Multilayer concrete floor on the ground: construction features. How to make the right pie of floors on the ground with high-quality insulation Layer pie of a poured concrete floor on the ground

The ground floor in a private house will be no worse than others only if correct device his "pie". Essentially, he's like iron concrete slab floors made directly on the construction site. But in order for the floor to serve for a long time, it is necessary to fulfill a number of conditions, which we will discuss in this material.

Moisture protection

Most experts, as the main condition for installing a floor on the ground, point to the need to lay groundwater deeper than two meters from the level of the bottom layer of his pie. Of course, at such a depth there are no aquifers, but we are talking about perched water, or sedimentary water, which, due to the characteristics of the soil, did not have time to seep through the filter layer to the water-resistant layers. It is possible (and necessary) to combat the effects of sedimentary waters and perched water using a set of measures:

1. Waterproofing the foundation strip. The simplest form- coating insulation, more reliable way- adhesive insulation. And if you add clay castle, then this will reduce the load on waterproofing materials and will increase their service life.
2. Drainage. To help excess moisture “leave” from the upper layers of soil adjacent to the foundation, you need to make several “punctures” (wells) to a depth of 4-5 m. Even more effective option, when these wells are connected by trenches with a depth below the heel of the foundation and drainage pipes laid at the bottom.
3. Blind area. If the type of waterproofing and the need for drainage are determined by the type of soil and climatic conditions, then the blind area is a mandatory water protection measure. The width of the blind area depends on the type of soil, and the type of storm drain depends on the amount of precipitation.

But not only “external” sedimentary waters can affect the ground floor. Thanks to capillary rise, there is also the effect of moisture “from below”. This rise is partially prevented by compacting the top layer of the bottom of the “pie” trough. Particularly effective sealing for clay soils- to some extent, this is akin to creating a clay castle.

1. Drainage. 2. Blind area. 3. Foundation. 4. Wall. 5. Multi-layer cake of concrete floor on the ground

A clay castle will completely protect against the penetration of soil moisture to the base of the floor, that is, filling a layer of clay and compacting it to the state of a water-resistant layer, however, pouring a crushed stone-sand cushion at the bottom of the trough will interrupt the capillary rise of water.

Preparing the base

In cross-section, the floor on the ground is a multi-layer “pie” with a finishing coating as the top layer. To determine the base level, take the threshold as a reference point front door. And the thickness of each layer is subtracted from it.

The zero calculation scheme looks like this:

• height of the entrance door threshold (no more than 2.5 cm);
• thickness of the finished floor covering;
• thickness of soundproofing or noise-absorbing substrates (if provided for by the project);
• screed;
• concrete preparation;
• sand pillow;
• crushed stone base;
• clay castle.

The total thickness of the separating layer (geomembrane film between sand and concrete preparation) and roll waterproofing under the screed is insignificant and does not affect the level of the base of the floor on the ground.

1. Floor covering. 2. Reinforced screed. 3. A layer of insulation. 4. Concrete preparation. 5. Sand cushion. 6. Crushed stone preparation. 7. Clay castle. 8. Mother soil

After the soil is selected to the calculated “zero”, the bottom is compacted and the level is checked. The clearance under a two-meter rail should be no more than 1.5 cm.

To improve the waterproofing of the base, you can make a clay castle at the bottom of the trough. If for adobe floors a thickness of 8-12 cm is recommended, then here they are limited to a layer of compacted clay of 5-6 cm.

For soils with low design resistance (for example, subsidence and fill soils, silty sandy loams and light loams), backfilling is required crushed stone base 10-15 cm thick. It is performed by sequentially pouring and compacting two layers of crushed stone of different fractions: first medium (40-70 mm), and then fine (5-10 mm) as a wedge.

You can replace gravel with bulk thermal insulation by combining two layers at the same time

The next layer, at least 10 cm thick, is required for any type of soil. This is a cushion made of sand, which is compacted when moistened. The surface of the sand must be leveled so that the clearance to the attached three-meter strip is no more than 10 mm.

