How to care for indoor violets. Indoor violet Saintpaulia: secrets of care and cultivation

Violets are very demanding and delicate flowers. The reason for their lack of flowering may mainly be due to improper care. Lack of light, frequent replanting, inaccurately selected container, irregular feeding and sharply fluctuating thermal conditions are harmful to the plant. If flower care is organized correctly and correctly, violets can reward you with beautiful flowers all year round.

History of the spread of violets

At the end of the nineteenth century, the governor of East Africa, Baron von Saint-Paul, introduced the world to a new species of purple flowers, which were named Saintpaulia in his honor. Saint-Paul sent the flower seeds to Germany and soon they appeared at the center of general interest in Europe. At the beginning of the 20th century, flowers became known and loved in America. In 1927, a society of violet admirers was established here, where botanists worked on developing the newest types and varieties of these wonderful flowers. Today, there are approximately 15,000 species of Saintpaulia recorded in the United States.

The plant belongs to the Gesneriaceae family. Saintpaulia violetflower is known as a houseplant. They are often called African or Uzambara violets. Nowadays there are about 1,500 species of violets, which are the result of crossing Saintpaulia violet and Saintpaulia erroneum. Violet today grows both at home and in gardens and alleys.

Types of violets and their habitat

Based on the type of glass, fringed and terry varieties are distinguished. The color of the flower surprises with its variability. They come in either one color or multi-colored, the colors can have a border, fancy openwork with combinations of color tones. The ampelous type of Saintpaulia is also known, which is distinguished by a curly stem and a small number of flower baskets.

There are three types of Saintpaulia based on size:

1. Large ones – about 40cm high;
2. Small – less than 20cm high;
3. Very small – less than 7cm high

The soil for violets should be pneumatic and retain moisture as much as possible. To feed, natural ingredients are added to the soil. minerals– perlite and vermiculite, also reacts positively to moss.

It is useful to add a little finely ground charcoal to the soil. Violet can also grow hydroponically. It is prohibited to add fertilizers during the resting phase.

Proper care - the importance of light and warmth

The required conditions are:

1. Providing the necessary light and thermal conditions;
2. Proper watering;
3. Right choice soil and pot.

When caring for Uzambara violets, be sure to carefully examine the plant every 2-3 days, which will help you quickly detect problems and remove them. Flowers must be periodically cleaned of dust, shoots removed, replanted in a timely manner, and normal heat and light conditions must be ensured. Violets do not tolerate strong lighting and therefore it is better to provide it with moderate light, covering it from the sun with a light curtain or paper. In order for the basket to be symmetrically formed, it is necessary to turn the plant 90 degrees several times every seven days.

Flowers do not tolerate sudden thermal fluctuations and drafts. In order to bloom, the optimal temperature for keeping them must be equal to or higher than eighteen degrees. Homemade violets in spring or summer season It is not recommended to take it out onto the terrace. For year-round flowering of Saintpaulia, it is best to use fluorescent lamps with a duration of fourteen to sixteen hours a day. At fifteen degrees, the procedures performed will not work and the flower’s vegetative progress will slow down.

Leaf shapes

Violet leaves have a variety of shapes and colors. They range from light green to dark green in color. The leaf configurations are heart-shaped or rounded. The size reaches up to eight centimeters in length. The leaves are fleecy and brittle.

Different varieties of Saintpaulia have different colored leaves. They come in plain light or dark green colors. Varieties with more complex colors with white spots on the stem are also known. There are also varieties with leaves with white edges. The violet leaf blade at the stems is heart-shaped, round, jagged or solid in shape.

Watering

main reason The death of Saintpaulia is the oversaturation of the soil with moisture, which leads to rotting of its roots. Therefore, you need to know how to water without causing harm. Water the violet with moderately warm water throughout the year. It is worth watering when the outer layer in the container is slightly dry, but on low layers the ground is still wet. Different watering methods:

• Into the bottom, after which excess water should be poured out;
• Lowering a pot with a flower into water;
• Watering from above, at an air temperature of 22 degrees, with the exception of spraying water on the leaves, since water makes them weightless and loses their decorative style.

If there is a lack of moisture, Saintpaulia leaves wither, become weak, and the substance moves away from the walls of the pot. The dried violet should be immersed in water at 22 degrees, holding for up to an hour. Then place it in a place protected from light, cover it with a light cloth and leave it for 24 hours. Damage is stressful for Saintpaulia and periodic lack of water and oversaturation of the soil with moisture will certainly affect flowering.

Caring for Saintpaulia in winter and containers for planting them

In winter, it is necessary to turn on the light for several hours in the dark half of the day in order to increase the duration of daylight hours.

It is necessary to water the flower less often in frosty weather, since water is difficult to obtain at this time, and stagnant moisture can cause rotting of its roots.

If the ground is noticeably flooded with water, you need to transplant the flower into clean, dry soil, covering it with a glass jar until fresh leaves appear. Fertilizing in winter should be done once, using organic fertilizers.

In winter, it is better to remove the violet from the windowsill. It is sensitive to sharp cold air currents. If you need to ventilate the room, the flower pot should be removed as far away as possible.

If the air is dry from heating, you need to fill the stand with expanded clay. Then cover with water and place a flower pot on it.

To grow violets you need to buy a set of 3-4 types of pots. Basically, clay or plastic pots with a diameter of five, seven, nine centimeters and with appropriate heights are used for this purpose. Small violets are planted in fairly small containers. After two to six months, they are planted in not very large pots. Saintpaulias with large inflorescences are planted in low, wide pots, and miniature ones are nurtured in 3-4 centimeter plastic or clay containers.

