Fastening and installation of facade tiles. Choosing facade tiles for cladding a house

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Installation of facade tiles begins with the selection of sheathing fasteners. The type of fastener is selected depending on the surface to be covered. For wooden surfaces, self-tapping screws from 45 mm to 110 mm are used. For brick - dowel-nails from 80 mm to 140 mm (or anchors for slotted bricks), for houses made of foam concrete, use special “screw” dowels for foam blocks (diameter 14, length 80) for houses built using the “permanent formwork” technology, frame anchors from 90 mm to 152 mm are used.

For insulation, a block of 50x50 is used, and a board of 100x25 is used for lathing. To extend the service life of the throw and board, pre-treatment with an antiseptic composition is necessary, for example, “Senezh”, “Wood Doctor”, etc.

Walls can be covered with façade tiles with or without insulation. More often, due to climatic conditions, houses are insulated. To do this, install a 50x50 beam under the insulation. In order for the mats to fit tightly and there are no “cold bridges”, the distance between the bars should be slightly smaller size insulation (1-2 cm).

Can be used to provide thermal insulation different insulation materials. The most common option is mineral insulation, such as Rockwool, Isoroc, etc. With a recommended density of at least P40. The size of the mat depends on the manufacturer. (the most common are 500x1000 and 600x1200)

In order to protect mineral wool insulation from exposure environment, a wind-moisture-proof membrane film is used. It is attached to the block using construction stapler, staples of 8-10 mm are selected. The most commonly used membrane film is Izospan A, Stroizol A, etc.

Mounted on top of the film vertically and parallel to each other edged board 100x25, with a step corresponding to the selected tile model. The sheathing is secured with self-tapping screws from 45 mm to 100 mm.

Note: when forming a corner (Small Chip Stone or Corner elements overlapping the main tile), the 1st tile is cut and the distance between the first and second boards is reduced. The next step of the sheathing follows according to the table.

Finally, the moment comes to directly attach the tiles. Fastening is done using self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws 4.2x19 are used, galvanized with a sharp press washer, without a drill.

The installation of sheathing is divided into horizontal and vertical.

The following types are mounted horizontally:

Slate, Large Chip Stone, Small Chip Stone, Sandstone, Rock Formation, Stone Mosaic.

The following types are mounted on the vertical:

Combined, chipped chamfer, Riga brick, smooth brick, clinker, chipped brick, Konakovo brick, grated brick.

Since the façade tiles are attached mechanically, using self-tapping screws, its installation can be carried out in any weather and on any surface.

Installation is carried out in a certain order: from bottom to top and from the corner. The first tile in a row is secured with 4 self-tapping screws, each subsequent tile is inserted into the lock and secured with 2 self-tapping screws.

For three-row brick models (6 bricks per tile - Combined, Chip chamfer, Smooth brick, Old brick, Riga three-row brick) - To preserve the pattern of the brickwork, each subsequent row must be turned 180°. In order for the masonry to turn out neat, it is necessary to periodically check each new row by level.

If necessary, the tiles are sawn and polished using an angle grinder - “grinder”. If the fastening plates had to be sawed off, the tile is drilled into the seam and secured with a self-tapping screw, and the head is rubbed down.

A ventilated facade made of porcelain stoneware allows you to successfully solve a whole range of problems that arise when cladding the walls of buildings:

  • Protects against dampness - the ventilation gap makes it possible to create air circulation under the cladding, remove accumulated moisture, and prevent the occurrence of fungus;
  • gives the building a respectable appearance;
  • allows you to effectively insulate a building - timely removal of moisture does not allow the insulation to become damp and freeze.

In this article I want to look at the features and nuances of constructing a porcelain stoneware façade.

Design features of the ventilation façade

Ventilated facades made of porcelain stoneware consist of four components:

  • Frame, which is installed directly on the facade wall of the building;
  • Insulation and waterproofing;
  • Porcelain stoneware cladding;
  • Additional nodes and elements.

Frame

The frame is intended for fastening porcelain stoneware slabs to the walls of a building. It consists of a system of guide profiles and fasteners, installation is carried out on load-bearing wall using dowel nails or anchor bolts.

The profile for porcelain stoneware is made from of stainless steel or aluminum alloys, and comes in two types - horizontal and vertical.

Wall-mounted fasteners are a system of brackets, the installation of which is carried out by fastening to the wall and supporting frame. The special design of the brackets makes it possible to adjust the size of the gap between the wall and the porcelain stoneware. Thanks to this, on the one hand, it is possible to ventilate more efficiently inner space, and on the other hand, to level out unevenness of wall surfaces.

Insulation and waterproofing

The technology for installing a ventilated facade made of porcelain stoneware involves the creation of thermal insulation and waterproofing layers. The following materials are most often used for external insulation of a building:

  • Expanded polystyrene sheets;
  • Mineral wool slabs;
  • Polyurethane foam.

The table below provides comparative characteristics of the thermal conductivity of various thermal insulation and structural building materials.

