How to repair an oil heater with your own hands. Repair of oil heaters Repair oil radiator

Oil-filled electric heaters are popular units in everyday life, characterized by high durability, since their production is carried out in industrial conditions using modern technologies. However, these electrical appliances are not designed to withstand all emergency situations in everyday life and still fail.

The device even modern unit allows you to repair oil heaters yourself in some cases.

Household oil-filled heating electrical appliances: on the left - flat, on the right - ribbed.

Let's consider this popular household heater from the perspective of assessing the possibility of restoring it after failure, since an oil heater needs to be repaired with a guarantee of the safety of its further operation.

Common oil heater malfunctions, their symptoms and repair methods

Troubleshooting an oil-filled electric heater, as well as repairs infrared heater any other type, requires certain skills and compliance with a number of rules.

Important! If any of the structural elements of the oil heater fail, operation of the heater must be stopped until the malfunction is eliminated.

Actual image of one of the models of oil heaters with a list of external equipment

First of all, you should be aware that restoring the functionality of most of the components of this heating device at home is impossible or requires professional knowledge and skills. Experimenting with failed electrical components is fraught with unpredictable consequences (electrical injury, thermal injury, fire, explosion), so repair an oil heater with your own hands without having vocational training, in most cases, follows only by replacing a part that has become unusable.

In addition, when repairing an electric heater, the following rules must be followed:

the device must be unplugged from the outlet;
the heater must be cooled to room temperature;
instrument equipment homemade components forbidden;
Avoid contact of transformer oil with the body, as well as with the wiring insulation;
Replacing a standard power supply cable with a grounding conductor with a wire without grounding is prohibited.

Oil leak

A leak in the oil cooler usually occurs when it is mechanical damage or as a result of corrosion caused by a defect in the protective paint coating.

When a long-used, familiar oil radiator leaks, a natural question arises: what to do, why not try to restore its tightness with your own hands?

However, repairing an infrared heater on your own in case of a leak is only possible if the device is a unit domestic production old style with steel radiator flat design and removable heating element.

Flat oil electric heaters of domestic production with steel radiators

To carry out repairs, the control unit, under which the heating element is located, is disconnected from the device body. Then, after disconnecting the contacts, the heater is unscrewed and the oil is drained through the mounting socket into a clean container. The remaining oil is allowed to drain, after which the radiator is filled with water to prevent the oil inside from igniting.

The wall thickness of such radiators is 1-1.2 mm, which allows the use of electric welding. The leakage area on the body is cleaned with a grinder with a grinding disc or manually - with coarse sandpaper. Depending on the location and size of the damage, a patch of steel of appropriate thickness is cut out, applied to the hole and scalded using a Kemppi semi-automatic machine.

Kemppi devices different models for semi-automatic electric welding in domestic conditions

The welding seam is cleaned and ground, after which, if necessary, it is welded again. After degreasing, the repair area is painted with heat-resistant paint, for example, Rustins High Heat Black Pain.

Important! If the heater is painted powder technology, then during production repair work you need to strive for minimal damage to the coating - it is impossible to restore it under domestic conditions.

Heat-resistant paint Rustins High Heat Black Pain in small packaging

After the paint has dried, the radiator is filled 80% with oil, and the heater is assembled in the reverse order.

If the oil heater clicked when heating before the repair, you should not expect that the clicks will disappear after the seal is restored - the mating parts of the housing are deformed when the temperature rises and at the same time crack.

Repairing radiators of finned oil heaters is not advisable, since they are made of thin sheet steel using laser welding. Restoring the tightness of such tanks is technically difficult, does not guarantee success in domestic conditions, or is comparable in cost to the cost of a new heater. In addition, if the heating element is non-removable, then the oil can be drained through damage, but it will no longer be possible to fill it back.

No heating

A technically sound oil-filled household heater makes a quiet noise when plugged in. This factor is not dangerous, as it is caused only by the expansion of the assembled body of the unit, which clicks when heated.

If, after turning on the unit and installing required values power and temperature, the heater is silent, which means that the radiator does not heat up, and the fault should be looked for in the electrical part.

First of all, visually inspect the integrity of the electrical cable. If there is no visible damage, you must first remove the racks with wheels from the lower part of the unit body.

Then you need to disconnect the control unit from the radiator, for which purpose, using a screwdriver, pry up and remove the standard plate on top of it with the inscription Do not cover, under which there are fastening screws.

Placement of fastening screws of the control unit to the housing

Having unscrewed the fasteners from above, the screws in the lower part of the control unit are also released or the fixing springs are unfastened (depending on the model), the shell is removed from the edge of the junction of the block with the radiator, and the dismantled unit is laid with the inside out.

Sequence of removing the control unit from the oil heater housing

Perform a visual inspection of the integrity of the wiring and insulation, as well as the quality of contacts at the junctions of the wires, paying attention to areas with kinks and oxidation. A wire with obvious internal damage is replaced with a new one, the oxidized contacts are disassembled, cleaned with sandpaper and reassembled.

Upon completion of the visual inspection, they begin to “test” the components using a tester - a multimeter, which begins with testing the cores of the wire section from the plug to the nearest connection. The operation is simplified different colors lived in the cable of an electrical appliance, which makes it easy to trace the direction of the wiring.

The sound signal from the tester indicates the integrity of the area being called, while the absence of a signal indicates damage.

First stage Checking the oil heater using a multimeter - the area from the plug to the heating element

Replacing the Tubular Heater

The heating element, in addition to heating elements, is equipped externally with current and temperature fuses, the presence of which must be taken into account when dialing. It is possible that, with a working heating element, one of these fuses burned out, or even both failed.

Heating element fuses: on the left - by temperature, on the right - by current

If testing nevertheless reveals a failure of the tubular heater, then further actions depend on the method of installing the heating element in the radiator. The threaded fastening of the heater in the absence of rolling allows its replacement. In this case, the heating element is unscrewed from the radiator, and in its place, with the replacement of the sealing gasket, a heater with identical parameters in terms of power and shutdown temperature is installed.

