Typically, the construction of a building is not the end point of the entire project. In order for the house to last good timing, it is important to follow the rules of care and preventive maintenance. This is especially true for log buildings. One of key points, which you need to know how to caulk a log house.
What, why, when
A bathhouse or house that was built from rounded logs or logs usually shrinks. In some cases, this value can reach 15–20 cm in the first year. This factor must be taken into account when designing. This phenomenon occurs when some of the moisture is lost and drying out occurs. During this process, loose connections of material may appear where previously everything seemed quite tight. To compensate for this unpleasant fact, it will be necessary to seal the seams. Simply put, this is an event that is aimed at sealing cracks to prevent drafts and reduce heat loss. Caulking should be done after complete shrinkage, which occurs within 6–7 months.
The better
In order to carry out the log sealing process as efficiently as possible, you need to acquire not only good tool, but also suitable material, and also have an idea of how to use them correctly. From the devices we will need:
- Caulk. This is a small device that in appearance resembles a chisel or chisel. Typically, to carry out tasks efficiently, you will need at least two types. One of them is called typesetting. The width of its blade can reach 10 cm. Thanks to it, you can move faster large plots. The second will be smaller, about 2-3 cm. It will be needed during compaction corner connections. Skillful craftsmen They use a curved tool, which allows them to do the work much better, but requires special skill.
- Material that will be used to fill the gaps. Previously, only natural fibers were used for these purposes. Today, synthetic materials have already been invented, as well as various sealants.
- Hammer. In this case, you can use any one you have on the farm, but it’s better if it’s a small sledgehammer.
Some craftsmen believe that it will be more convenient to work with wooden or rubber mallet, since the blow is soft, the logs are not damaged as a result. Opinions may differ, so everyone chooses the most suitable tool for themselves.
Moss
Red marsh moss is used for these purposes. This is one of the most environmentally friendly methods. It serves as a kind of antiseptic that prevents rotting. It has been used for centuries. This material allows the wood to breathe the best way. You can’t lay it too wet, you need to let it dry a little.
If this is not done, this may lead to the joints beginning to rot and the structure becoming unusable. But it is also not recommended to lay it dry. In this state, it will crumble easily, and subsequently will not be able to seal the seams hermetically. Before driving it, it is necessary to carry out certain processing. A water-based solution (10 l) is prepared, to which 500 ml of oil and 250 g of laundry soap are added. Mix everything until the soap is completely dissolved. After this, the moss is soaked and laid to drain a little. To make the roller easier to form, some craftsmen add tow fibers.
Tow
It is also a natural material that is very familiar to plumbers. Due to its fibrous structure, it serves as a good sealant. Some craftsmen are not very fond of this fiber. The fact is that it is quite difficult to work with him. Also, over time, the tow becomes unusable, which will force you to take out its remains and do everything again. Before laying it, it will be necessary to treat it with a special substance that will serve as an antiseptic and also repel insects that can feed on both the fibers themselves and cause harm to the wood.
An excellent material that, like moss, allows the tree to breathe. He is good filter, which does not allow odors to pass through. Additional synthetic inclusions began to be added to modern material, which made it even more durable. The main disadvantage of using this solution is that moths love to feast on felt. It is treated before caulking special compounds which repel this insect.
A modern material that is 100% flax and is a production waste. It is a good seal that does not interfere with air circulation. It has some rigidity, which complicates the caulking process.
One of the most the best materials. It not only perfectly fills cracks, but also protects the inter-crown space from moisture penetration. Birds don't use it to build their nests, so you don't have to worry about them pecking it off. It is made from wood from the linden family. It is usually imported from other countries. The material is soft and flexible.
Jute rope. In addition to its direct purpose, such caulking serves as a decorative finish.
Sealant
This modern method. Many manufacturers have joined this race. The material is supplied in special tubes. It is applied to the joints, after which a beautiful seam is formed.
What to choose is a personal decision for each individual. Everything will depend on the budget, as well as the availability of a particular material in a particular area. But it’s better not to skimp on material.
Technology
The process of sealing inter-crown seams is divided into two types. They are interchangeable and rather complement each other.
