The bathroom, by definition, is a temple of cleanliness and freshness. But this is not always the case if there is poor ventilation or no ventilation at all. Then, from a temple of cleanliness, the room turns into a breeding ground for mold, fungi and insects, which feel comfortable in a humid atmosphere and dampness, and this poses a potential threat to the inhabitants of the apartment. In this article we will tell you how to connect a fan in the bathroom with your own hands, providing possible connection diagrams, as well as installation tips.
Checking natural ventilation
The first thing you need to do is find a choke - a ventilation shaft and examine it for the absence of obstructions to the outflow of air. Also before connecting household fan, it is recommended to clean the ventilation, remove cobwebs, debris and dust accumulated there.
Using a lit candle, we check the presence of air flow; the flame should deviate towards the shaft when it is brought to the ventilation hole. To find out whether there is sufficient ventilation without special devices, you can attach a sheet of paper to the air vent and release it. If it continues to hang, there is air flow. Has fallen, which means the flow is very weak or absent. The verification method is shown in the photo below:
If not natural ventilation you must contact a special service or housing office. If there is, but it is not enough, it makes sense to install an additional fan in the air duct. Today, the market offers a huge assortment of all kinds of fans for every taste and color, differing in principle and appearance. For domestic operating conditions, an axial cooler is most often installed.
Having decided on the size and manufacturer, we will begin installing the fan ourselves. We immediately draw your attention to the fact that this instruction Suitable for installation in the bathroom and toilet, as well as for the kitchen, where a small cooler is often used instead of a hood.
Selecting a connection diagram
First of all, it is necessary to supply power to the future unit. It is best to do this at the repair stage by hiding the cable in the wall. Otherwise, the conductor will have to be hidden in decorative box, and then connect it to the outlet via a plug.
There are several schemes for connecting a bathroom fan to a 220 volt network:
- parallel to the lighting;
- separate switch;
- via a timer or sensor.
From a light bulb
Most a budget option- this is the connection to the lamp. In this case, the cooler turns on simultaneously with the light, and works as long as the light is on.
A huge advantage of this connection scheme is its ease of implementation and relative cheapness, but there is a drawback, this is the operation of the fan when it is not required, during water procedures a draft is created, insufficient time for ventilation of the room, as a result of which it is necessary to leave the lighting on for additional time. In addition, this mode of operation reduces the service life of the engine, since starting the engine is accompanied by wear and tear on the electrical and mechanical parts. And frequent switching on and off reduces it.
From the switch
To eliminate the futile operation of the hood, you need to connect the fan through a separate switch, which can be located either on the hood grill itself or as a separate button on the wall. This fan connection option is more expensive than the previous one, since the cable length increases and the circuit becomes more complex. In addition, the connection does not need to be made from the lamp; it is enough to make the same circuit as for lighting, only instead of a light bulb there will be a hood.
Connecting the fan with a separate line via two-gang switch better from the operational side, because The hood motor only works when needed, while the bathroom light can be turned off and the hood operating time can be independently adjusted. Disadvantage - there is a possibility of forgetting about the cooler and it will work for an unreasonably long time.
Through automation
IN Lately In the struggle for buyers, manufacturers began to equip their devices with automation elements - timers and humidity sensors. Very good decision, it seems to us, a hood with a timer. The installation diagram is comparable in complexity to the diagram for connecting a fan via a switch.
You need to connect the device through three wires, two 220 volt power supply, and the third signal wire, from the lighting lamp. The operating algorithm boils down to turning on together with the lighting, and turning off after a specified time (3-30 minutes) after turning off the light. This time should be enough for flowing ventilation of the bathroom.
There are also models with reverse mode on the market. The motor will not turn on while the light is on, and starts working after the light is turned off, for the time set by the timer.
We carry out installation
Manufacturers have taken care of the ease of connecting and installing the fan in the bathroom. Removing the front grille reveals fastening and switching elements. You can connect the fan to a 220 V network via a terminal block. When connecting, be sure to follow the instructions. Zero is always blue, and phase is usually white, red or black.
As you can see, connecting the wires is quite simple and it’s difficult to confuse anything. You can install a fan in a bathroom or toilet either using dowels, which are included in the kit, or using construction sealant or glue, if it is not possible to drill holes in the ceramic tiles.
You can learn more about how to install a fan in the bathroom with your own hands by watching the videos we provided below:
Installation on a tile wall
Fastening the housing to suspended ceiling rack type
We hope you liked our article and you learned everything you need to connect a fan in the bathroom with your own hands!
To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are necessary: fresh air flow through living rooms and its outflow from technical ones. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to do it correctly.
According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say forced. The natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of wind, temperature differences and resulting pressure differences. When using mechanical ventilation, air movement is caused by fans.
From the point of view of a city person, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas In winter, power outages are rather the norm. That’s probably why they mainly strive to make systems non-volatile or, at least, redundant.
