already lost anyway. And although its price is much lower than stone wool, it is not very popular among those who want to insulate a garage from the inside, since its installation is complicated.

No. 3. "Warm" plaster

Warm plaster - relatively the new kind insulation that looks like ordinary plaster, But instead of sand, it contains materials with low thermal conductivity: vermiculite, polystyrene foam, sawdust, expanded clay, pumice etc.

mine has become popular plaster with polystyrene foam granules, since it has universal properties, can be used both inside and outside, and has the best thermal insulation performance. Sawdust-based plasters are also common, which also contain components such as paper, clay and sand. This composition is just suitable for internal insulation, but you should be prepared for the fact that such plaster takes a long time to dry, and to speed up the process you will need good ventilation. Vermiculite-based compounds can also be used to insulate a garage from the inside.

This option is different a lot of advantages. Thus, the walls do not need to be leveled or prepared in advance; “warm” plaster has excellent adhesion to wood, metal and stone, and it does not require the use of reinforcing mesh (except for some difficult cases).

In addition, it is very simple and easy to apply and can be done without outside help, completed in the shortest possible time. But despite all this, the material is clearly inferior to traditional insulation, and it is better to use it in combination with other thermal insulation materials. Applying a thick layer is not an option, since if its thickness is more than 5 cm, there is a risk that the plaster will begin to crack and peel under its own weight.

No. 4. Thermal insulation paint

Another modern material, which amazes not only with ease of use, but also with efficiency. Here are just a few striking examples: a layer of paint equal to 1 mm is equivalent to a layer of mineral wool of 50 mm, and a layer of paint applied according to the instructions is the same as a wall of 1.5 bricks. The unique properties of this insulation are based on features of the structure and principle of operation. All known to us thermal insulation materials work on the principle of a barrier, preventing heat from leaving the space. Thermal insulating paint becomes not only a barrier to the penetration of infrared rays outside, but also their reflector, making it much more difficult for heat to escape the confines of such a room. This effect was made possible due to the presence of a vacuum inside, which prevents the passage of infrared rays.

Advantages of thermal insulation paints The list could take a long time. They have excellent adhesion to most building materials, have good thermal insulation performance, are not afraid of moisture, are vapor permeable, and protect metal from corrosion. A layer of such insulation is very light in weight, so it does not weigh down the structure, and the application process itself is as simple as possible and is not much different from using conventional paints. The list of advantages is complemented by resistance to ultraviolet radiation, ease of restoration of damaged coating, resistance to high temperatures (the paint does not burn, but only chars at 260 0 C or decomposes at 800 0 C), environmental friendliness. But it cannot be noted that minus how pretty high price paints, her high consumption, and it cannot always be used as an independent insulation material, but nevertheless, this option is being used more and more often for insulating a garage.

No. 5. Reflective Thermal Insulation

Reflective insulation – the latest insulation, which is called today one of the most effective. Moreover, it is optimally suited for insulating a garage from the inside, as it is thin and does not take up much usable space. The material itself consists of a layer of heat insulator covered with a metallized film, and that is why this type of thermal insulation is called foil.

Can be used as an insulating layer different materials: polyethylene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool or basalt insulation. For internal thermal insulation garage as a base layer Polyethylene foam and mineral wool are optimal, and the insulation itself can be in the form of slabs or rolls. The base layer can have a thickness of 2-50 mm, and on top of it is applied aluminum foil Very thin layer by heat welding method. A metallized film made of polypropylene can also be used; it is possible that there is an additional layer of fiberglass. The foil layer can be either one-sided or double-sided.

How does it work? this type thermal insulation and why is it considered so effective? Thus, the foil reflects the bulk of the heat waves, preventing them from leaving the room. Those IR rays that did pass through the foil are already retained by a layer of insulation, reducing heat loss to a minimum. As a result, we obtain a material with a low thermal conductivity coefficient, good noise insulation, low weight, fire resistance and resistance to moisture. In addition, it is environmentally friendly and easy to install. Minuses, due to the short duration of use of the material, not everything is known yet, but such insulation is susceptible to corrosion.

remstroiblog.ru

Insulation of an unheated metal garage

Periodic freezing and thawing of the car leads to rapid wear of the car's iron parts. To prevent this, it is necessary to keep warmer and dryness. IN winter period the most acceptable conditions for keeping the machine is temperature plus 5 or higher.

However, in a metal garage it is almost impossible to achieve this without using a heater.

That is why such a house for a garage is a must insulate. If insulation is not carried out, then in winter the temperature inside the garage will be about minus 20.

When leaving the garage, you will have to warm up the engine for at least 5 minutes.

The presence of insulation will also help protect the interior from excessive overheating in the summer heat.

Since this is also unpleasant, because the car overheats, and staying in it until it is ventilated, impossible.

So, insulate The garage needs to be such that in winter the temperature does not fall below 4-5 degrees, and in summer it does not rise above 25-28.

Important points

How to insulate an iron garage from the inside?

1. The material covers everything surfaces garage, including floor.
2. When laying rolled or sheet materials Special attention worth paying attention to joints. To prevent cold from penetrating into the cracks, you need to overlap the sheets and connect them with aluminum tape.
3. Pay special attention to laying the material in corners and places joints garage designs.
4. Particular attention should be paid to the gates. It would be ideal to build a small door in them so as not to open the gate completely every time.
5. The insulating material must be installed close To metal parts garage, otherwise it will accumulate in the air gaps condensate. The resulting moisture will accelerate the corrosion processes, and the structure will become unusable in a very short time. This is why corrugated iron garages are recommended to be covered liquid insulation, tightly covering the metal.

Tools and materials

For insulation DIY iron garage requires the following tools:

• electric drill;
• building level;
• metal scissors;
• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• wood stapler.

For installation of insulation you will need the following materials:

• wooden slats or metal profile;
• staples;
• self-tapping screws;
• brushes or rollers for applying insulating paint.

