Most often, self-leveling floors are wooden floor found in houses wooden type. Perhaps these were built a long time ago village houses or large cottages, built according to modern projects from a log house. In any such house it is possible to install a self-leveling floor. Perhaps someone will make a small discovery for themselves, but making a self-leveling floor in a wooden house today is not considered a particular problem. Modern polyurethane mixtures allow you to create any coating. The only and important condition is the complete readiness of the wooden floor.
Modern elastic, fast-acting self-leveling flooring is considered an excellent replacement for expensive particle boards. Together with a special reinforcing mesh, a special universal primer, a system is created that helps overcome the stress experienced by a wooden floor that does not have cracks. The result is an absolutely smooth coating on which a variety of operations can be carried out. You can put carpet, stick ceramic tiles or just paint it. A wooden floor must have a layer of self-leveling flooring with a maximum thickness of 20 mm. After 5 hours have passed after applying the coating, walking on the new wooden floor is allowed after 12 hours, and it becomes possible to carry out further work.
And, of course, in order for the installation to proceed efficiently, prepare in advance:
- empty containers;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
- hammer;
- rule;
- level;
- roulette.
What kind of floors do wooden houses have?
Wooden houses, similar to residential premises, require special attention to the arrangement of the floor, since the rooms in such a house are usually located on the ground floor. That is why the coating must be absolutely smooth, look attractive and must be insulated.
In most cases wooden house has two types of floors. They can be concrete, or they use wood. Moreover, the concrete floor has the most advantages. This type of floor requires a small investment, there is much less fuss with it, and it does not require special professional skills to install such a coating. However concrete covering- this is the weight that puts increased pressure on the foundation of the building. Any vibrations of the walls can cause cracking of the base, as a result of which the thermal insulation ability of the material will be lost.
A wooden floor is more resistant to any vibrations of the walls, it meets all environmental requirements. Such a wooden floor can be easily processed, rotten boards can be replaced, and all work can be carried out even after complete installation wooden floor. The negative side of this gender is high price, the work of installing a wooden floor can only be performed by professional workers; smooth surface almost impossible.
Preparing the base for pouring mortar
How high the quality of the coating will be largely depends on the most important stage during which the base is prepared. Failure to follow the step-by-step, competent technology for producing self-leveling floors will lead to cracking of the coating, it may begin to deteriorate, peeling will be observed, occurring before its service life. Only solid foundation made with high quality, can be quality collateral long-term operation flooring.
Sometimes a self-leveling floor is installed directly on an antique wooden floor. In this regard, the wood must be sanded using sandpaper to obtain a rough structure. Treated boards must be painted with a special primer. If the first layer is not very strong and monolithic, it is necessary to apply several more layers. The surface of the wood should be free of grease, varnish and oil stains.
The next step is to remove installed skirting boards fill any cracks in the floor with blocks. Wooden floors need to be cleaned very thoroughly using a scraper. When performing such an operation, you need to pay a lot of attention to the existing inter-board joints and expose all existing cracks. Using a vacuum cleaner, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the self-leveling floor and degrease it using cleaning powder.
After this, well-treated cracks must be sealed using building mixture, level the surface. Then lines are drawn along the entire perimeter of the room, the length of which is less than the length of the room. Screws are placed along each line, maintaining a step of 30 cm. With help laser level the highest point on the surface of the self-leveling floor is found.
The screws must be screwed in at the same level.
Moreover, they need to be screwed into the ends at an angle of 90 degrees along previously drawn lines. Place several pieces of alabaster near each screw.
The next step will be laying the beacons that are required self-leveling floor. They are installed directly on the screws. There should be no subsidence of the beacons; if this happens, they need to be cemented.
Some features
Before you begin installing the self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, it is necessary to lay a mounting tape along the entire perimeter of the walls. This will be a damper gasket; it will protect the surface in case of expansion as the temperature increases.
After all preparatory work you need to determine the air humidity and temperature in the room. Production technology very often requires that these parameters have certain values. This is especially true for self-leveling floors where wood is used.