- Stretch. This type got its name due to the fact that the material stretches along the entire seam and the fibers intertwine with each other. It is usually used for primary caulk. After the construction of the log house, the cracks are still quite small, so there is no point in filling them with a thick layer of insulation and it is useless. The material is arranged in fibers so that they are perpendicular to the logs. Using a tool, it is pushed into the cracks. After this, the ends that are left hanging are tucked into a roller and compacted tightly into the seam.
- Included in the set. This method is used after the log house has shrunk and the cracks have become more noticeable. To do this, you will need to collect all the fibers in a heap and make ropes from them, which are then wound into a ball. Moreover, the thickness of such a rope will have to be calculated separately for each seam, because the cracks are not the same everywhere.
After the distribution of roll material, the process of sealing seams was greatly simplified. Primary laying is usually done immediately when laying the logs. To do this, it is placed on the lunar recess roll material and secured with construction stapler. Next, the log is placed in its place. There is no need to carry out additional work after complete assembly.
During initial sealing, it is important not to save material, but also not to lay it in a large layer. One strip will not be enough, so two are laid. One should go next to the other, and the edges should protrude a few centimeters. This is very important to give stability to the log and make it easier for yourself when re-processing is carried out.
Secondary compaction, which takes place at least six months later, is not the last. In about 4-5 years, when the building has finally settled down, it will be necessary to treat the seams again. You can follow the following sequence:
- We clean the seams from debris and material that has come out or worn out. You can use a vacuum cleaner to make the task easier.
- Caulking needs to be done one by one, not one by one. Those. You need to move around the circumference of each row. This is important so that distortion does not occur and the building is not damaged.
- You should start with outside, and then go inside the building.
- You need to unwind the tape. Its length should be 15–20 cm greater than the length of the wall. This is important, because during the compaction process folds are formed, which will be used for this reserve.
- Now it is important to carefully tuck one of the edges of the tape into the gap to secure it.
- Next, using a caulk and a hammer, we make a compaction. To do this, we lift the hanging end, tuck it in and tamp it down. This operation must be completed in several passes. You shouldn’t try to hammer everything in at once, as this can lead to misalignment faster and the sealing itself will be worse. When twisted several times, a seam is formed in the form of a rope, which is dense enough to not allow air from the street to pass through.
- We repeat the operation with inside.
- We move from the lower (flashing) crown to the upper one. Perhaps in the upper part it will be enough to simply tuck the material in without special effort so as not to interfere with further shrinkage.
You need to be careful not to overdo the layering. During caulking, the frame is raised. If you make the backing too thick, it can cause the lift to exceed the size of one log. The consequence may be that the dowels will not hold up and the beams will fall out.
Insulation with sealant is much easier. To do this, purchase a special lace of a suitable diameter. It is usually made from synthetic materials. It fits effortlessly into the seam to cover the gap. After this, mastic is applied. Its layer should be 5 mm wide and 10 mm high. After application, the composition is sprayed with impregnation, after which it is leveled with a small spatula. In the first few days you will have to curtain the seams on the sunny side, because... usually the manufacturer advises to avoid contact with direct sun rays until completely dry.
The sealant is also used after application natural materials. It helps protect the seal from pests and animals. Inside the house, instead of sealant, you can use twine of sufficient diameter to decorate caulked joints.
Usually, self-sealing a log house does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require great skills. The only thing you need is patience, because it will take a lot of time.
Video
This video shows the process of caulking with acrylic sealants:
Modern construction is receiving increasingly high-quality materials and technologies. Allowing them to be applied not only to stone and monolithic structures, but also used in the usual form of log houses. This gives options for more time for their operation, as well as high-quality rotting and destruction of wood. A separate point can be noted such a process as caulking, which allows you to ensure the tightness of the entire structure being created and additional process protection against the penetration of harmful insects and fungi.
In the process of caulking houses made of logs, it is important to choose not only the material and tools, but also to understand the technology of each stage. At the same time, it is practical to combine practical nuances and rules with modern solutions for each of the structures being built.
The complex of work on caulking a log house must be carried out in two stages, combining individual criteria and sequence. This should be work that will allow rough caulking to be carried out during the construction of walls and partitions. And the process of final caulking of the cracks between the logs after the construction of the entire building.
When implementing the first method, installation is carried out lower crown logs, after which the insulation layer is laid out, with a uniform overhang and filling of the space for connecting the subsequent crown of logs. After which a new crown is laid. This is done from the very bottom of the structure being built to last crown walls After that, the hanging ends of the insulation are driven into the cracks between the logs.
