How to prevent the armored belt from freezing. Insulation of armored belt on an open veranda

Insulation of armored belt on open veranda. In this article we will tell you how to insulate an armored belt outside the walls of a house. We have open verandas on each side of the house. One veranda is visible in the photo. Since when building a house from gas silicate blocks, an armopoy is required, we made it in the form of a monolithic continuous strip along the entire perimeter of the building. We lived through the first winter without completely insulating all the cold bridges. because The cold weather has already set in and all insulation work has been stopped. During next summer We not only insulated the base, but also insulated the armored belt that runs along the open veranda.

How to properly insulate a monolithic reinforced belt on an open veranda (outside the house)

To cut off the cold bridge at the entrance to the room - and with the cold bridge in in this case is part of a reinforced monolithic belt located above the open veranda - it must be properly insulated. Before starting work, we carefully cleaned the reinforced concrete armored belt from construction waste dust and dirt accumulated over the year. Detected remains of masonry mortar or other large irregularities were preliminarily beaten off. A hammer or a sturdy scraper work well for this purpose. Then these places were also cleaned with a wire brush. After cleaning, we coated the entire insulated area with primer. For this work, “Universal soil for internal and external works"or any other primer and a stiff brush for facade works.
As insulation, we used sheets of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) "TechnoNikol" 30 mm thick in the packaging - this is enough. EPPS - thermal insulation material, which does not rot, does not swell or get wet, does not shrink, and is durable. Manufacturers of extruded polystyrene foam recommend it for insulating foundations, plinths, blind areas, floors, flat roofs and other designs. To isolate the cold bridge, it is enough to insulate the armored belt at a distance of up to 1 meter from the entrance to the house. This insulation is sufficient to prevent heat loss at this point. However, for aesthetic purposes, we insulated reinforced belt along the entire length: because it is visible both from the veranda and from the street, so we decided to make it the same size (the same thickness) on all sides. In order to purchase required quantity EPS, it is necessary to calculate the insulation area. You will also need a composition for reinforcing and fastening EPS boards to reinforced concrete beam, which is also an armored belt. We used "Glue-114" for thermal insulation boards from expanded polystyrene. Rules for use and the required amount of glue can also be calculated using the instructions on the package. And the last thing you need:

• mesh for reinforcement - its area should exceed the insulation area by 2.3 times;
• “mushrooms” for attaching the insulation to the armored belt.

Reinforced belt, aka monolithic belt or seismic belt is a special design designed to solve two problems. First, distribute the load from what will be on top to what will be below. And, secondly, to connect the entire plane on which it is located into a single whole. Both a monolithic concrete armored belt and a reinforced brick one cope with load distribution.

Both of them do an excellent job of distributing the load, say, from floor slabs to walls. If the task is also to connect the walls into a single whole, for example, from the bursting load of the roof rafters on the walls of the house, then a reinforced concrete belt is needed.

How to make an armored belt with your own hands

Now that we’ve figured out what an armored belt is, let’s find out how to make it with your own hands. WITH brick armored belt it's simple. Typically, masonry is made of solid red brick of minimum grade M100 in several rows with reinforcement masonry mesh. You can also reinforce the masonry with reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. With a concrete, monolithic armored belt, the situation is more complicated.

First you need to set up the formwork. This can be either wooden formwork or “tray” or permanent formwork, if we are talking about armored belts on aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks. You can use factory U-blocks or make your own trays. To do this, it is not necessary to cut a U-block from a regular gas block. It is enough to make masonry from a thin gas block on the outside and inside. The space between these blocks can be insulated with extruded polystyrene.

After you have made the formwork, a reinforcement frame is placed inside the tray.

Sufficient reinforcement for an armored belt measuring 200 by 200 mm is a frame of 4 threads of reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm (two on top and bottom), fastened with transverse clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm every 30-50 cm.

The standard overlap of reinforcement should be 30-40 diameters. That is, if you are laying 12 mm reinforcement, then when building it up, you need to make an overlap of about 40 cm.

In the corners, reinforcement is necessary fold over so that the corner is connected by solid reinforcement.