Tubular electric heater with a threaded installation method in a heating unit

With a non-removable installation option, the heater is rolled into the radiator socket. In domestic conditions, it is very difficult to flare an old heating element and install a new heating element by sealing it, so you should think about buying a new oil heater.

Temperature controller malfunction

Testing this node is done as follows:

ring the section of the chain from the plug to the thermostat;
the regulator is set to the minimum temperature value and tested - the circuit must be open;
when turning on each of the heaters individually, as well as two heating elements simultaneously, when setting the temperature regulator to a value other than zero, the circuit must be closed.

Inside view of the thermostat of a Sinbo 2 kW household oil heater

If a test of the thermostat shows its malfunction, that is, the oil heater does not respond to switching power modes or changing the temperature by turning the flywheel, the device must be replaced, since its diagnostics technical characteristics with subsequent repairs based on the results of testing in an industrial environment are not advisable, and it is extremely difficult to do this in a domestic environment.

If there are no malfunctions, the regulator is cleaned of dust and the contacts are tightened.

Failure of the bimetallic strip

The question of whether an oil heater can explode is relevant, since the oil pressure in the radiator reaches high values, and the air “cushion” in the form of 20% of its volume still has limited potential. To prevent this from happening, the heater design contains a thermal relay, which should turn off the heater if it overheats.

Under normal conditions, this relay, which is a bimetallic strip, should complete an electrical circuit. If the multimeter detects an open circuit in this thermal fuse, then it should also be replaced with a new one with identical characteristics.

Continuity check of the oil-filled heater thermorelay and appearance thermostat

Oil heaters explode extremely rarely precisely because they have several degrees of protection that duplicate each other, and the likelihood of simultaneous failure of all safety devices is low.

No heater shutdown when tipping over

Opening the electrical circuit when the oil heater is tilted or tipped over is ensured by a device whose operating principle is based on the presence in its design of a suspended weight, which retains its position when the unit deviates from the vertical.

An option for equipping the oil heater with a circuit-breaking device when the device overturns is a plumb line with a metal weight

Testing of this device is carried out by manually deflecting the heater from the vertical. If the device does not turn off, the element must be cleaned of dust and removed, or better yet, replaced with a new one, the installation of which is not difficult.

It should be noted that if the protective switch fails, the oil heater does not explode - if heating elements that are not covered with oil overheat, the thermal protection of the tubular heater is triggered, or the thermal relay opens the electrical circuit.

Conclusion

Oil radiator- a device, the malfunction of which can be independently diagnosed, but it is better to minimize the repair of this device on your own until replacing failed parts with new ones, since the operating features (hazard factor of use) electric current, high blood pressure and oil temperature) require professional skills and increased attention to the work.

This video will help you get a better understanding of how to repair oil-filled IR heaters:

The main point of the article

An oil-filled heater is a unit in demand by consumers, the design of which does not contain complex technical solutions.
All oil radiator malfunctions can be diagnosed independently, but most failed parts must be replaced with new ones.
If the radiator is leaking, then restoring the tightness of the tank will be effective only for flat-type heaters of domestic production.
Experiments with the restoration of failed components are dangerous; in most cases, it is necessary to install new parts - real examples, when the oil heater exploded, there is enough.
Proper care of IR heaters and compliance with operating rules is the key to many years of use of the heaters without the need for repairs.

Do-it-yourself repairs are quite possible. Many owners successfully restore the functionality of these heat sources without resorting to the services of specialists.

When starting to repair any electrical appliance, you need to know two things - and how it works. The oil heater consists of:

metal case;
heating element (heat heating element);
control unit;
connecting wires.

The heater body is filled with oil, which is heated by a heating element when turned on. Heat is transferred to the walls of the housing, and from them to the heated room. When a certain temperature is reached, the control unit is activated and heating stops. The cycle is repeated as long as the heater is connected to the mains. As a result, a constant temperature is maintained in the heated room.

Basic faults

There are not many reasons why an oil heater does not work. Conventionally, they can be divided into two parts – electrical and mechanical. Failure in work electrical equipment Most often it occurs on the heating element and control communications - thermal relay, switch, thermal fuses. There may be a problem with the wiring, but this is extremely rare.

TO mechanical Damage includes various holes in the housing, as well as the formation of shells on it through which oil leaks. As a rule, these are the fruits of corrosion activity. Determining the type of malfunction is not very difficult. Mechanical failures are always associated with oil stains under the heater. All other faults are related to the electrical part.

Preparation of the workplace

To repair a heater, you first need to create the conditions for this. One of the main prerequisites for successful repairs will be preparation for it. First of all, you need to choose a place where you will disassemble the heater. It should be spacious enough and well lit. A garage or a separate room is best suited for this.

Then the tool and accessories are prepared. Since the design of the heater is not difficult at all, the instrument will be very ordinary. A set of screwdrivers, pliers and side cutters, a small hammer and an awl - this will be enough for repairs. Before repairing, you need to have a soldering iron, a tester, WD-40 liquid, lubricant (Graphite or Litol-24) and a little alcohol on hand to wipe the contacts. There must be clean rags. If the cause of the breakdown is determined in advance, then spare parts are needed to replace the failed parts.

Let's start the renovation

The question of how to repair an oil heater with your own hands arises for everyone when the device stops working. Meanwhile, there is absolutely no difficulty in this issue. First of all, it is necessary to disassemble in order to get to the repair object. To do this, you need to disconnect the control panel from the case. As a rule, it is secured with latches. But there is another kind of fastening. For example, screws or staples.

Therefore, you must first carefully inspect the heater to determine how the panel is attached. Then carefully, without making much effort, remove it. Disassembly should be done without using brute force, since all fasteners are made of plastic.

Before starting repairs, you must turn off the power to the heater.

