The secrets of wood processing are passed down by craftsmen from generation to generation, for example, furniture makers and manufacturers musical instruments They know several ways to protect wood, which have been around for many years: treating wood with linseed oil, wax, oil and varnish. All three materials require a carefully prepared surface. Wood that is pre-sanded and deresined. Used for manual sanding sanding paper with granules different sizes, if you work with a grinder, then you will need grinding wheels with different grain sizes.
First, grind with coarse-grained devices, and then the size of the granules should decrease. Well sanded wood coniferous species It is necessary to remove the resin so that the resin that appears does not spoil the surface during subsequent manipulations. Wood processing technology allows the use of alcohol, white spirit, acetone, gasoline, turpentine or nitro solvents. In cases of serious tarring, this part of the surface is cut out, and another piece of wood is glued in its place. In addition, alkalis are good for removing resin, which are applied to wood hot, and then washed off and treated with acetic acid dissolved in water in a ratio of 1/50 to remove residual alkaline solutions. Once the wood surfaces have been sanded and de-resined, they must dry before you further coat them with preservatives.
Traditional methods of protecting wood Hand waxing Hand waxing The technology of working with wax has changed little over hundreds of years. Manual waxing is done using a cloth, which is used to take a piece of wax and rub it into a wooden surface; for a similar technique, soft types wax. Hard wax is heated in a water bath and applied to the wood with a brush. For waxing furniture, the first method is used; in all other cases, the second method is used. Oil treatment is used for external and interior works. Nobody uses pure oil; drying oil is made from it.
Varnishing is a final treatment decorative coatings wood, but at the same time the varnish performs a certain protective function: Firstly, it protects the surface from scratches and chips. Secondly, it fills the pores and prevents the development of any microorganisms in them. Thirdly, it preserves aesthetics for a long time appearance tree.
Other options for protecting wood Wooden structures can be damaged not only by bark beetles or mold, but also by fire. To reduce the risk of accidental fires caused by sparks or short circuit electrical wiring, wooden parts processed with special protective impregnations– flame retardants. Fire retardant treatment allows you to apply any varnish or paint to the wood after drying.
To use such impregnations, the wood must be dry and clean; any stains, as well as old coatings, must first be removed. Issued different kinds fire retardant impregnations, which give the treated surfaces class 1 or 2 fire resistance. The compositions are applied using brushes, spray guns, and if the structure can be disassembled, then individual parts can be soaked in baths with impregnations.
To protect against water, there are also ways to treat wood. For example, coating with any varnishes or paints will protect wooden structures from rotting, but there are also special water-repellent impregnations - azures. What it is? These are glazing compounds that combine impregnation and clear nail polish, but, unlike the latter, they do not leave a hard surface layer, but form an elastic film of a matte, semi-matte or semi-gloss texture. There are azures on water based, on oil based, on white spirit, the former are more often used indoors, the latter are suitable for outdoor use. To change the shade, tint compounds are added to the azure. In addition to the base and shade, glazes are also divided by density; in order to beautifully cover vertical wooden surfaces, it is better to take glaze high density– thixotropic, since it will not drip.
Varnish or oil - which coating of parquet boards is more practical to use?
The topic of this article did not arise by chance. Our customers are becoming more and more aware of “sexual issues”, and many already know that there is not only varnish coating for parquet flooring. There is also oil treatment, which has significant advantages over polymer coatings.
Now we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.
Wood processing with oil has been considered traditional for many centuries, and only in the 20th and current 21st centuries was it unfairly forgotten. Moscow and other European capitals are full of buildings and objects where oiled parquet flooring that is over 200 and sometimes 300 years old still lies. Is this possible with varnished parquet? No, the history does not have such data. The majesty of time itself confirms that wood treated with oil becomes more resistant to mechanical damage and harder. To make this clearer to you, let’s remember about exotic wood species such as merbau, jatoba, and kempas. These rocks contain a large number of oily substances, and nature did this so that during dry summers the wood would not dry out, giving away moisture. Merbau, jatoba, kempas and wenge (exotic oil-containing species) have wood hardness that is 50% higher than that of the hardest European species, oak. By treating wood with oil instead of varnish, you make it harder and much less susceptible to moisture and temperature changes. This is just a small practical confirmation that oiled wood has fundamentally higher quality characteristics than varnished wood. 
