How to make a viewing hole on the street. How to make a viewing or vegetable pit in the garage with your own hands

A brick inspection pit in a garage is a simple construction necessary for self-repair vehicle. First, experts advise preparing a plan diagram of the future structure, deciding on the level groundwater, purchase Construction Materials and tools.

The inspection pit for the garage should be located in the middle of the building.

A brick inspection pit is built taking into account the purpose of the garage:

• for storing a car - the pit is located in the center of the building;
• for repair and storage of vehicles and food - the pit is moved towards the wall of the main building.

The diagram indicates the length of the pit, which should exceed the length of the car by 1 m (to provide a comfortable descent and steps). The width of the recess ranges from 75-80 cm. The next stage is digging a pit in the garage.

To do this, use a shovel and a drill with an attachment. A drill will be required in case of rocky and hard terrain. Experts recommend pre-planning the use of the excavated soil. The next stage is the construction of walls. First of all, insulation with roofing felt is carried out. Rigid roofing material is installed on top. The inspection pit is reinforced with mesh. Then the walls in the pit are plastered. The final finishing is carried out after the solution has dried. The edges of the recess are first secured with aluminum corners.

Additional points

If the inspection pit in the garage is built from brick, then the floor is first installed, then the walls are erected.

The thickness of the partitions is one whole or 1/2 brick. If used for construction of a structure old brick, then the material is first cleared of old plaster. To do this, use a grinder. Mortar for bricklaying is prepared taking into account the ratio of 3:1. It is recommended to add liquid soap to the resulting composition. In this case, the solution will be more elastic. This will increase the hardening time, which is very important for novice builders.

To ensure that the brick wall is level, first tension the cord and check the verticality. Experts advise placing niches in the side walls of the pit. They can be used to store tools. The upper rows of the masonry are protected from destruction by installing strapping from metal corners. The last elements must be welded taking into account the formation of a shelf on which the flooring from the boards will be laid. The resulting coating ensures safe entry of the vehicle into the inspection pit.

We lay a wooden grid on the flooring and paint the walls with water-based emulsion. If the inspection pit is installed in the northern regions, then thermal protection is carried out by laying polystyrene foam 50 mm thick.

Creating a pit with close groundwater

Before starting work, it is necessary to clearly determine the location of the pit.

The inspection hole in the garage is built taking into account the depth of groundwater. To do this you will need to dig a pit. If the value of the indicator is less than 2 m, then it is waterproofed. To do this, experts advise using:

• polymers with one or several layers of membranes - such materials must be installed by specialists;
• liquid or rolled bitumen is the cheapest and available method waterproofing inspection hole made of brick - the service life of such a structure reaches 15 years;
• penetrating waterproofing - unlimited duration.

Waterproofing work begins with preparing the flooring. To do this you will need to compact the soil. They lay it in the trench bulk material. Ruberoid or brizol is laid after treating the surface of the GGP pit. The first layer of roofing felt is used in strips. In this case, an overlap of 15 cm is maintained. The joints are treated with hot bitumen. If the last material has cooled, then layer 2 is laid.

Experts advise insulating the inspection hole in the garage using penetrating waterproofing.

It is applied to the damp wall covering, and then to the brick. This mixture includes a mineral filler and various additives. To prepare a sealant solution, use 1 kg of powder mixture and 0.3 liters of water.

If the inspection pit in the garage will also be used for storing vegetables, then you will need to make a partition. Special attention is paid to the humidity and temperature of the air in the storage. If the flooring and walls are poured with concrete, then formwork is installed.

Installation of hoods and lighting

For digging, it is better to use a shovel and a drill with an attachment.

The next work plan is installation ceiling, insulation of the pit, possibly insulation of the garage itself, installation of ventilation and lighting. Extraction is necessary to ensure normal operation in the garage. If it is planned to lay waterproofing material in the pit, then the hood is installed before work begins. Otherwise, its integrity will be compromised.

2 pipes are installed in the pit:

1. Supply air - removal of clean air masses from the street to the inspection hole;
2. Exhaust - removal of polluted and humid air masses from the pit to the street. In this case, the following requirement is met: the pipe is installed 1 m from the roof level. To construct such a system, plastic or metal pipes are used.

The inspection hole requires lighting. The following should be taken into account:

• electrical safety requirements - it is recommended to draw up a lighting diagram with the help of a qualified specialist;
• to ensure uniform lighting in the room, general and local electricity is installed;
• sockets and switches are installed in the garage;
• The cross-section of the copper cable should be 4 square meters. mm.

To provide the room with light, low-voltage lamps are installed. For them to work, it will be necessary to equip a step-down control system.

Types of light sources

Lighting in the garage and inspection pit is carried out using:

• 12V lamps;
• 36V lamps;
• battery lamps.

When using the above lighting devices, an additional transformer (200/12 V) is installed near the meter. Experts advise installing lamps in the inspection hole daylight. They are located on both sides of the pit. Special recesses are pre-arranged. Lamps must be protected from moisture with a hermetically sealed shell. If you need to illuminate a hard-to-reach place in a vehicle, then use a portable lamp. It is connected to an electrical wire more than 4 m long.

Lighting in the garage is carried out using lamps:

• incandescent;
• energy saving;
• LED;
• luminescent.

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Characteristics of lighting fixtures

Each lamp has certain advantages and disadvantages. It is not recommended to install incandescent lamps in a garage with an inspection hole, since these lighting devices are highly dangerous, consume a lot of electricity, and emit light of different shades. This negatively affects vision.

Luminescent lighting It is recommended to install in a warm room. If the air temperature does not exceed +5°C, then the fluorescent light bulb is not reliable in operation. Experts attribute the presence of mercury to its disadvantages. Therefore, after the end of its service life, the lamp is disposed of.

More often, energy-saving lamps are installed in the inspection pit, which provide bright and uniform lighting and have a long service life. Their performance does not depend on the temperature in the garage. Experts consider the disadvantages high price and careful handling (due to the presence of mercury).

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LED bulbs are used for local lighting. They do not blink, providing an even light. At the same time, these devices will require a minimum of energy without causing negative influence on human health. Upon completion electrical work you can start

An inspection hole in the garage helps out many car enthusiasts; with its help, you can carry out minor repairs and maintenance, carry out a detailed inspection of the lower part of the car, and diagnose the chassis. But in order to make a hole correctly, it is necessary to fulfill some conditions: certain order performance of work.

If the inspection pit (IP) is not made according to the rules, it will be inconvenient to use, it may flood with water, and it is unlikely to last long. In the article we will look at what criteria should be followed when creating a strategic language, the procedure, necessary materials, tools, existing technologies construction.

Where to start making a viewing hole

Any structure always begins with calculations; before starting to dig a pit, it is necessary to determine in advance:

• dimensions;
• the place where the pit will be located;
• materials used (brick or concrete).