Installation of the ventilated facade cake is carried out according to the following scheme:

  1. Internal vapor-waterproofing layer located between the concrete or brick surface and thermal insulation;
  2. Insulation layer;
  3. The outer layer of waterproofing laid on top of the insulation;
  4. An air gap used to ventilate the space under the facade;
  5. Porcelain stoneware cladding.

Decorative porcelain tiles

Porcelain tile is a composite material made from a mixture of clay, quartz, feldspar and, if necessary, various pigments. All components are thoroughly mixed, pressed and fired in high-temperature ovens.

Table 1. Comparative characteristics of porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles.

There are several types of porcelain tiles on sale:


Facades are most often installed using glazed tiles, due to their high aesthetic qualities; matte satin porcelain tiles are less commonly used.

The main difference between tiles for ventilated facades and tiles for interior work is the requirements for them. She must:

  • do not lose color saturation and brightness under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
  • be resistant to changes in temperature and humidity;
  • It is good to tolerate exposure to acidic, alkaline and other aggressive environments.
  • The linear dimensions and shape of the slabs can vary significantly. Facade porcelain tiles 600x600 mm are the most common option. It has an acceptable weight, and the equal length of the sides simplifies the marking and installation of frame guides.

    Table 2. Requirements for the quality of porcelain stoneware for ventilated facades.

    Additional nodes and elements

    Additional components include various sealing materials and additional elements: gaskets made of paronite or rubber for installation under fasteners, decorative inserts for sealing joints between tiles. Inserts can be made of aluminum or polymers - polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride, etc.

    Installation techniques

    There are two technologies for installing ventilated porcelain stoneware facades:

    1. Hidden fastening method;
    2. Installation using clamps.

    Hidden fastening of porcelain tiles

    Hidden fastening of the facade to the frame subsystem is carried out using anchor elements. The hidden mounting option allows you to get visual effect solid wall, without visible joints and seams.

    Several installation technologies can be used depending on the frame subsystem used. One option is to use agraph:


    Another option is to cut slots on the end part of the tile (either pointwise or along the entire end surface), and then use them to fasten the porcelain stoneware to the profile (see photo below):


    This facade fastening scheme makes it possible to obtain a surface with high decorative qualities and ventilate the interior space. At the same time, hidden mount Porcelain stoneware is very labor-intensive - installation time and total cost of work increases.

    Fastening using clasps

    Clasps are plates made of stainless steel or duralumin, equipped with curved “legs” into which they are inserted facing tiles. The clamps are secured to the frame using self-tapping screws or bolts.

    Because This technology is the most common (due to its relative simplicity compared to the “hidden” method). Let’s consider this particular method of finishing buildings with porcelain tiles.

    Installation of a ventilated facade

    Installation of porcelain stoneware on the facade open method is regulated by the provisions of SNiP No. 3-01-85 and is carried out in several stages:

    1. Preparing the wall surface;
    2. Installation of frame fasteners;
    3. Installation of thermal insulation layer and waterproofing;
    4. Assembly of the supporting frame;
    5. Installation of facing tiles.

    Preparing the wall

    First of all, you should assess the condition of the wall surface - it should be relatively flat, without obvious bumps and depressions. Minor differences from the vertical can be leveled out using the free movement of fasteners provided for by the design. Large defects will need to be corrected with plastering work.

    The next step is to mark the surface, which is applied depending on the façade design. The wall is marked for fasteners on which guide profiles will later be installed.

    The first marking method can be seen in the following video:

    The second marking method involves the use of laser levels that have both vertical and horizontal adjustments. Work begins from the very bottom of the wall: using a level, a starting line is drawn along the ground. In the same way, with a step equal to the height of the selected porcelain tile, the entire wall is marked with horizontal lines.

    The brackets must be positioned so that the joints of adjacent slabs fall in the middle of the profile.

    Installation of brackets

    The brackets should be mounted using a hammer drill and anchor bolts. Special attention when you should pay attention to the overhang of the bracket - it depends on the thickness of the insulation layer (see below). It is necessary that after installing the frame profiles and facing slabs, there should be a ventilation gap of 3-5 cm between the wall and the thermal insulation.

    To compensate for heat shrinkage (cycles of compression and expansion under the influence of temperature changes), gaskets made of paronite or dense rubber are installed between the brackets and the wall.

    Various options for mounting brackets manufactured by Crospan

    Installation of insulation and waterproofing

    After installing the fasteners, you can begin installing the vapor barrier and insulation. Isopan or other similar materials are used as a vapor barrier membrane - they allow excess moisture to be removed from the walls, while at the same time preventing it from passing through from the outside.

    A layer of insulation is laid on top of the vapor barrier. The thickness of the thermal insulation depends on the thermal conductivity of the material and on the minimum winter temperatures for a given region. Calculation required thickness The heat-protective layer is produced according to the following formula:

    R=δ/k, Where

    • R – required resistance for a given region;
    • δ – thickness of the insulation layer;
    • k is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the insulation.