Now let's look at practical examples behavior of solid or parquet boards under oil under modern operating conditions.
It is strictly forbidden to use varnished boards in rooms where the temperature drops below 15 degrees. And here is the board under the oil of these unfavorable conditions not afraid. Why is this happening?
Photo wood oil treatment
Varnish is a polymer film that is applied to the top of the wood without penetrating into its pores. Imagine varnish on a woman’s nails - the analogy is 100 percent: varnish protects the surface of the nail and makes it more aesthetically pleasing. This is where the benefits end. The nail does not breathe under the varnish, and after some time it needs to be given the opportunity to recover. The floor covering under the varnish also does not breathe. With changes in humidity and temperature in the room, the tree, trying to acquire the same humidity characteristics as the room, begins to expand and contract: all this happens directly under the varnish itself. This is why the cracking of a parquet board under varnish is significantly higher than that of a board under oil. Deformation of the top layer of varnish due to the fact that the bottom layer of wood is mobile occurs quite quickly. It is recommended to restore parquet boards under varnish every 10 years. To do this, you need to remove all the furniture from the room, sand the board, remove old varnish, and apply a new one.
The situation is completely different with wood coated with oil. Considering the fact that the oil is deeply absorbed into the pores and does not interfere with the entire board’s breathing, cracking almost does not occur. The board moves freely and changes its shape without any tension. The oil treatment protects the board from moisture and can be washed with a damp cloth without fear of destroying the top layer. Feel free to use it in the kitchen, hallway and other “wet” areas. Oiled wood requires virtually no restoration, it just needs care. To do this, purchasing parquet or massive board under oil, purchase a care product. A bottle of this product costs no more than 800 rubles and lasts for a very long time: 1.5-2 years. Add one capful of product to a bucket of water, and your flooring will be “restored” every cleaning. Each cleaning will refresh your floors, making them more and more attractive each time. 
Well, what if we ruined our board by spilling a bottle of red wine on it? - you ask. Nothing bad will happen if you do not leave the wine to dry, but remove it immediately. Well, what if something unexpected happened and the wine dried up? In this case, visit the nearest parquet chemical store and purchase 2 bottles of special products: one will clean the stain, the second will restore the appearance. And note, for restoration you do not need to scrape and change the entire floor in the room: this can be done locally! Moreover, many companies that produce oiled floor coverings have special teams that will come when you call and do all the work themselves. Do manufacturers of varnished parquet boards offer such a service? No, he's missing.
And one last question that may confuse you. Dust, you say. Oil absorbs dust. Yes exactly. Oil absorbs dust, and care product removes dust. And it cannot be any other way. On any floor covering, dust must be removed either with a vacuum cleaner or with wet cleaning.
Do not forget also that oil coating is the most environmentally friendly and natural: no acids, formaldehydes and polymers that are found in varnish. American therapists also advise using such floors at home, as the oil preserves the natural texture of the wood and the surface acquires a gentle silk effect.
Features of proper wood waxing
It is important to highlight the wood texture with appropriate finishing. Of course, now there are a lot of chemical stains and varnishes on different bases. They have their advantages, but there are also significant disadvantages, the main ones of which are unnaturalness and toxicity. There are situations when varnishes and stains are generally unacceptable. For example, in the manufacture of wooden spoons or dishes.
Natural beeswax or vegetable wax
1) harmless to health,
2) emphasizes the beauty and reveals the texture of the wood, it becomes brighter, more expressive, slightly darkens and acquires a noble golden hue, 3) the wood surface treated with waxing becomes water-repellent and scratch-resistant, in addition, it breathes, unlike varnish,
4) the wood acquires a noble matte shine that does not hurt the eyes,
5) has an excellent smell. 
Before waxing, the wood must be treated with impregnation. The simplest impregnation– vegetable oil, preferably flaxseed oil, of course. They process the product in several stages. After each impregnation, the product is allowed to dry, then sanded.