Rough caulking option
In case of using the second method, the process starts after all installation work and the arrangement of the last crown. This method allows you to carry out parallel work on installing the roof and installing the roofing carpet, performing the process of caulking inside and outside the house. It is important to note here that each of the crowns must be filled with insulation on both sides at the same time, excluding curvature and destruction of the integrity of the structures.
The “log caulk” produced is performed by driving insulation between each of the crowns, starting from the bottom of the structure, gradually moving to the upper elements. This method is best performed using tape material, placing it at the junction of two crowns and pushing it tightly inside the structure. In this case, there is a need to leave the edges hanging down by 5-7 centimeters, for subsequent twisting into rollers and filling the resulting space between the logs.
After the first stage of caulking, there is a need to carry out additional filling of the cracks. This is carried out 2-3 years after the construction of the house. The work should also be done from the bottom up, filling all the seams along the perimeter of the building from the inside and outside of the walls.
Tool used when caulking a log house
The right tool for filling the seams between the crowns of logs will simplify this process. Combining practicality and the ability to use modern materials and technology. To do this, you need to choose a high-quality and practical tool, the list of which should include:
- a flat blade made of wood or metal, 5-6 mm thick and a blade width of up to 100 mm; used for sealing seams and cracks between crowns;
- a flat chisel, with a working blade width of 5-6 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm, made on a metal basis; used to compact the insulation layer and the laid material;
- wooden caulk with a triangular blade longitudinal groove, width 1709 mm and thickness from 5 to 7 mm; allows you to form rollers to finally fill the gaps between logs;
- metal wedges, with a blade width from 20 to 35 mm; necessary for widening cracks during compaction and laying of material;
- wooden hammer, mallet; used for driving sealant into the seams between crowns.
Caulking tools
The materials used for caulking, the advantages and disadvantages of each of them
Forming correct process sealing seams between the crowns of logs, it is important not only to understand “how to caulk a log house”, and to apply better quality material. This should be a formula that will combine durability and practicality in each individual case and on the selected area of the house structure.
A special roll material based on flax and jute is used as inter-crown insulation. It is jute that allows the logs to fit more tightly and create the required conditions for thermal insulation of the entire wall structure. This caulking material is placed in the groove below the underlying crown and secured around the entire perimeter using a construction stapler. Also, due to this type of material, reliable sound insulation is ensured inside the entire building, in partitions and external walls.
Materials for caulking
Using jute also has its disadvantages. It is susceptible to rotting and its service life is significantly limited, unlike the use of flax and moss.
A more common and long-used material for caulking a log house is the usual moss. There are two types of moss, red and white, it is used depending on its growth in the region where it is found. In this case, the resulting caulking of a log house with your own hands is considered more environmentally friendly and combines only natural materials and raw materials, without the use of machine processing of the material and preparing it for use for sealing seams.
But a significant disadvantage of using moss is the difficulty of finding building materials on the market in different regions. Which benefits the choice of the usual flax.
Step-by-step technology and process of work on caulking a log house
Today, there are several technologies that allow high-quality sealing and caulking of seams and cracks between the crowns of logs. Each of them uses individual materials and tools.
Stretched caulk
The combination of practicality and consistency of this technology allows you to use both jute and regular moss. This technology allows you to distribute the material evenly along the entire length and perimeter of the building being constructed at the stage of installation of each of the crowns of logs. At the same time, this option of work is considered more productive, since it does not require the additional use of tools, but only a high-quality layout of the material for caulking. Of course, each of the craftsmen has his own method and the amount of material placed in the existing groove between the logs, but there is also a limitation - the material should hang 5-7 cm on both sides of the log. This is the case when using moss. And in the case of using strip material, it should fit snugly around the entire perimeter of the logs and have an overlap of 5 cm with the previous roll being spread.
It is also worth noting that this sealing is carried out in two stages, this is at the time of installation of the walls and with the subsequent driving in of the remaining material after the construction of the walls.
Caulking set
When implementing this technology, it will be important to understand that if there are wider seams and gaps between the crowns, then you cannot do without the use of jute strands. This method will allow you to practically and efficiently fill the existing space, evenly and gradually placing the material into the existing grooves.
