One of the most important advantages of cast iron baths is their durability. Such plumbing can serve faithfully for several decades, maintaining specifications. However, over time, the bath may lose its original whiteness.
Agree, not everyone is ready to get rid of high-quality cast iron in favor of plastic or steel counterparts. Alternative solution– restoration of a bathtub with liquid acrylic at home. The work is simple, but requires compliance with some nuances.
We will tell you how to choose high-quality acrylic for a bathtub, identify manufacturers you can trust, and also describe in detail the sequence of updating old plumbing fixtures. The information provided will help home craftsmen restore the former gloss of the coating and extend the service life of the font.
First, let's understand the terms. The domestic market for acrylic products designed to restore the bowl of a well-used bathtub is full of brands. "Plastol", "Yarli", "Standard", "Stakryl", Finnacryl and even "Eco-enamel"- there are many names.
All enamels are two-component, approximately similar in price - 1400-1500 rubles. for a 3.4 kg jar, which is enough to cover a one and a half meter container with acrylic.
Everyone paint and varnish materials“liquid acrylic” group, incl. Each brand listed above carries out bathtub restoration. The walls of the sanitary bowl are poured with two-component acrylic, which polymerizes and hardens, turning into a smooth and durable coating within a day.
The self-leveling bath is not a commercial product, but a painting technology. It consists of pouring a new paint coating over the existing worn-out layer of paint. Manufacturers are developing their own acrylic-enamel series of restoration materials for bathtubs, the formulas of which are carefully hidden from competing enterprises.
Among masters who restore bathtub containers and their clients, liquid acrylic of any brand is usually called glass acrylic. Although “Stakril” is a brand of the St. Petersburg enterprise “Ekolor”, popular rumor assigns the name of its brand to all liquid acrylic compositions.
The usual kit with liquid acrylic comes with a bottle of hardener. Some manufacturers offer
set of three products – liquid acrylic, hardener and degreaser
The reason is simple: "Stakryl" was the first widely advertised polymer material for bathroom restoration, which is why it has become a household name for liquid acrylics in general. The technically correct name for acrylic-based bath paints is “self-leveling acrylic.”
Therefore, when choosing an acrylic bathroom paint, you need to name a specific brand of product, and not “you have acrylic.”
Now about the quality. Manufacturers of bulk acrylics LLC "Ekolor" (brand "Stakril"), LLC "Plastol", LLC "Ekovanna" and CJSC NPK "YarLi" (brand "Yarli") are the largest enterprises in Russia.
It is their products that are recognized as the highest quality on the domestic market. For self-repair enamel coating bathroom, you should choose one of the brands mentioned.
In addition to having their own technical laboratories, many years of experience in the production and distribution of products throughout Russia, the products of all four listed manufacturers of self-leveling acrylic have one more advantage - they are trying to imitate it.
On the one hand, this is a plus, because it makes no sense to produce counterfeits under a bad brand and product. However, there is also an obvious disadvantage - the likelihood of purchasing a low-quality product.
The manufacturing company of Stakril has not changed the design of its packaging for many years. Therefore, any other colors on
acrylic containers mean only one thing - fake
Fake poured acrylic
There are more and more homeowners interested in restoring bathtub enamel every year. Following the growing demand, manufacturers of self-leveling acrylic are expanding production and improving a series of acrylic enamels for plumbing equipment. But the most strive to make money on this paintwork different types"entrepreneurs"
First type: small companies, intending to occupy a niche in the local market. Before reaching consumers with liquid acrylic of their production, they buy the products large companies wholesale, bottled in their own containers and sold under their own brand.
Having attracted buyers to the “new product” after several months of sales, such companies begin to bottle not other people’s products, but their own. Without sufficient funds and equipment, these companies are developing acrylic technologies with “ optimal characteristics", using raw materials from dubious suppliers.
Second type: similar enterprises also purchase large quantities of liquid acrylic with hardener from famous manufacturers, but only in the original container with a label.
Next, each container is opened, a portion of the product is poured out and the solvent is added. Diluted acrylic is taken to the market and sold under the guise of the original product.
If liquid acrylic is diluted with a solvent, its performance characteristics will sharply decrease. This coating does not adhere well to the bathtub; it is too liquid and brittle. After a short period of time, the painted bathtub turns yellow and the enamel peels off. Please note that liquid acrylic cannot be diluted with anything other than the included hardener.
