The desire to improve your living conditions by increasing the number square meters appeared to every owner of a private house. Apartment owners are not lagging behind in this and would also be happy to add at least one room for themselves.
There is nothing impossible in this, additions to apartment buildings- a dime a dozen, you just need to know how to do it correctly, and not only from a legal point of view. The key to successful construction and comfortable living is proper organization works and compliance with process technology.
Extension layout
The construction of the extension begins with, perhaps, the most important thing - with permission for this very construction. Without the appropriate piece of paper, you can run into a serious fine, and the money spent will be wasted.
The next stage is also theoretical. Determine what purpose the extension being built will have. Will it be residential or winter Garden, storage room or just an emergency exit porch. Cash injections into construction directly depend on the purpose of the structure.
Logically, it would be correct to draw up a drawing; the drawing helps to understand how to make an extension to the house, make approximate calculations according to the amount of material required. Then they go to the site of future construction and transfer the drawing to the site, indicating the dimensions of the extension using a cord and metal or wooden pegs. It is on the spot that they carefully examine how the new foundation will combine with the existing one and whether the future extension fits into the architecture.
Material selection
The material of the extension and the house are usually the sameExperts advise approaching this issue simply: from what material the main house is built, the same should be used for the extension. Simply put, if the house is wooden, then you should add to it wooden extension. The same applies to brick and concrete. But technical progress in the field building materials does not stand still, and now universal materials have appeared, such as foam and gas blocks. In addition to its versatility, it is an environmentally friendly and heat-saving material. You can veneer such an extension decorative slabs, imitating the material of the walls of the main building, which will create the appearance of execution in a single style.
But there are also exceptions. In some climatic zones, it is possible to make a wooden extension to a concrete building if it is used as a storage room or garage. You can even build a bathhouse from logs and attach it to your apartment. Flights of fancy in such cases are limited only by financial possibilities.
Construction of the foundation
The most important stage of construction is. Even the strongest modern and expensive materials, will turn out to be useless on a poor and flimsy foundation, so the answer to the question of how to properly make an extension to a house is to choose the right foundation. There are three main types of foundation:
- monolithic made of reinforced concrete, ;
- columnar.
Foundation for an extension The first option is universal, it is suitable for all types of buildings, the same applies to columnar foundation. The pile version is suitable for adding a light veranda or utility room that is insignificant in weight and massiveness. This option is distinguished by its ease of implementation and pace of construction.
The first step to pouring the foundation should be research papers for soil studies. This is done by specialized enterprises; it is extremely difficult to do this on your own, and the costs for the services of these specialists are incomparably small compared to the cost of losing the entire extension.
After issuing recommendations on the type, depth of the foundation and the need to tie it to the main building, they begin marking on site. The contour is measured very carefully, observing the geometry of the corners, so as not to adjust the trench during work.
They begin to dig a trench from the lowest angle, maintaining the required depth. It is best to immediately install temporary supports to prevent the walls from collapsing. When excavation completed, a cushion of sand and crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand 100-150 mm thick. It is compacted well, and the same layer of crushed stone is poured on top. Since we are building an extension to the house with our own hands, all work is carried out efficiently and conscientiously.
Floor construction The construction will be relatively universal frame walls. The technology is little known to a wide range of the population, so many treat it with distrust, and completely in vain.
Popular frame walls
A frame wall is not a simple structure. It is complex and multi-layered. Those who want to use this particular method often do not know how to make an extension using walls of this design. Wooden frame consists of upper and lower wall trim. Auxiliary beams and racks are used to obtain the necessary structural rigidity, and doors and windows are placed between the crossbars.
The finished wall frame is sheathed on both sides with boards, forming a void, which is filled with insulation, a protective membrane and, in mandatory, vapor barrier. A vapor barrier layer is required. It prevents moisture from getting inside along with warm air from inside the room. Wet insulation loses its properties, and in addition, moisture is very destructive to wooden base Houses.
The problem of insulation can be solved by various mineral and glass materials, which the construction materials market now offers in a large assortment.