    Indicators thermal resistance for various regions of the country are given in the provisions of SNiP No. 230199 on construction climatology, and are given below.

    The most often used for façade insulation are:

    • Minvata;
    • Expanded polystyrene;
    • Polyurethane foam.

    Mineral wool is supplied to the market in the form of rolls or slabs, which differ in density and thermal conductivity. It is attached to the wall using special plastic mushroom dowels with a wide head.

    Using mineral insulation(glass wool, slag wool, basalt slab) it should be remembered that they are very afraid of dampness.

    When mineral wool gets wet, it compacts and loses its thermal insulation qualities, which are not restored even after it dries, so the external waterproofing of the insulation should be carefully carried out.

    Expanded polystyrene (foam) sheets also have high thermal protection and can be mounted both on dowels and on adhesive solutions. They are laid on a supporting base in 2-3 layers so that the joints of the upper and lower layers do not coincide. To protect against the penetration of drafts, the seams are sealed with sealants.

    Polyurethane foam is applied to the wall using special foaming machines in which chemical components are mixed. The advantage of this method is the possibility of obtaining a monolithic seamless layer of thermal insulation. However, compared to mineral wool and polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam is quite expensive: the price is 1 sq.m. insulation can reach 500 - 800 rubles.

    According to SNiP standards, minimum thickness thermal insulation layer for various materials should be (without taking into account the thickness of load-bearing walls):

    • Mineral wool with a density of 50 kg/m 3 - for the Moscow region - 20 cm, Krasnodar - 15 cm, for Yakutsk - 35 cm;
    • Expanded polystyrene with a density of 100 kg/m - for the Moscow region - at least 15 cm, for the Urals, Far East and Southern Siberia - about 20 cm, for Northern Siberia - up to 25 cm;
    • Polyurethane with a density of 50 kg/m3. – for the Moscow region – about 8 cm, for the Urals and Southern Siberia – 10-12 cm, for the northern regions – 15-18 cm.

    Installation of frame profiles

    The installation of the frame should begin after the building is completely finished with thermal insulation. Initially, vertical posts are strengthened on the wall plane. They can be T-shaped, U-shaped or angular. Each type of rack is used for specific purposes - internal and external joints, lining corners, window and door openings.

    The main type of vertical profiles are T-shaped, used to create a single, flat plane on the surface of the building being coated. Vertical posts perform the main, load-bearing function. Fastening clamps are installed on them, which are used for fastening porcelain stoneware.

    As additional strength elements, in some cases, vertical posts are connected to each other by horizontal jumpers, giving additional rigidity to the entire structure.

    Cladding with porcelain stoneware slabs

    After installing the supporting frame, you can begin installing the facing slabs. Depending on the shape of the tile, the clamps are fastened to the frame profile in such a way that each slab fits exactly into the fastener tabs. The legs of the clamps are made elastic for better fixation of the tiles.

    Porcelain tiles should be attached to the wall in horizontal rows, starting from the very bottom of the wall. At corner joints and connections with door and window slopes, the slabs are cut to the required size using a grinder with a diamond wheel.

    Possible mistakes

    I would like to note a number typical mistakes arising during the work:


    I'll wrap it up here. I am always ready to listen to your wishes and recommendations in the comments.

    A fairly new facing material, in terms of performance indicators it belongs to one of the types. The tiles are made on the basis of cement with the addition of various fillers to change appearance and improving physical performance, there are gypsum options. On sale there is a huge selection of facade tiles with imitation brick or natural stone, clinker or with an original surface texture. The elements are fixed using already installed metal clamps; along the perimeter, the tiles are held together with a tongue-and-groove connection.

    Like every material, new facade tiles have not only pros, but also cons. We will try to give an objective description from the point of view of builders and consumers.

    Advantages of facade tiles with metal fasteners

    Durability, environmental friendliness, weather resistance, relatively light weight, ease of installation - all types of facade tiles have these qualities. The real advantage of the described material over others is that installation is carried out without the use of cement-sand mixtures directly on a wooden load-bearing sheathing. Due to the fact that lathing can be installed on walls made of all materials, the scope of use is expanding. The absence of “wet” technologies makes it possible to carry out work at any time of the year. Of course, if there is no precipitation. Wide choose in appearance it almost does not limit the possibilities of designers and architects to choose the style of facade walls. Another advantage is that installation is simplified and work is completed faster. There is no need to carefully level the load-bearing surfaces, grind seams, etc.

    Flaws

    Unfortunately, they exist, and they are quite significant. The first is that cut pieces of facade tiles significantly lose the reliability of their fastening. The fact is that the tiles are fixed in only one or two places with self-tapping screws to the clamps, and along the rest of the perimeter there is a tongue-and-groove connection. When adjusting the tile to size, you have to cut it on the sides (one, two or three). The tenons and grooves are cut off; in these planes, the fixation of the tiles to each other is completely absent. We will tell you how to minimize these consequences in the installation instructions, but we immediately note that they cannot be called ideal.