Checking the power cord and switch. From this it is necessary to begin work on restoring the functionality of the oil heater. The fact is that during long-term operation, the wires usually burn out at the junction points, and the contact is broken. In this case, it is enough to disconnect the wire and strip it, and at the same time the connection point. After that, put everything back together. Contact has been restored. We use a tester to check whether this is really the case. At the same time, you need to check the power cord for broken wires. Rarely, but such a malfunction occurs. This is done simply, using the same tester.

Next stage - inspection of all contact connections in the control unit. It is necessary to very carefully inspect each contact for burning, oxidation and loosening. A screwdriver, fine-grained sandpaper and cotton wool moistened with alcohol will be sufficient for repairs. It is possible that somewhere you will need a soldering iron to solder the torn wiring.

It may happen that there is faulty thermal relay, or temperature controller. In this case, you need to carefully remove it and disassemble it. After disassembly, the bimetallic plate located inside is removed and replaced with a new one. The whole point is that there can be no more faults there. After replacing the plate, the relay will restore its potential.

Repair of thermal fuses will consist of checking their performance and replacing them, if necessary, with serviceable ones. Checking is a simple tester. There may be several thermal fuses, or they are also called thermostats. We check everyone.

Left check the condition of the heating elements. To do this, it is enough to measure their resistance with a tester. It should be less than 1 kOhm. One connection checks for open circuit. Thus, if the tester shows a lot of resistance or shows nothing at all, then it’s time to change the heating element.

At this point, the check of the electrical part of the heater can be considered complete. Let's move on to mechanical problems.

Of these, only one is relevant - oil leak. In this case, the heater will have to be disassembled to drain the remaining oil inside. If there is damage to the body, it is important to determine exactly where it happened. Then you need to thoroughly clean the found area with sandpaper. This is done to determine the repair method. If it turns out that the hole is small and there are no signs of corrosion around it, then one of the repair options would be to screw a self-tapping screw or a screw of a suitable diameter into the hole. Another option would be to use a special sealant called “cold welding”. Before use, it is kneaded in your hands until it becomes plasticine.

A rolled ball of sealant is applied to the hole and carefully leveled on the surface. After 15-20 minutes it hardens enough that you can use the heater. It will be somewhat more difficult to eliminate the hole that has formed due to rust. In this case, you will need to sand the entire rusty spot down to “living” metal. Then again you need to carefully inspect and evaluate the size of the hole. If it is not very large, then it can be soldered. If the hole is large, then you need to use welding, that is, apply a patch and scald it. In this case, repairing the oil heater will be more serious and will require not only special tool, but also skills.

The heater body is soldered with brass solder or its substitute. Just not tin. It is better to carry out welding semi-automatically. That is, a wire, not an electrode.

As you can see, repairing oil heaters, and even doing it yourself, is possible for anyone who is familiar with the basics of electrical engineering and plumbing. Therefore, before throwing away the heater, you need to carefully inspect it. If the damage is minor, it will be much cheaper to repair than to buy a new one.

When starting to repair any electrical appliance, you need to know two things - how it works and how it works. The oil heater consists of:

metal case;
heating element (heating element);
control unit;
connecting wires.

Basic faults

Preparation of the workplace

Let's start the renovation

Before starting repairs, you must turn off the power to the heater.

Checking the power cord and switch. From this it is necessary to begin work on restoring the functionality of the oil heater.
The problem is that during long-term use, the wires usually burn at the junction points and the contact is broken. In this case, it is enough to disconnect the wire and strip it, and at the same time the connection point. After that, put everything back together. Contact has been restored. We use a tester to check whether this is really the case. At the same time, you need to check the power cord for broken wires. Rarely, but such a malfunction occurs. This is done simply, using the same tester.

At this point, the check of the electrical part of the heater can be considered complete. Let's move on to mechanical problems.

A rolled ball of sealant is applied to the hole and carefully leveled on the surface. After 15-20 minutes it hardens enough that you can use the heater. It will be somewhat more difficult to eliminate the hole that has formed due to rust. In this case, you will need to sand the entire rusty spot down to “living” metal. Then again you need to carefully inspect and evaluate the size of the hole. If it is not very large, then it can be soldered. If the hole is large, then you need to use welding, that is, apply a patch and scald it. In this case, repairing an oil heater will be more serious and will require not only special tools, but also skills.

The heater body is soldered with brass solder or its substitute. Just not tin. It is better to carry out welding semi-automatically. That is, a wire, not an electrode.

tehnika.expert

How does an electric heater work?

Almost all types of heaters are designed similarly. Both simpler and more complex models are available. We will look at the device of the most complex option. In simpler models, a thermal fuse and a tilt sensor may not be included in the circuit.

Let's consider a more simplified version with one-key switching and one light bulb. Often heaters are equipped with a two-key switch and several indicator lamps; the operation scheme will be similar, the only difference being that instead of one key there will be two, and there will be two heaters in one case. In convection options, a sensor for preventing objects from getting inside is often built in, but it connects and disconnects the power supply in the same way as a position sensor.

Any modern electric heater consists from a plug with a power cable, which is connected through a thermostat and a switch to a heating element installed in the housing - a heating element. Very often the heating element has not 2, but 3 contacts for connection. The first power supply wire is connected to one, and from the other from the socket - two other wires connected from two-gang switch, which allows you to turn on either one spiral or two at once full power.

The circuit may contain a thermal fuse, which automatically turns the device on and off to protect against overheating. A tilt sensor can also be installed, which opens the circuit when the heater is tilted above the permissible angle. In expensive convection models, other sensors are also installed. For example, protection against objects getting into the device.

Some models There may be a fuse to protect against overload currents or short circuits, which is triggered in emergency situations.

jelektro.ru

The design of a simple oil radiator

In order to correctly determine what is broken and repair it, you must first understand how the heater works. Its design consists of:

The housings are accordions with technical oil inside. Also, you need to know that most appliances contain some air.
A heating element is built into the bottom of the device on the side, which heats the oil. Most often it consists of two spirals. This is necessary to make it easier to regulate the power of the device.
Nearby is a security and control unit. There is a thermal relay at the top, it does not touch the body.
And a fuse (turns off the device in case of failure, for example, if there is an oil leak). Fuses can be disposable wire type or reusable (bimetallic).
There are two illuminated switches. Each of them has three wires: phase, neutral from the heating element and ground.