The construction of frame walls begins by attaching horizontal framing beams to the foundation. This is usually done using metal anchors. It is especially worth mentioning that the waterproofing layer of the foundation must already be laid, and the lower beam must be attached on top of it. Next, the corner and load-bearing posts of the frame are mounted on the lower frame, which are fixed to provide rigidity with braces.
The top trim is laid on top of the posts, which are fastened with straight spikes. Sheathing and internal insulation produced from inside the house. Moving outwards, the installation sequence is as follows: first the inner lining, then the vapor barrier, glass or mineral insulation, and finally the windproof layer. The whole thing is covered with external cladding.
The outer cladding must have good moisture protection qualities, be resistant to wind and all kinds of weather conditions. Typically this material is “lining” or non-profiled planed board. They must be nailed horizontally. The “lining” is attached with the inner ridge upward, and regular board with overlap and overhang one above the other. This scheme allows you to reliably protect inner layer insulation against moisture, slanting rain and snowstorms.
When building an extension to a house, you can use almost any material. It is important to remember that some of them are toxic and unsuitable for use. internal lining. Fiberboards, plywood or drywall, will be an excellent basis for further improvement of the interior.
Roof construction
Typically, a single-pitch option is chosen for the roof of an extension. With this option, the angle of inclination should be at least 25-30˚. Having determined the angle of inclination, the timber is secured to the main part of the building. The lower support will be the wall, its outer edge, or the laid floors of the new building. The edge of the roof must protrude at least 300 mm. from the wall, for maximum protection from precipitation. After installing the rafters, the main roof is installed, if it is a hard roof. When choosing flexible tiles, a base is additionally laid in the form of plywood or a similar material.
Floor installation and interior work
The choice of floor will be dictated by the purpose of the structure. For the residential option, insulation is required by installing wooden beam and laying insulation, it is also possible to install a heated floor. For a garage or storage room, a concrete floor is quite suitable. You need to approach this issue on a purely individual basis. The same applies to interior decoration.
Having studied the materials in this article, there should be no questions left about how to properly make an extension and to wooden house, since both the choice of material and construction stages are similar and are suitable for such construction.
When for some reason there is a need to increase living space country house, then the easiest and most economical way to do this is to build a frame extension to the house. Its main advantage is that it can be erected independently in a minimum amount of time and no serious skills in using carpentry tools are required.
In order for the building to turn out not only useful, but also beautiful, it is best to familiarize yourself in advance with how it should be built.
Purpose of the extension
To avoid transformation of the extension in the future, it is advisable to carefully consider all the details of the structure being built during planning. First of all, it is important to decide what the purpose of the extension to the house, made by yourself, is.
The first and most common option is an additional room. In fact, building another room according to the scheme will be similar to building a house with small area. The main thing is not to forget to properly insulate each of the structures of the new building so that the heating of the room is effective and in the future simply avoid heat loss.
This is not the moment on which you can save, as well as on insulating the foundation and implementing waterproofing, since otherwise mold will form on the walls and dampness will make it simply impossible to stay in the room for a short time.
The second option is a bathroom or kitchen area. Having looked at the photo of the extension to the house, you probably already realized that in this case the main thing is to install all the necessary utilities in advance before the construction of the foundation begins.
It is also necessary to properly insulate the places where the sewer and water pipes through the foundation. Important point: in order to save money Money, it is better to carry out all the work during construction.
Another popular extension option is a veranda. It can be open or glazed. Most often used for recreation in the summer. Due to the fact that the building is usually not additionally heated, the structure is quite easy to construct.
All that is needed is a roof on supports, as well as a deck with walls. When building a veranda important point is that it must necessarily be combined in size, materials used for construction and style with the house.
What material to choose for the walls of the extension?