    The second is the strength of the upholstery with metal fastenings on wooden sheathing much lower than with glue. The glue is located over the entire surface of the tile and connects the facade walls with it into a single structure. Physical forces from the tiles are transferred to strong facade walls, which increases the mechanical strength of the cladding. Facade tiles with metal fastenings“sags” over the walls. As a result, only the tiles bear the load, and this significantly reduces the resistance of the finish to mechanical damage.

    For facade finishing frame house using facade tiles with fasteners is just a godsend

    The third drawback is that the tiles are fixed to wooden slats. Even thorough impregnation with modern antiseptics cannot protect them very much. a long period time. Lumber loses its original properties, fixation becomes unreliable, facade tiles begin to wobble. And this is the first sign of a violation of the integrity of the skin, which in the future can have dire consequences.

    What to look for when choosing

    The quality of finishing facades with tiles depends on two components: the professionalism of the builders and the integrity of the manufacturers. Facade tiles with metal fastening must fully comply with existing government standards regulations, technological processes cannot be violated.

    As for the appearance, everything is simpler - choose those options that will create the desired design style. But which ones technical nuances should you pay close attention?

    1. Linearity of surfaces. Place several tiles flat reverse side to each other. If there are gaps or wobbles, you have low-quality material in your hands, do not buy it.
    2. Connect two tiles into a castle. The tenon should fit into the groove with a little effort; it’s not bad if a click is heard at the moment of a tight fit. If there is a gap between the tenon and the groove or they fit very tightly, these are signs of poor quality workmanship.
    3. pay attention to strength of fixation of metal clamp with tiles, what sheet steel it is made of. The thickness of the steel must be at least 0.4 mm, the zinc coating must be uniform and without gaps. There should be no cracks in the areas where the metal is poured into the tile material. If the gluer is paper-like in thickness and there are cracks along the edges of its joint, then such products were produced by unscrupulous companies.

    Important! The price of tiles with metal fastening starts from 900 rubles/m2, which is significantly more expensive than ordinary cement analogues. For that kind of money, demand only high-quality materials. Along with flat elements, you should buy vertical and horizontal corners; the latter are used for finishing window and door openings. You should purchase a starting profile and screws.

    Currently facade tiles with metal fastenings are produced by many companies; each region of the country has its own leaders. We will bring short list verified manufacturers, this data will help you make the right decision.

    Table. The best manufacturers of tiles with metal fasteners.

    Company nameDescription
    GC "Global Group"Present on the building materials market since 2011, it has modern production equipment. Technological facilities are located in Yekaterinburg, supplies are carried out to all regions of the country.
    "PROFIST"Located in Pervouralsk, Sverdlovsk region, it has six branches in various regions, including the central one.
    "Kiriss façade"The company specializes only in the production of tiles, its production base is in the Moscow region, and has a branch in Tver.
    "Wall Materials Factory"Head office in Yekaterinburg, tile production is carried out according to modern technologies, step-by-step quality control of goods has been introduced.
    "Fastrot"It has been producing products since 2004, has a wide range of tiles for various purposes, from paving to facing of the highest quality.

    This, of course, is not a complete list of enterprises that have earned the respect of consumers. The manufacturing technology for this type of tile is quite simple, which allows many companies to produce high-quality products without large investments.

    Facade tiles with metal fasteners “Balkan stone”

    Facade tiles “Canyon”

    Prices for popular finishing facade tiles

    Wall facade tiles

    Technology for laying facade tiles with metal fasteners

    The tiles can be laid both with simultaneous insulation of facade walls (recommended option) and during overhaul buildings. We will consider the first installation method; they are the ones used most often. Current energy prices force homeowners to pay great attention to heat saving indicators. In addition, recent laws at the federal level require adherence to state standards to minimize heat losses.

    Important! You need to start work by planning your actions, and the technology of laying tiles using clamps requires a special approach.

    The distances between the tile clamps may not coincide with the dimensions of the insulation. This is an unpleasant situation. Before purchasing insulation materials, pay attention to their width. The fact is that you will have to attach a counter-lattice for the tiles to the lathing for the insulation. The width of the insulation starts from 60 cm; not all tiles have the same distances between the clamps, and this complicates the process of making lathing for fixing. If you cannot find suitable materials, then there are three options.

    1. The insulation boards will have to be cut in such a way that it is possible to fix the sheathing to the size of the tiles on the wooden planks between them. This is not a very successful method; the quality of insulation may decrease due to the appearance of cracks between the insulation and the slats. The fact is that making a perfectly even cut at home is very difficult. In addition, installation time increases and the amount of waste of expensive insulation increases.
    2. Lay the insulation not vertically, but horizontally, and make the sheathing for it in the same position. In this case, the slats for fixing the tiles are placed vertically. This solution is considered quite acceptable.
    3. The insulation slats are vertical, and the sheathing under the tiles is horizontal. And this solution to the problem does not cause any comments from professionals.

    What to do in each specific case depends on many factors; make a decision yourself or seek advice from experienced builders.