It should be said that it is easier to make a SA when there is no garage, and it is only in the project, especially in cases where groundwater is located at a depth higher underground than 2.5 m, since in this case it is required drainage works. If the waters lie too high under the finished garage, you may have to abandon the inspection hole, since drainage will be very problematic.

So, first we decide on the sizes:

• length - usually taken about one meter longer than a standard car. If the garage is intended for the repair and maintenance of passenger cars, a typical size of 4.5 m is assumed, which means the length of the pit should be approximately 5.5 meters;
• width - should not be too small, it is necessary that an adult can fit comfortably in the vehicle; it cannot be wide, otherwise not every passenger car will be able to drive into the pit without the risk of falling down, moving off the track. Usually the width is 0.75-0.8 m, this is the most typical size;
• depth - calculated taking into account the height of an adult man (170-180 cm) plus a margin for convenient inspection and repair (15-20 cm), typical pit depth is 1.85-2.00 m.

In general, builders always try to dig the SJ a little deeper - reducing the depth is quite easy with the help of stands and laying an additional layer of material at the bottom. But it is difficult to deepen the hole, since you have to destroy the bottom layer, re-lay the floor, and carry out hydro- and thermal insulation.

You can make a pit of various designs with your own hands:

• ordinary, with a floor and reinforced walls;
• with niches in which you can lay out tools and small parts removed from the machine;
• with a cellar for household or household needs.

The pit is always dug with a reserve not only in depth, but also in width and height, since it is necessary to expect that all surfaces will be reinforced with concrete or brick, waterproofing will have to be done, ideal It would be nice to provide thermal insulation as well.

How to make a floor in a garage pit

Having made a drawing of the hole, you can start digging it, but if a concrete floor has already been laid in the garage, it will have to be cut and partially removed; for this you will need a circular saw with stone discs, a jackhammer, or, in extreme cases, you can use a hammer drill with a chisel. The future pit is marked with chalk to create straight lines corner is used.

When digging a hole of the required size, we use a construction indicator or a plumb line; it is necessary that the walls are level, and the earth should be taken immediately outside the garage. Then we work closely on the floor in the garage pit, creating a support-pillow at the bottom:

• lay out an even layer of crushed stone (approximately 5-10 cm thick);
• tamp, pour a layer of sand;
• above " layered cake» cover with clay, lay roofing felt;
• for strength we place reinforcement on top;
• Fill the resulting structure with concrete mortar and let it dry.

Concrete can be made from various components and in different proportions, the most classic composition mixture - three parts construction sand and one part dry cement. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the concrete, all sorts of options are also possible here, there are several recipes. After the waterproofing layer, it will not be superfluous to take care of thermal insulation; usually sheet foam is used for these purposes. Then the entire structure is re-filled with concrete (layer 15-20 mm); after installation, it is necessary for the solution to dry thoroughly.

Laying out pit walls

When forming the side surfaces of the clay, the first layer of clay is applied to the walls, then it is fixed on it polyethylene film, roofing felt is spread out. As in the floor option, a waterproofing coating is also provided here; the material can be single-layer or multi-layer polymer plates, bitumen, liquid rubber, mineral mixtures, and so on. If thermal insulation is needed, we lay polystyrene foam; it is important to carefully treat all joints and seams during hydro- and thermal insulation; it is necessary to ensure tightness. When laying walls with concrete you must:

• make formwork, it is made of wooden blocks, plywood or edged boards;
• perform reinforcement before pouring steel mesh with a rod diameter of 10-12 mm;
• pour the concrete solution, after it has completely dried, remove the formwork;
• if necessary, make niches in the walls.

If lighting is provided in the pit, care must be taken to lay internal wiring, the wires must be hidden in corrugation, and they are usually secured to reinforced mesh before pouring concrete (for example, plastic ties). The solution is not poured all at once, but in several stages from bottom to top in sections of 0.3-0.4 m, each layer must be given time to dry (concreting can take from two to three days). The walls can also be made of brick, but this requires a slightly different technology.

How to properly lay out the walls in a brick pit

Before laying the walls with brick, just as when working with concrete, the side surfaces are first coated with red clay, a polyethylene film, roofing felt, and a hydro- and heat-insulating layer are laid. Masonry is carried out in compliance with the following conditions:

• bricks are placed in a checkerboard pattern;
• the masonry is carried out in one layer along the width of the brick;
• the seams are carefully rubbed down, and the corners are made securely together;
• the top brick row should protrude about 5-10 cm above the surface of the structure. This is done so that the car cannot fall into the hole, and also so that the tool does not slip into it.

When laying out a brick pit, you must not forget about the niches; for convenience, you can build formwork (but not necessary). Immediately after completing the work, you cannot use the pit; you must wait about five days for the solution to set well and dry, and for the masonry to settle.

How to properly waterproof a pit in a garage

Waterproofing protection is a very important component of the inspection hole, especially when the groundwater lies quite high in the ground. At high humidity:

• the pit can be flooded with water;
• the bottom of the car, which is constantly located on the SA, begins to rust;
• If the insulation is not of sufficient quality, the excavated pit gradually collapses and becomes unusable.

In order for the inspection pit to serve for a long time, it is necessary to waterproof the pit in the garage very well, use materials that could provide waterproofing for long years. The following are usually used as waterproofing materials:

• various types of roofing felt;
• bitumen mixture (designed for 10-15 years of construction service life);
• polymer film (geotextile, can last for decades);
• dry mineral mixtures are diluted with water before direct use;
• liquid latex-based rubber, its service life is 20 years or more;
• a mixture of petroleum products with liquid clay (for initial treatment of walls and floors).

If the groundwater runs high enough, even high-quality waterproofing does not guarantee reliable protection from moisture, only a well-designed drainage system with water drainage into a natural or artificial reservoir will help here.

Construction of a pit in the garage according to all the rules

To properly make a hole according to all the rules, it is not enough just to dig a pit, strengthen the walls and floor, it is also necessary:

• install natural and forced ventilation;
• install electric lamps;
• build a shelter (mortgage frame), it will protect against accidental falling into the hole;
• think over a descent system (build a removable ladder or lay steps in the pit).

An even more “advanced” option is to make a cellar in a viewing hole, in which case you can store pickles and fresh vegetables in the garage for the winter.

How to make a vegetable pit in the garage

If the garage already has an inspection hole, the cellar is made separately, at the other end of the room or next to it, usually it is located at a short distance from the wall, about half a meter, and unlike the SY, it has slightly different dimensions:

• length – 2.5-3 m;
• width – 2-2.5 m;
• depth - approximately 1.7 m.

The dimensions of the cellar may differ from the above dimensions, it all depends on the size of the garage itself. This building must have a sealed hatch cover, ladder(it is better to make it from wood). The cellar should provide:

• protection from moisture;
• ventilation;
• sleeping sinus.