When thinking about how to make an extension, you first need to think about what materials will be used for the walls. With panel or frame technology, as a rule, this is a sandwich:
- Wind protection, that is, external waterproofing film
- Stone wool or polystyrene foam placed between OSB sheets
- Vapor barrier membrane for internal protection
If you are interested in expensive methods, then you can do the masonry from any lightweight blocks. It can be foam or aerated concrete. When purchasing foam concrete blocks for a developer without any construction experience, it is worth considering that this material has its own characteristics:
Firstly, in almost 90% of cases, even walls made today from the most expensive foam concrete will in the future be covered with a large number of small cracks.
Secondly, all facades will need to be plastered using pre-selected compounds directly along the grid.
When choosing walls from various foamed concrete, it is worth paying attention to the fact that for any roofing materials, such as ceramic / slate tiles, they are all not strong enough. For this reason perfect option to cover the building - this is corrugated sheeting or ondulin.
Extension made from high-quality SIP panels
Today one of the most budget options self-construction is an extension to the house, made of popular SIP panels, which standard sizes. During construction, a number of nuances should be taken into account.
All screw piles with a wooden grillage, that is, the timber is always fixed in specially designated heads using large nails.
It is stipulated that all communications must be removed inside the panels, that is, wiring engineering systems hidden type here.
Due to the fact that the roof and ceiling sheathing is made of the same material, an equal resource is provided for all load-bearing structures.
There are no cold bridges, which guarantees rational arrangement the entire heating circuit in the future extension.
Because the this material is, according to the description, self-supporting and structural; the timber that is used to perform their mandatory joining does not serve as the load-bearing frame of the house. It will be possible to achieve the strength and absolute rigidity of the completed structure only after installing the last of the panels.
In conclusion, it is worth noting that extensions consisting of several floors are rarely found, so homemade scaffolding As a rule, a minimum amount of lumber is consumed.
And finally, an important point: it is better to legalize the extension to your house in advance in order to avoid unwanted dismantling in the future if the decision of the relevant authorities suddenly turns out to be not positive.
Such projects are used to increase living space, improve appearance and expanding the basic functionality of the building. At the same time, it is extremely important to carefully study what a high-quality extension to a wooden house is. Projects should be designed taking into account the complexity of their implementation. To do this, you will have to familiarize yourself with the features construction technologies. With this article, accept correct solution it will be much easier. Go!
Read in the article
Extension to the house: options, photos of successful projects, formulation of general requirements
This photo clearly explains the convention of the name. A large extension to a wooden house can significantly improve the original technical and aesthetic characteristics. The main thing is that there are enough sizes for large-scale plans. Of course, we must not forget about the financial and time components of the project.
Something to remember! It is better to complete the construction of such structures in one warm season. Otherwise, there will be additional costs for winter conservation. Accurate planning will help you save money at several stages. In particular, wholesale purchases of the necessary basic and finishing materials will be useful.
To build an extension with your own hands, you need to realistically assess your own strengths. The most complex work operations can be entrusted to specialized specialists. But even in this case, your own knowledge will be useful for carefully monitoring the performers.
For your information! It is better to hire highly qualified professionals. Slave labor was abolished due to lack of efficiency. Involvement of relatives and other dubious helpers can be complemented by unforeseen additional expense materials, time and money.
In any case, the target task should be correctly formulated in order to accurately create a set of design documentation. The house extension projects discussed below will help you make the right decision. When studying in detail, pay attention to the nuances that are important to you. Remember that these examples can be used in various combinations to successfully meet individual needs.
A universal solution to various problems with the addition of a veranda to a wooden house
How to add a garage to a house: features of technical premises
It is better to place the appropriate layers on the outside. This prevents the dew point from moving towards the room and prevents moisture from penetrating into the walls. In such places it is better to use foamed polymer boards, which do not need to be additionally protected from water.