Along each of the crowns, gaps can be additionally embroidered, parallel to both sides of the walls, followed by filling with jute. After which the seams can remain open or where they can be additionally sealed decorative plaster on wood.
Sealing knots and joints in corners
When carrying out the process of sealing corner elements or joining walls, it is important to fill each section in parallel, using the same sealant as when sealing straight sections of walls. But here it is important to frame the corners correctly and beautifully, without leaving uneven edges or excess material, since the load in these areas is much greater than on straight lines along the perimeter of the walls. It is necessary to hammer the applicable material as tightly as possible to prevent it from scattering and additional compaction under the mass of wood.
Cost and price range for the work performed on caulking a log house
The cost for the work performed can vary from 60 to 150 rubles. Prices for caulk are calculated per 1 linear meter. At the same time, each of the craftsmen takes into account not only the practicality of the material used, but also the technology being implemented, depending on the resulting seam between the logs or the customer’s desire for the materials used.
The height of the structure is also taken into account, which will require additional time to install the scaffolding and scaffolding. The price increases starting from a building height of 1.2 - 1.5 meters. It is calculated taking into account the number of crowns up to a given height from the foundation of the building. At the same time, it is worth taking into account the number of nodes and indirect sections of walls that are present in each individual project. This also increases the cost of work. But each region of Russia has its own gradation, taking into account the demand for this type of construction and the availability of appropriate material for caulking.
| City | Price |
| Moscow | from 70 to 100 rub. |
| Saint Petersburg | from 70 to 100 rub. |
| Kazan | from 70 to 90 rub. |
| Rostov-on-Don | from 90 to 120 rub. |
| Krasnodar | from 60 to 100 rub. |
What is caulk? Essentially, this is the process of compacting a log house fibrous materials– moss, tow and others; it can be used thermal insulation material as inter-crown insulation – flax jute fiber, polyurethane foam, For example. But caulking correctly is not so easy - you will learn about all the intricacies and features of this process from this article. So, how to caulk a log house - with moss, tow, tape and sealants.
Technology for getting the job done right
Once the frame is laid, it is still impossible to caulk it - after all, shrinkage lies ahead. One can understand, of course, the desire of those building a bathhouse to make money, which is why they offer to caulk everything right there, but this needs to be done only after at least six months.
So, as soon as the log house has shrunk, you can begin to caulk it - from the bottom up, from the very bottom crown. This should be done this way: caulk one seam, strictly along the perimeter of the entire log house - outside, then inside. It is impossible to caulk each wall separately - otherwise the log house will warp over time. The same applies to separate caulking of the external and internal sides - because of this, a dangerous vertical deviation of the walls can easily occur.
Caulking is a careful, fussy job. At the same time, the master is obliged to constantly monitor the log house so that there are no distortions in the walls. And it’s bad if, after caulking, the entire log house rises up a whole crown - this will invariably lead to logs falling out of the dowels or locks, and therefore it is better not to allow this.
Which material should you prefer?
So, here are the most common materials for caulking a log bath:
Moss - like the good old days
Moss - environmentally friendly pure material, which has medicinal properties. It resists temperature changes and drying well, absorbs moisture, but does not rot. And most importantly, it has antimicrobial and tonic properties, and at the same time lasts quite a long time.
This material for caulking has been used since ancient times. Today it cannot be called the best, but many bathhouse owners use only it during construction.
So, when laying, you can only use highly moistened moss - then after drying the log house, it will turn into a homogeneous dense mass that will fill all the cavities and cracks. Therefore, you won’t have to caulk the bathhouse anymore. However experienced builders it is not recommended to give special meaning historical experience of its use - such finishing is still quite expensive.
Tow - not everything is so smooth
Caulking tow is the most difficult. As the log house dries out, it will gradually gain moisture and eventually rot, turning into dust. And then you will have to clean out this insulation, caulk everything again and tightly fill the empty cavities - and this will take a lot of effort and time.
Sealants - modern technologies
Sealants for log baths are much more expensive than tow, but they also have their own undeniable advantages. Sealants as a means of caulking are suitable if the log house is rounded, or well-cut from an ordinary log, and the groove in it is semicircular. And if there is jute fabric between the logs. In this case, you can really get by with just one sealant. But, if the log house was made using a chainsaw, and the groove in it is triangular in shape, then it is already necessary to fill the void, i.e. caulk for real.
