How to sheathe an iron door with dermantine. We cover the door with leatherette to retain heat and improve sound insulation

Upholstering doors with dermantine (vinyl leather) with a backing of foam rubber, padding polyester or batting is a good old method of finishing entrance doors. The purpose of such a coating is noise insulation, thermal insulation, and giving the door an aesthetic appearance. Dermantine upholstery is the most cheap way insulation and door decoration from all possible options.

If the doors are decorated from the inside decorative panels, including solid wood and veneer, metal with an anti-vandal coating is most often left outside, since any expensive upholstery can be damaged by vandals.

Meanwhile, due to the lack of insulation from the outside, both the heat-insulating and sound-proofing characteristics of the door suffer greatly.

It’s even worse if the front door is wooden. True, it retains heat and does not conduct sound, but it suffers from atmospheric influences and from the same vandals.

If the door is old and looks ugly, upholstery with dermantine - great way give it an elegant look. Moreover, it’s cheap, even if you don’t do it yourself. And it is very easy to care for such a coating; you can simply wipe it with a wet cloth.

The color of vinyl leather can be different, and the texture is not necessarily the standard smooth one.

How to upholster with dermantine with your own hands

For upholstery you will need a piece of dermantine, a piece of foam rubber or batting, and decorative nails. It is better to take plastic batting, but in principle any batting will do if you can level it across the canvas without lumps or unevenness. Tools include a hammer, scissors and a screwdriver to remove the fittings.

Video “How to cover a door with dermantine”:

Upholstering doors with dermantine with your own hands is possible even while hanging, but it is still more convenient if the door is in a horizontal position. To do this, you need to remove it from its hinges and place it on a table or four stools. Unscrew all fittings.

How to properly cover a door with dermantine

1. Cut a blank from dermantine along the length and width of the canvas with a minimum allowance of ten centimeters on all sides, as well as three strips for rollers fourteen centimeters wide (for three sides of the canvas, excluding the one facing the loops).

Tip: if you are upholstering wooden doors with dermantine that open inward, then a roller is also made for the hinge side. In this case, the workpiece is not cut so wide, the allowance for the loop side is the same as for the other sides. In this case, the rollers are nailed not to the door, but to the frame.

3. We insulate doors with dermantine. To do this, you need to spread a piece of foam rubber or batting on the canvas to the size of the canvas. Cover the top with dermantine with allowances, the largest allowance is on the side of the loops. Fold the edges so that the edge of the insulation is inside the fold of the dermantine. Nail it.

Video “How to sheathe a door with dermantine with a carriage tie”:

The edge of the panel should completely overlap the edges of the roller and the nails with which the roller is nailed. The upholstery starts from the lock, the nails are located ten centimeters from each other.

4. To make the door trim with dermantine (as in the photo) look beautiful, you need to nail the panel with decorative nails over the entire area. In this form it looks more beautiful, and the material will not move down, forming an untidy fold at the bottom of the canvas.

When calculating the number and location of central nails, you need to proceed from the aesthetic criterion, but if your filler is not sheet, then it is better to plant nails more often.

Tip: when plating is done front door dermantin, as an additional decorative element, you can use nylon thread, thin wire, fishing line. It is stretched between the nails along the perimeter, and in the center it can be pulled so as to form squares or diamonds.

5. Cut holes for the fittings and put them in place so that they overlap the cut edges.

6. Hang the door on its hinges.

7. Nail the allowance left on the loop side to the corresponding casing, first bending the edge.

The double doors are upholstered in the same way. There will be only one central roller; it should be placed on the sash where the handle is.

Upholstering doors with dermantine is also possible in the reverse order: first sheathe the canvas, and nail the rollers on top of it. But it is unlikely that the vestibule will benefit from such a sequence.

The “lazy” hanging dermantine door trim is no fundamentally different from the classic one. This method can be used if the door is too heavy and removing it requires energy. You won't win anything else: handles, eyes, locks will still have to be screwed together.

Video “Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine”:

To completely remove drafts and improve the fit, it makes sense to do another simple procedure: buy a rubber self-adhesive seal and glue it around the perimeter of the box.

Some believe that door upholstery with dermantine is possible using not rubber, but polyethylene, which is placed on tape. But this, firstly, is completely ugly, and secondly, the polyethylene material is fragile and will tear very quickly.