The following table provides data that will help you make the correct calculation taking into account the temperature conditions in a certain region:
| Wall thickness, cm | Weight 1 sq.m. structures, kg | Material consumption per 1 sq. m. walls | Permissible outside air temperature, °C | Notes | ||
| Brick, pcs. | Masonry mortar, l | Piece of construction mixture, l | ||||
| Clay brick (silicate and ordinary) with a volumetric mass of 1900 kg per 1 cubic meter. | ||||||
| 25 | 480 | 102 | 65 | 25 | -3 | |
| 51 | 950 | 204 | 127 | 25 | -20 | |
| 770 | 1410 | 308 | 193 | 25 | -40 | |
| 42 | 720 | 152 | 85 | 50 | -20 | |
| 55 | 950 | 204 | 117 | 50 | -33 | |
| 68 | 1190 | 256 | 150 | 50 | -40 | |
| Multi-hole brick (effective) with a volumetric mass of 1300 kg per 1 cubic meter. | ||||||
| 25 | 350 | 103 | 50 | 25 | -7 | Solid masonry, internal plaster, external jointing |
| 38 | 520 | 154 | 76 | 25 | -21 | |
| 64 | 860 | 259 | 128 | 25 | -48 | |
| 42 | 530 | 154 | 66 | 50 | -30 | Air gap, external and internal plaster |
| 68 | 870 | 259 | 118 | 50 | -55 | |
Use this information when selecting materials. The final cost of the project depends on many factors. Sometimes it is more profitable to make a large initial investment but reduce operating costs.
Such solutions are used when high level groundwater and on soft soils if significant loads are expected. A rigid connection to the main foundation is not made.
The video below shows how to pour the foundation for an extension to a house:
Similar materials are not difficult to find when choosing another technology.
How to make an extension roof without mistakes
In this case, the supports of the additional part of the structure perform the main load-bearing functions. This example shows a small angle of inclination of the slopes. This means that in winter time the significant weight of the snow cover will have to be taken into account. The corresponding loads must be taken into account when calculating the truss structure and when choosing materials for the surface.
Important! The above examples can be applied in practice if a rigid connection of the foundations is ensured. Otherwise, the roof of the extension to a wooden house is made independent of the main structure.
Building an extension to the house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions with important notes
| Photo | How to add an extension to a house. Main stages of work with comments | |
 | Project basis – an old house With slate roof. The entrance part consisted of a “dressing room”, which had dubious aesthetic and insufficient insulating characteristics. | |
 | After inspecting the property, a decision was made to build an extension to the wooden house using frame technology. For this lightweight one-story structure, the load capacity is sufficient strip foundation. | |
 | In accordance with the plan, they dig a trench and install it from boards. Transverse jumpers (1) are installed in the upper part to maintain the integrity of the structure after pouring | |
 | Install inside (diameter 8-12 mm). To fasten the rods, you can use wire or special plastic clamps. | |
 | After pouring construction mixture protruding parts (M12) should remain on the surface. They are useful for a rigid connection with the walls of an extension to a wooden house. | |
 | After the mixture has completely hardened, the formwork is carefully removed. The exact time depends on external temperature conditions, percentages and component parameters. | |
 | Please note that at the stage of preparation for pouring, special pipes are installed for subsequent installation electrical cables, water supply, other engineering networks. In this project, holes were made in all foundation walls for space under the wooden floor. | |
 | Not only the contour is concreted, but also separate areas for mounting supports, a fireplace, and other heavy equipment. A similar technology with reinforcement is used. | |
 | Through a layer of roofing felt on a strip foundation they install support boards. Their reliable fixation is ensured by anchors. Next, the ribs of the transverse joists are mounted. | |
 plywood | The wall frame is installed sequentially. To maintain the vertical position of these elements, temporary supports are used. | |
 | Here the walls are installed on all sides, which creates closed loop full living space. | |
 | On next stage installed truss structure. The photo shows that the author delayed the implementation of the project, so the installation had to be postponed to winter period. IN in this case it's only about unfavorable conditions to perform work operations. "Wet" technological processes were completed on time, during the warm season. | , a layer of waterproofing. Mineral wool mats are inserted into wall cells and covered with film. Vinyl siding is installed on the outside. Inside there is a lining. Installation of window and door blocks. Finish decorative finishing performed at their own discretion.
Here we talk about how to make an extension to your house using frame structure. When using other technologies, appropriate instructions must be used. Remember to make the necessary changes as the load on the foundation increases.