A layer of polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is laid on top of the sand. The film strips should overlap each other by 10-15 cm and overlap the walls, moreover, above the level of the finished floor. The main purpose of the film is to provide conditions for proper hydration of concrete (prevent water from the solution from escaping into the sand), therefore there are not many requirements for its strength and quality other than integrity.

Pouring concrete preparation

The footing itself is not taken into account when calculating bearing loads floor, so it is not reinforced and is made of lean concrete, in which the percentage of cement is less than usual due to a doubling of the proportion of one of the fillers (usually crushed stone). The thickness of the footing lies within 7-8 cm, and its main advantages are workability and the ability to create even and solid foundation for insulation.

After rough screed will be poured and leveled, it is given time to gain 70% of its design strength (as for ordinary concrete). To prevent the surface from drying out, it is covered with burlap, which is periodically moistened.

Without the use of hardening accelerators, this takes a week, with the use - three days.

Then they begin to arrange the top layer - the screed.

Reinforcement

A concrete floor on the ground can be considered as a screed on an unstable foundation. Therefore, its reinforcement is mandatory to prevent destruction as a result of movement or subsidence of the soil, as well as in the case of using bulk or sheet insulation.

On the other hand, this is not a slab foundation, which is subject to high loads. This means that for a floor on the ground, a concrete thickness of 20-25 cm and a double reinforced belt with a reinforcement diameter of 10 mm or more are not needed.

Comparison with a floor slab is also not very correct. For example, the most common Khrushchev project (series 464) uses a slab 4.33 m long, 10 cm thick with one layer of reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm. And it rests on its edges, and the concrete floor of a private house lies on a prepared foundation and experiences much lower fracture loads. Therefore, these dimensions can be considered limiting for office premises where heavy equipment, such as a hot tub or stove, is located.

For residential premises, the load is less and for reinforcing the floor on the ground, a road mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm and a rod diameter of no more than 5-6 mm is sufficient, and for such “heavy objects” as a fireplace or large aquarium, you can make a separate foundation.

So, in cross-section, the ground floor itself is a sandwich, the lower part of which is a concrete preparation (concrete base or rough screed), in the middle there is a layer of waterproofing and insulation, and on top there is a reinforced screed.

Screed device

For floors on the ground in a private house, waterproofing is required. It is carried out using roll materials impregnated with bitumen. The sequence of work is standard: a bitumen primer is applied to the cleaned surface, two layers of insulation panels are laid with hot welding seams and exit to the walls above the thickness of the screed.

It is better to carry out insulation with polystyrene foam or its extrusion modification. The second option is preferable, since EPS has high strength and very low water absorption.

To obtain maximum effect, the insulation must be laid on top of the waterproofing in two layers, moving them relative to each other so that the seams do not coincide either in the longitudinal or transverse direction. This will prevent the appearance of cold bridges. In each row, the sheets should be tightly fitted at the ends, and the joints should be treated with glue.

It is also necessary to insulate the base throughout the entire thickness of the screed. In addition, the insulation around the perimeter of the screed will act as a damper. A road mesh is installed on top of the insulation. It should be approximately in the middle of the screed, so it is placed on special stands.

Stripes or grid cards should overlap two cells, and they are connected to each other using wire. Cement-sand mixture pour over the entire floor area in one go or without long breaks between portions. Minimum thickness screeds in residential premises - 50 mm.

If leveling the surface with plywood or self-leveling floors (self-leveling mixture) is not provided, then it is necessary to ensure that the level is kept as high as possible.

After the screed reaches its design strength, proceed to the rest. finishing works. And the finishing floor covering is laid in last resort when own relative humidity the screed will meet the requirements of the specific material (for example, for a laminate it should be less than 2.5%).

When planning to make a heated floor in a house on the ground, it is advisable to make the structure in two stages: first pour a rough screed onto the lower layers, and only after it has matured, lay all the other layers on it.

The fact is that the soil and, accordingly, all the layers above it can sag. Even if the soil is compacted, even if it is compacted, there will be movement. He lay simply, without any load. If you lay a heated floor pie on top, and it weighs a lot, subsidence will begin and cracks will appear. It may even tear the elements of the heated floor. Then all the money will be thrown away. That’s why experts advise first making a subfloor according to all the rules, and then laying a water floor on top. It's much more reliable this way.