The prepared solution is immediately poured onto an area equal to 2 square meters. m. The solution is leveled using beacons. To obtain uniformity, it is rolled with a needle roller. When carrying out work, it is necessary to ensure that the lift of the self-leveling floor is maintained in relation to installed beacons. The poured floor must dry thoroughly.
After the surface has set and completely dried, pour finishing coating consisting of varnish and resin. It will give the finished coating a magnificent glossy shine and improve its strength characteristics.
IN modern renovation Very often self-leveling floors are used to level the base and for the finishing coating. The main advantages of such floors are their durability, wear resistance, strength and ease of installation. In addition, one cannot fail to note their environmental friendliness and safety. Today, self-leveling floors have changed qualitatively very much compared to those that were presented on the market a few years ago. An example of this is 3D floors, which can be called real masterpieces, thanks to unique design with a three-dimensional image of any object.
Laying a self-leveling mixture on a concrete base does not cause any difficulties for anyone, but how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? After all, not everyone likes the prospect of dismantling the old plank floor. What if this a private house, where the floor was originally completely wooden? It's no problem. It is possible to lay self-leveling floors on wooden surface under certain conditions. It is important here that the old base is still sound, and the mixture for the floor is thin, so as not to reduce the height of the ceilings.
Preparing the base for pouring self-leveling floors
Since the self-leveling mixture must be poured onto a sufficiently prepared base, increased attention should be paid to this process. Any foundation requires careful preparation. This especially applies to old wooden floors. Let’s immediately make a reservation that this old floor should not be rotten, there should not be any creaks coming from it, not to mention the presence of loose boards.
First of all, all skirting boards in the room are dismantled. After this, using a scraping machine, carefully remove the top painted layer from the boards. Further grinder rub the base, revealing cracks that are sure to exist on any old wooden covering. These cracks, irregularities and gaps between the boards are covered with putty. For further work, wait until it dries well. Then, using coarse sandpaper, rub the entire surface. This technique will ensure better adhesion of the self-leveling mixture to the base.
The worn and smooth base is cleaned of dust and degreased using a vacuum cleaner. Then the surface must be primed. This guarantees excellent adhesion of the polyurethane mixture to the wood. This must be done in at least two layers. Sifted quartz sand should be added to the primer composition. Grains of this substance create roughness on the surface of the base, which increases the adhesion area and creates its multidirectionality. In total, this gives greater adhesion of the polymer and wood.
Tools needed to perform the work
To prepare the wooden base and pour the mixture you will need:
- An ordinary nail puller, wooden wedges and a chisel for dismantling skirting boards.
- A scraper or a hand scraper.
- Sander.
- Coarse grain sandpaper or emery.
- Industrial or household vacuum cleaner.
- Roller or medium size brush for applying primer.
- A flat brush or short-haired paint roller to evenly distribute the polymer coating.
- Needle roller for removing air from a polymer coating.
- Squeegee and metal spatula.
- A construction mixer or drill with an attachment for mixing the polymer floor solution.
Don’t forget about such mandatory items as safety glasses, work clothing, gloves and respirators. In order to be able to move, if necessary, on a freshly applied layer of self-leveling floor without fear, you need to acquire shoes equipped with soles with spikes.
Self-leveling polymer floor technology
In itself, the technology of pouring a self-leveling mixture onto an ordinary plank floor is no fundamentally different from a similar procedure where concrete serves as the base. The differences are only in the initial preparatory stage, which we discussed above in sufficient detail.
Before pouring a polymer floor, you should very carefully read the instructions for preparing the solution, which are on the package. The solution must be prepared in strict accordance with it.
Take the dry mixture from the bag and pour it into a container convenient for mixing. A plastic bucket from water-based paint. The amount of water required according to the instructions is poured into the powder and mixed with a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous mass is formed. Then, ready solution spread on prepared wooden base. They begin to do this from the farthest corner of the room, gradually moving towards the door.
The poured mass is leveled as it progresses using a spatula to obtain a layer no more than 5 mm thick. This optimal size in the case of a wooden base. Final alignment and air bubbles are removed using a rubber needle roller. At the same time, you can move around the room using spiked shoes.