Selecting a construction team and the secrets of strict control
For better orientation in this segment of the service market, extensions to a wooden house with prices and general characteristics are given below:
| Name | Width x Depth, cm | Main material | price, rub. | Notes |
| 600x600 | Beam, 150x50 mm | 250000- 285000 | The kit includes installation of a foundation made of blocks and treatment with an antiseptic. | |
| Terrace | 600x300 | Beam, 150x50 mm, lining | 140000-175000 | You have to pay separately for windows, doors, and roof installation. |
| Two-story frame extension | 600x600 | Timber 100x50 and 150x50, lining, blockhouse. | 580000-620000 | Replacement of window and door units, filing of the external part of the roof, up to the standards of the living space, are paid separately. |
If you are offered to build an extension to your house inexpensively, check the list of materials and work carefully. To check, use your own list of mandatory activities, which can be compiled based on the materials in this article. Check the cost of delivery, installation, finishing, garbage removal. This approach will eliminate any unpleasant surprises. You need to study the text of the contract in advance. If you encounter any difficulties, consult with an experienced lawyer.
Successful examples of extensions to a house: verandas and terraces, photos and comments
This photo of a house extension demonstrates the benefits of glazing. Regardless of the weather, you can admire the surrounding space in comfortable conditions 
A thorough overall analysis of the situation will help you make the right decision. Eliminate errors based on the incorrect statement “Money is everything!” The real benefits come to the person who makes his “little gray cells” work.
Even if there are no problems with financing, topical knowledge will be useful. They will help:
- choose the right project;
- formulate technical specifications;
- find the best basic and finishing materials;
- control work;
- argue for the need to correct shortcomings.
The information from this article will be useful for performing individual operations or the entire project on your own. It is impossible to foresee all the problems encountered in practice within the framework of one publication. Ask additional questions in the comments. Communicate with like-minded people, experienced craftsmen and authors of implemented ideas. This will simplify the construction of a high-quality extension to a wooden house.
Advantage wooden houses is what is possible different option architectural forms and extensions to the house.
You can order to any home by standard project any extension.
Types of extensions offered by our company:
Terrace- this is an open area, with a fence around the perimeter under common roof with the house. It can be combined with the house or stand alone. The terrace can be conveniently used as summer kitchen, for relaxation in the summer. The open terrace can be on one side of the house or along the perimeter.
Veranda- This closed building(room). In essence, this is a continuation of the house in the form of an extension under a common roof. The veranda can be timber (made of timber), frame-panel, or glazed. Enclosed veranda always in most cases one-story, sometimes it is added after construction is completed, when it is necessary to increase the area of the house.
Porch- this is a small outdoor open extension at the entrance to the house, through which entry and exit from the house is carried out. A porch may or may not have a roof. Most often, the porch is equipped with railings with fences and several steps. A porch does not require a complex foundation; more often, a columnar foundation is always used.
Prices for house extensions and work
Porch
Porch cost. Price per 1 sq.m. 5.000 rub.
Porch 1.0x1.0m. 5.000
Porch 1.0x1.5m. 7.500
Porch 2.0x1.5m 15.000
Porch 2.0x2.0m 20.000
The price of the porch includes:
- columnar foundation,
- railings with balusters
- roof canopy (such as on a house)
Open terrace
Cost of terrace. Price per 1 sq.m. 5.000 rub.
Open terrace 4.0x2.0m 30.000
Open terrace 5.0x2.0m 50.000
Open terrace 6.0x2.0m 45.000
Open terrace 6.0x3.0m 65.000
The price of the terrace includes:
- columnar foundation
- railings with >>><<< (возможны различные варианты ограждения, смотрите ссылку)
- roof combined with the house
Possible options :
- Corrugated sheet
- Metal tiles
- Ondulin
- Ruberoid (if it is a log house or)
>>> or extensions
Veranda closed from timber
Cost of veranda. Price per 1 sq.m. 8000 rub (timber 100x150).