Yes, many have a heated floor on the ground without a screed, and nothing sags. But not for everyone and not always. So think carefully. A warm concrete floor on the ground will be more reliable with a rough screed. If you still decide to do without this layer, install at least two reinforcing frames: the first under the heat insulator, and the second in the screed. Then, with careful compaction, everything can stand quite well.

First of all, we determine the level to which the soil needs to be removed. The soil must be removed. If the layer of humus or plant residues is not removed, they will begin to decompose and “smell.” Therefore, whether you do a subfloor or not, you still need to remove everything unnecessary. Moreover, the fertile layer is usually the loosest, and it will definitely settle and can pull all the layers above it with it. The underlying rocks are denser, firstly because they experience greater loads, and secondly, because there are fewer living creatures and microorganisms living there.

The entire pie of a heated floor on the ground can take 20 cm or more (in some regions - much more). Therefore, you need to start marking with zero level- where your finished floor will be located. You mark it, and then consider how much you need to go deeper. It is advisable to mark the level of each layer: then it will be easier to navigate.

The correct design of a heated floor on the ground is as follows:

• Take off fertile soil, remove all debris and stones. Level and compact the remaining soil. This must be done very carefully and verified using a level. This is the basis for all subsequent materials.
• A layer of compacted sand (level). Any sand can be used for filling. The main thing is to compact it well and level it again.
• A layer of expanded clay or crushed stone (crushed stone is preferable due to lower thermal conductivity). Fraction - small or medium. We compact it for a long time and persistently until it becomes almost a monolith.
• Pre-screed. There are two options:
  • Spill rubble and sand liquid solution(sand + cement in proportion 2:1).
  • Pour in the rough screed. The desired thickness of this layer is 5-7 cm. And for reliability, lay a reinforcing mesh made of 3 mm metal wire, with a cell of 10*10 cm. This subfloor is more reliable. It will withstand significant loads.
• After everything has set and the concrete has hardened, a layer of waterproofing is laid. If the soil is dry, this is usually polyethylene film, preferably 200 mn in two layers.
• Expanded polystyrene boards (glue the joints with tape so that the solution does not flow).
• A layer of metallized waterproofing (not foil, but metallized).
• The mounting system for the heated floor and the heating tubes, cables, etc.
• Heated floor screed, preferably reinforced.

The thickness of all layers of the underfloor heating layer on the ground depends on the region: the colder, the greater. In the south it can be 2-5 cm, but the further north you go, the more massive the layers are required. Each of them is well compacted and leveled. You can use manual tampers, but mechanical ones are much more effective.

Particular attention should be paid to the heat insulator. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene in slabs, its density not lower than 35 kg/m 3. For northern regions it can be 10 cm or more. If the thickness of the thermal insulation is large (extruded polystyrene foam), it is advisable to use two layers of slabs. And lay them so that the seams of the bottom layer overlap the slab lying on top. Tape the joints of each layer with tape.

To protect against dampness, do not forget to carry out waterproofing works with a foundation. It is also important not to forget to isolate the foundation from the entire heated floor structure. You need to put the same polystyrene foam in slabs around the perimeter. In general, the idea for hydro- and thermal insulation is this: to reduce heat loss, you need to insulate your floor from everything except the air in the room. Then the heating will be economical and the rooms will be warm.

Choice of thermal insulation - key moment in the organization of heated floors

Process technology at high groundwater levels

If groundwater is located high, correct sequence layers aren't everything. We need to drain the water somehow.

If the depth of laying the heated floor layers is lower than the ground water level, drainage is necessary. For it, at least 30 cm below the required level, we make a water drainage system. It is advisable to pour river sand, but such volumes cost a lot, so you can use other rocks, but not peat or black soil. As an option - excavated soil mixed with crushed stone.

When laying thermal insulation boards their joints need to be taped to prevent the solution from leaking into the cracks

The selected material is poured in layers of 10 cm, each of which is compacted and spilled with water. There are usually three layers, but more are possible. We lay a layer of geotextile on compacted sand or soil with crushed stone. This modern material, which will allow water to pass down and prevent mixing different materials. It is not damaged by insects and animals and has high tensile strength. Also, geotextiles additionally level out the mechanical loads that the floor will experience.

