Garden strawberries (traditionally called strawberries by the people) are a favorite delicacy not only of our children and grandchildren, but also of numerous insects that live in abundance on summer cottage. Mechanical destruction of these pests is not always possible; chemical remedies often have to be called in for help. In addition, the crop is susceptible to diseases leading to a decrease in yield or even death of plants. Safe for humans, but sufficient effective means for the fight can often be made from well-known substances.

The need to process strawberries

Calendula is a good insecticide for strawberries

Strawberry mites should not be left in the winter either. If you want to do without chemicals, you can water the garden bed several times a week with an infusion of onion peels. To do this, pour about 200 g of husk with a bucket of water, leave for 3-4 days, strain.

If various pests there is a lot, but the situation is not yet critical; immediately after the last berry picking, you can try to mow down all the leaves and burn them. Many people do this with 3-4 year old strawberry plantations anyway. It’s good if after mowing the sun fries the remaining bushes for several days. After this, you need to water the bed well, preferably with the addition of fertilizers: phosphorus and potassium. The foliage will grow back quickly and will be significantly healthier.

If there were a lot of rotten berries, after harvesting the bushes can be treated with mustard infusion (100 g per bucket of water, leave for 2 days, filter and dilute by half). If you are not too afraid of “chemistry,” you can take copper oxychloride instead of mustard and follow the instructions for the drug.

In case of powdery mildew, one of the best solutions is to spray with a solution of Topaz. Bordeaux mixture is very effective in the fight against fungal diseases.

How to process strawberries

The range of drugs for controlling pests and diseases on strawberry plantations is huge. Over time, new chemicals appear, and old ones multiply their names: many businessmen produce well-known drugs under their own name. Understanding what is being sold is becoming more and more difficult. Fortunately, in most situations you can easily do it yourself. known drugs, or even “home” remedies.

Ammonia is an aqueous solution of ammonia and has a strong, pungent odor. Ammonia dissolves in water at room temperature in a concentration of approximately 25%, which is quite a lot, and it is still dangerous to use such a solution in everyday life and at the dacha. If it gets on the skin, rinse it off immediately with plenty of water. But, as a rule, hardware stores sell less concentrated solutions.

Most often in open sale 10% ammonia solution is supplied

It is known that ammonia water (a highly diluted ammonia solution) is an excellent nitrogen fertilizer. But ammonia can also be used to prevent many diseases of garden plants. Most crops can be sprayed with it after flowering has ended. After treating strawberries with ammonia, ants, aphids, nematodes, and other pests do not appear on the beds for a long time. With regular spraying, you can also get rid of weevils, root nematodes, and chafers.

It is believed that during the season you need to treat strawberries with ammonia three times:

• the first treatment is in early spring, when green leaves grow. Take 40 ml per bucket of water ammonia(aqueous solution of ammonia with a concentration of 10%). Water the garden bed generously using a watering can. The solution should get onto both the bushes and the soil underneath them. At the same time, in addition to fertilizer, they get rid of fungal diseases on the leaves and pests that overwintered in the ground;
• the second treatment is after flowering. Use just a little ammonia for a bucket of water, only 2-3 tbsp. l. After abundant watering, the bed with strawberries is watered with the prepared solution using a watering can. This is protection against most diseases. In addition, the second treatment is also a timely nitrogen fertilization;
• the third time - after the harvest. The solution is used of the same composition as in the spring. This is exercise and prevention for the next season.

Iodine is a weak oxidizing agent, perfectly disinfects in most cases, and thanks to its antiseptic properties it can prevent the occurrence of various bacterial diseases.

Iodine can be used to prevent bacterial diseases

By watering strawberries with iodine solution in early spring, you can get rid of weevils, which can destroy almost the entire crop. You need to prepare a solution of only 0.5 tsp. pharmaceutical alcohol solution of iodine in a bucket of water. First, the bushes are watered abundantly with water, and then treated with the prepared solution.

Iodine is also used in strawberry beds to combat gray rot and red spot. Strawberries are sprayed 3 times per season: in early spring, before flowering and early autumn. You can add a little to the solution described above liquid soap(about 1 tsp) so that it sticks to the leaves better.

It is believed that iodine is an effective immunomodulator: after its use, not only increased productivity should be observed, but also improved bush health, as well as an increase in the shelf life of grown berries.

Hydrogen peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide (formerly called peroxide) has unique properties. In the fight against pests and diseases of strawberries, its oxidizing (disinfecting) ability is most important.

Most likely, you can only purchase a 3% peroxide solution. A 30% solution (“perhydrol”) is quite dangerous to handle.

Hydrogen peroxide consists of only two elements, but has unique properties

Hydrogen peroxide is used in summer cottages when treating greenhouses, various containers, and tools. The drug kills bacteria, viruses, pathogenic fungi. So what is better to choose for treating rot - peroxide or iodine? Actually, the choice is yours. Depending on what you have on hand. Peroxide leaves behind water and oxygen, iodine leaves behind potassium or sodium iodides. But their quantity formed after the addition of these drugs is so small that there is little point in paying attention to this aspect. And both drugs cope perfectly with their disinfectant task.

Hydrogen peroxide is probably the easiest and safest way to save strawberries from rotting. Should be dissolved in 1 liter of water 2 tbsp. l. hydrogen peroxide (in severe cases - up to 3 tablespoons). All strawberry plantings are generously sprayed with the resulting solution early in the morning or evening. The treatment is repeated after 1 week. This drug in the quantities used is completely non-toxic to both humans and bees. Therefore, you can pick and eat berries within a few hours after processing.

Bordeaux mixture is a suspension prepared from copper sulfate and lime (calcium oxide or hydroxide). When they interact, poorly soluble copper hydroxide and calcium sulfate are formed, so handling the finished suspension is somewhat more complicated than with a solution: the contents of the sprayer should be shaken periodically. As a rule, a kit is sold containing both components of the mixture, and often indicator paper to monitor the correct preparation of the liquid. First, according to the instructions, two solutions are prepared separately, and then they are carefully mixed, monitoring the acidity of the medium using an indicator. To create a neutral or slightly alkaline environment, add required amount lime (in the form of “milk of lime”).

Unappetizing-looking Bordeaux mixture is actually quite poisonous.

Bordeaux liquid, unlike pure copper sulfate, adheres well to plants and acts more gently and for a longer time. However, the mixture must be prepared strictly before use.

Bordeaux mixture is low-toxic for people, warm-blooded animals, and bees. However, it is known that copper, like any heavy metal, to put it mildly, does not improve a person’s health in higher doses. Therefore, in recent years, the concept has emerged that annual spraying of Bordeaux mixture leads to excessive accumulation of copper in the soil. Therefore, it is recommended to use copper preparations in a summer cottage only in case of urgent need, no more than once every few years.

A 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture for treating strawberries in early spring is used to prevent leaf spot. Later (closer to flowering, as well as in autumn), a 1% solution is used for this purpose. Dosage - approximately 1.5 liters of liquid mixture per 10 m2 of strawberry plantation. It is better to carry out the treatment after harvesting and clearing the beds of weeds and excess leaves. Spraying with this drug is carried out no more than 2 times per season.