    Practical advice. If you are afraid of making a mistake with the marking of the sheathing for the tiles, then we recommend using boards approximately 10 cm wide and 2 cm thick instead of narrow slats. By the way, they also compensate for the inaccuracies of the tile itself. Different batches may have size deviations, and narrow slats do not allow them to be compensated; the position of the clamp may not coincide with the position of the slats.

    Once these problems are resolved, measurements can be taken and the quantities of materials can be determined. Material calculations are made in the usual way with a quantity reserve of 5-8%. Count it accurately linear meters vertical and horizontal angles. These architectural elements need to be sealed only with special factory-made additional elements; it is difficult to make them yourself. You will have to cut the tiles by hand, the joint angle will be open, and there is a high probability of gaps forming in these places during minor vibrations of the structure.

    The material cannot be considered new on the domestic construction market; it can be purchased from both domestic and foreign manufacturers. Clinker tiles for facades have the highest physical properties among all types of building materials. Read more in .

    To work you will need a grinder with diamond blade, drill, screwdriver, tape measure, hydraulic or laser level. It is better to make marks on the tiles with a felt-tip pen; on an uneven front surface, pencil lines are hardly noticeable. In addition, during sawing, dust from the disk makes them completely hidden - there is a high probability of getting a crooked cut. For example, let’s take the option of cladding a house with insulation. The insulation is made of pressed mineral wool and has water protection. All we have to do is install the vertical counter-lattice and mount the façade tiles with metal fasteners.

    Step 1. Mark the position of the frame slats. We have already mentioned that it is better to use boards instead of slats - the increase in costs is small, and you can work calmly. If the markings under façade panels does not require such precision (fastening holes are located along the entire length), then in the case of tiles, very high demands are placed on accuracy.

    Step 2. Start installing slats from the corners. It is better to attach a corner element and determine at what distance the first rail should be attached. Check its position not by plumb line - take measurements along the entire height. The walls of the house may have a slight slope and the distance from the corner will increase. And this will cause big problems during the installation of the tiles. Fix the counter batten slats to the sheathing slats with self-tapping screws or nails. Self-tapping screws are better; nails have an unpleasant feature: during a slight expansion/shrinkage of the wood, they are pulled out, which weakens the fastening force.

    Step 3. Stretch a rope between the outer slats and fasten all the remaining slats along it in the marked places. Install additional slats near window and door openings. In these places, problems will certainly arise during plating, the solution to which we will discuss below.

    Step 4. Hit the bottom one horizontal line, try on the starting profile using it. The protruding parts of the vertical sheathing should be trimmed. Using self-tapping screws along the line, secure the starting profile. If there are no holes in it, then pre-drill them. The starting profile can be aluminum or galvanized sheet iron coated with resistant powder paints to match the tiles. Make sure that the ends of the profile do not rest against the corner elements of the cladding and do not interfere with its precise installation. Check the horizontal position of the profile again.

    Step 5. Take the first corner piece and place it in the corner. Pay attention to what position it is in - it’s not too late to correct the inaccuracies. Using a self-tapping screw approximately 1.5 cm long, secure the element through the clamp hole to the rail.

    Step 6. Next, smooth flat tile elements are installed. Insert them into the tongue-and-groove joint until it stops; there should be no gaps between individual tiles (except in cases where they are made specifically for decorative purposes). Each tile is fixed with a clamp on the next strip.

    Continue installing the cladding in the same way until there is room for two elements along the length of the opposite corner of the building.

    Step 7 Install the second corner element and secure it.

    Step 8 Now you need to do the most difficult work - accurately take the dimensions of the free area and cut off part of the tile according to them. We have already mentioned above that during cutting, the tongue-and-groove connection is removed, and the remaining parts of the tile are not securely fixed. Take dimensions with maximum accuracy; when cutting, you need to use a diamond disc for concrete (it has special slots for removing dust).

    Diamond blade for concrete Baumesser Turbo Universal 230×22.2

    Practical advice for cutting tiles.

    1. When cutting, it is much more expedient to make a small margin in size, and then accurately adjust it with constant fitting. We advise those who do not have solid experience in performing this type of work to do this.
    2. When marking, the lines will have to be applied from the front side, and the tile, depending on the type, may have a very uneven surface. To minimize the likelihood of errors, make at least three equally spaced marker points along the length of the tile, and then connect them with one line. If they do not lie at the same distance from the edges, then check where there are irregularities.
    3. Do not cut the tiles yourself; have an assistant hold them. Take special care in the corners - this is where chips most often appear.
    4. The disk is round, due to its configuration it is difficult to adjoin the lines of a right angle when cutting. Work carefully, do not go beyond the permissible length in these places, otherwise a noticeable gap will remain. It’s better to carefully break off the remaining few millimeters of the tile, and then carefully clean the right angle with the edge of the disk. In the same way, the dimensions of length and width are adjusted by the edge of the disk. This takes a lot of time, but with the advent of practical experience the process will noticeably speed up.