At the same stage, you need to simultaneously take care of the hydro- and thermal insulation of the floor from the foundation. Can be used for these purposes bitumen mastic or other modern and reliable waterproofing materials and impregnations. And the thermal insulation is standard: the inner perimeter of the foundation is lined with polystyrene foam slabs.

Then there are layers of sand and crushed stone, and a rough screed is poured onto them. In this case, it is not advisable to spill liquid cement-sand mixture. A rough screed is needed for reliability. After it has dried, a layer of waterproofing should be applied. At high level groundwater, it is better to use not polyethylene, but built-up waterproofing or polymer membranes. They are more reliable, although they are more expensive.

Next, all the layers, as recommended earlier: a heat insulator, a water barrier with a metallized coating, and fasteners with (or, for example). All this is covered with a metal reinforcing mesh and filled with another layer of mortar. And then - depending on the one used.

Results

Warm floors in a house on the ground - quite complex design. In order for it to be reliable, a rough screed is necessary. If for some reason it is not possible to make a screed, you can, as a last resort, get by by compacting the layers.

Most developers, when choosing a ground floor floor design, consider two options. The first is reinforced concrete slabs.

Second - wooden beams(lags). Many people have no idea that it is possible to make a high-quality and inexpensive floor on the ground.

Meanwhile, this design cannot be called new. It began to be used after its invention artificial stone called concrete.

We will talk about what a floor covering on bulk soil is, what its pros and cons are, in this article.

At its core, a ground floor is a “cushion” of small crushed stone or expanded clay, on which lies a reinforced slab of monolithic concrete. Ballast bedding performs two tasks:

• raises the level of coverage to a given height;
• transfers the weight of the structure to the ground.

The floor is protected from soil moisture and heat loss by insulation laid on a layer of waterproofing.

The load-bearing basis of such a coating is a layer of soil. Therefore, the main risk factors when installing a floor on the ground in a private house are frost heaving and moisture. The first threat is blocked by insulating the foundation base from the outside with sheet foam. It cuts off the cold bridge that causes water to freeze.

It should be noted that when permanent residence in the house, the temperature of the soil underneath never drops below zero degrees. If the building is empty in winter, then the forces of frost heaving can cause cracks in concrete screed and deform it. In this case, you cannot do without insulating the base.

Protection from soil moisture is a relatively simple measure only when the groundwater level is low (2-3 meters). On raw and marshy areas It is better to refuse the installation of such a coating. The cost of waterproofing and strengthening the foundation in this case increases significantly.

For piles and columnar foundations slab on the ground - no The best decision. In this case, the cost of protecting the bedding from frost is higher than when using a foundation “tape”.

Construction technology

There are two ways to install floors on the ground:

• For concrete preparation;
• Without a rough layer of concrete directly onto the compacted base (pillow).

The first method is rarely used today. It was developed at a time when roofing felt was used to protect floors from moisture. To glue it, a layer of concrete preparation (subfloor) was made.

The second option is simpler and cheaper. Modern waterproofing materials can be laid directly on the ballast pad without sticking to a solid base.

The process of installing a concrete floor on the ground begins with pouring the underlying layer. Before this, the installation of water supply and sewerage networks must be completed.

For backfilling, you can use any well-compacted soil. Fine crushed stone (fraction 5-10 mm), coarse river sand or sand-gravel mixture are suitable for this. The pillow is poured in layers of 15 cm, spilling each with water and compacting with a manual or mechanical tamper.

Compacting the bedding with a vibrating rammer

To improve thermal insulation top level pillows can be made from expanded clay gravel(10 cm). The total thickness of the ballast “pie” should be in the range from 30 to 40 cm.

Film waterproofing laid under the insulation needs to be protected from damage by sharp gravel and pressing through expanded clay. Therefore, the backfill is completed with a 5-centimeter layer of compacted sand. The thickness of the film laid on the ground must be at least 0.4 mm.