Insulation methods

For insulation metal garage uses traditional and modern views materials. Their choice in each case depends on the availability of material resources and the specific climatic conditions in which the garage is located. Each of the selected options has its own dignity And flaws.

Classical

Is traditional and affordable. These include:

1. Mineral wool slabs. They have high thermal insulation rates, so they are often used in construction. However, this material has a significant drawback - it unstable to moisture. Therefore, it must be used together with a hydro- and vapor barrier layer.
2. Glass wool. Cheaper. Compared to the previous material, it has a lower cost. Its disadvantage, in addition to instability to moisture, is low fire safety. Glass wool– flammable material. Therefore, its use in a garage is not entirely appropriate.
3. Styrofoam. Waterproof, easy to install. Has high thermal insulation properties. In addition, polystyrene foam is resistant to mold and mildew. In addition, this material has low price. The disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its flammability, so for the garage it is recommended to choose only the brand PBS-S with fire retardant in the composition.

Modern

Do-it-yourself insulation of a metal garage from the inside using modern materials:

1. Penoizol- liquid foam. It is waterproof, flame resistant and durable. The cost of it below than that of polystyrene foam.
2. Asstratek– is applied to the surface like regular paint, so easy to use. It will reliably protect the walls of a metal garage. In terms of thermal insulation properties, the astratek layer is comparable to a 500 mm mineral wool coating.
3. Polyurethane foam(PPU). To use it you will need a special one. equipment. This method of insulation is the most reliable and durable (the coating lasts for 70 years), but it is also quite Expensive.

In the photo below insulation DIY metal garage:

Process description

How to do it right insulate unheated metal garage?

The quality of the thermal coating of garage surfaces depends on compliance technologies. Each method has its own nuances and sequence of the process. Let us describe the work process step by step:

To reduce heat loss when leaving the garage, you can make a small door or build a curtain next to them. The material for the curtain can be thick fabric or 0.8 mm film. This is done as follows:

• a wooden strip is stuffed next to the gate;
• the material is cut to the required height;
• The material is overlapped in strips of 20 cm and attached to the rail using a stapler.

More in a reliable way will insulation of gates sheathing with suitable material.

Most often used for this Styrofoam. This choice is due to its lightness and ease of installation.

The foam is cut with a knife into the required pieces. To attach it to the gate, wooden strips are stuffed, which will hold the foam.

Metal surfaces are covered with waterproofing, and the slats are impregnated with anti-fungal agent.

Pieces of foam plastic are lubricated with a special adhesive composition and attached to the gate. The cracks and joints must be sealed with sealant or foamed.

The surface of the insulation can be covered with slats, plastic panels or any materials that are resistant to moisture.

Be sure to lay a foam or rubber gasket around the perimeter to prevent it from getting into the gap. cold air.

If there are drains or vents in the lower part, cover them with rags during the winter.

All of the above methods of insulation are suitable for using them outside. The use of simultaneous insulation from the outside and inside will allow you to get the maximum warm room, in which it will not only effectively store the car, but also comfortably carry out different kinds works

Compliance with technology and everyone the listed rules insulation metal garage will allow you to get a guaranteed result. Your car will be under reliable protection.

ru-house.net

Which insulation is better to take

Naturally, the insulation of an unheated metal garage for any normal owner begins with the choice of material. And if previously it was mainly only foam plastic, now the market provides many options.

1. Board materials of medium and high strength;
2. Soft fibrous;
3. Foam;
4. Liquid insulation.

Slab insulation

• Both in the past and to this day when insulating metal structures One of the most popular materials is foam boards. Such popular love is associated, first of all, with affordable cost. But this is not the only advantage of the old polystyrene foam. These boards are not afraid of humidity and normal conditions A closed garage can last at least 25 - 30 years. Of the negative qualities in our case, we can only name flammability, although here too the market offers self-extinguishing PSB-S slabs;
• The closest relative and competitor of polystyrene foam is extruded polystyrene foam, in our country better known as Penoplex (after the name of the manufacturer). This material surpasses its predecessor in almost all characteristics.

Penoplex is strong enough to pour a screed over it and place a car on this screed. In terms of thermal insulation, it is about a third better; polystyrene foam, 30 mm thick, easily replaces a 50 mm sheet of foam plastic.

If the foam plastic is partially breathable, then Penoplex is considered a reliable waterproofing material and can be installed even under water. Everything about it is good, but the price is almost 2 times higher than that of foam plastic, and for most owners of metal garages this is important.

Cotton insulation

Here I will immediately disappoint you. Whatever the density of fiber boards or mats, they are all subject to the same misfortune. These materials do not tolerate moisture even in small doses. When wet by 1%, the thermal insulation properties of any of these insulation materials drop by 7 - 9%.

Metal sheets cannot be insulated with cotton wool. In the confined space of a garage, the dew point will be in close proximity to the sheet. And if you apply hygroscopic insulation to the metal, then even with polyethylene waterproofing or a layer regular paint it will very quickly become saturated with moisture and become useless. There is one trick here, but I will tell you about it later.

Foam

• The most famous material in this niche is polyurethane foam. The developers promise that such a “fur coat” will serve for at least 50 years. It is quite durable, not afraid of moisture, and thermal insulation characteristics slightly inferior only to penoplex.
  But it has 2 serious flaws: firstly, the price of the material is above average, and secondly, you will also have to pay specialists for applying this foam, since self-installation in in this case is impossible due to your lack of expensive equipment;
• The so-called penoizol is not much cheaper than the previous option. I won’t praise it, I’ll just say that it’s the same polystyrene foam, only in cylinders. Compared to slabs, it benefits only due to its sealed, seamless installation.

Polyurethane foam should not be used as the main insulation; it was invented for completely different purposes. Plus, as far as I know, insulating just the gates exclusively with polyurethane foam will require at least 5 - 7 cylinders, and if you calculate the total square footage with all the nooks and crannies, the garage will come out “golden”.