Self-leveling polymer flooring mixture hardens very quickly, so batches must be prepared quickly. The intervals between their fillings should be no more than 10 minutes. It is advisable to fill such a floor together, using two containers. While one person prepares the mixture, the second person pours and levels the previous batch. The joints between pouring batches should be rolled more carefully with a roller if you are making the floor alone and continuous process you cannot provide.
15 minutes after the room is completely filled, the entire surface must be covered with film. This is required to prevent dust from settling on the floor, spoiling the quality of the glossy surface. When the self-leveling floor is completely dry and can be walked on, it becomes possible to apply the finishing coating. It can be a polymer for three-dimensional floors, varnish or traditional options floor coverings.
Installation cost
The costs of installing self-leveling floors in a home are strictly individual. They depend on the selected type of self-leveling mixture, its manufacturer, costs decorative design. Floors in 3D format with an exclusive pattern cost an order of magnitude higher than ordinary floors. The technology for installing self-leveling floors on a wooden base is not particularly complicated, so you can do the work yourself. This will provide a significant reduction in the cost of all repairs.
Here are approximate prices for work performed by professionals by stage:
- Preparation of a wooden base for pouring a polymer self-leveling floor (average price 5 USD per 1 sq.m.).
- Primer of the prepared base (average price 3 USD per 1 sq.m.).
- Filling a wooden surface with a self-leveling polymer mixture (average price 6 USD per 1 sq.m.).
Thus, for the entire complex of work on pouring a self-leveling floor, for example, in a room of 20 m2, you will have to pay 280 USD. Agree that this amount is quite impressive. This is much more than the mixture itself costs. All these prices refer to ordinary sex which you can do yourself.
The cost of pouring decorative floors is usually calculated individually. If you decide to make a self-leveling floor in 3D format at home, then you will definitely need to use the services of a specialist. This will guarantee:
- High quality creation decorative covering.
- Guarantee for all work performed.
- Carrying out the entire installation cycle in accordance with accepted technologies.
- Using construction tools that are too expensive, but necessary in the process.
In case self-execution work should not be neglected practical advice professionals. This experience will help you avoid costly reworking of the coating later.
In any residential premises, it is recommended to use self-leveling mixtures only based on polymer resins. In rooms where high humidity is constantly present, it is necessary to use epoxy type self-leveling flooring, while the rest of the house has polyurethane flooring.
The technology for filling is provided for concrete base, but installation on a wooden surface is also allowed. At the same time, the labor intensity of the work increases, since it is imperative to carry out high-quality preparation of the base with a two-layer primer. The adhesion strength of the coating to the base wood depends on this.
At first glance, the situation is quite difficult when a relatively fragile leveling layer needs to be poured onto such an unstable base. However, there are many proven technologies that will allow you to do the installation even with your own hands.
Do you need to repair wooden floors in your apartment and want to use self-leveling flooring? The option is not the simplest, but there are proven technologies that are easy to do even with your own hands.
Attention! !
How difficult is installation?
If a concrete screed is used as a rough foundation, we can complete the work without problems, this foundation is very strong and stable. For a successful result, it is necessary to prime and set the beacons. More than s difficult case when there is a wooden floor in the apartment. 
The boards do not form a single plane; if installed poorly, they dangle. With fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometric dimensions change, and individual boards with different sizes, especially relevant with heated floors. When drying, cracks appear; they will have to be sealed, then the leveling solution will not flow into them. During operation, squeaks will appear; without dismantling and repeated work, it will not get rid of it.
Wooden floors are prone to rot. When installing a self-leveling floor, you will need to provide conditions to prevent friction and destruction of wooden elements. You can’t overdry it either - the wood loses its strength and cracks.
We will do it ourselves, we will try to make do with the most accessible tools.
List of tools:
- Screwdriver;
- Drill with mixer attachment;
- Level;
- Electric planer;
- Roulette;
- Scissors.
