DIY frame boat made of plywood - drawings. The simplest homemade plywood boat

First of all, hello everyone! This boat has been in my dreams for a long time; a few years ago I made a model of this boat, but somehow I didn’t have time. And then my Ufimka burst (it’s about time, it’s been built since 1985), so much so that a meter-long hole appeared in the side in the shape of the letter “G”. Believe me, if I wanted, I could repair it, but imagine how much material I immediately had: oarlocks, magnificent bottom and side fabric rubber, oars, etc. All that remains is to purchase sheet plastic. I also considered aluminum as an option, but after becoming familiar with the properties of polypropylene (it is also lighter than water), I finally settled on plastic. I’ll make a reservation right away, nothing worked out with the swaddle - about 1000 NIS for one sheet, but I need at least two. I chose 3mm plastic with the main properties: not to crack under bending load and to keep the rivet line from destruction (many samples cracked precisely along the line of the holes for the rivets) at a price of 200 NIS per sheet. My initial conditions were the following: a folding boat, with a maximum folded length of 1.5 m, 2-seater with a carrying capacity of at least 180 kg, absolute buoyancy, i.e. non-sinking even when completely filled with water, stern, keel with the keel transition to a minimum at the stern, stable in rough seas, lightweight when working with oars and with a low dead weight, with an option for a small electric motor and with useful devices, such as a “chest of drawers” for accessories and boxes for bait under the seats, light racks for spinning rods and, of course, with minimal time for installation and dismantling. I met all these parameters. Boat weight 18 kg. And now its dimensions: in working condition, length 2.5 m, width 0.95 m, side height 0.3 m, total height 0.45 m; V transport condition: length 1.5 m, width 0.3 m, package thickness 0.08 m. The kit also includes 2 seats, a stern insert, frame stiffening tubes and oars. Now let's talk about how we had to achieve some parameters. Buoyancy - strips of material similar to soldiers' mattresses are glued along the sides (they do not sink and are moisture resistant), the same strips are glued to the seats and feed, all the frame tubes are plastic with plugs at the ends, which does not allow water to fill them, in extreme cases, if this will not be enough (although this is unlikely) I marked on the bow and stern of the boat places for attaching 2 floats, similar to those of the rescuers from the famous TV series). As a connecting material, I used rubber strips from the bottom, and the aft flexible part from the side of my Ufimka, set with glue and then riveted. I carried out all the work in my apartment, in the absence of household members - fortunately, when they arrived, the entire system was easily hidden behind the sofa.

I indicated the weight of the boat -18kg. Cost: 400 sh - plastic, 100 sh - glue and rivets, 100 sh - pipe and couplings for the stiffening frame, 50 sh - connecting screws with wing nuts and fasteners for side plastic. Everything else: rubber and oarlocks from an old boat, plywood for the seats and under the oarlocks - scraps, edging along the top of the side - scraps of pipes for drip irrigation. And the rest is hands. I don’t know how much it might cost for sale, maybe the fishermen themselves will appreciate it? Regarding the pressure on bottom seam, then I distributed the main pressure (in a sitting position) over 3 seams, there is an option for connecting with a tube and side seams under oblique supports in the same way as the keel part. As for the flooring, a 50x60cm wooden lattice between the seats with two transverse ribs along the outline of the bottom is sufficient. I also want to put umbrella fabric over the top with Velcro from the bow of the boat to the first seat in case of rain, to keep things dry. At first I wanted to make a 3-meter one, but I had to buy another sheet of plastic with a large remainder after cutting. So I went with the minimum.

PS. The cost of materials is indicated in SHEKELS.