The older generation remembers well that in the early 80s, covering the front door with dermantin was considered the highest chic for apartment owners. After all, an ordinary citizen of the country could not afford such a finishing option. And not because there was no money for the material. The problem was that it was possible to buy dermantin only through a very large “pull” - it was practically not available for free sale.

With the collapse of the country, the material became more accessible and immediately millions of doors in the vast expanses of the former Union received such a covering. However, at the beginning of the new century, interest in dermantin fell sharply due to the relatively low aesthetic and technical characteristics of the material, and doors covered with it began to be classified as provincial. The explanation is simple: the unpresentable upholstery with an inexpressive texture and faded colors began to lose to its competitors.

Everything has changed again in the last few years. A material has appeared on the market with an excellent texture similar to natural leather and stable coloring. The result is that upholstery is back in fashion.

Why dermantin

Before answering the simple question of why dermantine is popular again, it is necessary to first clarify the very concept of “dermantine”, because there are many nuances, and also analyze its advantages over other types of finishing materials.

What is dermantin?

Wikipedia gives the following explanation of dermantin - it is a material made of cotton and nitrocellulose, applied on one or both sides. Refers to one of the types of artificial leather. It is used in various sectors of the national economy.

However, over time, both finishers and sellers began to call all types of leather obtained artificially by dermantine (the principle of synecdoche worked when the name of a particular one is transferred to a more general category or vice versa). This is confirmed by the price tags in stores where artificial leather is sold mainly like dermantine, but with different composition material.

Types of leatherette

For door upholstery, you can choose dermantine to suit every taste, from price to appearance. The most popular: nitro artificial leather, vinyl artificial leather, eco-leather and recycled leather.

Nitro artificial leather. The simplest, yet cheapest type of dermantine (in the classical sense) is nitro artificial leather. It is a cotton fabric (twill, technical fabric) coated with a nitrocellulose film on one or both sides. Depending on the scope of application, prices can range from 160 to 750 rubles/m 2.

Upholstery material has an aesthetic perception, specifications and service life (wears out quickly) correspond to the price - they are at a low level.

Vinyl leather. Manufacturers took into account the disadvantages of classic dermantine and began to apply a film of monolithic or porous polyvinyl chloride to the fabric. This coating is resistant to abrasion, temperature and humidity changes, and at the same time has a rather attractive appearance - it imitates natural leather. There is a wide difference in prices, but this is dictated by the price of the material used as the base: knitwear, woven and nonwovens made from natural or artificial fiber.

Acceptable quality vinyl leatherette upholstery can be purchased for 250-650 rubles/m2.

Eco leather. Application of polyurethane to cotton fabric or polyester gives completely the new kind dermantine - eco-leather. It has a lot of advantages: high elasticity, wear resistance, breathability (the material breathes), strength, etc. But the main highlight is the texture. Increasing the thickness of the polymer layer with subsequent pressure treatment produces a material that cannot be distinguished either visually or tactilely from genuine leather.

Doors upholstered in eco-leather look luxurious. The price of the material fully corresponds to its quality - from 450 to 1,100 rubles / m 2.

Recycled leather. The classification of recycled leather as dermantine does not entirely correspond to the accepted interpretation of the term “dermatin”. It is rather a modified natural leather made from leather fibers and latex chips. Various polymers are used to bind the composite.

According to its consumer characteristics - strength, abrasion resistance, elasticity and aesthetic perception— the material is very close to genuine leather. It is almost impossible for a non-specialist to distinguish one type of leather from another.

Recycled leather looks very impressive on a door. The price for 1 m2 ranges from 450 to 1,650 rubles/m2.

Advantages and disadvantages

The choice of dermantine for door upholstery is due to its consumer properties, not inferior, but in a number of parameters superior to natural leather. Among them:

reasonable price - the material is available to all segments of the country’s population;
anti-development various microorganisms, as a result of which the material does not rot or become moldy, which is typical for natural leather;
high tensile strength;
resistance to abrasion and aggressive environments (some types of acids and alkalis);
easy care - wash with laundry soap or any washing powder. Heavily contaminated areas are washed with a cotton swab moistened with ammonia;
immunity to the influence of rain, frost (withstands an infinite number of freezing cycles), ultraviolet radiation;
durability - service life, with regular care, is at least 10 years, during which the texture and color scheme retain their original appearance;
good warmth and soundproofing properties;
a wide variety of textures and colors - can be chosen to suit any interior.