Electricity and thermal insulation vegetable pit supplemented as desired, it is important to consider two points before construction:

• you need to make sure that there are no power wires, water supply or gas pipelines running under the future cellar;
• groundwater must pass below the level of the foundation of the proposed vegetable pit.

As when creating a cellar for a cellar, we also first dig a pit, then:

• sprinkle and compact a layer of crushed stone on the bottom, approximately 10-12 cm;
• lay the next layer - construction sand (about 15 cm), careful compaction is also required here;
• fill the bottom of the pit with bitumen or another similar composition, if waterproofing is necessary, with roofing felt (you can also use other similar material);
• fill it with concrete, for the strength of the structure it is advisable to reinforce it;
• we give concrete mortar let it set well and dry, then we strengthen the walls - fill it with concrete or lay it out with brick (the latter option is the most preferable).

Standard thickness walls - one and a half bricks, for strength and better waterproofing coat the masonry with bitumen solution. The walls of the pit must be very strong, because the car can be placed anywhere in the garage, and it is not advisable to leave it for storage in an inspection pit.

The ceiling in the cellar is made in the form of a vault, in order to hold the ceiling bricks during construction, they are laid out on a plank template. The upper part of the cellar can be made of concrete, the main thing is that it is durable, and the manhole is usually made in the middle. In a vegetable pit, the ceiling is often insulated; foam and expanded clay are used as materials; in order to secure the insulating layer, it is filled with hot bitumen. Glass wool, sawdust and cement are also used for insulation; thermal insulation may not be used in mild and warm climates.

In the cellar it is necessary to make shelves for food supplies and containers for storing vegetables. Shelves are usually made of boards and beams; ventilation of the room is mainly ensured through natural ventilation. Forced ventilation provides air circulation more efficiently, but also requires more significant financial costs. Typically, an electric fan is used for forced exhaust; it is mounted directly in the ventilation pipe.

Thermal insulation of the pit

In fairly cold climates, thermal insulation in a garage is of considerable importance; adding a thermal insulation layer allows you to save on heating costs and provide a more comfortable temperature in the room. Extruded foam plastic and polystyrene are mainly used as thermal insulation material; expanded clay cushion also helps to retain heat.

Usually foam is laid on top vapor barrier film, then filled with concrete. Expanded clay is laid at the bottom of the inspection hole, acting not only as insulation, but also as a stabilizer for the floor of the building.

Location of the cellar and pit for the car

The inspection hole in the garage can have different locations, placed either in the center or closer to the edge. Being in the center is convenient if the garage is quite narrow and there are no or minimal workbenches, tables, other furniture, or a separate room. When a small auto repair shop is organized in a garage, it is more convenient to move the hole to one edge, but so that a car can safely and freely drive into it. The cellar can be located anywhere, of course, if there is no inspection hole in the garage. When a pit is available, it is advisable to place the cellar at the end of the garage, behind the SY.

Garage drainage system

A water drainage system is necessary in case of high groundwater levels, high humidity soil. Drainage can be done by different scheme, but there are basic rules for its construction:

• the drainage trench is dug deep down to the level of the foundation of the pit;
• ditches should be located outside the garage, somewhere at a distance of half a meter from the building along its perimeter;
• a drainage well is required for drainage;
• drainage pipes are a single closed system with water drainage.

To prevent damage to the drainage system, a sand and gravel cushion of approximately 10 cm is laid in the bottom of the trench, then the pipeline is covered with geotextile film. A ravine can serve as a drainage well; if there are no natural depressions near the garage, you must use any suitable container, observing the following conditions:

• the well should be located lower than 20 cm from the level of the lowest point of the pipeline;
• the outlet pipe of the drainage system must be suitable for the container;
• Mostly a plastic container is used as a water storage; an iron vessel is subject to rust, will fail much faster and will not be able to work for its intended purpose.

Above drainage tubes a sand and gravel cushion is also made; the soil should be compacted over the drainage carefully, trying not to damage the pipeline; water from the garage should be drained at a distance of at least 5 meters.

Pit lighting

Lamps in the inspection pit provide comfortable conditions work, the following are usually used as lighting devices:

• stationary lamps in shades, designed for voltage 36 or 220 Volts;
• carrying, it is better if it has a long wire;
• low-power 12-volt lamps;
• LED lights;
• Battery-powered LED lamps.

36-volt lighting fixtures are the most popular luminaires for cars. repair work, as a rule, are carried out in a waterproof case and are safe to use. Quite often, 220 Volt lamps are also installed in the garage, since they do not require a step-down transformer, but here you have to take care of reliable grounding, and it is necessary to work with such lamps while observing safety precautions.

Rechargeable lighting devices are quite expensive and difficult to repair, but sometimes you can’t do without them, for example, if there is no stationary power in the garage. Alternatively, you can carry it by taking a 12 V voltage from a car battery, but in this case the light will be quite dim.

Closing the pit

The lid covering the pit can be made of various materials:

• welded metal rods;
• edged board;
• plastic.

It can also be made from combined materials. The two most important qualities of a pit cover are strength and low weight; the structure should move easily and withstand the weight of a person. If the car is often or for a long time left in a pit, it is advisable to make a tight cover, for example, from a board/bars of a “magpie”, in this case the moisture will practically not settle on the bottom of the car.

The wooden shield should be sanded, impregnated with varnish, and the metal should be sanded and painted; such a frame will serve for a long time, will not rust or rot. For ease of removal and installation, the cover should be supplemented with one or two handles; a folding mechanism can also be provided in the design.

Pit ventilation in the garage

The type of ventilation largely depends on the size of the garage, for fairly large garage structures you can limit yourself to natural ventilation; for small rooms forced ventilation is necessary. The exhaust vent is almost always made from above, near the ceiling, in the room it is closed with a metal or plastic grill, forced ventilation installed below, no higher than 0.5 m from the floor.

They try to make the exhaust hole for natural ventilation on the leeward side; usually it is protected from rain and snow from the outside garage roof. Power for the electric fan is taken from the local power supply or battery, the direction of movement of the blades is selected experimentally.

Tools for making a hole

The number of tools used when digging an inspection hole depends on the complexity of the installation; at a minimum you will need:

• tape measure;
• chalk for marking;
• bayonet/scoop shovels;
• containers for diluting solutions (buckets, barrels);
• building level or plumb line;
• pick;
• electric drill;
• hammer;
• large ruler, measuring angle;
• materials for surface treatment - sandpaper, graters, etc.

If you need to heat up bitumen, you will need a gas burner; preparing cement mortar is easier and faster using a concrete mixer. Also most often additionally required:

• welding machine;
• angle grinder;
• knife or scissors for cutting materials;
• roller for laying bitumen.

If you have to dismantle a concrete floor, you cannot do without a concrete cutter, jackhammer or powerful hammer drill. When cutting concrete slab It should be taken into account that under the concrete layer there is steel reinforcement(at a depth of approximately 50-100 mm), it will have to be cut with a circular saw.