The electrical circuit of heaters is similar to the electrical circuit of other appliances: irons, kettles, etc.

How to disassemble an oil heater

At first glance, it seems that oil heaters are a monolith that is not intended for disassembly. But this is not so, you can disassemble it.

What may be useful for do-it-yourself oil heater repair and related maintenance:

a wedge-shaped object that can be used to pry the plastic panel;
screwdriver;
tester or multimeter;
sandpaper;
soft cloth;
alcohol, cologne or the like;
needle file;
brush.

Of course, heater models are different, and therefore it is impossible to describe a standard analysis algorithm. Inspect the heater control panel. Sometimes there are screws and fastening brackets. Then the disassembly process will begin with them.

However, most often the plastic panel is secured with a spring latch. You need to walk around the perimeter of the panel with a plastic (or any other object, as long as it does not scratch the body). Carefully, without sudden movements, so as not to break it. By touch you can determine where the latch is and, pressing harder, bend it.

But don’t rush to disassemble the heater! Some breakdowns can be identified without looking into the device.

Major breakdowns

Extraneous noise

During operation of the device, crackling, hissing, etc. may occur. This is the case when there is no need to disassemble anything: most likely, the heater tilted, fell, etc. There was a movement of oil and air in it. Place the device in an upright position for several days. The problem will resolve itself.

Electrics

To begin with, plug the heater into another outlet, in case the problem is there and not in the device.

If it’s the heater that’s broken, arm yourself with a multimeter.

With its help, we check the serviceability of the electrical part (you need to start with this, if the device does not heat up, the indicator light does not light up).

We check:

serviceability of the socket and plug;
Is there a short circuit between the parts of the radiator?

A common problem: wires burning out at their connections.

The de-energized device is checked to ensure that all switch keys are working properly.. This is done using a tester or multimeter:

in the ON position, there will be a short circuit at the ends;
and in the OFF position - nothing.

The thermostat is checked with a multimeter (there should be no short circuit, and the resistance should be small). Other damage can only be reached by disassembling the case.

We inspect the contacts in the control unit: they can burn out, oxidize and weaken. Maintenance involves treating with alcohol. Loose contacts are tightened using a screwdriver. The oxidized ones are cleaned with sandpaper and isolated. The most heat-resistant insulation is fiberglass tape (withstands up to 200 degrees).

Check again for availability short circuit. Perhaps this will be the end of the repairs. If the heater does not work, we will look for another breakdown.

Thermal fuses

There may be several of them. Having called and found the faulty fuse, we remove it, and insulate the wires and connect them together. This procedure is safe if there is more than one fuse; if the only one fails, then it will have to be replaced with a good one.

Bimetallic plate

It may be deformed and the plate needs to be replaced.

For this:

The temperature regulator is disassembled.
The minimum heating temperature is set.
The regulator handle is removed from the screw, the nuts are unscrewed, and the frame is removed.
The bimetallic plate is removed and a new one is installed.

Severe damage to the plate often causes an oil leak.

Oil leak, tank repair

If there is an oil leak, it means there is damage in the housing. Repairing a tank is a responsible and not always justified undertaking. If you decide to do it, it is important to know the following:

The oil needs to be drained.
When sealing the tank, it is not tin solder that is suitable, but brass, silver or copper-phosphorus. You need to use a torch.
In order for the seams to “seize”, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the edges from rust.
During work, water is poured inside the tank (to protect against fire), and after work the container must be dried.
When the work on repairing the tank is completed, you will need to change the oil. There are also certain subtleties here:
Oil should fill 90% of the tank, and the rest should be air.
Transformer oil will do, but not waste oil (it will clog the heating element with scale)!
Mineral oils are not compatible with synthetics.

Failure of the heating element

This element cannot be repaired, only replaced! But it only makes sense to take on replacing the heating element if your heater is made with a removable heating element. A new heating element is selected that is equal in power and, preferably, copper. Please pay Special attention at the junction between the housing and the heating element. The gasket is supplemented with sealant.

But even in this case, there is a possibility that after some time cracks will appear in the sealant and the repair will need to be repeated.

If the heating element is non-separable, then it will be extremely difficult to roll it back after flaring and replacing the part.

Drop or position sensor

This safety element is in the form of a weight that turns off the device at a certain angle of inclination of the heater.

To check the serviceability of this element, place the device on its side and ring the contacts.

So. Indeed, there are several problems with oil heaters that are quite easy to fix, for example: noise, oxidized contacts, or faulty wires. Execute simple repair Anyone can make oil radiators with their own hands.

But if, after disassembling the device, you discover a more serious breakdown, think about whether the “game is worth the candle”? Wouldn't it turn out that repairing a heater, in terms of time and costs, would be more expensive than buying a new device?

microclimat.pro

Design and principle of operation of the heater

In appearance, an oil heater most often resembles regular battery heating, however, this device is sealed, and its inner space filled with oil.

At the bottom of the container heating element inserted. A thermal fuse is located near the heating element, which serves to turn off the heater if the temperature of its body increases excessively.

Thermal relay usually located in the upper part of the body, without touching it. A switch is placed near the relay. If it is present, there is no need to remove the plug from the socket to turn off the heater.

The simplest oil heater diagram looks like that:

When the switch closes, after plugging in the electrical appliance, the heating element immersed in oil begins to heat up. The start of operation of the device is indicated by a light bulb.

An adjustable thermostat determines the maximum temperature after which The heating element will turn off. It will switch back to heating mode after the device has cooled to the set temperature.

Adjusting the Thermostat occurs by a bimetallic plate located inside it. The position sensor is designed to break the electrical circuit when the heater overturns.