Decorative bush formation

Well-cared for violets tolerate transplantation well even when they are in bloom. In order for the buds to flutter normally, the violet inflorescence must consist of 3 rows. The lower leaves need to be plucked, because at the bottom they have a limp and ugly appearance. After the leaves of Saintpaulia break off, the stem opens. In an adult violet it is higher, which affects decorative look.

In this case, it is advised to replant the violet, deepen it and fill the trunk with substance. The issue can also be resolved by cutting off the basket of Saintpaulia leaves, after which a small stalk is formed under the lower leaves. This leg is lowered into water, and from the roots that appear on it, a new flower. You must remember to remove yellow, dead and damaged leaves.

Reproduction

Reproduction of this type of flower usually occurs by vegetative means. In the second row, petioles measuring from 2 cm to 4 cm are cut off. The petioles should not be too young or mature. Reproduction should be carried out correctly in the first two spring months. When replanting, you should cut off the upper zone of the main plant.

Video: Seating violet babies

Reproduction is carried out using several methods. The cuttings are immersed in water, and when roots appear, they are transplanted into the ground, after adding activated carbon to the water to eliminate harmful microspheres. The cuttings are planted immediately in the substance and covered with a bundle with holes for air penetration; the sprouts that appear are planted in another container. Reproduction is also carried out by transplanting newly formed cups.

The main problems when caring for violets

If you do not know in advance how to care for violets and do not follow the order and care regimen, you may encounter many problems. The plant will become sick and pests will appear (mealyworm and cyclomene mite). Painful symptoms can be noticed visually and procedures can be introduced to heal the flower. To do this, you need to regularly monitor the growth and condition of the violet.

One of the main problems is brown spots on the leaves that form when watering cold water when water splashes the foliage. Yellow spots indicate exposure to ultraviolet rays, and gradually yellowing leaves are a sign of improper watering or low air humidity. Rotting of the middle of the inflorescence means that there has been overflow and frequent thermal fluctuations. Elongated petioles are a sign that the plant is freezing.

Violet or terry Saintpaulia is a very capricious indoor plant. To ensure that your flower lives long enough long time, it is necessary to provide all the necessary conditions, as well as attentive and thorough care. In our article you can find out a lot of useful information on how to properly care for violets.

Varieties of indoor violets

There are several main varieties of indoor violets. These include:

• "Rosemary": star-shaped flowers, white-pink, dark green leaves slightly corrugated;
• 'Jan Caprice': variegated wavy leaves and lush white flowers;
• “Fire moths”: oval-shaped leaves, as well as bright pink or scarlet flowers;
• "Compass Rose": the flowers have fringed edges, a soft pink hue, and dark green wavy leaves;
• “Magic of Love”: large flowers in the shape of a star, purple, as well as oval leaves;
• "Your Majesty": wavy pink petals with curly edges, wavy large leaves;
• "Macho": large-flowered plant with bright purple flowers and carved leaves.

Rosemary

Jan Caprice

Fire Moths

Rose of Wind

The magic of love

Your Majesty

Macho

Basic rules for caring for violets

If you decide to have a houseplant such as terry Saintpaulia at home, then you must adhere to the basic rules and regulations for its maintenance. Next we will look at each of them in detail.

Transfer

As soon as you bring the violet home, it needs to be transplanted into a new spacious pot. First, prepare the following:

• a flower pot that matches the size of your Saintpaulia;
• nutrient soil;
• ripper;
• expanded clay;
• water.

A couple of hours before transplanting, thoroughly moisten the soil so that the plant’s roots are saturated with moisture. Carefully remove the violet from the pot, carefully inspect for any damage, and clean the roots from excess soil. Place a small layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the container (it is necessary as a kind of drainage), then add a little prepared nutrient soil. Plant a flower in new pot holding it with your hands. Then add soil to the required level, compact it and loosen it a little. Make sure the violet is firmly planted in the soil. Then water new ground and lightly loosen it again (so that oxygen gets to the roots of the plant).

Top dressing

The following fertilizers can be used to fertilize violets:

• Minerals: various phosphates that contribute to active growth plants (add this fertilizer best at the time of transplantation);
• Mineral complexes: available in the form of small sachets, they are an excellent preventative against various diseases of leaves and roots;
• Organic fertilizers: usually these are various kinds of humus or humus, which are laid out in the soil during transplantation.

The best and most widely used fertilizers are the following:

• “Fertika Kristalon for violets” - microfertilizer;
• "Bona forte mp" - fertilizer for violets and begonias;
• “Violet” is a substrate component;
• "Uniflor micro" - fertilizer for foliar feeding;
• "Bona forte" - organo mineral fertilizer;
• "Agricola Aqua" - organomineral fertilizer for indoor and balcony plants;
• "Slox-eco" - fertilizer for feeding.

Watering

You need to water the violet carefully, using a thin stream of water, which should not accumulate in the center of the flower rosette, but should be evenly distributed over the soil, reaching the roots themselves. For watering, it is best to use a small watering can with a long sharp spout or a large syringe. As soon as water begins to drip from the drainage holes, watering should be stopped. After about 15-20 minutes, the water should be removed from the pan.

Temperature

As mentioned above, violets are quite capricious plants, so average temperature indoor air should vary between 17 and 23 °C. Carefully monitor the temperature stability to avoid the death of the flower.