Materials used

Almost any normally equipped inspection pit will require concrete, it can be:

• cement-sand mortar in a cement/sand ratio of 1:3 or 1:4;
• a mixture of cement, construction sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1/3/4.5 (rough concrete).

Also for the manufacture of walls and floors you will need:

• crushed stone, gravel;
• expanded clay;
• slurry;
• waterproofing materials (roofing felt, bitumen mastic and resin);
• vapor barrier film;
• steel angle/channel;
• boards and wooden beams;
• thermal insulation materials (foam plastic, polypropylene, glass wool, etc.);
• steel rods or ready-made reinforced lattice;
• nails;
• brick (in case of using brickwork).

If a drainage system is provided, you will need PVC pipes, connecting parts, possibly a container for a manhole. To give an aesthetic appearance the inspection pit from the outside can be decorated with tiles or other materials for decorative finishing.

The service life of the waterproofing system largely depends on the quality of the materials used, the care of workers, the thoroughness of waterproofing, and compliance with all construction rules. A well-made inspection pit will last for decades and will be very useful when carrying out repairs and servicing a car, for example, using it is very convenient to change the oil in the engine, gearbox, and repair the chassis.

In a garage, an inspection hole becomes simply irreplaceable. With it, you can regularly carry out practically professional technical inspections, make scheduled replacement of parts, as well as repairs, if necessary. Of course, if a car enthusiast devotes enough time to his car, repairs and inspects it himself, he simply needs to arrange the premises accordingly. Today we will learn how a building can be built with bricks. We will define all the most important stages, useful tips, let’s find out what algorithm to use to build the pit. In addition, we will consider a specific algorithm for constructing a brick inspection pit.

First of all, you will need to carry out comprehensive preparatory work. Now we will highlight all the most important points.

Groundwater

One risk factor is of great importance - the level of groundwater rise. The final success of the construction of the inspection pit largely depends on this. In some cases, it is necessary to abandon the construction of such a pit or cellar. You need to be prepared in advance for the fact that the water level will be critical.

Unfortunately, in some populated areas There are no specialized geological services at all that carry out relevant research. But you can independently determine the level of groundwater rise with fairly high accuracy. This is done as follows. You need to dig a hole 2.5 meters deep. Watch to what level the water rises. When the worst forecasts are confirmed, that is, the waters lie too close to ground level, it is better to abandon the construction of a viewing hole. Of course, purely theoretically, it is possible to ensure waterproofing even in such a situation, but then the pit will resemble more of a bunker, great effort and investment in construction will be required, and the danger of flooding will still remain.

Another option that will help you deal with natural factor risk lies in the arrangement of drainage. It happens that a car enthusiast works on his car professionally, he needs an inspection hole, but there is no opportunity to choose another area. In this case, high-quality drainage of groundwater should be done. A special drainage well is dug outside the garage, where the water is drained. But such work is labor-intensive and requires significant investments.

We correctly determine the dimensions of the inspection hole

It is very important to immediately accurately determine the optimal parameters of the inspection hole. It shouldn’t be too big, but it’s also inconvenient to work in tight spaces. Everything must be selected correctly, of course, in accordance with the dimensions of the car.

Let us dwell on the methods for determining key parameters.

• Pit length. Consider the vehicle parameters. Usually the standard length of the inspection hole for passenger car is approximately 4-5 meters. To arrange a convenient descent with an extension or monolithic ladder, you need to add another meter. This good parameters, which are focused on comfortable, rational use of the inspection pit. You will no longer need to regularly move the car during repair work, as happens if the hole is too small or short.
• Width. Here the distance between the wheels of the car plays a key role for you. Standard parameter for modern passenger cars - a pit with a width of 75-80 cm. This width will be quite enough, and it will not be too large.
• Depth. Everything here is strictly individual. Of course, they work standing in the inspection pit. Some dig shallow holes so as not to provoke pressure and flow of groundwater, but it is inconvenient to work while sitting on a stool. It is better to make a good deep inspection hole. Approximately 15 cm is added to the height of the car enthusiast. When any doubts arise about the depth (for example, when several people of different heights are planned to work in the pit), of course, it is better to make it larger. After all, if necessary, you can simply make a small platform under your feet.

When the parameters are determined, you need to make a drawing and write everything on it exact dimensions. Then this diagram is transferred to the construction site, digging a pit.

Construction methods

The construction process will largely depend on the method of arranging the inspection pit. The best option is to lay the foundation right away, even at the construction stage. strip foundation and garage basement. In this case, the pit is also dug by an excavator. At the same time, work is underway to waterproof, ventilate and insulate the pit and the garage space as a whole.

But quite often you have to do construction after the garage box has been erected. Of course, then you have to dig the pit manually.

Please note one important point. You will need soil from the development so that you can then fill the sinuses with it, as well as raise the floor level in the room. The fact is that the garage floor is made at a level higher than the road on which the car drives.

Building a viewing hole

It's time to take a closer look at how to build a brick inspection pit with your own hands. Let's start by clarifying some points.

Determining the size of the pit

We have already talked about the parameters of the inspection hole. But it is important to remember: the foundation pit must be more hole! Please note the following:

You will have to lay out a leveling layer, which will consist of gravel, crushed stone and sand. The standard thickness of such a layer is 50-100 mm. This must be added to the depth.

The bottom is made of concrete with grade 150-200, the thickness of which is approximately 100 mm. This is also reflected in the depth of the pit.

The width and length also increase, since the thickness of the brick walls is 250 mm when construction is carried out in one brick. In addition, a gap of approximately 30-40 mm must be left between the masonry and the wall of the pit, in order to then waterproof the outside and compact it with soil.

Work algorithm

You will need crushed stone, concrete grade 200, cement, gravel and sand, as well as waterproofing sheet materials (izolon), plaster, brushes with shovels, a level, an extension stepladder, a metal corner, boards, polystyrene foam for insulation, metal pipes and grilles for ventilation devices .

Let's move on to step-by-step instructions.