There are also weaknesses:

the upholstery cannot be repaired even with a minor cut - only reupholstery;
It is easily flammable, which is sometimes used by intruders by setting the door on fire.

The listed disadvantages, although unpleasant, are not critical, requiring the abandonment of dermantine as an upholstery material for doors. After all, you can replace damaged material yourself with minimal costs- You only have to buy upholstery.

Upholstery technology

Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine is carried out in several stages. At the first of them, they are purchased necessary tools and materials, the second - the door is prepared for finishing, the third - the upholstery is carried out, the fourth - the upholstered door is decorated.

Materials and tools

Any homeowner, be it a house or an apartment, can upholster the front door on their own, including women, since technological process does not provide significant physical activity— You can also perform upholstery on an installed door. To begin work, you need to prepare the basic and Consumables, tools. You will need:

leatherette (we discussed above how to upholster a door instead of leatherette in its classical sense);
insulation. Here you need to purchase material that will simultaneously solve two problems: insulate the door and create the basis for obtaining a beautiful relief. These requirements are best met by foam rubber and isolon. You can use other types of insulation: mineral wool, batting, etc. Learn more about the types insulation materials, their pros and cons can be found in the work “”;
decorative nails 70-80 g/m2 (for metal doors - furniture buttons, for wooden doors - ordinary nails with a decorative head);

construction nails (consumed 50-55 g per 1 m2);

Attention: for metal doors, polymer glue is purchased instead of nails.

decorative, usually made of brass, wire, cord (braid), suitable for decoration in texture and color, or fishing line;

paint brush for glue;
a construction knife with replaceable blades or scissors for cutting dermantine and insulation;
a screwdriver with Phillips and slotted bits or a set of screwdrivers;
roulette;
construction pencil;
hammer (for metal doors - construction stapler).

Everything you need is at your workplace. Now let’s look at how to cover a door with dermantine with your own hands quickly, efficiently and beautifully.

Preparatory stage

The algorithm for preparing a door for upholstery at home is as follows:

locks, handles and peepholes are removed from the door;

door leaf removed from its hinges and placed on a table or four stools;
the doorway is inspected and, if necessary, the seals are changed;
removed old upholstery together with decorative fittings, if reupholstery is performed;
the door leaf is degreased (for an iron door you can use white spirit or acetone, for a wooden door - turpentine or gasoline), washed and then coated protective equipment(colored);
the wooden door is inspected. If the geometry is broken, special ones are nailed into the corners. metal corners. The cracks are sealed with sealant. Mold or mildew is removed, and their locations are treated with special compounds;

insulation is cut to size;
dermantin is measured with an overlap of 15 cm on each side for wooden door and 10 cm for metal, after which it is cut out;

For information: the door width can reach 100 cm, which is the limit. For larger opening widths, two sashes are installed. The width of the upholstery material is at least 140 cm. Therefore, the leftovers are quite enough for strips for rollers.

if the door is to be decorated, it would be a good idea to draw up a drawing in which to indicate where the decorating nails will be attached;
rollers are being prepared - an upholstery element with two functions: decoration and protection from drafts. They are a tube made of upholstery material (leatherette) in which insulation is wrapped. Depending on where the door opens and where the upholstery is made, they can be mounted on the door leaf or on the frame of the door frame.

For information: if the door opens outward, then when upholstering the outer side of the door leaf, you need to prepare 4 rollers and attach them under the upholstery or on it, if sheathing inner side, 4 rollers are also prepared, but they are attached to the box from the inside. With a door opening into the room, which is possible when double doors, you only need to prepare three rollers - they are not attached on the hinge side.

Instructions for attaching the roller

To make the roller, take a strip of dermantine 10-15 cm wide, into which scraps of insulation or material specially produced for this purpose are placed. The step-by-step process of attaching the rollers to the door leaf is as follows (regardless of whether the attachment is made under the upholstery or on it):

From the remains of the dermantine (after cutting out the pattern for the door), strips are cut out for the rollers - one for the side where the handle and locks are, two for the top and bottom, if the hinges are external. If hidden, then 4 blanks are cut. Width - 10-15 cm, length - 6-7 cm larger than the size of the side of the door where they will be nailed (2-2.5 cm on each side). The overlap is necessary to form a beautiful angle where the adjacent rollers join;
for the side of the door with external hinges, five strips are cut out - two are attached opposite the hinges on door frame(so as not to interfere with the movement of the door when opening), three on the door itself;
dermantine strips are nailed (wooden door) or glued (metal) to the edge of the door leaf front side down so that the formed roller protrudes beyond the edge of the door no more than 3 cm;
the insulation is laid in the form of a bundle (you can use a ready-made one or make it from scraps of insulation);

the strip is wrapped to form a roller and attached to the door.