Newfangled polymer paints

• The most famous liquid polymer insulation at the moment is heat insulation paint"Astratek". This is a great solution for the rich and lazy. It is applied with a roller or a regular brush. A layer thickness of 1 mm is enough to replace a fifty-millimeter cotton mat. It is not afraid of moisture, does not burn and, according to the developers, lasts at least 10 - 15 years.
  But to provide a coating 1 mm thick per 1 m², you will need a little more than 1 liter of such paint, and this 1 liter costs 400 rubles and more. If you consider that at least 2 such layers are needed, it is not difficult to calculate how much all the insulation will cost you;
• Recently, a new heat-insulating paint under the brand name “Corundum” entered the market.. It was a worthy competitor to the previous option, since at a price of about 600 rubles per liter, to ensure the same level of thermal insulation per 1 m², only 400 g of the composition is needed, the savings are obvious.

How to insulate a garage

We’ve kind of figured out the basic material, now it’s time to tell you how to properly insulate an unheated metal garage. I think you yourself know how to use a brush and paint, so there is no point in stopping at liquid polymer insulation. But we can talk about other options.

As is known, in theory similar works carried out both inside and outside the premises. But to be honest, I have never seen such metal structures they covered the outside with something, so further we will only talk about how to insulate an iron garage from the inside.

A few words about preparation

Whatever you decide to decorate the walls with from the inside, first of all you need to prepare any base. If you skip this step, then either the metal sheet will rust over time, or the insulation will fall off.

It is no secret that the main enemy of most ferrous metals is corrosion, so the sheet must, first of all, be protected from banal rust. If the metal is clean, that is, not painted, you need to walk over the surface with an iron cord brush. Things will go faster if you take the appropriate attachment for an angle grinder or drill. Old paint can also be easily scraped off with a cord brush.

If the sheet is painted with good quality paint, then there is little point in removing it; under a thick layer of insulation nothing will happen to it. Separately, I would like to say about the so-called “shells” (garages made of galvanized corrugated sheets on a frame made of profiled pipes or angles). The corrugated sheet initially has a high-quality coating and does not need to be touched.

The final stage of preparation is degreasing with acetone or some similar composition.

Then you need to act according to the situation. For polyurethane foam or penoizol this is enough. But it’s better to paint the iron underneath the foam plastic again. In my garage I used Kuzbasslak; it is not expensive and of high quality.

We install polystyrene foam

In my opinion, if the walls of your garage are welded from a smooth, even sheet, then polystyrene foam will be the best option. In this case, when buying Penoplex, you are actually overpaying 2 times for 3–4 cm of space savings. On walls and ceilings, the strength of the coating does not play a big role, especially if you are going to sheathe them later.

For those who are short on funds, there is an economical cladding option. It should be noted here that in regions where the temperature in winter drops to -20 - 25ºС, the thickness of the foam plastic is taken to be at least 100 mm, otherwise there is little point in undertaking all this; for foam plastic, 70 mm is enough. Although there is one trick, I will tell you about it a little later.

The instructions themselves are extremely simple. You need to take the required number of sheets, cut them so that they completely cover the walls and glue them. You can use any construction adhesive; I personally used Liquid Nails. Small cracks and gaps that you will inevitably have need to be filled with foam.

By the way, the same mounting foam can be used instead of glue. Apply several stripes and apply the sheet to the wall. Only in this case you need to press several times over the course of an hour, since the foam expands and the sheet will come off in the first couple of days.

In principle, we can stop there. But as I promised, there is one trick. In order not to buy too thick foam, you can take thinner material.

Only here you will need foil-coated isolon on both sides. The base of this soft fabric is made of polyethylene foam, which is covered with foil on both sides.

So, this same isolon is glued on top of your polystyrene foam. As a result, we get the effect of a thermos, plus a pretty decent silver wall covering. As for thermal insulation, this is enough. But, as you know, polystyrene foam is a soft material and it is impossible to put nails with hooks on it or hang shelves, and you must admit, without this it is difficult in the garage.

A foam coating with isolon is perfect for arranging the ceiling in an iron garage. You won’t put anything on it, but there’s enough beauty as it is.

In order to make a major, warm lining from the inside with our own hands, we will have to equip wooden sheathing on walls and gates. Any metal garage has a reinforcing frame, so we will attach our wooden blocks to it. It is not so important what exactly the garage is reinforced with, be it a corner or a profiled pipe, we simply drill a series of holes on the side and, at intervals of about 20 - 30 cm, fasten the wooden block with self-tapping screws.

There is one nuance here: the height of the block should not be lower than the level of foam insulation. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient for you to attach the internal finishing lining.

When the wooden sheathing is secured, we proceed according to the scheme described above. That is, strictly according to the dimensions of the openings, we cut out the slab insulation closely, glue it to the base and blow out the gaps with foam. Next, you can stuff the clapboard onto the sheathing.

For more simple option Sheathing made of OSB panels or thick plywood is suitable; they will withstand any reasonable load. I’ll add on my own behalf that in any case it’s worth sticking isolon or at least just a layer of foil on top of the foam, such a layer increases the heat-reflecting effect many times over.

Especially if you are going to use the currently fashionable UFO radiators for heating. Ultra-violet rays they are reflected much better from the foil coating, even if this coating is under wooden cladding.

Floor insulation

According to building regulations, an uninsulated foundation in a private house takes up to 20% of the energy spent on heating. The garage in this case is practically no different from a residential building. From experience I can say that an insulated floor blocks dampness from the concrete screed.

True, I decided not to skimp on floor insulation. I have a metal garage box on a small, shallow strip foundation. Inside, the previous owners did not bother and simply covered the floor with waste slag. Those who know what waste slag from steel-smelting furnaces is can imagine how much dust there is in such a garage, so it had to be changed in any case.