Boric acid

Boric acid is weak, practically safe to handle, and cannot cause much harm to humans. This is a white powder, slowly dissolving in water, a valuable source of boron - an important trace element, therefore, it plays a role in the garden, first of all, as a fertilizer. This is especially important when cultivating strawberries on sod-podzolic and light soils. Spraying bushes in early spring with a solution of boric acid is very beneficial. There is an increase in the number of ovaries, boron stimulates the appearance of new growth points, and the berries become sweeter. The addition of boric acid can increase productivity, improve the sugar content of berries, and help protect plants from pathogens.

Typically, boric acid is used together with potassium permanganate (the well-known “potassium permanganate”).

Potassium permanganate is a strong oxidizing agent, and it should be used in the smallest possible quantities

So, in early spring, planting strawberries is spilled with a solution of boric acid and potassium permanganate - 1 g per bucket of water. This volume is for feeding 30–40 strawberry bushes.

For foliar feeding of strawberries in the spring, use the following composition: take 2 g of potassium permanganate and boric acid per bucket of water, 1 tbsp. stove ash. Only a useful “extract” is needed from the ash. Therefore, it is infused for a day in a separate container with water, not forgetting to stir from time to time. Before use, the ash infusion should be strained.

Ash

Ash is widely used as an individual “improvised” preparation. An aqueous “extract” from wood ash obtained from burning wood in a stove or on a fire is well suited for fertilizing strawberries.

Wood ash should be used as fertilizer, and not the kind that is formed after burning various household waste.

Ash contains most of the elements necessary for the development of strawberries (probably only nitrogen). These are phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and many microelements. In addition, wood ash is famous for its antibacterial and antiseptic properties. Thanks to the ash, the berries become sweeter and their shelf life increases. Ash can be scattered between the rows in the garden bed. The best time for this is the pre-rain period. After the rain, the most valuable things in the ash will pass into the soil. It’s a good idea to mulch the beds immediately afterwards.

Hot water

If you do not want to deal with chemical treatment of your strawberry plantation, you can try limiting yourself to physical treatment. The first thing that comes to mind is, of course, thermal disinfection. It is known that gooseberry and currant bushes are watered with almost boiling water in early spring. This destroys most pests and pathogenic bacteria. Of course, with strawberries this is dangerous: after all, they come out of winter with green leaves! Therefore, they do not take boiling water, but just hot water.

In the first ten days of April, strawberry plantations are watered with hot water (temperature 60–65 o C, best checked with a thermometer). They heat the water, of course, not far from the beds, scoop it up using any convenient container and quickly pour it into the center of the bush, capturing all the leaves if possible. Hot processing destroys the larvae of the transparent mite, raspberry-strawberry weevil, sawflies, mites and nematodes. Water, having passed through the soil to a depth of several centimeters, cools to about 30 o C, so there is no need to fear that the strawberry roots will be damaged.

Hot water also helps when planting strawberries. With its help you can for preventive purposes disinfect seedlings (whiskers). To do this, immerse the seedlings in water heated to 45 o C and hold for 15 minutes.

Fire

This looks like barbarism, but there are also such fighting techniques on the Internet.

10 days after harvest, the mustache begins to actively grow. I wait another 4 days, when the soil in the rows and between the rows dries, I cut off all the leaves and tendrils with pruning shears, and remove the weeds. At the same hour, the previously kindled powerful blowtorch I burn the ground and completely burn the leaf stalks remaining after cutting to ash. I put the cut leaves and weeds into compost. I also burn strawberry hearts; they are not afraid of being treated with fire for 10-20 seconds if they grow at or near the ground level. Only those that have crawled out of the ground so that the roots are visible will be lost.

Postnikov P.

http://chudo-ogorod.ru/zemlyanika-obrabotka-i-udobreniya

Remedies for weevils

They begin the fight in the spring, for which all damaged fragments of the bush must be carefully collected and destroyed. In early May, the plantation is treated with long-acting biological preparations (Iskra, Askarin). Protection of plants from the pest continues for several weeks. In case of severe infestation, a second treatment is performed in the fall. At the same time, powerful insecticides are already used, such as Karbofos, Corsair.

If you do not use chemicals, it is much more difficult to fight the weevil. Basic techniques:

• treating bushes with hot water in early spring;
• during the budding period - spraying with a solution of laundry soap and mustard;
• manual collection of insects;
• spraying with infusion of tansy or red capsicum;
• using good “neighbors” in the garden: onions, garlic;
• treatment with tobacco-garlic infusion or infusion of celandine and onion peel.

Video: how and with what to process strawberries

We have been waiting all long winter for a harvest of vitamin plants to finally appear in our garden bed. And in June the holiday comes: strawberries are ripe - a juicy, sweet, aromatic berry. But besides us, competitors are also waiting for it - garden pests. It is up to you to decide what means to choose to combat them. In most cases, earn the right to wonderful harvest Strawberries can be grown without the use of toxic drugs.

30.08.2017 11 938

Caring for strawberries after harvesting - what not to forget to do?!

An important component of good and tasty fruits next year is caring for strawberries after harvesting now. Processing, pruning, fertilizing, watering, loosening should not be left aside, because it is after the berries are picked that the most important and crucial period for the plant begins - the laying of new fruit buds. Therefore, you simply must help your plants in the garden. How to do this correctly and when exactly, read on.

What to do with strawberry bushes in July and August?

Active care for Victoria in August begins in July, after harvest, and continues almost until frost. To get large and sweet fruits next year, you need to provide proper care to the plant now and prepare the beds for winter. It is during the period after picking the berries that a wave of formation of young leaves, tendrils and the formation of new horns begins, which accumulate all the microelements necessary for the future harvest. Caring for Victoria includes the following steps:

1. pruning strawberries after harvest
2. loosening the soil
3. feeding bushes
4. antennal removal
5. treatment against diseases and pests

Pruning bushes after harvest

Many gardeners wonder whether it is possible to prune strawberries in September and October? No, you can’t, the procedure must be carried out immediately after harvesting. Otherwise, you may be left not only without a harvest, but even without bushes. To overwinter well, the crop needs to grow new leaves and lay future harvest before the frost arrives.

Once the fall cleanup is complete and the old foliage begins to die back, the plant must focus all its energy on preparing for the winter. In general, the main purpose of pruning is to destroy existing diseases and pests, provided that all trimmings are burned or destroyed and not sent to the compost heap. Therefore, whether to trim or not is up to you. It is worth noting that if garden strawberries bear fruit for the first year, it is better not to prune them.

In addition, first of all, all bushes older than 5 years that will no longer bear fruit should be removed and replaced with new young ones. The crop needs to be trimmed or mowed almost to the ground.

After trimming the leaves, you must loosen the soil between the rows to a depth of 10 cm. Be careful near the bushes, you can damage the roots of the plant. The bushes themselves should be hilled up so that the adventitious roots are covered with soil.