Production time, so slowly, is about a week. It took a lot of time to find suitable plastic. I’m retired, so when my household left, I took everything out from behind the back of the sofa and did it. I already wrote that the rubber, rowlocks and oars I had were from a broken boat, and the rest was a matter of technique. But first I made a 25 cm model from thin plastic. And with this boat it was easier for me also because it is my second homemade boat. The first was a frame made of plastic pipes and thin tarpaulin. When disassembled, it was no longer than a meter. In short, a bag with tubes and a cover. I want to do something like this too. That one was even lighter, and with the current choice of material, there should be shine.
As for the pattern, everything is simple. The width of the canvas is 30cm, the short part is 1 meter long, the bow part is 1.5 meters. Step back 1 meter from the nose edge and bring it in two arcs to the middle. It is clearly visible in the photo. But I still advise you to start with a small model. There, instead of rubber, you can use adhesive tape. The model can provide everything possible options, and it’s much easier to correct mistakes. To be honest, I didn’t give any importance to the name of the plastic. At first I was looking for polypropylene, since it is not brittle and is lighter than water, but it has an exorbitant (for me) price. Then he began to select according to the principle: crushed, touched, broken. The main condition is not to burst at full bend (this means that the body will not burst upon impact), and not to crack along the holes for the rivets. And I maintained buoyancy in a flooded state due to additional side linings from a soldier’s rug. The glue is ordinary rubber, but the main condition for gluing is: cleaning, degreasing and degreasing the surfaces to be bonded, and mandatory soaking for min. 15 minutes after applying the glue, before joining. And I also think it is very important to additionally cover the edges of the rubber strips along the entire length of the boat with thin strips of rubberized fabric, like on factory boats.
About the changes. Already changed: the boat is designed for 2 people, but with one person the center of gravity moves to the “bow” of the boat and it goes down, and the stern rises, the wave overwhelms us, so the seat for the rower was moved closer to the center of gravity, which is easy to determine from the layout -models. Regarding the height of the side, I proceeded from the maximum cutting standard sheet. but, for the future, I think that a side width of 40 cm, instead of 33, will still be preferable, and stability will increase due to an increase in the overall width of the boat.

The boat is double in terms of the number of seats and carrying capacity.
There is no need to hit anyone with oars; when there are two in the boat, the seat is inserted closer to the “bow” of the boat, and when there is only one, then 30 cm to the stern. As for convenience, it is naturally more convenient for one person, but, if desired, the boat can handle the other. Good luck!

Folding boat for Mercury 3.3

Homemade folding boat

InstaBOAT For Sale_Setup the Boat

Every professional fisherman or hunter simply must have a boat in their arsenal. At the moment, the market is overflowing with an assortment of boats of various models and modifications for different tastes and incomes.

This article will outline detailed description, how to create your own boat with your own hands.

Self-assembly of a boat from plywood

Many people wonder whether it is possible to make a high-quality swimming device on their own, save on it and enjoy the manufacturing process.

Homemade boats have a number of undeniable advantages in front of their factory “brothers”:

Product weight. When using plywood, weight is significantly reduced compared to similar wooden or metal models.
Using solid sheets will allow you to create perfect shapes, which will provide excellent stability and ensure ease of launching.
Minimum final cost. It will be spent, you will only have to Consumables, such as plywood, boards and glue, varnish. It is worth noting that a lot can be found in the garage of a thrifty owner.

People with carpentry skills will spend one and a half weeks on this work, provided they work in free time or two full days.

Dimensions and drawings

Let's consider technical capabilities future boat in more detail.

Relatively flat and narrowed bottom with a slight rise in the bow and stern. The height of the bow of the side is 540 millimeters, which in turn is more than many motor boats similar class.

To ensure that the high nose does not interfere with visibility, a cut is made along the length of the nose by 100 millimeters. The bow is designed in such a way as to facilitate the embarkation or disembarkation of passengers, as well as loading.

Special cargo compartments are provided under the bow and stern. Design provides for the possibility of using oars and low-power motors up to 8 horsepower.

This model can be safely called multifunctional, as it is perfect for hunting, fishing and just household needs.

It is possible to install a canopy, in case of bad weather conditions, on a special aluminum structure for which there are nests on the side of the boat.

Maximum length in meters 2.3. Width in meters 1.34

Side height:

The nose is 54 centimeters.
The back is 40 centimeters.
Stern height 45 centimeters.
The body weight is twenty kilograms.
Load capacity 180 kilograms.

Possibility of installing an outboard motor from two to eight horsepower.

It is possible to use one pair of oars.

Figure No. 1:

A) View of the bottom.
B) Top view.
B) Transom (blanks)

Figure No. 2. External cladding (sheet preparation):

A) Board.
B) Cheekbone.
B) Bottom.

Materials for construction

To build a homemade boat, you will need some experience with carpentry tools.

Below is a list of tools you will need:

Screwdriver
Manual milling machine.
Hand sander.
Clamps.
Electric jigsaw.

List of materials for assembly:

Waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and dimensions of 2.5 by 1.25 meters and one and a half sheets of 6 millimeters.
Planed boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters.
Wooden slats.
Brass nails.
Self-tapping screws for wood.
Epoxy resin.
The varnish is waterproof.
Fiberglass.
Beam 50 by 3400
Beam 40 by 20 by 4000

Assembly - detailed instructions, step by step

Making a frame for the sides

The frame is assembled on a workbench and finished on the ground. Place the keel on the workbench, to one side of which the sternpost with a pre-attached transom is attached, and to the other side the stem.