The roller is attached to the door frame in the same way. The only difference is that the rollers located on the frame should cover the door by only 5 mm, and on the hinge side they can be installed flush with the door leaf.

Step-by-step instructions for upholstery

The instructions on how to cover a door from the inside with dermantine give 2 options for attaching the upholstery material:

classical;
carriage

Classical

The simplest and available method door upholstery - classic. But here it is necessary to take into account such nuances as the type of door leaf (wooden or metal), the presence or absence of insulation, and whether subsequent decoration will be carried out.

Wooden doors. The work is performed in the following sequence:

Insulation is placed between the rollers. It should not go onto the rollers. Allowable distance to the roller - 1 cm;
the insulating material is attached to the surface of the door with a stapler;
dermantin is laid on the insulation. The edges are folded inward (5-6 cm) so that the upholstery extends slightly over the bolsters;
Decorative nails strike at a distance of 7 mm from the edge of the folded dermantine. The first is in one of the upper corners, the second is nailed in the other upper corner. In this case, the sheathing fabric must be tensioned;
the upper part of the dermantine is attached in increments of 10-12 cm;

with the same step there is an alternate lowering down the sides of the doors;
the bottom is nailed;
holes are cut for locks, a handle and a peephole.

After this, you can start decorating the doors, more on that below.

Metal doors. Here you won’t be able to drive nails in either when attaching faux leather or when decorating. Therefore, the upholstery technology is slightly different: the door must be covered using glue, and decorated using furniture buttons. The work algorithm is as follows:

make a drawing on paper showing the location of furniture buttons;
transfer the drawing to the door;

glue the lower part of the furniture button to the door surface;

We put isolon or foam rubber on the buttons and lightly prick them so that marks remain;
remove the insulation and cut out holes for the buttons, keyholes, handle and door peephole;
Using the insulation as a template, we cut out holes in the leatherette;
coat the door with glue around the perimeter, especially carefully, and then in the middle;
glue the insulation;
We attach profiles to the ends of the doors on top of the rollers, onto which the leatherette fabric will be stretched. If they were not provided, then we apply glue to the ends of the door - this is where the leatherette will be attached (in this case, the rollers are glued on top of the upholstery).

The work is completed by decorating the door and installing fittings.

Karetny

Now let’s look at how to properly upholster a door with dermantine using the carriage method of attaching the upholstery material. The step-by-step process is as follows:

Attention: a number of publications suggest performing carriage upholstery directly to metal door from diamond-shaped pieces of material (this is classic, or as it is also called, correct option) using furniture buttons. This method of work can be done, but it is very difficult and time-consuming. It is more convenient to work with a plywood board 10 mm thick and in one piece upholstery, where the folds are formed by nylon thread. The covered panel is subsequently attached to the door in the same way as MDF panels. We will consider this option.

Step 1. Cut 10 mm thick plywood to fit the door size. After this, we cut out the cardboard to the size of the plywood board - it will serve as a template.
Step 2. On cardboard using a tape measure, pencil and ruler, draw diamonds diagonally. The crosshairs of the lines will be the place where the upholstery is attached.

Step 3. Transfer the markings from the template to the shield and drill holes in it with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm.
Step 4. Cut out the insulation (only foam rubber or isolon) with an overlap of 80 mm on all sides, and then glue it to the shield. Glue is applied only in the center and near the holes. We leave approximately 10 cm of un-glued space around the edges. The curved foam pad will be glued here.
Step 5. When the glue has dried, bend the edge of the insulation, lubricate the plywood with glue and, turning the edges of the foam rubber end down, glue them to the shield, forming rounded sides.
Step 6. Using a screwdriver with a Ziefendorf attachment (a special bit for working with soft materials) cut out holes with a diameter of 30 mm at the puncture site (furniture makers call this device a “joker”).