1. First of all, all the markings from the drawing are transferred to the garage floor in the place where you decided to make an inspection hole.
2. Then you need to dig a pit. The bottom is thoroughly cleaned, after which the floor in the pit is arranged. While working, it is better to go down into the pit using a ladder.
3. After leveling the floor, horizontal waterproofing of the bottom is installed. Use rolled materials, for example, the well-known isolon. The material is popular and proven. You can take roofing material, or, in extreme cases, thick plastic film.
4. Be sure to extend the edges of the waterproofing material 50 cm beyond the bottom of the pit. Then they are wrapped and attached to the outer surface of the brickwork.
5. An important stage is concreting the bottom. Here you need to immediately take into account the dimensions of the concrete base. If the pit is planned to be 75 cm wide, add the thickness of the brickwork (50 cm around the perimeter), and also make a reserve of 5-10 cm. As a result, the width is 140 cm. The width of the concrete base is calculated using the same scheme.
6. Reinforcement is optional, although for greater reliability and durability it is better to lay a reinforcing metal mesh. If you took the concrete mixture M-200, and the thickness concrete bottom is more than 80 cm, it is quite acceptable to do without reinforcement.
7. Then the time comes when it is necessary to allow the concrete to harden. This will take at least 3 days.
8. Now it's time to start laying the brick walls of the inspection pit. Make arrangements carefully, use a level to ensure that the masonry is adjusted horizontally. There are enough walls of one brick here. Don't forget that you need to leave a gap between the walls of the pit and the masonry.
9. Carefully plaster the walls on both sides. Good decision– plaster the masonry in parallel with the construction of walls. So, having laid out 4 rows, you need to cover them with a layer of plaster on the outside and inside.
10. Pay more attention to the exterior wall decoration. Quality is needed coating waterproofing. Use bitumen mastic, hot bitumen. Such waterproofing must be carried out in two layers. This cannot be avoided, since this is the measure that will prevent the appearance of dampness in the inspection hole. Otherwise, the walls will draw moisture from the ground.
11. When the masonry is completely completed, the external waterproofing is done, it’s time to fill the existing sinuses. Here you will need the soil left over from digging the pit. It is poured 15 cm deep, thoroughly compacted, then the next layer is made. This layer-by-layer compaction is also very important. The best decision– add clay to the soil. The compacted clay layer will become a reliable additional barrier to moisture penetration, as well as a monolithic support for the masonry.

If you want to provide lighting into the inspection hole, immediately provide niches in the masonry for lighting fixtures. It is also worth making an additional large niche to store the most popular tool, wrenches.

Setting up a viewing hole

It is important to carry out sufficient additional work to fully equip the inspection pit in the garage.

Niches

They are useful for lighting fixtures and tools. They need to be provided for during the laying of brick walls. The optimal dimensions for a standard niche are as follows: depth 12 cm, height 25-30 cm, and length approximately 50-75 cm.

Water collection

A pit is a very useful thing in a viewing hole. After all, even with impeccable waterproofing, you will need to somehow get rid of moisture that can be carried on the wheels or drip from the car. The best option is to make a liquid collector at the bottom of the inspection hole. To do this, to one corner it is done minimum slope. A small depression is dug there. It is also cemented so that the edges do not collapse. Since you can accidentally step on it, the pit is covered with a strong grate.

Ventilation

It is advisable to make forced or natural ventilation in the inspection pit. Use metal pipes and a small fan. Ventilation will help quickly remove all harmful fumes from the pit, as well as prevent the formation of condensation. And being in such a space is much more comfortable and safer.

Strengthening the edges of the pit

The edges of the pit must be well reinforced. Be sure to do this so that the hole does not crumble and can withstand the pressure of the car wheels. You will need a metal corner No. 45-50. A framing frame is welded from it around the entire perimeter of the inspection hole. In order for the frame to be securely fixed, anchor outlets with a diameter of 6-10 mm must be welded to the outer sides. They should be located every 25 cm. When the garage floor is additionally concreted, they go into the concrete base.

Closing the pit

To protect the pit from everyone external influences, it is advisable to close it for those periods when not in use. It is worth considering this point already at the stage of welding the corners for the frame. Weld them so that the boards fit comfortably into it along the narrow side.

Wheel limiters

Consider the moment the car enters the area above the inspection hole. To prevent the wheels from even accidentally getting into it, it is necessary to specially install limiters for them. To do this, take a metal profile: angle, channel or pipe. The metal frame should rise above the floor, protecting the pit from the entry of a car.

Insulation

A good solution is to insulate the inspection hole. For this purpose, sheets of expanded polystyrene are suitable, which can simply be glued to brick walls.

Lighting

Also take care of lighting the pit space. Install lamps in pre-prepared niches and run cables through plastic channels. Lighting will ensure comfortable work at any time.

Step-by-step instructions with photos from the garage man

Instructions with step-by-step photos allow you to get a clear idea of ​​the process of building a brick inspection pit with your own hands.

1. At first it was easy to work: sand was being dug.
2. Then the clay came in, so it became more difficult to dig.
3. I made a waterproofing box from isoplast. Temporarily laid down boards for fixation.
   
4. I laid the reinforcing mesh.
   
5. I started laying brick walls.
   
6. I made niches on the sides.
   
7. Recesses different sizes: for tools, for lamps.
8. The niches were also decorated with metal frames.
   
9. The niche for the lamp is small.
   
10. I took one part of concrete, two parts each of cement and crushed stone. Made a concrete pour.
    
11. Concrete was poured carefully: inside the floor, outside, around the hole to further strengthen it.
    
12. Carefully plastered the walls.
    
13. I made a socket in my pocket for a portable lamp.
    
14. I ran the cable.
    
15. I inserted a lamp into the niche.
    
16. This is what the finished pit looks like with lighting.
    

Video: learning to make a viewing hole

You will be able to better understand all the intricacies of building an inspection hole in the garage if you look next material on video. You can make a hole with your own hands. The main thing is to remember everything important tips, work algorithm. A complete picture will be obtained after watching the following video: it explains in detail and is shown on specific example How to build a viewing hole in a garage.

Be careful, act carefully.

Every car owner sooner or later faces minor repairs to his vehicle. A routine check of a car's technical condition can turn into hours of waiting. Having your own inspection hole in the garage, which you can make yourself, will save money and time.

Functions and necessity of a viewing and vegetable pit in the garage

The need for an inspection pit in the garage is obvious, since in cases of oil changes, minor repairs to the bottom of the body or a routine inspection, you have to set aside several hours to travel to a service station and pay for expensive service.

The pit for technical inspection of a car can also be used as a cellar or vegetable storage. For this purpose, niches and shelves are constructed inside it.

The condition for the high-quality use of an inspection pit as a technical structure and a place for storing products is compliance with all construction standards and the availability reliable waterproofing floor and walls.

Even such a simple design requires careful planning. An important point in this regard is the determination of soil quality and groundwater levels. The most suitable foundation for such structures is clay soil. Its peculiarity is that it does not allow moisture to pass through, which means it can become a kind of waterproofing layer.

If there is a large accumulation of groundwater and a high level of its location, the inspection pit is additionally equipped with a drainage system for drainage excess moisture, and submersible pumps so that the room can be quickly dried.

Step-by-step guide to making a viewing hole

You can install the inspection pit yourself. There is nothing complicated about this if you follow the detailed instructions.

How to determine size

To calculate the area of ​​the future inspection pit, you need to take into account the thickness of the walls and base. For such calculations, it is necessary to remember the geometry course and resort to a simple formula that determines the area - S = ah, where a is the length, h is the width of the pit. Inspection hole in finished form will have dimensions 75x185x300 cm. Thickness concrete walls and the floor, as a rule, is about 10 cm. The calculations will be as follows: 0.85x3 = 2.55 m² - this is the area of ​​the pit for the inspection pit.