The keel part with attached frames and stems is connected with nails.

You should carefully check for any distortions and, if there are any, make adjustments.

Adjustments can be made by stretching the string between the stem and the transom. After making sure that the axes coincide, you can finally fix it.

A thin cloth or paper impregnated with thick paint or resin is laid between all connections.

After the stems have been secured, you can begin installing the frames.

A cutout for the keel should be made on the frames at right angles. For a tight and reliable fastening of the frame, the cut under the keel should be made 0.5 millimeters narrower than the frame.

The fit should be checked with a stretched rope, which should coincide with the beams. By installing the frames at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the keel, you can finally secure it. After all the operations performed, you should set the deflection angle.

For this purpose, you can use a round or rectangular shape, which is temporarily attached to the ends of the keel with inside, and between the keel and the timber a beam of 11 centimeters is inserted.

To eliminate lateral distortions, the stems and transom, as well as the beams, are fastened with some kind of beam.

Frame covering

After this, he will draw in the same dimensions the formats of the plywood sheets prepared for cladding and try on templates on these sheets to minimize the amount of waste.

The contours of parts of natural size when marking on plywood can be obtained by connecting the points found when setting the given dimensions from the axes of the parts using a long ruler or pattern.

All parts are cut out with a jigsaw with fine teeth, taking into account a margin of 2 - 3 millimeters. For subsequent joining of sheets, you will need to add 70 millimeters.

Before gluing, you should align the axes of the parts to be glued using a thread driven between the boards on which the workpiece will be attached.

After the glue has hardened, identical parts of the board should be knocked together with small nails and adjusted together with a plane.

Along both edges of the cheekbones, at a distance of 12 millimeters, holes with a diameter of 2 millimeters are drilled in increments of 50 millimeters for the wire fasteners that will be used to connect later.

Fastening the casing should begin from the bow of the boat, fastening copper wire, through holes made along the bottom and side. Twist the wire with outside two or three turns with a little slack.

Then we sheathe the transom and bottom of the boat

After the sides are assembled, templates A and B are installed and temporarily secured in the positions shown on the layout of the skin drawing.

Having assembled the bottom according to the same principle that was used when assembling the sides, you should install the boat transom and secure it with 3x18 screws at a distance of 50 millimeters using glue.

There is a possibility that the sides will protrude aft beyond the transom; in this case, the edges should be trimmed with a plane.

After all the above operations have been completed, you should finally tighten all the paper clips with pliers and crimp everything from the inside.

Fiberglass

All cracks and joints of the resulting boat should be glued with fiberglass cut into strips.

The first layer must be at least 25 millimeters wide, and the next two layers at least 80 millimeters, however, it is worth considering that the 2nd and 3rd layers should be offset in different directions from 10 to 15 millimeters.

After the fiberglass has completely hardened, cut off the protruding ends of the wire fasteners and glue them with fiberglass on the outside.

The bottom should be reinforced with strips to increase its rigidity and increase its service life. This is done this way:

The prepared strips are drilled for screws in increments of 20 - 25 centimeters. After this, the blanks are laid out in place and attached to screws, marked with a pencil and removed.

The marked areas are treated with glue and the workpieces are screwed back.

After the glue has dried, the screws can be unscrewed and the holes filled with specially prepared nails cut from wood.

After removing the auxiliary devices, all holes in the boat skin must be filled with sawdust or wood flour mixed with epoxy resin.

The inside of the body is treated with hot drying oil. You can use it to paint the bottom and cans of a ship. regular paint oil based.

Glue selection

The following adhesive materials are used in the construction of boats:

Epoxy resins.
Vinyl ester resins.
Polyester resins.

Let's take a closer look at the above listed resins:

Epoxy resin can safely be called a universal resin used in the production of swimming equipment, and has found indispensable application in composite structures and ship repairs. These resins provide the most high quality glue seam.
Vinyl ester resin is essentially a hybrid compound. Increased strength is provided by epoxy molecules. Moderate shrinkage during hardening, and high strength prevents the formation of cracks during hardening. It is also worth noting the increased toxicity of this type of resin and quite high cost, in comparison with other types.
Polyester resins can easily be called the cheapest type of resin, used in the construction of ships using plastic.
The main advantage, in comparison with other types of resins, is the relative cheapness of this product. The only disadvantages include the fact that it is used only for gluing fiberglass.
These types of resins are used for the construction of boats and yachts and are used to impregnate products in the process of plastic reinforcement.