- Spatulas wide
- Narrow spatula
- Containers for clean water
- Solution container
- Needle roller
Preparatory work
We strengthen and level the old wooden floor.
What defects do wooden floors have in an apartment?
- Boards of different thicknesses
- Boards driven by “screw”
- Dried out or laid with a large gap wooden elements designs;
- Presence of creaking
- Rotten floorboards, beams
- Old peeling paint
- Deviation from level
We examine the wooden floor. Is there at least one defect present? Let's start fixing it. Defects occur in most cases, the only exception being new wooden floors laid according to all the rules.
Checking the level wooden flooring. If the plane does not correspond to the level, you will have to completely open the floors and level or even change the logs. It would be a good idea to open a small part, even if the level is within normal limits, to check the integrity of the joists, but this applies more to old structures. 
Suppose we discovered a slope. Then it is easier to disassemble completely wooden floors and install a new one. We begin installation with the outermost joists located at opposite ends of the room. We install them exactly according to the level, and then stretch the cord between them. We install intermediate logs along the cord. We process those that are above the cord with a plane, and under those that are lower we place pieces of plywood or other suitable material. Is there high humidity in the apartment? It is necessary to treat the material with antiseptic agents.
When the logs are laid in one plane and secured, we begin to check the thickness of the boards. It happens that the gaps between the floorboards are 5 mm or more, then it is necessary to correct the situation, despite the fact that we pour a leveling mixture on top. It’s the same here, we remove it from thick floorboards required thickness with an electric planer, and for thin ones we use pads.
A more complex defect is in the form of boards that are twisted with a “screw”. Wedges and a plane will not help. The floorboard “screws” onto the beams with only one edge; if you cut off the protruding edge, the second edge dangles in the air, and this is not reliable. There are two options here - change the entire floorboard or try to straighten it by pulling it. It is not possible to tighten with ordinary self-tapping screws; the slots are torn off or the bit is damaged, and the force is not enough.
In this case, a long screw (at least 100mm) with a hex head can help. To tighten with such a screw, we will make a hole in the board, in the place where it protrudes upward, do not drill closer than 2 centimeters from the edge. The hole needs to be slightly larger than the thickness of the screw. We tighten the screw until the edge of the floorboard is level with the plane of the adjacent boards. Then we fix the attracted place with at least four wood screws, and remove the large screw.
Another common defect is large gaps. If we were preparing the floor for laying laminate, the gaps would not be so critical; a couple of layers of plywood would save the situation. But we need to wooden floor pour in the apartment liquid solution self-leveling floor, and it will definitely leak into the cracks. You can remove large gaps with store-bought wood putties, but if you go to the store, choose acrylic ones for seams and filling cracks, there are also finishing ones, but they won’t suit us. You can make this putty yourself by mixing PVA glue with fine sawdust.
If the wooden floor in the apartment is painted and it begins to peel off, you will have to rip it off. During operation, it, together with the self-leveling floor layer, may come off. I won’t talk about rotten floorboards and creaking. We change necessary elements and strengthen it.
Preparing for pouring
We received a relatively smooth and strong surface. We treat with an antiseptic for interior works. We cover it with primer in two or more layers, since wood is highly absorbent. Before priming, we clean everything from dust and sawdust. Deep penetration primer. 
A deformation damper will be required between the screed and the wall. O is needed to protect against temperature deformations, especially if a heated floor is planned. It won't break the walls, but it will crack the surface. As such a layer, either a special self-adhesive tape or strips cut from isolon are used. We attach them vertically along the entire perimeter of the room.
Fill
You may have already chosen, for example, gypsum, polyurethane or cement. But I would recommend using special composition Vetonit 4310 from Weber. It is intended specifically for complex substrates, including those that are deformable, like a wooden floor, although its base is cement. It can be used as an independent base layer, thickness up to 60mm is allowed, and also as an intermediate layer between wood and another type of self-leveling mortar. 