Lighting

Terry Saintpaulia does not tolerate direct solar radiation, but at the same time she desperately needs bright color. To do this, you should purchase a special fluorescent lamp, which you need to hang above the location of the flower. Such artificial light will help the plant to bloom even in winter time of the year.

Priming

The soil intended for violets must be of high quality and contain various fertilizers (you can add them yourself). You can use purchased soil, but again we hasten to remind you that it contains very little useful substances, so you will have to enter them there yourself. The ideal soil for violets should consist of:

• sand;
• peat;
• charcoal;
• humus;
• black soil

Hygiene procedures

As the violet leaves and flowers become dusty and dirty, they must be washed and sprayed with fresh water. You can do this as follows: take the Saintpaulia to the bathroom, take a damp cloth and thoroughly wipe each leaf. Then spray with water from a spray bottle, let it dry a little and put the pot in place.

Location

Appears quite rarely in winter bright sun, therefore, during this period, Saintpaulia can be placed on the window, and in the evening you can turn on a special lamp. But, in spring and summer, the violet must be removed from the windowsill and placed in a more secluded place, for example, on a chest of drawers, a coffee table or a nightstand.

Propagation of violets

There are 3 main types of violet propagation:

• using leaves in water and soil;
• peduncles and stepsons;
• seeds and using the selection method.

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Reproduction by leaves in water and soil

This method of propagating violets involves fixing the leaves in the soil or in water. The leaf is cut off and then lowered into the ground or water. Then you need to wait until the plant takes root. As soon as they become long enough, you can transplant the violet into a spacious pot.

Reproduction by peduncles and pinching

Plant the stepson or peduncle (small shoots of an adult plant) in pre-prepared mineralized soil. This technique guarantees that the violet offspring will have the same color and leaf shape as their parents.

Reproduction by seeds and using the selection method

This method involves pollinating the “mother” flower with the “dad” violet. Adult plants are placed next to each other, then you need to wait for the mother capsule to appear and dry completely. Collect the seeds and start germinating them.

violets of different varieties - bright and delicate flowers, can be grown at home

Possible diseases of violets

Springtails

Aphid

Infectious diseases

Let's look at the main infectious diseases that occur in violets.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is considered one of the most common infectious diseases in violets, which manifests itself in the form of crumbly pimples located over the entire surface of the leaves. Infection occurs due to fungal spores formed in the soil. Protect the violet from temperature changes and high humidity.

Gray rot

A disease such as gray rot manifests itself in violets in the form of wilting and dullness of the color of the leaves, as well as flying of the petals. Root rot is actively developing. The surface of the leaves is covered gray coating. This disease most often occurs due to improper care and content. In order to get rid of gray rot, it is necessary to constantly ventilate the room, temporarily stop watering the flower outlets, and remove excess water from the pan during the process.

Fusarium

Fusarium is a dangerous and insidious disease for violets. At first it hits root system, and then slowly spreads to the leaves and petals of the plant. A clear sign of this disease is excessive wilting of leaves and stems. Unfortunately, this disease cannot be cured; you can only apply preventive measures to healthy violets. Set up the correct watering regime, ventilate the room, protect Saintpaulia from sudden temperature changes.

Late blight

Late blight manifests itself in the form of violet leaves turning a bright brown shade. Infection occurs due to fungal spores that settle in the soil due to high humidity. The disease cannot be cured, but you can cut off the infected leaves and take preventive measures: water the plant on time, remove it from the tray excess moisture and also ventilate the room.

Our article discussed the basic rules for caring for indoor violets, as well as possible diseases this plant. If on time and with full responsibility approach the maintenance of Saintpaulia, then it will delight you with its bright, beautiful flowers for quite a long time.

Blooming violets on the windowsill are a delight for the eyes of lovers ornamental plants. Their incredible popularity has also been contributed to by their long or even continuous flowering. Every year new hybrids of indoor violets appear, replenishing the already wide varietal assortment.

Today's site theme is for progressives - violets (indoor flowers). Today we will look at photos and names, home care and ways to extend the flowering period in detail. By choosing the right variety for yourself and studying the agricultural technology of the plant, you can turn your windowsill into a fabulous place.

Indoor violets at home will give delightful beauty

Indoor violet (Saintpaulia) - brief description and varieties

The plant in question is a rosette of downy, fleshy leaves. A “bouquet” of delicate flowers forms in the center. Depending on the variety, they can have different colors, sizes and shapes.
There are many varieties of simple indoor violets and large double ones. The latter, of course, are more in demand among flower growers, but simple, uncomplicated flowers still decorate many houses and apartments. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the names and photographs of some popular hybrids of indoor violets.

Based on the shape of the flowers, Saintpaulias are divided into large groups, each of which has its own set of varieties. The table below shows the photos and names of all existing groups.

Names of indoor violet groups based on flower structure
In the photo, Tarabar violet Shining Stars - violet in the photo
The photo shows an indoor violet Pink Panther at home
Fire Moths
Violet EK Bullfight
In the photo there is a violet White Queen

In the photo there is a violet for home use. Winter is smiling
Pictured is Blue Flash

Rules for caring for indoor violets

If the initially created home conditions are suitable for the indoor violet, it will not manifest itself as capricious plant. The simplest care will help it bloom magnificently and for a long time. In unsuitable conditions, the flower will gradually fade and may eventually disappear completely.

Suitable home conditions for Saintpaulia:

Illumination is good and continuous (10 hours a day), but without direct midday rays.
The soil is moisture-permeable and drains excess moisture well.
Humidity is low (50%), the leaves are never wet.
Watering - best through a tray using warm water. In winter - twice a week, in summer - daily.
Drafts are unacceptable.
Temperature - 25 °C in winter and 20 °C in summer.