It is advisable to place the frame made of reinforcement on plastic clamps of the thickness of the protective layer of concrete. And put the clamps on the vertical clamps. If there are no factory fixings for the protective layer, you can use pieces of stone, brick, etc.

Pins under the Mauerlat or pieces of reinforcement are attached to the reinforcement frame for subsequent fixation of the floor slabs.

Now you can proceed directly to pouring the reinforced belt with concrete.

If you will be pouring purchased concrete, choose the M200-M250 brand. This grade of strength is absolutely enough for private construction.

If you plan to prepare concrete for pouring the armored belt yourself, then use universal recipe proportions of concrete for the armored belt: 1 part cement grade 500, 2 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone.

You can also use one of construction calculators to calculate the composition of concrete. Don't forget to add concrete plasticizer to the mix. This will make the filling more convenient for you, and the resulting armored belt more durable.

After pouring, cover the armored belt with film to prevent sudden drying. For the same purpose, wet the concrete for the first 2-3 days.

The armored belt will be ready for loading in a week. Full maturation of concrete will be completed 28 days after pouring.

The most frequently asked questions on the topic of reinforced belts.

In what cases is an armored belt needed?

A monolithic reinforced concrete belt is required:

• on a block foundation
• on walls made of aerated concrete, foam blocks, etc. under hollow core slabs and wooden floor beams (to prevent squeezing). Here the armored belt can be brick
• under the Mauerlat on the roof, the design of which assumes a spacer load on this same Mauerlat

Is it possible to fill the armored belt in winter, in cold weather?

Filling the armored belt into winter time the occupation is dubious. However, if you really need to fill it in the cold season, take all measures to protect the concrete. Add special anti-frost additives to concrete. Use as much as possible less water for mixing concrete. After pouring, be sure to cover the armored belt to protect from the cold. For example, sawdust. IN minus temperature, use a special heating cable. It is sold in any construction supermarket.

What is the minimum thickness, height, width, size of the armored belt?

The minimum size of the armored belt is 150 by 150 mm. But not less than the width of the support of the slabs or floor beams.

The armored belt freezes, what should I do?

If you or your workers forgot to insulate the armored belt before pouring, then you will have to insulate it now. The armored belt is insulated from the outside.

Condensation on the armored belt. The armored belt is sweating. What to do?

Insulate. Other options: increase the room temperature, reduce the room humidity.

Is it possible to fill the armored belt in parts?

Can. To do this, make a bevel at the junction. And the concrete doesn't have to be smooth.

Which technology is best to use to achieve this goal?

What materials should I use?

Much will depend on the materials of the walls of the house and its design features. View all possible options it will be quite difficult, so we will focus on houses built from blocks, which are popular nowadays various types and insulation made of polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.

To achieve optimal results, it is important to install thermal insulation correctly, protecting all parts of the residential building from the effects of cold.

Insulating a house from the outside operates on the principle of a thermos, which can for a long time maintain temperature inside. In a thermos, this effect is achieved partly due to air gap surrounding the inner flask, in our case, insulating the outside of the house with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam will help reduce heat loss.

The greatest effect can be achieved if thermal insulation is installed during the construction process, since it is more difficult to insulate a house efficiently if they are already living in it.

Ordinary polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is suitable as good thermal insulation for block walls. But before you begin installation, you must complete the following: preparatory work:

1. Place insulation on the upper armored belt, with which it will be joined the last row polystyrene foam
2. Hammer in beacons for tensioning the threads, which will be used to guide the installation of thermal insulation.
3. Attach a guide profile made of galvanized iron along the wall below, which serves as the basis for the first row of insulation boards.

Warming the armored belt at home

For insulating the armored belt, pressed mineral wool 100 mm thick is best suited. It must be laid in such a way as to protect all structural elements of the upper part of the wall from freezing. First of all, you need to pay attention to the mortgages mounted in the armored belt. After the trusses are installed and secured in the desired position, it is necessary to cut out parts from mineral wool in order to insulate the anchors on which they are held on all sides bearing structures roofs.

The space under the heels of the trusses must be filled with concrete.

Insulation elements in this case will serve as formwork.

Protection of the anchor connection from the cold will not be complete unless it is covered with insulation on top.