But natural ventilation in the toilet and bathroom should be too large. After all, the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the larger the cross-section of the air duct is needed to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one will argue that when the fan is on, the air moves faster. This is even reflected in SNiP: the speed limit for ventilation systems with natural circulation is up to 1 m 3 / h, for mechanical ones - from 3 to 5 m 3 / h. Therefore, for the same room and conditions, the channel sizes will be different. For example, to transmit a flow of 300 m3/h you will need:
Therefore, few people today make do with natural ventilation. Unless in small houses(up to 100 sq. m.). Even in apartments with ducts leading to the roof, ventilation of bathrooms and toilets is done using fans.
Organization rules
When installing an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its flow into the technical rooms. From there it goes through the ventilation ducts.
Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of its supply. We install airtight windows, and insulate the walls through which air flows at least a little with airtight materials. Third source - entrance doors- today, too, almost everyone has iron ones, with rubber seal. In fact, the only way left is ventilation. But we don’t abuse it at all: it blows out the heat. As a result, the problem of dampness is added to the problems of lack of oxygen in the room: there is no inflow, and the outflow is ineffective. Even forced.
If you want the ventilation to be normal and the walls in the rooms not to get wet, make ventilation holes. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that are mounted anywhere on the wall. They are available with adjustable dampers, of different shapes and sizes, and are covered with bars on the outside. It is best to install under windows, above or behind radiators. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.
Having ensured the inflow, it is necessary to ensure that it enters the technical premises through the doors. Therefore, there should be gaps under all doors: air will flow through them to other rooms. It is advisable to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom doors and/or also make a gap at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical rooms: kitchen and toilet. Only when there is movement of air masses will ventilation work.
The doors of technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet - must have ventilation grilles or valves. There are even valves with sound absorption, and the smell when proper organization will never enter other premises
Calculation of fan performance for bathrooms and toilets
To decide which fan to install on the bathtub with toilet, you need to calculate the required air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing a fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to get involved in calculations, its performance can only be taken according to average numbers.
Air exchange rate for different rooms. With their help, ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is calculated
As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP), for a bathroom at least 25 m 3 / h should be “pumped” per hour, for a toilet or a combined bathroom the speed should be twice as high - 50 m 3 / h. These are the minimum values. In reality, through three (or two) technical rooms - kitchen, toilet, bathroom - as much air should leave as it enters through the supply ventilation.
The air intake is calculated based on the volume of all residential premises and usually exceeds it by 1.5-2 times and the minimum values indicated in the table are not enough to ensure the required air exchange. Therefore, the performance of fans is taken with at least a double reserve, and for kitchens even more: this way there will be no unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, when going for a bathroom fan with a capacity less than 100 m 3 /h, it is better not to buy it.
Choice
First of all, you need to decide where you will install the fan: in a duct or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: channel or wall. In wall-mounted versions there can also be two types: for installation at the entrance of the ventilation duct - they create more pressure, and for ductless installation - exit directly through the wall to the street. For ductless installations, axial type fans are usually used - they cannot create a pressure of more than 50 Pa, and for this reason they are not installed in ducts.
In addition to the performance that you calculated, another important characteristic is the noise level. The smaller it is, the better. It’s good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.
Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use indoors high humidity a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).
Connecting a bathroom fan
For the fan to operate, a power supply is required, and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:
- Connect in parallel with turning on the lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan automatically starts. But it also turns off automatically when the light is turned off. This situation is normal for a toilet, but not always for a bathroom. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms, you can use a different method of connecting the fan or set a shutdown delay (a special device on which you can set a time interval after which the power will turn off).
- Display it on a separate switch key or install a separate toggle switch/button.
- Set a timer that will automatically supply power according to a schedule.
The electrical part is the most difficult. You will have to punch a groove in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, lead it to the installation location of the switch and connect it there, depending on the chosen method.
Checking the ventilation duct
Installing a fan in the bathroom with your own hands begins after checking the condition of the duct. To do this, remove the grille, if it is not already dismantled, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the hole. If the flame or leaf is steadily pulled towards the channel, the draft is normal. If it either stretches or bends back, the traction is unstable. In this case, if you live in an apartment building, odors from neighbors above or below may reach you. Then there may be a smell in the toilet from the ventilation. It is necessary to stabilize the traction.
If the flame or leaf hardly deviates, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as an unpleasant odor, are guaranteed throughout the entire apartment, and in the bathroom, this is a must.
In case of abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the channels themselves or call maintenance services. In private houses, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, you may have brought it out without taking into account the wind rose and the draft periodically overturns. You can solve the problem by moving the exit, but this is not easy. To begin with, you can try installing a deflector (if you don’t have one) or slightly increasing/decreasing the height.
Features of forced ventilation in the bathroom
When installing a fan while it is running, the amount of air exhausted increases significantly. But due to the fact that the housing blocks part of the channel cross-section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow decreases three times. As a result, overall performance ventilation system falls.
To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with an air intake grille located below and thus increase the performance to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the housing and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the gap and ventilation will be normal in any case. See the video for more details.
Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to installation. Fan sizes may vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:
- You need to make a hole on the tile for the housing. The easiest way is to put a fan and outline it. Then use a special attachment on a drill or grinder to cut a hole of the appropriate size.