The ground for this indoor flower should be sour. The main component is leaf soil. Peat is added to it in a smaller volume. It precisely creates the acidic environment necessary for violet roots. The third component is coarse sand (volume - 1/8 of the soil-peat mixture). It is advisable to add sphagnum moss and charcoal.

As for fertilizing Saintpaulia, it is undoubtedly necessary. But in this case it is important to remember moderation. Indoor violet does not like oily soil. Typically, fertilizing is carried out two or three times a year:

In winter - with a solution of humate;
in spring and autumn - with specially designed mineral fertilizer.

When choosing a container for indoor violets, you do not need to focus on large flowerpots. It is considered a mistake to assume that the size of the rosette will be comparable to the dimensions of the pot. It is important to understand one important nuance- The violet will not bloom in full bloom until its roots fill the pot. You shouldn't expect violets to bloom all year round - it's quite normal if only leaves remain in winter. Although when ideal conditions there may not be a break.

Small flowerpots are suitable for growing indoor violets at home.

In view of this, it is better to choose a pot with a diameter of about 6 cm as the first container for Saintpaulia. After a few years, the bush can be transplanted into a larger container - about 10 cm in diameter. About half of the pot should be occupied by a drainage layer. If holes for water drainage are not provided, you should make them yourself. When transplanting indoor violets, you need to completely replace the substrate.

Common problems with growing violets

The center of the bush thickens, but the leaves do not change direction and color - this situation occurs due to excessive lighting (more than 14 hours a day). Shading the plant for several hours a day will help correct the situation.
Thickening, accompanied by drooping leaves and the appearance of a purple tint from them reverse side, also speaks of an excess of light. But in this case, most likely, direct rays fall on the bush, which the violet does not like. The solution to the problem is shading.
A white coating on small leaves indicates that the violet is deeply planted, as a result of which the young leaves are in the water. Over time, the flower usually rots. Planting higher and reducing watering will solve the problem.
Small and hard, brittle leaves are a sign of excess fertilizer. In this situation, only one thing will help: transplanting indoor violets into new soil.
Many stepsons are formed, and the main bush slows down in development - this is most often a consequence of overfeeding. Replanting into new soil and removing the stepsons is necessary.

Indoor violets (Saintpaulias) are, without a doubt, the most popular and favorite flowers of many gardeners and housewives. In many countries, violet blossoms mean the arrival of spring. Their inflorescences, although small, are delicate and graceful, reminiscent of our unity with nature. Indoor Saintpaulias do not take up much space on window sills, are not a source of allergies and are completely unpretentious. You just need a little love and knowledge of her preferences for these cute flowers to grow and continuously bloom in your home. We will share secrets about caring for violets at home. From this article you will learn how to properly water a flower using the wick and drip method, what soil to replant in, and even how to prepare the substrate yourself.

Violet is a heat-loving flower. Optimal temperature environment, comfortable for its cultivation, should be within 20 – 25 °C. If in the summer, during flowering, the temperature tends to 30 °C, the violet will suffer from overheating. Its flowers will become smaller, the color of leaves and flowers will fade, varietal characteristics, in the form of variegated foliage and a bright border - will disappear. Use all the temperature-reducing devices you have - air conditioning, split system, fan, or ventilate the room.

But violets do not like sudden changes in temperature, cold drafts and scorching rays of the sun. They should be protected from this. In winter, the air temperature should be about 20 °C. (strictly not lower than 16 °C).

Location of the Saintpaulia pot

It is better to place the flower pot on the windowsill near the east or west window. In the summer, window sills in the northern direction are also suitable, and in winter, on the contrary, violets will be more comfortable on the windowsill of a southern window. If you don't have windows European standard, in winter it is better to remove the flower from a cold windowsill. Place the pot on a shelf or table next to the window and use additional lighting. Or you can use a foam or wooden flower stand, 3 cm thick. Then the root system on the windowsill will not be overcooled. Otherwise, at low temperatures, violet flowering will stop.

Ambient humidity

Under natural conditions, violets grow in places with high humidity air. If the air in your home is dry, it must be humidified to 50–60% or higher. It is best to place the flower in a tray with damp expanded clay or pebbles. Make sure that the bottom of the pot is not in water - the roots of Saintpaulia should not come into contact with moisture. You can install a household humidifier near the windowsill.

Regular spraying of leaves is not suitable for violets. Its pubescent leaves trap water droplets on their surface, as a result of which it can develop. It is especially dangerous to spray violets at night, when the room becomes cooler and the water does not evaporate for a long time. In autumn-winter, wet towels placed on heating radiators will help increase the humidity in the room.

Solar and artificial lighting

Indoor violets love good, but diffused lighting. Direct rays of the sun are destructive for them; from them, the leaves of the plant get burned, get sick and fall off. But without enough sunlight, the violet will not bloom. For normal growth it needs good lighting for 10 - 14 hours a day. Note that Saintpaulias with dense, dark green foliage require more intense and prolonged lighting than those with light, curly leaves.

If necessary, arrange artificial lighting for flowers using a lamp daylight, phytolamps, or LED strips, violets grow beautifully under such light.

Lighting a plant from one side can distort the shape of the flower rosette - because the leaves are drawn to the light. Therefore, periodically rotate the flower pot around its axis. Then the bushes will be compact, symmetrical, with lush greenery and lush flowering.