This counterfeit can be easily recognized by the incorrect color of the label and the low-quality plastic from which its container is made. Similar “products” regularly appear in different regions Russia
Third type: a small enterprise purchases several containers of liquid acrylic famous brands, tries to copy them. Having developed a very approximate formula and technological process, this company purchases the cheapest possible raw materials. The production of products with bright labels and names begins.
The manufacturer does not make any attempts to popularize a specific product brand, because The product is of low quality and soon there will be no buyers for it. However, the company often changes the shape of the containers and the name of the product, thereby restarting its sales again and again. Such liquid acrylic cannot be called high-quality, only cheap.
Nikolay Fedorenko
Improving the formula, improving technological process production of liquid acrylic its largest domestic producers studied for over five to eight years each. Only their products can last as long as possible, are odorless and resistant to yellowing. Therefore, it is necessary to choose enamels from large enterprises for bath repairs.
Nikolay Fedorenko Expert in the field of arrangement sewer systems and water supply systems
In regional markets of Russia, counterfeits of acrylic enamels most often appear "Stakryl", "Ekovanna" And "Plastol". To interfere with imitators, manufacturers of these brands periodically change the color design and shape of cans with liquid acrylic and a hardener.
You can find out the actual type of the brand you are interested in by visiting the manufacturer’s website and studying the product description page.
However, the goods are distributed differently in different regions - some batches are sold out for months. Within the factory warranty period and subject to proper storage procedures, packaged liquid acrylic is completely suitable for use.
Let's assume that you are offered a brand product, say, "Plastol" - the expiration date is fine, but the bucket is designed in an outdated design of the manufacturer. The seller explains: the batch of acrylic arrived before the Plastol company changed the design of the cans, but otherwise the product is original.
Inspect the bucket of acrylic and the bottle of hardener:
- Marking on the lid. Plastol prints the batch number on the lids of the cans using laser lithography. Manufacturers of “Ekovanna” and “Stakril” mark the lids with adhesive labels with the batch number printed on them. There should be no other labels on the lids.
- Cap color. Be sure to make sure that the color of the caps on the jar and bottle matches the image of the product on the manufacturer’s website.
- Brand logo. Labels on the sides of cans and bottles must contain the actual manufacturer's logo;
- The correctness of the sticker. Labels on the sides of acrylic cans and on solvent bottles are applied by the original manufacturer using in-line machine adhesive. Distortions and crumpled areas mean that the label was affixed by hand and is a fake;
- Integrity of the filling. The plastic fuse on the caps of the bottle with hardener and the jar of liquid acrylic must be intact (not broken).
The caps of bottles containing liquid hardener are usually signed with a marker when releasing a batch - this is normal. There is not enough space on the bottle cap to fully print or place a label.
Additional information about the types of self-leveling acrylic, as well as tips for choosing restoration enamel, are given in the articles:
Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration
Restoring the enamel coating of a bathtub bowl yourself will save you an average of 1,200-1,700 rubles (that’s what craftsmen charge). However, you need to evaluate your skills before starting work: minimum experience in assembling plumbing fixtures and performing painting works extremely necessary.
The process of preparing the bath and casting a new coating requires care, otherwise long-term quality cannot be achieved.
Materials and tools used
So, you have purchased a sufficient amount of liquid acrylic and hardener. Please note: volume required acrylic enamel, which will be enough to decorate your bathroom. Soviet-made models have a length of 1400-1700 mm, European products are made with maximum length at 1800 mm.
All required tools and protective equipment must be prepared before starting work on the “fill bath”.
Carefully evaluate your readiness for work. At the stripping stage, stopping work is still permissible, but after
You can’t stop mixing acrylic with hardener
Manufacturers indicate on containers with liquid acrylic the length of the bath for which the calibrated volume of material is calculated. Measure the length of the bowl along its center, from the edge of one side to the edge of the other. If your object of work is longer than the size indicated on the jar of acrylic, you need to buy more material. It is important.
For enameling using the “fill bath” technology, the following tools and materials are needed:
- Kneading device. When manually mixing acrylic with hardener and color, you will need a wooden or plastic spatula - blade width 40-60 mm, handle length 500-600 mm. Mixing with a drill and mixer should not be done, only by hand.
- Sandpaper- 5 pieces. (230*280 mm). You need sandpaper grade P60 (according to ISO-6344) or 25-H (according to GOST 3647-80) for tissue based, waterproof.
- Solvent No. 646 or 647. It will be required to degrease the surface of the bathtub bowl after sanding and washing it.
- Putty knife– width 100 mm. A metal spatula will do, but only a new one, without dirt or rusty streaks.