It's time to pour the self-leveling floor onto the wooden floor; you need to do this process together. One person mixes the mixture, and the other pours it out, leveling it with a wide spatula. For large areas, you must first make beacons from screwed-in screws or spider beacons. After leveling, you need to remove air from the layer; a needle roller is used for this purpose. You need to have time to do everything in no longer than 20 minutes, then it will start to set.
The finishing coating is laid in 1-3 weeks. To speed up drying, you should not create drafts in the apartment, this will lead to uneven drying and the appearance of shrinkage cracks. To check final drying, you need a vapor-proof film measuring one meter by meter. Place the film on the screed; the formation of condensation under the film means that the drying process has not completed.
Heated if needed
Nowadays, heated floors have become popular in private houses and apartments. Heating systems are divided into water and electric. In the case of wood, it is better to choose an electric one; you can also do a water one, but you need to be sure that the ceilings will withstand the high load. For the water version, you usually need a screed with a thickness of at least 50mm, and this is already a lot of weight. The pipe has a height of 16mm, a 30mm solution is poured above the pipe for uniform heat distribution. 
In this case, a prefabricated lightweight system with aluminum plates or a multilayer underfloor heating system made of GVL sheets(plasterboard), you can read more about this technology here. But this is a slightly different topic.
So it’s still better to use electric version. The technology is not much different from laying on concrete screed. You already know how to make a base layer on a wooden floor; then roll foil insulation, which has reflective properties, is laid on it. After this, we install the reinforcing mesh, and then roll out the heating elements on top and fill them with a self-leveling leveler. DSP is also suitable, it is cheaper.
No one has canceled the intervals for gaining strength; when installing a heated floor, we wait 3 weeks. The heating should be turned on no earlier than a week after installation. Tile is suitable as a finishing coating. Laminate flooring can be laid with a backing.
Video
Advantages of self-leveling coating
Self-leveling flooring is a technologically advanced way to renovate old apartments. Allows you to quickly obtain a flat surface. Eco-friendly, wear-resistant. Easy to make with your own hands. Plastic, resistant to cracks on complex wooden bases.
The main advantages of self-leveling floors include wear resistance, strength and safety. Polyurethane coatings not only have good performance characteristics. The mixtures produced today have a large number of various color solutions. Floors with a three-dimensional effect look especially beautiful. The only thing that confuses apartment and house owners is preparing the foundation. After all, remove old wooden floors and prepare smooth screed– the process is quite labor-intensive. Not everyone knows that there is no need to rip wooden boards. You just need to choose the right self-leveling floor for a wooden floor.
When choosing a mixture, you should pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations. If among the recommended grounds it is mentioned wood covering, this composition can be safely used for filling. Many manufacturers produce self-leveling mixtures for wooden floors, so choosing a suitable leveler is not difficult.
Requirements for a wooden base
It is worth noting that not every wooden floor is suitable as a base for a self-leveling mixture. A wooden floor must meet the following requirements:
- the coating does not creak;
- all boards must be securely fastened and should not bend when walking;
- the wooden floor does not have significant level differences;
- there are no gross defects on the surface of the boards;
- the boards are in good condition, there are no damage caused by fungus or rotten areas.
If the floor meets these requirements, you can proceed to the next stage - preparing the base.
Important: If any of the listed defects exist, you will need to inspect the wooden covering, check the condition of the old joists, and, if necessary, install additional ones. It may be necessary to replace some boards that have become unusable.
Preparing the base
Self-leveling flooring is poured onto a wooden base only after careful preparation. The service life of the boards largely depends on how well the surface of the boards is leveled. self-leveling coating.
- First of all, the surface of the boards is sanded. The top layer with varnish, paint and dirt is removed. After sanding, the boards are treated with emery to give a rough structure.
- Next, remove all the baseboards around the perimeter of the room, and cover the resulting cracks with bars. All seams at the junctions of the boards are passed with a scraper, all cracks and chips are cleaned. Dust and small debris are removed using a vacuum cleaner. Before pouring the self-leveling floor onto the boards, they should also be degreased. To do this, you can use a special cleaning powder.