Comfortable work in the inspection pit is created by a correctly calculated space, namely, its parameters should be convenient for the build of the person in it. Typically, the width of the pit is built in the range from 70 to 75 cm. This width is enough for you to move freely inside. The same distance between the walls makes the observation structure convenient for entry passenger car.

The pit may be wider if the inspection pit is intended for large vehicles or trucks. Distance between internal parties The wheels of such vehicles are much larger (from 80 to 90 cm).

The inspection pit is arranged in such a way that the walls are slightly narrower towards the floor. Schematically, in cross-section, its design resembles an inverted trapezoid. This shape provides convenient access to tools in niches and free movement.

The length of the inspection hole is selected based on the size of the garage. If the space of the room allows, then a staircase can be provided in the pit. To do this, the length of the pit is increased by 100–120 cm.

Depth of the pit “with reserve” for installing the floor

The height of the pit is at least 170–180 cm. These dimensions are relative, since the depth is made in accordance with the height of the car owner. While in the inspection hole, a person should not touch the bottom of the car with his head.

For additional safety of the car and its owner, an inspection pit is equipped metal stops. They usually consist of four pillars fixed at the corners of a niche. They rise 10–15 cm above it. Sometimes for technical inspection, not four pillars, but two metal corners are used. They are fastened against each other along the edges of the length of the pit.

The depth should be 25–30 cm greater than the owner’s height. With such a distance from the base to the body, the arms will not get tired quickly, as this makes it possible for them to be in a bent position.

Materials and tools

Most often, concrete, wood, metal or brick are used for manufacturing.

To calculate the required amount of concrete, you must use a formula that determines the volume. To do this, you need to multiply the length, width and height of the wall. Similar calculations are carried out for the floor.

If brick is used in the construction of the pit, then, knowing its parameters, it is easy to calculate required amount of this material in pieces. The dimensions of the red brick are 250x120x60 mm.

When building a viewing hole, you cannot do without the following tools:

• shovel and bayonet shovel;
• buckets for excavated earth and concrete mixture;
• trowels;
• welding machine;
• hacksaws.

The following materials are also required:

• bricks;
• cement, sand, crushed stone;
• M200 concrete for the base;
• boards with a section of 400x50 mm;
• reinforcing bars;
• metal corner 50 mm wide;
• waterproofing material.

Instructions for making an inspection pit from bricks, boards, concrete and iron

All work must be done in a strict sequence of steps:

1. Before making a hole in the garage, you need to mark the area. After the pit has been dug, its bottom can be covered with a raised floor or constructed comfortable stands. If the soil is unstable, it must be strengthened with boards and spacers. Remember that loosened earth is 25–30% larger in volume than the dimensions of the pit. It should not be removed immediately, since part of the soil will be needed to compact the space between the pit wall and the brickwork (concrete, metal sheet, boards). Another part of the earth will be needed to level the floor throughout the garage.
2. At the stage of forming the pit, it is necessary to take care of equipping niches in the walls. They are convenient for holding lighting fixtures, tools, and materials. It is recommended to place niches at elbow height. You don't have to bend over for the tool.
3. When the pit is dug, it is necessary to level and compress its bottom. For this, a tamper is used, which can be constructed using self-tapping screws, thick (100 to 150 mm in diameter) and thin timber (for the handle). To do this, attach a thin one to the end of one side of a thick beam. The design will resemble the letter “T”, with the striking part at its base. Pour medium-sized gravel onto the prepared surface and compact it.
4. Then you need to prepare the concrete mixture for pouring the floor. To make the base more durable, it must be reinforced with metal mesh or rods. The dimensions of the cells in the metal frame should not exceed 15 cm. The grating should not be allowed to touch the bottom of the pit.
5. Pour concrete, completely covering metal carcass. It will take from 7 to 21 days for the mixture to harden. It depends on the air temperature.
6. When the concrete has completely hardened, you can begin building walls in the inspection pit.

Features of installation of partitions depend on the material used.

Concrete inspection pit

Before pouring the mixture, it is necessary to make formwork. The best way to do this is to use OSB boards. This material does not allow the poured mixture to pass through and does not deform over time. The plates are fastened together using boards and screws so that the distance between them is at least 15 cm.

To maintain shape wooden structure it must be secured with spacers. Gaps in the joints of the slabs should be absent or minimal. A reinforcing mesh should be installed inside the finished formwork.

There is an option for pouring concrete with one-sided formwork. To do this, it is necessary to cover the walls of the pit with waterproofing material. Next, OSB boards are installed along the inner perimeter of the pit. A metal mesh is placed between them and the waterproofing. Concrete is poured inside this structure.

Brick inspection pit

A waterproofing sheet is placed in the finished pit. It should completely cover the floor and walls. The canvas must be laid with an overlap. To prevent the edges of the material from lifting up, they are pressed down with boards. A half-brick masonry is made on top of the waterproofing. When the wall reaches a height of 135 cm, you can make niches and then continue laying to the top edge of the pit. On the last row It is recommended to install a metal frame from a corner, and it should be welded in such a way that one shelf on each side is parallel to the floor. Thick boards will be laid on it to cover the pit. Next, they pour the concrete floor in the garage.

Inspection pit made of metal sheets (caisson)

This design resembles a large box. During its manufacture, the sheets must be joined by continuous welding. The finished structure must be carefully treated with anti-corrosion coatings. The box should be equipped with fasteners. They are welded metal corners that rest 100–150 cm into the ground. They are attached to the body on four sides. They will hold the box in place. If this is not done, the entire structure will simply float when the groundwater level rises.

Inspection pit made of wooden planks

Wood without proper treatment quickly rots. Therefore, the material must be impregnated with special antifungal substances and additionally waterproofed. It is better to take thick boards for walls. The material is installed horizontally. Spacers are secured along the edges of the narrow sides of the inspection hole.

Waterproofing device

This process is carried out both before the construction of the structure (external insulation) and after its construction (internal insulation).

If the garage is located in an area with a low groundwater level, then many owners are in no hurry to isolate the inspection pit from moisture. However, the hydrological situation of any area changes every year, so it is recommended to take care of insulation at the construction stage. For this purpose, special films or membranes are used, for example, butyl rubber, aquaizol. They need to be laid in a pit. The edges of the material should be laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm. To obtain a sealed seam at the overlap, use double-sided tape.

When installing a film or membrane, it is important not to damage its integrity. Otherwise, moisture from the soil will enter the hole.

The laid waterproofing layer is melted using blowtorch. As a result, the film straightens, fitting more tightly to the walls and bottom of the inspection pit.