- Remove the front panel from the fan. It is secured with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed and the grille was removed. The holes for the fasteners are now visible. We insert the fan in this form into place (into the duct), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the places where the bolts will be.
- Using a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall to match the size of the dowel.
- We make a cut in the tile where we will pass the power supply wire.
- Insert the dowels.
- We pull it through a special hole on the fan housing electric wires(if there is no hole, it is drilled).
- Place it in place and tighten the bolts.
- We connect the wires.
- We check the functionality and install the grille.
- For wooden toilets all this is only partly true. Read about
Ventilation in a bathroom in a private house
Here the main difficulties may arise when constructing exhaust ducts. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then brought out onto the roof. It's more difficult in terms of internal wiring- you will have to pull the air ducts to to the right place, and also more expensive during construction. But appearance it turns out solid.
Another way to install ventilation ducts: lead it through the wall, and then along external wall lift up. According to the rules, for normal draft with natural ventilation, they must rise 50 cm above the ridge. But you will have one common air duct or a separate one for each room - it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.
There is another option: make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from the fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options shown in the photo is suitable.
In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made directly at the top of the wall (for air exchange to be effective, it should be located opposite the door, diagonally, at the top). With this device, a regular wall fan is used. The same figure shows how you can reduce the number of required channels. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are located next to each other, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grille. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.
In the second option (pictured on the right) an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, but there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the roof overhang (it is short in the photo, but there are also long ones), then the wood will turn black after some time. If you conclude this from the toilet, this may not happen, but in the case of the bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt in a couple of years. In this case, you can “reach out” the air duct to the edge of the roof or bring it up through the knee (but raise it 50 cm above the roof).
The main thing is to prepare well and see how to install a fan in the bathroom with your own hands, because there are a number of features that you cannot do without. It is important to understand that everything depends on the type of device.
There are wall air ducts in the toilet and bathroom. They carry out supply and exhaust ventilation in a natural (passive) way. It is not sufficient to quickly ventilate these rooms. Ventilation efficiency is increased by properly installed exhaust fan. There are two types of such devices: axial and channel. The first ones are installed on the hood opening, the second ones are installed inside the air duct.
Before installing the device with your own hands, you need to make sure that there is air movement in the channel: bring a match or a sheet of paper to its hole.
Connection diagrams
There are four connection schemes exhaust device in the bathroom or toilet. Before you install it yourself, you need to follow several safety precautions. It is necessary to turn off the corresponding switch of the electrical panel: there should be no voltage in the wiring that will be worked with. All circuits are suitable for three or two wire wiring. In the latter case, the grounding wire is removed from the circuit, and installation is done without it.
The first type of hood connection in the bathroom and toilet, when it is turned on at the same time lighting fixture. The “zero” is directly connected to the “ground”, and the phase from the same twist is connected after the switch. The wiring goes from it to the lighting fixture. There is one drawback: after turning off the lights, the fan also turns off.
Scheme with a two-key switch
The following circuit uses a two-gang switch: one switch for the fan, the other for the lighting. The phase from the distribution box goes to the switch. Then it is connected to two contacts that go to the lighting and hood. “Zero” and grounding from the soldered switch box also go directly to the lamp and fan. To make this connection, you need to run another wire from the switch to the hood. But it’s better to immediately take a three-core wire, lay it from the switch to the distribution box, and connect the devices from it with a separate wire.
Connecting a timing device
Automated hoods equipped with timers are more expensive, but they are convenient to use. This is ideal in the bathroom. Such devices work as follows. They are activated simultaneously with the lighting, and are turned off separately after a specified time period. The device will actively remove odors and moisture after leaving the bathroom, and will turn off automatically after a set period of time.
To properly install the device with your own hands with a timer, you will need four wires. This fan has four contacts. Installation is done according to the following wire connection diagram: L – cable from the unsoldered box, Lt – wire through the light switch, N – “zero” and fourth – grounding into the corresponding socket on the device.
Device with sensors
Installation of a device with a humidity and motion detector is the simplest. Such devices operate autonomously in the absence of any participation from the apartment occupant. For the bathroom it is recommended to install a device that reacts to moisture, and for the toilet - one that responds to movement. The first will be automatically activated and function until the moisture indicator reaches a predetermined level.
Along with humidity, the device will draw out odors. The mechanism that responds to movements is automatically activated, working within its reach. When a person enters the coverage area, it turns on and then turns off with a certain set time delay. Installing such a device in a room will not be difficult: a phase, a “zero” and a ground wire, and if it is not there, then only the first two are connected directly from the soldered box to the hood.
Preparatory actions
Installing an exhaust fan is quite simple work, it’s easy to do it correctly with your own hands. Its installation will be correct if the following rules are followed:
- ventilation of the room will be effective if there is a small gap between the threshold and the door, or the doors have slots;
- the air shaft should not be clogged; it is necessary to check whether there is air movement through it;
- installation is carried out only after connecting the mechanism to the electrical network;
- Sometimes it is necessary to widen the hole for the device, and if it is larger, a plastic pipe or similar gasket is inserted there as a seal. After this, the voids are filled with foam for installation;
- you need to check whether the plastic grill covers the area without finishing; if not, you need to putty and tint these areas of the wall;
When calculating the diameter of the fan, take into account that it is necessary to leave 5–10 mm around its circumference for reliable fixation with sealant, sealant, or polyurethane foam. Power is supplied to the device in advance; any lighting or switch will do. It is most convenient if the power cables are pre-placed in the ventilation duct when laying the tiles. External wiring is also used.