- Adhesive tape– tape, 50 mm wide. You will need two types of tape - masking tape (on paper) and fastening tape (on film).
- Wallpaper knife. Necessary for cutting tape and trimming dried acrylic streaks from the bathroom drain hole before reinstalling the drain and overflow.
- Screwdrivers- straight and cross to remove the drain-overflow siphon. A gas wrench may also be required;
- Stool. It is much more convenient to mix acrylic with a hardener and put the prepared enamel into a container for application if you place a bucket of liquid acrylic on a stool.
In principle, to prepare the walls and bottom of the bathtub for casting with acrylic, manual processing is sufficient. sandpaper. But only if it has not been painted with anything before, i.e. Factory enamel on the surface. Otherwise, you will need to clean it with a drill or grinder.
To remove secondary enamel, the drill needs a Velcro attachment and sanding wheels of grade P40 (or 40-H), for an angle grinder - grinding wheels similar brand.
Required protective equipment:
- Work clothes– trousers, long sleeve shirt or jacket. Drops of acrylic on the skin are not dangerous, but once they dry, they are quite difficult to remove.
- Headdress- at least a headscarf. Hair should not get on the enamel coating during the casting process.
- Respirator– at least a “petal”. Cleaning the bathtub will cause a strong release of dust; you should not breathe such air.
- Disposable latex gloves. Hands must be protected from contact with liquid acrylic.
You will need newspaper sheets or PVC film to cover and hang the surfaces around the restored plumbing fixtures. We remind you: drops of cured acrylic spilled during the restoration process are very difficult to remove.
Preparing the bathroom
Collect and remove items usually found in this room: toothbrushes, towels, laundry basket, other cosmetic and hygiene items. The shower curtain should be removed, and if possible, the curtain bar should also be removed.
It should be noted that bowls with cracks cannot be restored. Therefore, you will have to install it.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Enameling a bowl with acrylic that was previously painted with another enamel and requires puttying of individual areas:
Video instructions for restoring the finishing of a bathtub with liquid acrylic from the manufacturer of restoration compositions "Plastol":
The following video describes the process of installing the trim, which was dismantled before applying acrylic enamel:
Following the instructions in the article, you will restore the enamel coating of the bathtub yourself. The updated container will last as long as it was carefully repaired.
Please note that self-leveling acrylic finishes require careful cleaning. You cannot use abrasive products, only liquid ones; substances containing a solvent are also not suitable.
Share with readers your experience of restoring an old cast iron bath. Please leave comments on the article, ask questions that interest you, participate in discussions and attach photos of your updated plumbing. The feedback form is located below.
Over time, even the most expensive and quality bath falls into disrepair. The enamel loses its shine, scratches appear on it, the thickness of the protective layer is catastrophically reduced, bare metal appears, and this is rust with all the ensuing consequences.
It seems that there is only one way out - replacing the bowl, but there is no need to rush, first you should consider the repair option. A simple paint job will help restore the attractiveness appearance, and restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic or installing a liner will allow you to get a practically new product.
Restoration or replacement
Replacing a bathtub is an expensive and troublesome task. Just ask about the cost of a new bowl, add transportation costs, which is especially important for remote parts of the country, and the amount will be considerable. Also, do not forget that the installation of a new bathtub is preceded by the dismantling of the old one, and this is completely fraught full renovation bathroom.
A bowl that has lost its luster is not a reason for despondency. Dismantling and replacement can be postponed, and for several years at once, you just need to carry out its restoration. This sounds a little intimidating, but in fact, anyone can do the job; of course, you will have to work hard to achieve the desired result.
It is up to the owners to decide whether to restore the bathtub or buy a new one; however, it is worth weighing all the positive and negative aspects of restoration and only then making a decision.
The advantages are clear, they consist in savings and give a chance to delay repairs. Now about the cons:
- the new coating will not be as durable as the factory one;
- difficult to achieve ideal surface, in some places the old coating may show through;
- enamel tends to change color when exposed to cleaning agents.
All these are serious shortcomings, but they are easy to deal with, just be careful with the inner surface of the bowl, do not use strong dyes inside it (for example, hair dye), and avoid dropping heavy and sharp objects.
Restoration methods
Currently, there are three main methods of restoring the inner surface of a bathtub. The oldest of them is enamel coating; in fact, this is ordinary painting using special coloring compounds.
This method has a number of significant advantages:
- cheapness and availability of the material;
- simplicity of work, painting can be done independently;
- no bowl dismantling required.