- The next stage of preparing the base is installing beacons and laying tape around the perimeter of the room. The tape will serve as a damper pad, and the beacons will help to pour the self-leveling floor onto the wooden floor without any drops. They are set using a water level, and the installation height depends on the layer of self-leveling coating. As a rule, the thickness of the mixture layer ranges from 1 mm to 5 mm.
- Just before pouring into mandatory The humidity level in the room and the air temperature are checked. Compliance with the requirements indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging is one of important conditions successful completion of the work.
Floor pouring technology
Pour a self-leveling floor for wooden floors almost the same as mixtures for concrete foundations.
- First you need to properly prepare the mixture. The amount of water required for mixing the composition is indicated on the packaging.
Important! The proportions recommended by the manufacturer should be strictly observed. If there is an excess amount of liquid, self-leveling mixtures for wooden floors will harden much longer, and their resistance to external influences will be less than expected.
If there is not enough water, the mixture will harden in less time, and you may not have time to distribute it.
- Be sure to pay attention to the drying time of the composition. If you do not have experience with pouring self-leveling floors, it is better to mix the solution in small portions so that you can have time to level it over the floor surface. To speed up the process of distributing the mixture, you can invite an assistant and divide the work between you.
- It is recommended to start pouring from the most low level. Level the self-leveling floor on the wood using a soft spatula or a roller with needles. When choosing a roller, it is important to consider the thickness of the future coating. The length of the needles should be 2 mm longer. If the needles are short, the roller will plunge deeper into the solution than necessary and create unnecessary fluid movement. Long spikes will not allow the roller to quickly distribute the mixture. To move over a surface already filled with the compound, use special pads for shoes with spikes.
- After the self-leveling leveler is completed, the beacons are removed and the surface is left until it hardens completely. Manufacturers indicate the minimum time required for the mixture to harden. If you plan to conduct further work with a filled surface, professionals recommend waiting a week.
Self-leveling wood floor leveler can be poured onto both wood planks and plywood. Polymer self-leveling floors do not contain moisture that can cause deformation of the base, but pouring cement mortars must be approached with special attention. Depending on the moisture resistance of the plywood sheets, additional waterproofing may be required. In general, self-leveling flooring is poured onto plywood in the same way as onto wood. Some experts recommend using reinforcing mesh when applying self-leveling mortar.
You can get more detailed answers to the questions: is it possible to lay a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor and how to do it correctly after watching the next video.
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Popularity of self-leveling floors in modern world everything is growing and gaining momentum. Today, many people are interested in the question: is it possible to install a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? This is what we will discuss in this material. Today, self-leveling floors meet the following indicators:
Durability;
strength;
moisture resistance;
environmental materials and safety;
not exposed to fire and negative temperatures.
Having an impeccable appearance, self-leveling floors attract the attention of buyers. Absolutely any covering can be laid on top of such a floor. The self-leveling coating is not afraid of falling heavy objects, temperature changes, or aggressive chemicals. Latest methods decoration and design are constantly changing and expanding, an increasing number of colors, three-dimensional images are appearing, various inclusions and inlays are being added.
Today, the quality of self-leveling floors has changed compared to its predecessors. As an example, a 3D self-leveling floor can be presented, which is a decorative element with an exceptional design and three-dimensional images.
If laying a self-leveling mortar on a concrete floor today does not raise any questions, then pouring a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor immediately implies difficulties during installation. Since not everyone likes to dismantle a wooden floor, and if it was initially completely like that in the house, doubts immediately arise regarding the installation of the self-leveling coating. However, subject to certain conditions You can also lay a self-leveling floor on a wooden base. The main criterion for the work is the condition of the coating, which must still meet good standards of use, and the mixture must be made thin so as not to greatly affect the change in the height of the ceilings.
Preparing a wooden base for pouring
Since pouring a self-leveling floor requires a perfectly flat surface, the wooden base must be carefully prepared for this process. The wooden floor must be in good working order, not rotten, there should be no loose boards, everything is fastened firmly and securely.
