How to make a wood milling machine with your own hands: detailed instructions and advice from experts. Making a wood milling machine with your own hands - step-by-step instructions and drawings Do-it-yourself universal wood milling machine

A home milling machine is an indispensable equipment for processing metal and other materials with your own hands. If you set a goal, you can build a mini-copy of industrial equipment, significantly saving on components, and the machine can additionally be equipped with turning functions. A homemade metal milling machine is quite easy to make; during the manufacturing process, you just need to be patient and have on hand detailed drawings typical of serial equipment.

Homemade metal milling machine with your own hands

A home router is an excellent assistant for processing metal or wooden products in cases where the use of hand tools will not bring the desired result. In this case, you can contact a workshop, but such services are not always cheap. With certain skills, you can assemble a simple metal milling machine or a more complex model with your own hands. Accordingly, more simple type A machine assembled on the basis of a conventional drill will have more modest functionality than a more complex one, equipped with a large number of components and powered by an electric motor. If you follow the instructions and drawings on the basis of which industrial samples of milling cutters are assembled, you can build a machine for your home workshop that is capable of performing complex technological operations: cutting products from metal or wood, processing surfaces of various configurations, making grooves, folds, splines, etc. When assembling the machine, you can rely on video instructions, which can be found in large quantities in the Internet.

But before you start assembling a homemade machine, we would like to warn you that, without knowing all the intricacies of assembling the device, it may ultimately turn out to be unsafe for use. Therefore, if you have any doubts about the operation of a device you assembled yourself, pay attention to CNC milling and engraving machines from the domestic manufacturer MULTICUT, which have a quality guarantee and high productivity.

Design and operating principle

DIY metal milling machine drawings

The basis of the milling machine is the bed, which must be rigidly fixed and strong enough to withstand the required load.

Second important element is hand drill or an electric motor that acts as a drive for a working tool, which is a sharpened cutter. To fix metal or wood workpieces, as well as place them for processing, a milling table equipped with special fasteners is used. All components must be High Quality, since the efficiency of the machine will depend on this. The power of a milling cutter, as well as its productivity, depend on the power of the drive and its maximum number of revolutions. Minimum power home machine should be 500 W, and to work with more hard metals you will need a 1.2-2 kW motor.

The equipment can be operated manually or automatically. The second type of machine is equipped with a CNC module, which allows minimizing human participation during processing, sharpening and other work with metal.

DIY mini metal milling machine

A hand-assembled mini-mill consists of an electric drive from a drill attached to a frame. To assemble a mini router, you will need the following materials:

Metal corners No. 25
Channel
Car jack
Square pipe profile 20
Metal pins for axles
Thick plywood
Morse cone
400 W electric drive
Drill chuck

The first step is to make a frame from a channel; the result should be a welded structure in the shape of the letter P. Next, vertical guides for moving the milling console are made from a metal corner that is bolted to the column. Direct vertical movement of the router console will be carried out using a diamond-shaped automobile jack over an amplitude of 10 cm. The guide consoles are made of a profile pipe, to which threaded metal pins are attached. The amplitude of lateral movement is 13 cm, and horizontally – approximately 9 cm.

A desktop is made from thick plywood, which is secured to a metal frame with screws. To achieve maximum strength of the working surface, plywood is lined with textolite. To do this, a blank is cut out in accordance with the dimensions of the plywood with allowances of 25 mm. Glue is applied to the textolite part, as well as to the surface of the plywood; after gluing, the procedure is repeated on the reverse side.

From a corner and a profile square pipe you need to weld a vice, which is installed on the tabletop, attached with self-tapping screws. A drill is attached to the welded jumpers in the frame with the spindle down. It is connected to a Morse taper with a drilling or collet chuck. Using such a mini-unit, you can process or manufacture products from soft metals - bronze, aluminum.

This model of router differs in that the drill itself is stationary, and only the console with the part moves. There is a second version of such a milling cutter, when the product is stationary and the drill is moved using an elevator along the machine. To make an elevator, you need to cut out a base plate from PCB and install it on the tabletop. A pair of parallel posts are attached to the plate, along which the carriage will move (using a pushing mechanism) with an attached mini-mill. The lift must be stable and rigid so that there is not the slightest play that could damage the product during processing.

DIY CNC metal milling machine

Do-it-yourself CNC milling machine for metal

A CNC machine is technologically more complex than a mini-milling machine, a tool consisting of the following components:

Ball screw drive. It is used to change rotational movements to reciprocating and vice versa.
Vertical, transverse and longitudinal guides. They are designed to drive a portal with a spindle vertically, a work table left and right, and move it along the frame.
Base for attaching all equipment.
A spindle in which a cutter for processing metal products is fixed.
Working surface (table)
Cooling system for cutter and spindle assembly.

A CNC router operates using software installed on a computer. The program creates a future product and calculates it into special codes recognized by the controller. The command is then sent to stepper motors, which move the spindle or router according to the contours of the workpiece. The machine itself is assembled in the following stages:

The first stage of assembling a CNC router is assembling the electric drive and the frame on which the components and the machine itself will be located. It must have a strong and rigid structure and be located on a flat surface. The electric drive power of a CNC machine should be 1-2 kW. In its role, you can use a stationary electric motor or an electric drive from any powerful hand tool with a high number of revolutions.
The milling console, columns, all guides and stepper motors. At this stage, it is necessary to ensure that sliding along the guides is smooth and smooth. In addition, at this stage of assembling the CNC router, the reliability of fastening of all mechanisms and their functionality are checked. The name and exact number of required elements must be found in the exact instructions and drawings.
On final stage The functionality of the entire machine is checked before installing the software.
The controller elements are connected to each other in accordance with the diagram, connected to the computer on which the software and all necessary drivers. Once the software is installed, you need to download the required part sketches. After this it is selected required material, installed on work surface, as well as the type of cutter for this material.

Work on the equipment should only be carried out after familiarization with the safety regulations. This applies to both the CNC router and the mini-unit. First, it is necessary to use protective equipment for the eyes and exposed parts of the body from metal shavings. Secondly, you need to ensure that the milling unit does not overheat, otherwise it may break into pieces, causing harm to health. Thirdly, all electronics and networks must be grounded, and electrical network must be protected against short circuits.

DIY metal milling machine: video

Now you can buy everything. In principle, the simplest milling machine will cost approximately 17,000 – 21,000 rubles (“Caliber” and a number of others). But cheap models have a number of disadvantages (for example, a commutator-type engine that requires regular maintenance), and not every owner is satisfied with the capabilities of industrial equipment.