The work will not take much time, in most cases the bathroom can be used within a week. True, with all this there are also significant drawbacks.
The coating will be sensitive to shock loads. Enameling will not hide surface imperfections, but will often emphasize them; over time, the coating will turn yellow. After such a restoration, the surface of the bathtub cannot be cleaned with abrasives.
The second option that is often used to update cast iron bathtubs is to use a liner. The essence of the method is simple - inside old bath glue an acrylic liner, in fact, another bathtub, the dimensions of which exactly correspond to the internal dimensions of the cast-iron bathtub.
Note! Usage acrylic liner guarantees ease of operation, strength and reliability of the updated surface, eliminating all the shortcomings of the old bathtub. This coating will not turn yellow over time.
The service life of the liner can be from 10 to 15 years, which is quite comparable to the service life of a new bowl. These are advantages, but everything is not so rosy, and there are some disadvantages. Such a restoration high price, and installing the liner will require partial dismantling of the plumbing. The method is not suitable for thin steel bath. The materials (liner and adhesives) are subject to high demands.
Another restoration method is acrylic coating, also called a “fill bath.” During renovation, liquid acrylic is poured inside the bowl, creating a new, impact-resistant surface. A special advantage of this method is the fact that at home you can create a coating with a thickness of 5 mm or more, thereby making a new acrylic bathtub on a cast iron base.
Preparing the bowl
All three restoration methods have significant differences, but they also have something in common - preparatory stage. To make the coating reliable and smooth, you need to remove the old enamel, level the surface and ensure maximum adhesion of the new coating to the metal.
You need to immediately prepare the tool:
- metal scraper and brush;
- solvent;
- several sheets of sandpaper;
- automotive putty;
- angle grinder and wheels for it;
- construction hairdryer
You will also need rags, old newspapers and masking tape. First of all, the enamel layer is removed. Sandpaper is suitable for this; it’s quick and easy to work with. grinder with nozzle. It is necessary to remove paint not only from the inner surface, but also from the sides.
After removing the old enamel, the bath is thoroughly washed and etched with a solution of oxalic acid. Having achieved the desired result, the acid is neutralized with baking soda.
The dry surface is carefully inspected for possible defects, deformations, and dents. If there are any, they are leveled using automotive putty, and after hardening, they are cleaned with sandpaper. Dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner.
The inner surface is degreased with a solvent. Disconnect the bath from the communications, unscrew the drain, replace it with a container to collect excess enamel or acrylic. The taps are wrapped in polyethylene to prevent accidental drops.
All that remains is to cover the wall at the side of the bathtub with masking tape, lay newspapers on the floor, and you can proceed directly to the restoration.
Sequence of actions when applying enamel
Restoring the enamel of an old bathtub is the most common restoration method. It should be noted that similar method You can update not only the bathtub bowl, but also any enameled sanitary ware (sinks, sinks, shower tray). Using enamel, you can completely replace the old coating or repair a small damaged area.
At any suitable dishes mix the enamel with the hardener, following the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Important! Immediately worry about ventilation and prepare a respirator, since most enamels have a pungent chemical odor.
A layer of paint is applied with a brush or roller. Immediately, before the enamel has dried, apply a second layer. The smudges are smeared with a brush, the bottom is repainted. If necessary, apply several more layers. After this, all that remains is to wait for the paint to completely harden, and after about a week the bathroom can be used.
It is not always necessary to completely reconstruct the bathtub; often it is necessary to close a small chip or smooth out a dent. In this case, you just need to clean the damaged area, degrease it, level it with regular automotive putty and paint over it with enamel. Consumables can be purchased individually or purchased as a bathtub renovation kit. In addition to paint, it includes sandpaper, putty and instructions.
Restoration using an acrylic liner
The method is distinguished by its simplicity of work and the time that will be spent on it - the restored bathroom can be used the very next day. It's really simple. First you need to buy the insert itself. All popular sizes can be found on sale, so there will be no problems with the choice. As in the previous method, before starting the restoration you need to prepare the bath. The cleaner the surface, the more securely the sealant will adhere, and the longer the bowl will last.
In addition to cleaning the inner surface, it is necessary to dismantle the trim elements. In the case of an old bathtub, you will most likely have to use a grinder. A grinder is necessary to remove the technological edge on the liner.
Advice! You can measure their parameters with a ruler, or you can simply install the liner in place and trace the contours of the holes with a pencil.
Following the manufacturer's instructions, fixing compounds are prepared and applied to the surface of the bowl. Insert the liner, press it into place, remove excess foam. Installation of piping pipes.