Night darkness is also important for violet growth, otherwise its leaves become faded and it refuses to bloom.

Methods of watering violets

Always approach watering responsibly. Be sure to follow the golden mean, avoiding either excessive drying or waterlogging of the substrate, since deviations in one direction or the other will equally adversely affect the health of the plant. Watering violets should be done with standing water. tap water room temperature. Also suitable boiled water, since during boiling most of the harmful salts decompose and precipitate.

Once a month, you can acidify the irrigation water with acetic acid (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water) or citric acid (5 crystals per 1 liter of water).

We remind you that the temperature of the water used is no less important than its quality. Too cold or hot water will harm the root system of the flower.

For indoor violets, we do not recommend using the traditional method of watering - into an outlet. Water should not get on the leaves and the growing point, so as not to provoke fungal disease flower. In addition, leaves through the window glass can get damaged from wet spots. sunburn even in winter. It will be better if you water the violets in other ways. Here are some of the most commonly used methods of watering Saintpaulias.

Watering through a tray

Pour water at room temperature that has been standing for 24 hours into a tray or other container to a depth of a quarter of the height of the pot. Place the violet pot in water for about half an hour so that the soil is saturated with moisture. You will see that the required moisture level has been reached when the ground darkens. If you combine watering with fertilizing, the flower will receive the necessary nutrition in addition to moisture.

If you have a wide tray and you place several violets in it at the same time for watering, it is important to ensure that all the plants are healthy, otherwise the disease of one will spread to the others.

Take water quality seriously. If you water your violets with unsettled tap water, then the numerous impurities in it will each time rise to the top of the substrate during bottom watering and remain there. The soil will very soon become unusable due to salinity. The root system will stop absorbing beneficial microelements. You will see this by the white coating on the surface of the soil and the sickly appearance of the plant. Violation of the quality of the water used will result in a disadvantage of watering through the pan.

Drip irrigation

For drip irrigation use a watering can with a narrow spout or a large syringe bulb so that you can easily get to the soil, bypassing the rosette of violet leaves. The growth point should also not be filled. If you don’t have a watering can or a syringe, you can take a regular plastic bottle and make a hole in its lid into which to insert a straw. Water the soil drop by drop until excess water flows out of the drainage holes into the pan. Then stop watering, and after 15 minutes. drain excess water from the pan.

If you accidentally spill water on the leaves, nothing bad will happen, just blot the moisture with a dry cloth.

Immersion method

On especially hot days, during the next watering, a pot with a flower can be immersed in a basin of settled water at room temperature for about an hour. The plant will be saturated with moisture, take a break from the heat, and its root system will cool down. After this, let the excess water drain and return the plant to its original place.

Wick watering of violets

As a wick, use a string or a narrow strip of cotton fabric, which should be passed at one end into the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. The other end of the wick is lowered into a container of water for irrigation. The flower pot is placed on this container, and moisture rises inside the wick due to the capillary effect. The essence of wick watering is that the violet will take as much water as it needs. The level of moisture in the ground remains stable and is regulated by the violet itself depending on the ambient temperature. Below is a detailed video about wick watering, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with it.

Wick watering is not suitable for all violets, because it has several disadvantages:

• This method can only water plants in the warm season, because in winter the water cools quickly, especially if the container with water and the pot are on a cold windowsill. Violets do not like their roots to be in the cold. A supercooled root system is susceptible to disease and may die.
• For uniform watering, only small pots, 7x7 in size and no larger, are suitable. Uneven soil moisture will lead to the growth of green mass to the detriment of flower blooming.

What soil is suitable for Saintpaulias?

Violets like soil that is loose, light, and breathable, so that the root system does not suffer from a lack of oxygen. It is also important that the soil is moisture-absorbing and retains moisture well. And yet, when choosing land for violets, you should take into account the acidity level. These plants thrive in slightly acidic soils, with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. If there is a strong deviation in acidity in one direction or another, the flower ceases to normally absorb mineral and organic substances from the soil, and nitrogen-phosphorus starvation may occur. The growth of the plant will slow down, the bud will fall off without even opening. If the substrate is too acidic, the young leaves will curl, and in an alkaline environment, they will lose their bright color, turn pale, and their tips will turn brown.

Of the chemical elements in the soil for violets, nitrogen and phosphorus compounds, potassium salts and macro- and microelements should be present: iron, boron, calcium, chlorine, sulfur, zinc, molybdenum and others.

In small pots, which violets love so much, the soil is quickly depleted - do not forget to fertilize it and promptly replant the plants in new pots. It is best to use ready-made soil for Saintpaulias or indoor Violets, which it is advisable to purchase in specialized stores. Unfortunately, purchased soil often suffers from poor quality. Florist specialists add to ready-made soils perlite, vermiculite and coconut fiber as leavening agents. But a little bit of everything, so as not to cause root rot.

How to prepare your own substrate for violets

If you are a DIY enthusiast soil mixtures, we will tell you the proportions suitable for violets:

• high-moor peat - 1 part;
• coniferous land - 1 part (prepared for coniferous species trees after removing the top layer of needles);
• leaf soil - 3 parts (harvested under deciduous trees and shrubs);
• turf soil - 2 parts (harvested in areas where perennial grasses grow);
• large river sand or perlite - 1 part.

For drainage, use expanded clay with pieces of charcoal of different fractions, which will regulate soil moisture and adsorb harmful impurities.

All components should be disinfected - steamed or frozen.