It’s no secret that some options will be missing, while others will remain unclaimed, but you will still have to pay for them. Assembling a small wood milling machine with your own hands to suit your own needs is a good solution, especially since its design is not so complex that you cannot cope with this work yourself. Would like some examples of drawings. How to do everything correctly and what to take into account is the topic of this instructional article.

The whole attractiveness of making it yourself is that the choice of sizes, materials, type of connections and other assembly nuances is entirely at the discretion of the master. Much of what the owner has on hand will do, so you won’t have to buy practically anything.

Based on this, all the drawings below should be considered only as advisory and introductory. There is not and cannot be any standard for homemade milling machines. The main thing is that it allows us to solve the problems for which it is intended.

Electric motor

The feasibility of using a milling machine is determined by several criteria.

engine's type

Asynchronous - does not require maintenance, allows you to work with larger cutters. The noise generated is noted as a minus, but how important this is in the woodworking process, each owner will decide for himself.
Collector is a cheaper option. The disadvantage is that the brushes wear out gradually. Wear depends on the intensity of operation of the milling machine.

Power

< 0,5 кВт. Станки, оснащенные такими двигателями, подходят для поверхностной обработки заготовок. Как вариант, использование кромочных фрез для выборки пазов, но только если речь идет о сравнительно мягких породах дерева и небольших режущих инструментах.
Up to 1.2 kW. A more versatile model of a milling machine. Such equipment can also be used to perform deep wood processing. As a rule, this power is quite sufficient for domestic use.
Up to 2 kW. In fact, we are talking about a semi-professional machine that will allow you to work with any types of cutters and materials various densities. In addition to wood, it can be used for processing workpieces made of plastics and some soft metals. Most often - aluminum.

Speed

Here the instructions are simple. The more this characteristic, the cleaner the treated part of the wood will be. But that's not all. A high-speed engine is not afraid of wood defects such as knots. The cutter passes through these areas without problems.

Nutrition

In most cases, 220/50 engines are selected. There are no special problems with their installation and connection. It is more difficult with three-phase models. Does it make sense to run a separate line to connect the milling machine? This should be assessed. But if, for example, 3 f/380 is already installed in the garage, and the supply cable is laid with a load reserve, then an asynchronous “three-phase” is preferable. Smooth start and stop, increased power - such a machine will allow you to work with almost all wood samples and perform any operations.

Crafting table

Its linear parameters are selected in accordance with the dimensions of the wood blanks that will have to be worked with in the future. The dimensions of the table itself are not of fundamental importance. Especially if there is enough free space in your home workshop where you can install a milling machine.

Machine frame

It must not only be durable, but also withstand significant dynamic loads. The difference between a machine and a manual router is that the tool is in a fixed position, and the wood will have to be constantly moved during processing. From a practical point of view, it is not advisable to use wood for the frame. It gradually dries out, becomes covered with cracks, and its geometry is disrupted. This machine will have to be tuned regularly. But metal is the best option. A pipe (preferably square or rectangular) with a profile or a massive corner. Why?

Firstly, you can do without welding, using bolted connections. And the prefabricated/collapsible model is much more convenient if you have to change it periodically workplace or take it out while renovations are being carried out on the premises.

Secondly, if you have already decided to assemble a milling machine, then it is clear that it is not for disposable. Metal supports can be made adjustable. This will make it easier to level the table when installing it in any room or outside, even if the floors (ground) have some slope (which is most often the case).

Tabletop

But here the metal is not The best decision. It’s expensive, and the machine will be quite massive. And you can’t do without a welding machine.

What to use

Planed boards.
Plates (chipboard, MDF, OSV).
Multilayer plywood.

It is necessary to focus on the sufficient strength of the tabletop in relation to the specifics of the further operation of the milling machine. Based on this, its thickness and materials are selected.

The surface of the table should be smooth. Otherwise, precise milling of the material will not be possible. At the same time, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of scratches, otherwise the constant movement of workpieces will lead to gradual destruction of the tabletop. The result is poor processing quality due to distortions of the samples on the table.

Ideal surface evenness is ensured in several ways:

lamination (coating with thick plastic);
sheet metal upholstery;
precise fit of planed boards.

On thematic websites there are recommendations to use countertops from kitchen set. Great option, both in thickness and reliability, if not for one question - where to get it? Such “spare parts” are not lying around on the street. The materials that the author has indicated are quite suitable for a milling machine, even with a fairly powerful engine.

Milling machine assembly procedure

The main issue is the location of the engine. Optimal - lower, under the table. One or another cutter is installed on its shaft, directed vertically upward. To do this, a mounting plate with a cutout is attached to the back of the tabletop. round shape. The engine is fixed on it. Or a transmission (belt) is used, but this will complicate the design somewhat.

Another option is with a horizontal engine. Maybe such a milling machine will seem more convenient?

Additionally

It is necessary to consider the circuit diagram of the machine and the protection elements. What is absolutely recommended:

emergency stop button;
dust removal system;
backlight working area:
enclosing screen.

Clamps can come in handy during the milling process. With their help, for example, a small panel is mounted on a board, which serves as a guide. This is convenient when you have to process small (or thin) pieces of wood. For example, these.

Stationary (welded to the frame) clamps are not the best solution. It is much more convenient to work with removable devices that are easy to reinstall, depending on the specifics of milling.

Those who plan to start making small artistic crafts from wood can be advised to make a milling machine based on an electric drill. Mounting it on a tripod is easy.

Or so. For making grooves and chamfering, this is a good solution.

The tool will be clamped, like a drill, in the chuck. But the scope of application of such mini-machines is very limited. Both in terms of engine power and the choice of cutters. The same applies to models based on the “grinder”.

There is enough information to make a simple model of a milling machine with your own hands. The assembly of more complex modifications - for example, with adjustable play - requires certain knowledge and calculations. Practice shows that to solve problems encountered in everyday life, all their capabilities are rarely used. In fact, this is already semi-professional equipment, so the author does not consider it advisable to consider the features of its design in this article.

With the advent of experience in wood processing, it will not be difficult to redo, improve, or modify something. You can assemble various devices for working with homemade cutters with your own hands. But all of these are somewhat different topics that require substantive consideration.