Regardless of the material, absorbency and adhesion are undoubtedly key to making a quality boat.

Before you start building wooden boat, it is necessary to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the smoothest, longest, enough wide boards which are made of spruce or pine.

Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards on its sides that have knots - this is very important. The boards for this part of the boat must remain in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.

Choosing boards for work

Before production begins, it is necessary to once again ensure that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board you need to measure the required length and carefully cut them at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.

After this, you need to plan them and check that the boards connected to each other do not have gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.

The next step is to prepare the bow of the boat, using a triangular block. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The timber is also planed and covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to select suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the supply, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to search and start all over again.

Boat assembly

When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to begin assembling the product. You should start from the bow. Both sides and the triangular block must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to immediately cut off the protrusions at the top and bottom so that they do not interfere in the future.

The next step is very important and responsible, since it is necessary to give the future boat its shape. You need to decide on the width of the boat and place a spacer in the middle. Choose a board for the spacer that is the same size as the height of the boat, so the sides will not burst.

Once the brace is properly installed, you can begin to shape the boat, call a few people to help or stock up on ropes to hold the structure in place.

Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern to make the boat so that when connecting the back wall and sides there are no gaps or cracks.

When the backdrop is installed, cut off the excess part from below, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next we work on the spacers, which will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats, which are installed on top of the spacers. You can determine the number, as well as the location of these elements yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.

We align everything on the bottom in one plane and process protective layer the entire surface. When the glue dries, start making the bottom of the boat.

The best option for the bottom would be a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find a sheet that matches the size of the boat.

How to make the bottom of a boat with your own hands

Place the future boat on a sheet of metal and trace its boundaries with a marker, do not forget to take a few centimeters of extra space just in case, you can always trim off the excess.

The next step is to cover the connection between the boat and its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length in one line. On top of the sealant, until it has dried, a cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary to ensure that the bottom of the boat is airtight and does not let water inside.

When this process is completed, we move on to connecting the bottom to the frame. Carefully place the bottom of the boat over the bottom of the boat. Use nails or screws to connect.

Start connecting from the middle and move towards the edges of the boat. Do the work as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.

We cut off the excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the bow of the boat from external factors using the same metal. Cut a rectangle of tin to the size of the boat.

Wherever wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to go through with sealant and lace. By this time, before you start “wrapping” the bow with metal, you need to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.

Be sure to make a fastening on the bow for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, since it will attract attention on a body of water. Special attention due to its novelty.

Before you build a boat, think through and look at all the ideas that you can use to make a boat. Perhaps you will choose a special material for yourself that will be more convenient for you to work with, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.

Don't forget to cover the bottom with reverse side special paint, since galvanized metal is destroyed over time when in contact with water. The wooden parts of the boat must be coated with several layers of special impregnation and the boat must be left to dry in the shade.

For convenience, inside the boat on its bottom you can lay out wood flooring. This way the bottom will not rattle when you move along it.

At this point the boat will be ready. Read in more detail the article on how to make the best homemade boats with a description to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future construction.

DIY boat photo

From ancient times to the present day, one of the integral parts of human development has been the fishing craft. The first intelligent creatures caught fish with their hands, relying only on their dexterity, and with the development of intelligence and human abilities, certain devices and tools appeared (from a sharpened stick, which was used to prick fish in shallow water, to modern high-quality rods and reels), which made it possible to catch more fish and faster.

One of the most significant inventions of mankind is the creation of swimming facilities, which have progressed from an ordinary raft of tree trunks fastened together to comfortable yachts and cruise ships.

The simplest boat, invented back in initial stage development of shipping, is still in demand, because millions of men and women, experiencing primitive excitement, spend hours and even days fishing, which is an excellent form of active and useful recreation.

Also, a boat is an excellent means of cultural pastime - isn’t it great to take a rowing boat ride on the lake near your cottage before going to bed, accompanied by the singing of birds and the splashing of fish coming out for their evening meal? This type of relaxation will be an excellent calmer for the nerves and a way to immerse yourself and your thoughts.

Unfortunately, good boats They often have a very high price, which not everyone can afford. And if the boat is not used very often, then there is no point in such large expenses.

Fortunately, there are many types of this individual watercraft, which (with a certain perseverance and responsibility in the approach) are quite simple to assemble with your own hands from not the most scarce materials. This article will be devoted specifically to assembling your own boat with your own hands.

Boat types

Boats come in different types depending on their design, immersion depth, hull shape, propulsion force and material of manufacture.