Based linseed oil Impregnating compositions are often prepared using herbs and roots (angelica root, burdock, elecampane, galangal). Tannins contained in plants turn into oil and, when processing wood, strengthen its surface layers.
Peppermint oil
Here is a recipe for making mint oil, which has a very pleasant light aroma:
100g of dried crushed mint leaves are poured into a glass container, poured in 0.5 liters of vegetable oil, shaken and sent for 2 weeks in dark place. It is then filtered and used.
Afterwards the wood is treated with wax mastic. The simplest wax mastic is prepared from wax and turpentine in a ratio of 2:1, or oil and wax in a ratio of 2:1 (this is for food products). Here's another recipe for making wax mastic:
We take 100g of wax, 25g of crushed rosin and 50g of purified turpentine.
In a water bath, melt the wax in an enamel container, add rosin. After the wax has dissolved, gradually add turpentine. I add a little more propolis, it strengthens the wood and gives it an extra aroma. Remove everything from the heat, pour into a tin jar and let the mixture cool. The mastic becomes thick and pasty:
The product is rubbed with it and rubbed in with a piece of cloth or wool until the fabric stops sticking and a shine appears.
Sometimes resin or cherry gum is added to the mastic.
Besides beeswax Carnauba wax, which is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian palm tree, is often used. In hot weather, it secretes wax, which covers the surface of the leaf and protects against moisture loss.
Carnauba wax has a higher melting point, so it is more stable than beeswax. But it’s also 3 times more expensive.
Advice:
I tried using a mixture of beeswax and edible flax oil for waxing.
Heat the wax in a water bath. After the wax has melted, add linseed oil and mix well.
Proportions:
Wax-oil 4-1, 2-1 - the mastic turns out to be hard - similar to hard wax, but with a “greasy” tint.
Wax-oil 1-4, 1-2 - this mastic is obtained in the form of a semi-thick paste. The more oil, the more creamy the mastic will be. It must be stored in an airtight jar. Before use, we put a cloth into the jar and take a little mastic and polish the product on a machine. I use this mastic for waxing complex profiles (sour cream gets everywhere).
Mastic based on "Wax-oil" - relatively safe for “food” products (jars, vases for cookies). Why do I call it relatively safe - I just think that in our age of allergies, sooner or later there will be a person in whom your product will cause an allergy. I personally know a person who is allergic to flaxseed oil :)
But it should be recognized that the components of mastic, wax and oil, are the most environmentally friendly and are suitable for processing products that will come into contact with food.
Try mixing wax with other oils - perhaps you like something better.
Going further, you can infuse the oil with roots and herbs before mixing (infuse for about 2 weeks).
Just for fun, I once prepared a mastic infused with juniper sawdust and roots - when covering a linden tree with such mastic, it gives off a delicate juniper smell (a familiar carpenter was at first puzzled :)). Also various herbs and roots, I often change the shade of the coated product - in general, a limitless springboard for creativity.
Flaxseed oil can be bought in many pharmacies - it is the cheapest there. I do not recommend using the oil sold in art salons for food products.
I prefer to buy wax "at the grandmother's market." Once I bought wax at the market (in the form of molds) - something was wrong.
Also, products can be coated simply with a piece of wax - apply the wax to a rotating product, rub it well, and then polish it with cotton, wool or linen
Linseed oil
Even in Ancient Rus', craftsmen began to impregnate wood with oil in order to improve its properties. Using linseed oil they soaked wooden spoons, thereby extending their service life. And today, wood impregnation oil is one of the best means and, for example, like varnish.
There is finishing and primary wood processing. During primary treatment, the wood is impregnated with an antiseptic, which protects it from the formation of microorganisms that can have a destructive effect. Finishing impregnation is used with varnishes, oils or glazing agents. It is during the finishing process that it is extremely important to choose the right product so that in the future your structure can stand for as long as possible. Wood oil, especially linseed oil, can penetrate perfectly into the logs, giving them a satiny, beautiful shine; with its help you can even achieve an “antique effect”. Often, special preparations are also added to wood oil that can protect it from bad weather and enhance the properties of wood.