If you use a sealant with tow, then everything should happen according to this scheme: the bathhouse is caulked with tow twice, and after it completely shrinks, the seams are sealed. And in order to save sealant, it is advisable to lay a cord of insulation in the grooves.
And for the seams different widths – different types sealant. But the seams turn out light and neat. And there is no longer any risk of subsequent caulking.
Caulk with tape insulation
One of the most simple ways caulking – caulking with tape. There is no need to cut it into strips, which makes the whole process much easier. And you need to do it like this:
- Step 1. First you need to approach one of the ends of the log house, place the end of the tape on the ground, and, unwinding it, gradually move away to the other end. There is no need to cut the tape - it is only important that it does not twist and runs in a strip. And most importantly, the tape should not be pulled, it should go slightly relaxed.
- Step 2. Returning to the beginning of the tape, you need to lift its end and start tucking it right from the end between the crowns - with the tool that was selected depending on the existing gaps. As soon as it has already been passed to the end, you need to leave a margin of 10-20 cm - and only then can the tape be cut, and only with well-sharpened scissors.
- Step 3. At this stage, you can already caulk the tape. But only a little bit - otherwise it will go into folds. Moreover, you need to caulk it not in one stage, but in several - until the tape completely disappears in the logs, and the reserve that was initially left will also disappear. As for the process itself, the tape should be pushed in diagonally.
- Step 4. Now you need to repeat everything - between the same crowns. Oddly enough, two or three tapes will easily fit there, depending on their density. Those. The amount of insulation caulking itself requires at least four times what was originally used during installation - and this is only when caulking outside, whereas according to all the rules, the same should be done inside.
So, if the insulation padding has become dense, like wood, the caulking was successful. By the way, craftsmen advise taking jute of at least 10 mm – and the thicker it is, the better.
But today a Chinese instrument is considered a completely worthy alternative, which is not expensive and is quite acceptable in quality.
By the way, if you use a hard tool for caulking, you cannot avoid chips and dents - after all, it will slide off. Soft caulk is more difficult to use, but you can make it right on the spot, with your own hands. Made today and wooden caulking with curved edges, which penetrate deep into the seam quite easily, but they require skill to use.
In general, everything is within the power of a Russian person!
Log houses made of rounded logs are in great demand. These building materials retain heat well in the room, have a pleasant appearance, and are environmentally friendly, created from natural material - wood. Thanks to the perfectly even shape of rounded logs, many believe that there is no need to worry about insulating a house made from them. In fact, this is not so, because it is impossible to lay the crowns on top of each other so that there are no gaps between them. Even if they are minor gaps, they will appear; later, after the house shrinks, they will become even larger, and heat will escape through them. It is necessary to insulate cracks using insulating materials immediately during construction and afterwards using caulk.
The process of caulking is the driving of insulating material into the inter-crown cracks. This must be done several times:
- immediately after construction;
- a year or 1.5 after the house shrinks;
- 5 years after construction.
For houses made of rounded logs, one caulk, made after the log shrinkage, is sufficient. This process well insulates the seams between the logs, prevents the penetration of cold into the room, the ingress of moisture and freezing of the roof joints. The main thing is to properly insulate the house and use only high-quality insulation materials.
Materials for caulking
Materials for insulation wooden houses by means of caulking has many. All of them can be divided into two main types:
- Artificial insulation. Made from mineral, synthetic components.
- Natural interventional insulation. They are made from natural materials, plant fibers.
TO artificial materials relate:
- Mineral wool, glass wool and other fibrous mineral wool insulation. They are environmentally friendly, but can still lead to the development of allergic reactions in residents. They provide good insulation and prevent rodents from growing in them. But these insulation materials are not hygroscopic and even to be afraid of moisture, it worsens their basic characteristics.
- Foamed polyethylene and other closed-cell insulation materials. Materials made from it insulate the inter-crown seam well. They keep the cold out and keep the heat out. But at the same time they don't breathe. They can be compared with plastic bag, creating Greenhouse effect in the crown joint, this can lead to damage to the wooden material and its rotting.
- Foam rubber and other open-cell insulation materials. These insulation materials are not able to protect the crown joint from freezing. Despite the fact that air and moisture are able to penetrate into the small pores of the material, under the weight of the upper crowns of the log house they are compressed, and the result is a non-breathable, homogeneous mass of insulation.