When laying film insulation, its strips are spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, fixing them with construction tape. The edges are let onto the masonry to a height equal to the total thickness of the insulation, concrete screed and finishing coating. A thermal gap 2-3 cm wide is left between the structural “pie” of the floor and the walls and partitions. It is filled with scraps of polyethylene foam or special thermal tape.

To insulate the base, you can use EPS (extruded polystyrene foam), sawdust concrete or perlite concrete. Often, waterproofing is not laid under foam plastic, since it practically does not absorb moisture. It is covered with a polymer film on top. It protects the insulation from the destructive effects of the alkaline environment of the cement mortar.

Under lightweight concrete on sawdust and perlite, a plastic film is needed. The thickness of the listed heat insulators is not the same. For XPS it is 50 mm. The layer of sawdust and perlite concrete should be at least 10 cm.

Having laid the thermal insulation, a concrete screed is made on its surface using fine-grained filler (fraction 5-10 mm, thickness 10 cm). The work is carried out in two stages. First, pour a layer 5 cm thick and lay it on it steel mesh(cell 10x10 cm, wire diameter 3-4 mm). After this, the thickness of the screed is adjusted to the design level, determined by calculation of the expected loads. Recommended concrete class B12.5.

That's how they get it the right pie floors on the ground with low soil water levels. Rough concrete preparation for rigid insulation is not done. There is no real benefit from it, but an increase in the cost of 1m2 finished design very noticeable.

Installing a heating system (warm floor) changes the technology and sequence of work. In this case, first a rough concrete preparation is poured over the compacted pad and a layer of waterproofing is laid out. Having laid the insulation (EPS), pipes are fixed to it and a leveling screed is made of concrete. The reinforcing mesh is laid over the pipes or heating cable.

In passing, we note that floors on the ground can be made not only in brick, block, but also in wooden houses. With the right approach, ballast backfill does not have any effect negative impact on wood.

One of the options for properly pairing such a structure with chopped walls is shown in the diagram below.

Interface with a wooden wall

When the groundwater level is low, a concrete slab lying on clay or on a layer of compacted waterproofed bedding is made in basements. This is a very common option in cottage construction.

Before installing the screed, the area of ​​the room must be divided into strips 80-100 cm wide using steel U-shaped profile or wooden beacon boards placed on edge. The damper tape is attached to the walls before pouring begins so that it protrudes 1.5-2 cm above the design mark of the finishing surface.

Pouring concrete begins at the far end of the room and moves towards the front door.

Laying is done in strips, filling the cells slightly above their level. For leveling, use a vibrating screed or metal rule, moving it along the beacons.

After allowing the mixture to dry, the beacons are removed from it, filling the resulting seams fresh concrete. After this, the concrete is covered with film and given 4 weeks to gain strength, periodically moistening it with water.

Pros and cons of the design

When planning to lay a floor on the ground, you need to know what its advantages are over other types of foundations:

• Reasonable cost;
• Readiness of the base for laying any floor coverings;
• There is no need to ventilate the underground space to avoid the appearance of fungus;
• Greater durability compared to wooden and reinforced concrete floors.

The disadvantages of this design include:

• Loss of useful room height (up to 60 cm);
• Labor intensity of waterproofing work at high groundwater level;
• Poor compatibility with columnar and pile foundations;
• High cost of repairing hidden communications.

There are several technologies for flooring on the ground, depending on operating conditions and owner preferences. The flooring can be laid on a wooden base or on a concrete screed or slab. In the latter case, the slab is either attached to a strip foundation, or a floating screed (self-leveling, dry) is used.

To save construction budget, the basement of the building is most often covered with floor slabs, which automatically become the base of the floor. Monolithic design located above the non-freezing in the most very coldy soil saturated with groundwater and radon radiation. Without quality natural ventilation the concrete slab begins to collapse, the health of the residents deteriorates with increased radio frequency.

Therefore in strip foundation or in the base, ventilation openings are created that cannot be closed even in winter. In cottage designs with a low base there is not enough space for natural ventilation; the holes are filled with snow in winter. In this case, the only way to construct a floor is the ground technology.