It is also important to fill all the gaps between the heat-insulating parts with foam.

When all the truss fastenings are protected from the cold, you can cover the remaining parts of the armored belt with insulation, foaming the joints between installed elements thermal insulation (1), as well as their connection to the concrete surface (2).

Installation of beacons

The next step leading to the installation of thermal insulation on the wall is the preparation of beacons that will help to correctly install the foam, creating a strictly vertical plane. For lighthouses, it is best to use 16 pieces of reinforcement about 30 cm long (4 for each wall).

The pin is driven into the wall at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corner (so as not to break off a piece of concrete). To do this, holes are pre-drilled with a hammer drill to a depth of 5-10 cm, the diameter of which must correspond to the thickness of the reinforcement. One pin needs to be hammered into each corner of the wall, at the top and bottom.

As you can see in the two previous photographs, a fishing line is stretched between the upper and lower reinforcement, which is important to set plumb. Its distance from the wall should correspond to the sum of three components - the thickness of the foam, the thickness of the layer of adhesive mixture and 2-3 mm of reserve, which will not allow the fishing line to touch the installed insulation. For 100 mm thick foam plastic, this distance is usually about 12-15 cm, if the wall plane is fairly level.

Between the vertical lines, movable horizontal lines are stretched, along which they are mainly oriented when installing thermal insulation.

Installation of the perimeter guide profile

The width of the galvanized profile must correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation board. It is installed so that it lies on the horizontal surface of the foundation insulation.

The profile is secured using “quick installation” dowels (1), having first aligned its outer edge along a thread (2) stretched between the two lower beacons.

As you can see in the illustration, the profile is not mounted to the cinder block, but just below the level of the top of the foundation. Thus, by installing a 100 mm wide profile close to the concrete, you can expect that there will be a certain space for the adhesive mixture between the installed insulation and the wall. This is possible due to the fact that the vertical surfaces of the foundation and cinder block masonry are not at the same level, but there is a small step between them.

If the design of the building is such that the surface of the foundation and the wall are one plane, or if the profile is installed above the level of the foundation, then it will be necessary to make special brackets that allow you to leave some distance between the wall and the profile during its installation.

This space definitely needs to be filled polyurethane foam.

Please note: Mounting the profile so that its outer edge is strictly parallel to the thread will not be easy due to the fact that for the fastening element you need to drill a hole in the concrete through the metal of the side wall of the profile. Deformation of the sheet metal in one place can provoke a change in the shape of the product in its neighboring parts. Therefore, when doing this work for the first time, you may have to adapt. When driving in the dowel, you should also be careful not to bend the edges of the profile, which could cause its outer side to rise.

Installing thermal insulation on a wall

Once the preparatory work has been completed, you can begin installing the thermal insulation. For the first row of slabs, the previously installed guide profile serves as the basis. To secure the foam to cinder block wall, use a mounting mixture intended for this purpose, which is pre-mixed using a mixer.

The finished substance is applied in the form of several blobs onto inner side insulation, evenly distributing them over the surface.

When installing the first row, the lower part of the insulation board is inserted at an angle into the guide profile, carefully bringing its top closer to the wall surface.

As you can see in the photo of the installation of the first row of insulation boards illustrating the insulation of cinder block walls, so that the fishing line does not interfere with installing the foam in its place, it must be temporarily pulled back. Later, when the bloopers touch the wall, you need to release the line and gradually press down on the top of the slab until a gap of about 1-2 mm is formed between it and the thread.

Please note: Once the foam has been pressed against the wall, it should not be pulled back. Distributing under pressure into narrow space, the thickness of the layer of the mounting mixture decreases, due to which it will no longer be able to perform its function. Therefore, it is better to press the slab against the wall as carefully as possible in order to line it up the first time.

Installation of the second row of slabs is carried out in a similar way, only without a guide profile. First, the bottom of the foam is installed at an angle, and then its upper part is aligned along the thread.

To reduce the likelihood of errors, you can install a second row of two fishing lines.

When installing the second and subsequent rows of foam plastic, it will be necessary to cut parts from whole slabs for installation in window and doorways.

It is also important to install insulation according to the principle brickwork(each next row is shifted by half the length of the slab).

