The harvest has been harvested and it's time to prepare for next year. Beginning gardeners breathe more freely. All main work has been completed. All that remains is to buy the seeds and sow them in cups in regular soil taken from your garden. And their surprise is great when an unknown weed sprouts instead of a tomato seedling. The mistake of such gardeners is that they try to feed the baby with roughage instead of baby food. Seedlings need a different soil composition. This mixture can be bought ready-made in specialized stores, but it is best to prepare it yourself.
Seedlings in prepared soil. © seedtosalad Content:
Soil requirements for vegetable seedlings
Regular garden soil is not suitable for sowing seeds. The components of the future mixture must be prepared in the fall. They are harvested in dry weather to avoid the development of the entire range of soil infections and pests.
The soil mixture for seedlings grown for one family will need 1-3 buckets, so it will not be difficult to collect several components in different containers and store them away from autumn rains.
The basic requirements for the soil mixture are light, air- and water-permeable, moisture-absorbing, porous, rich in organic matter and mineral nutrition in the form of accessible salts of basic fertilizers and microelements. The pH of the mixture should be 6.5-7.0, that is, neutral acidity. In the fall, we put the following into separate containers:
- humus (rotted manure) or vermicompost;
- forest leaf or turf soil;
- garden soil from your own plot, from places where herbicides, fungicides and other chemicals were not used;
- sifted wood ash;
- chopped straw or sawdust (not pine), perlite, expanded clay, hydrogel, necessary for loosening the soil.
We replenish the home first aid kit with mineral fertilizers and microelements. We purchase biological products against soil infections and pests. The mixture must contain a large amount (up to 30%) of loosening substances so that the weak root system seedlings did not encounter resistance when growing into the soil.
Preparation of universal soil mixture for seedlings
In free winter time We prepare a soil mixture from the prepared ingredients. The simplest universal soil mixture can be prepared from 3-4 ingredients.
- 1 part leaf (rotted leaves) or turf soil;
- 2 parts of mature humus. Manure, even half-rotted, cannot be used so as not to burn the young roots of the awakened embryo. Instead of humus, you can use weathered non-acidic peat (moor peat) or vermicompost;
- 1 part sifted river sand or sawdust, to loosen the mixture.
Mix the mixture thoroughly and place it in containers (bags, boxes) for disinfection. Disinfection removes weed seeds, soil pests and diseases from the soil mixture.
It is better to start preparing components for soil mixtures in the fall. © Erin Disinfection of soil mixture
Disinfection of the prepared soil mixture can be carried out in several ways, including:
- freezing;
- steaming;
- calcination;
- etching.
IN southern regions It is more expedient to use hot disinfection by steaming or calcination, and in the northern regions, it is easier to use freezing. Treatment with preparations disinfects the soil well. It is better to use biological products, potassium permanganate, that do not harm humans and animals.
Freezing
With the onset of frost, the container with the mixture is taken outside under a canopy to prevent snow from getting in. On outdoors the mixture stays for 3-5 days. With constant frosts of -15...25 ºС, most pests and the seeds of some weeds die. After freezing, the container is brought into a warm room with a temperature of +18...+22-25 ºС.
Seeds and pests that remain alive begin an active life. After 10 days, the container with the soil mixture is again exposed to the frost. The procedure is repeated 2-4 times. During this time, the vast majority of weeds and pests die.
Steaming
A month before sowing the seeds, we steam the soil mixture in a water bath, which can be done in several ways.
- Pour the mixture in small portions into a colander lined with gauze or other loosely woven fabric. Cover the colander with a lid and hold it over a container (bucket or pan) with a small amount of boiling water. The duration of steaming is, depending on the size of the colander, from 10-15 to 30-45 minutes.
- Pour water into the bottom of the tank and install a high stand. We place the soil mixture in an old finely perforated bag on a stand. Steam from boiling water steams the mixture for about 1-2 hours.
Sprinkle the steamed wet soil thin layer on paper or cloth and air dry until ripe. A properly dried soil mixture should, when you squeeze it and then open your palm, easily crumble into small, loose particles that feel a little velvety to the touch.