First, I removed about 150 mm of soil along with slag, after which I leveled and compacted the base a little. The first layer of the “pie” is 50 mm sand; if possible, it needs to be leveled and compacted along the horizon. Next, I laid a layer of penoplex 50 mm thick. If the base is flat, then joining it is not difficult; there are special grooves there.

There is no need to waterproof Penoplex; as I already said, it itself is a good waterproofing agent. I poured a couple of centimeters of sand onto the insulation, knitted a two-layer reinforcement cage from ten-millimeter reinforcement and poured a concrete screed on top of approximately 50 - 70 mm.

But that is not all. In order for the floor to be truly warm, you need to make an inclined blind area around the garage, just like when arranging the foundation of a house.

According to the rules, in order for the soil under the building not to freeze, the width of the blind area must be equal to the freezing level in a given region. But in practice, the tape is usually about a meter wide. The technology for laying the blind area is the same, only the insulation and concrete screed are installed at an angle of at least 3 cm.

I was assured that instead of penoplex, you can put sheets of foam plastic with a density of about 37 kg/m³ in the screed. Allegedly, such a pillow can withstand any a car down to the bead, plus it comes out cheaper. This may be true, but I believe that in such structures a margin of safety has never been superfluous.

Many people now prefer to install a slab foundation instead of a shallow concrete foundation strip. Simply put, they make a small sand and gravel pad and lay concrete floor slabs on it. So, if you are just going to build a garage, then under the slabs, right on the fill, you need to lay a layer of penoplex, it will withstand the load.

If the garage is already built on slabs, then it can only be insulated from below by constructing an overlay floor made of wood. As you know, concrete floor slabs are hollow, so first you need to plug the holes in the ends with something.

The arrangement itself is not complicated. To prevent wood from drawing moisture from concrete, the base must be waterproofed. Spend money on expensive roll waterproofing It’s not worth it, roofing felt or technical polyethylene is enough.

Now we lay joists across the garage, insert foam plastic between them and cover everything with floor covering on top. 50x50 mm bars are used as lags, respectively, foam plastic slabs with a thickness of 50 mm are used.

In order for your floor to be guaranteed to withstand the car, the distance between the lags should be no more than 40 cm.

For flooring there are 2 options. Floor tongue and groove board with a thickness of 40 mm or more, or two layers of FSF plywood, each with a thickness of at least 16 mm. To make the floor wear less easily, you can lay linoleum on top.

Alternative options

It is most difficult for owners of “shells” to insulate their garages. As you know, the corrugated sheet itself is wavy and it is difficult to cover it completely with polystyrene foam. In theory, of course, you can build a wooden sheathing based on the frame and pack it with polystyrene foam; in essence, you get a box within a box.

But the problem is that, as a rule, the dimensions of the “shells” are already more than modest; if you add another 150–200 mm for insulation, this will be very noticeable. Apart from insulating paint, there is only one way out, using foam.

In the conditions of central Russia, the layer of polyurethane foam or penoizol should be at least 50 - 70 mm. This is subject to additional installation wooden finishing cladding or foil isolon.

The cross-section of profiled pipes or frame corners in such structures often does not exceed 35 - 40 mm. This is not enough, the coating is corrugated, which means more foam will be needed to fill the depressions. While the layer thickness in narrow places will be less than 40 mm. As a result, you will pay money, and the garage will freeze.

I told all this to mean that a wooden hanging frame, even if not so voluminous, in the case of “shells” still needs to be mounted. To some extent, you will be able to save money only if you make this frame yourself and prepare the surface of the corrugated sheet (degrease it). Then you will only pay for the material and a couple of hours of specialist work; 1 – 2 hours is enough for a professional to blow foam into a garage.

At the beginning of the article, I promised to talk about a trick with which you can insulate an unheated metal garage with mineral wool. We will talk specifically about dense, basalt cotton slabs. Such slabs do not shrink with slight moisture. Whereas, when wet, soft mineral mats, as well as glass wool, immediately lose volume and are not restored after drying.

Often the dew point on the walls of a heated garage is almost on the surface of the metal, so drops of condensation settle on the iron walls. I saw how one of my friends, in order to cope with this problem, filled a wooden sheathing and on top of it completely covered the entire garage with about 5 - 7 mm thick, foil-coated isolon.

After which he inserted basalt slabs into the niches, covered it all with another layer of isolon and covered it with clapboard. As a result, the hygroscopic basalt wool ended up in an isolated cocoon. And most importantly, at a distance of several millimeters from cold iron. The result turned out to be quite decent; the garage has been reliably keeping warm and not getting wet for several years now.

I would also like to say a few words about auxiliary things when insulating garages. Naturally, when the garage door is opened wide when leaving or entering the garage, all the precious heat instantly evaporates. As far as I have seen, this can only really be combated with the help of a thermal curtain.

That is, a special fan heater is mounted above the gate, which separates the outside cold with a powerful flow warm air. But the price of such a fan is not small, plus its power consumption is substantial, at least 3 - 4 kW. Although if you use it only when the doors are fully open, you won’t spend much.

Things like clear plastic petal curtains, like the ones you find in car washes, should only be hung if you don't mind scratching your car. Even if you make them from soft polyethylene, after several trips, scratches will remain on the roof.

It’s not that difficult to insulate a metal garage, so it’s worth doing. Moreover, the price will not be high, especially compared to the effect. We will look at how to insulate a metal garage from the inside and outside in this article.

You will also be able to see photos and videos and instructions will be given for performing this work.

How to make insulation

If you are thinking about how to insulate a metal garage with your own hands, then this work must be approached in stages. Insulation will need to cover the ceiling, walls, and doors.

Attention: The best insulation option for a metal garage is mineral wool. It is quite simple to install, provides good insulation, does not burn, and is inexpensive compared to its analogues. Glass wool is cheaper than mineral wool, but it deteriorates from moisture and is prone to burning.