How to test soil for acidity

Soil acidity is not a constant value; it changes over time. Any change in the appearance of the plant, the shape and color of its leaves, slower growth and lack of flowering should alert you and prompt you to check the acidity.

The acidity of the substrate is checked using a special device. If you don’t have one, try to determine the acidity of your soil using traditional methods. We'll show you how to do this.

1. Take two small containers, glass or ceramic, it doesn’t matter. Place the same small amount of soil in them, slightly damp.
2. Add vinegar to the first container. If the environment is alkaline, the earth will hiss.
3. In the second container, fill the soil with soda. If the environment is acidic, gas bubbles will begin to form.
4. If there is no reaction, your soil is neutral.

You can reduce acidity at home using dolomite flour, and increase it with the help of peat.

Pot size and material

It should be remembered that the flower does not like large pots. Conventionally, all violets can be divided into large, medium and miniature types. All have a superficial root system and do not require large volumes of soil. In nature, Saintpaulias grow quietly even on rocky soils. Therefore, even for a large adult plant, a pot with a diameter of no more than 12 cm is sufficient. Make your choice based on the information presented in the table.

For young violets, pots with a diameter of no more than 5 cm are suitable, preferably plastic ones, as they are light, cheap and durable. One bad thing is that they do not allow air to pass through. Therefore, we advise you to add good drainage holes in the bottom of the pot to holes in the lower part of its side walls so that the root system of the plant can breathe, be ventilated freely, and the soil will not turn sour.

If you only had a large pot and you planted your small violet in it, it will not bloom. And there are several reasons for this:

1. In a large pot, the flower will begin to grow primarily the green mass of leaves to the detriment of flowering.
2. Until the root system of the flower entwines the entire volume of substrate offered to it, the violet will not bloom. It will take a year or two before you see the first bloom.
3. Excess soil that is not entwined with roots does not dry out for a long time and can turn sour. There will be a danger of a fungal infection and the appearance of insect pests, which you may simply not detect in time in the huge mass of leaves, and you may lose the flower.

Available for sale plastic pots with special plastic pallets, which have a ribbed surface, allowing the container to be in a raised position above the pallet. This also helps the root system breathe air.

Ceramic pots glazed ones are very beautiful, but they have the same drawback as the plastic ones - they don’t breathe. In addition, they are expensive and heavy. If you still like ceramics, we advise you to opt for unglazed ceramic pots. They are less aesthetically pleasing, heavy and short-lived, but they allow air to pass through the walls, and violets feel great in them. And you can eliminate the aesthetic defect if you buy a flower pot or beautiful pot a slightly larger size, in which you can hide the ugly clay one.

Fertilizers and fertilizers for violets

Young violets need fertilizing with a predominance of nitrogen so that the green mass grows faster and the leaf rosette is well formed. Saintpaulias that are ready to bloom should be fed with fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium. In addition, flowers also need vitamins and other microelements for healthy growth and abundant flowering. Therefore, we recommend purchasing liquid complex fertilizers with a wide range of components for decorative flowering indoor plants.

Fertilizers should be used no more than twice a month. Combine fertilizing with watering through a tray. Do not use fertilizers in larger doses than indicated in the instructions - it is better not to feed more than to overdo it and ruin the tender roots of the violet. Fertilizing should not be neglected. You will immediately notice a lack of nutrients by the appearance of the flower - its growth will slow down, the leaves and stems will lose their elasticity, there will be no flowering, or it will be weak.

After planting or transplanting, nutrients from fresh soil disappear within two months, and after this period you need to restore the nutritional value of the substrate with the help of fertilizers and fertilizing.

Violets are not particularly demanding certain types feeding. If there are no special fertilizers for Saintpaulias, they can be fed with complex fertilizers for vegetables, which include nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iron, cobalt, magnesium, copper, molybdenum and boron. Their role in the life of the plant is to ensure the synthesis of enzymes that make it possible to effectively use the energy of the sun, water and nutrients contained in the soil. Vitamins and amino acids stimulate plant roots to maximally absorb micro- and macroelements from water and soil.

To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, root and stem rot, we recommend occasionally (once a month) watering violets with Fitosporin solution. This drug can be purchased at garden or flower shops in the form of powder or briquettes in the form of plasticine. How to breed them is indicated on the packaging. The diluted drug has a long shelf life; just a few drops should be added to the water for irrigation. One package is usually enough for the whole season.

Transplanting violets at home

Indoor Saintpaulias grow and bloom best in small pots. Experienced flower growers They know that the optimal size of a container for a violet should not exceed a third of its rosette. The supply of soil in them is not large, therefore, as the rosette grows, it is advisable to first transplant the flower into a slightly larger pot. Adult specimens do not need to increase the size of the pot; the same pot is quite suitable for them if you remove a third of the soil from under the roots and replace it with a fresh nutrient substrate.

The following facts indicate the need for a transplant:

• plant growth has clearly slowed down;
• a white salt coating appeared on the surface of the substrate;
• the lower part of the violet stem is very exposed, it clearly needs to be deepened;
• the root system of the flower filled the entire space in the pot.

Blooming violets are transplanted only into in case of emergency when there is no time for flowering, just to save the flower. A healthy plant You should not replant during flowering - wait until it ends. Also, this should not be done in winter, wait until spring. But the rest of the time, the violet can be replanted without fear of harming the plant in any way.

Replanting is done in different ways: by transshipment and with complete or partial replacement of the soil.