    Prices for angle grinders (grinders)

    Angle grinders (grinders)

    Step 9 In most cases, the cut area has only one fixation unit - a spike on the upper plane. This is not enough for complete reliability. We recommend additionally fixing the tiles to wooden slats directly from the front surface. It is better to make holes in the seams, if there are none design features material, then anywhere. The main thing is that it fits into the wooden slats. Screw a long self-tapping screw into the hole made; it is advisable to use rubber or plastic washers of the appropriate diameter. Then the hole is sealed with sealant matching the color of the tile and becomes almost invisible.

    Practical advice. There is a way to make the hole completely invisible. To do this you need to collect a little fine crumbs remaining after cutting the tiles and carefully press into the top surface of the sealant. In this case, the sealant must be fresh. Then use a small brush to carefully level the surface of the tile. This method can only be used if the tiles are the same color throughout their entire thickness. If only its surface is painted, then you will have to select the color of a purchased sealant or customize it yourself using mineral dyes.

    Make the final decision on additional fixation yourself on site, taking into account all the features of the cladding. If you are sure that the cut tiles will sit firmly in place, then there is no need to drill anything. After installing the top row, check the reliability with your hands, press, shake, etc.

    Step 9 In window and doorways The upper part of the tile is cut to size, taking into account the slope of the drain. Next, proceed to finishing the slopes, you need to use special ready-made corners, they are sold complete with tiles. This is the most difficult section of the facades. Each corner must be adjusted to the width of the slopes. Do the work very carefully, the ends of all corners should lie on the same line and rest against the frame of the window or door. Minor gaps will then be sealed with sealant. In the upper part, these corners are fixed using clamps, and for the side corners you will have to drill holes for separate screws. The holes, of course, are subsequently sealed.

    Practical advice. If you have a whole number of tiles laid across the width of the opening, great, the architectural element can be left without additional finishing. And if the tiles had to be cut, then it is better to attach platbands to the window openings in the future. There are a huge variety of the latter on sale; choose the ones that suit you based on type, weight, and method of attachment.

    The result of building cladding - before and after

    Practitioners recommend finishing the basement parts of façade walls using the same algorithm. Reputable manufacturers produce a full set of tiles for various purposes, including basement tiles. If the blind area of ​​the house is located horizontally, then the algorithm for finishing the base is no different from that described above. If there is a slope, then the first row of tiles along the entire length of the house must be cut at an angle, which makes the work much more complicated.

    Video - Installation of tiles with metal fasteners

    Our company’s specialists perform a full range of façade works in Moscow and the Moscow region. Experienced craftsmen They will install facade tiles within a clearly defined time frame; the cost of work per square meter starts from 1,300 rubles.

    Quick calculation

    Fixed price estimate

    Guarantee

    Site visit – free of charge

    TechnoNIKOL Hauberk facade tiles are ideal for cladding buildings of any purpose. Thanks to the construction of fiberglass treated with bitumen and natural basalt chips, the material demonstrates excellent strength, resistance to climatic and biological influences and durability.

    Installation price of TechnoNIKOL facade tiles Hauberk

    Name

    Unit

    Price

    Subsystem with fasteners

    Primer

    Installation of facade tiles2

    m2

    Laying insulation

    Tiling slopes

    Tiling arches

    Installation of ebb tides

    Installation of ebb and flow on the plinth

    Installing a canopy using climbers

    Laying the border

    Mosaic laying

    Grouting joints

    Sawing down the ends of the tiles at an angle of 45°

    Epoxy grout

    Basic prices shown. The final cost of installing facade tiles is calculated individually and depends on a number of factors: total area, complexity architectural forms, altitude, etc. You can order a calculation by phone or by leaving a request on the website.

    Stages of installation of facade tiles

    1. Preparatory work. The surface of the facade is inspected for defects, and minor repairs are made if necessary. Can act as a leveling base OSB boards or ordinary plywood with a thickness of at least 9 mm. Marking lines are drawn.
    2. Installation of basement drip. If there is a plinth, it is strongly recommended to install a drip tray.
    3. Installation of facade tiles TECHNONICOL HAUBERK. Work begins from the corner, retreating 5-10 mm. The petals of the tiles intended for the first row are trimmed. Each subsequent row is laid in a checkerboard pattern according to the principle of brickwork.
    4. Device internal corners. The tile closest to the corner is cut taking into account the required distance to the corner edge of 5-10 mm. To install internal corners, it is optimal to use TechnoNIKOL Hauberk metal corners, which are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws.
    5. Installation of openings. The tile closest to the opening is cut with a roofing knife, and after its installation the casing is laid. Upon completion of the work, the sill and window casing are installed.

    You can order installation of TECHNONICOL HAUBERK facade tiles by phone or by leaving a request on the website. We have been producing facade work of any complexity for more than 10 years and guarantee high quality.

    Finishing the facade of a building is an important stage construction work. The “face of the house” must fit harmoniously into the surrounding buildings, so the choice of materials for exterior finishing should be carefully considered. There are currently a lot of methods for cladding external walls, one of them is ceramic tile. The article will discuss the technology of laying ceramic facade tiles.