For better management to operate the device, it is equipped with two heating elements. In this case, two switches are installed on the housing. With their help, the heating power is regulated. When adjusting, one of the heating elements can be turned off.

The schematic diagram of an oil heater with a fan differs practically little from a conventional heating device. Its main difference is that in the presence of a fan, the heating elements impossible to turn on if the fan does not work for some reason. This heater circuit prevents damage to the heating elements from overheating.

Oil heater malfunctions and repairs

If yesterday the heater worked properly, today stops heating, then there is no need to immediately run to the workshop, or to the store for a new heating device.

Many malfunctions are quite possible fix it yourself having basic skills in repairing electrical appliances.

An exception may be faulty heating element, most often tightly rolled in the heater body. It is quite possible to remove it, but it will not be possible to put it back in place. Even if the heater is equipped with a removable heating element, it will be difficult to ensure the tightness of the device when replacing it.

Typically, malfunctions that occur when a heater breaks down appear in more accessible places. The most vulnerable point The device is a cord, so its integrity should be checked first. If the design of the plug allows it to be disassembled, then you need to check the junction of the cord cores with the pins of the plug.

If the plug is working properly next step there should be a check of the condition of the cord itself, as well as the location of its connection to the heater’s power supply. For this purpose it is removed decorative cover panel of the device and the tester checks the serviceability of the cord. If it is damaged, the cable is replaced with a new one.

If the cable appears to be working properly, then the fault may be hidden in the state of the power supply contacts. The contacts may be coated with carbon deposits and weakened.

In this case, the contacts are cleared of carbon deposits. sandpaper, and loose contacts are carefully tightened.

The thermostat is located in the same place. If darkening is visible on its contacts, then they also need to be cleaned. The thermostat may be faulty bimetallic plates. If damage is detected, the thermostat is carefully disassembled and the plates are replaced with new ones.

If the oil cooler belongs to the category energy saving, then its design contains a thermostat that ensures the device is turned on and off at the specified parameters.

In case of excessive heat heater, or at low temperatures it also needs to be inspected. If a malfunction is detected, this part is replaced with a new thermostat that has similar parameters.

If there is a fan in the oil heater design, it is also need to check. In this case, not only the contacts of the device are checked, but also the integrity of the winding of its motor. It is possible that it may need to be replaced.

After completing the above-described checks and eliminating the detected faults, the heater is assembled and then connected to the network. If the heating device still doesn't work, then you will have to seek advice from a specialist.

Most likely that he will recommend purchasing a new heater. Some repairs can be so expensive that it's easier to head to the store.

Device and electrical diagram you will find the oil cooler in the video:

For instructions on how to repair (replace the heating element) an oil heater with your own hands, watch the video:

holodine.net

Oil heater repair

The older generation remembers that previously the accompanying documentation for all electrical appliances always included detailed diagram, thanks to which it was possible to repair the product with your own hands.

Modern instructions, as a rule, do not contain such explanations. But don’t despair, the oil heater is not spaceship and understanding it is quite possible.

Common breakdowns

Important: do not be alarmed if the oil radiator clicks when heating up or after shutting down.
When the technical oil inside the unit heats up or cools down, slight crackling is normal.
Plus, the thermostat can make such sounds.
In some cases, installing the device on a solid, level surface solves the problem.

If the sensors on the control panel of an electrical appliance do not show signs of life, then first of all you need to make sure that the outlet is working properly. A large load entails burning of the contacts. The next number is the fork, here the reason is similar. After making sure that the socket and plug are in order, you need to check the mechanical integrity of the wire itself, chafing, creases, squeezing;

If the indicators are lit, the fan spins when it is on, but there is no heat, you need to check the operation of the thermostat. Such things often cannot be repaired, the price is low and such relays are available for sale. Unscrewing a couple of fasteners and reconnecting the terminals is not difficult;
In the case when the unit heats up normally, but does not turn off after heating, the reason must be sought in the thermostat. As in the case of a thermostat, the thermostat cannot be repaired; it is immediately replaced with a new one. Despite the fact that the device seems to be working, you should not delay replacing the thermostat. Heating elements, operating in constant overload mode, will quickly burn out, and this is already serious;
If the wires and automation are normal, you need to check the serviceability of the heating elements. A “broken” heating element can only be replaced if the possibility of dismantling is provided. IN inexpensive models heating elements can be tightly sealed into the housing, which makes it cheaper to buy a new heater;

Fault repair

Advice: although the oil radiator circuit diagram is relatively simple, if you decide to fix the unit yourself, you should not rely on memory.
All disassembly actions must be recorded on paper or video, in order to subsequently return everything to its original state.

Repairing a socket, plug or cord is extremely simple. The socket or plug is unscrewed and if carbon deposits are detected, all burnt parts are removed and sanded. The cord is simply inspected and “ringed” using an ohmmeter.

Do not forget about the contact group inside the device itself. Taking off protective cover, internal contacts should also be inspected and preventative measures taken.

It happens that small debris gets into the thermostat armature and the contacts also burn. In this case, you need to disconnect this unit, remove the cause of the blockage, clean the area of the short circuit, and additionally wipe it with alcohol.

When completely replacing the thermostat, it is advisable to immediately adjust the settings. This can be done by setting the armature movement in the range of 1.5 - 2.5 mm. Since the casing has been removed, it would be useful to immediately ring the thermal relay and fuse.

If after all the efforts it turns out that the cause of the malfunction is a “broken” heating element, then it will need to be replaced. This is not difficult to do, but you need to act carefully so as not to overfill the oil. Plus, our Chinese friends prefer to save on the quality of gaskets, which often leads to slight oil leakage; the algorithm of actions will be similar.

The oil radiator design provides for the installation of heating elements in the lower end part of the device. The cover can be secured with several bolts or a pair of locknuts. The device must be turned upside down, unscrewing the fasteners, and carefully remove the heaters.

Tip: on modern market There are quite a lot of different models of heating elements; visually similar models may differ in characteristics or have different fastenings.
That's why ideal option will take the old heating element and, presenting it in the store, ask to pick up the same one.