Step 7. Take the upholstery material and use a paper template to mark the holes on the back side.
Step 8. Using nylon threads, we sew all the marked points in the same way as buttons are sewn on. The tails of the threads should remain at least 20 cm.
Step 9. Using a hook or needle, the first row of “tails” is pulled through the insulation and the shield onto reverse side plywood and fastened to it with a stapler in the form of the letter “Z” three times so that the thread does not stretch out during operation. In this case, the canvas should go almost all the way to the shield.
Step 10. After attaching three rows with our fingers, we form the first diagonal folds. The depth of the bend should be about 1 cm. You can use wooden stick and form folds with it.
Step 11. Having completed the formation of all the folds, we wrap the artificial leather through the insulation side onto the back side of the shield and fasten it there with a stapler, after which we form the side folds.
Step 12. Take buttons, purchased or homemade. A nylon thread is drawn into them and pulled through the upholstery, insulation and plywood to the back side of the board, where they are fastened with a stapler.
Step 13. The shield is attached to the door. Holes for fittings are cut in it.

For information: in the work “Finishing the front door with your own hands” you can see the technology for attaching panels to doors.

Step 14. Locks, handle and peephole are installed.

Upholstery decoration

Upholstered doors are often decorated with decorative nails and brass wire, fishing line or braid that matches the color of the upholstery. Some drawing options are shown in the photo below:

To perform decorative work, points are placed on the surface of the upholstered door where a decorative nail will be driven in. A cord is pulled between the nails, forming a relief pattern. For metal doors, decorating work comes down to screwing the heads of furniture buttons onto pre-glued bases.

Some nuances when working with dermantine

When working with artificial leather, two emergency situations often arise:

due to long or improper storage in rolls, the material is wrinkled and does not straighten when stretched - the folds are clearly visible;
during operation on selected places paint scuffs appear.

Problems can be easily resolved:

You can smooth leatherette either using a wet cloth, for example, a sheet (placed on the unfolded outer piece of leatherette), or with hot steam from an iron. In the first case, as the draped fabric dries, the leatherette straightens, in the second, the steam immediately smoothes the surface of the artificial leather. The main thing is to steam from the reverse (wrong) side and under no circumstances touch the material with a hot iron.
Local abrasions are restored acrylic paints for leather and its substitutes. the main problem: choose a color. You can try to do this yourself by mixing different colors on the palette before receiving required color, or you can ask the paint seller to use computer program for selection of colors. But for this you need to provide a paint sample. You can get it from the door by cutting off a piece of folded dermantine. Thrifty owners will always have a sample in a secluded place.

If the selection fails, then the entire surface of the doors is repainted. Before painting, the upholstery is washed and degreased with alcohol or vodka. It is best to paint with a foam sponge. After the first layer has dried, apply the second.

Conclusion

Door trim modern materials, falling under the definition of “leatherette,” allows you to obtain a beautiful and durable door finish. The materials are affordable to a wide range of consumers, and the work itself can be carried out by the owners themselves - there is nothing complicated about the technology.

Video on the topic

Canvases may lose their attractiveness over time appearance, and the owners are seriously thinking about replacing them. But this is not always reasonable - in most cases the situation is corrected by finishing wooden doors.

To return the canvas to a neat appearance, it is upholstered different materials, decorated with fittings. It is quite possible to do this yourself. To cover wooden doors you will need:

scissors;
pencil;
roulette;
hammer;
construction stapler;
construction and decorative nails;
assembly adhesive;
necessary accessories;
insulation;
pliers;
screwdriver;
mites;
material chosen for finishing.

What materials are suitable for upholstery?

To update door structure, spending a minimum of time and effort, you can simply paint the canvas in any color. Sheathing a wooden door is more labor-intensive and time-consuming.

Different materials are suitable for upholstering wooden doors with your own hands.

Laminate It is a finishing board, with the reverse side lined with waterproof paper. The modern construction market offers many design options for this material: wood, stone, tile, etc. Thanks to this assortment, you can create a beautiful decorative design doors in any interior. In addition, laminate provides excellent heat and sound insulation. But due to the hygroscopicity of the material, it is used only for internal cladding.

Plastic– finishing made of polyvinyl chloride with the addition of chemical substances, increasing the resistance of the material to high temperatures, exposure to ultraviolet radiation and moisture. It is easy to install and maintain. Vinyl plastic is widely used for finishing - a durable, elastic material that is easily attached with glue to wood, concrete, and metal. Usually plastic is not sheathed on the outside of products; it is mainly used for interior decoration.