After the top row of slabs is joined to the mineral wool lying on the reinforced belt (1), all seams between the insulation elements (2) should be foamed.

In addition, you need to strengthen the slabs with plastic dowels. To do this you need to perform the following 3 operations:

1.Drill a hole in the wall through the foam using a hammer drill.

2.Insert a mushroom dowel there.

3. Carefully hammer a plastic nail into the hole in the dowel.

Please note: Umbrellas must be installed in such a way that their caps do not rise, but are recessed 1-2 mm into the foam.

The places where the dowels are driven in must subsequently be covered with an adhesive mixture.

Of course, insulating a cinder block house using the method described above is not all that can be done to improve its energy efficiency.

You can also carry out a number of insulation measures inside the building and install a more economical heating system in it.

However, by performing only external insulation correctly, you can already significantly save your costs during the heating season.

Armopoyas

An armored belt is a monolithic concrete reinforced structure that lies on the walls of a house or foundation and evenly distributes loads. An armored belt is built to strengthen the masonry, to uniformly transfer the load from the floors, and to install the mauerlat.

When constructing an armored belt under the Mauerlat, studs, anchors, pieces of reinforcement or wire protruding outwards are left in it for later stringing the Mauerlat timber. It is recommended to build an armored belt under the Mauerlat, even if the walls are made of solid brick.

An armored belt can be poured on top of the foundation if the foundation is old or simply “weak,” or the foundation is not monolithic, but built from FBS. Another option: a reinforced concrete belt on top of the masonry walls of the basement.

The armored belt is almost always closed in a “ring”. An open armored belt can be obtained, for example, during its construction to fasten a mauerlat beam in a case where it is impossible to make a single “ring”. In this case, they try to reduce the expansion pressure of the rafters as much as possible.

Armored belts are almost always poured if the walls of the house are built from cellular concrete blocks. The reason is that these blocks are not very strong, and they can shrink unevenly. The armored belt gives spatial rigidity to such walls. It also prevents the floor slabs from collapsing the blocks because the floor slabs may have a shallow bearing area.

In houses from cellular concrete The first armored belt is poured over the walls of the first floor, and floor slabs are already placed on it, the load from which is evenly distributed by the armored belt. The second armored belt is already poured over the walls of the second floor to secure the Mauerlat.

The width of the armored belt can be equal to the width of the wall. If you make it narrower, you will need additional elements installed with outside walls. The height is usually 30 cm.

We must remember that the armored belt becomes a very strong bridge of cold, because... Reinforced concrete has a high thermal conductivity coefficient. Therefore, it is imperative to insulate it from the outside. Another option is to use an additional block and insulation when filling the belt.

The formwork is attached to the walls; the boards/sheets at the top must be connected crosswise so that the mortar does not push apart the walls of the formwork. It is necessary to make sure that the entire formwork structure is rigid in all places. Frozen in irregular shape concrete will create several problems later. And cutting off the excess is actually very difficult.

Some people fill the armored belt simultaneously with window lintels or even as window lintels. In this case, you need to consider the design of insulation of the space above the window in order to remove the cold bridge.

The armored belt must be poured at a time to avoid the formation of a cold concrete seam (the junction of hardened and unhardened concrete).

A normal manufacturer of wall blocks should have brochures that describe everything technical units, including reinforced concrete belt (if required for these blocks).

Aerated concrete is an excellent alternative brick. However, unfortunately, the strength indicator of aerated concrete blocks is much lower. The material does not hold fasteners on its surface well.

Masonry made of aerated concrete blocks has its own characteristics:

1. The construction of walls must be carried out on a reliable foundation.
2. During work, it is necessary to regularly check the evenness of the structure.
3. Along the entire perimeter of the building, the walls should be reinforced with a reinforced belt made of reinforced concrete.

When conducting construction work with violation technological rules Cracking of blocks may occur under the influence of roof pressure.

The meaning of the armored belt

Reinforced belt is called monolithic design located around the entire perimeter of the building. The armored belt protects the walls of the house from destruction and deformation under the influence of loads. The technology for strengthening the wall surface of an object involves laying a load-bearing belt between the floors of each floor and in the place of roofing.