Many artificial insulation materials cope well with their thermal insulation tasks. But it is advisable to use them for structures built from bricks, concrete, cinder blocks and other minerals building materials. These insulation materials are not suitable for wood; they will shorten its service life, worsening its strength characteristics.
Natural interventional insulation materials include:
- Moss. This is the most best insulation. It was used for caulking hundreds of years ago. It does an excellent job of insulating a home. It has good hygroscopicity, capable of absorbing moisture more than 20 times the volume own size. The structure of moss fibers contains lignin, which prevents rotting and damage to the insulating material and the logs themselves. It has bactericidal properties and will destroy bacteria in the air in the room.
- Jute. Its properties resemble moss, but it is easier to work with. The density of jute is good and does not allow heat or cold to pass through. This material breathes and is hygroscopic. Appearance Also different, jute has a golden color similar to the shade of wood. In interventional seams it looks beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.
- Linen. It's more cheap material, but its properties are worse. He is afraid of constant contact with moisture, which can lead to rotting. The shade of this material is gray. The density is not great, linen feels softer to the touch. It is advisable to use this insulating material for insulating houses built from dry wood; it is perfect for laminated veneer lumber.
- Lnovatin. Good insulation made from jute and flax. These two materials together create excellent insulation, which includes their positive traits. Flax wool is resistant to external influences, with good density and the ability to restore its size. If the wooden material dries out, this insulation fills all the voids in the inter-crown space of the rounded log.
The caulking process is not easy. It’s better not to do it alone. The insulation material must begin to be hammered in from the lower inter-crown seams and gradually rise higher. Caulking needs to be done around the entire perimeter of the house at once, and not to first completely insulate one wall and then move on to another, otherwise the walls may squint or even slide off the fastening element, for example, a dowel.
For caulking wooden house it is best to use from rounded logs natural materials. They complement the wooden material, improving rather than degrading its characteristics. If you have experience working with insulating materials not available, and caulking can’t be handled, can be used alternative method insulation – sealing.
Sealing of inter-crown seams
Sealing seams is easier and faster than caulking using sealants. It is easier to work with them than with insulating inter-crown materials. Neomid's sealed formulations have proven themselves well: Word Professional and Word Professional plus. These products are very similar to each other, but only the second sealant is more elastic and can be applied to surfaces with a large angle of inclination. Otherwise they are no different.
Neomid sealants have good adhesion and adhere perfectly to wooden material and excellent elasticity. Sealed compounds are applied using a construction gun. The sealed seam is not afraid of weathering, moisture, does not turn yellow under the influence of sunlight, and mold does not form on it.
Even if all stages of construction wooden structure done professionally, this does not guarantee that there will be no drafts in the house. Firstly, the used workpieces (timber, log), characterized by a large length, cannot be adjusted to one another with pinpoint precision. Secondly, wood is constantly in the process of deformation (under the influence of moisture, temperature, and also due to natural shrinkage).
Even inter-crown insulation cannot eliminate the problem of emerging cracks and gaps; only caulking, as a way of additional thermal insulation of the log house. It is quite doable with your own hands if you know how to do it and what you may need during the work.
Caulking is not a one-time event. For the first time, it is carried out either immediately after the completion of construction, or in parallel with the construction of the log house. Secondary - on next year or after 2 - 3, depending on local specifics (climate in the region; location of the building on the territory; its protection from the winds; grade of wood used, which determines the intensity of its shrinkage and a number of other factors). The third time - after the final removal of moisture from the material. As a rule, 5 years are allotted for this. But this does not exclude the need for unplanned caulking, as cracks form in certain areas.
Any material that can be used to seal the gap is not suitable for these purposes. Its choice is determined by the following criteria:
- optimal combination of elasticity and density;
- low thermal conductivity;
- non-susceptibility to destruction by microorganisms;
- hygroscopicity, approximately identical to this indicator of wood. That is, the caulking material must be characterized by the ability to equally absorb moisture and release it;
- "ecological cleanliness";
- resistance to external negative factors. That is, the caulk should not be deformed, much less destroyed under the influence of the atmosphere (changes in humidity, temperature, and their limit values).