At the initial stage, it is necessary to remove all baseboards from the room. Then carefully sand the floor with a scraper to remove the varnished or painted layer of the boards. After this, it is necessary to sand all the cracks, which are almost always present on the old floor, with a grinding machine. Using putty, you need to cover and putty all the cracks and unevenness of the floor. And you need to wait until it dries completely. For the best adhesion of the mixture to the coating, it is necessary to sand the floor again using coarse sandpaper.
After cleaning the base, it must be freed from dust and degreased. The next step work is priming the floor, which guarantees good adhesion of the polyurethane solution to the wood. The main rule is that you need to do this at least twice. Sifted particles quartz sand, which are included in the primer, create roughness in the wood, while increasing the degree of adhesion, including multidirectionality.
The main working tools for preparing wood and pouring a self-leveling floor are presented in the following list:
Nail puller, wooden wedges, and also a chisel;
machine or hand scraper;
Sander;
coarse sandpaper or emery;
industrial or domestic vacuum cleaner;
roller or brush for applying primer;
a flat brush or short-haired paint roller for even application of the polymer mixture;
needle roller to remove air when applying the solution;
squeegee or metal spatula;
construction mixer or a drill with an attachment designed for polymer floors.
You will also need to use special clothing, glasses and, of course, spiked shoes, which are designed for walking on a flooded floor.
Self-leveling coating installation technology
What’s most interesting is that the technology for pouring self-leveling mortar onto a wooden surface is basically no different from applying it to a concrete base. The main differences are presented only in preparing the basis for these actions.
However, before you start pouring the floor in the house, you need to lay a mounting tape around the entire perimeter of the room. You will also need to install special beacons that help maintain a certain floor level.
You should buy a high-quality flooring mixture from a trusted supplier. Before use, you must carefully study the instructions for preparing the mixture, which are always on the product packaging. In order for everything to work out correctly, you must follow all its points very strictly.
Usually they take the dry mixture and pour it into a container where it needs to be kneaded. A large bucket of water-based paint is best suited for this process. Pouring required amount water, which is reflected in the instructions, you can start mixing the solution with a mixer or drill with a special attachment. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, only then can it be laid out on the treated wooden floor. The main condition is that the mixture must be laid out starting from the farthest side of the room. towards the doors.
You need to level the mass to a thickness of 5 mm, and a spatula will help with this. This size is most optimal for rooms with wooden floors. To prevent air from collecting and to keep the surface smooth and even, go over the solution with a rubber needle roller. If necessary, you can move around the room only in spiked shoes. If necessary, level the mixture hard to reach places, a spatula is best. Since the coating is self-leveling, leveling basically occurs on its own, just as water spills over the floor.
Since the mixture solution hardens very quickly, batches must be prepared very quickly. The time interval between batches should be no more than 10 minutes. The optimal solution There will be two people making the floor, which allows one to pour the floor, and the other to prepare the next batch of mortar. But if this is not possible, then you need to pay attention Special attention pouring joints between batches must be handled with careful attention using a roller.
After completing work in the room, you must wait 15 minutes and then cover the floor with film. This is necessary to ensure that the surface remains glossy, free of dust and debris. After the floor has completely dried, when you can walk on it without fear, the final type of coating is applied. There is already enough imagination here. The floor can be like a three-dimensional polymer, varnish or other more standard options coverings. If you want a colored floor, then you can use colored dyes in its top layer. Upper layer will give the finished coating a glossy shine, and also improve strength and other characteristics. Experts do not recommend performing other work on outdoor floor within a week after its installation.
All work costs associated with coverage are individual for each person. Most often they depend on the quality of the mixture, its manufacturer, and the format of the decorative coating. For example, 3D floors with an individual exclusive design will cost much more than regular ones. Professionals charge a lot of money for their services. However, you can save money. The technology for installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not complicated, and everyone can independently add a “zest” to their home, decorating it depending on their tastes and preferences.
Experts recommend using only a solution based on polymer resins in residential areas. If the floor was poured in a room with high humidity, then you need to use an epoxy type of flooring. In all other rooms it is better to use polyurethane flooring.