To ensure the functionality of the armored belt, its structure must be:

1. Continuous.
2. In a ring style.
3. Closed.

The main components of the armored belt:

• Reinforcement frame.
• Concrete mixture.
• Formwork or blocks.

The purpose of the design is:

• In distribution load bearing from additional floors or roofs to walls in order to give them strength.
• To protect the foundation and walls from cracks.
• To increase the spatial rigidity of the building.

The design ensures strength and reliability load-bearing walls, increases the resistance of the structure to wind, temperature changes, seismic vibrations, shrinkage of the soil and the construction site itself.

Dimensions of armored belt

The dimensions of the armored belt depend on design feature building material to which it needs to be attached. The wall can be internal or external. For each category, builders consider their own specific requirements regarding the size of the structure.

1. The internal structure is reinforced with an armored belt with a width corresponding to the thickness of the wall.
2. When strengthening a house from the outside, the width of the protective belt should correspond to the width of the wall, excluding insulation and formwork.
3. The minimum height of the structure is one hundred and fifty millimeters. This indicator cannot be greater than the width of the wall.

Options for creating an armored belt

It is possible to install a unloading belt for walls made of aerated concrete blocks in several ways:

1. Using wooden formwork.
2. Using additional blocks.

When comparing these two methods, it can be noted that equipping walls with an armored belt using wooden formwork is technologically more difficult to implement. The second method, using additional blocks, is much simpler, but you will have to invest more money in it due to the use of expensive building material.

The unloading belt is not laid:

• Under a solid reinforced concrete structure.
• Under wooden floors, resting on blocks.

In the case, it is enough to pour concrete platforms five centimeters thick under the beams, playing a supporting role, which will reliably protect building blocks from pushing.

IN reinforced concrete structures there's no point in additional protection due to the uniform distribution of the load on the walls

Creating an armored belt using formwork

The formwork for the unloading belt is wooden frame. It is made from scraps of boards fastened together along the outside.

After implementation complete assembly formwork, its lower part is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, and the upper part with transverse board ties at intervals of eighty to one hundred centimeters. The screed is necessary to make the structure reliable, otherwise when pouring concrete, it may be deformed or crushed.

Before constructing the structure, you should first worry about purchasing the necessary building materials:

1. Edged boards, minimum thickness three centimeters and a 40x40 beam for making formwork.
2. Nails for fastening the plank structure to the wall.
3. Flexible wire to add rigidity to the structure.
4. Reinforcing bars with a diameter of twelve millimeters.
5. Expanded polystyrene for insulation.

Construction tools used:

1. Drill.
2. Hacksaw.

Formwork construction technology

The technological process involves performing work in several stages:

1. Preparation wooden shields.
2. Laying a layer of polystyrene between the wall of the house and a wooden panel for insulation purposes.
3. Fastening the structure to the wall with self-tapping screws or long nails.
4. Additional fastening of wooden structure elements using self-tapping screws and wire.
5. Assembly of the reinforcement frame. First, you should lay the reinforcing pins inside the wooden panels. Flexible wire is used to connect the reinforcement to the frame. It is not recommended to fasten the reinforcement to each other by welding due to rusting of the material inside the concrete.
6. Fill cement mortar.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement is made from reinforcement rods with a diameter of eight to twelve millimeters.

The principle of the process is:

1. IN horizontal laying twigs
2. They are fastened with an overlap using flexible knitting wire along the entire perimeter of the wall.
3. In tying the joints with rings of wire with a diameter of six millimeters.

Knitting of reinforcing bars should be done directly in the formwork. IN finished form reinforcement cage heavy. If the structure is assembled separately, it will be difficult to lift and place it. It is recommended to lay a layer of stones or bricks between the aerated concrete blocks and the frame of the unloading belt.

1. Pouring concrete

When purchasing dry concrete mixture It is necessary to use material markings not lower than M200.

If there is no product of the required specification in the store, you can prepare it yourself using following proportions in the ratio of components:

• Crushed stone - 4.8 parts.
• Cement – ​​1 part.
• Sand – 2.8 parts.