The air shaft must not be clogged
May need a gasket
If the fan has touched the finish, the area needs to be restored.
Connecting wires
The next stage is connecting the power wiring. This must be done before final fixation in order to check the functionality of the hood and the connection diagram. Before installation, turn off the switches on the panel, de-energizing the wiring. Next, remove the front panel of the fan. The power wires are pushed inside it; for this there are holes and channels.
The wires are connected to the terminals of the device, which are hidden by a protective cover. The supply wires are adjusted to size, and the protective sheath is removed from them. If there is no grounding, two wires are enough: phase and neutral. Fans without grounding have two terminals: L – phase wire and N – neutral. The wires are connected to the terminals, the bolts are tightened. Then the protective cover is installed in place and the functionality of the mechanism is checked. After checking, turn off the power and begin fixing.
Location of ventilation ducts
As a rule, fan installation does not require additional system from air ducts . Ventilation will be handled by the axial radial fan, installed on the niche of the exhaust air duct. This method of its location and installation makes sense if the shaft is located directly behind the wall of the bathroom, which can also be combined with a toilet. Many homes are equipped with passive ventilation, a hole in the bathroom wall leading to the toilet. From it the air duct goes to the main ventilation duct. In this case, active ventilation is often used in the toilet (the fan is connected to the mains), and passive ventilation in the bathroom.
If the bathroom and toilet are separated, but have their own separate openings opening into a common shaft, then the best option would be to install a duct fan. It must be installed on the shaft segment where the air ducts from two rooms connect.
When the ventilation duct is located through one or more premises, you will need to bring it directly into the room using plastic or corrugated aluminum ventilation ducts. The fan is installed in all cases as described below.
Installation
The fan housing has holes at each corner for mounting with dowels. But this fixation method has disadvantages: drilling holes in a tile or wall is not easy, you need special equipment (drills, drill). Such a mount is not airtight, gaps remain, and vibration and rattling of the case may occur, so it is better to place the device on a sealant. Silicone glue and liquid nails are applied with a gun or by hand along the perimeter of the ventilation shaft. The surface must be thoroughly cleaned before doing this. The fan is inserted, pressed, its position is checked with a level. It is fixed with tape for two/three hours; after the sealant has completely hardened, it is removed.
Fixation with dowels is more reliable, but it has the above-mentioned disadvantages. The work is carried out as follows. The fan cover is removed, it is applied to the hole on the wall, and the places for drilling holes for dowels are marked with a pencil. Holes are drilled along them, and spacer dowels are inserted there. The device is connected to the network and its functionality is checked. Then it is inserted, screwed with self-tapping screws and closed with a lid.
Making a hole
Creating markup
Creating holes for dowels
Moisture should not be retained inside suspended rack and tension structures, so a ventilation system is required there.
tension and slatted ceiling in some houses it is mounted along the lower edge ceiling beams located at a height of 19–21 cm from the ceiling. The ventilation hole is located inside the hanging structure.
In this case, it is enough to equip a suspended or slatted ceiling with passive ventilation: cut a hole in the ceiling, decorate it decorative grille or a special lamp. Several such holes can be made. An exhaust fan, installed in a wall opening, will draw air through the ceiling vents. This will allow you to choose a device of greater power and, accordingly, noise: the ceiling design will muffle sounds, and the air flow will be stronger, which compensates for the small size ventilation grille in him.
Ventilation hole on the outside of the suspended ceiling
In houses where the air duct opening is located above the level at which a suspended slatted or suspended ceiling is mounted, an exhaust duct or axial fan is inserted into a standard air duct in the wall, and another hole is made on the ceiling sheet opposite it.
The standard width of the slatted structure is 84 mm, so the hole must have a diameter of 80 mm so as not to crush the slatted profile . A hole is drilled in the rail with a drill equipped with a ballerina cutter of 80 or 82 mm.
You can take a larger grille, with a diameter of 100 mm, holes for self-tapping screws are marked on it. It leans against the markings, and mounting holes for fastening are drilled through it . It is not recommended to immediately screw a self-tapping screw into the ceiling (without pre-drilled holes for it): the slightest misfire, it will stick in the wrong place. The screw caps will be hidden by the decorative element of the grille.
In a similar way, do-it-yourself ventilation in tension fabrics, only here the hole is carefully cut out and not drilled. The grille is attached to the ceiling with special clamps or silicone glue.
Regular temperature changes and the use of water in the bathroom make it the wettest room in the apartment. Evaporation from hot water settle on horizontal and vertical surfaces in the form of condensation, creating a steam room when taking a shower or bath.