Require special consideration newly formed strawberry mustache. At the end of July or in August, root the regrown tendrils of the first year berries. In plants from two to four years old, the tendrils must be trimmed as they appear; they will only interfere with the formation of new buds. In addition, two-year-old bushes are the most fruit-bearing in comparison with three-year and four-year-old bushes. Please note that we are talking about ordinary varieties of garden strawberries, as they have their own characteristics of cultivation and care.

Five-year-old bushes must be simply and mercilessly removed; the harvest from them will be small, and the plant takes up a lot of space in the garden. Therefore, it is not worth trimming the leaves before wintering. If you notice brown spots, curled young leaves, or insects, it means there is a need to treat the plants, because they are the main enemies of a generous harvest!

Treatment of strawberries from diseases and pests

In September and autumn, strawberries need to be sprayed against infections and pests. Carefully inspect your plantations; most often, garden strawberries suffer from the following ailments:

• Strawberry mite– its appearance is indicated by yellowed, deformed leaves; treating the bush after harvesting with karbofos (3 tablespoons per bucket of water) will help get rid of the pest; various acaricides help a lot: Actellik, Kleschevit, etc.
• Spraying with karbofos will relieve strawberries from strawberry weevil, this insect overwinters in the soil and feeds on the leaves and buds of the bush
• Discover spider mite not so difficult. Its appearance is indicated by the presence of cobwebs on the foliage. If a mite is detected early, it is better to remove all foliage from the plant after harvesting. Use the drug Fitoverm to combat ticks, diluting 2 ml per liter of water
• Gray and black rot determined by the presence of spots of the corresponding color on the sheets; the plantation can be cured by treating with a solution of copper oxychloride (30 g per 8 liters of water)
• Powdery mildew looks like gray plaque, while the foliage curls, rots, and as a result, falls off. Spraying with a solution (100 g of colloidal sulfur in 10 liters of water) will relieve this disease
• Brown spots indicate the appearance brown spot, the plant must be cleared of old foliage and soil moisture adjusted. Severely damaged copies will have to be removed. The attack is treated with the following composition - 60 grams of copper oxychloride, diluted in a bucket of water or Bordeaux mixture (1%). You can spray strawberries with potassium permanganate (a weak solution), the drugs Ridomil, Skor, Horus are also used
• Remove brown and white spot Treating strawberries with iodine helps. To do this, make a mixture in proportions of 10-15 drops per 10 liters of soap solution. Experienced gardeners especially recommend carrying out this treatment in the spring, adding a glass of whey to the mixture. According to observations, the homemade composition protects plants from fungus and bacteria

Advice: To prevent your strawberries from getting sick, when preparing the bushes for winter, spray with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture using a shower head for a watering can. Spraying strawberries with brilliant green is also effective (1 drop per liter of water). Horse sorrel will make strawberry beds strong and resistant to diseases and pests. To do this, fill half a bucket with chopped sorrel and fill it to the top with water (without chlorine). Let it brew for 2-3 days and water the strawberries with the resulting solution at the rate of 0.5 liters per 1 bush.

Fertilizing strawberries in autumn

How to feed strawberries for the winter? In September - October, strawberries are fertilized with fertilizers that contain phosphorus and potassium, without nitrogen. Fertilizers are applied to the ground by watering or mixed with the soil when loosened. Fertilizing strawberries with ash will be an excellent folk remedy for fertilizer. It must be scattered in small quantities around the bushes of plants (a small handful). Ash is good source phosphorus and potassium, which is so necessary for plants to strengthen for the winter.

What else can you feed strawberries for the winter? Various mineral fertilizers are sold in stores; if desired, it is easy to make the composition at home with your own hands to prepare a nutrient mixture for 1 sq.m. landings will be needed:

• 30 g superphosphate
• 10 g ammonium nitrate
• 10 g potassium sulfate

After applying dry mineral fertilizers for strawberries in the fall, the ground should be well watered and ensure that the soil does not dry out completely (especially in regions such as the Astrakhan region, Krasnodar region, Adygea, etc.). After each watering, loosen the soil and weed out weeds. To conserve moisture and prevent the appearance of crust on the surface of the earth, the bushes of the plant can be covered with straw or peat.

You should be careful when using strawberry fertilizers that contain chlorine, as the plant does not tolerate it. For the winter, experienced summer residents recommend fertilizing the soil with humus or compost, spreading it evenly over the garden bed, trying not to cover the hearts of the plants. In addition, it is an important moment in the life of the plant. Especially if winters are snowless and frosty in the growing region.

Caring for Victoria is an important component for the formation of juicy, large and healthy berries for the next year. So, after picking the berries, the work for summer residents and gardeners is just beginning!

Previously, only strawberries were grown in Russia - a fragrant and tasty berry, but small and not very productive, so today this plant is almost never found in garden plots. It was replaced by large-fruited strawberries, brought by sailors to Europe from America. One of its varieties, called “Victoria,” began to spread with particular speed, and soon all strawberries began to be called Victoria. To get a rich harvest of tasty and healthy berries, you need to know the rules for planting and growing Victoria in open ground areas.

Victoria landing time

The best time to plant strawberries is spring or autumn. In the spring, plants are planted as early as possible - immediately after warm weather sets in and the threat of return frosts disappears. In autumn, Victoria should be planted from the second half of August until September 15, and then next season the plantings will be pleased with the first berry.

Seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in cassettes or containers, can be planted as early as mid-July. The main thing is to choose a cloudy day for planting and moisten the soil well. Seedlings planted in summer will have time to take root well before winter and will produce a full harvest next spring.

Some gardeners grow planting material personally, although it is long and labor-intensive process. After all, it will take at least three years to obtain a full-fledged independent plant. Therefore, experts advise buying seedlings from well-known nurseries, and preferably in cassettes or containers. This is the most reliable and quick way growing crops.

Site selection

The area allocated for Victoria should be sunny and have a flat surface with a slight slope to the southwest. You should not choose to plant this crop steep slopes, from which the winter wind blows snow away, and spring waters carry away part of the fertile layer. Lowlands and depressions where melt water lasts for a long time are unsuitable for growing strawberries.

The soil on the site should contain a lot of organic matter. It is best to grow this berry in open ground Light loams, black soil or gray forest soil are suitable. Groundwater should lie no closer than 1 m to the surface of the earth.

Victoria is growing well after herbs, cereals, onions, garlic, petunias, marigolds. You should not plant berries in beds where tomatoes, eggplants, and cucumbers previously grew. After 3-4 years, the plants are transferred to a new location.

Spring planting

For spring planting of Victoria, the soil must be prepared in advance, even before the start of winter. The area must be carefully dug up, weeds must be removed and the following fertilizers must be applied to each square meter of area:

• humus - 9-10 kg;
• superphosphate - 100 g;
• potassium salt - 50g.

Seedlings for planting in spring must be selected that are strong and healthy. Before planting in the ground, it should be hardened for several days by placing it in a cool place.

Between plants located in the same row, leave 25-30 cm. To ensure ease of care, the beds are separated by passages 40-50 cm wide.

Before planting, the roots of the plant are cut to 10 cm and holes are dug to such a depth that the root system fits vertically. Special attention When planting Victoria, you should pay attention to the location of the neck of the bush.