DIY milling table drawings

For ease of working with the router, craftsmen install it permanently and move the workpiece. When working in this way, we are no longer talking about a manual milling cutter, but the so-called “ milling table" In this article we will try to explain how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands.

Which router to choose

There are many types of routers. Before choosing one, you need to consider what purposes you will need it for. More complex workpieces will require a more powerful and resourceful router. Experts recommend choosing a router with manual adjustment and automatic spindle stabilization.

Milling cutters with soft start and quick stop systems are very convenient. And if the tool allows you to replace the motor brushes without opening the housing, then there will be no price for it at all. This is truly a significant plus.

In many operating instructions, manufacturers milling machines It is advised not to use it upside down when working. In general, these restrictions are not justified and can be ignored.

Advice: choose a router with a power of at least 2 kilowatts in order to confidently work with any wood. It should also have a speed control, which is usually found on all models. As for whether it’s worth buying brands like Bosch or Makita, my opinion is that if you work professionally and every day, then it’s worth it, but if for yourself, then an inexpensive Chinese one is enough.

Video do-it-yourself milling table

Milling table bed

An important part of the tool is a special frame (bed). This is a frame on supports, on top of which there is a tabletop. The frame can be made of any material: metal, wood, chipboard, etc.

The main thing is that it is tough and stable. Size too special significance does not have. It all depends on what size parts you will be working with.

To ensure comfortable work for the machine operator, the lower part of the bed must be deepened.

Thanks to this, the operator does not cling to the structure with his feet while working. We recommend making a bed with adjustable supports that will allow you to work on any uneven floor.

DIY wood milling machine is remarkable huge selection creation options. You can create it completely for yourself.

Table top

Nothing complicated here. One option is a regular kitchen countertop covered with special plastic. The workpiece will glide perfectly on the plastic, and the board will dampen vibrations well.

Router mounting plate on table

A plate with high strength and low thickness. As a rule, it is made of metal or textolite (the latter option is easier to use).

A rectangular plate with a hole in the center. The router is then attached to the mounting plate. In order to secure the tool with the plate to the table, four holes need to be drilled at the corners of the plate.

The simplest DIY milling table, drawings

Now we get to the essence of this article. So how to assemble a wood milling machine with your own hands? First, a tabletop is temporarily attached to the finished frame (bed). Then they put it on the tabletop mounting plate and mark its position. Next, using a router, select on the tabletop seat for the plate.

It should be installed perfectly with the top plane of the tabletop. Finally, it is necessary to mill the hole according to the shape of the router sole and connect it all together. Of course, you will have to tinker with some aspects, but the main thing is to follow all the instructions.

Upper clamp

For more comfortable work, the table can be equipped with an upper clamp. Regular will do ball bearing.

It will allow you to tightly fix the workpiece. This will allow you to improve the quality and speed of your work, as well as save your nerves and effort.

Safety

We need to focus on the most important thing – safety. Firstly, it is recommended to install a protective screen for the cutter. Secondly, equip the tool with an emergency stop button. The button should be in a place that is easily accessible to you, but at the same time, not interfere with your work. Thirdly, the work area can be additionally illuminated.

All these points will only add to your comfort at work, because you cannot skimp on safety. Create for your health.

sdelaj-sam.com

Do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router

One of the main assistants of a carpenter is a wood router. This hand tool indispensable when it is necessary in a wooden blank:

cut a groove;
make a groove;
execute finger joint;
process edges, etc.

However, when performing some carpentry work, it is not always convenient to use this tool due to the fact that you need to simultaneously hold the workpiece and operate the router. Therefore, many craftsmen resort to tricks by making a milling table for a hand router. With a table that is a reliable addition to your milling tool, you can achieve wooden elements the quality and accuracy are in no way inferior to joinery products made in professional furniture workshops on milling machines.

A homemade table for a manual router significantly increases the productivity of the tool and facilitates the work of processing wooden products. It is not difficult to make such equipment, and, in addition, unlike a standard milling table produced by various manufacturers, this table will have the dimensions, design and options chosen directly by the craftsman who makes it.

To perform any engineering work, and equipment manufacturing is one of these, it is necessary to draw up a sketch of the future machine. On it you need to indicate your vision of the project indicating actual sizes. Based on the sketch, you can easily select materials for the manufacture of the future structure, their quantity, determine the construction budget and stock up on the tools necessary for processing machine parts.

Option 1. Instructions for making a table for a manual router

Materials for making a milling table

To build a milling table you will need:

4 square bars;
chipboard and plywood scraps, the dimensions of which are determined when constructing the table drawing;
hardware (nuts, bolts, screws, hinges, etc.);
jack;
metallic profile;
six-millimeter steel plate;
aluminum guides;
movable carriage-support (guide from the saw);
manual frezer.

Drawing of a homemade milling table (option 1)

In any case, before you start making any such table, the drawing must be completed indicating all dimensions and determining the location of the working elements relative to each other.

Step by step assembly

Let us consider in detail each step in the manufacture and fastening of each element of a homemade milling table.

1st step. To make a stationary base for the table, you will need bars and chipboard cuttings, from which we twist the legs and further strengthen the rigidity with the help of horizontal connecting panels made of plywood. In the right side part we cut a hole for the start button, which will be connected to the hand router.

2nd step. The table top is made of chipboard. We make it liftable together with a router, for which we install hinges and make an additional support base from 15 mm plywood.

3rd step. To move the workpiece smoothly along the table, for example, to cut a groove in it, a moving carriage-stop is used. We cut a groove in the tabletop for the guides of the movable stop and install a metal profile into it. As a stop carriage, you can use a guide from old saw.

4th step. We also make the longitudinal stop from chipboard and make it movable to adjust the gaps around the cutter. To ensure mobility, we cut perpendicular grooves in the upper part of the stop and fasten the stop to the tabletop with clamps. We cut a small groove in the middle to suck out chips and other milling waste.

5th step. From thin plywood we make a box with a hole for connecting a vacuum cleaner hose, which will remove dust and shavings formed during the milling process. We fasten the box behind the perpendicular stop.

6th step. We take a six-millimeter steel plate and screw it to the tabletop flush with the surface. During the fastening process, we make sure that its edges do not protrude above the tabletop, otherwise the parts being processed will cling to them. A manual router will be attached to the plate from below.

7th step. We attach the router by the aluminum base to the bottom of the plate using bolts, but do not forget to pre-drill holes for the bolts in the base. Attaching the hand tool to a removable plate rather than directly to the table saves routing depth and allows for easy cutter changes.