As a result of increased humidity, pockets of mold form on walls, ceilings and corners. To prevent the development of fungus, the ventilation system is modernized. One way to create a comfortable microclimate is to install equipment such as an extractor hood in the bathroom.
It would seem that stagnation should not exist in a combined bathroom or bathroom, since any living space is equipped with natural ventilation. Moreover, a properly planned ventilation system is one of the conditions for comfortable water procedures.
If we are talking about apartment buildings, then the scheme includes through ventilation shafts that end in the attic or technical floor and have exits in all bathrooms and kitchens without exception. Moreover, modern norms and rules recommend separate ventilation ducts for each apartment individually.
Previously, for channel equipment they used brickwork, now it's concrete wells or PVC pipes.
The diagram of the apartment ventilation device shows the lines and exit points of the ventilation holes. The circulation is designed in such a way that air enters some rooms and is removed from others.
Natural ventilation involves spontaneous circulation of air, which exits through openings in the walls or ceiling into a shaft located in the wall ceilings.
Scheme of the structure of a private ventilation system one-story house may differ slightly: most often the shaft begins with a hole in the ceiling and ends with an exit to the roof.
When designing and installing ventilation, the following rules are followed:
- each room has a separate air duct located vertically;
- when building channels, you should choose a material that guarantees the unhindered passage of air, that is, with smooth internal walls;
- it is allowed to combine several air ducts into one in the attic area;
- if the toilet and bathroom are located in the same apartment, natural ventilation devices can be connected.
Standard air mass movement pattern in a city apartment: Fresh air enters through the windows of the rooms, “used” comes out through the ventilation holes in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet
If natural draft does not justify itself, and circulation is not enough to maintain fresh air, forced ventilation is installed - a device that forces air masses to move from the premises to the shaft.
Sometimes the device compulsory system regulated sanitary standards and rules (SNiP). For example, if the house has a sauna with an electric stove or steam generator. In this case, we recommend that you contact a certified organization for special calculations of the required fan capacities and pipe diameters. Information can always be found on the websites of your city.
When is a hood installed?
Let's try to figure out whether it is possible to independently determine the condition and efficiency of the ventilation system. The test does not require any special skills or special tools. There are “markers” that make it easy to recognize insolvency natural circulation:
- fogging of mirrors and glass surface during water procedures;
- a damp background that does not disappear over time (towels dry slowly);
- the appearance of black dots on the tile seams, in the corners of the ceiling and along the perimeter of the bathtub is the beginning of the development of fungal lesions.
The appearance of mold and mildew is accompanied by an unpleasant odor and gradual destruction of the decorative finish of the walls, but there is also a more serious danger - Negative influence on the health of the apartment owners.
The consequence of insufficient ventilation is the appearance of mold on the grout in the tile joints. If you do not establish air circulation in time and do not get rid of small pockets, the fungus will cover all concrete, plastic, plastered, and wooden surfaces
The ventilation may be faulty. Checking in a simple way- using a lit match. If the flame quickly goes out or leans towards the hood, then the reason lies elsewhere, but if it remains motionless, then it is necessary to clean the shaft and install forced ventilation.
The most popular device that provides maximum air circulation is a fan.
Traditional testing of air movement is not always effective; to accurately determine whether there is a sufficient level of circulation, you should invite a qualified specialist with an anemometer
Do-it-yourself hood in the bathroom
For self-installation The most suitable fan is inserted into a technical frame and equipped with a hydrostat (humidity sensor). The cost of the device depends on the power, volume of pumped air and the availability of additional functions.
For example, the simplest electric model with a power of 40 W costs about 3,000 rubles, and a silent German device with a touch sensor and a reverse protection valve costs 12,000 rubles.
One of the simplest options - inexpensive centrifugal fan With round without additional equipment, installed in the center of the ventilation opening
Preparatory work and installation requirements
Before starting installation work electrical device it is necessary to check whether the ventilation shaft is functioning. A passage that is too narrow, clogged with grease and dust, requires cleaning. The homeowner can clean the channel leading from the apartment to the central riser on his own.
To do this, you need to carefully remove the grille, remove a layer of dust from it, and rinse detergents and dry. The channel walls covered with dirt can be treated with a scraper or a stiff brush, then thoroughly vacuumed and wiped with a damp cloth.
It will be possible to clean a small section ventilation duct, however even preventive work will improve traction.
The small diameter of the hole makes the ventilation duct difficult to access and does not allow for proper cleaning of its walls. Use available materials - hard brushes with handles, pipe cleaners
It will not be possible to clean the central highway yourself, since access to common buildings engineering systems open only to special services. It might make sense to consult with your neighbors and leave a group request to have the main shaft professionally cleaned along the entire length of the riser.
Having provided a path for air to exit the room, care should also be taken to supply ventilation. To do this, it is necessary to create a gap through which replacement air would enter the bath. The greater the distance from the inlet to the hood, the more efficient the ventilation will be.
Sometimes it is enough to make a small, 1.5-2 cm wide gap between the door and the threshold, but if there is not enough traction, a grille should be installed at the bottom of the door leaf.