So:

• You can also use polystyrene foam for insulation. This material provides excellent insulation, withstands moisture well and insulates from sound. Simple polystyrene foam melts, but there is a type that is impregnated special composition"PBS-S". Upon contact with fire it will begin to go out. Only this type of foam can be used to insulate a garage.
• Another advantage of polystyrene foam is that it is quite easy to install. For these purposes, liquid foam insulation, as well as other similar materials, can be used.

How the work is carried out

Do-it-yourself insulation of a metal garage is done on the inside and takes place in several stages.

• Before starting the process, the garage should be emptied of all items that are in it. After this, we can safely begin work. If the walls of the garage have flaws and unevenness, then everything needs to be leveled. We also remove all dirt from the walls so that no stains of paint, oil or other components remain.
• In order to install foam sheets, you need to attach them to the bottom and top L-shaped profile. It is made of metal and is a limiter for sheets.
• Polystyrene foam is attached to the walls using special glue. The glue is evenly distributed over the wall with a spatula or applied pointwise.
• You should start work from the bottom of the wall, it’s much more convenient. Each row is laid, tying the seams. The glue will dry completely after three days.
• For beauty, foam sheets can be pasted over plaster mesh and plaster or paint it with special facade paint.

Attention: If you plan to use mineral wool, you will need to create a sheathing. It is made from metal profiles and also from wood. If wooden blocks are used, they are pre-treated with a composition that protects against fire.

• The sheathing is nailed down or assembled using self-tapping screws. Metal elements also tightened with bolts. As a result, square cells should appear with a pitch of no more than sixty centimeters.
• The sheathing is attached to the wall. Mineral wool is inserted into the resulting cells, after which the frame is covered with gypsum board sheets.

Attention: a metal garage is extremely rarely insulated using lathing. It will be quite difficult to attach the timber here.

Ways to insulate a garage ceiling

For these purposes, it is best to use foam plastic, because it does not require lathing, and doing it on the ceiling is not recommended and is extremely inconvenient.

• The foam is fixed in the same way as when insulating walls. When insulating a garage, you need to pay attention to the gate.
• They take up quite a lot of space, and due to the fact that the garage is metal, they will constantly be cold. Moisture flows through the gate and cold air blows.
• Traditionally, polystyrene foam is used for gates. It has advantages over mineral wool, because when exposed to moisture it deteriorates and requires the installation of sheathing. Expanded polystyrene burns, but if you coat it with a special compound, you can forget about this problem.
• This material is fixed assembly adhesive. Sheets must be placed offset.
• The remaining cracks are filled with polyurethane foam, after which everything is covered with foil and fixed with glue.

Attention: Do not forget that clearance is necessary for ventilation. The structure is sheathed on top with a molding. It can be replaced with plastic analogues.

For interior decoration plastic can be used successfully indoors; it does not burn, unlike wooden elements. For such purposes, experts do not recommend using corrugated sheets, because they are made of metal and reduce the quality of thermal insulation.

We insulate garage doors

How to insulate a metal garage with your own hands along the plane of the gate (see). Here it is best to paste them with insulation.

But some also do lathing. Although this is a time-consuming question. After all, you won’t make the fastening on the wall. There will be holes left.

So:

• We first adjust the foam, trying it on the surface.
• After that, apply glue and attach it to the surface.
• The main thing is to ensure that no air gaps are formed. After the insulation of the gate is finished, the insulated surface on top is covered with facing slabs or lining, which gives a more attractive appearance. Now you can rest assured that metal gates will not let in the cold.
• The seams are filled with polyurethane foam.

We insulate the walls of the garage

How to insulate a metal garage on the walls. This is the most extensive work. And the plane is also the largest.

• If the garage is a simple metal box, then in this case we must insulate the external and internal walls. Insulation of walls is mainly done from inside the room. They use lightweight foam with excellent thermal insulation. Installing insulation can be the same as internally insulating the house itself. Foam plastic can also be glued to the walls of the building.

Attention: The sheathing is attached to the walls only in cases of a double wall garage. If it is the same, then it will be impossible to do this. In this case, you cannot make holes in the surface, then use metal corner, which will allow you to connect the beams to each other.

• Using polystyrene foam for insulation is a fairly cheap, but at the same time effective way. At the moment, the most popular are astratec or penosiol, which are applied in a small layer. After hardening, they form a durable layer. Penosiol is cheaper than polystyrene foam.

Insulation of an iron garage from the outside

For this type of insulation, by and large, any of the options described above are suitable, even such as “covering the weight of the garage with a foam block.” The only thing worth considering is that the insulation used is not protected in any way from precipitation, so it must be covered with wind barriers and waterproofing on top.

But at the same time, there is no need to protect it from the inside with a vapor barrier, because this function is taken over by the walls of the garage.

Attention: When deciding on the insulation of a building, there is no need to be paranoid about any openings. In addition to insulation, it is extremely important to ensure good hood. Otherwise, the garage will become damp and the body of your car will become corroded.

Insulating a metal garage will significantly affect the safety of your car. The costs are not high, so it would be wise to do it yourself.

A metal garage is a reliable shelter for a car not only from the encroachment of unscrupulous persons, but also from weather factors unfavorable for this vehicle, such as snow or rain. But a poorly equipped garage made of metal profiles by itself is not able to fully protect the car from the effects of harsh climatic conditions.

The temperature in the garage should be comfortable for the safety of the car, that is, it should be stable, without changes and higher than outside. Such conditions can be achieved in a metal garage by insulating the gates, ceilings and walls.

The two main enemies of a car when it is idle are frost and moisture. Frost can cause corrosion of the car body, cracking of various fuel and oil lines, etc. And moisture is the main cause of rust, mold and similar formations.

Good to know: optimal temperature in the garage it should be in the range from -5 in winter to +25 in summer.

In the summer it is not difficult to influence this indicator - install an air conditioner or a couple of fans and the problem is solved. It's a different matter in winter. Of course, you can install a heating system in the garage. However, this is not always convenient and profitable.