8th step. We are building a router lift. To do this, we use a car jack, which allows us to change the height of the cutter with maximum accuracy.

9th step. We remove the handles from the router and instead screw in aluminum guides, which we connect to the jack mechanism.

Design and video of a homemade milling table for a manual router

Before you start making a milling table, you need to accurately determine its design features. This article provides instructions on how to make a simple router table. For other details of the first assembly option, see the video below.

We check the reliability of fastening of all elements - and the milling table is ready with your own hands!

We offer several more models of wood milling machines made by yourself for your taste.

Option 2. Another milling table and other assembly features

We offer a table design for a router with a detailed analysis of its components.

Materials and tools.

In order to make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

metal corner or pipe (for frame);
aluminum guide;
axles for attaching the router;
putty, primer and paint for metal;
self-tapping screws; furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm;
Hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts – 4 pcs. ;
Finnish moisture-resistant laminated plywood, 18 mm thick (you can use another material);
boards or plywood scraps (for making a rip fence).

The following tools are also required:

welding machine (for metal frame table);
drill and drill bits;
screwdriver;
jigsaw;
milling cutter;
spatula, brushes, rags.

Basic drawings

Part Dimensions

Design features of the milling table

An existing workbench can be adapted for a milling machine. But it is more expedient, to eliminate the influence of strong vibration during operation of the cutter, to make separate design, ensuring the stability of the table.

The main loads during equipment operation are transferred to the base. Therefore, the frame must be reliable and stable. The bed is understood as a fixed base on which the router is located. It takes all the loads and is a structure in the form of a table with a fixed lid. It can be made from a metal pipe, angle, channel, wood, chipboard.

It is necessary to take into account that the router itself is attached to the tabletop from below, which means that there needs to be empty space there.

The router is attached to the table through a high-strength and rigid plate to perform installation work. It is preferable to make it from metal, textolite or tongue and groove board.

The base of the router has threaded mounting holes for mounting. If there are no threaded holes, threading is done independently. If the task is impossible, secure the milling device using special clamps.

Start the work by using a milling cutter to select the shape and thickness of the mounting plate. To make it easier, straight corners on the mounting plate must be rounded with a file. A recess in the table top ensures that the plate is positioned flush with the tabletop.

Make a hole in the center of the plate for the tool to exit, drill holes for attaching the plate to the table. The next step is to drill holes to attach the milling device; keep in mind that the fasteners must be countersunk.

How to make a work surface and base

Making the base of the future milling table begins with the frame. For ease of work, the table cover should protrude 100-200 mm from the front part. Special attention When designing the frame of the bed, pay attention to the installation height of the working surface. This size is decisive for the convenience of working at the machine. According to ergonomic requirements, it should be 850-900 mm, depending on the person’s height. For convenient operation of the future milling machine, you can install height adjusters at the bottom of the support. This will allow, if necessary, to change the height of the table; if the floor is uneven, it will help to align the tabletop.

A Soviet-era kitchen countertop will be useful as a working surface for the future machine. Most often it is made of 36 mm chipboard sheet, covered with plastic. The wood-based material will reduce the vibrations that occur during the milling process, and the plastic coating will ensure excellent movement along the surface of the workpiece. If you don't have an old countertop, use MDF boards or laminated chipboard, with a thickness of at least 16 mm.

Choose a place for the future milling machine in your workshop; the dimensions and type of future design depend on this. This may be an aggregate machine located on the side circular saw, desktop version, or maybe stand-alone stationary machine.

If the use of a milling machine is not regular, reduced to one-time work from time to time, it is enough to make a small compact table.

https://o-builder.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Universal-milling-table.-Router-table..mp4

You can make a milling machine yourself. It is a design that fits on a standard table. To work you will need a chipboard and two boards. Fasten two boards parallel to a sheet of chipboard. Attach one of them to the tabletop with bolts; it will serve as a guide and as a stop. Use the second one as a limiting stop. Cut a hole in the table top to accommodate the router. Attach the router to the table top using clamps. The compact milling machine is ready.

If you have a lot of free space in your workshop, then make a full-fledged stationary milling machine. It will be more convenient to work on it than on the desktop version

Option 3. Cheap homemade router table

The sketch is ready. Materials have been purchased. The tool, laid out in its place in the workshop, is waiting for the moment to serve its owner. The master is also serious and is not going to grab everything at once. He will sort everything out and do everything step by step.

Start by making the frame of the future machine. You can use the following method for making a frame. profile pipe Using a grinder, cut the 25×25 to size, then weld the blanks intended for the frame on which the working surface will be located. Weld a pipe on one side along which the parallel stop will subsequently move. Weld 4 supports to the frame.

To fix the table top, frame the perimeter of the frame with a corner, then it will sit in the recess.

Use the second method of making a frame. It implies additional supports for the working surface. Weld stops for milling equipment in the middle of the table. The size between them must match convenient fastening milling cutter.

For structural stability, connect the lower supports with jumpers at a height of 200 mm from the floor.

Paint the resulting structure. Why prepare surfaces: clean metal pipes and degrease with solvent, then prime. If there is a need to putty surfaces, apply a special putty mixture and apply primer. After complete drying, paint with PF-115 enamel.

Cut the work surface according internal size frame, install it tightly in the corners. Then drill holes in the upper frame for fastening the table cover. Mark the tabletop itself, drill and securely connect it to the frame using furniture bolts. Table dimensions 850×600×900.

Step back 200-250 mm from the edge and cut a T-shaped guide along the length of the working surface.

Trim half of the milling axes. This will make it possible to almost double the distance from the sole to the guide axis, which in turn will expand the range of capabilities of the tool.

Remove the sole from the milling equipment, mark holes in the middle of the working surface of the table for its fastening and drill them. Drill a hole in the middle of the table cover for the device. On both sides of it, drill holes for attaching the clamps of the router axes.

On bottom side tabletops, make a sample for the sole of the milling device.

On both sides of the hole drilled through the hole, make grooves for installing the router axes. The size of the groove and the axis must match.

Along the edges of the grooves, use a Faustner drill (picture above) to drill holes for the hexagon adjustment bolts.

Cut two pieces of pipe to fit the width of the large groove and drill holes in the center for the permanent bolts. They will serve as clamps for the axes of the milling device. Screw the nuts onto the bolts.

Install hexagon bolts and nuts on both sides of the axles to adjust the plane of the milling equipment.