Main types of boats by type of material:

rubber (inflatable);
metal;
wooden;

Type driving force There are three main types of boats:

rowing (oaring);
motor;
sailing

Boats are also divided into types according to the type of structure:

dugout boats - hollowed out (or burnt out) from a tree trunk;
composite boats - assembled from two or three or more parts;
frame - a rigid structure covered with sheathing (tarpaulin, wood, bark, plywood).

And finally, boats differ in the type of landing on the water:

flat-bottomed;
round bottom;
keel

What kind of boat will we build?

We will focus on the construction of a plywood frame flat-bottomed boat, due to the fact that the materials necessary to build such a vessel are not in short supply and are easily accessible. In addition, such a boat will cost us quite cheap, which will be an undeniable advantage.

A flat-bottomed boat is very convenient to use; its flat bottom allows you to navigate even in shallow water - you can start your voyage from the very shore and make it even along small forest rivers. The flat bottom provides the boat with reliable stability on the water, and the material used provides good buoyancy.

Construction of a frame plywood flat-bottomed boat:

A flat-bottomed boat has a very simple design, which is what attracts people who want to assemble a boat with their own hands.

Its design includes:

a frame assembled from frames (transverse ribs of the boat) and a keel beam (a longitudinal beam running in the center and forming a keel - a kind of spine of the ship) - a set of the vessel;
sheathing (in our case, plywood).

In shipbuilding, every detail has its own specific name, which is not recommended to be confused. Let's get acquainted with a few of them - so as not to fall flat on your face when discussing your finished boat with a professional boatbuilder, to whom you may decide to brag about your success.

Construction details and their dimensions - what you will need

on the sides - 5 millimeters;
on the bottom - 6 millimeters.

hammer;
hacksaw;
jigsaw;
chisel;
plane;
sandpaper;
meter;
ruler;
construction pencil;
plumb line;
level;
epoxy glue.

Preparation of the workplace

Starting a workflow

So, on the slipway or on your floor, in the grooves on the fixed crossbars, a keel beam is installed, prepared according to the drawing you previously developed for the boat that we are going to build. I would like to note that the drawing must be made carefully and thoughtfully, but despite this, it implementation will not be difficult - just estimate the dimensions of the desired boat and compare it with the dimensions indicated above, and also think over your unique shape, guided by the knowledge gained from the previous paragraphs.

Rough installation of frames

Installation of stringers

After the epoxy glue has dried, carry out similar operations first with the cheekbones and then with the bottom stringers.

Preparing the frame for sheathing

The boat frame is almost ready. Now it needs to be prepared for covering. Preparation consists of removing all protrusions and roughness using a plane and sandpaper, to make it streamlined. Stringers should not protrude beyond the edge of the frames, stem and transom. It is necessary to control the quality of preparation for the plating using thin slats, bending them around the sides of the future boat and checking how tightly it fits to all parts of the structure.

Implementation next stage building a boat will determine the entire success of your enterprise. Sheathing is one of the most critical stages in the construction of your small boat. Sheathing of a flat-bottomed boat should be carried out in the following sequence: first the bottom, then the sides. Sheathing is carried out with sheets of plywood as much as possible big size, pre-treated from the inside with drying oil in several layers. Avoid joints as much as possible. If this is not possible, then glue the joints on the reverse side with strips of the same plywood of considerable width.

Additionally, the inside of the skin can be coated with construction varnish after installation on the frame. After complete drying and careful inspection, you need to carefully sand the surfaces.

Boat painting

That's it, your boat is ready. Behind you is hard work, and right in front of you is your brainchild, created with my own hands. Now all that remains is to collect the fishing rods, dig up the worms, lower the boat (quite light, since it is covered with plywood) into the water and hit the road or at least for a short walk. But it is important to leave one piece of advice in this article - never forget about your own safety. There is nothing more expensive human life, and no successfully caught fish will pay for it. Fill the free space in the bow of the boat and between the frames with foam or plastic containers. If you have one, then put on a life preserver
We will also need plywood for sheathing thickness:

on the sides - 5 millimeters;
on the bottom - 6 millimeters.

Among other things, you will also need tools. Their list:

hammer;
hacksaw;
jigsaw;
chisel;
plane;
sandpaper;
meter;
ruler;
construction pencil;
plumb line;
level;
epoxy glue.

After preparation necessary details construction, you can begin assembling the frame.

Preparation of the workplace

First you need a slipway - it’s level wooden shield measuring 3.5 meters by 1 meter, necessary for installing the keel beam and subsequent assembly of the frame. The floor of your workshop is also suitable as a slipway, on which you need to firmly secure the keel using bars with grooves.