Communications are traditionally routed through the lower level, so to ensure maximum maintainability, it is wiser to install duplicate sleeves and conduct additional systems water supply, gas pipeline, sewerage. If the main pipelines become clogged during operation of the house, in this case there will be no need to open the slab/screed; it is enough to move the risers to the backup life support systems.

What a developer needs to know about ground floor construction

This technology has a high operational life only if the requirements of the SP standards of 2011 numbered (formerly SNiP 2.03.13-88) are met. To understand the design of the floor “pie” on the ground of the first floor of the building, it is necessary to consider the Factors acting on the poured slab:

1. Heaving forces, which usually frighten individual developers, do not occur under most buildings. Cottages based on slabs, strip foundations, grillages resting on the ground or buried in it emit some heat to the lower level. With normal insulation of foundations (pasing the outer walls of the base with extruded polystyrene foam) under the base of the house is always preserved geothermal heat subsoil
2. Any project must have drainage and/or storm drainage, which diverts flood, soil, and water from the power structures of the cottage. melt water. That's why high humidity land under the house - most often aggressive advertising, calling on the developer to increase the construction budget to combat a non-existent danger. In fairness, it is worth noting that in the absence of stormwater and/or drainage system the soil under the building will indeed be constantly wet.
3. Even in the absence of heaving forces, the ground under the house will sag in 90% of cases during operation. The base slab tied to the strip foundation will end up hanging on it, which is not particularly scary with normal reinforcement. In this case, the floating screed will sink lower along with the floor, which will require dismantling and re-fabrication of the slab. Therefore, backfilling is used not with soil extracted at the excavation stage, but with non-metallic materials with mandatory layer-by-layer compaction using a vibrating plate or manual tamper every 20 cm of sand, crushed stone.
4. Recommended by many companies is a layer of geotextile under the backfill pad in in this case, is not only unnecessary, but also harmful. The soil will not be compacted, and the effectiveness of the screed/slab will be reduced to zero. Non-woven fabric used only in the manufacture of pillows before laying external engineering systems(sewage, water supply), paving parking lots with paving stones, paths paving slabs. In this case, the filtering and drainage properties of geotextiles are relevant.

Thus, when choosing a floor-on-ground technology, especially on a strip foundation, it is necessary to correctly position each layer of the “pie”. This will ensure maximum service life, ease of use, and high maintainability of the design.

What layers are needed and their relative positions

With a limited construction budget for a self-leveling screed/floor slab on the ground, the minimum required layers are (from top to bottom):

• reinforced reinforced concrete screed - most floor coverings can be laid on it (linoleum, laminate, carpet, porcelain tiles, floorboard, cork, tile) or base for parquet (multilayer plywood);
• insulation – reduces heat loss and operating budget (fewer heating registers can be used);
• waterproofing - does not allow moisture to penetrate into the heat insulator from the ground;
• sub-base (concrete preparation) – films are often used as waterproofing, roll materials, membranes that are easily damaged during reinforcement, pouring the top screed, or builders’ shoes when laying heat insulation, so a slab (4-7 cm) of low-strength concrete is poured;
• cushion - when vibrating non-metallic material, stability of the geometry of the lower layer is achieved, on which the floating screed will rest.

A polyethylene film between the screed and the insulation is optional.

According to the SP standards for residential buildings 60 cm of pillow is enough (3 layers of 20 cm each). Therefore, if the pit is of significant depth, which is being made for a strip foundation, it is more expedient to fill it with the same soil to the design mark, also with layer-by-layer compaction.

Building on slab foundation has a ground floor design by default. Therefore, before pouring the slab, it is enough to carry out the following steps:

• ensure duplication of engineering systems - additional sleeves with a piece of sewer + water pipe;
• make a cushion - excavate 80 cm of soil with 60 cm of backfill;
• perform waterproofing - film or roofing felt;
• lay a heat insulator - usually 5-10 cm of polystyrene foam, which retains its properties even when wet or immersed in water.

It is possible to plan the construction budget for a cottage only at the design stage. Therefore, the ground floor must be included in the documentation for initial stage.