If you choose for upholstery, then experts advise covering the door with leatherette made on the basis synthetic fabric. This material is elastic, stretches easily, does not crack even at high temperatures, has high strength, can be found in a variety of shades and is suitable for upholstery on both the inside and outside of the fabric.

Door trim MDF panels popular due to their resistance to moisture and mechanical damage. This is achieved by covering with polyvinyl chloride film. You can decorate your front door with MDF yourself.

An excellent solution would be to sheathe an old wooden door. clapboard. This material consists of wooden slats of small thickness, equipped with special grooves for ease of fastening.

Marine plywood outwardly looks like solid wood. It is treated with stain and coated with frost-resistant varnish, so it can be used to decorate entrance doors.

Preparatory work

Dismantling of locks, peepholes, decor, handles.
Carefully remove the old coating. The main thing is not to damage the sash.
Removing the canvas from the loops and laying it horizontally on a table or several stools.
Cutting material for finishing according to the parameters of the sash.

Leatherette upholstery

In the past, leatherette trim was considered a luxury. Now it's more affordable option decor, and it is very popular. Its neat appearance, good heat and sound insulation properties make leatherette an excellent solution for covering a door.

Wooden

Wooden doors can be finished on both the inside and outside. There are some differences in technology.

In case of working with wooden products From the inside, they begin by determining how the door will open - inward or outward. This determines the choice of size and location of the sealing rollers.

Upholstery inside do-it-yourself leatherette doors step by step:

WITH outside The upholstery process is as follows:

The door is closed and 1 cm is retreated from the edge of the panel.
At the bottom, just above the edge of the sash, a sealing roller is fixed.
Cover the canvas with insulation, starting at the top and going down evenly on both sides. It is important to prevent the material from sagging.
The last stage is to cover the door with leatherette, securing the folded edges with nails. If desired, form a pattern using decorative fasteners.

Metal

Covering metal doors with leatherette is a more complicated matter. Most modern manufacturers supply doors that already have interior finishing. But several inexpensive models do not have such elements and require independent upholstery.

Scheme interior decoration metal door:

The steel sheet of the canvas must be lined around the perimeter wooden slats, attach polystyrene foam and seal the cracks polyurethane foam. Cover the resulting layer with a sheet of plywood.
Carefully stretch the door and apply insulation, securing it with glue or staples.
Leatherette is cut to fit the size of the sash, leaving a margin for tucking.
Fix the material at the top, then, pulling it, lower it along the edges.

If desired, create a pattern on the canvas using decorative elements.

Scheme external upholstery metal doors:

Synthetic padding or foam rubber is cut to the size of the sash, making it 8–10 mm smaller than the canvas.
Leatherette is cut according to the formula: the size of the insulation plus 6–7 cm.
Glue the insulation to the door. You need to wait some time for the material to adhere.
Attach a layer of leatherette, evenly stretching it so that there is no sagging. The edges are folded over the ends of the canvas and fixed with glue.
Install the necessary fittings.

Cladding

The lining is ideal for upholstery of wood and metal products, entrance and external surfaces. The slats are easy to assemble due to the fact that they are equipped with special grooves.

Wooden

You can cover a wooden door with clapboard yourself and at a minimum cost. The technology is quite simple:

Prepare the door leaf for upholstery by removing it and removing the old covering.
Place horizontally.
Cut the paneling to the required size.
Attach the first strip using a finishing nail exactly along the edge of the canvas. Use a level to make adjustments.
The next panels are tightly joined to the previous ones and secured with nails.
Clean the ends when finished.
Handle finished surface varnish, wait until it dries and install the fittings.

Metal

This process is more complex. Preparation is the same as in the first case. The slats are cut to the required size.

There are two ways to attach them to the door leaf:

use special fasteners (clasps) to place the casing directly on the metal;
make to door size wooden frame from a narrow beam and attach the slats to it, joining them to each other and securing them with nails. This option is good if you plan additional insulation doors: thermal insulation material laid under the sheathing.

The work is completed by sanding the ends, varnishing and then installing the necessary fittings.

The entrance door group is now mostly made of metal, so it primarily performs a security function. But budget options have some disadvantages. These include poor heat and sound insulation. The simplest and affordable way To compensate for these shortcomings, cover metal doors with dermantine. Before ready-made entrance groups appeared on the market, they were often ordered individually and made from sheet steel.