Transplantation by transshipment method

Since the root system of violets is poorly developed, sometimes the roots from old land are not released so as not to damage them. Then they use the most gentle method of transplanting plants - transferring them to another pot. In this case, a new pot is selected a little larger than the previous one. A layer of drainage and a layer of new soil are placed at the bottom. Now they place earthen lump with violet roots in the center, and cover it on the sides with new substrate. Then they water the flower and put it in a permanent place.

Replanting with soil replacement, step by step

If the reason for the transplant lies in the painful condition of the flower, for example, there is a suspicion of rotting roots, the violet urgently needs to be transplanted into another pot using the method complete replacement old land to new. Replanting with complete soil replacement is also used for adult plants. The advantage of this method is that by freeing the root system from the soil, you inspect its roots and remove diseased and damaged ones. You also delete lower leaves rosettes and old peduncles. We will tell you how to do this in order:

1. first moisten the substrate in an old pot with violets to make it easier to remove it from there;
2. Prepare a pot of suitable size. If you use an old one, clean it well from salt deposits on the walls and disinfect it;
3. on the bottom place a layer of expanded clay or other drainage material, also pre-treated with manganese or boiling water;
4. Place a layer of new substrate on the drainage with a slide in the center of the pot;
5. free the root system from the old substrate and carefully inspect it;
6. remove rotten and damaged roots, powder the wounds with crushed activated carbon; in case of serious damage, treat healthy roots with a fungicide against root rot;
7. place the violet root system in the new pot in the center and fill it with new substrate up to the lower leaves, shaking the pot slightly so that the soil fills all the voids inside;
8. leave the treated and replanted plant in partial shade for a day. During this time, the violet will get used to its new place of residence a little, and its wounds will heal. Now the flower can be watered with the addition of some fungicide against root rot. If necessary, if the stem becomes bare, add a little more soil.

Replanting with partial replacement of the soil is carried out mainly for young violets. It is assumed that they need to be transplanted into a slightly larger pot. And in this case, replanting occurs using a method similar to the previous method, only the soil that is crumbled is shaken off. Everything that was retained, along with the root system, is placed in a new pot and covered with fresh substrate.

Pruning violets

Sometimes, trimming violet leaves is not only possible, but also necessary. Let's start with the fact that the rosette of an indoor violet should look nice, proportional and consist of approximately three rows of leaves. The center of growth and development of Saintpaulia should not be overgrown with foliage.

If this happens to you, then simply remove the lower leaves, which have already begun to turn yellow and do not seem quite alive. Correctly plucking violet leaves from the stem is not difficult, just press with your fingernail at the base, and then use a twisting motion to completely remove the unnecessary leaf. If there are several such leaves, and as a result of such actions the flower’s trunk is exposed, then you can add fresh soil on top of the soil or transplant the flower deeper into new nutritious soil.

Do the same for pruning violets in the following cases:

• to remove excess leaves to stimulate lush flowering;
• to remove the top of an old violet for its rejuvenation - on the remaining stump through certain time babies will appear that you use to reproduce your specimen;
• to remove diseased leaves so that the disease does not spread to healthy ones.

What to do with violets after flowering

During flowering, faded peduncles should be regularly removed from the plant so that they do not interfere with the blossoming of new buds and do not spoil appearance blooming violet. When the last flower fades, let the plant rest. Trim damaged, diseased or shriveled leaves. Take care of restoring the vitality of a well-worked violet - tear off the lower rows of leaves at the rosette, transplant it into a new pot with a nutrient mixture. If you do not have this event planned, start feeding the flower again with fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen components so that the violet begins to grow new leaves to replace the ones you torn off.

How to care for violets in winter

In winter, the main procedures for caring for violets are:

• Good flower lighting with fluorescent lamps or fluorescent lamps up to 12 - 14 hours a day, alternating with dark time days until 8 o'clock.
• Maintaining the ambient air temperature in the room at least 20 °C, without sharp fluctuations in one direction or another, without drafts during ventilation.
• Regular moderate watering warm water up to three times a week.
• Increased air humidity in the room where your Saintpaulia lives. All methods of increasing humidity are welcome - Appliances, containers with water, trays with wet expanded clay, wet towels on all radiators and other tricks that you can come up with.
• On cold windowsills under pots of violets there should be thick, at least 3 cm thick, plastic or wooden coasters, protecting the roots of the flower from hypothermia.
• Violet leaves should not touch cold glass windows, keep an eye on this.

Conclusion

We are sure that you will have a lot of fun caring for these cute plants. Grateful violets will delight you with magnificent blooms several times a year. If your window sills are filled with pots of different varieties of violets, then your home will be filled with a powerful positive aura. After all, the subtle aroma of flowers stabilizes heart rhythms and has a beneficial effect on the mental state of not only the owner of this splendor, but also on all members of his family. If you have mastered the rules of caring for this beautiful flower, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with .

When purchasing a long-awaited plant, we always look forward to the first flowers. But then a month passes, two months later, and the violet does not please with abundant flowering, let’s try to figure it out and understand how to care for violets.

For the growth and development of each plant, certain conditions are required. For violets, light is of paramount importance. In rooms with insufficient lighting, violets may die.

If the apartment has enough windows, then you need to choose one where the light is soft and diffused. South windows should be used with caution, as direct sunlight is contraindicated for violets. In this case, the windows can be covered with short curtains or sheets of white paper.

How to choose a pot?

Indoor violets are small, compact plants, and even varieties with abundant foliage have a small root system, so the plant requires a small container. Saintpaulias do not grow and develop well in large pots. Optimal size a container for young plants should be 5-6 cm. For an adult violet, a flowerpot of 10-12 cm will be enough.