The oil is recommended to be used during finishing wooden log houses, which are used for the construction of a bathhouse. In this case, preparations containing oil as a base are practically irreplaceable, since such a tree will have to literally come into contact with the human body. The oils intended for steam room treatment include natural resins and linseed oil, as well as pine turpentine. On the floor, this oil is capable of forming a durable thin layer that is not afraid of human sweat, water and high temperatures. Oil consumption for such impregnation is approximately 10 square meters per liter.
In addition, this colorless linseed oil is excellent for treating shelves and the entire bath room as a whole. Before starting wood processing, you need to make sure that the air humidity in the room is 80%, and the wood moisture content is no more than 21%. The wood must be dry, cleaned in advance of dirt, fungi and mold. If necessary, you can prime the surface you are going to treat. If the wood has previously been varnished or painted, then oil cannot be used.
Before processing, linseed oil must be thoroughly mixed, and it must not be diluted with water. It should be applied to wood carefully, using a simple cloth or brush. Any oil that has not been absorbed into the wood should be removed. The oil is applied to the wood in two layers. The oil dries quite slowly, about a week, and the drying period directly depends on the quality of the wood being processed and weather conditions.
Wood shavings and brushes, rags that have interacted with linseed oil should be kept in a bucket of water, as spontaneous combustion is possible. It is best to destroy them immediately after completion of impregnation. Residues of linseed oil must not be poured into the ground, natural reservoirs or sewers.
- Oil properties
- Technologies used
Natural wood remains one of the most environmentally friendly and beautiful materials used in the construction and decoration of premises, the production of furniture, decorative items, and kitchen utensils. Wooden floors, window frames, doors, wall panels not only add color to the interior, but also maintain a cozy atmosphere and create a healthy microclimate. However, natural raw materials have an important drawback - high hydrophilicity, that is, the ability to absorb liquids. After some time after use, untreated wood, under the influence of accumulated moisture, swells, darkens and dries out.
Oil properties
To maintain quality wooden products as long as possible, use special impregnating agents that create an external protective covering. Natural oil compositions in this regard, they have some advantages, since they do not cause harm to health. Flaxseed oil for impregnating wood is considered one of the best. It contains a high content of linoleic acid, which promotes polymerization - oxidation in air and the conversion of the substance to a semi-solid state. When applying natural plant composition to the surface several goals are achieved:
- the wood becomes protected from dampness, fungal attack, cracking, darkening, premature rot, and acquires moisture- and dirt-repellent properties;
- the natural structure of the material is emphasized;
- minor defects of products are masked: roughness, scratches;
- the appearance of the wood improves: the color is evened out, a soft shine appears;
- the service life of materials is extended;
- the wood's ability to exchange air is preserved;
- There is no unpleasant chemical odor, characteristic of most synthetic impregnations, and there is no danger of intoxication.
Treating wooden products with linseed oil is absolutely harmless to people and animals and can be used on any surface, including children's toys, kitchen cutting boards, countertops, spoons, and bowls. This coating can be used for any type of wood: yew, birch, oak, pine, spruce. Wood oil acts as an antiseptic and is suitable as an independent or intermediate coating if paint or varnish is subsequently required.
Technologies used
For technical purposes, it is permissible to use a raw food product without additives, obtained by cold or hot pressing. But this composition has a drawback: it dries very slowly, each subsequent layer must be applied 5–7 days after the previous one. Treated products are left for a long time greasy spots when touched. The resulting coating will have to be updated quite often - 4–5 times a year, which is not very practical. In addition, light wood after it turns yellow or darkens when exposed to sunlight. It is better to use such impregnation for small parts: wall or floor decor, flowerpots, spoons, wood crafts, toys. Floors, stairs, benches, doors, shelves, ceiling beams, log houses and other massive elements are more useful to be coated with specially treated oil - industrial or drying oil home production with wax or synthetic polyurethane additives that speed up drying. Such products speed up and facilitate work, help achieve better results, and reduce further abrasion of the surface. Renewal of the completed coating is required 1–2 times a year.
In addition, pigmented impregnations based on linseed oil are produced, with which you can completely change old damaged wood, giving it an aesthetic appearance.