Calcination
We moisten the soil mixture and scatter it in a 5-6 cm layer on trays. Warm in the oven, preheated to +40...+60 ºС for 30-40 minutes. Then cool.
Etching
Pour the prepared soil mixture into a container. Prepare a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 3 g of the drug per bucket of water. Pour the potassium permanganate solution over the mixture and mix thoroughly. Lay out to dry.
After all types of disinfection, the dried soil mixture is treated with antifungal biofungicides (trichodermin, phytosporin, gamair) and bioinsecticides (boverin, phytoverm, actofite). To restore beneficial microflora, we use the dry preparation “Emochka-Bokashi” or the working solution “Baikal EM-1”. After adding them, lightly moisten the soil mixture. In a warm, humid environment, beneficial microorganisms multiply intensively, destroying the remnants of pathogenic microflora.
Preparing containers for sowing seeds
In the 3rd decade of January we prepare containers for sowing seeds. For sowing, you can purchase 50 g plastic or polyethylene cups and peat humus cubes. You can save money and make your own cups from thick paper without a bottom (they are laid out in small boxes, the bottom of which is covered with film), make humus-earth or peat-humus cubes with a cross-section from 5-6 to 7-10 cm.
Formed briquettes of soil mixture for seedlings. © Cheryl Casselman
Fertilizing prepared soil mixtures
Compiled and disinfected soil mixtures are the basis of the substrate used for sowing seeds.
Some gardeners use a universal type of soil mixture for seedlings of all grown plants. vegetable crops. Add 7-10 g to a bucket of disinfected soil mixture ammonium nitrate, 10-20 g of superphosphate, 5-10 g of potassium sulfate, 40-50 g of lime, a glass of wood ash. The resulting substrate is thoroughly mixed and the containers for sowing are filled 2/3 full.
Table 1 shows the compositions for some vegetable crops based on a universal soil mixture and according to a special recipe. It should be noted that the given formulation of the compositions is not mandatory. Each gardener can use both the given recipe and his own compositions developed by practice.
Table 1: Substrate options for vegetable crops
| Culture | Soil mixture composition | Additives (per bucket of soil mixture) | Timing of sowing seeds |
|---|---|---|---|
| cucumbers | 1 glass of ash, 15 g each of urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate | Beginning of April - mid-May. | |
| 2. Turf soil (1 part), compost or humus (1 part). | 8-10 g ammonium nitrate, 10-15 g superphosphate, 10 g potassium sulfate, 10 g dolomite flour | ||
| 1. Universal mixture (in parts): 1 leaf or turf soil, 2 mature humus, 1 sand, 1 sawdust or perlite | Ash (0.5 cups), 20-25 g superphosphate, 10-15 g urea or potassium sulfate | Mid-March - eggplants and peppers, late March - early April - tomatoes. | |
| Eggplants, tomatoes, sweet peppers | 2. Garden soil (2 parts), humus (2 parts), peat (1 part), rotted sawdust (0.5 parts). | 8-10 g ammonium nitrate, 80 g superphosphate, 20-30 g potassium sulfate | |
| Tomatoes | 3. Humus (1 part), peat (1 part), turf soil (1 part), rotted sawdust (1 part). | 1.5 cups of ash, 20-25 g of urea, 60 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate | |
| Cabbage | 1. Universal mixture (in parts): 1 leaf or turf soil, 2 mature humus, 1 sand, 1 sawdust or perlite | 15-20 g ammonium nitrate or urea, 20-25 g superphosphate, 10 g potassium sulfate, 25 g dolomite flour or lime | February - early cabbage, mid-March is average. |
| 2. Soddy soil (20 parts), ash (5 parts), lime (1 part), sand (1 part). | Without additives |
Using purchased soil and ways to improve it
Independent preparation of a basic soil mixture for growing seedlings does not apply complex work, but takes a certain period of time. Therefore, some gardeners, often beginners, buy ready-made soil mixture. However, when buying ready-made soil, you cannot be sure that it is a quality product. It can be over-acidified, with a high content of low-lying peat, not disinfected, which means it will definitely contain fungal microflora, etc. Therefore, when buying a ready-made substrate, be sure to:
- Check it for acidity, and even if it is positive, add 2-3 tablespoons of dolomite flour or a little slaked lime;
- Carry out the disinfection procedure using one of the methods described above;
- If the soil mixture contains a large amount of peat, add garden soil if necessary (approximately 30-40% of the purchased mass);
- To ensure that the soil mixture, after adding garden soil and other components, is sufficiently moisture-intensive, add a little hydrogel. In a humid environment, it increases in volume by 200-300 times, do not overdo it.