    Differences from tiles for interior work

    In almost all apartments and houses, durable and waterproof ceramics are used to decorate bathrooms and kitchens. Facade tiles differ from them mainly in the method of fastening and the size of the individual part.

    • For outdoor work, products with large dimensions are used. Fastening is carried out using installation on the frame, which allows for additional insulation outer wall. For small pieces, gluing is allowed.

    • Familiar tiles for interior decoration most often has a smooth front surface. In turn, the outer cladding can imitate a variety of natural materials, such as brick, marble, natural stone.

    Scope of application of ceramic facing tiles

    Due to its characteristics, ceramic tiles have become widespread in:

    • restoration of facades of old buildings;
    • exterior finishing for new construction;
    • lining of stoves and fireplaces;
    • imitation brick and natural stone;
    • preventing the appearance of mold and mildew in swimming pools.

    Advantages of ceramic facade tiles

    When talking about the advantages, it is most logical to compare ceramic tiles with another equally common material - facing bricks.

    • The facing brick forms a layer 120 millimeters thick, the tiles are significantly thinner. This allows you to reduce the load on the foundation, and there is no need to widen it to support the decorative finish.
    • Variations in brick finishing can only be in color. Exists facing brick with small textural delights, but its cost is higher. Ceramic tiles give the customer room for imagination, the design of the facade is practically unlimited.

    • Easy to use. It is much easier to remove dirt from a tiled wall.
    • High resistance to moisture and temperature changes.
    • Can be used both in low-rise construction, and in high altitude, thanks to increased resistance to wind loads and a high degree of protection of the wall from adverse weather conditions.
    • Tiles, like bricks, has a wide temperature range of use. It is equally suitable for harsh northern regions and hot deserts. For example, a common finishing material is vinyl siding begins to bend and change its shape at temperatures above +50 degrees Celsius.
    • Resistance to fire and biological influences. Mold, mildew and other microorganisms harmful to humans do not appear.

    Disadvantages of ceramic facade tiles

    Before choosing a finish, you also need to find out its unpleasant sides and take timely measures to mitigate them.

    • Most often buyers are put off high price , but it is worth remembering that these are one-time costs. The façade will not require repair for decades, just cleaning it from dirt and dust is enough.
    • Facing does not allow moisture to pass in both directions, both outside and inside. To remove condensation from the insulation, there is a need for an air-ventilated layer. It represents a gap of 10 centimeters between the thermal insulation layer and the finish. The volume of the interlayer should not be closed, but have a connection with the outside air, otherwise its construction is meaningless.
    • Ceramic tiles certainly weigh less bricks, but anyway refers to massive finishing materials . This must be taken into account when cladding buildings made of lightweight materials, for example, frame ones.

    Brick-like ceramic facade tiles will be an excellent alternative natural stone when facing the base. Being lighter in weight, it looks no less beautiful in appearance.

    Types of ceramic tiles

    Depending on the covering layer, matte and glossy ceramic tiles are distinguished. Glossy coated thin layer glass, thanks to which it begins to shine. Matte, on the contrary, is characterized by a rough surface. For facade work, matte tiles are preferable, as they will give the building a more presentable appearance. But in any case, it is important to choose GOST ceramic facade tiles, which guarantees good quality of the product.

    Based on the manufacturing method, façade coverings are divided into:

    • porcelain stoneware Tiles can be produced in various sizes. For production, several types of clay, feldspar, quartz and pigments are used to give color. First, the components are pressed and then fired;

    • clinker. After passing through the mold, the material is subjected to heat treatment. Thanks to the maximum temperatures, strong and durable tiles emerge from the kiln. Production by pressing is possible;
    • cotto. Red clay is used as the starting material. Just like clinker, it is passed through a mold and fired. It is possible to obtain products in yellow, brown and pink shades;
    • unglazed facade tiles. It is least often used in cladding. This is due to the fact that she does not have decorative surface. But the natural terracotta color of clay attracts adherents of everything natural. When facing a house in combination with wooden lining or stone, it looks most advantageous. Its main disadvantage is that for cleaning you only need to use special cleaning products.

    Technical characteristics of ceramic facade tiles

    The specified properties of ceramic tiles relate to physical and operational characteristics. To calculate the cost of work, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical side of the issue.

    The main indicators include:

    • thickness;
    • shape;
    • consumption per square meter of area.

    The thicker the material, the higher its price, but the better the protection against negative impacts. external influences. Before purchasing, you will need to determine the area of ​​the surface to be coated and calculate the amount of material.

    Tools for work

    When installing tiles, the worker will need tools to cut them, since it is not always possible to exactly match the number of products to the surface being tiled. To do this, use one of the devices:

    • roller or electric tile cutter;
    • manual tile cutter;
    • tile cutters;
    • hacksaw with diamond wire;
    • Bulgarian;
    • wire cutters;
    • hole saw.