The neck of the bush should be flush with the soil surface. If planted high, the roots may dry out, and if planted too deeply, the plant may rot.

The planted plant is watered abundantly and covered special material for protection against frost or sunburn.

Planting in autumn

Autumn planting of strawberry seedlings is considered optimal, since in the spring of next year a full harvest can be harvested from young bushes. Plants planted in early spring will also begin to bear fruit the following season, but they will have to be cared for all summer.

Before autumn planting, the site should be processed and prepared in early spring, adding the necessary fertilizers. If every piece of land in the garden is valuable, these beds can be temporarily occupied for onions, garlic or celery, that is, early-ripening vegetables.

Before planting seedlings in open ground, the roots should be treated with a fungicide (fungicide) and young plants should be kept in a cool place for several days.

Growing Victoria

In the first year after planting Victoria in the ground, do not strive to get a large harvest. On the contrary, in order for the plant to strengthen and grow its root system, it is necessary to remove the tendrils and flowers that appear.

Caring for adult plants involves a number of activities.

1. Processing the area with strawberries. In early spring, as soon as the growing season begins, it is necessary to collect old mulching material from the beds and between rows, remove dry and damaged leaves, and loosen the soil between the plants.
2. Watering. Large juicy fruits cannot be obtained without proper, balanced watering. There should be enough moisture for normal plant growth, but at the same time, severe waterlogging of the soil can cause rotting of the root system. Water Victoria once every 10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 square meter. m starting from mid-April. IN summer period, with the onset of heat, the frequency of watering can be increased to 4 times a week. In autumn, in August and September, the number of waterings is reduced to 2 times a week. Carry out watering work better in the morning, trying not to get water on the leaves and peduncles. During flowering, drip irrigation is used.
3. Loosening. After the next watering, the soil around the plants and between the rows must be carefully loosened, trying not to damage the adventitious roots lying near the surface of the earth. This is necessary in order to make the soil breathable and facilitate the flow of oxygen into the root system.
4. Weeding. Caring for plantings involves regularly removing weeds from beds and walkways. Weeds not only deplete the soil, taking away most of the moisture and nutrients, but are also a breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria and a haven for pests. To stop the appearance of weeds, you can cover the planted area with mulching material: sawdust, wood chips, dry pine needles, or cover it with agrofibre.

These are the main activities that should be carried out regularly by every gardener involved in growing Victoria in open areas.

Care during flowering

The appearance of the first flower stalks occurs in mid-May. It is during this period that the future harvest is laid, the quality and quantity of which depends on proper care. To feed the plants during this period, potassium fertilizers, humus and ash are added to the soil. You can increase the number of inflorescences using a solution of boric acid prepared at the rate of 1 tsp. onto a bucket of water, which is used to spray green bushes.

It is especially important to weed and loosen the area, preventing the appearance and growth of weeds. To get a large berry, you need to use pruning shears to remove all the excess tendrils and leaves that absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil.

Feeding Victoria

It is impossible to imagine caring for Victoria without feeding this plant. Fertilizers should be applied at least three times per season.

• Early in the spring, after processing the area allocated for berries, nitroammophoska is added to the soil. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are part of this fertilizer, are the most necessary substances for plant development.
• During budding, potassium is added to the soil, a large amount of which is contained in ash, infusion of chicken manure, and potassium nitrate. After picking the berries, the plants are again fed with nitroammophoska, dissolving 2 tbsp. l. in 10 liters of water.
• And the last time Victoria is fed with urea is in August. This promotes the formation of new flower buds and more abundant fruiting next year. The solution is prepared at the rate of 30 g of urea per 10 liters of water.

There is a complex fertilizer on sale, developed specifically for strawberries and increasing yield by 30%.

Growing Victoria is incredibly useful and interesting activity, although it requires certain skills and knowledge. Having studied the advice of experts and providing proper care for plants, it will not be difficult to get decent harvest this delicious berry.

The best time to plant a new bed of strawberries is considered to be the end of May, since the young seedlings will have time to get stronger over the summer and turn into strong bushes. For those who expect to get the first harvest in May, it is recommended to plant Victoria in the fall.

Strawberries reproduce by rooting tendrils that form on the bushes in mid-summer. Young climbing shoots with leaf rosettes at the ends are slightly grounded and take root near the mother bush, and in August-September they are separated and transplanted to a prepared bed. Planting Victoria in the fall is optimal due to its suitable weather conditions, since in the first half of September it is no longer hot, quite humid and far from frost. In addition, a rainy day does not at all prevent the establishment of a new bed, but promotes better rooting of strawberries.

Proper planting of Victoria is carried out in well-prepared soil. For a new garden bed, it is better to choose a place that is cleared of onions, garlic, dill, spinach, lettuce and other greens in mid-summer. Peas or beans are considered good predecessors, and at the same time green manure. You can grow other green manures for strawberries; it is advisable to choose those that grow quickly and form sufficient vegetative mass - phacelia, oilseed radish, mustard, rapeseed and others. By the time the mustache takes root, the grown green manure will already become an excellent organic fertilizer.

Instead of green manure, you can fertilize the strawberry bed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers and add compost. Before planting, it is recommended to dip the roots of the seedlings in a solution of mullein diluted in a ratio of 1:3. The approximate planting scheme for Victoria is 30x60 cm, where 30 is the distance between the holes, and 60 is between the rows. You can plant 2-3 rooted shoots in each hole to eliminate empty spaces in case of failure.

Otherwise, planting Victoria in the fall is done in the same way as in the spring. It is important to choose the correct depth of the hole so that the root system is completely hidden underground, and the growth bud is on the surface of the soil. The young bed needs to be watered properly and the soil between the rows must be loosened. Be sure to mulch with sawdust or straw to protect against cold weather and the first frosts.

Victoria can be planted on agrofibre in the fall. To do this, the soil with ready-made holes is covered with a special fabric that allows moisture and air to pass in, but prevents moisture evaporation. The agrotextile fabric is secured by driving in pegs, cuts are made at the locations of the holes, where the plants are carefully placed along with the soil on the roots. We water the young bed.

Agrofibre protects strawberries from certain pests, prevents the appearance of weeds, and most importantly, it will reliably protect Victoria in winter, acting as a reliable insulation. Strawberries grown using agrotextiles are always clean and look appetizing, they are easy and convenient to pick - just mulch the rows of the bed with sawdust.

In the spring, you need to take care of the young bed: remove last year's withered leaves, loosen the soil, mulch with sawdust to protect it from possible frosts.

Collect a lot of large berries peeking through the carpet lush green foliage and exuding a wonderful aroma - the dream of any summer resident. Its execution is within the power of every owner personal plot, you just have to take into account the features that Victoria planting has and properly care for the plants. They will certainly thank the caring owner bountiful harvest. Under the proud name “Victoria” lies the familiar strawberry. Initially, only one of its varieties was called this way - the one that sailors brought to Russia from America. Over time, there were more varieties of strawberries, among them there were remontant ones, capable of bearing fruit from 3 to 5 months a year. But in some areas the name has taken root so much that it has become a household name.