After this, you need to completely fill the bath with water, this is done so that the foam does not displace the light acrylic. Actually, the work is finished.
Restoration with poured acrylic
The option of covering the bathtub with acrylic is perhaps the best in the case of restoration. This method of restoring the surface is easy to work with and is significantly cheaper than installing a liner, however, to achieve the desired result you will have to try hard.
Liquid acrylic (stacryl) is a two-component mixture, therefore, you need to prepare it before starting work. The sequence of actions is described in the instructions; you just need to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
From the container in which the composition was mixed, you need to take a little into a glass and slowly pour the acrylic onto the upper edge of the bath. The thick mixture will gradually flow down. After waiting until the liquid reaches the middle of the wall, the glass is slowly moved further, moving around the perimeter and covering all areas. Liquid must be added as needed.
Having walked around the bathtub in a circle, they begin to pour glass from the middle of the wall. You need to work carefully, don’t rush, otherwise the surface will turn out uneven and bubbles will appear. Also, don’t try to save money when restoring your bathtub. The excess composition will pour out into the drain and end up in the container underneath, but the surface will be even and smooth.
After the walls and bottom are completely filled, all you have to do is wait for the coating to harden, connect the communications, clean up the room, and you can take a bath.
Do-it-yourself restoration of an old bathtub will allow you to save a lot without limiting yourself. The right method plus a little work - and the bathtub is like new. A well-restored bowl will last for many years, allowing you to postpone expensive repairs until later.
The top layer of enamel on steel and cast iron bathtubs wears away over time. Unsightly stains, cracks, chips, and yellowness appear on the surface. Of course, you can throw away such a bathtub and install a new one in its place, but restoration will extend the life of your plumbing and save the family budget.
Restoration. Methods
Restoration can be carried out different methods, among which:
- application of two-component enamel. The two components are the hardener and the enamel itself. The mixture is applied to the surface like regular paint;
- Filling the bathtub with acrylic (glass). After sanding and thorough degreasing, the bathtub is filled with acrylic. After just 2 days, the updated plumbing is completely ready for use;
- installation of a “bath in a bath.” This method consists of installing an acrylic liner, completely identical old bath. The liner is attached with glue or foam and allows you to use the restored bathroom for a long time.
Preparing a bathtub for enameling or acrylic application
Although these methods have their own characteristics, the preparation procedure is completely identical. It is necessary to remove the layer of old enamel and achieve maximum adhesion of the future coating to cast iron/steel.
Find out what they are, and also check out the types and tips for choosing from our new article.
Need to prepare following materials and accessories:
- cleaning powder;
- solvent;
- fabric-based sandpaper (for example, P24);
- quick-hardening polyester automotive putty;
- polyethylene, newspapers and masking tape;
- vacuum cleaner (or wide soft brush);
- grinder + grinding wheels;
- clean, lint-free cloth;
- construction hair dryer;
- screwdriver
Step 1. Clean the entire surface of the bathtub with a brush and an abrasive agent (powder).
Step 2. Take sandpaper and clean the bathtub until risks from abrasive appear. There is no need to rinse off the cleaning agent when sanding. Instead of sandpaper, you can use an angle grinder with a special attachment. This will greatly simplify the work and speed up the preparation process.
Step 3. After sanding, thoroughly rinse off all crumbs and soap film. We etch the bath using oxalic acid. Neutralize the acid with soda.
Step 4. Fill the bath hot water to the sides. We wait about 10 minutes, open the drain to let the water drain, and then wipe the bathtub dry with a cloth. You can warm up the vessel construction hairdryer. This way, the moisture will quickly evaporate and the bathtub can be further prepared for restoration.
Step 5. Inspect the bathtub for major defects and potholes. We apply automotive putty, and after it dries, we sand it with fine sandpaper. Remove dust with a vacuum cleaner/soft brush, then thoroughly degrease the entire surface of the plumbing fixtures with a solvent and wipe with lint-free wipes.
Step 6. Unscrew the shower hose. We wrap the spout and taps in polyethylene so that drops of water do not fall into the bath during operation.
Step 7. Armed with a screwdriver, remove the grate and siphon under the bathtub. We place a container under the drain hole into which drops of acrylic or enamel will flow.
Strapping diagram. 1 - overflow pipe; 2 - a drain pipe; 3 - metal support wedge; 4 - floor siphon; 5- sewer bell; 6 - metal grounding strip
Step 8. Cover with masking tape all surfaces that are adjacent to the vessel being restored. Floor, standing nearby washing machine, cover the sink with polyethylene or old newspapers.