Firstly, this extra costs for electricity or other resources spent on heating. Secondly, the garage is not always located in close proximity to the car owner’s home, and leaving a garage with the heating system on without proper supervision is not always prudent and safe.

The way out of this situation is to insulate a metal garage with your own hands. By insulating the garage, you can, in fact, solve not one, but two problems at once:

• keep the garage warm in winter;
• cool in summer.

This is very important, because summer heat also does not have a very favorable effect on the car.

Before carrying out insulation work, all surfaces must be cleaned of dirt, dust, rust, etc.

It is possible (and even recommended) to treat the metal of the gate, walls and ceiling with anti-corrosion agents, seal all existing cracks and cracks with sealants, and also, if possible, get rid of any irregularities, bulges, etc.

What to insulate

The answer would seem obvious: everything needs to be insulated - the floor, ceiling and walls. However, if everything is very clear with the walls and ceiling, then with the garage floor, not everything is so obvious.

Since a garage is a place to park a car, the floor in this room has its own specifics. Firstly, it is constantly subject to increased mechanical stress. This includes the weight of the car, and the installation of any equipment (various winches, workbenches, boxes for spare parts and tools), and so on. Therefore, insulation must be performed with materials with increased strength. Secondly, quite often quite aggressive substances such as gasoline, various oils, diesel fuel, solvents and others get on the surface of the garage floor. This must also be taken into account when choosing insulation materials, adhesives, sealants, etc.

Note: If your garage has an inspection hole, then the process of insulating the floor becomes quite complicated. In this case, it will not be possible to use a continuous layer of insulation, and you will have to choose: either abandon floor insulation at all, or at the same time insulate and inspection hole. Otherwise, insulation work will not give any tangible effect.

How to insulate

Before you insulate a garage, you need to answer the questions: how to insulate an iron garage from the inside? What's the best way to do this? What material should I use? This will help you find the answer to the question: how to properly insulate your garage?

Let's look at a few of the most suitable materials for these purposes.

Mineral wool. Possessing high thermal insulation properties, this material is very good for insulating a garage. However, mineral wool is very vapor permeable. Therefore, when using mineral wool as insulation, you definitely need to take care of high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

Penoplex. It is highly undesirable to insulate a metal garage from the inside with penoplex. The reason for this is that in the garage work is often carried out with materials, devices and tools that are easily flammable. Penoplex burns well, and is also capable of emitting acrid smoke.

Glass wool. This material costs less than mineral wool and is more fire-resistant than penoplex. However, these indicators are not so good as to make glass wool optimal insulation for the garage. Glass wool insulation also requires additional hydro- and vapor barrier.

Astratek. Modern liquid insulation, which is applied with a conventional spray gun, like paint. This material is reliable protection metal walls garage. The insulation of an iron garage with Astratek is no worse in terms of performance than the thermal insulation of a similar room with a 5-centimeter layer of mineral wool.

Penoizol. This is the same polystyrene foam, only in liquid form. It is durable, waterproof and, unlike conventional polystyrene and penoplex, penoizol is fire resistant. And the cost of this material is lower than that of the same foam.

Polyurethane foam. One of the most reliable and most durable insulation materials. Its service life can last up to 70 years. The only disadvantages of this material include its fairly high cost, and the fact that special equipment is needed to install polyurethane foam.

Each of the above materials has both its pros and cons. Some are cheaper, some are more expensive. Some things are easier to work with, some things are more difficult. There are plenty of options on how to insulate a metal garage from the inside, and much depends on the financial capabilities of the owner, his enthusiasm, taste, and so on.

In this article, we tried to provide basic information on how to insulate a metal garage with your own hands. This will help you get a clear picture of what you will have to face when insulating your garage space. More detailed information We will talk about insulating a garage from a metal profile sheet in other articles from this category.

And further short video about insulating a garage with foam

A garage is more than just a place for a car. You can carry out repairs in it, sit in company and store unnecessary things. Only for all these purposes heat is needed.

But what to do on cold days, and even when metal frame? You can, of course, install a stove or an electric heater. But this is unlikely to help in the presence of drafts. And proper insulation of a metal garage contributes to a comfortable microclimate. That's why we'll talk about this.

Why should you insulate your garage?

First of all, let us remember that when heat and cold come into contact, condensation forms. This means that if the garage is not insulated but heated, the car body may be susceptible to rust.

Cold has a bad effect on engine performance. In case of deep minus, the car will have to warm up for a long time. After all, the oil low temperatures becomes viscous.

The optimal indicator is considered to be from +5 to +25°C. Insulation will provide protection from both cold and significant temperature increases.

When using various heating devices protected walls will keep the heat inside. Iron has a high heat transfer rate. It turns out that by heating the metal, we also heat the street. This leads to excessive energy consumption.

Preparatory work

High-quality insulation requires several stages in preparing the garage box:

Insulation of garage walls

You can protect walls from cold penetration:

• from the inside;
• outside;
• at both sides.

The last option is the most effective, but also the most expensive. More often used internal insulation. But it is convenient only at the beginning of construction. It requires free space around the walls. Also inconvenient is the reduction in the operating area. Thin insulation and heat-preserving paints will help cope with the latter.

Insulation with foil insulation

Basically, roll materials are produced with one or both reflective surfaces. They are created based on:

• foamed polyethylene;
• mineral wool;
• polystyrene.

The thickness of such insulation is small. Foil retains up to 90% of the heat inside the garage. This makes it possible to reduce the thickness of the base. As a result, the insulation procedure has virtually no effect on the area of ​​the room.
Another advantage is the vapor and water resistance of the material. Foil prevents vapors from the room from reaching the metal. This protects the walls from corrosion. Thanks to this characteristic, money is saved on vapor barriers.

This type of insulation is attached to the metal using wooden slats. The sheathing elements must be placed vertically. When positioned horizontally, the wood will be saturated with moisture flowing down the foil.

Before the foil layer is required air gap. It promotes air movement and natural moisture removal.