Materials processing involves several methods:
- vacuum impregnation - this technology is applicable only in industrial conditions, as it requires special equipment and certain skills;
- soaking - suitable for small items that are dipped into a heated mixture for several hours, then removed and dried;
- layer-by-layer application with a roller, brush, sponge - this way you can impregnate prepared surfaces of various sizes; this method is considered universal for all types of wooden materials and finishes.
It is important to remember that pure linseed oil is not suitable for external works, since it does not create an impenetrable, stable film on the surface. The coating made with its help is more decorative than practical value, and on outdoors quickly deteriorates under the influence of sun, wind and rain. To increase stability, turpentine, polymers and other components are added to natural vegetable fat.
Wood impregnation at home
Impregnating compositions from linseed oil are easy to prepare at home. The easiest way is to boil it twice. The portion required for one use is heated in a water bath until it boils, then cooled and boiled again. As a result of heating, unstable impurities are destroyed. When purifying raw oil, hydrofiltration is sometimes used: it is combined with water before boiling and then filtered.
To ensure the smoothness of the coating, extend the lifespan and increase water-repellent properties, beeswax can be added to homemade drying oil. If thick mastic is required, oil and wax are taken in a 1:1 ratio, for liquid impregnation - 2:1.
The bee product for wood processing is pre-crushed and combined with fat when heated, after melting it is mixed until completely homogeneous. The composition remaining after the work is stored in a cool place in a hermetically sealed container and heated if necessary.
When immersing wood, the mixture at a temperature of 60°C is poured into a steel or enamel container and the products are soaked in it for 2–3 hours. Then they are removed and the remaining oil is blotted off. soft cloth or paper and dry the items for 2–4 days. Finished surfaces polished with suede to a shine or varnished as desired.
Layering requires more effort and takes longer.
To work you will need:
- oil mixture;
- fine-grained sanding paper;
- sponge, brush or roller;
- clean rag;
- a piece of suede.
Fresh boards are thoroughly dried before processing; their moisture content should not exceed 15%. Impregnation is carried out in a dry room or outdoors in clear weather. All work is done with gloves.
- The material is sanded, smoothing out unevenness, cleaned of sawdust and wiped with a dry cloth.
- The composition heated to +60–70°C is applied along the fibers with a brush or other convenient tool. Dry, porous wood absorbs hot oil almost completely, so after the first application it usually requires a second application after 10-15 minutes. You need to carefully rub the oil into the finely porous material so that it does not spread and is evenly distributed over the surface. Stop work after the board begins to shine with varnish.
- The oil-coated boards are left alone for another 30 minutes, then the remaining composition is removed with a sponge, and the wood is left to dry. For drying oil, this period is on average 24 hours; if natural linseed oil without additives is used, drying can take more than 3 days.
- The second layer is applied to the products after the previous one has completely dried. The procedure is carried out similarly. Depending on the type of wood, it is necessary to apply not 2, but more repeated layers with a period of several days in order to achieve a dense, uniform outer layer.
- When the wood is completely ready and dry, it is polished with suede, achieving an even shine.
You can check the quality of the coating by applying a couple of drops of water to the surface. If after a few minutes the moisture remains in place, the wood has been impregnated well.
You can see what qualities impregnations based on linseed oil have in this video:
Linseed oil penetrates into the depth of the wood by 2–3 mm, which allows it to provide sufficient protective properties for several months. Impregnation can be renewed at any time after the coating ceases to perform its functions and begins to deteriorate.
Upon completion of work, all used materials - brushes, sponges, rags - must be immediately soaked in water, and rags and paper destroyed. Flaxseed oil oxidizes easily in air and can cause spontaneous combustion.
To ensure that the wood lasts a long time and does not rot, it is impregnated with a special wax oil, which serves as protection. Thanks to this treatment, the wood does not absorb moisture, does not crack, and mold and fungi do not appear on it. The material becomes resistant to fire, since the oil contains fire retardants that prevent burning.
What properties does wood wax oil have?