For each bucket of such a modified soil mixture, add 20-30 g of complete mineral fertilizer (nitroammophosphate, azophosphate). Remember! The procedure for improving purchased soil mixture will pay off with high-quality seedlings. If you rely entirely on the integrity of the producers, you may be left without seedlings.
The harvest has been harvested and it is time to prepare for next year. Beginning gardeners breathe more freely. All main work has been completed. All that remains is to buy the seeds and sow them in cups in regular soil taken from your garden. And their surprise is great when an unknown weed sprouts instead of a tomato seedling. The mistake of such gardeners is that they try to feed the baby with roughage instead of baby food. Seedlings need a different soil composition. This mixture can be bought ready-made in specialized stores, but it is best to prepare it yourself.
What soil should I choose for tomato and pepper seedlings?
Today on the market you can see huge selection. You can choose the soil for any plant. But is all purchased soil as good as the manufacturer claims it is? Unfortunately no.
Many manufacturers, instead of nutrient soil, put simple 100% peat in bags. It is impossible to grow seedlings on such soil. Peat can only be used as a leavening agent.
Do not look at the manufacturer’s company, but pay attention to the composition of the soil. Despite the selection, it is very difficult to find good soil for pepper.
General requirements for soil mixtures for tomato and pepper seedlings
The most correct nutrient soil for seedlings is one that fully meets the needs of a particular crop. One plant needs fertile, moist soil, but for another it is a real disaster - give it poor dry soil. Some specimens like acidic soil, but most react negatively to increased acidity. In a word, the dreams of gardeners about a universal soil for seedlings are untenable. However, there are some basic requirements for the potting soil in which you plan to sow your seeds. Do-it-yourself soil for seedlings should be:
Moderately fertile, containing substances necessary for nutrition and beneficial microflora.
- Balanced in composition minerals and organic matter, which must be contained in the soil in a form accessible for absorption by plants.
- Water-permeable, able to retain moisture for a long time.
- Environmentally friendly - free from toxins, salts heavy metals, waste from hazardous industries.
- Having a neutral acidity level.
- Having a good structure - light, crumbly, breathable, free of lumps and foreign inclusions.
- Clay. When added to the soil mixture, clay makes it too dense, poorly permeable to air and water, which leads to diseases of the seedlings.
- Plant residues, actively decomposing components. Rotted leaves or manure can begin to decompose, releasing heat and reducing the concentration of nitrogen in the soil, which is detrimental to young plants. A lack of nitrogen negatively affects their development, and at soil temperatures exceeding 30°C, the roots may even die.
- Weed seeds. They themselves are not so dangerous, but they may contain pathogens.
- Worms, insect larvae. After all, even an earthworm, so useful for garden beds, when in a seedling pot, can cause considerable harm to a young plant.
Read more about the components of mixtures for seedlings of peppers and tomatoes
Peat for pepper and tomato seedlings
Used as a leavening agent. Most soil mixtures require peat additives. There are three types:
- lowland: not sour, rich in nutritional components;
- transition;
- superficial, requiring enrichment with lime or ash. The application of phosphate and magnesium fertilizers is encouraged.
Coarse sand for pepper and tomato seedlings
Provides proper drainage, promoting the formation of the supporting part of the bush. Makes the soil porous and light.
Turf for pepper and tomato seedlings
To saturate the soil mixture and improve the structure, in the summer-autumn period the top soil layer is removed along with the grass. Placed in boxes. Warm up before use.
Sphagnum mosses for pepper and tomato seedlings
Increases moisture capacity. Possessing bactericidal properties, they prevent rotting of the root system of seedlings.