Now make a rip fence. Take a small piece of plywood and cut a groove in it so that it can move along the pipe that was previously welded for this purpose. Using a jigsaw, cut three strips of identical size, where its length is equal to the sum of the length of the table and the width of the guide pipe, and four plates for them in the form of stiffeners.

On lane No. 1, make a floor round hole for removing wood waste. It should coincide with the slot in the working surface of the table. In strip #2, cut a square hole in the same location.

Cut strip No. 3 of plywood into equal parts. Attach one to the back of the strip with square hole bolts or using guides. The plywood halves should move in opposite directions. Install an aluminum guide along the upper edge of this strip.

Fasten plates No. 1 and No. 2 together with the sides with half holes. Fasten two stiffening ribs along the edge of the resulting hole and two on the sides at a distance of 70-100 mm from the edge.

Cut a square of plywood to the size of the distance between the ribs, cut a hole in it the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose. Attach the square to the stiffeners.

Secure the rip fence with clamps. This is done to make it easier to move the stop. If it is intended only for a milling machine, then secure it with brackets with grooves for movement.

Weld a bolt to a 6 mm thick metal strip. Make the clamps from wood with two grooves for two bolts.

Install the milling equipment: insert the cut axes into the side holes of the device, put nuts on them and secure the device with pipe clamps.

Turn the table over and use the hex key to lift up the router.

To make it easier to lift the router, it is advisable to install a lift based on a jack.

Option 4. Milling machine based on a desk

A milling machine based on a desk is considered an economical and convenient solution. The list of photo drawings contains a table with specifications of parts by size and recommended material.

Part sizes and materials

How to make a mounting plate

Due to the thickness of the table top, in order to maximize the output cutting tool, it is necessary to take a smaller thickness of the mounting plate. It follows from this that, with a small thickness, it should have sufficient strength.

The plate can be metal or textolite. These materials best meet the requirements of strength and rigidity. The optimal plate thickness should be 6 mm. It is made in a rectangular shape, a hole is drilled in the middle of the part with a diameter corresponding to the hole on the base of the router. To increase the range of use of the tool, rings of different diameters are used. There are holes in the plate for connecting to the router and attaching it to the tabletop.

The holes in the plate must match the location and size of the holes on the base of the router. To accurately mark the plate, you need to draw a sketch with dimensions or secure it on the table using clamps.

The nuances of assembling a milling table with your own hands

When assembling the milling device, secure a metal ruler at the ends of the width of the table top; this will make it possible to set the parallel fence to the correct size and strictly parallel.

On the back side of the table cover, make holes for subsequent installation of the dust collector casing, additional equipment. The drawings and photos provided will help you correctly manufacture all components.

To make it easier to turn on and safely turn off your DIY milling machine, install a mushroom-shaped start button and a stop button on the tabletop.

Option 5. Small benchtop router table

A small tabletop milling table and a detailed analysis of its manufacture are shown in the photo.

How to make a top clamp

To process large parts and create safe working conditions on the machine, the so-called top clamp is used. Its production is based on the use of a roller. Before constructing this device, develop a drawing of it.

The roller can be a ball bearing. Its installation is carried out on a special device, which makes it possible to fix the workpiece at any distance from the working surface.

Milling machine drive power

As a drive for a milling machine, it is most advisable to use an electric motor with a power of 1.1-2 kW and a speed of 3000 per minute. When using a low-power electric motor, it will not be possible to use any cutter; the machine will not have enough power. If the speed is too low, a poor-quality cut will be obtained.

You have familiarized yourself with several options for solving the issue; how to get a milling table. Which one you like is your choice. We will be glad if we were able to help you

o-builder.ru

How to make a milling table with your own hands

Compared to hand tools, a DIY milling table allows you to obtain a more precise degree of processing of the material. A rigidly mounted router confidently cuts various types of wood, plastic, and coated chipboards. It is possible not only to chamfer, but also to make a groove, a spline, a slot, a tenon, a groove, and a profile cut.

Homemade milling table

How to choose a practical option

Eat different ways make a homemade milling table, but the design principles of most models are the same.

First, choose one of 3 types of milling installation, which determines the dimensions and location of this equipment in the carpentry workshop:

Mounted. A separate assembly unit that is attached to sawing machine on the side with clamps. Allows you to use the working surface of other equipment, can be easily removed, and put aside with your own hands when not needed.
Portable. A desktop modification that is sought to be made with the minimum required dimensions of the bed and milling table. An efficient machine to use when frequently moving around construction sites.
Stationary. The main type of table for established production, provided there is sufficient space in the room. This is no longer just a milling cutter, but an equipped workplace.

You need to develop a drawing of the future table with your own hands, already knowing the installation dimensions and the weight of the milling part (with motor). The cross-section and location of the load-bearing elements must combine strength and easy access for installation and maintenance.

DIY materials

The working plane of the table ensures smooth sliding of the workpiece in one plane. They do this task well laminated chipboard sheets, MDF. To prevent the tabletop from bending under the weight of the router, take a slab with a cross section of 2.6/3.6 cm. For the side parts, a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 1.6 cm or more is sufficient.

The mounting plate on which a massive router is attached, by definition, has high strength and rigidity. From sheet materials Metal, textolite, and hardwood plywood are suitable for it. The thickness of the plate does not exceed 0.8 cm.

Bearing support tables are made with your own hands from metal profile, sheet chipboard. Sometimes these are just legs with elements of rigidity, in other cases the table includes front-mounted drawers for tools, small equipment, and utility devices.

The main part - the milling cutter - is purchased from industrial production.

Electric motor power for woodworking starts at 500 W. Full milling of hardwood requires power in excess of 1 kW (up to 2 kW). Voltage 230/380 V. Most models have speed control.

Additional devices

The creative use of additional equipment in the design of a homemade milling table can significantly expand its functionality. You can achieve smooth adjustment of the height of the cutting part above the plate if you make a lift for the working tool with your own hands. For this purpose, the vertical axis of the assembly rests on a screw with a fine rectangular thread passing through a fixed nut. Rotating the flywheel on the rod regulates the feed of the cutter. The mechanism is equipped with side stops to prevent bending and a lock nut to hold it in a given position during vibration. If possible, they install more complex elevators - a car jack, a tailstock from lathe.

Another addition is a steel ruler along the longitudinal axis of the guides of the workpiece. Practical, convenient, allows you to control the sample size, frees your hands for other operations.