    The necessary control and measuring instruments include:

    • roulette;
    • building level and plumb line;
    • pencil for marking.

    Other devices and materials depend on the type of fastening. When attached to adhesive composition you will need:

    • special tile adhesive;
    • notched trowel for applying it;
    • container for diluting the solution;
    • spatula;
    • façade spatula;
    • crosses and corners for high-quality styling.

    When constructing the frame of a ventilated facade, it is necessary to prepare:

    • horizontal rack profiles, most often metal;
    • fastening materials and tools;
    • waterproofing;
    • necessary for insulation thermal insulation material and wind protection.

    Technology for laying ceramic facade tiles

    For small-piece materials In the absence of insulation, it is not necessary to build a frame. You can use the same technology as for interior work.

    • First, the surface to be treated is cleaned of dust and dirt. The quality of fixing the tiles depends on the evenness of the base, so you need to apply a layer of plaster, primer and concrete contact, which contains sand to increase the adhesion of the materials to each other.
    • To avoid individual parts falling off, do not skimp on the solution. Usage cement-sand mixture not recommended as it will not guarantee durability. It is best to purchase adhesive for tile work that contains polymer components. Thanks to them, the screed quickly sets and is resistant to moisture and temperature changes.

    • On average, one bag of glue for 400-500 rubles is enough to cover 7-8 m2 of surface. To reduce costs, you can produce glue solution on one's own. The ratio of cement and sand is 1:3. To improve the characteristics, plasticizers are added to the composition, which are sold in liquid form. For 100 kg of cement you will need 1 liter of plasticizer, which costs 100-150 rubles.
    • Installation of tiles begins with the installation of a starting profile around the perimeter of the building. It is fixed from below and provides support for the overlying rows of tiles. The cladding parts are first secured in the corners, and then the entire row is completed. To ensure the same thickness of the joints, special plastic crosses are used.
    • After completing the top row, the crosses are removed and the joints are grouted. The result should be a neat, flat surface.

    Installing tiles on the frame

    This method is used for large tiles. It allows for additional work on façade insulation. The most important stage of work in this case is the assembly of the frame. It takes the main load from the cladding. Ideally, a set of load-bearing profiles is purchased from one manufacturer.

    • Before installing the supporting structure, markings are made for the starting profile and brackets. After this, a waterproofing layer is applied. For example, when using a membrane, it is glued over the brackets, providing slots for them.
    • The next step is installation vertical racks. If necessary, insulation is placed between them, which is rigidly fixed with glue and plastic dowels. To prevent the insulation from sagging, it is supported on a metal profile.

    • If insulation is carried out, then before installing the transverse load-bearing profile, windproof film is laid. All that remains is to hang the facing layer, and the work is finished.

    • The fixation depends on the type of ceramic tile and the manufacturer. For example, porcelain stoneware is secured with metal clamps. Some manufacturers include mounting hardware, while in other cases the tiles are made with holes for special screws.

    Facade ceramic tiles from the manufacturer

    The tiles are produced by both domestic and foreign companies. Depending on the raw materials, different countries become leaders in production.

    Porcelain tiles

    • The leaders can be called Italy and Spain. The main manufacturers in this segment are Kerama Marazzi, Keranit, Italon, Estima and Hitom. Most materials are manufactured in Russia using foreign equipment. The quality of such tiles is not inferior to those produced directly in Italian factories. Domestic products are in demand among buyers; they guarantee a long service life and excellent performance characteristics.
    • The materials from these companies allow finishing on wood, concrete, brick, stone, and marble. Prices for ceramic facade tiles vary from 600-800 rubles per square meter.

    Clinker

    • The clinker tile market is represented mainly by Germany. In the production of materials for external cladding, Korzilius, FeldhausKlinker, ABC Klinkergruppe, Ströher are specified. The location of the main suppliers is determined by deposits of clay suitable for manufacturing. In Russia, production is concentrated in the Leningrad region.

    • Average prices for products are in the range of 750-1500 rubles/m2. Many manufacturers guarantee a high service life - from 25 years.

    Cotto

    • Cotto is less known material than the previous two. The production of these tiles is carried out by leading suppliers. On Russian market Cotto is supplied by Keramin (Belarus), DelConca (Italy), Cir&Serenissima (Italy), Cersanit and many others.
    • The cost in this case is almost the same as that of clinker and porcelain stoneware. It is worth noting that the high price is fully compensated for during the operation of the building.

    Ceramic tiles for facade cladding will provide reliable protection external walls from atmospheric phenomena unfavorable for the building. In addition, it will give the facade unique look, which will persist for several decades. All types of ceramics in this case have excellent characteristics.

    When choosing a finishing material, you should not save, since everyone knows the phrase: “the miser pays twice.” Insufficient quality of the material or carelessness when performing work can render not only the facing layer unusable, but also bearing structures. Repairing the external walls of a building is a technically complex and very expensive process, which can only be avoided with a responsible attitude towards the construction and finishing process.

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