Wax oil improves the quality and appearance of wood, protects it from moisture, fire, mold, fungi and cracking. Beeswax contains various esters and fatty acids. This composition is not subject to oxidation, therefore it performs its functions long time.
Due to its high viscosity, the boiling point of wax must be high, and it is also a moisture-repellent agent. After covering, wooden materials have a beautiful shiny appearance and a perfectly smooth structure, which extends the service life of such products. Various oils are used to make wax; you can make this treatment yourself.
How to make wax using olive oil?
To prepare a wood treatment product, you need to take 2 tablespoons of wax and 7 olive oil. You need to crumble the wax, add oil to it, place the container with this composition in a water bath to dissolve, you can use microwave. Ready composition it is necessary to constantly stir until it reaches complete cooling, this is done so that the wax does not curl.
In order to change the consistency, you can use various additives, while controlling the amount of the main ingredients. Store the mixture in dark and warm places, in a closed glassware no more than one year. This composition can be used to treat furniture, floors and other products.
How to make wax using jojoba oil?
This composition can be used to coat wooden toys or children's furniture; it is safe for health. In order to prepare the mixture, you need to take 50 milligrams of beeswax and 150 milliliters of jojoba oil, you can also add other extracts and vitamin E. If a different volume of the main ingredients is used, then the ratio of wax and oil should be 1:3.
First, you need to finely crumble the wax, pour it into a bowl, and place it in a water bath; after melting, add oil. To prevent the wax from curdling, it must be constantly stirred until the mixture has completely cooled. This product is also stored in dark and warm places, in glass containers for up to two years.
How to make wax using linseed oil?
To obtain this composition, you need to take 2 tablespoons of wax and 5-8 linseed oil. The consistency of the mixture can be adjusted independently; if there is more wax, the product will be thicker. The wax should be finely crushed and placed in a water bath, then add oil. The composition must be constantly stirred until it cools completely.
Such means can be given specific color, using special additives. After application, this composition dries for a long time, so that this process goes faster by adding a drier. Store the mixture in a dark and warm place in a glass container for no more than a year.
How to properly coat wood with oil and wax?
To process wooden products, you first need to prepare wax oil, for this you need to take:
- beeswax;
- oil;
- melting container;
- soft brush;
- clean cloth for wiping the brush;
- You can use various other additives, as well as color shades.
First, it is necessary to prepare the surface to be treated, remove all dirt and stains, and, if necessary, perform additional grinding. After preparing the mixture, apply the composition to the product using a brush. thin layer, and leave for some time to soak. The mixture must be applied quickly so that the previous strokes do not have time to dry out and seams do not form. Wax clumps on the brush are removed with a clean cloth, this promotes even application and prevents the appearance of lumps.
Then, after the wax is absorbed, the surface to be treated is polished, this can be done using a special machine or cotton cloth, excess wax is removed, and the surface becomes smooth and shiny.
Benefits of wax oil for wood
Oil wax for wood has a number of advantages:
- The mixture is easily and quickly applied to wood surfaces.
- Such products are environmentally friendly, do not emit toxic substances, and are absolutely safe for health, since they contain only natural ingredients.
- Further renovation work can be done quite easily by re-applying the composition to damaged or replaced areas.
- Such surfaces do not require complex maintenance. It is enough to clean the surface with a special dirt remover, and then apply oil and wax again, this will help renew the wood and give it its original appearance.
- When preparing the composition, you can use not only transparent oil, but also various dyes, which makes it possible to give the surface required color.
- This composition hides all minor imperfections on the surface and prevents mechanical damage.
- The most suitable means For old-style surface treatment, oil wax is used. That is, with the help of such a tool you can create a surface that will suit any style.
Floors can be treated with such products wooden steam rooms in the bathhouse, furniture, and other products, they perform a protective function against moisture, fire, rot, cracks, mold and fungi. The main advantage of such compositions is self-cooking, this helps save on costs and give the surface an unusual, original look.
How to treat parquet with oil and wax?
The floors must be carefully sanded with sandpaper of different grits, first 20, and then from 36-150, it depends on the type of surface. It is also necessary to grind the side boundaries of the surface. If the paper has a small grain size, the pores of the wood will close and the composition will not pass through them.