Tool

To make all the details of the milling table with your own hands you will need:

hacksaw, electric jigsaw;
emery, grinding machine;
electric planer;
drill;
chisel;
screwdriver, screwdriver.

Use of electrical mechanical tool speeds up work on the manufacture of tabletops, guides, oblique stops, but, if necessary, operations can be performed with your own hands and with hand tools.

Required quality, which a table for a manual router with your own hands must have - resistance to vibration. Using used workbenches does not always solve this problem.

Milling table device

bed

The legs on the side where the carpenter is located are placed a little further from the edge of the table (0.1-0.2 m) for stable placement of the legs. The control panel is also located here.

The height above the floor is set with adjustable supports in the range of 0.85 - 0.9 m.

The size of the upper working plane will largely determine the size of the intended raw material. On average, it is enough to make 1.5 × 0.5 m. Based on this, set the distance between the supporting places of the frame.

Attachment of the working element

The router is brought to the tabletop from below, a mounting plate is placed on top, and they are tightened with 4 screws with countersunk heads. The upper plane of the table should be without protrusions and depressions. To do this, the plate must fit into a pre-cut recess, which must be made exactly along its outer contour. Drill 4 through holes for the bolts. Additional fastening to wood is provided with self-tapping screws.

The shape of the plate is transferred from the lining of the router sole. The inner part is cut out in the form of a square frame with sufficient margins to accommodate holes for fastening bolts.

You need to make a round hole in the table board, large enough for the cutter to fit through. An opening that is too wide is covered with additional rings - liners to prevent material scuffing during milling.

Work area equipment

The following devices on the milling table are designed to maintain the accuracy of milling processing and the direction of feed of the workpiece:

Guides. They are located along the lumber supply line to support the board on established amount protrusion of milling knives. They can be made from the same chipboard as the body. 3 strips are cut along the length of the table. In 2 of them, an opening is cut out for the cutter: the first is semicircular (the board will lie horizontally), the second is rectangular in its height (it will lie vertically). The guides are placed at right angles and secured with 4 oblique stops. In the horizontal one, slots are made for bolts to adjust the output of the cutter. The third plank is cut in half and placed on front side corner. By moving apart, it maintains a minimum gap between the rotating knives and the fixed stop. It is fixed with self-tapping screws and an overhead plate in the upper part.
Clamps. It can be made in the form of a wooden comb (maple plate with uniform cuts of 2×50 mm with a step of 5 mm along the grain) or a ball bearing of the required weight and size.

Lid. On the back side of the guides, the rotating head must be closed for safety reasons.

An additional option may be a pipe for connecting a vacuum cleaner, placed under the cutter cover.

Finishing touch

After assembly, all parts are ground and working surfaces are polished. The sides and bottom are painted and varnished. The electrical part is covered with a metal sleeve.

stankiexpert.ru

DIY milling machine. Making a milling machine at home

A milling machine for wood or metal in a personal workshop greatly simplifies the life of a home craftsman. True, not everyone can afford it. What if you make it yourself? This is quite possibly worth wanting. And in this article we will tell you how to do it.

Why do you need a homemade milling machine?

Most often, a milling machine is needed for wood processing when you need:

cut some curved surface or workpiece irregular shape;
select grooves, folds, splines, etc.;
perform cross planing.

Milling machine device

The main elements of a milling machine are:

bed;
drive unit;
table;
cutting tool.

How to make a milling machine so that it works flawlessly and is inexpensive? Next, we'll look at everything step by step. The technical characteristics of a milling machine depend on the following parameters:

table dimensions;
maximum weight and dimensions of the part that can be processed on it;
drive power;
number of revolutions.

Making a table

There are many designs for milling machines, but we will look at the design of a table for the machine, a sketch of which is given below.

What is needed to make it

To make a milling machine table with your own hands you will need:

Plywood, plexiglass, steel or duralumin sheet, textolite, MDF, chipboard, in general, whichever is more affordable for you. This material will be used to make the table.
Contact glue.
Double-sided tape.
Fine-grit sandpaper.
Jigsaw.
Router with copying cutter with top bearing.
Clamps.
Jointer.
Hardware.
Plexiglas 6 mm for the shield.
Board 20 mm thick.
Aluminum, polycarbonate or phenolic plastic for making the mounting plate.
Aluminum profile with T-slot.
Equipment needed cutting machine or a circular saw.

Making the lid

Let's start with the lid. The material we use is 19 mm thick plywood. The lid dimensions are as follows:

width - 0.5 m;
length - 0.6 m.

To improve the characteristics of the milling machine, we will increase the strength of the table and make a lining of PCB with a thickness of 2 mm. To do this, cut out a sheet of the same dimensions as the first one from plywood.

Important: when cutting out the lid and lining, be sure to add 2.5 cm allowances to the specified dimensions.

Apply a layer of glue to the back side of the PCB and the top of the plywood.
We retreat 0.3 cm from the edge of the plywood sheet and glue the textolite by going over it with a rubber roller.
We place the workpiece on a cutting machine or circular saw so that the edge of the plywood sheet is pressed against the stop. We retreat 6 mm from the stop and saw off the plywood and the PCB cladding at the same time. Turn the workpiece over and repeat the same from the opposite edge.
We push the processed edges all the way and cut the slab to the required size.
We cut out longitudinal and side pads from plywood with the following dimensions:

for longitudinal - width 0.4 cm, length 70 cm;
for the side - the width is the same, and the length is 60 cm.

Now let’s make an auxiliary part to evenly glue the edge trims:

take 4 pieces of plywood measuring 10x10 cm;
cut out 5x5 cm grooves in each;
we secure them with clamps at the corners of the lid;
We attach the overlays with glue to the edges of the table cover and fix them with clamps, placing something from wooden waste under the bottom.

7. We press our pads to the installed auxiliary part and glue them to the edges of the cover. Through the grooves made earlier, we will be able to see whether the linings at the corners are joined correctly.

8. We install a 19 mm thick disk cutter on the cutting machine, and attach a 25 cm high wooden overlay to the stop.

9. Adjust the cutter and stop so that you can select the tongues in the edge trims. The settings need to be precise, so we first check them on unnecessary scraps.

10. We press the cover against the stop, with the side covered with textolite, and select the tongues in the side edge trims. They are needed to install aluminum profile.

11. Take any scrap and cut out a tongue in it using the same disk cutter. We check how the miter gauge slide moves in it. If it moves normally with minimal play, then we cut out the same groove in the lid, placing it with the plywood facing up.