To increase the density of the composition, crushed stone can be replaced with gravel. After mixing the dry elements, add water in small portions, the amount of which should correspond to twenty percent of the total amount of the mixture.

The concrete pouring technology provides standards for performing work that should be performed to obtain the desired functional result:

1. Pouring must be carried out in one cycle without interruption, avoiding partial drying of the concrete layer.
2. It is necessary to avoid bubbles with emptiness in the filling solution, which in the future, when the mixture dries, will reduce the strength characteristics of the structure.
3. After pouring, it is recommended to compact the concrete using a hammer drill with a special attachment. Also, to eliminate voids in the solution, a vibrating machine is used, and if it is absent, air bubbles will have to be removed by pinning the solution with reinforcement.

2. Construction of an unloading belt using blocks

The formwork can be used not wooden structures, and the aerated concrete blocks are U-shaped Mandatory condition This type of building material is characterized by the presence of an internal cavity, which is necessary for laying a frame of reinforcement and pouring concrete.

Tray-type blocks are laid the same width as the walls. It is convenient to install such a belt on external walls because it performs an additional insulating function, while eliminating the formation of cold “bridges”.

3. What you need

The method is simple and requires the prior purchase of building material - ten-centimeter-thick prefabricated blocks. Please make a calculation before purchasing required quantity material based on the planned height of the structure and the perimeter of the object.

The process of manufacturing an armored belt structure using additional blocks

1. Installation of additional blocks on the wall in the usual manner.
2. Reinforcement of the central part of the building material.
3. Pouring the resulting structure with cement mortar.

Brick armored belt

The loading belt can be constructed using reinforced brickwork reinforcement mesh. It is less reliable than concrete and is only applicable for small outbuildings. To increase strength indicators brick construction It is recommended to use reinforcement or metal welded mesh.

Features of the structure:

1. When using reinforcing mesh with a cross-sectional diameter of five millimeters, it is recommended to lay it through four rows of bricks.
2. The width of the structure must correspond to the thickness of the wall of the building being processed.
3. The height of the structure depends on the type of building material of the walls of the house and on the type of roof. average value construction for a wall made of aerated concrete blocks is forty centimeters.

Strengthening walls with bricks with built-in reinforcement mesh cannot fully replace adding reliability structural elements using a reinforced concrete analogue.

Insulation of armored belt

The most important feature of aerated concrete is its low thermal conductivity, which ensures that a structure built from it does not freeze, even at the lowest ambient temperature. Therefore, when constructing a reinforcing structure, it is important that it does not violate thermal insulation properties Houses.

During the cold season, as well as during periods of sudden temperature changes, condensation may occur on the reinforced belt. In order to avoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to carry out work on insulating the structure.

Expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam and mineral wool can be used as insulating heat-insulating elements. In some cases they use aerated concrete blocks with partitions. When using mineral wool a small ventilation gap should be left between the insulation and the facing surface.

Adviсe organizational work for insulating the facility:

1. When constructing a structure for the purpose of its subsequent insulation, it should be done with an indentation from the outer edge of the wall, and not along its entire width.
2. The minimum width of the unloading belt should be twenty centimeters when used monolithic concrete and twenty-five centimeters in the case of using brick.
3. The resulting free space after filling the armored belt should be filled with insulation and covered with a foam block, previously cut to the required dimensions.

1. When pouring cement composition care should be taken that the elements reinforced mesh did not touch the formwork walls.
2. To increase the functionality of the armored belt, a frame made of reinforcement is installed on the surface using a level.
3. The strength of concrete after it is poured is facilitated by its periodic moistening, especially in hot weather. It is recommended to moisten the structure every day for five days. The best effect is achieved by covering the moistened surface with plastic film.
4. The formwork can be removed after a week, but it will function as intended only after two weeks, when the cement mixture has completely hardened.
5. If you plan to insulate the unloading belt, then you should not make it flush with the wall. Experts recommend shifting the formwork inward with the further purpose of filling the resulting niche with insulating, heat-insulating material.
6. There is no need to spend money on a reinforced belt if there is strong soil not saturated with water under the foundation, brick walls, and also when constructing one-story house With wooden beams, and not reinforced concrete panels.

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