An example of upholstery of metal doors with leatherette

They were distinguished by a sufficient degree of reliability, but did not have a very presentable appearance, so they required additional finishing with different materials.
The finishing options were:

The most common is covering a metal door with dermantine.
Wooden overlays.
MDF panels and laminated fabric were also used.

Finishing the entrance door with leatherette, as a more expensive option genuine leather, were the most popular.

Existing leatherette colors

This is explained not only by the aesthetic appeal that the door acquired after finishing entrance group, but also practicality. Sound absorption and thermal insulation increased. The most used material to this day is vinyl leather (leatherette). If previously its range was not very wide, now you can choose a finishing option that will satisfy every taste. They will fit into interiors of varied styles.

Example of door trim with leatherette

The street side is finished, for example, with wooden overlays, MDF overlays, and the inner side of the canvas is upholstered and insulated with leatherette. This type of design is more suitable for private homes. IN apartment buildings More often than not, both sides of the fabric are covered with leatherette. Exterior finishing can be made in one color, vinyl leather texture, the interior is decorated with another type of material, more suitable for a given interior.

Upholstering metal doors is somewhat different from upholstering a wooden frame, but in general the same technique is used.

How to cover a door with dermantine yourself

Take your time to purchase a kit for covering canvases at a construction supermarket. Ready-made kits may have different configurations. You need to decide not only on the type of vinyl leather, but also on the purpose of finishing. Usually, except decorative effect, the door is additionally insulated and soundproofed.

Options for covering metal doors with leatherette

What materials are used and for what:

Stages of upholstering steel doors with dermantine yourself

First of all, you need to buy material to cover the metal. It is purchased at the rate of 10-15% of the stock.
Then prepare the tool:

Don't forget to purchase a universal adhesive for joining surfaces made of different materials.
If you decide to upholster or replace the upholstery of a metal door, it is better to dismantle it and remove it from its hinges. But you can do this on a hung canvas.

First stage, dismantling

Remove all the fittings: handle, lock, peephole. Next, if there is any, remove the old upholstery.

In the case when it will be installed internal insulation, you need to separate the canvases.

Second stage, installation of insulation inside the door

To do this, extract old material, cut the insulation to size and insert a new one. It can be mineral slabs from fiberglass, basalt. It is important to remember that holes must be cut in all layers of insulation for reassembly of the fittings.

Installation diagram of insulation on the door

Third stage, cladding with noise and thermal insulation

It is better to start installation from the outside of the canvas. Cut out and glue the vibration filter. Then you need to glue the isolon (sound insulator). To do this, apply an adhesive composition to the surface of the canvas with a brush and attach the material, especially carefully attaching it around the perimeter.
Foam rubber is glued on top of it in the same way. Sometimes batting is used (fluffy material on a stitched mesh base).

After installing the lining material, you can additionally staple all layers using a stapler. It is better to do this along the perimeter of the door leaf, stepping back a few centimeters from the edge, and in the middle of the leaf. Attach with staples only at individual points so that the surface remains level. This kind of upholstery insulating materials will significantly improve the quality characteristics of the doors.

Previously, a door upholstered with leatherette or similar leatherette was considered chic, and not every apartment could boast such decor for the entrance panel. However, even today such finishing will not be superfluous. And it’s not just about using upholstery as decoration; the strength properties of leatherette, combined with insulation, perform some useful functions. This is a heat insulator sound barrier, as well as protecting the canvas from damage.

This is what a leatherette door looks like

But, upholstering a wooden door with dermantine is a scrupulous process, requiring attention to detail and compliance technological nuances. How to do it this work to get a quality result?

When planning to restore or upholster wooden doors with dermantine yourself, it is worth considering the features of the work:

But, before you start directly reupholstering the surface of an old wooden door with a leather substitute, it is worthwhile to thoroughly prepare the door, if it is not new.

Preparatory work before upholstery

All preliminary preparations of the entrance system for covering the surface with a substitute can be divided into several stages:

And only after this you can start finishing the front door with granite.

Dismantling works

Before upholstering the door with leather with your own hands, you need to dismantle the door for more comfortable work. The fabric must be removed from the loops. The process itself can be performed in two ways, depending on the design of the canopies.

Input sheets are usually secured in the box using card dismountable loops installed with an insert.

Dismantling in this case is quite simple, you need to open it and lift it. After which the door can be easily removed.