Important: chips may appear at the end of the path of the disk cutter, so place some support under the table cover.

Preparing space for the mounting plate

To install the router mounting plate, you need to make a cut in the table. All this is done in the following sequence:

Cut a square with a side of 29.8 cm from aluminum or other material. This is the mounting plate.
We draw a line on the lid, 12.5 cm from the front edge, then divide it in half.
We place the mounting plate on the table so that the point of intersection of the diagonals of the square coincides with the middle of the drawn line. We trace the plate along the contour.
We remove the plate and, stepping back from the edges of the contour by 1.2 cm, draw the outline of the cutout:

5. Drill a hole for the jigsaw to fit through and cut out the cutout.

6. Place the plate in the outline and secure it with 2-sided tape.

7. Along the contour of the plate, we first lay cardboard spacers, and then technological strips and secure them with clamps.

8. Remove the gaskets and mounting plate. We take the router, and resting its sole against the technological strips, we adjust the tool to a milling depth of the table top of 0.3 cm.

9. We control the cutter bearing so that it passes along the edges of the technological strips. At the same time, we make shallow passes with a gradual increase in the overhang of the cutter. We finish the work when the sampling depth becomes 0.5 mm greater than the thickness of the plate.

To complete the manufacture of the milling machine table with your own hands, we perform the following operations:

grind the longitudinal and lateral edge trims using sandpaper;
We blunt the edges of the plastic around the recess for the mounting plate.

We make the base

To make the base of a homemade milling machine, we use the same 1.9 cm thick plywood as for the table top:

Cut out 2 legs 52 cm high and 29 cm wide.
We prepare 4 ties, the width of which is 8 cm and the length is 52 cm.
We decorate the edges of the ties and legs with 12-degree bevels.
To attach the power cord, we cut out a bar with dimensions of 19x50x42 mm under it.
We glue the ties and legs to each other and fix the structure using clamps.
We drill holes for the ties. Then we insert screws into them and remove the clamps.
We glue a strip to the screed for attaching the cord. We secure it with clamps.
We sand the legs with fine sandpaper.
We turn the lid over and place it on the workbench, attach it to it with glue, assembled structure. We fix it with clamps.
We make holes in the screed, penetrating further into the cover, for screws with a diameter of 4.5 mm, a length of 3.2 cm with countersunk head.
We screw in the screws and remove the clamps.

This diagram of a milling machine shows a longitudinal stop and a pressure comb.

Let's start making the stop:

We cut out a wall measuring 1.9x15x66 cm.
Let's make the base. Dimensions - 1.9x8x66 cm.
We cut out 2 gussets for the dust extraction pipe. Dimensions - 1.9x6.5x8 cm.
We cut out 2 end plates with dimensions of 1.9x12x19 cm.
We process one edge on each workpiece with a jointer.
We file the raw edges on a cutting machine or circular saw, setting the longitudinal stop at a distance equal to the finishing width of the part + 1 mm, and then joint them.
We measure the finished lid, add another 0.1 cm. We file the stop and its base, matching its length with the size of the lid.
In the middle of the stop and base, we cut out grooves of 3.8x3.8 cm with a jigsaw.
Glue these 2 parts together and clamp them with clamps.
We cut out 2 blanks, from which we will subsequently make end plates. Their dimensions are 1.9x12x19 cm. We glue them with tape.
We draw a diagonal on the upper workpiece, which is the cutting line. We retreat 1.6 cm from the bottom of the plate, and 4.5 cm from the left edge and draw straight lines, their intersection will be the center of a hole with a diameter of 0.6 cm.
We cut out the details. We grind the edges, drill a hole, separate the parts.
We attach the finished plates to the stop with glue, secure them with clamps, make guide holes, and screw in the screws.
We cut out the groove with a disk cutter. Its width is equal to the width of the aluminum profile.
We perform final grinding of the finished stop.

The time has come to make the shield:

First, we cut out a holder in the form of a 12.7 x 12.7 cm square from plywood. We round the upper corners, R = 1.2 cm.
We make slot holes using electric jigsaw.
Take sandpaper and sand the part well.
We cut out a shield from plexiglass. We make the same roundings on the upper corners as on the holder.
We connect the shield and the holder with tape, then drill holes for installation.

All that remains is to make the comb clamp and locking elements:

We make 2 blanks for the pressing comb measuring 1.9x5.1x46 cm from the board.
We make 30-degree bevels at the ends of the workpiece on a cutting machine.
We retreat 6.7 cm from the ends with bevels and draw transverse oblique lines. We mark radii at the upper ends.
We make a cut to the marked line by placing the workpiece on the cutting machine and pressing it against the stop with the longer edge. In this case, the 3 mm disk rises 5 cm above the machine table.
We rotate the part 180 degrees and do the same from the other end.
We shift the emphasis 0.5 cm from the original position and repeat the steps at regular intervals. As soon as the stop moves to the 4.5 cm mark, the milling disk must be lowered to 2.5 cm and the edge of the workpiece is filed to the width corresponding to the drawing.
We retreat 2.3 cm from the rounded edge of the clamp. At this point, we make 1 hole with a diameter of 7 mm in the center of the ridge, set aside 2.2 cm from its center and make another one, retreat 5.1 cm and drill a third hole.
We connect the last 2 holes with parallel straight lines, take a jigsaw and cut out a slotted hole.
We process everything with sandpaper.

We produce stop blocks using the following technology:

cut out 2 blanks from a board measuring 1.9x4.5x7.6 cm;
drill in the center of a hole ø 0.7 cm;
We grind the parts and fit them tightly to the long edges of the combs.

Final work on the milling machine

We cover all the wooden parts of a homemade milling machine oil impregnation.
We cut off the aluminum profile with a hacksaw, focusing on the length of the table and stop. We attach one section of the profile to the table, the other to the stop.
Install the switch.
We attach the safety shield to the holder. Then we install this unit, as well as the combs together with the locking blocks, on the stop.
Rip fence assembled we mount on the table.
We mount a dust removal pipe on the back side of the stop to the gussets.
Insert the mounting plate into the recess on the cover.

Drive for milling machine

The choice of motor to include in the milling machine circuit depends on what you are going to do with it:

to obtain simple workpieces with small samples, a 500-watt motor is enough;
for more complex work it is necessary to choose a motor from 1.1 kW. Any milling cutter is suitable for such a drive;
Do-it-yourself milling machines are equipped with stationary electric motors or used as a drive hand power tools high power;
With a higher number of revolutions, the cut is better.