Then the floor must be puttied, after which you can begin applying the prepared composition. Perform the work using a soft brush; remove wax oil clots with a clean cloth that does not leave lint. The surface is left to soak and polished using a special machine or cotton cloth, as a result of which excess product is removed and the surface has a smooth and shiny structure. To avoid stains on the surface, sanding is done carefully.
With this application, the structure of the old coating is restored, abrasions and minor defects are hidden, and the color becomes more saturated.
Technology of applying wax oil to a wooden surface
- First you need to check the fasteners; all caps must be deepened into the material up to 3 millimeters. These recesses are then treated with a sealant or wood putty. In this case, the color of the material and the board must be the same.
- If processing is planned old surface, then the previous coating must be removed. In case of significant defects, areas of the surface are replaced. Also, the caps of the fasteners must be deepened.
- Then the surface must be sanded using a grinder and a special nozzle, and you can also use sandpaper with different grain sizes. Do not use paper with too fine a grain, otherwise the pores of the wood will become clogged and will not be saturated with the necessary product.
- After this, the surface must be cleaned of any dust resulting from grinding.
- All discrepancies and other imperfections must be hidden using putty; it must be of a suitable color in order to avoid pronounced stains on the surface as a result. If such a primer is not available, then you can mix the collected wood dust with PVA glue and use this composition. Excess glue should be immediately removed from the surface with a damp cloth.
- Then a layer of wax oil is evenly applied over the entire surface using a soft brush. Remove hardened material from the brush using a clean cloth that does not leave lint.
- The surface is left to dry, this time depends on the oil used.
- At the end, a thorough polishing is carried out using a cotton cloth, excess wax is removed, all small scratches and defects are hidden, the surface is smooth and shiny.
This coating must be renewed, preferably twice a year. In this case, contaminants are removed from the surface using special means, and then the wax oil is reapplied. The surface is left to dry and polished using a special machine or cotton cloth. After such an update, the surface has its original shiny and smooth appearance.
Wax oil is well absorbed into wood covering and serves as its protection from moisture, rotting, cracking, and prevents the appearance of mold and fungi. Such mixtures are environmentally friendly, as they contain exclusively natural ingredients. You can add oil to the wax in a transparent form or give it the desired color to create a specific style. By treating wood with oil and wax, you can achieve an original surface that is resistant to minor mechanical damage.
Combination of oils and wax OSMO Oil for countertops
[ Click on photo
for increase ]
New - well forgotten old. In the CIS countries, where at the time Soviet Union mineral oils together with drying oil were the most affordable and popular means of protecting wood; oil for impregnating wood with the advent modern technologies experiencing its rebirth.
Mineral oils
Transformer oil was considered one of the best means for protecting wood in the USSR. Indeed, transformer (sometimes called spindle, which is not entirely correct) oil perfectly protects wood and is perfectly absorbed due to its low viscosity. All types of transformer oils contain antioxidant additives, which contributes to their durability.
Technologies
Protection of wood from biological influences
The most serious enemy wooden buildings are biological compounds. Among them, for example, mold, bacteria, fungi, algae, lichens, etc. can be noted.
Wood preservatives
Wood is durable and reliable building material, however, it is susceptible to fire and destruction when exposed to moisture, fungus, mold and insects
How to remove fungus from wood
In old houses on wooden walls, floors, furniture and other surfaces, various types of mold often appear, which are often also called fungus
Protection of wooden structures from rotting
Wood is susceptible to rotting due to factors such as changes in temperature, humidity conditions, etc. There are so-called house fungi that appear in unventilated and damp areas.
Wood is beautiful material, which is widely used in interior decoration. To preserve all its original qualities, it must be properly processed. For this purpose, wood oil is used for interior work. The features of such compositions should be carefully considered before use. This will allow you to carry out high-quality work yourself, giving the natural array the necessary appearance.
Features of the composition
Oil, wood wax for interior work allows you to protect wood from various negative influences environment. Also, such compositions allow you to perform decorative finishing natural arrays, give them an appropriate shade. The use of oils in wood processing is characterized by a number of advantages.