Internal entrance panels are often secured to non-removable card canopies. To remove them, you need to unscrew the fastening screws screwed into the frame, and then dismantle the door. You also need to remove all the fittings: the locks are disassembled and removed, the handles are unscrewed, and the peephole is removed.

Door prepared for leatherette upholstery

The door needs to be placed on stands or a table for further preparation.

Recovery process

All old finishes must be removed, including the paint layer. If there are defects, it is not necessary to eliminate everything; the main thing is to get smooth and strong edges and end parts of the canvas. Also, to preserve the surface, you need to paint the canvas or open the wood with varnish.

The process of varnishing a wooden door

Particular attention should be paid when the sides of the door are distorted due to dry wood. It is important to plan the parameters of the canvas so that after upholstery it always works smoothly.

Material and tools

The main material for work is leather substitute, but as mentioned above, it can be different. The most commonly used fabric is PVC-based - vinyl artificial leather. The substitute palette is presented in various tones, allowing you to choose a material that matches the decor of the room. This fabric is durable and more resistant to abrasion compared to other analogues.

Leatherette or granitol is less durable, but it has not lost its relevance with the advent of modern analogues. When buying fabric for upholstery, it is worth remembering that it needs to be larger than the area of the door itself, since the edges must either be folded at the edges, or you will need to create rollers with a bend of approximately 100 mm around the entire perimeter.

In addition, insulation is needed for the entrance sheets; traditional foam rubber, isolon or other similar analogues are used as it. Classic nails with wide decorative heads can be used with special ones covered with a similar material.

Various nail head patterns

You may also need a construction stapler, scissors, a knife, measuring devices, and a hammer. When everything is prepared, you can start covering the doors with leatherette.

Performing upholstery

As mentioned above, the upholstery of the entrance and interior door panels is slightly different in technology. The first ones for the vestibule are edged with a roller with a bend of leatherette, and the second ones are simply covered with leatherette. The video shows step by step process leatherette door upholstery.

Creating rollers for the front door

Initially, work begins on creating rollers around the entire perimeter of the door leaf. The process works as follows:

You can also go a different route when making rollers. Initially, strips of granite are fastened to the canvas with staples, after which insulation is laid out, and, after wrapping the edges of the leatherette, the product is fixed to the wood.

Example of mounted rollers on a door

When assembling the structure of the rollers with subsequent fixation, you need to position them so that their edge protrudes from the edge of the input web by 5-10 mm.
Afterwards, you can begin directly covering the entire surface with a leather substitute.

Upholstery

The technology for performing front door trim is as follows:

Leatherette fabric or its equivalent is measured in accordance with the dimensions of the door, with a small tolerance of 10-20 mm for the lapels.
Trying leatherette fabric on a door
The leatherette begins to be attached from one of the upper corners. The edge of the panel is folded over, and one of the corners formed by the joint of the rollers is secured with a decorative nail.
The thermal insulation is measured and cut in accordance with the parameters of the door, after which it is spread out and the insulation is secured with a stapler, or glue, and then additionally with staples.
The process of installing a heat insulator on a door
The folded upper edge of the panel is pulled using a nail and secured to the opposite already secured corner.
The fastenings are driven in along the stretched edge, the pitch between them is pre-calculated according to the width of the doors. Typically, fixing points should be spaced at intervals of about 100 mm.
The next step is to sequentially attach a panel of leather substitute along the length of the doors.
Installation of the door leaf along the length of the door
The lower edge is folded, adjusting the remaining leatherette to size, and fixed with nails alternately from left to right (or, conversely, according to convenience).
The insulation and sheathing are additionally pressed with hardware diagonally, or forming a pattern.
Existing door trim pattern options

When everything is ready, you need to cut openings for locks in the granite panel. And rotary handles, as well as a peephole. The overhead handles are mounted directly through the leatherette, having previously adjusted it to eliminate unnecessary folds and bends.

Interior door trim

Internal and interior doors upholstered with leatherette, usually in various non-residential premises, but at the same time actively exploited.

The main goal is to create not a heat-insulating shell, but a protective one against wear, and, of course, soundproofing.

Rollers are usually not required on such entrance systems, so you can simply cover the door with dermantine around the perimeter with your own hands. Interior upholstery process:

If necessary, cuts are made in the leatherette covering for locks and rotary handles. The finished door leaf is hung in its place. New upholstery will significantly enhance the appearance of the entrance panel, while doing additional work in terms of heat and sound insulation.