Watch a video about a homemade milling machine:

DIY milling machine

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All photos from the article

Every owner who wants to adequately equip his own home workshop strives to install a small but multifunctional machine in it. In the modern market, the cost of such equipment is quite high, so you have to make it yourself. Experienced masters They claim that making a vertical wood milling machine with your own hands is quite possible, the main thing is to have the desire.

What options are there?

A homemade wood milling machine for a home workshop, as you understand, is not made out of thin air, so you will have to spend money on materials and main working units. Often the price of such a design depends on the cost of the main unit, which includes the electric drive and the cutting mill itself.

The simplest and most affordable milling machine can be made from ordinary electric drill or a hammer drill. If the tool is rigidly fixed on a vertical bracket and the cutter is clamped into the chuck, then you can process small parts by holding them in your hands or fixing them in movable clamps.

Important: a manual wood milling machine for the home can be made in two versions. The first direction provides for rigid fixation of the working cutting mechanism, while the part itself or the frame with the part clamped in it is made movable. The second approach is radically opposite; here the workpiece is rigidly fixed, and the cutting tool moves around it.

A wooden platform with clamps rigidly fixed to it is installed between them; the part will be clamped into them.

The platform can be moved manually or a lever can be attached behind it.

You can make more from an electric drill functional machine . To do this, use several wooden blocks and 4 smooth metal tubes, preferably aluminum. The idea is to provide controlled movement of the drill in 3 planes. Up - down, left - right and forward - back;
First you have to build 2 rectangular frames. The frame lying on the table is responsible for the back and forth movement. 2 parallel metal tubes are installed on it, along which the second frame, located in a vertical position, will move;
On a vertical frame, parallel to the table, the following metal tube is cut between the bars. This guide will be responsible for the movement of the mechanism to the sides;
To attach the drill itself to such a frame, we need a pair of strips. The drill will be fixed on a block that is mounted between the ends of these planks;
On the other side of this improvised lever, the strips are drilled and placed on the vertical frame tube;
Another tube is fixed parallel to the table on a block with a drill. At the second end of this tube, strictly parallel to the drill, a handle for monitoring and control is mounted;
The dimensions of all these nodes may be different, and the connection principle is shown in the photo.

Using a hand router

At the beginning of the article we talked about homemade vertical machine for milling work on wood. This means that the working tool is installed in a vertical position. If it is more convenient to install a drill vertically above the table, then it is better to permanently install a hand router into the table from below the tabletop. Accordingly, before you make a wood milling machine yourself, you need to choose a table or at least a reliable tabletop.

But you can’t just cut a hole and screw the tool underneath. The tool base plate must be flush with the base table and securely locked in place.

Therefore, as a rule, the tabletop itself consists of two layers. The bottom layer has a hole the size of the router. And the top plate is made of two parts, a mounting plate for the router and a base plate, which is permanently attached to the tabletop.

As can be seen in the diagram, a wide rectangular section is cut out in the center of the top plate, after which the remainder is glued or screwed to the base tabletop. A hole is made in this rectangular sector along the diameter of the working cutter. Next, the working plate is screwed to the tool. Now you can insert and secure the plate into the niche. The video in this article shows several options for assembling such structures.

Conclusion

For processing wooden surfaces At home, a small amount of equipment is usually required. However, for precise drilling it is recommended to use special machines. Making a homemade router with your own hands is not a problem if you study its structure and select the right components.

Wood milling machine design

Hand tools are usually used for milling wooden workpieces. In some cases, this does not provide high quality processing, since there is a high probability of errors and defects. To minimize these phenomena, it is recommended to make a homemade milling machine.

Work should begin by studying a similar factory design. Then the degree of processing of the materials and the required accuracy of the workpiece characteristics are determined. These include overall dimensions and wood type. Based on these data, a optimal scheme manufacturing.

The standard design of a do-it-yourself wood milling machine should include the following components:

bed. This is the supporting part on which the tabletop and the motor for rotating the cutter will be attached;
tabletop. The main characteristic of this component is area. Also on its surface it is necessary to provide fastenings for fixing the workpiece and measuring rulers;
cutter You can use a manual model. In some cases it is advisable to install homemade design consisting of a spindle and a motor.

Such woodworking equipment can be divided into two types: with horizontal and vertical processing. The difference is determined by the direction of the cutter relative to the workpiece. Some craftsmen make designs with the ability to change the position of the cutting part along three coordinate axes.

In addition to the machine, you need to choose the right set of cutters. With their help you can do rough and finishing processing of wooden parts.

Materials and components for the machine

The simplest design option is to install a finished device on an existing desktop. In this case, it is necessary to carry out some modernization of the countertop. But it’s best to make a homemade milling machine completely with your own hands.

At the first stage, you need to decide on the location of the cutter. For processing end surfaces, it is best to choose a horizontal mounting of the cutting tool. This will optimize work and quickly carry out repair and maintenance work.

frame. For greater stability, it should be made of steel pipes round or square section. If you plan to install an engine, a niche is provided in the lower part of the structure;
Desktop. Its surface must be smooth and not collapse under the influence of external pressure. A chipboard panel is best suited for this;
clamps and limiters. They are designed to guide the movement of the part relative to the cutter. Can be either wooden or steel. It is imperative to provide blocks for attaching them to the tabletop.

After selecting the components and preparing them, you can begin assembling a homemade wood milling machine with your own hands.

To attach the limiters, you can use the components of a clamp or make a unit yourself based on this design.

Making a wood milling machine

The production of equipment must be carried out strictly according to a pre-designed scheme. It indicates the location of each component, how it is attached and its dimensions.

At the first stage of manufacturing, it is necessary to assemble the support frame for the machine. To do this, pre-prepared pipe blanks should be connected to each other. Then they are fixed using welding. After this, the dimensions of the top part are checked and the production of the tabletop begins.

Procedure.

Markings are applied to the fiberboard panels, according to which the outline of the tabletop is cut out.
When positioned vertically, the cutter makes a hole in the panel.
Installation of the electric motor and spindle. The latter should not protrude above the plane of the tabletop.
Installation of limit strip.

After this, the first tests of the structure can be carried out. It is important that there are no strong vibrations during operation. To compensate for them, additional stiffeners can be installed.