In the diagram, red arrows indicate the movement of the supply ventilation. It must have access to the bath, toilet and kitchen, otherwise the circulation will be disrupted and installing a fan will be useless
The last point is the choice of a ventilation device model with suitable characteristics: correctly selected power, noise level, functional indicators. The device must be safe for others and easy to maintain. Preference is usually given modern models with timer and humidity sensor.
The hydrostat (humidity sensor) reacts to high humidity and turns on the device automatically.
Be prepared for the installation electric hood requires additional construction work, including making holes in the wall or ceiling, laying cables with subsequent finishing.
Methods of connecting to power supply
The feasibility of one or another connection method depends on the location of the hood, the interior design features and the technical capabilities of the device itself.
Here are the most common options:
- switching on via button or cord;
- simultaneous connection with lighting devices;
- automatic switching on based on humidity level;
- control of a separate switch key.
It is most convenient to use a fan with automatic control: no force is required: it turns on automatically when the humidity level increases. It can be installed in a wall, in a corner or on the ceiling - in any inaccessible place, because there is no need for daily maintenance.
To install the wiring, a wall is tapped or a box is mounted.
The only disadvantage of such models is the high price.
The most common way to disguise wires is to lay the wires under a layer of ceramic tiles. There is another option - eyeliner in the under-ceiling space, if mounted plastic panels or drywall
Inexpensive models are usually equipped with a power button or a short cord, which must be pulled if necessary. Problems arise if the exhaust vent is located above the toilet, bathtub or high on the ceiling - this complicates access to the device. If a fan of this type is installed during the repair process, the cord is replaced with a switch, which is located within an accessible area, and the lead is inserted into the wall.
Combining the simultaneous activation of a lamp and a fan is convenient, but not always rational: one press activates two devices. The fact is that the air does not always have time to ventilate by the time you leave the bathroom, and leaving the light on for the sake of the fan is uneconomical.
Now there are models with delayed fan shutdown. Typically this is ten minutes by default. Some devices have a minute scale and a lever for self-configuration. Sometimes there is equipment with a low-power light source - a “night light”, which burns all the time the fan is running.
A common simple solution is a two-key switch - the lights can be turned off, but the fan can be left running, and vice versa.
Diagram of connecting a fan to a lighting source in a bathroom. The switch, as usual, is brought out into the corridor, and is additionally installed inside the room junction box with clamps
If ceramic tile not yet laid, it is best to hide the wiring under it. In a completely finished room, you will have to use plastic masking boxes. They will look out of place against the background of designer tiles, but they will fulfill their main function – ensuring safety.
How to properly prepare the installation site?
The ideal location for installing the hood is a ventilation hole to ensure natural air circulation, leading to a common riser. It is present in all bathrooms and bathrooms and is usually located at the top main wall, under the ceiling.
The dimensions of the hole allow (during normal operation of the system) a flow rate of 100 m³/h, which is optimal for small bathrooms or combined bathrooms in brick and panel houses typical building.
Before purchasing a ventilation device, be sure to measure the diameter of the outlet opening, otherwise during installation you will have to further expand or narrow the finished opening
The fan is selected taking into account the size of the outlet. Standard parameters diameter - 10 cm, 12.5 cm, 15 cm, respectively, the dimensions of the fan should be similar. If you purchased a powerful hood, the dimensions of which bigger hole, then it can be expanded using a hammer drill.
Often the area of bathrooms in private houses and apartments with an improved layout exceeds 10 m², and one ventilation hole becomes not enough. You can equip an additional channel, but you cannot make changes to the engineering layout of the premises yourself; you must contact specialists.
Fan installation
For self-installation, basic knowledge is required construction tool and a detailed instruction diagram, which usually comes with the device. Manufacturers who value their reputation describe the installation process in an accessible form and in different languages, accompanying the instructions with clear pictures and diagrams.
The absence of a manual means that the company most likely will not provide guarantees and will not be held responsible for the breakdown of the device.
Bathroom fans are made of lightweight material, have compact dimensions and a high level of protection against moisture ingress
So, having cleaned the ventilation duct, stretched the electrical wires and prepared the hole for installation, we proceed in the following order:
- remove the top decorative grille from the device;
- we check the compliance of the dimensions of the duct and the fan;
- we fix the device in the hole (or pipe, if it is necessary to narrow the opening) using sealant, polymer glue, liquid nails or self-tapping screws;
- seal the joints and remaining gaps;
- return the grille to its place;
- connect the device to a power source;
- testing.
The installation process takes no more than 20 minutes, so we advise you not to rush and carry out all manipulations carefully. If there was a thin mosquito net between the grille and the mechanism, do not forget to put it back. It protects the room from small insects, which sometimes penetrate into the bathroom through the ventilation shaft.
We invite you to watch the video instructions for installing the fan yourself:
Before making an exhaust hood in a bathroom or bathroom, you need to select a fan with the necessary characteristics. A device with insufficient functionality will not be able to provide comfortable atmosphere indoors, so you should carefully study all the characteristics of the model you like.