Requirements for the site and soil quality

To grow Victoria in the garden, you should choose an open place that receives the most sunlight. Strawberries develop well on flat areas or areas inclined at a slight angle to the west. Required condition for plant health – reliable protection of plantings from the wind. In spring and summer, it is not terrible for Victoria, but in winter it can blow snow off strawberries, which protects them from freezing.

You can count on a rich harvest if the crop is grown on light, soft, porous soils with a significant admixture of sand. Victoria is moisture-loving, but it reacts poorly to stagnant water, so it needs well-drained soil. Damp, swampy lowlands are absolutely not suitable for growing strawberries. It is not recommended to plant it in areas prone to flooding and in places where water from melted snow stands for a long time in the spring.

Remontant Victoria is demanding on soil fertility; it must contain a lot of humus. The ideal option for it is black soil or dark gray forest soil. But even in other conditions, strawberries can develop successfully if you properly care for their bushes. Heavy clay soil, which retains moisture, will need to be diluted with manure or humus and sand. The procedure is carried out in the fall. Soil with an acidic reaction must be limed.

You should not plant Victoria in areas where last season there were any plants from the Asteraceae family (sunflower, earthen pear, lettuce, asters, chrysanthemums). It is undesirable, but it is possible to breed it after all nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants), as well as cucumbers. But the areas freed up after harvesting cereals, legumes (beans, peas), cabbage crops (radish, radish, mustard), garlic and parsley are very good for Victoria. Before planting, they must be dug up, enriching the soil with fertilizers. On 1 m² of surface it will be correct to apply:

• 2 buckets of humus;
• 2 liters of wood ash.

Strawberry seedlings and a nutritional composition of the following components will provide the necessary organic and mineral substances:

• ammonium nitrate (20 g);
• superphosphate (25 g);
• potassium salt (20 g);
• humus (6 kg).

Preparing for landing

With regard to planting dates, Victoria provides gardeners with ample opportunities. It is propagated from spring to autumn. Professionals advise planting strawberries at the end of April or in May, when warm weather has already set in. If you provide young bushes with proper care, in the spring they will quickly take root in a new place, will be less sick and will bear the first berries in June.

For planting, the strongest rosettes with a powerful root system are selected.

It will be easier to care for Victoria if the area for it is prepared in advance. In the fall, they dig it up, select weeds, and apply fertilizer. Remontant strawberries can delight you with berries from May to October, but for stable fruiting they will need a lot of nutrients. Therefore, in the spring, the soil is re-enriched with rotted manure (10 liters of substance per 1 m²). This is done 17–20 days before planting.

Autumn propagation of Victoria should be carried out from the second half of August to the first ten days of September, when the likelihood of frost is minimal. While it is warm, the plants will have time to take root and withstand the cold. Caring for strawberries at this time will not be burdensome; you just need to plant the rosettes in the soil prepared in advance - from June. If a remontant variety of crop is chosen for breeding, its characteristics must be taken into account. Constant fruiting greatly weakens the plants, so young bushes of such Victoria often die in the first year of life. You will have to take care of them more carefully.

Landing rules

Most often, strawberries are bred with tendrils, which the bushes produce by mid-summer. Young shoots of Victoria emerge from the nodes located on them. Experienced summer residents It is advised to plant rosettes that are closer to the mother bush - the first 2-3. Shoots obtained from 2-year-old plants have the highest survival rate.

When 4-6 leaves appear on the rosettes, they are separated from the tendril, carefully removing the roots along with the earthen lump, and placed in a hole previously spilled with water. The depth of the hole is usually 10-15 cm. It can vary depending on the degree of development of the underground part of the plant. For mature bushes with powerful and long roots, it is better to make deeper holes. To make it easier for remontant strawberries to take root in a new place, before placing them in the garden bed, their roots must be dipped in a clay mash. It is prepared by mixing two components with water until creamy:

• 1 bucket of clay;
• ½ bucket of mullein.

It will be easier to care for your plantings if you place the strawberry bushes in rows. Many summer residents prefer to fill them with unique ridges up to 10 cm in height. The distance between neighboring plants should be 30-40 cm, and the interval between the rows should be 60-70 cm. Soil is poured into the hole, a Victoria bush is lowered onto it and its roots are carefully straightened in different directions. Then the hole is filled with soil. It is correct that the root collar of the bush rises slightly above the ground or is level with it. The soil is lightly compacted and the hole is watered generously.

When planting, you can add special preparations to the hole to promote rapid rooting.

Garden remontant strawberries respond well to soil mulching. A layer of dry grass, leaves, algae, hay, small straw, and pine needles will help maintain the level of soil moisture required by the crop. After planting, it is recommended that they cover the space under the plants and between the rows. Care carried out in the spring in the form of mulching will have a positive effect on the yield of Victoria: strawberries will bear more berries, and they will ripen faster.

Features of agricultural technology

Growing Victoria will not require any special skills, but you will have to pay attention to planting. Caring for them includes standard procedures:

• watering;
• weeding;
• mulching;
• feeding;
• loosening.

Both remontant and ordinary strawberries are sensitive to drying out of the soil, reacting to it with a decrease in yield, so they are moistened often. You can significantly increase the period of time between waterings if you regularly loosen the soil, mulch the beds, and carry out snow retention measures in early spring. Care in the form of moisturizing Victoria is required from 4 to 10 times per season, depending on weather conditions. The end of summer and the beginning of autumn is an important period in the life of plants: flower buds are formed. If you do not water the plantings at this time, hopes for good harvest It’s better not to lay it down next year.

During the Victoria season, at least three complex feedings are required. mineral fertilizer. Organic formulations are also suitable for her. Experienced gardeners recommend using mullein diluted in a ratio of 1:10. It is better to pour it on moist soil. Two feedings are carried out in the spring: after harvesting withered leaves and when the first flower stalks appear. At this time, plantings require intensive care, the correctness of which determines the quality and quantity of the harvest. To enhance flowering and increase the number of ovaries, strawberries are sprayed with an aqueous solution of boric acid. They do this while there are no buds on the bushes yet. When the flower stalks emerge and the berries begin to set, they are treated with zinc sulfate.

To get larger berries, Victoria's mustache is cut off during the ripening period.

After the plantings have faded, they do not stop caring for them. The distance between and under the plants is mulched with straw, sawdust or dry moss. This measure will prevent gray rot from damaging the crop. Having collected the last berries from the bushes, they begin the third feeding. After this, the soil is loosened well. If plant roots poke out of the soil, it is necessary to hill up the plantings. On the eve of autumn frosts, another mulching is carried out using peat, humus or grain waste. They are laid in a thick layer, at least 5-8 cm. To protect the strawberries from freezing, dry leaves and straw are thrown onto the beds or covered with spruce branches.


It is impossible to resist the tasty and healthy Victoria berries, which is why its cultivation has become a tradition for most summer residents. They are good not only fresh; there are plenty of recipes for winter preparations from garden strawberries. There are compotes, jams, jams, preserves, jellies, and marmalade. Victoria fruits can be dried, frozen, sealed in their own juice, and made into syrups, liqueurs, and wine. They are combined with other fruits and berries - red currants, gooseberries, apricots, peaches, raspberries.