Technologies for constructing floors on the ground

If, due to the above reasons, the project does not have a floor slab necessary to fix the floor cladding of the first floor, several options for arranging the substructure are possible. At the same time, pouring screeds from low-strength concrete is recommended in all cases, without exception. The main slab will subsequently rest on it or adjustable joists necessary when choosing parquet or floorboards.

Self-leveling screed

Scheme of a concrete floating floor on the ground

The maximum service life of the structure is ensured by a self-leveling floating screed on the strip foundation of the building. The technology looks like this:

• filling the pit with sand - periodic backfilling with compaction every 10 - 20 cm;
• rough screed - reinforcement is not necessary; film waterproofing can be laid under concrete grade M100 (5-7 cm layer, filler fraction 5/10 mm);
• hydro-vapor barrier - membrane, film or roofing felt in two layers, running onto a monolithic strip foundation at 15 - 20 cm;
• insulation – preferably extruded polystyrene foam, which retains its characteristics even in water;
• finishing screed - reinforced with mesh (mesh 5 x 5 cm, wire 4 mm), filled with concrete M 150 (crushed stone fraction 5/10 mm, river sand or washed quarry sand, without clay).

Also, in the construction of a self-leveling floor, you can easily install a warm floor; to do this, you need to lay polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes for coolant. Each contour of a warm floor must be continuous, i.e. Pipe connections in concrete screed are not permitted.

Scheme of a concrete floating heated floor on the ground

When the groundwater level is below 2 m, according to 3 years of experience in operating the site, the absence of lower waterproofing in the floor structure on the ground is allowed, reducing the thickness of the sand cushion to 15 - 20 cm. In this case, the maximum groundwater level should be taken into account, according to statistical data for the region . Any facing materials can be laid on the screed.

Wooden logs

A budget option for ground floor technology is the design of an adjustable floor:

• a concrete screed is poured onto a cushion made of non-metallic material (layer-by-layer compaction of 20 cm), covered with waterproofing;
• logs are placed on adjustable supports, the upper part of which is cut off after installation;
• A heat insulator is placed inside ( basalt wool or extruded polystyrene foam);
• the floorboard or laminate is laid directly on the joists; for parquet cladding, a layer of plywood is required.

Supports cannot be mounted on soil or non-metallic material. However, a concrete screed without reinforcement is cheaper than any other technology.

Dry screed

Floors on the ground can be made using dry screed technology. At the initial stage, the design is similar to the previous case (cushion + rough screed + waterproofing). After which, the sequence of actions changes. Manufacturer Knauf offers ready-made solution dry screeds of the following type:

• positioning of beacons - special strips or profiles from gypsum plasterboard systems, fixed with putty solution;
• filling with expanded clay crumbs - the gaps between the beacons are filled with this material over a layer of waterproofing;
• laying GVL - special two-layer slabs attached to each other with glue and self-tapping screws.

Scheme of a dry floor on the ground using Knauf technology

ZIPS company offers original solution dry screed on a strip foundation of another type. Here the expanded clay chips are replaced with mineral wool glued to the gypsum fiber board (also two-layer). After installing the gypsum fiber panels, 12 mm plywood is laid on top of them, which is also convenient for attaching any floor covering.

These technologies are successfully used both for the first floor and for any subsequent floor in multi-storey building. In both cases, in addition to thermal insulation, sound insulation of the premises is provided.

Features of self-leveling screed technology

When building a floor on the ground, it is necessary to take into account several nuances:

• inside the contour of the foundation strip, the roots are removed, the fertile layer is removed, which is not suitable for compaction;
• polyethylene film allows radon to pass through, so it is better to use polycarbonate, vinyl acetate, and PVC modifications laid in two layers;
• It is imperative that the waterproofing does not allow steam to pass through, i.e. was a water vapor barrier (or simply a vapor barrier), because moisture in the soil is also in a vapor state;
• It is recommended to run the film on strip base along the perimeter 15 cm above the designed screed (subsequently trimmed with a knife);
• the insulation is applied to the height of the slab being poured; above this level, a damper tape is used to provide sound insulation from structural noise.