When insulating a log house, you must adhere to a certain scheme. Caulking is done in levels along the perimeter of the building. It starts from the bottom crown, and only after high-quality sealing of the 1st row spacing should you begin to process the 2nd. Failure to follow this recommendation leads to the fact that under certain conditions there is a risk of the log frame warping.
The specifics of caulking of timber and log buildings are somewhat different. The picture explains this well.
Caulking is always carried out before any work on finishing (cladding) the building begins. When insulating, the material is forced into the gaps with force, which leads to the “lifting” of the entire frame. In total terms for one-story house- approximately 10 cm.
Cannot be used when caulking different materials. The reason is differences in hygroscopicity, which determines the degree of deformation when absorbing liquid. It is also not recommended to caulk only on one or two sides. Failure to comply with these requirements leads to distortion of the structure.
If this happens, it is not critical. You can correct the distortion with additional caulk. The main thing is to correctly determine the area where secondary installation of insulation will eliminate this defect.
There are quite a lot of them. You don’t need to be an expert in the field of construction to understand that natural materials are the best.
Moss
It practically has only advantages. You don’t have to purchase it, but assemble and prepare it yourself, although this option is not available to everyone. “Ecological cleanliness” is a priori beyond doubt. Another significant advantage is that moss has antibacterial properties. Consequently, in places where cracks are sealed, it provides high-quality protection of lumber from fungi and mold. Experts note only one drawback - high cost purchased moss.
Tow
It’s the opposite – the cost is low, but it’s difficult to work with this material, and it’s not particularly durable. Firstly, tow is fibrous in structure, and therefore absorbs moisture very actively. And she gradually moves onto the tree. This, in turn, complicates the removal of rotted insulation from the gaps, especially if the compaction was done to a great depth (which is typical for log cabins). Another disadvantage is that moths are very fond of tow, which gradually spreads throughout the house. And the quality of thermal insulation quickly decreases when the layer is damaged.
Lnovatin
Enough the new kind insulation. It is a tape obtained by pressing crushed flax. The material is good (heat-saving indicators are high, does not absorb moisture and is not subject to rotting), but is only suitable for sealing large cracks.
Jute
The main characteristics are identical to flax wool. The advantage is the variety of assortment. Jute is produced in ribbons or cords, so this material can be considered universal. High price- This is the only drawback of the product.
Sealing compounds
Categorized into three groups, but general characteristics- ease of insulation of the log house. The use of these heat insulators does not require professional skills; In addition, the time savings are quite noticeable.
Paste in tubes. It is easy to match the color of the wood, so when filling small gaps it is the best option caulking. If necessary, this place is varnished.
Briquettes. Their use requires a special gun. Convenience in the variety of attachments, which allows you to process cracks both large and relatively small.
Cords, harnesses made of polyethylene foam. They are pressed into the gap using special devices. It is advisable to use for sealing long gaps.
Tools
Since caulking is carried out on various areas, differing in the parameters of the slots, and therefore in the complexity of the operations, for such work it is advisable to use a set (set) of devices. It will not be possible to insulate a log house with just one. The tool will not be needed only if soft (paste-like) sealants are used.
A correctly selected tool will not only optimize work in various areas, but also expand (if necessary) the gap and insulate a log site with complex geometry. Therefore, you should not limit yourself to only the devices shown in the figures.
Basic caulking technologies
Stretch
Usually, this method implemented in areas characterized by a large extent. Accordingly, the material is selected - cords, tapes, harnesses. The meaning of the operation is to uniformly push the insulation into the gap with a gradual displacement work surface tool sideways. The peculiarity is that a small part of the material remains outside the frame. On last stage the excess is tucked in (that is, a kind of roller is formed) and forcefully driven into the gap. This ensures its complete sealing.
Included in the set
This technology is suitable for large gaps, since in this case a narrow tape (cord) cannot provide high-quality insulation. Or in difficult areas, when the width of the gap changes many times. The material is disassembled into individual strands; they are twisted (into balls, loops) and driven into the gap. The work is more painstaking, requiring time and accuracy.
Sometimes the edges interventional insulation several protrude from the frame. Experienced craftsmen do exactly this during the installation of the structure, taking into account its subsequent shrinkage. In this case, all that remains is to tuck in the excess and push it into the gap.
In principle, there is nothing complicated about caulking a log house. You just need to correctly assess the specifics of the work, the parameters of the cracks and choose the right material and the optimal method of thermal insulation.