Do-it-yourself internal waterproofing of an inspection pit in a garage involves treating the surface of the finished inspection structure with liquid substances, which, when dry, form a dense water-repellent layer. The composition for treating swimming pools has proven itself well. It is applied with a thick, wide brush, and when it hardens, the substance forms a waterproof material resembling rubber. For greater reliability, more than two layers should be applied.

Insulating material can be applied using a spray gun

There is another way of internal insulation from moisture - this is the use of special cement-based primers, which tend to be deeply absorbed into the applied material. This effect is achieved thanks to the polymer particles that are in the mixture. They block capillaries that allow moisture to penetrate through the base material.

How to close a finished inspection hole

A covered inspection hole will not only protect the car from accidental failure, but will also serve as an additional waterproofing layer. In the absence of a cover, evaporated moisture settles on the lower parts of the car body, thereby creating favorable conditions for the formation of metal corrosion. To avoid such problems, the inspection hole is covered. For this purpose, sheets of metal or boards are used.

Wood is a relatively inexpensive and lightweight material. If necessary, the boards are easy to replace. They are selected from hard woods, such as oak and larch. Before use, the boards are coated with antifungal impregnations and antiseptic substances. They are placed in the openings of metal corners fixed at the top of the inspection hole. The thickness of each board must be more than 40 mm.

Using metal is less convenient, since this material is heavy, expensive, and not resistant to corrosion. During use, its surface bends.

Video: DIY inspection hole in the garage

Step-by-step guide to building an insulated vegetable pit

The construction of a vegetable pit has its own characteristics.

Drawing

For a vegetable pit, both the presence of waterproofing and depth are important.

The place for storing vegetables must be below the freezing point. Otherwise, the point of storing food is lost, since it will be spoiled by low temperatures.

The freezing point depends on the region where the garage is located, for example, Vin the northern regions the ground freezes up to 150 cm. Taking this fact into account, you should dig a pit with a depth of at least 190 cm. From 10 to 15 cm must be allocated for the drainage layer under the base, another 10 cm is required to install the ceiling. 170–175 cm remains for placing shelves, racks and niches for vegetables and lighting. The depth also depends on the height of the owner.

Option with optimal sizes for this building

The optimal width of the pit for vegetables is 150 cm. This size allows you to optimally place shelves and racks, while a person will not be constrained in movement inside the pit. To select the length, you need to follow the rule - the pit should not reach closer than 50 cm to the walls of the garage.

Required materials and tools

To make a vegetable pit in the garage you will need the following materials:

• waterproofing sheet;
• reinforcing bars;
• sand;
• gravel;
• boards for formwork;
• metal corners;
• wire;
• bricks, metal sheets, boards or concrete M 250.

When building this structure, you cannot do without the following tools:

• bayonet and shovel;
• concrete mixers;
• containers for concrete mixture and water;
• blowtorch;
• double-sided tape;
• screwdriver.

Calculations of materials for the construction of a vegetable pit are similar to the inspection pit.

Manufacturing instructions

Having prepared all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin building a vegetable pit:

1. It is necessary to mark out the area for the pit. This can be conveniently done using a stretched cord and pegs.
2. When the markup is ready, you can start earthworks. When determining the dimensions of the future pit, you should take into account the thickness of the walls and floor in accordance with the selected material for construction.
3. The walls and floor must be covered with a layer of bitumen. This procedure is required if the groundwater level is quite high. Bitumen will serve as an additional waterproofing layer.
4. Now it's time to build the foundation. To do this, you will need to level the surface of the bottom of the pit, then pour in sand and distribute it evenly. After this, compress this layer to a thickness of 10 cm. Place gravel on top of the sand cushion, which also needs to be compacted.
5. The concrete base must be reinforced with metal rods. For this you need rods with a diameter of 8–10 mm. The intersections of the rods must be secured with wire. The result should be a metal lattice with cells no larger than 15 cm. This frame must be installed at a distance of 5 cm from the day of the pit. It is convenient to use fragments of bricks for this..
6. Having installed the mesh, you can begin pouring concrete. It should be taken into account that the mixture must completely cover the metal frame with a layer of at least 10 cm. Leave for 14 days to harden.
7. After the specified period, waterproofing work is carried out. Then they begin to build the walls of the structure. For greater masonry strength, it is necessary to lay reinforcing material (mesh or wire) under each row of bricks. Continue building the walls up to the level of the garage floor.

   Ventilation pipes help long-term storage vegetables

8. Make a frame from a metal corner. The dimensions must match the top edge of the pit. Install this frame on top of the cellar. It will serve as the basis for installing ceiling boards. The top of the cellar can be left as is, but to create a more permanent structure, work with concrete will be required. The installed boards will serve as the basis for creating concrete ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to carry out all the actions with the reinforcing lattice and pouring concrete. A place for a hatch should also be provided. Inside the pit, you should support the top with logs. They will serve as temporary supports until concrete mixture won't harden. You also need to provide a hole in the ceiling of the pit to install a ventilation pipe. You can use any material for this. Most convenient option will use a plastic or asbestos-cement pipe.

Waterproofing device

The issue of insulating the inner surface of the cellar from moisture should be treated with particular care. This is important, since the slightest hole in the waterproofing will become a source of dampness and cause spoilage of vegetables.

You can proceed to this stage only if the concrete is completely dry. You will need a waterproofing sheet or aquaizol. This material must be used to cover the walls and floor of the vegetable pit. The canvas must be laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm. The joints are secured using a blowtorch or double-sided tape. All actions with the lamp should be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the canvas, otherwise moisture will get inside the vegetable pit. The same materials cover the outer part of the ceiling of the pit.

How to insulate a cellar in a garage

Solving the issue of insulating a cellar in a garage is as important as installing waterproofing. The insulation will help maintain a stable temperature inside the pit. For this you can use mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

To install foam panels, you will need plastic umbrella dowels. The installation process is as follows:

1. Using a drill or hammer drill, five holes are drilled in the plate attached to the wall (in the corners and in the middle of the material).
2. Plastic dowels are driven into them and screws are screwed into them.
3. The joints of the slabs are filled with polyurethane foam.

In the northern regions, where the air temperature drops below 25–30ºС, it is also necessary to insulate the ceiling of the vegetable pit. To prevent the foam from crumbling over time, you can cover it with any finishing material. This will create an additional thermal insulation effect.

Video: how to make a dry pit, cellar, basement in a garage of the required width

Making a viewing or vegetable pit in the garage with your own hands is not at all difficult. It is enough to listen to the recommendations of specialists and follow step by step instructions. If desired, these two rooms can be combined.

Every car enthusiast can ensure comfort when diagnosing and repairing their car. A DIY inspection hole in the garage will solve this problem. It is easier to install an inspection hole during the construction of the garage itself.

Determining location and size

Before starting construction work, you should geological surveys. From them you can find out the location of groundwater passing under the garage. This affects the size and depth of the hole.