Sawdust for pepper and tomato seedlings
Additives from wood waste lighten the soil and increase its permeability.
Compost for pepper and tomato seedlings
Contains humus, which is so necessary for the successful development of seedlings. Increases fertility and ventilation.
Perlite for pepper and tomato seedlings
When growing seedlings in mixtures containing a substance of volcanic origin, the risk of fungal diseases and rotting of seedlings is reduced. Protects against the formation of lumps, caking, compacting, and temperature changes. 
What should not be in the soil mixture for seedlings of tomatoes and peppers?
Weed seeds, fungal spores, insect eggs and larvae, worms and pathogens.
Toxic substances. You should not take components for the mixture near major highways and airfields, from city lawns, and so on - the dangerous zones can be listed endlessly. I think it’s easier to say where you can get it from: from a forest, a grove, a forest plantation.
Actively decomposing components. When mixing organic matter, the decomposition process should not be activated. You know that it is accompanied by the release of heat and loss of nitrogen - both of which are extremely undesirable for seedlings! And if the temperature rises above +30 °C, the root system of the sprouts may die.
Do not use clay: its properties will significantly deteriorate the quality of the soil mixture and make it unsuitable for growing seedlings.
Why should the soil for seedlings of tomatoes and peppers be disinfected?
This process is necessary to remove pathogens from the soil. You can disinfect soil mixture for home seedlings different ways, one of which is its freezing. But, if this is not possible, then you can use watering disinfectants or steam treatment.
Method one. Pour the prepared fertile mixture well with a solution of potassium permanganate (3 g per 10 liters of water), and then additional processing antifungal drugs.
Method two. The soil for seedlings is placed in a fabric bag or in a perforated container and left to steam for 45 minutes. You can, of course, heat the soil in the oven, but along with the pathogenic microbes, the necessary nutrients also disappear.
After the disinfection process has been completed, seed material can be added to the soil nutrient mixture. Prepared soil for seedlings according to all the rules will guarantee a high and stable harvest at your summer cottage.
Latest articles about gardening
Freezing soil for tomato and pepper seedlings
With the onset of frost, the container with the mixture is taken outside under a canopy to prevent snow from getting in. The mixture is left in the open air for 3-5 days. With constant frosts of -15...25 ºС, most pests and the seeds of some weeds die. After freezing, the container is brought into a warm room with a temperature of +18...+22-25 ºС. Seeds and pests that remain alive begin an active life. After 10 days, the container with the soil mixture is again exposed to the frost. The procedure is repeated 2-4 times. During this time, the vast majority of weeds and pests die. 
Steaming soil for seedlings of tomatoes and peppers
A month before sowing the seeds, we steam the soil mixture in a water bath, which can be done in several ways.
Pour the mixture in small portions into a colander lined with gauze or other loosely woven fabric. Cover the colander with a lid and hold it over a container (bucket or pan) with a small amount of boiling water. The duration of steaming is, depending on the size of the colander, from 10-15 to 30-45 minutes.
Pour water into the bottom of the tank and install a high stand. We place the soil mixture in an old finely holed bag on a stand. Steam from boiling water steams the mixture for about 1-2 hours.
Spread the steamed, damp soil in a thin layer on paper or cloth and air dry until mature. A properly dried soil mixture should, when you squeeze it and then open your palm, easily crumble into small, loose particles that feel a little velvety to the touch.
Preparing soil for seedlings of tomatoes and peppers
Pepper
1. Sod soil (1 part), humus (2 parts).
2. Peat (2 parts), humus (2 parts).
3. Humus (3 parts), turf soil (2 parts).
4. Nutritious peat soil (2 parts), turf soil (1 part).
5. Peat (4 parts), turf soil (2 parts), humus (1 part), rotted sawdust (1 part).
Tomato
1. Peat (16 parts), turf soil (4 parts), mullein (1 part). Add 3 liters of river sand, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 20-30 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium chloride to a bucket of the mixture.
2. Peat (3 parts), sawdust (1 part), mullein (0.5 parts). Add 3 liters of river sand, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 20-30 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium chloride to a bucket of the mixture.