Let's begin the restoration process.
Applying enamel
You can enamell not only a bathtub, but also a shower tray made of steel and cast iron, a washbasin, kitchen sink. Both the entire surface of the plumbing fixtures and separate areas, if necessary.
This method of restoration is short-lived, but quite economical. It will serve you for another couple of years, after which you will again have to think about painting or replacing it.
Note! The enamel has a pungent chemical odor, so all work can only be performed in personal protective equipment for the respiratory system.
Step 1. Open the enamel and hardener. Pour them into a convenient bowl and mix with a mixer until smooth (see the exact proportions on the package).
Step 2. We begin to apply the enamel with a brush, making first horizontal and then vertical strokes. Carefully paint the entire bath.
Advice! To prevent bristles from coming out of your brush, soak it in water for one day!
Step 3. Without waiting for the first layer to dry, apply the second. Gently stretch out the smudges with a brush.
Step 4. Paint the bottom of the vessel again.
The bath will be ready for use in about 5 days. Until this point, it is advisable not to turn on the water and prevent dirt from getting on the painted surfaces.
Prices for bath enamel
Bath enamel
Restoration with glass acrylic or self-leveling bath
This two-component mixture is quite easy to apply, has no pungent odor and has increased strength characteristics. The glass spreads on its own, forming a monolithic, smooth film on the surface of the bathtub. At the same time, glass does not dry too quickly, which means that work can be done without haste and fuss.
Step 1. Mix the stacryl with a mixer in a convenient bowl.
Step 2. Add glass from a common container into a small glass and pour it onto the top edge of the bath. As soon as the stream reaches the middle of the wall, we begin to move the glass around the perimeter, periodically pouring the mixture into the glass.
Step 3. We repeat the process, starting to pour from the middle of the walls. There is no need to save the mixture; the excess will be poured into a container under the hole, and the coating will be even and smooth.
If bubbles form on the surface, they can be smoothed out with a plastic spatula or brush.
The polymerization process takes up to 4 days. Exact instructions for proportions and drying time are indicated on the glass packaging.
When the surface has completely hardened, you can remove the films, newspapers, tape, install a siphon (old or new, at the discretion of the owner) and use the bathroom restored with your own hands.
Video - Restoration of a bathtub using liquid acrylic using the “pouring” method
Prices for bulk acrylic
“Bath in bath” or acrylic liner
If you do not want to carry out hygiene procedures for several days using a basin or visiting a bathhouse, then the method of inserting an acrylic liner is ideal for you. The process of self-restoration in this way takes no more than three hours, and you can use the bathroom the next day.
In addition, the liner made of durable sanitary acrylic significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the bathtub, as a result the water cools very slowly.
For best result It is important not only to choose the appropriate size liner, but also to correctly distribute adhesive composition(foam and sealant from Henkel).
Step 1. Armed with a screwdriver and a grinder, we dismantle the strapping elements.
Step 2. Prepare the bathtub for installation of the liner. We clean the entire surface with sandpaper, a grinder, remove debris with a vacuum cleaner and degrease the surface. Wipe all drops of water dry. This measure is necessary to improve the adhesion of the adhesive foam to the plumbing fixtures.
Step 3. The inserts are transported with a technological edge, which is carefully trimmed with a grinder before installation.
Step 4. After the edge is cut, insert the liner into the bathtub and make markings under technological holes. To do this, we draw circles with a marker, sticking our hand under the bathtub and tracing the drain and overflow holes.
Step 5. According to the markings, we drill technological holes.
Step 6. Apply two-component foam and sealant. We insert a bottle of sealant into the gun and distribute it around the drain and overflow holes. Next, we take the foam and use a syringe to inject a special composition into the balloon, which will prevent it from swelling excessively. From bottom to top, apply foam in strips to the bottom, walls, and sides of the vessel being restored.
Step 7. Insert the acrylic liner into the bathtub, gently press it with your hands, leveling it. Remove excess sealant and foam.
Step 8. We install the siphon (piping).
Step 9. Fill the bath with water so that the foam, when hardened, does not displace the lightweight liner. The next day, you can drain the water and use your updated bathroom.
IN free time can be installed under a renovated bathtub decorative screen, as well as protective edges on the edges in contact with the walls.
Before starting hygiene procedures, do not forget to remove the protective film from the liner.