Strawberries cannot be called a capricious crop, although you will have to spend time and effort caring for them. But they will definitely pay off. If you follow simple recommendations, you can harvest from the bushes already in the first or second year of their life, depending on the chosen variety.

Garden strawberries, often called Victoria, have gained wide popularity and distribution in gardens in various regions of the country. This is due to the ease of its propagation, the early ripening of the crop, the convenience of protection from harsh winter weather conditions, and the high dietary and taste qualities of the berries. Many gardeners annually receive high yields of Victoria, having mastered its agricultural technology well.

Soil and planting site for Victoria

The plant must be planted on a piece of land with a slight slope to the west. There must be a place protected from winds. After all, in winter, Victoria is protected from frost by snow, which means that under no circumstances should it be blown away by the wind. A bare berry may freeze and die. It is advisable to choose sandy loam soil rich in humus.

Others are being added to it fertilizers. It is better to apply fertilizers in the fall, scattering them evenly and digging them with a shovel. In spring, shallow loosening is necessary in order to level the surfaces and cover moisture. For one square meter of soil where strawberries will be planted, you will need:

• twenty grams of potassium chloride;
• twenty grams of ammonium nitrate;
• twenty-five grams of superphosphate;
• six kilograms of humus.

It is best to alternate planting Victoria with vegetable crops. The best precursors for this berry are: green plants (dill, parsley, lettuce), legumes, garlic, onions, root vegetables. And it is not advisable to plant it after potatoes, as the plant may become infected with a nematode.

Reproduction and planting

By mid-summer, adult Victoria plants grow tendrils, on which are located nodules that will produce roots and leaves in the future. Victoria reproduces with the help of such antennae. The three rosettes located on the mother plant are considered to be of higher quality. When four to six leaves appear on such a rosette, it should be separated from the mother plant for planting in a permanent prepared place. In order for the plant to take root quickly and well, it is necessary to dig out rosettes with a lump of earth.

Many gardeners plant strawberries in beds ranging from eighty to one hundred centimeters wide and up to fifteen centimeters high. The edges of such beds can be edged with boards, and the passages can be filled with sawdust.

Victoria is planted throughout the growing season from the beginning of spring until the middle of the last month of summer. Planting dates are determined by the readiness of the sockets.

For spring, rosettes are grown in seedling beds or dug in near the mother bush. In this case, Victoria will bear fruit already in this year, albeit insignificantly.

Very common ribbon two-row planting pattern. In this case, the distance between the rows in the tape is approximately forty centimeters, between the tapes themselves up to eighty centimeters, and between the plants from twenty to thirty centimeters. In this case, up to ten plants are placed on one square meter.

The density of planting depends on the Victoria variety and growing conditions.

Before planting seedlings, you should dig grooves or holes up to ten centimeters deep and water them well. Then plant the seedlings in them and water them thoroughly again.

It is best to plant in cloudy weather or evening hours. This improves survival rate.

In order to properly care for young Victoria seedlings, you should not forget them on time water. During the first two weeks, watering should be especially regular. If the weather is dry, then watering should be daily, and only then once every two or three days.

How to care for mature Victoria bushes

Spring chores

How to care for Victoria in the summer

1. Weekly watering of plants.
2. Weeding beds with Victoria from weeds.
3. Mandatory inspection of plants for diseases and pests.
4. When the first berries begin to set, be sure to add straw or sawdust. Then the fruits will not get dirty and rot.
5. It is necessary to remove damage to parts of the Victoria or the damaged bush itself so that other plants do not become infected from it.
6. Before flowering, fertilize with a solution of nitrophoska or potassium sulfate.
7. Berries must be picked regularly, along with the stem.
8. After harvesting Victoria, until the tenth of August, you should feed the bushes with wood ash and nitrophoska.
9. Cover the beds with film during heavy rains so that diseases do not develop and the berries do not become watery.
10. The tendrils of fruiting Victoria should be removed in a timely manner to prevent the rosettes from taking root. The tendrils are left only if seedlings are needed to resume planting. Leave them near the mother's rosettes.
11. After harvesting, the soil is loosened, and if the roots are exposed, the bush is hilled up.

Autumn work or preparing Victoria for winter

Protection from pests and diseases

An important role in caring for Victoria is its protection from diseases and pests. The most common pests in Victoria are the strawberry mite and the nematode. And among diseases: gray rot of berries, powdery mildew and white spotting of berries. But how to care for Victoria to prevent this? To prevent such diseases and pests you should:

Any gardener will sooner or later want to plant strawberries on his plot. But how to care for Victoria to get a good harvest?

This question worries many gardeners who planted this berry crop on their plot for the first time. Is this plant difficult to care for? At first glance it may seem so. However, if you consider some basic recommendations for caring for Victoria, it turns out that this task is not so difficult. Of course, it may be difficult at first, but with a little practice, you will become a guru in growing strawberries. And in this article you will receive comprehensive answers to important questions about the agricultural technology of this berry crop.

How to plant Victoria

So, let's consider the first question - how to plant Victoria? The answer to this is important, since it is the planting of strawberries that affects the quality of the future harvest.

To understand how to plant strawberries, you must first briefly consider the structure of its bushes. Take a look at the photo attached just below. As you can see, there is a main, uterine bush. Thanks to him, the propagation of berry crops is possible. Whiskers extend from the main strawberry bush. Rosettes appear on these shoots - future fruit-bearing bushes. Over time, this rosette will also turn into a mother bush.

Important! For propagation, choose those shoots that have no more than three rosettes. This will ensure stable growth of each bush, which will also affect the quality of the fruit.

As soon as the rosette begins to form, immediately carefully stick its roots into the soil. This way you will provide the plant with constant nutrition of important vital elements. After some time, when the bushes have formed, they can be planted. It is worth noting that each mother bush can produce up to 15 good rosettes. This means that you don’t have to constantly buy seedlings, and you will always have your own.

Memo. Victoria should be planted in mid-summer (July). Many gardeners advise choosing the evening time of day for this: in this case, the plant will undergo night acclimatization.

What bushes can be planted in the ground? Will all sockets fit? No, you only need to plant those seedlings that have formed a root system, have several leaves and a developed heart. Therefore, if you are buying sockets, then pay attention to all these factors, so as not to be upset later because your plant is not accepted. In the same case, when you have your own uterine bush, then before you carefully tear off the rosette from the mustache, make sure that it matches this description. Before planting the plant, carefully straighten its roots.

Of no small importance is the location chosen for planting Victoria. The berry crop develops well on sandy, slightly acidic and loamy soil. Don't forget to saturate the soil with humus and important nutrients. The plant cannot be planted in clay soil (it will die) and sandy soil is not recommended (the harvest will be small).

Reminder! Do not plant strawberries in beds adjacent to peppers, tomatoes and potatoes. Also, you should not plant seedlings near trees: their root system will interfere with the development of Victoria. But the proximity to corn and sunflowers will be very useful - they will protect the berry crop from the winds.