Correct soil

A mixture of soil for violets is available in every specialty store, but it is not always of high quality.

Since these plants require an acidic substrate, the following components must be present in the composition:

• Leaf soil -5 parts;
• Peat-3 parts;
• Sphagnum, charcoal -10% of the total mass;
• Coarse river sand - 1 part

Caring for violets at home

Caring for indoor violets is not difficult; you just need to follow certain maintenance conditions and properly care for the plant.

Illumination and temperature conditions

The violet is placed in a well-lit place where direct sunlight does not reach. It should be noted that violets with dense, dark green foliage need more light than plants with light, wavy leaves. It is also not advisable for the plants to touch window glass. If the daylight hours are short and less than 15-16 hours, then the flowers are provided with artificial lighting using a fluorescent lamp.

In summer, a comfortable temperature for violets should be about 20-24 °C, in the autumn and winter months about 18°C.

Watering and feeding violets

The plant is watered as the soil dries with settled water at room temperature.

Several watering methods are acceptable for violets:

• Water is poured into the pan;
• The container with the flower is immersed in water for one hour;
• If the house is too hot, you can water more than +25 °C from above, but so that the water does not get on the leaves.

Violets do not like spraying, but need moist air. To do this, place a saucer with wet expanded clay or sand next to the plant.

Violets are fed several times throughout the year. In spring and autumn, mineral fertilizer is applied twice, in winter organic matter is used once. IN summer period If the plant is in good condition, there is no need to feed it; in other cases, use complex fertilizer for violets, which is available in every gardening store. To avoid burns, you need to dilute fertilizers in more water than indicated on the package, and fertilize only on moist soil.

Propagation of violets

The most favorable time for breeding Saintpaulias is spring and summer. Healthy leaves of the second row from an adult plant are suitable for this. They are cut off with a sharp, clean scalpel. Cuttings can be placed in a container with warm water with the addition of coal or a biostimulant or planted in cups with prepared substrate. For this purpose, take small plastic pots or ordinary cups with drainage holes. Fine expanded clay is poured onto the bottom, then earth with the addition of perlite (3:1), which will ensure better breathability. Deepen the cutting by 1.5 - 2 cm. After the leaf is planted, water the soil with warm water and cover the container with a plastic bag with holes, this will help faster rooting and adaptation.

How to seat the children?

As soon as small rosettes about 3-5 cm in size appear at the base of the leaf, the plants can be replanted. The children are separated so that at least one pair of leaves with a developed growth point and a root system remain.

To minimally injure the plants you need to:

• Moisten the soil well;
• Remove the plant along with a clod of earth;
• Gradually remove soil from the roots.

Containers measuring 4 cm in diameter are prepared for children. The substrate should be light, with the obligatory addition of vermiculite and sphagnum. The plant is transplanted into a depression in the center of the pot. In this case, the growth point should not be buried. In about 30 calendar days The children will grow up, and the size of the rosette will exceed the diameter of the pot three times. Next, I replant the plants together with a lump of earth, which is placed in the center of the container, and soil is added to the sides.

Reasons why violets don't bloom

Violets may not bloom due to improper care, unsuitable living conditions, due to disease or attack by pests. Let's look at all the cases in more detail.

Light. Lack of light is a common reason for the lack of flowering in violets. Flowers placed incorrectly in an apartment suffer from lack of light. This is easy to find out if you look at the foliage of the plant; it always stretches upward. But the sun is also contraindicated for violets, otherwise burns will appear on the foliage.

For abundant flowering, these indoor plants need 12 hours of continuous light every day.

Fertilizers. When feeding plants, you cannot use predominantly nitrogen compounds, as this promotes the active growth of the green part, and the formation of flowers will be delayed. If there is excess potassium in the fertilizer, the violet may stop growing and turn yellow.

Water. There may be no flowers on the plant due to improper watering. Do not allow the soil to dry out completely, become waterlogged, or use hard, cold water.

Air humidity. In ordinary city apartments, especially during the heating season, air humidity is only 20-30%, while violets need 50% for normal development. Therefore, it is worth placing a saucer with wet expanded clay next to the flower.

Priming. Regular garden soil will not work. It is important that it is light and well breathable. But over time the most good soil can cake, so once a year or a year and a half the plant needs to be replanted.

Capacity. Flowers may not appear at all if the violet is planted in a large flowerpot.

Age. If the plant is more than three years old, then most likely it will not bloom. Violets bloom on young rosettes aged 1-3 years. They renew the violet in winter by planting daughter rosettes; by spring it will adapt and bloom.

Plant diseases and pests

Diseases:

• Powdery mildew. The infection appears when there is insufficient light, air temperature less than +18 degrees, or a dusty room. Looks like powdery mildew, How white coating on the stems of the plant. The violet stems are wiped with a slightly damp cloth, the room is ventilated, and the preparation “benlat” is used.
• Gray rot. It occurs due to temperature changes and frequent watering with cold water. It looks like a gray, fluffy coating on the petioles and leaves of violets. For treatment, “thiram”, “phytosparin”, “agate” and other fungicides are used.
• Fusarium. This fungus leads to rotting of the root system; it occurs due to improper care (frequent watering, cold water). The plant does not bloom, the foliage turns gray and falls off. For treatment and prevention, a solution of benomyl and fundozol is used.

Insects are pests often found on violets

In order for the violet to please with good and long flowering it is necessary to comply with the conditions of maintenance, properly care for it and check the plant from time to time for the presence of pests.

Return