In order to eliminate or prevent oil leakage when replacing the heating element, you should use paronite gaskets; as a rule, they come complete with the heating element. Please note that it is not recommended to use rubber gaskets; they may be destroyed upon contact with technical oil or will not withstand elevated temperatures. To be on the safe side, in addition to paronite, you need to additionally lubricate the connection with heat-resistant sealants.

How to assemble an oil heater yourself

Making such a unit at home is not difficult. Moreover, the design of the oil radiator is the same everywhere, the difference lies only in the power of the equipment and the dimensions of the device body.

Depending on the size and required power of the device, from 1 to 4 heating elements can be installed in it. Often, one heating element is enough for a household heater.

As for the case itself, the choice is huge. Most often, standard cast iron, aluminum or steel batteries are used for this purpose. But you can also use a regular metal gas cylinder, a pipe of suitable diameter, or even a tightly sealed pan. The main thing is that the heating element does not touch the body.

Don't forget about the oil itself. As a rule, it is recommended to use any purified technical oil. But electrical transformer oil is considered the ideal option. This composition is already adapted to work at high temperatures.

The price for it is quite high and can take up to half the budget, so you need to approach the choice of case volume carefully.

It is most convenient to make a heater from a standard cast iron battery MS-140, it has an acceptable cost, plus there are ready-made heating elements and related accessories on the market, adapted for this model.

As already mentioned, the heaters are mounted at the lower end of the unit. The housing must be grounded; on the opposite side of the structure, a ball valve and an oil radiator drain hose are installed below. This is especially true for volumetric heaters with a heavy body, where draining the oil, if necessary, is difficult due to the high mass.

Since we are talking about a heater based on MS-140, the upper hole of the battery, which is located above the heating element, is closed with a plug. And above drain tap the hole is closed with a plug with a Mayevsky valve built into it, so that, if necessary, the pressure can be relieved.

Important: regardless of the size and volume of the heater, its oil fill should be within 85%.
The remaining 15% will be used to compensate for oil expansion when heated, plus in large units it is advisable to install an additional expansion tank.

The video in this article shows the intricacies of assembling the heater.

Conclusion

As you can see, malfunctions of the oil cooler, as well as assembling a homemade electrical appliance with your own hands, are not prohibitively difficult and impossible. For those who find it easier to visually perceive information, we have prepared a video in this article.

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Oil heater design diagram

1 – The housing consists of several sections containing oil.
2 – The handle is designed to move heating device to other rooms.
3 – The panel displays the operating time, mode and temperature of the device.
4 – The thermostat prevents significant heating of the housing (1).
5 – The switch disconnects the device from power.
7 – The reel is used to accommodate the power cord (8).

Principle of operation

The surface of the device heats up by only 70°C. The design provides simple circuit, where two devices are located:

emergency thermostat, which is activated if the temperature exceeds 80°C;
the second thermal fuse, which trips at a temperature of approximately 62°C.

The first thermostat is installed on the electronic section of the radiator. All oil is located in sections that are interconnected welded seams. Heating radiators are mounted on a special movable surface. The sections are flat, they have a lower and an upper channel, they are connected by small veins. At the bottom there is a heating element (heater), to which a thermal fuse is screwed. It is additionally protected by a special heat-resistant fabric. Even when the oil boils, the response temperature will not exceed 62 °C. However, this figure still needs to be reached. The upper thermal fuse, with a fixed temperature of 80 °C, is attached to the metal case. Therefore, no matter what temperature is set, the limit will not be exceeded.

Temperature control

The heating element consists of two branches that can work both together and separately. Therefore, heating radiators can operate in three modes. They differ from each other in terms of heat transfer. The switching circuit is very simple. To select the appropriate mode, there are buttons at the top of the device. The thermal fuse is located under this panel. It works if the temperature is above 80°C. The process is carried out according to this principle:

when you press the button, the oil heating rate changes, and as a result the room temperature;
During the process, a mode is set in which the device turns off.

That is, at night the minimum mode is set. To ensure quick heating of the device during the day, it is turned on to maximum.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among positive qualities highlight:

High level of security. All heating elements are located in a housing, the surface of which does not heat up to high temperatures.
Long service life. Household radiators can function without being turned off for 3 days.
Quiet operation and small overall dimensions.
Low price policy. To heat a home, everyone can buy a model that is affordable.
There is no smell of burnt dust when the device operates.
Does not dry out the air.

The disadvantages of heaters are minor:

It takes a long time for a room to fully heat up.

The design is quite heavy, but it can be easily moved using wheels.

Models with fan

This is what an oil heater with a fan looks like

An oil heater with a fan is a useful and convenient thing. Its main advantage is providing comfortable conditions indoors due to an increase in air temperature. A timer is provided for heating the room. Thanks to it, the heating time is regulated. This is very convenient for those people who are away from home for a long time and want to come to warm apartment. The most popular manufacturers are Delonghi, Bimtek and the Dutch company General Climate.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to the features of the heated room, as well as the presence of additional functions. The power of the heater must provide complete heating of the room. This indicator is important. It is he who influences the creation of comfortable conditions. You should pay attention to the temperature of the walls, as well as the presence of windows and doors. These indicators affect power.

Electric radiators are available with different numbers of sections. To heat a large room you need many sections. The next point is that heaters must be equipped with an automatic thermostat. It helps regulate the temperature.

Additional functions include: timer, mode for drying clothes, fan, control panel. However, such models require financial costs.

What can break?

Repair of oil heater due to breakdown

Repairing an oil heater is not particularly difficult. So, the housing may leak, therefore, it is necessary to fill in oil. It is better to use transformer oil. Mixing several types is not provided.

Next reason – broken tank. This problem happens quite often. The user notices that the tank is empty and all the oil is on the floor. You can fix this using cold welding. It can withstand large temperature changes. The welding quickly hardens due to the presence of magnetic filings. Therefore, this problem is solved in an hour.