The air exchange rate table presents the parameters that are optimal for various residential and utility rooms. Maximum values – in rooms with high level humidity
Pay attention to power. The minimum indicator is 60 m³/h, the maximum is 250 m³/h; installation of devices with a capacity of less than 100 m³/h is not recommended. The humidity protection class is also important; it is usually marked with the letters IP and for particularly wet rooms, for example, bathrooms, it has values of IP 34 and higher.
The main protection is the sealed case, so carefully inspect the device at the time of purchase.
If you love comfort and modern technical improvements, pay attention to models with motion sensors, which turn on the mechanism only in the presence of moving objects.
However, a more useful humidity sensor is a hydrostat. With its presence, there is no need to control ventilation completely, since it reacts sensitively to increased humidity and independently controls the process of air circulation.
The power of the bathroom exhaust fan Marley SV-100 is only 1 Watt during constant operation. Touch settings make adjustments easy, and automation makes maintenance easy
The timer is useful for those who like everything in order and are accustomed to independently regulating the operation of electrical appliances. You can set the time most convenient for ventilation, and the device will function when you take a shower or, on the contrary, have finished water procedures.
Another important addition for apartment buildings– check valve. It serves as a barrier to the movement of air from other rooms (kitchen, neighboring apartments). And the last thing that should interest you is the noise level emitted by the device during operation. The maximum comfortable limit is 25 dB.
Tips for choosing a bathroom fan in the following video:
If you are used to making repairs in your own apartment yourself, understanding the design of the fan and its installation will not be difficult.
However, building a new ventilation duct or cleaning central highway We recommend entrusting it to specialists.
The air exchange of the bathroom and toilet must be provided before starting the renovation. This will ensure a healthy indoor microclimate and prevent the appearance of fungus and mold. Rooms with high humidity especially need high-quality ventilation. After all, even regular wet cleaning will not save you from reproduction. harmful microorganisms. How to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet yourself is described below.
For private houses, the ventilation system is simple: a channel in the form of pipes is led to the roof or connected to a hood. If the house is made of wood, then even such ventilation is not required. After all, the walls are able to “breathe”, so they easily let air into the room.
For apartments, the situation is complicated by the fact that everyone in the entrance is connected to a single ventilation duct. The lower the location of the apartment, the greater the likelihood that the channel will clog faster.
Ventilation duct in the wall
To check the quality of ventilation, you can hold a lit match to the ventilation hole. If the light does not move or moves very weakly, then the ventilation is not working well.
If the channel is clogged, it is necessary to provide forced ventilation. Such artificial ventilation is ensured by installing a fan in the room. It is built into the air exchange system (ventilation shaft opening). When choosing a fan, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the device will be operated under conditions of high humidity.
Forced ventilation in a residential building
With normal natural ventilation, air from the bathroom exits through the ventilation shaft to the outside of the building. This occurs due to the temperature difference in the apartment and outside. Therefore, a lifting force called thrust appears.
Due to the draft, the air escapes and a vacuum or reduced air pressure is created in the room. At open windows air from the street enters the bathroom to eliminate the pressure difference. This type of ventilation is called natural supply and exhaust ventilation.
How natural ventilation works
For natural supply and exhaust ventilation to be effective, it is necessary to provide a horizontal slot at the bottom of the door. When sealed behind closed doors natural ventilation will not be provided.
But if the natural ventilation in the house is disrupted (for example, when the ventilation pipe is clogged or when it gets warm outside), then problems arise with the hood. Air exchange rates in the bathroom and toilet are set for an outdoor temperature of 5 degrees Celsius.
How to accurately determine a clogged ventilation duct
It is necessary to check the effectiveness of natural ventilation in winter. For this we will need:
- open the windows;
- attach a piece of paper to the ventilation hole;
- The leaf should be pressed against the hole by the air flow.
Checking ventilation using a piece of paper
If the paper holds weakly or even falls off, the ventilation is poor. A more accurate method is to test using a clear cellophane tube and a lit cigarette. To do this, the pipe must be attached to the ventilation hole. A lit cigarette is brought to the open end of the pipe. The speed of smoke movement will indicate the effectiveness of ventilation. Knowing the dimensions of the cylinder, the ventilation performance is calculated.
If traction is poor, you can try to clean it yourself ventilation pipe with a special brush.
Types of fans
According to the installation method, fans can be axial or duct. Channel-type models are often installed for private homes. This ventilation option can simultaneously serve several rooms. This is ensured by the fact that the fan is mounted in a common ventilation duct.
But duct ventilation has an unaesthetic appearance. After all, the channels located under the ceiling will need to be hidden under suspended ceiling or in a box. And this will significantly reduce the space and will be quite expensive. The way out is to use axial fans. It is installed on the hood opening. You just need to accurately select the size of the device.
To prevent it from being sucked into the room unpleasant odors from a common shaft, it is recommended to use models with a check valve.
According to the installation method, fans can be:
- diametrical;
- axial;
- centrifugal;
- centrifugally axial.
Bathroom fans
The diametrical wheel of the device has drum type, but its efficiency is not very high. Axial is installed in a channelless system. This option creates minimal noise. Centrifugal is the most productive, but also the noisiest. The best option is centrifugal-axial, which contains all the advantages - low level noise, high performance and compactness.