The floating screed of each floor in the house is created for several purposes. Cutting off the slab from the walls allows you to compensate for internal stresses inside it and prevent cracking from possible shrinkage wall materials, isolate the noise transmitted to the power frame of the cottage by generators, compressors, boilers, and other power equipment.

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If the house plan does not provide for the construction of its underground part (basement), then the most profitable solution There will be a floor arrangement directly on the surface of the earth. By observing all norms and standards, you can build a high-quality site on your own. This is, of course, far from the cheapest and easy option, but everything is, of course, relative. In this case, the use of special equipment and very expensive materials, which makes the process easier and cheaper.

What are the advantages of the correct floor pie on the ground and does it have any disadvantages?

Before you start studying the structure of a proper floor pie on the ground, you need to familiarize yourself with its advantages and disadvantages. So to obvious advantages can be attributed:

1. If built well, it will reliably protect the room from the penetration of cold from the ground.

2. If you wish, you can significantly reduce costs by choosing budget options insulation materials. This will reduce the quality of the structure, but not very significantly.

3. When performing such work, there is no need to perform complex technical calculations, which are necessary in other more complex cases.

filling concrete mixture for finishing the rough layer
insulation with polystyrene foam

4. On a site built according to this principle, it is very easy to install a “warm floor” system.

5. This design has very high sound insulation rates.

The disadvantages of proper ground pie include the following:

1. If the sum of all the heights of the levels is incorrectly calculated, then such a design will significantly reduce the height of the premises.

2. Such a system cannot be built if the groundwater is very close to the surface of the earth, or on unstable soils.

3. Dismantling, if necessary, is a very labor-intensive and expensive task.

Our article about how and with what will be useful wooden floor in the house to all year round it was warm and dry.

We make the correct floor pie on the ground in compliance with all necessary insulation standards

correct floor pie on the ground

In order to avoid problems such as the parquet becoming damp during operation (pulling moisture from below), household members often getting sick (constant cold in the house), and the furniture being skewed (the platform on which they stand is “damp”), it is necessary to be very meticulous in recreating all layers of the correct floor pie on the ground. To obtain a dry, warm, smooth and strong surface, proceed as follows:

1. On average, at the first stage (removing the top layer of soil) they go about 50 cm deep. The thickness can vary depending on how saturated the ground under the building is with water, how low the temperature can drop in winter, whether heated floors will be installed around the perimeter of the first floor and much more. We will build on average statistical indicators, which can be easily adjusted to individual needs.

2. After collecting excess soil, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the surface. And then carefully compact the bottom of the recess that you dug. It is almost impossible to do quality work manually; to save money, it is better to use a vibrating plate.

3. After this, the first mound of sand should go. Its height can be from 4 cm to 8 cm. In our case, this figure is maximum. After leveling the top layer of the embankment, it is compacted.

laying reinforcing mesh
screed

4. The second layer is a mound of small stones. Crushed stone or gravel is suitable for these purposes. Tamping is not needed at this stage, unlike leveling the layer. Its height is similar to the height of the previous layer.

5. Next, the concrete mixture is poured to make the rough layer. It can be made either with or without reinforcement, but it is better, of course, not to save money. Laying it down reinforced mesh and fill it with the mixture. The level of the solution rises 10 cm above the surface of the previous layer (you can certain conditions reduce it to 5cm).

6. Now it is necessary to protect the layers that will be laid later from moisture penetration into them. We spread the insulating material (membrane or film) over the entire surface; it should be laid not only on the site itself, but also on the bottom of the walls adjacent to it. The overlap between the wall and one canvas onto another is 20-25 cm.

8. Moisture insulation sheets are spread on top. This is done in order to thermal insulation material not deteriorated not only from the penetration of water from the ground, but also from the floor surface (in the event of a flood, for example).

9. Last layer– screed. Now reinforcement is not just desirable, but mandatory. The thickness of the final layer is about 10 cm. How to properly make a screed yourself.

It is difficult to build such a structure only physically, since the work is heavy and labor-intensive. In certain cases, the use of this particular option is absolutely justified, especially considering that it has an order of magnitude fewer disadvantages than advantages.

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