3. Humus (1 part), peat (1 part), turf soil (1 part), rotted sawdust (1 part). Add 1.5 tbsp to a bucket of mixture. ash, 3 tbsp. superphosphate, 1 tbsp. potassium sulfate and 1 tsp. urea.
All types of peppers belong to the nightshade family. distinctive feature is the susceptibility of the root system to external stimuli - even in mature and mature plants. In order for pepper seedlings to be of high quality and healthy, the issue of soil selection must be approached very carefully, because timely watering and fertilizing may not be enough for rapid growth and full development of plants. A land that doesn't have enough nutrients, is one of the main reasons for the problematic cultivation of pepper seedlings at home. Let's take a closer look at which soil is best suited.
The beginning of the planting season for gardeners occurs in early spring or late winter - it is at this time that seeds and planting materials are prepared.
On a note! Ready-made soil, which is sold in gardening stores, usually has universal properties for planting, but to be sure that the growth of pepper seedlings will proceed as desired, it is worth having an idea of the composition and characteristics of the purchased soil.
Distinctive characteristics of suitable soil.
Which soil should you not choose?
- Soil that contains larvae, eggs and other foreign objects that indicate the presence of pests and the development of diseases is not suitable.
- Clay-based soil and peat are not suitable.
- The acidity level is usually indicated on the packaging - do not use the soil if the acidity value is higher than desired.
On a note! Despite the fact that there are a lot of varieties of soil, to obtain high-quality pepper seedlings, it is recommended to prepare the soil mixture yourself.
What to prepare the soil from?
All of the soil components presented below add certain nutrients to the mixture that allow plants to develop better. Here's what we recommend for peppers:
- humus or two-year compost;
- substances to improve soil looseness;
- a small amount of peat;
- foliage-based ground;
- turf.
On a note! When cooking soil mixture At home you can use all the components presented, or some of them.
Now we will tell you in more detail about the characteristics of each component.
Humus
There are differences between compost and humus, so to prepare the mixture you need to understand what is best to use.
Compost is decomposed organic waste, which are usually stored in boxes or specially designated areas. Typically, compost contains traces of peat, garden soil, etc. appearance does not differ from humus, however, it can be used as a component of soil for seedlings no earlier than two years after the initial planting.
On a note! Fresh compost is not suitable for the delicate root system of young peppers.
Humus is the result of overheating of manure, which is already practically devoid of its original odor. As a rule, it smells like ordinary earth or forest soil. The time for preparing and ripening humus is from 2 to 5 years, it is suitable for growing seedlings, garden trees And various types colors.
On a note! At self-training For soil, it is best to use humus, but if this is not possible, compost that has been sitting for at least two years will also work.
Soil disintegrants
These substances are used to give soil necessary structure, which allows water and nutrients to pass through freely. Typically coarse baking powder is used as a leavening agent. river sand or other substances.
On a note! You can use these additives or get by with river sand.
Peat as a component of the soil well enriches its composition. Air flows better to the roots, and the plants receive the necessary amount of nitrogen. When preparing land for peppers in advance, you need to use peat with caution - not all types are suitable.
How is peat classified?
- lowland;
- transition;
- surface.
Lowland and transitional types of peat are suitable for the sensitive root system of pepper seedlings.
On a note! When using surface peat, it is necessary to reduce the acidity with lime or ash.
The main component is rotted leaves that have fallen from trees, the second name is leaf humus. Such soil is either taken directly from the forest under the canopy of trees, or made independently in the garden.
This type of soil is prepared in the same way as compost - it takes the same amount of time and requires identical actions. IN compost heap the foliage pre-collected under the trees is laid in layers with layers of ready soil. To speed up the humus process, the leaves are watered.
On a note! You should wait until the leaf soil decomposes completely, i.e. use it no earlier than after one and a half or two years.
The most best leaves- from under birch and linden, but it is not recommended to use maple, oak or aspen foliage.
Turf
Turf is the top part of the soil, saturated with nutrients and retaining its benefits for a long time (up to several years).
Types of turf:
- heavy turf soil containing clay;
- medium – clay mixed with sand;
- light - with a high sand content.