The dimensions of the inspection hole in the garage must be selected optimally. You should not allocate a lot of space for it, but it should remain comfortable when working in it.

If the garage is planned to be used only for storing a car, then it is convenient to place the inspection hole in the center. If you want to use this room as a small workshop, it is better to place it closer to one of the walls.

The width of the inspection hole in the garage depends on the type of car. The main role will be played by the distance between the wheels. For modern passenger cars, the standard pit is 75-80 cm wide. The choice of length depends on the specific model. Usually it is 4-5 meters. If you plan to make a ladder for descending, then you should add another meter.

The depth of the inspection hole in the garage depends on the height of the car owner. It should be 25-30 cm larger than it. This position will reduce fatigue when working, since the arms will be in a bent position. Having decided on the parameters, you can begin drawing up the drawing.

When determining the dimensions, you should leave an “allowance” for the thickness of the walls and floor.

DIY inspection hole in the garage

A do-it-yourself pit for a car involves purchasing the necessary materials before starting construction. The most commonly used are concrete and brick.

To reinforce the walls, you need to purchase metal mesh, steel rods and corners. When pouring concrete, you will need cement, crushed stone and sand. Waterproofing will require purchase sheet materials such as isolon and roofing felt, and ventilation - pipes and gratings.

Tools required for work:

• shovel;
• welding machine;
• roulette;
• level;
• concrete mixer;
• hammer;
• bucket;
• Screwdriver Set;
• pliers;
• Master OK;
• Circular Saw;
• electric drill;
• grater for leveling;
• rule;
• self-tapping screws;

We make a hole in the garage correctly with our own hands - you need to start by transferring the drawing to scale to the prepared place. Then comes the turn of digging a pit. If the inspection hole is made before the garage walls are built, then you can use an excavator, otherwise you will have to dig manually.

The bottom of the dug hole should be cleaned and the floor in the hole should begin to be arranged. A layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick should be poured onto the bottom and compacted thoroughly. Pour a layer of sand on top, half the height, and also compact it. Then lay a waterproofing film on which to install a reinforcing frame. Fill it with M200 concrete on top of the pre-built formwork. The minimum thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm. Now you will have to wait a few days until the concrete dries completely.

Construction of walls

When constructing an inspection pit in a garage with your own hands, one of the main stages is the construction of walls. First make the formwork. It is convenient to make it from sheet material.

Shields strengthened by outside bars so that under the pressure of the gravity of the concrete they do not begin to sag. Then install the internal panels so that the distance to the external ones is at least 15 cm. Place spacers between them.

Before filling a hole in the garage with concrete, it is advisable to lay a frame of reinforcement. The diameter of the rods should be about 6-8 mm. The gratings should be installed so that they are in the middle between the outer and inner sides of the formwork. At the corners, tie the reinforcement bars with tying wire. To do this, use a special crochet hook.

Reinforcing the pit in the garage will give it the necessary strength. When the formwork is completely assembled, fill it with concrete. Filling should be done in layers, compacting each layer with a bayonet shovel. Remove the formwork a few days after the concrete has completely dried. Pour soil into the gaps formed and compact each layer thoroughly.

Concrete pouring should be done in one day.

Expose dried walls finishing. This includes plaster, tile or gypsum fiber finishing.

Brick inspection pit

It is convenient to make an inspection hole in the garage with your own hands from brick.

Start laying bricks from the corners on top of the waterproofing sheet. Check the horizontal position of the bottom row using a level. To strengthen the structure, a metal mesh should be laid every two rows. Prepare a mortar for fastening bricks from cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. The verticality of the walls during their construction is controlled using a rope plumb line.

Lay out the walls of the inspection pit to the level specified in the project. Install a metal frame from a corner on the top row. To fix the frame, weld anchor reinforcement to its side, the other end entering the body of the floor concrete.

After complete drying, you can cover it with brick walls decorative tiles. A special feature of a brick inspection pit is that you can make niches in the wall for tools, which makes repairs in a garage inspection pit more convenient. The floor is poured with concrete after the brick walls are erected.

To ensure the safety of the car entering the garage, wheel guards should be installed to prevent the car from accidentally sliding into the inspection hole. They represent a barrier metal profile, which is installed slightly above the floor.

Ventilation

It is advisable to supplement the installation of an inspection pit in the garage with ventilation, since due to temperature differences the humidity becomes increased. The resulting condensation settles on the underside of the car, which can lead to the formation of rust.

Ventilation can be natural or forced. The natural method is most often used. Exhaust duct made from a plastic or asbestos-cement pipe at a distance of 10-15 cm from the floor. To connect pipes, a rotary elbow made of metal is used. Next, the withdrawal is performed using metal pipe with a diameter of 10-12 cm. The second rotary elbow is installed at the exit to the street. Possible connection with ventilation pipe garage.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the inspection pit in the garage prevents the formation of moisture. Materials for waterproofing can be:

• bitumen;
• polymer membranes;
• liquid rubber.

They differ in their characteristics and cost.

Bitumen materials are sold in rolls, which allows them to be used in the most inaccessible places. Before use, the roll must be lubricated with solvent. The cut sheets are laid overlapping. The most popular type is roofing felt.

Application polymer materials involves welding. The advantages include resistance to mechanical stress and unlimited service life. Liquid rubber applied to surfaces that have previously been specially moistened. After spraying, several hours must pass for the applied material to harden.

Penetrating waterproofing is often used. The working solution is prepared by combining special mixture with water. Then it is applied to the pre-moistened floor and walls of the inspection pit. Crystallization occurs, as a result of which the pores in the concrete become clogged.

Carrying out lighting

A prerequisite for comfort when using an inspection pit is the presence of lighting in it. According to the rules, it is unacceptable to use 220 V incandescent lamps when installing lighting in repair pits. Light sources with lamps having a voltage of no more than 36 V are acceptable, for which a step-down transformer must be used to power them. Lighting equipment must have reliable protection from moisture.

IN garage pit you can install:

• fluorescent lamps;
• rechargeable lamps.

A good solution would be to install fluorescent lamps in a waterproof housing that consume a small amount of electricity. The use of LEDs has high level security.

It is prohibited to install sockets and switches in the inspection pit.

To increase lighting efficiency, you can line the pit walls with reflective material, such as foil.

Pit cover

At the end of construction, the question arises - how to cover the hole in the garage. The cover covering the inspection hole serves as an additional layer of waterproofing. In its absence, evaporated moisture will constantly settle at the bottom of the body when the car is in the garage, sometimes for a long time.

The cover for the inspection pit in the garage is made of metal sheets or boards. Wood is an inexpensive and not heavy material. Replacing a faulty board will not be difficult. It is advisable to use boards made of hard wood. Before use, they should be soaked with antifungal drugs and an antiseptic. Install boards in metal corners, fixed at the top of the pit.

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