The tool should always be at hand. Workplace should be comfortable and clean.

Frame assembly, instructions and assembly procedure

Starting a workflow

I would like to note that the drawing should be made carefully and thoughtfully, but despite this, its implementation will not be difficult - just estimate the dimensions of the desired boat and compare it with the dimensions indicated above, and also think over your unique shape, guided by the knowledge gained from previous points.

Rough installation of frames

The frames are installed with temporary fastenings convenient for you on a pre-marked keel beam, taking into account the fact that the zero frame, consisting only of a transom (with a groove prepared for the keel beam) and its fastening in the form of a wooden corner, is attached in relation to the vertical plane at 10 degrees.

Installation of frames in prepared grooves

The frames (with grooves prepared on their outer side for the keel and fender beams, as well as for the stringers), set plumb and level, are installed on the keel beam using nails/screws and epoxy glue.

Installation of stringers

The stringers are installed in the same way as the keel beam - in pre-prepared grooves of the frames and fixed with epoxy glue and nails/screws.

The procedure for installing stringers is as follows:

zygomatic stringers (located at the junction of toptimber and floortimber);
bottom stringers located symmetrically to the keel beam at a distance of ½ from the keel to the bilge stringers;
side stringers (located slightly above ½ the height of the toptimbers).

Fixing stringers and stem

This is probably the most difficult procedure when assembling a boat, since in order to fit the stringers to the stem (bow of the boat), they will need to be bent and securely fixed.

This procedure is carried out as follows: after adjusting and installing the stem on the keel beam using the groove method, you need to wait until the epoxy glue has completely dried, and then mark the grooves on the stem, cut them out and fit the side stringers to them, fixing them in the standard way.

After the epoxy glue has dried, carry out similar operations first with the cheekbones and then with the bottom stringers.

Preparing the frame for sheathing

The boat frame is almost ready. Now it needs to be prepared for covering. Preparation consists of removing all protrusions and roughness using a plane and sandpaper to make it streamlined. Stringers should not protrude beyond the edge of the frames, stem and transom.

It is necessary to control the quality of preparation for plating using thin slats, bending them around the sides of the future boat and checking how tightly it fits to all parts of the structure.

Attention! Poor preparation of the boat for sheathing will inevitably lead to leaks as a result of loose fit of the sheathing to the frame. Sheathing: The most important thing is the bottom and sides of the boat.

Carrying out the next stage of boat construction will determine the entire success of your enterprise. Sheathing is one of the most critical stages in the construction of your small boat. The covering of a flat-bottomed boat should be carried out in the following sequence: first the bottom, then the sides.

Sheathing is carried out with sheets of plywood of the largest possible size, pre-treated from the inside with drying oil in several layers. Avoid joints as much as possible. If this is not possible, then glue the joints on the reverse side with strips of the same plywood of considerable width.

In no case should the joints be placed along the frames - it is better between them. Carefully work out each joint epoxy glue or other sealing methods. Fasten with screws. Also carefully treat the fastening points with epoxy resin.

Additionally, the inside of the skin can be coated with construction varnish after installation on the frame. After complete drying and careful inspection, you need to carefully sand the surfaces.

Boat painting

Painting a boat is a simple matter; it all depends on your tastes and creativity. But since your new, fresh boat is covered with plywood, it is best to paint it with a thick layer of epoxy paint, which can be found at any hardware store. Epoxy paint not only will it look good, but it will also make the boat even more airtight.

That's it, your boat is ready. Behind you is hard work, and right in front of you is your brainchild, created with your own hands. Now all that remains is to collect the fishing rods, dig up the worms, lower the boat (quite light, since it is lined with plywood) into the water and hit the road, or at least for a short walk.

But it is important to leave one piece of advice in this article - never forget about your own safety. There is nothing more valuable than human life, and no successfully caught fish will pay for it. Fill the free space in the bow of the boat and between the frames with foam or plastic containers.

If you have one, then put it on. And never go out on the water in strong winds.
Happy sailing!

How to make a wooden punt boat with your own hands for small trips on reservoirs. Let's dwell on small model, which can be transported on the trunk of a car or in a car trailer.

Characteristics of the boat:

length, m, 2.918;
width, m, 1.052;
height, m, 0.400;
material, wood and plywood;
propulsion, oar and motor (low-power, no more than two horsepower, gasoline or electric).