For spring planting For seedlings, components are harvested in early autumn. All components are laid out in buckets or bags and left to freeze well throughout the winter.
On a note! The earthen mixture does not require special proportions; you can mix all the components, guided by your intuition.
What inorganic substances can be used?
| Substance | Description |
|---|---|
| The sand is first thoroughly washed (it should not contain impurities). Sand is best light shades– dark contains more “extra” substances, for example, manganese or iron. This can harm the root system. Sand loosens the soil well. |
| A suitable substance that is neutral in acidity and free from foreign impurities. Perlite is not subject to decomposition and perfectly absorbs water (four times its own weight). It is added to make it loose and increase the passage of air in the soil; a crust that retains air and water stops forming on the surface. The soil is well moistened and gives water to the roots with the required speed, which has a beneficial effect on the plant. |
| Instead of perlite, you can use vermiculite - it contains magnesium and calcium in quantities acceptable for seedlings. Typically used in combination with perlite to grow hydroponic plants. |
| A polymer substance without additives with increased moisture absorption. When using it, watering becomes less frequent, since the “soil” is sufficiently moist. |
| Placed on the bottom of containers with seedlings under the main layer of soil to form a drainage system. |
| Fluff lime is added to the soil with increased acidity to regulate its level. |
What are the different soil recipes for seedlings?
There are five main compositions of soil mixtures.
- An equal combination of sand, two-year-old compost (humus), garden soil and peat.
- Use equal parts of garden or deciduous soil, sand with turf and humus.
- Superphosphate added to a mixture of lowland peat and aged compost.
- The same amount of sand and peat (lowland or middle) and two parts of turf soil.
- An even amount of humus and leaf soil with turf.
For each of the presented mixture options, any baking powder at your discretion can be used.
On a note! It must be remembered that early compost and fresh manure are not suitable.
Preparation
Typically, pepper seedlings are prepared for planting at the very end of February or early spring. In about seven days, the soil laid in the fall is thawed and disinfected.
Disinfection of soil mixtures
Fungicides and insecticides are used only when you are sure of the presence of pathogenic microflora in the soil. This usually happens if the soil source is unreliable - for example, soil from the forest rather than from the garden.
On a note! The dosage is strictly observed, adhering to individual methods of protection.
You can steam the soil from thirty minutes to two hours. After this, the soil is packed into containers or bags.
The soil can be kept for some time in the oven at a temperature of about 50 degrees. With more high temperature there is a risk of death of beneficial microflora.
On a note! It is allowed to cultivate the land with a light solution of potassium permanganate.
During disinfection, not only people can die harmful bacteria and pests, but also beneficial microflora, so it is recommended to add a certain amount of fertilizer. It is important to strictly follow the dosage - in soil with a high content of fertilizing, pepper seedlings are more susceptible to disease. Typically, fertilizers containing potassium humate are used (for example, “Baikal EM-1”).
Soil in the garden
It is important to take into account the composition of the soil not only when growing seedlings in pots and boxes, but also when transplanting into open ground. The soil in the beds is pre-cultivated before planting the grown seedlings.
Firstly, you need to fertilize the beds seven days in advance - organic or universal mineral fertilizers are suitable. If the acidity level is high, ash and lime are added.
On a note! Reducing acidity is best done in the fall, and not immediately before planting.
Secondly, a few days after fertilizing, thorough watering is carried out - this will distribute the applied nutrients throughout the soil. After this, they wait about a week and begin transplanting the pepper seedlings to the main place.
On a note! A harvest of peppers grown on well-prepared soil will delight the owner with wealth and healthy, large fruits.
When preparing the soil, it is usually not necessary to add additional soil, but if necessary, you can add a little soil to the boxes with seedlings - it is important not to sprinkle the first leaves that appear (cotyledons). Use previously prepared soil, left over from the initial planting, or add treated soil mixed with dried tea leaves. Add soil gradually, several times.
On a note! Once the lower part of the plant becomes woody, you can stop adding soil, otherwise the plant may react negatively with slow rhizome development.
How to properly store soil?
How to establish the correct soil acidity?