Recently, there are fan models that are equipped with additional functions, including:
- timer – taking into account the selected program, the fan can continue to work for some time after switching off;
- motion sensor - ventilation is turned on automatically when people appear in the bathroom;
- humidity sensor – very convenient for damp rooms;
- constant ventilation;
- watch;
- splash protection.
Mixed type duct fan
Duct centrifugal fan
Fan selection
There are several factors to consider when choosing a fan:
- silent device;
- low productivity;
- safety indicator.
The device should produce no more than 40 dB of noise during operation. This will ensure quiet operation. The desired effect is achieved due to the high-density material from which the device is made and the presence of vibration isolators. Mounting the fan on the ceiling will produce much less noise than mounting a duct fan inside the duct.
It is advisable to use a model with a built-in presence sensor in the room. In this case, the device will rarely turn on. After all high performance device may cause a malfunction in the mine air exchange system. To calculate the required fan performance for the bathroom and toilet you need to:
- determine the area of the room;
- multiply the resulting number by 5;
- add about 20% margin to the calculated amount.
A fan heater is purchased based on the calculated performance. According to SNiP standards, the air in the bathroom should be changed 5-8 times. The design of the device must have reliable protection from moisture and splashes. This will protect you from defeat electric shock in case of accidental moisture or splashes on the fan. For wet rooms, the use of models with class IP 34 and higher is provided.
What is needed to install a fan
Before starting work, it is necessary to carry out preparations. To do this, the channel is cleaned of dust and cobwebs. You can clean the shaft from the inside with a special brush. Sometimes residents upper floors a weight tied with a string is lowered into the ventilation shaft from above. But it is best to seek help from specialists. Forced ventilation in the bathroom is done only for a properly functioning shaft.
When installing a duct fan, you must purchase:
- fan;
- air duct;
- glue;
- self-tapping screws;
- cable;
- two-pole switch;
- silicone sealant.
An air duct is provided when the ventilation duct is located across one or more rooms from the bathroom. If there is a ventilation duct in the bathroom, only an axial fan is installed. If the bathroom and toilet are separate rooms, then a special grille is installed between them in the ventilation opening (on both sides).
Basic installation rules
When installing a fan in a bathroom or toilet, you must:
- Place the device opposite the door under the ceiling. At the same time, make a small gap in the door from the floor (about 2 cm). If a gap is not provided under the door, then the efficiency of the fan is reduced to zero;
- protect the fan from water getting inside;
- mount the plastic box using special fasteners;
- for difficult areas use corrugated ventilation duct. At the same time, it can be soft or harder.
The main stages in which the work will be carried out:
- Preparation;
- installation of fan and duct;
- electrical cabling;
- checking the functionality of the device.
The preparation, which involves cleaning the ventilation duct, was described above. Then a hole for the fan is prepared. The opening for the device is expanded using a grinder, chisel and hammer. The hole should be of such a size that the fan “sinks” into it. Only the grille should be visible from the outside. The fan is attached liquid nails, glue or dowels. In addition, a sealant is used to soundproof the operation of the device.
Installation and connection of the exhaust fan
Switch installation
Electrical wiring consists of the following stages:
- turning off the power supply on the panel;
- cable supply from the switch to the fan;
- finishing works;
- turning on the power supply;
- performance checks.
After the power supply is turned off, the fan is powered up. To do this, a cable is led from the two-pole switch to the device. The cable is three-core with 3 grounding conductors. It is advisable to use a two-pole switch, where one contact (button) will turn on the light in the room, and the other will turn on the fan. This is very convenient option, then most often residents forget to turn on the ventilation button.
How to connect the fan correctly
The solution is to use a voltage relay. It is possible to simultaneously turn on the light and ventilation with one button of a two-pole switch. To do this, a relay is placed in a circuit. When you press the button to turn on the light in the bathroom, the current from the machine goes to the relay and the contact on the second switch button (for the fan) closes. This ensures constant ventilation when the lights are on in the room.
If you need to make separate lighting in the bathroom and toilet, then a three-pole circuit breaker is used. Only in this case 2 voltage relays are used. You can also set a timer that will keep the device running for some time after the lights are turned off.
Fan connection diagram with timer
Cable entry
After installing the switch, a cable is led from it to the fan. The cable is a three-core cable, where the 3rd conductor is the grounding one. To do this, you need to ditch the wall. The cable is laid there, then covered with putty and left for a while until the material dries. After this you can start finishing works walls.
If the bathroom renovation has already been completed, then open cable wiring is done in a special box, which is mounted with special fasteners. But the first wiring option is preferable.
After connecting the cable to the fan, a protective grille is installed on it. It is installed on self-tapping screws or special latches. After this, you can connect the power supply to the panel and check the functionality of the device. If you are not sure about self-connection devices to the network, it is better to seek help from specialists.
Installing forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet allows you to solve the ventilation problem. It is not very easy to organize such a system, but with proper planning and consultation with specialists, the problem can be solved and installation is possible. Modern automation systems make hoods very convenient and efficient.