Front view

Back view

Side view

View from above

Bottom view

Detailing of a wooden punt boat:

Central bar
Frames
Nose element
Stern
Seats
Deck

To make the boat we will use plywood of the following brands: FBS; BS; FB, which contains bakelite glue. These grades of material have very high moisture resistance and strength. Plywood is produced following types sizes АхВхС.

Where:
A– thickness – 5; 7; 10; 12; 14; 16; 18 (mm);
IN– width – 1508 (mm);
WITH– length – 5300; 5600 (mm);
Material density – 1200 (kg/m³).

The central beam, frames, bow element, stern, seats are made from plywood eighteen millimeters thick.
The sides are made from plywood ten millimeters thick.
The bottom and deck are made of plywood five millimeters thick.

Assembly order

We fix six frames on the slipway table. From above we insert the central block with grooves onto the frames. We fix the nose element. We secure the stern.

We install spacers between the top edges of each frame. Spacers are necessary to provide structural strength during the assembly of the sides. We attach the left and right sides to the frames. In order for a plywood piece to bend easily, two conditions must be met: moisture and heat, therefore it must be heated with steam or hot water.

We fasten the bottom to the sides with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

We fasten the seats and remove the spacers. We attach the seats to bars screwed to the sides.

We secure the deck. The deck is secured around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

ADVIСE:

1. We fasten the boat parts together with universal self-tapping screws of different lengths.
2. To ensure the waterproofness of the boat, the joints of the structure must be lubricated with glue (VIAM-B\Z).
3. On the outside, we recommend taping the seams with waterproof material.
4. Screw the bottom with screws at intervals of forty centimeters.
5. You can put it on the bottom of the boat wooden gratings, which will rest on the frames.
6. Before painting, the boat must be coated with primer. The easiest way is to cover it with drying oil heated to a boil. Apply the primer both outside and inside.
7. After the drying oil has dried, apply bright colors various colors and shades. We dilute the paint to a liquid state in order to apply it to the surface of the boat two or three times.
8. Coating plywood with nitro paints is not recommended. High quality coating surfaces is the key to the durability of your product.

The proposed model, made with your own hands, can comfortably accommodate two fishermen.
As you can see, the proposed model is easy to manufacture, there are only thirteen assembly units and three types of thicknesses of the material used.

DIY projects.
Sailing yachts

"Natalie"	*Cruising dinghy 5.9m, for recreation and tourism.*
"Crucian 500"	Small cruising dinghy 5m long
"Fox 500"	Light yacht 5m long with deckhouse - shelter.
"Natalie600"	Trailer boat made of plywood with a radius chine, 6m long.
"Natalie 695"	*Tourist dinghy 6.95m for recreation and tourism.*
"Altruist"	Small family 4.88m yacht
"Natalie 800M"	Trailer cruising dinghy 8 m long, latrine, galley 4-5 berths.
"Natalie 850"	Cruiser, dinghy, 8.5m long, with all amenities.
"Anastasia 590"	Cruiser 5.9m with all amenities
"Natalie 700"	Family cruiser 7m long, with all the amenities, a compromise.
"Natalie 625"	Cruising dinghy 6-6.25m long
"Natalie 460"	*Small dinghy, 4.6m long*
"Natalie 850"	The yacht is 8.5m long, with a radial bilge.

Motor boats and boats made of plywood.

Cost of projects

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The type of boat hull determines the type of propeller that is needed to ensure proper operation of a boat of this design in a pond.
There are two main types of carcasses: the movement type and the sliding type.

Sailing ships are relatively slow. They are supported by the mass of water they remove (i.e. static water pressure). Their design features a slightly oriented or rounded feed shape and a sharp or rounded nose shape.

They sit deep in the water, like ocean ships. During operation, the propellers on these boats are completely submerged in the water and have a significantly smaller pitch.

Plane-type aircraft that contain the majority of a recreational vessel operating at low speeds (less than 10 kilometers per hour) as well as a moving hull type.

With sufficient power, these vessels are mounted on the surface of the water and operate in sliding, floating and dynamic pressure (rotation speed) modes of supported water. Skate boat types tend to be larger fleet and more efficient than moving hull boats.

Their design differs from the shear design as their wide trans is essentially at a sharp angle at the base of the boat. The propellers on such ships are often not completely submerged, and with this expansion to the upper speed range, increased buoyancy and stability, as well as big step propeller and the angle of incidence of the blades.

Below is a description of typical housing models for use with external motors and other feed systems.

Example with stepped bottom

In general, an example of a stepped design is the keel body version (with a V-shaped bottom).