Usually in middle lane peppers are planted in greenhouses along with tomato seedlings. But few people know that these crops have completely different requirements for the level of soil acidity. They grow calmly at an acidity above 5 pH, but neutral soil is most suitable.
Acidity is determined simply - you will need a special device with a special earth probe that gives the appropriate values.
On a note! If such measuring instrument no, you can use litmus paper. To use it, take part of the soil from the greenhouse from a depth of just over 10-15 cm and keep it wrapped in gauze in purified distilled water. After this, the test strip is immersed in water and checked against the acidity scale that comes with the kit.
If the acidity of the soil is high, it will need to be reduced. Methods for reducing acidity can be as follows:
- (about 0.5 kg per square meter);
- wood ash (about 1.5 kg per square meter);
- special substance “Lime-Gumi” (according to the instructions, about a glass per square meter).
In some cases, it is necessary to increase the acidity of the soil (if the pH is greater than 7). Then high-moor peat is added - 1.5-2 kilograms per square meter. If the alkali content is high (this is also indicated on the litmus test), you can balance the values by adding ammonium sulfate.
On a note! Such soils are well suited for the application of large amounts of organic fertilizers.
For proper development of pepper, a moderate content of any nutrients is required - their excess or small amount does not allow the seedlings to grow normally.
At large quantities nitrogen, peppers bloom poorly and produce a small amount of yield; the plant has poor resistance to disease. If there is too little nitrogen, the foliage turns yellow, and the fruits are usually underdeveloped and deformed.
– when its quantity is small, they fall off lower leaves, the shoots become woody, and fruit set does not occur. The resulting peppers become covered with spots.
On a note! If the amount of potassium exceeds permissible norm, flowers and ovaries of peppers fall off.
If the plant does not have enough, the leaves first become bluish, then turn red, and flowering is delayed. If there is too much phosphorus, the leaves die and fall off.
If you provide pepper seedlings the necessary conditions, you can confidently expect a rich harvest by mid-summer.
Video - Preparing land for pepper seedlings
Peppers and eggplants are permanent residents of summer cottages, which are grown from year to year. With the onset of the hot season of conservation, they are simply irreplaceable for every housewife. Therefore, the happy owners of land plots try to plant them and get the harvest themselves. Such attempts do not always end in success, in the sense of an abundant, high-quality harvest of vegetables.
This is due to the fact that peppers and (especially the latter) are quite capricious. One of their main requirements is a competent approach to soil selection and preparation. What kind of soil do peppers and eggplants like? In order for plants to grow well, develop and produce large fruits, the soil must be light and nutritious. This applies both to the stage of growing seedlings and directly to the crops themselves in the beds.
Preparing the substrate for growing seedlings
The growing time for peppers and eggplants is approximately three months. Most the best option receiving early harvest is sowing seeds for seedlings in early February.
Seeds for seedlings can be sown in already enriched soil purchased at the store. Or prepare the substrate by mixing it yourself:
- turf soil and humus in a ratio of 1:2;
- humus and sawdust in a ratio of 2:2:1;
- in equal parts humus and peat.
For each bucket of the resulting substrate, add one tablespoon of superphosphate and 2 tablespoons of ash.
Preparing the soil in the beds
Loose and fertile soil Not every gardener can boast of this in their garden. However, thanks to the availability of a wide range of fertilizers, it is possible to improve the composition of the soil.
Preparing beds for peppers and eggplants begins with autumn digging. Secondary digging is done in the spring with the simultaneous addition of organic matter and mineral fertilizers.
To improve the composition of the soil, fertilizers are applied depending on the structure of the soil:
- Loamy (clayey) soil. , sand, sawdust and peat in a ratio of 1:1:0.5:2.
- Peat land. Humus, turf soil and sand are scattered over the beds in equal quantities.
- Sandy land. They bring in one and a half buckets clay soil, half a bucket of sawdust, one bucket each of humus and peat.
Fresh manure is not used to fertilize the soil so as not to burn the seedlings.
In addition, wood ash is scattered on the beds before digging. Mineral fertilizers include potassium sulfate and superphosphate (a tablespoon per square meter), as well as urea (1 tsp).
Land for seedlings of peppers, eggplants and tomatoes - video