Cold brew is sold in pencil form. The scheme of operation is quite simple. Required amount cut off and kneaded wet hands like plasticine. Damaged areas of the body are cleaned of paint and rust, and any remaining oil is removed. Then this substance is applied to the damaged areas of the body. After it hardens, it must be treated with sandpaper or a grinder. This place can be painted to give the device an attractive appearance.

Sometimes it is necessary to purchase additional spare parts. This happens when the heating element breaks down. How to determine it? First of all, the resistance of the heating element branches is measured. If it has a two-digit number, then everything is fine. An indicator of failure will be the presence of a short circuit or rupture of the element. The heating element is located inside the housing, so it must be removed. In this case, spare parts are needed. The new heating element must be the same brand as the old one.

Before using a radiator for heating, it is necessary to check the tank for leaks and also inspect the insulation of the heating element.

Repairing an oil heater may not affect the heating element and the oil tank. It happens that the device does not turn on at all. In this case, the reasons may be:

breakdown of the emergency thermostat;
thermal fuse failure;
broken switch.

If the switch does not work, then there will be no voltage in only one branch of the heating element. To repair it, you need to purchase additional spare parts. You can complete the process yourself.

Installing an oil radiator for heating in a country house or garage is now commonplace and necessary. After all, despite all the delights of scientific and technological progress, interruptions in heating still happen. Such a unit can be assembled with your own hands or purchased factory model, but in any case, sooner or later all owners are faced with the need to repair these products. ABOUT possible breakdowns and the intricacies of assembly we will talk about now.

The photo shows a voluminous homemade unit.

Oil heater repair

The older generation remembers that previously, the accompanying documentation for all electrical appliances always included a detailed diagram, thanks to which it was possible to repair the product with your own hands.

Modern instructions, as a rule, do not contain such explanations. But you shouldn’t despair, an oil heater is not a spaceship and it’s quite possible to understand it.

Common breakdowns

Important: do not be alarmed if the oil radiator clicks when heating up or after shutting down.
When the technical oil inside the unit heats up or cools down, slight crackling is normal.
Plus, the thermostat can make such sounds.
In some cases, installing the device on a solid, level surface solves the problem.

If the sensors on the control panel of an electrical appliance do not show signs of life, then first of all you need to make sure that the outlet is working properly. A large load entails burning of the contacts. The next number is the fork, here the reason is similar. After making sure that the socket and plug are in order, you need to check the mechanical integrity of the wire itself, chafing, creases, squeezing;

If the indicators are lit when it is on, it is spinning, but there is no heat, you need to check the operation of the thermostat. Such things often cannot be repaired, the price is low and such relays are available for sale. Unscrewing a couple of fasteners and reconnecting the terminals is not difficult;
In the case when the unit heats up normally, but does not turn off after heating, the reason must be sought in the thermostat. As in the case of a thermostat, the thermostat cannot be repaired; it is immediately replaced with a new one. Despite the fact that the device seems to be working, you should not delay replacing the thermostat. Heating elements, operating in constant overload mode, will quickly burn out, and this is already serious;
If the wires and automation are normal, you need to check the serviceability of the heating elements. A “broken” heating element can only be replaced if the possibility of dismantling is provided. In inexpensive models, the heating elements can be tightly sealed into the housing; here it is already cheaper to buy a new heater;

Fault repair

Advice: although the oil radiator circuit diagram is relatively simple, if you decide to fix the unit yourself, you should not rely on memory.
All disassembly actions must be recorded on paper or video, in order to subsequently return everything to its original state.

Do not forget about the contact group inside the device itself. Having removed the protective casing, the internal contacts should also be inspected and preventive maintenance performed.

Advice: there are quite a lot of different models of heating elements on the modern market; visually similar models may differ in characteristics or have different fastenings.
Therefore, the ideal option would be to take an old heating element and, presenting it in the store, ask to pick up the same one.

How to assemble an oil heater yourself

Depending on the size and required power of the device, from 1 to 4 heating elements can be installed in it. Often, one heating element is enough for a household heater.

As for the case itself, the choice is huge. Most often, standard cast iron, aluminum or steel batteries are used for this purpose. But you can also use a regular metal gas cylinder of suitable diameter or even a tightly sealed pan. The main thing is that the heating element does not touch the body.

The price for it is quite high and can take up to half the budget, so you need to approach the choice of case volume carefully.

It is most convenient to make a heater from a standard cast iron battery MS-140; it has an acceptable cost, plus there are ready-made heating elements and related accessories on the market adapted for this model.

Since we are talking about a heater based on MS-140, the upper hole of the battery, which is located above the heating element, is closed with a plug. And above the drain valve, the hole is closed with a plug with a Mayevsky valve built into it, so that, if necessary, the pressure can be relieved.

Important: regardless of the size and volume of the heater, its oil fill should be within 85%.
The remaining 15% will be used to compensate for oil expansion when heated, plus in large units it is advisable to install an additional expansion tank.

The video in this article shows the intricacies of assembling the heater.

Conclusion

Electric oil heaters are common devices and are highly reliable, but it happens that such simple devices fail. In a situation where the heater does not turn on or does not heat well, you need to check the availability of the warranty card. If the warranty is valid, it should be taken to service center. But it often happens that such an opportunity is not available, and you will have to do the repair of the oil heater yourself. In this case it is necessary to consider possible reasons breakdowns and find out methods for eliminating them.

Oil radiator design

Different heater models may have different quantities heating elements, thermostats and switching devices for connection and connection. They also have forced airflow systems installed to enhance convection and increase heat transfer.

The heating elements are placed in a durable, oil-filled, sealed housing with fins, coated with a durable dielectric powder coating. Switches are attached to the heater with outside. All connections of heating devices and external elements controls are connected through a sealed coupling.