The plant doesn't like high humidity, low temperature and cold winds. Such weather conditions adversely affect the productivity of the variety: the harvest will be small, and the fruits themselves will become small and diseased. But warm and sunny places will ensure that Victoria will bear fruit abundantly with large and beautiful berries.

How to water Victoria

Strawberries are considered a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, are there any special recommendations on how to water Victoria? It turned out that yes.

In the first month after planting, the plant needs to be watered in the holes. After 30 days, the bushes are irrigated by filling the beds with water. It turns out that it is from this period that Victoria begins to receive moisture abundantly. In this case, many gardeners do not reinvent the wheel, but simply bring the end of the hose to the garden bed and fill it to the top. Yes, you shouldn't be greedy with water. For such generosity, Victoria will give you her large, pleasant-tasting fruits. But you can find out what to do with this bountiful harvest here.

How often to water Victoria

It is clear that strawberries need plenty of watering. But still, how often to water Victoria so as not to harm the plant?

In spring, strawberries begin to grow rapidly. If you do not give it the necessary moisture during this period, then you should not be surprised that the berries are small and dry when ripe. Watering continues almost until mid-autumn. In the spring and autumn seasons, strawberry bushes should be irrigated once a week. This should be done in the morning and preferably warm water. In the summer season, Victoria needs to be watered at least twice a week, and if the days are hot, then it can be done every other day. At the same time, we must not forget to fertilize the plants with liquid subcortex.

The spring season is the most labor-intensive. It is at this time that strawberries need special care. Therefore, how to care for Victoria in the spring?

You have just finished eating frozen strawberries when spring comes to your yard, and with it it’s time for you to go out to your garden. Where to begin? First, carefully inspect your beds. Remove all frozen plants without regret: there is no place for them to take up space in the beds. Dead leaves must be removed from living bushes.

After carefully examining the bushes and removing the dead ones, proceed to the next step: remove upper layer the land with which you mulched Victoria last year. Why is this being done? Firstly, various pests live in this layer and have taken refuge here from the cold, and secondly, the root system will begin to receive additional heat from the rays of the sun.

When you have completed all these procedures, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as your bushes are pleased with new leaves, then immediately “feed” your plants with a solution of mullein with the addition of ammonium sulfate. And when May comes, Victoria should receive a portion of complex mineral fertilizer.

So, all the main work has been completed. The gardener is waiting for his fruits. But how to grow a large Victoria, because every gardener wants to get a special trophy?

In fact, a lot depends on the gardener himself, or rather on whether he will help Victoria in its fruiting. What is it about? Again about fertilizer. And it doesn’t matter what you are doing - trying to grow cherries from seeds or wanting to get a large Victoria fruit - correct and timely fertilizer will play a key role in these matters.

Make it a rule to fertilize your plants not only in the spring (as discussed above), but also before flowering and ripening. In the first case, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with bird droppings. The solution is prepared as follows: one bucket of litter is filled with three buckets of water. The liquid should stand for three to five days. The resulting solution is diluted 1 to 20 and the grooves between the beds are watered with it. And before ripening, Victoria should be fertilized twice: with boric acid and zinc sulfate. Thanks to all these actions, you can expect a bountiful and large-fruited harvest.

In addition to the information in the article, you can listen to the advice of one of the gardeners on how best to care for strawberries:

How to properly grow Victoria in the garden

Garden strawberry is a plant that is called strawberry, and sometimes Victoria, because this variety is the most revered among others due to its excellent taste and quality.

If you don’t know how to grow Victoria, choose a strawberry variety based on the climate of your region. Victoria propagates by rooted bushes that form on the stems of shoots.

From this article you will learn how to grow Victoria in the garden, as well as how to plant Victoria in the spring.

The time to grow Victoria must be chosen taking into account the climate of the area where you will plant it. If your region has little snow and frosty winters, then it is better to plant Victoria in the spring. Then the plants will be able to get stronger over the summer. If your area has a milder climate, then you can postpone planting Victoria until the fall. If you want to get a harvest in the first year, then you can plant young plants in the ground in July or August.

How to plant Victoria correctly?

In order for the plant to develop quickly and produce a good quality harvest, you need to grow Victoria in a well-consecrated area in a place where the soil is light and not swampy. Potatoes, peppers or tomatoes must grow on this soil for several years. If you want to plant Victoria in the spring, then the soil needs to be prepared in the fall. And when planting strawberries in summer or autumn, it is enough to prepare the soil one to two weeks before planting.

You need to dig up a plot of land, removing the roots of perennial weeds, beetle larvae and wireworms. Otherwise, they will damage the roots of garden strawberries and it is better to get rid of this problem in advance. Next, you need to improve the soil structure, add several kilograms of fertilizer and add sand to the soil.

Victoria should be planted in spring in damp, cloudy weather. The prepared bed should be watered quite generously a couple of days before planting.

How to grow Victoria in the garden?

When planting Victoria in the spring, you must separate the rooted rosettes from the shoots. It is important to dip the exposed roots of the rosettes in a mixture of heteroauxin, water and clay. Strawberries should be planted in rows, at a distance of about 60 cm from each other. You also need to leave a gap of up to 30 cm between the bushes. Before planting Victoria, you need to straighten the roots of the plant and sprinkle them with soil so that the growing point does not end up below the soil level.

After these steps, be sure to water the bed and sprinkle the soil with a layer of sawdust. If you have non-woven mulching material, you can spread it on the bed before planting and then secure the edges. Where the Victoria is located under the mulching material, you need to cut holes.

If you want to get a rich harvest of garden strawberries or Victoria several times a season, then you need to grow a remontant variety of Victoria. In this species, fruits are formed in just two to three weeks. At the same time, the first harvest can be obtained from last year’s inflorescences, and the second, most abundant, in August-September.

Victoria is a fairly heat-loving plant. A sharp drop in temperature in autumn can cause the entire above-ground part of the plant to freeze, especially in the absence of snow cover. And severe freezing of the soil can even cause the death of roots.

Soil for Victoria

There is nothing complicated about how to plant Victoria correctly. To grow Victoria, you can choose almost any soil in your garden plot. However, there is, of course, a connection between yield and soil type.

Planting Victoria seedlings

Before planting, seedlings must be kept in a cool place for five days.

The best soil for growing Victoria is moist, but not wet soil.

During planting, it is important to ensure that the box with seedlings is in the shade at all times.

If you did everything correctly, the root system will be located vertically, and the root collar will be at ground level.

Excessively long roots should be shortened to 10 cm, and then Victoria should be watered.

To prevent crust from forming on the top layer of soil, it should be mulched with dry soil or humus.

It is important to ensure that the row spaces are not overgrown with weeds, so the area under the Victoria plant must be cleared of pathogenic bacteria and pests. Currently, the most popular is plant protection in the form of entomophagous insects.

Caring for Victoria

Caring for Victoria in the garden involves loosening the beds and weeding. This must be done in dry weather. And after harvesting, the leaves need to be removed and the Victoria should be trimmed. The process of pruning on productive bushes that are several years old occurs without removing strong shoots with young rosettes. These sockets can be used to update the Victoria next year.