Video - Installing an acrylic liner. Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration
How to repair chips or minor restoration of damage to a bathtub
Sometimes small chips, cracks from fallen heavy objects, or scratches appear on the surface. And in this case there is no need to produce complete restoration, it is enough to carry out minor repairs in the proper sequence.
Previously, such defects were eliminated by mixing glue with tooth powder or applying epoxy to the chip and sprinkling it with porcelain dust. But such methods are extremely unreliable and should be abandoned.
Step one. We are preparing the chip for repair. First, apply a rust converter to the chip, wait, and wash off the composition with water. Then we clean the chip with powder or dishwashing liquid. Rinse with water and wipe dry.
Step two. Using acetone or another solvent, degrease the defective area. Dry and heat the surface with a hairdryer.
Step three. Using automotive putty, we coat the chip. We wait for it to dry and sand it with sandpaper.
Step four. We cover the putty area with two-component acrylic or automotive enamel.
Also for restoration you can use a ready-made repair kit for a bathtub, which includes acrylic paint, hardener, several sheets of sandpaper, epoxy putty, polish and detailed instructions. The approximate cost of such a kit ranges from 900 to 1300 rubles.
Video - Repairing chips and even through holes in a metal bathtub
A cast iron bathtub is fundamental, strong and durable. Unfortunately, the service life of the enamel coating is much shorter than the bath itself as a whole. Replacing such monolithic equipment is associated with many problems, so owners often decide to upgrade cast iron bath. This process allows you to restore the damaged enamel coating and return the bathtub to its former attractive appearance.
Let's consider the methods and technologies used for the restoration of bathtub coatings.
Restoring cast iron bathtubs by applying a new enamel coating allows you to do the work yourself, since this does not require special skills and experience. In addition to the possibility of independent restoration, the use of enamel compositions has the following advantages:
- Most cheap option coverage updates.
- Suitable for steel and cast iron products.
- There is no need to dismantle the drain and overflow.
The disadvantages of this method include the toxicity of the compositions: it is recommended to work in a respirator. Re-enamelling has a short service life of about 5 years, but the coating is sensitive to impact and prone to yellowing. In addition, the paint is not able to fill large sinks or chips of old enamel.
Note! Bath enamels are available in two types. Composition for professional use has a liquid consistency and is applied in 3–5 layers. Enamels for household use thicker and applied in two layers, they are suitable for self-application at home.
Set for restoration by application method new enamel includes two products: primer and enamel with hardener. All components are supplied in separate containers, the capacity of which is designed to repair one bathtub.
In essence, enamel coating an old bathtub is a simple painting special composition. The procedure and technology for performing enamel restoration is as follows.
Preparation
To ensure that the paint has sufficient adhesion to the old coating, the inner surface of the bathtub is cleaned with fine sandpaper. This roughens the surface while removing dirt and grease deposits. Dust generated during the grinding process is removed from the bowl using a vacuum cleaner. In this case, it is recommended to leave the body of the vacuum cleaner with the motor behind the door so that the flow of escaping air does not raise dust.
Advice! After sanding the bathtub and removing debris, take a break for 20–30 minutes so that the dust particles finally settle, after which the bathtub is rinsed with water and wiped dry with a napkin.
After the dust settles, the bath is rinsed with water. Padding
The next step is applying a primer. Before this, carefully cover the drain and overflow holes with masking tape, and also protect the lining along the edge of the bathtub.
Then a hardener is added to the mixed primer and the composition is thoroughly mixed.
Note! At room temperature The lifespan of a primer mixed with a hardener is 45 minutes, during which time you need to have time to completely prime the bath.
Part of the primer is poured onto the bottom of the bath, after which it is evenly rolled out over the entire bowl with a roller. When the poured composition is used up, more is added. The primer is applied thin layer so that there are no drips or omissions. If necessary, while the primer is moving, you can go through a second pass. Upon completion of priming, the protective masking tape is immediately removed so that it does not stick.
Start painting the bathtub with enamel after 12–24 hours (depending on the air temperature and the manufacturer’s recommendations).
Before applying the enamel coating, the following activities are carried out:
- The primed surface is sanded with fine sandpaper.
- Sanding dust is removed.
- The bath is washed with water and wiped dry with a rag.
- Drain holes and edges of the cladding are sealed with tape.
The enamel is then mixed with a hardener. The viability of the composition is also 45 minutes. Painting is carried out according to a similar scheme: the enamel is poured onto the bottom of the bathtub, after which it is rolled out over the entire surface in a thin layer, without gaps or sagging. After painting, the protective tape is immediately removed.