The oil heater circuit is designed as follows: the power wire with a plug is connected through switches and a thermal fuse to the heating elements. In this case, the thermal fuse ensures a break in the supply circuit in the event of emergency overheating of the device. The latest models of oil heaters are also equipped with a position sensor, which turns off the device if it falls or critically deviates from the operating condition.

How to disassemble an oil heater

If you decide to fix the problem yourself, then disassembling the heater should begin from the side where the power cord is connected. In most cases, it fits into the cover that covers the control panel and is secured with external screws. By unscrewing them and removing the control panel cover, you can gain access to all safety and switching devices.

At this point, the analysis of the heater is completed, since it is extremely undesirable to break the seal of the housing. In 90% of cases, any malfunction is a failure of control systems or a break in contacts located outside the sealed housing.

Types of faults and their elimination

Typical heater malfunctions are as follows. When the device is connected to the network, automatic protection is triggered. switchboard. This is a sign of a short circuit. Repair of oil heaters in this case is carried out by determining the location of the short circuit and eliminating the cause of the short circuit. If the device does not heat or heats poorly, there may be many reasons. You can find out why the device does not work by testing the circuit and identifying the faulty element.

Traces of oil on the body and floor will indicate a leak in the seal. It is necessary to find the location of the leak and restore the integrity of the housing. To fix a heater, you will need some tools, but they are fairly common and are likely to be found in any home.

It is necessary to consider each of the possible breakdowns in more detail.

Repairing oil leaks

If an oil leak is detected on the device body, you need to find the leak, weld it or solder it. In the latter case, you should use silver solder; you cannot solder with plain tin. Leaking oil will not allow the leak to be properly soldered, which means you will have to drain the oil and only then carry out soldering using a torch. Then you should check the tightness of the soldering area by filling the heater with water. After making sure that the liquid does not leak out at the leak site, it must be drained and the heater dried by heating.

After all the water has evaporated, you can pour oil into the heater. Before pouring, the substance should be heated to 90°C. If there is a significant leak, the entire volume must be changed, using transformer oil if possible. When filling the heater, you must leave room for thermal expansion. Adding another oil is strictly prohibited, since the brand of the original product is unknown, you can accidentally mix mineral with synthetic. The entire volume of oil must be replaced.

Extraneous noise

Noises in the heater can be either periodic or constant. The source of noise after switching on may be water that entered the oil in the form of steam during assembly due to high humidity in the workshop. When water heats up, it changes from a liquid to a gaseous state and produces a crackling sound.

Another cause of noise when turned on may be bursting air bubbles. This happens when the heater was moved and the oil was swirled in it. After warming up the device, these noises disappear and do not pose a danger for further operation.
A constant crackling sound is the cause of a malfunction in the electrical part of the heater. It should be found and eliminated, since such a device cannot be operated.

The heater may also crackle due to the linear expansion of parts whose dimensions change when heated. This is also not dangerous, in addition, the sounds disappear when warmed up.

Electrics

If the oil cooler stops working, this is most likely due to problems and malfunctions of the electrical part. The check should begin by removing the cover covering the heater's electrical circuit. After this, use a tester to check the serviceability of the power cord. The faulty element is found by calling one by one. Then you should switch the tester to resistance measurement mode and check the condition of the conductors. If the resistance of at least one conductor differs from zero, the plug or wire is replaced.

It will not be possible to repair the electrical part, except for the cord, at home. It is necessary to remember, or better yet, photograph the order in which the terminals are connected, and then remove the faulty sensor. You need to buy the same one in the store and install it in place of the old one.

Bimetallic plate

The bimetallic thermostat is located next to the heater mode control keys. It consists of a rotating handle connected to a moving contact and a bimetallic plate. It consists of two different metals and is capable of changing its linear dimensions depending on the temperature, and when the ends are firmly fixed, they bend and close the contact.

The serviceability of the bimetallic thermostat is checked by connecting it to a tester. By gradually turning the heater temperature control knob, the resistance at the relay terminals is measured. The resistance should be 0 at all positions of the regulator. Otherwise, you need to wipe the contacts with alcohol or sand them with sandpaper (zero). If the manipulations did not lead to normal operation regulator, it should be replaced.

Thermal relay

The number of these elements depends on the connection diagram of the heating elements and the set of heater modes. In most cases, the device has 3 operating modes and 3 self-resetting thermal fuses, while 2 heating elements of different power are installed.

Thermal fuses are located in fiberglass protective tubes. By checking the resistance of each of them, you can determine the serviceability of the elements. If there is a malfunction, the thermal relay must be replaced. After performing repairs, you should check the circuit resistance in each mode of operation of the heater.

Failure of the heating element

The heating element (tubular electric heater) for an oil heater consists of a shell - a tubular metal body, a nichrome spiral and quartz sand, isolating the spiral from the walls of the tube. The tube is sealed at both ends with bushings through which the heating coil leads are connected. They have no polarity and are connected to the network randomly.

Most frequent malfunction in a heating element, this is a break in the spiral heating element ( nichrome thread). To check, you need to touch the tester probes to the terminals of the heating element in resistance measurement mode. When multimeter 1 appears on the display (resistance is infinity), a broken thread is diagnosed.

If it turns out that the heating element for the oil heater has burned out, then repairs will be required, which will be very difficult. This is a search for a heating element of the required configuration and power, pressing it out of the body with the accompanying process of draining the oil, replacing the heating element, adding oil, sealing, etc. It is easier to buy another heater, since repairs will cost almost the same amount.

Drop or position sensor

The fall or vertical position sensor of an oil heater is a system of a weight and a spring-loaded lever that are in equilibrium. When the heater is in a vertical position, the weight acts on the lever, which acts on the limit switch that closes the network. When the position of the oil heater changes, the balance of the system is disturbed and the switch breaks the contact.

There are 2 wires coming from the position sensor. By measuring the resistance of the sensor in different positions, its serviceability is determined. If the oil heater is in a vertical position, the resistance at the ends of the sensor should be zero. When tilted, the resistance should be infinity. If the measurements are different from the norm, the sensor should be replaced.