This housing design causes cavitation on work surface boats due to the numerous side stairs at the junction with the bottom. Cavitation in the area of lower contact with the water surface reduces braking, which leads to an increase in boat speed.

Kiel (V-shaped) bottom

At this time, the most common lower type of boat design allows for a good degree of combined with a softer turning ability of the boat, which depends on the angle of the V-shaped bottom (the so-called "deadrise angle"), the radius or shape of the keel line and the surface of the dog boat.

To increase the upper speed limit with a slight loss of softness, smoothness, the sharp keel at the end of the lower part moves from bow to stern in the reference plane (in cross section) trapezoidal shape [arrow shown, shaded area that extends in the plane of the bow to the stern of the keel (top view)].

To get the desired performance, each boat manufacturer has a different way of deciding on the number of stripes and exactly how they move back (to trans).

The more belts, the higher the lift of the boat from the water and the trimmer along the road, but the progress of the vessel is somewhat more difficult.

Catamaran hull

This form is most popular among competitive sports enthusiasts.

Its bottom differs from the bottom of old catamarans because it is quite sharp. internal corners(between the bottom and walls of the tunnel). This gives you extremely sharp turns/turns at high speeds with a very smooth and soft ride. However, at low speeds some ships with this body structure experience handling problems.

Double catamaran hull

This is a combination of a small keel bottom with two identical tunnels on either side of the central nacelle.

The performance data at the higher speed boundary is generally higher compared with the real body locust, but it is associated with the "rough" path in the turbulent water tank and the lower lifting capacity compared with the conventional V-bottom.

"3-body", arched design

These bodies usually have a keel bottom with additional side pads on both sides; Between the keel and the darkness there are two vaults.

Often these arches are more pronounced in the nose. The advantage of this case is greater stability, especially at rest. The downside is the uneven course with jumps in choppy water.

Flat bottom housing

The flat bottom of a boat from side to bottom without a keel is called a flat bottom.

The plane of intersection of the bottom with the side walls (sides) may have a so-called “bell”. The chimney can be rectangular, sharp (“solid”) or semicircular, rounded (“soft”).

pontoon

The pontoon design has a flat bottom that is supported by two or three pontoons, usually made of aluminum.

This design allows maximum use of the useful surface of the floating object. Pontoons simply move into the water at operating speed, but the front parts must be shaped accordingly.

Boat bottom shape

To achieve maximum speed, the bottom of the boat should be as straight as possible in the longitudinal axial direction from bow to stern for about the last 5 feet (1.5 m).

In addition, the angle between the bottom and the trench must be sharp enough to achieve maximum speed and reduce slipping.

The bottom is called "hollow" if it is concave in the longitudinal direction of the axis from bow to stern in side view. The concern detects greater drag at the stern (at the stern) and leads to a lowering of the bow (bow trim).

How to make a boat from boards with your own hands

This increases the wetted area and reduces the speed of the boat, but at the same time promotes gliding and reduces the tilt of the boat for the "dolphin" "Kozlenev" (rhythmic bounce). Often during boat construction, concavity is special.

However, concavity can be caused, for example, by improperly transporting the boat on a trailer or by insufficient storage if there is no support directly under the diameter.

The "rocking chair" is the exact opposite of "swaggering."

The bottom of the boat is convex in the longitudinal axial direction from bow to stern in the side view. Along the way, the convexity of the bottom may be a consequence of “goat”, “dolphinization”.

Concavity and convex is a multifaceted area and, especially important, in the area from the center to the rear (called the critical zone at the bottom) has a negative effect on the speed of the boat, often leading to a decrease in speed to a high performance boat, several kilometers per hour.

Installations with one or more motors

On single engine units, right hand drive units are almost always installed.

It is simply a gift of tradition, but nevertheless it persists with the practice of pleasure craft makers. In this case, the control panel is located on the right side of the boat to compensate for the roll caused by the correct rotation of the propeller.

This controls the steering cylinder in both directions when PLA or other propulsion system control the hydraulic system with trimming in the same way. Most ship manufacturers prefer to rotate the propeller "outside" the propeller in the opposite direction from center on both sides, in other words, turning the starboard PLA and the port PLC counterclockwise; while it is assumed that routing is, in general, although not very, an improvement.

In addition, this provides more balanced control in the power operation of only one of the two engines.

Many older people with dual outboards with boats use propellers that spin in the same direction. The disadvantages of such a system include an increase in steering torque at large angles, both up and down (on boats without power steering), as well as (for example) slight stern drift in right time, when the force of two boat propellers is very rough water” makes “the body on the surface and literally floats like air chambers.”