Price per 1 sq.m. 9.500 rub. (beam150x150)
Veranda 4.0*2.0m, timber 150*100mm, 64.000
Veranda 6.0*2.0m, timber 150*100mm, 96.000
Veranda 4.0*2.0m, timber 150*150mm, 76.000
Veranda 6.0*2.0m, timber 150*150mm, 114.000
Prices are indicated for the construction of a veranda from profiled timber.
The complete set of an extension made of timber can be seen in the example
If you don't know what it is, check it out.
Veranda (extension) frame
A possible option is a frame-panel extension with 100 (150,200 mm) insulation, finished with clapboard or block house.
Briefly: (insulation of walls 50mm, floors - 100mm (double floors, edged boards 20mm and finished tongue and groove floors - 28mm), vapor barrier on both sides, lining finishing on both sides, roof - ondulin, columnar foundationThe cost of a panel insulated veranda is calculated separately and depends on the thickness of the insulation and the type of finishing. Price per 1 sq.m. from 9000 rub. (50mm insulation (Isover, Ursa), vapor barrier on both sides (Izospan, Ondutis), lining on both sides)
Frame (panel) veranda 2.0*2.0m., 46.000
Frame (panel) veranda 3.0*2.0m., 64.000
Frame (panel) veranda 4.0*2.0m., 82.000
Frame (panel) veranda 5.0*2.0m., 98.000
Frame (panel) veranda 6.0*2.0 m., 118.000
Frame (panel) veranda 6.0*3.0m., 172.000
Insulation for frame construction
Types of insulation used in the construction and panel extensions to a country house
Extension projects
Veranda project No. 1
Price: 164.000 rubles
Veranda project No. 2
Price: 178.000 rubles
Semi-open veranda project No. 3
Price: 94.000 rubles
Terrace project No. 4
Price: 108.000 rubles
Terrace project No. 5
Price: 76.000 rubles
Terrace project No. 6
Price: 84.000 rubles
Note: prices are approximate (informational) in nature and do not include the cost of delivery and accommodation of builders at the customer’s site (delivery is possible construction shed, (3 by 2.3 m.), costing 15,000 rubles, remains to the client upon completion of construction), more detailed calculation on request.
Photos of extensions (terraces, verandas)
You can take a closer look at this one we built. 
This
Time passes, and it turns out that the private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We’ll tell you in this article how to do this efficiently and without extra costs.
Save money without harming quality – requirements for premises and materials
Poorly thought out design of an extension will eventually force something to be altered or completed, or added to the country house. In order to avoid getting into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with choosing a location and size.
Each type of additional room has its own specific characteristics in connection with its use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing, and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in a country house, then this is tantamount to building a small house. It is necessary to reliably insulate and prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.
Another common type of extension is kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about utilities and install them even before construction begins. It is much more convenient to lay sewer and water pipes before pouring the foundation than to dig underneath it later. Waterproofing requires increased attention flooring. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then you can save on this.
The house is being expanded by adding a veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer recreation, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many variants: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to complex with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing the foundation is necessary.
The extension to the house must be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has external decoration, then it will not be difficult to repeat it in the attached room. All materials go well with wood, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option there will be a frame structure:
- it is built quickly, literally in a few months;
- does not require a capital foundation because it is lightweight;
- without special knowledge and skills, it can be built with your own hands;
- will cost less.
The foundation for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching a structure to a house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this respect they compare favorably frame structures, which do not give vertical shrinkage.
If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows off. If this is an extension to a side wall, then the roof follows the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.
Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable
For the columnar foundation of the extension to the house, concrete, brick or a combination of both is used. It is made mainly for a living room or veranda. If used for a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the input will be required engineering communications to the house. Since the protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, such expenses can be incurred, and it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards; for concrete, you will need a lot of backfill material and a fence around the perimeter.
We start by marking the area, the installation locations of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate hole of 50x50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than freezing of the soil. At the top we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a 10 cm layer of sand, compact it carefully, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.
We lay out the film for waterproofing and bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, pour a little bit into each hole. concrete mortar for the base and wait for it to set. When planning concrete pillars, we tie reinforcement at the top along the entire height and lower them into the pits. We ensure equal distance between the walls. We place pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.