Insulation by painting

The advantage of this type of work is:

• simplicity. You can apply paint using a regular brush or roller;
• durability. The coating is resistant to mechanical stress, oil, gasoline and other compounds often found in the garage;
• moisture resistance. When drying, the paint forms a strong, elastic film that repels liquid;
• environmental friendliness All paints are made from safe materials;
• fire resistance. Charring of the layer occurs at a temperature of +260°C;
• efficiency. 1 mm of layer is equal to 50 mm of mineral wool.

The disadvantages of this technology include the high cost of the material.

Insulation with mineral wool

This type of insulation has good characteristics. He:

• promotes fire extinguishing in case of fire;
• non-toxic;
• easy to process;
• has low weight.

You can purchase the material in rolls or slabs. Fastening occurs on a wooden frame. Another advantage of cotton wool is its compressibility. You can take a less rigid approach to measuring the distances between slats.

Before installing insulation, a moisture-proofing film should be secured over the metal. After installation, a vapor barrier is laid on the insulation. It is attached to wooden slats with a stapler.

Mineral wool fibers have high water absorption. When exposed to moisture, the material loses its insulating properties.

Foam insulation

The advantages of polystyrene foam:

• accessibility;
• variety of densities and sizes;
• low weight;
• low absorption of liquids;
• easy processing.

The foam is attached to the frame or with glue. The second method is less expensive, but more risky. You need to choose the right, highly adhesive adhesive composition.

In the conditions of central Russia, it is necessary to use a 100 mm layer. But it is better to carry out a thermal engineering calculation before starting work. He will show required thickness material for conservation optimal conditions indoors.

Insulation using backfill

This technology is very simple and effective. It is only suitable for garages with large area. After all, to install the frame you will need at least 30 cm of free space.

Insulation involves installing additional fencing inside the room along the perimeter of the walls. The space between the two structures is filled with insulating material:

• sawdust;
• expanded clay;
• foam granules;
• slag, etc.

It turns out something like well masonry.

The disadvantage of this type of wall insulation is the possibility of contents spilling out. In addition, mice can get in between the walls, but for a garage this is not a big problem.

The advantages are:

• ease of installation;
• efficiency;
• environmental friendliness.

External insulation depends on:

• absence of trees around the perimeter of the garage;
• sunny and warm weather;
• proximity to other garages.

It is made using the same materials as the internal one. The difference is final finishing. It should be stronger and the waterproofing layer denser.

Ventilation device

Excess toxic gases released by:

• running car;
• fuel;
• paints and varnishes;
• oils, etc.

require mandatory ventilation. It is necessary that at least 190 m3/hour enter the garage fresh air. But this detail of the room increases heat loss by 30%. Because ventilation pipes must be insulated.

Insulation of ventilation can be due to both materials and technology. For example, the “pipe in pipe” system allows you to warm the air coming from the street to room temperature.

The material for pipe insulation is:

• polyurethane foam;
• expanded polystyrene;
• isolon;
• felt;
• mineral wool.

Attaching materials to the box occurs:

• due to the locking system in the material itself;
• using plastic clamps;
• fixing with glue;
• wrapping it with tape.

Heat loss can be reduced by installing supply and exhaust system with air heating. It can also cleanse air masses, saturating them with ions.

Insulation of garage ceiling

The ceiling can be flat or sloped. Insulation costs uneven ceiling will cost more. Therefore, it is better to align everything to one level.

The materials for insulation are:

• dense insulation;
• bulk materials;
• soft mats.

When choosing any insulation, the installation technology is the same:

• We screw wooden slats onto the rough ceiling. The thickness depends on the chosen insulation;
• lay a layer of film, securing it to the slats with a stapler;
• hems the space between the slats with plywood or OSB boards. Thus, cells are formed on the ceiling. We sew up the space in parts;
• fill the cells with insulation, placing it on top of the lining

It is advisable to lay wires in protected boxes. This will eliminate the possibility of the insulation catching fire due to sparking.

Foam boards can be attached directly to the flow using glue or polyurethane foam. This will simplify installation, reducing insulation time.

Floor insulation

The floor is one of the most problematic areas of the garage. It is subjected to considerable loads and mechanical stress. Therefore, the insulation must be dense and able to withstand the entire vehicle.

Special slab materials are used to insulate garages. For example, they use polystyrene foam labeled PSB S-35. It is designed for high static and dynamic loads.

Insulation with less durable products is possible when constructing a load-bearing frame. It is created from metal profile. Metal beams welded to the iron base. For these purposes it is better to use I-beams. The height of the element depends on the “pie” of the floor.

The following layers are made as standard:

• waterproofing sheet;
• concrete base 100 mm thick;
• insulation;
• waterproofing;
• leveling reinforced screed.

Reinforcement is carried out in two directions with Ø 8 mm reinforcement.

Floor insulation with expanded clay is done as follows:

• a waterproofing film is placed on the metal;
• Expanded clay backfill is laid on it;
• A film is laid on the expanded clay. This eliminates the possibility of cement seeping into the backfill;
• lies on top of the film metal grid, serving as reinforcement;
• the base is filled with cement.

The covering can be left concrete or tiles can be placed on top of the screed. Reinforced concrete is also used for garage floors. It will protect the base and the insulation hidden underneath it.

• find hinges and bolts;
• cling to the floor, preventing closing;
• get into the opening, preventing a tight connection.

Before insulation, it is necessary to inspect the frame of the gate and gate for distortion. If cracks are found during closing, they must be removed by welding the necessary metal.

Knowing how to insulate a metal garage, you can create a cozy, dry and, most importantly, warm place to store vehicles. The correct choice of materials and adherence to the sequence of actions will extend the service life for many years.

A metal garage performs many useful functions. Caring car owners park their car inside it for the winter, other people simply store their summer harvest, and still others equip the box for a workshop. All these goals will be successfully realized if the garage is well insulated from the inside.