Such products increase the water resistance of the material. Wood also becomes resistant to the harmful effects of microorganisms and fungi. This extends the life of the finish.
The surface layers of the array become more durable. Mechanical damage appear on such surfaces much less frequently. Natural material after treatment with oil it becomes less susceptible to temperature changes. In this case, the composition can emphasize the texture of the wood. This increases the decorative qualities of the finish. It becomes practical and durable.
Varieties
Transparent and colored wood oil for interior work can be made from various raw materials. The fact is that not every oil of vegetable or mineral origin is capable of polymerizing at the required speed.
Most often, modern manufacturers make their impregnations from linseed and hemp oil. They contain a large number of components that allow the composition to quickly harden under the influence of certain external conditions. Tung wood oil is also suitable for impregnation. It is most often combined with other types of compounds. This significantly improves its performance characteristics.
Oils of mineral origin harden under the influence of hydrocarbon components. The presented compositions are practically not suitable for interior work. Some owners impregnate the wood to save money. mineral compounds, which were taken from a transformer or compressor. This significantly degrades the quality of work.
Today for processing wooden surfaces Only natural vegetable drying oil is used. This composition can provide high quality processing.
Effect of the composition on the surface
Wood processing oil for interior work may include a whole range of special additives. Their composition affects the properties of the impregnation. In total there are 4 groups of additives.
The first group includes oils whose components increase the strength of natural wood. These can be either multi-component oil formulations or wax-based products.
The second category includes impregnations that have an antiseptic effect. They are used for damp rooms where there is a high probability of fungus and mold appearing on wood surfaces. These oils contain natural or artificial antiseptics.
The third group included compounds in which polymerization was accelerated. If repairs are required in short time, this option will be the most acceptable. Indoors, the contact of wooden surfaces with oxygen and ultraviolet radiation (the main factors for hardening the composition) is limited. Therefore, it is advisable to use this group of impregnations.
The fourth group includes oils that change the decorative qualities of the surface. They contain special components. They provide the required surface color.
Reviews about manufacturers
Today on the building materials market there is big choice oils for processing natural solid wood. They differ in cost and quality. Experts do not recommend saving on the quality of the presented compositions. Cheap oils may not polymerize for a long time. During this time, the surface will become covered with dust and lose its decorative qualities.
Today, wood oils for interior work such as Tikkurila (price from 770 rubles/l), Belinka (price from 640 rubles/l), and Osmo (from 550 rubles/l) are in demand. Many manufacturers offer a large selection of such formulations. When choosing, you should take into account the surfaces for which the oil will be used.
If it is possible to take products treated with drying oil outside, you can give preference to cheaper compositions with a lower polymerization rate. If the array cannot be moved to Fresh air, they practically don’t hit him Sun rays, you need to purchase compounds with a high polymerization rate.
Application of impregnation
Having considered reviews of wood oil for interior work, choosing suitable composition, you can start using it. The material must be processed with high quality. The wood is sanded and cleaned construction waste. It should have a humidity of about 13%.
The first layer of drying oil is applied in the direction of the fibers of the array. It is important to apply the same amount of composition over the entire area. Otherwise, the coating will have a different shade. This is especially important to remember when applying oil to the ends. Here it is absorbed faster. However, the layer here should not be larger than elsewhere.
Application method
Wood oil for interior work can be applied to the surface different ways. If you need to process small area, use a brush or cotton swab. For relatively large wood masses, a roller can be used. If you need to treat many rooms that are large in size, it is better to purchase a special sprayer.
Shutdown
Wood oil for interior work must be rubbed properly. If the array has been roughly processed and there are no high demands on the quality of its finishing, this step can be skipped. For High Quality surface treatment, this procedure should not be neglected.
To grind drying oil, use cellulose napkins or cotton fabrics. Movements should be directed against the growth of the fibers. This will clog the pores of the wood, ensuring it reliable protection from adverse effects environment. This finish will last a long time, and its appearance will be aesthetic and will fit into the existing interior.
Having considered the features of wood oil for interior work, you can choose and apply the composition correctly. The quality of work will be high if the master takes into account the advice of professional builders.