We make formwork for the base, inside which we run the film. We pour the concrete in layers, pierce each layer several times with a rod to release air bubbles. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it sets, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, water heavily and cover with burlap or film.
When the foundation reaches the required strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bitumen mastic, apply it to the pillars and immediately glue pieces of roofing felt for waterproofing. There is space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill in to insulate the floor. We apply ordinary land, mixed with crushed stone or pieces of brick. Fill in layers of 10 cm and tamp. The technology for constructing a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.
Getting started - bottom frame and extension floor
So, we stopped at frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for a tree to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing the most reliable means– bitumen mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.
Then we make the bottom trim. Usually 150x150 mm timber is used, but it is possible to use 150x50 mm boards. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, aligned with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.
In boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes under the studs and connect them. If it is strip, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then lay it down. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The result is a binding of the required thickness, which also has additional advantages:
- costs much less than beams;
- It’s very easy to connect them together, but with bars it’s more difficult.
We attach the bottom frame to the beds from the same 150x50 mm boards, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next we install logs made of similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the trim board with nails, 2 on each side.
Now let's start insulating the floor. The cheapest, although not very environmentally friendly option, is tile polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg/m3. Its advantage is that it is the only insulation material that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50x50 mm bars to the lower edges of the logs, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the bottom and top rows overlap.
The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. To prevent it from warping over time, we lay it alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we place one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if there are edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We lay it directly along the joists.
Wall installation - two assembly technologies
There are two technologies for assembling frame buildings. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then ready-made designs are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is immediately sheathed, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. A shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; assistants will be needed.
We begin the construction of the frame with the corner posts. For them and intermediate posts we use timber 150×150 mm or even 100×100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We position the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. This way we will save on waste-free use of material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.
Fastening can be carried out simply and reliably metal corners, installed on both sides of the racks and secured with stainless steel screws. Before finally fixing the stand, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will cause the entire extension to bend.
Temporary bevels, which are installed from the inside and serve until attachment, help maintain the correct shape of the frame. external cladding. If the casing is made of hard and durable material like plywood, OSB, GVK, it is capable of independently strengthening the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary slopes. When soft material is planned for the cladding: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be avoided. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.
At the places where windows and doors are installed, we attach crossbars. We make double racks next to them: they experience increased loads and must be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing top harness. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and the actual harness made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor joists were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150x50 boards on the edge.
We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of the racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.
Shed roof - design and technology
The roof of a house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one; all that remains is to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along its length, its roof is made of a pitched roof. The slope is ensured by the difference in height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main canopy.
The roof is supported by rafters, which we lay on beams. They are made from thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground according to a template so that they are all the same. Then after installation in place there will be no need to align horizontally. We treat the grooves with mastic, install them and fasten them to the walls with brackets and metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.
We lay the sheathing on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material we make it continuous or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for continuous wooden flooring arises when using soft material, we make sparse for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten corrugated sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws having sealing washers, and ondulin with nails with a wide head. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the final design: wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.
Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension
They are mainly used for insulation of buildings. mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Mineral wool resists fire and has low thermal conductivity. They are light in weight and have a consumer-friendly release form: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation- Styrofoam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, not afraid of fungus, moisture, rotting. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it, and in case of fire it emits toxic gases.
We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:
- 1. We install the waterproofing, having previously cut strips of the required sizes. We fasten with staples using construction stapler, so as to ensure overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
- 2. Place insulation between the studs. Ensure a tight fit to wooden structures, seams between separate elements We close the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
- 3. We attach the vapor barrier, even if we use polystyrene foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the wood. We perform fastening in the same way as waterproofing.
- 4. We cover the walls from the inside. We use plasterboard over a perfectly flat frame or OSB if there are any unevenness. It is tougher and smoothes out imperfections.
What remains is internal and external finishing, where there is room for the owner’s imagination. A frame extension is built quickly, cheaply, lasts for decades, and can be built with virtually no outside help.