The minimum temperature for such a room is considered to be −5 degrees; Otherwise, vegetables will rot, it will be cold to work there, and condensation will form on the car, causing rust. Therefore, it is advisable to insulate an iron garage from the inside in order to effectively retain heat.

Suitable materials for insulation

Traditional materials and new products, the quality of which only a few have been tested, can significantly increase the temperature inside a metal garage. Examples good insulation materials are:

• polystyrene foam (the most common material, characterized by low cost and ease of use);
• penoizol (liquid form of the above, with a durability of over 40 years, good water resistance, fire resistance);
• astratek (another liquid insulation; material applied in a 1 mm thick layer is comparable in quality to a five-centimeter layer of mineral wool);
• polyurethane foam (durable material with a minimum service life of 50 years);
• mineral or basalt wool (soft inexpensive insulation, second in demand after foam).

The listed materials are almost the same in quality, and the demand for one or another is usually determined by price. Therefore, polystyrene foam and mineral wool are considered the most popular.

Having decided on the choice of material for insulating the garage from the inside, you can begin preparatory work.

Required Tools

It is advisable to insulate the garage in the warm season, but sometimes the situation forces you to carry out work when sub-zero temperature. Here there is a need to insulate the box quickly and reliably. To use time efficiently, the following equipment is prepared in advance:

• electric drill;
• mask and gloves (protective);
• welding machine;
• building level;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• metal scissors;
• tape measure from 5 m;
• staples and furniture stapler;
• wooden blocks for the horizontal crossbars of the sheathing;
• steel profile.

If the above is present, it’s time to start insulating the garage from the inside.

Preparatory stage

When lining metal structures, it is paramount to take care of anti-corrosion treatment. To do this, use a metal brush to remove rust if it is present on the surfaces, and if necessary, patch repair(a specific small area), then paint the surface with a special anti-corrosion solution.

Sometimes the right question arises - how to insulate a metal garage for a long time if the surface is treated? Second important factor To ensure comfortable conditions inside the garage is to create ventilation. It should remove air from the garage, replacing it with fresh air. Otherwise, the accumulation of gases will cause condensation, which will negatively affect the supporting structure of the garage, car or stored food.

After waiting for 1-2 days for the applied anti-corrosion solution to completely dry, the insulation of the metal box from the inside begins. It is advisable to carry out the work in the following sequence - insulate the walls, then the ceiling, the gate with a wicket, and, if necessary, the floor.

Insulation of garage walls and ceilings

The process is discussed using an example basalt wool. This material has the following characteristics:

• low thermal conductivity;
• durability (from 50 years);
• affordability;
• preservation of qualities when humidity increases inside the garage;
• comfort in working with the material;
• mildew resistance;
• environmental cleanliness;
• non-flammability.

Subsequence internal lining walls with mineral insulation is as follows:

1. The location of the sheathing is determined, and the amount of material required is calculated depending on the area of ​​the sheathed surface. For frame would be better suited steel profile, since wood collapses faster when interacting with moisture. Also, the latter material “leads” when slightly wet.
2. Vertical guides are installed. The distance between them should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation so that it expands and efficiently takes up space. To strengthen the structure, crossbars are placed horizontally every meter, which here can be wooden.
3. The installed sheathing is surrounded by a membrane or other waterproofing material. The joints are taped, and the film is attached to the staples (a furniture stapler will do).
4. The insulation is placed inside the sheathing from bottom to top. There should be no gaps.
5. Layer vapor barrier material applied on top of the insulation (roofing material or polyethylene film are suitable).
6. The final stage is covering the sheathing. Made with non-flammable material; An example is steel siding or drywall.

It is important to take into account that when covering the garage from the inside, the space narrows. The insulation should not be too bulky.

When covering with foam plastic, you need to take into account some features of the material. It does not expand like cotton wool, so there is no need to make the distance between the frame guides 1-2 cm smaller. It is better to create the sheathing in blocks, the dimensions of which exactly match the dimensions of the foam. If there are any defects, the walls should be leveled first. It is also advisable to use an L-shaped profile and attach the insulation sheets with glue.

Work with liquid materials will be inconvenient, so it is better to line the top of the garage with foam. The fixation method is similar to that previously discussed, but there is one caveat - you should take care that there are no holes in the roof of the box. If there are any, welding will come to the rescue. As with walls, when insulating the ceiling, a layer of foam plastic is located between the hydro- and vapor barrier layer.

Entrance trim

Wall insulation will not be beneficial if cold air enters through the cracks entrance gate or gates. The situation is easily solved by using rigid insulation such as polystyrene foam. First the gates are insulated, then a small Entrance door in them. The sequence is:

1. Treated with protective mastic metal surface. Expanded polystyrene is not afraid of moisture, however, when opening the gate, raindrops or snow can get into the cracks between the material and the iron sheet. This should not be allowed.
2. Attach lathing profiles along the perimeter of the gate.
3. Fix the polystyrene plates to the mounting adhesive; it is advisable to apply penofol (a foil-based material) on top of them.
4. Make a wooden sheathing for installation of the cladding. Provide a distance of about 30 mm between the future lining/plasterboard/other cladding material and polystyrene foam, so that there is an air gap.
5. Fix the cladding to the sheathing.
6. Perform similar actions with the gate.

Floor insulation

Sometimes there is a need to insulate the bottom of the garage. For example, if there is large gaps or the importance of the caisson (cellar). Suitable material will become foam plastic, on top of which a material is applied that prevents its destruction from human movement. Follow these steps:

1. Level the surface, remove cracks and holes with putty.
2. Prime the floor twice if it is concrete.
3. Make lathing from steel profiles.
4. Apply a layer of waterproofing.
5. Apply glue, put foam on top of it, press it to the floor.
6. Screed the floor with a special solution. Extracted granules are added to increase strength.

Carrying out the operations described above will allow you to maintain an optimal microclimate inside the garage. Even a beginner can master the process, and the result will be the safety of the car, food or other items of value stored inside the box.

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