You can use the updated bathroom no earlier than specified by the manufacturer (from 3 to 7 days). If you use the bath earlier than the specified period, this will negatively affect the quality and strength of the enamel layer. After the enamel has dried, wipe the bath with a soft, soapy cloth, and then rinse with water.
Restoration with liquid acrylic
Restoring a cast iron bathtub using liquid acrylic is sometimes called the “pouring” method, based on the technology of applying the material. The advantages of this option include:
- Acrylic forms a thick, smooth and durable surface that hides any defects in an old bath well.
- No odor during work.
- Resistance of the coating to mechanical stress (within reason) and chemical cleaning agents.
- The surface is smooth and pleasant to the touch, easy to clean.
- Duration of operation – 10 years or more.
Among the disadvantages of restoring a bathtub using the pouring method are: high cost quality material, a long period drying (minimum 72 hours), the need to protect the coating from dust during the drying process. Despite the apparent simplicity of application, it is recommended to entrust this updating method to professionals, since without proper experience the coating can be damaged.
Preparation
Preparation stages:
Note! If the siphon is not removed while pouring acrylic, the overflow is wrapped with tape and the drain hole is closed plastic cup with sealant applied to the bottom. If the siphon has been removed, a piece cut to height is placed under the drain hole. plastic bottle or another container into which the acrylic will drain.
Preparation and application of acrylic
When all preparatory work carried out, acrylic base mixed with hardener. Mixing is recommended to be done by hand, with a wooden spatula or other convenient device. The mixture is thoroughly mixed, then a break is taken for 15 minutes to activate the properties of the hardener, after which the composition is thoroughly mixed again. If you want to get a colored coating, a special color is added to the composition.
Advice! While the prepared acrylic mixture settles, the bath is wiped with a dry rag to eliminate even the smallest drops of water on the surface.
The filling order is as follows:
- The finished mixture is collected in a small container and gradually poured over the edges of the bath. You should start from the far corner.
- Dripping slowly, the composition will evenly cover all the walls of the bath.
- The thickest layer should be at the bottom of the bowl - about 5 mm. A spatula is used to distribute the mixture evenly over the bottom and walls.
- When the mixture is evenly distributed, use a flashlight to check that there are no gaps.
- The final touch is removing drips from the edge of the bathtub.
Removed after 2 days protective films and tape, a siphon is installed (if it was dismantled). The glass covering the drain is simply crushed and carefully removed from the hole. You can use the bathtub no earlier than 72 hours after completing the acrylic pouring.
Repair with acrylic liner
Another way to repair an old coating is to insert an acrylic liner. This method is performed by professionals and involves purchasing a thin acrylic insert that is shaped to match the dimensions of the bathtub. The advantages of this option are the following:
- Fast work: about 2 hours.
- You can use the bath after 24 hours.
- The acrylic insert is perfectly smooth and even, does not turn yellow during use, and is easy to clean.
- Complete hiding of any defects, including along the sides of the bathtub.
- At correct installation The service life of a new bathtub is up to 15 years.
The disadvantages of using acrylic inserts include demanding installation and correct selection liner. If the work is done poorly and the insert does not match the dimensions of the bathtub, then this design will not last long. In addition, the liner is very thin and is not intended for high loads and impacts.
Note! To install the liner, you will need to clear all sides of the bathtub. If they are embedded in the cladding, it will need to be dismantled.
First of all, the sides of the bathtub are freed from the lining.
After this, the old siphon is removed. If mounted cast iron sewer, you will have to work with an angle grinder.
The siphon can be removed to drain holes were free. After dismantling work, all construction garbage, the bath is washed and wiped dry.
The next step is preparing the acrylic liner:
- The grinder cuts off the technological edge.
- Holes for drain and overflow are drilled using a crown.
Then a new siphon is assembled and installed, but the drain and overflow flanges are not screwed on, and a thick layer of silicone sealant is applied around the holes.
Immediately after this, apply stripes over the entire area of the bath. polyurethane foam, which acts as an adhesive and space filler between the liner and the old bathtub.
Then the liner is inserted, which is pressed along the sides and bottom. The drain and overflow grates are screwed on.
Note! Once installation is complete, the bathtub is filled cold water to load the liner and it sticks well.
After filling the bathtub, you can close the connection to the wall using plastic corner or a border glued to silicone. You can use the bathroom within 24 hours.
We have reviewed various options repairing the old coating of a cast iron bathtub. To new bath served for a long time, you need to choose quality materials and treat the renewed coating with care.