Weeding Victoria is an important stage in its cultivation and care, since this is what guarantees the appearance of high-quality berries of good taste and large size. If your strawberry rows become overgrown with weeds and the soil is hard, your strawberries may degenerate and stop producing fruit. So, be sure to take care of your Victoria - water, weed the rows and destroy the weeds, monitor the condition of the garden to avoid the appearance of larvae.

How to grow Victoria

Victoria – a delicious victory with little secrets

Greetings, dear readers!

One of the first varieties of well-known garden strawberries is the Victoria berry. Victoria fruits have an extraordinary aroma and look beautiful and appetizing on a plate. Victoria is a berry that has many valuable properties and contains nutrients. It contains vitamin C. The name Victoria is very suitable for this berry. To feel Victoria - victory - you need to see a well-groomed bed of beautiful berries. And for this you need to properly care for the plant.

Let's talk about how to grow Victoria in the garden plot.

Victoria reproduces with a mustache. They usually appear by mid-summer. For further cultivation, plants use rosettes located next to the mother bush. Whiskers from two-year-old plants work best. You need to plant a rosette with four leaves on the ridge, separating it from the general plant.

Victoria bushes are planted in spring or autumn. But at the same time, the area for planting is prepared in advance. For spring planting, the beds are prepared in the fall, and for autumn planting - in June, not forgetting to fertilize the soil. It is advisable to plant Victoria on level ground with a slope in a westerly direction. IN winter time Snow should accumulate on the site so that the Victoria bushes do not die. In this regard, the bed must be positioned so that it is not blown too much by the wind.

In order to plant bushes, it is necessary to make holes in the prepared bed into which the mustaches, dug out along with a lump of soil, are placed. This must be done immediately, without leaving the outlet for the next days.

The Victoria berry is susceptible to infection with gray rot. to prevent this disease, the soil on the ridge is mulched wood shavings or straws, 10 cm thick. This does not cover the leaves of the plant. When the harvest is harvested, the soil around the berry bushes must be loosened. When the roots are exposed, the berries are hilled up; regular weeding of Victoria is the key to obtaining a good harvest.

Before flowering, in order to prevent gray rot, it is necessary to spray with iodine solution.

Special requirements apply to watering bushes. Moderate watering of the plant will allow you to preserve a large amount of vitamin products. Without additional moisture, Victoria will grow if you cover it with snow in winter, carry out high-quality weeding, and do timely and regular loosening of the soil.

For today that's all about how to grow Victoria Location on.

Don't miss the opportunity to enjoy Victoria berries. Its taste is gone, but its benefits are immeasurable. When consumed, carefully rinse the fruits under running water. You can use garden strawberries for fasting days due to their low calorie content. Drinking a decoction of berries and leaves will help you lose extra pounds.

See you later, dear friends!

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Proper care of Victoria - a rich harvest

Correct caring for victoria will allow you to get a rich harvest, from planting and watering to harvesting. It is no secret that Victoria has many beneficial properties, not to mention its excellent taste. A rich harvest is the result of proper care for Victoria.

Garden strawberries, which are usually called “Victoria”, are a very tasty and aromatic berry. In fact, Victoria is just a variety of strawberry. Caring for strawberries and Victoria has some features and differences.

Victoria landing

Victoria needs to be planted on a flat area with a slight slope to the west.

It is necessary that the planting area be well protected from the wind, which in winter, blowing snow off the plants, can cause their death from frost.

Victoria grows best on sandy loam soils containing large amounts of humus.

Victoria reproduces by mustaches that grow by mid-summer. From the nodes located on the tendrils, new shoots grow - rosettes of leaves and roots. The first 2-3 rosettes from the main plant are considered the most suitable for propagation.

The most suitable are mustaches from two-year-old bushes. When 4-6 leaves form on the rosette, it should be cut off from the tendril and, together with a lump of earth, planted in a prepared hole in a permanent place.

Victoria is usually planted in spring or autumn, with preliminary soil preparation. If spring planting is planned, then the soil should be prepared in the fall; if it is autumn planting, then the site is prepared in June.

6 kg of humus and mineral fertilizers are added to the dug up soil per square meter: potassium salt and ammonium nitrate, 20 grams each, plus 25 grams of superphosphate. In order to make it convenient to care for the plants, they are planted in rows like ridges, up to 10 cm high. Between the bushes, 20 -30 cm should be left, with a row spacing of 60 -70 cm.

Victoria care and watering

caring for victoria

Victoria is very picky about care and watering. If you regularly carry out work to conserve moisture by loosening the soil, mulching, snow retention, and removing weeds, you can do without watering. But when watering it up to 10 times per season, it is possible to obtain a more generous harvest.

After flowering has finished, the soil in the garden bed is mulched with wood shavings, straw or dry moss. This protects the berries from damp rot.

In mid-autumn, you need to do a second mulching with peat or grain waste. The mulch thickness should be 5-8 cm.

After harvesting, you should loosen the soil around the bushes. When the roots are exposed, the plant must be earthed up. Important role To get a good harvest of strawberries, weeding is also important.

Nice and timely caring for victoria will delight you with the resulting harvest of berries, which are indispensable in the treatment of kidney and liver diseases, and diabetes. Victoria berries promote blood formation, increase productivity, and strengthen the immune system.

Read also about remontant varieties of Victoria. as we often call it, or simply strawberry.

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How to plant Victoria correctly

How to grow Victoria in the garden | How to plant Victoria in spring

Garden strawberries are a plant that is called strawberry, and sometimes Victoria, because this variety is the most revered among others due to its excellent taste and quality. If you do not know how to grow Victoria, choose a strawberry variety based on the climate of your region. Victoria reproduces by rooted bushes that form on the stems of shoots. From this article you will learn how to grow Victoria in the garden, as well as how to plant Victoria in the spring.

How to grow Victoria in the garden?

In order to grow Victoria you will need:

• rotted compost; heteroauxin; mulching material.

The time to grow Victoria must be chosen taking into account the climate of the area where you will plant it. If your region has little snow and frosty winters, then it is better to plant Victoria in the spring. Then the plants will be able to get stronger over the summer.

If your area has a milder climate, then you can postpone planting Victoria until the fall. If you want to get a harvest in the first year, then you can plant young plants in the ground in July or August. In order for the plant to develop quickly and produce a good quality harvest, you need to grow Victoria in a well-lit area in a place where the soil is light and not swampy.

Potatoes, peppers or tomatoes must grow on this soil for several years. If you want to plant Victoria in the spring, then the soil needs to be prepared in the fall.

And when planting strawberries in summer or autumn, it is enough to prepare the soil one or two weeks before planting. You need to dig up a plot of land, removing the roots of perennial weeds, beetle larvae and wireworms. Otherwise, they will damage the roots of garden strawberries and it is better to get rid of this problem in advance.

Next, you need to improve the soil structure, add a few kilograms of fertilizer and add sand to the soil. Victoria should be planted in the spring in humid, cloudy weather. The prepared bed should be watered quite generously a couple of days before planting. When planting Victoria in the spring, you must separate the rooted rosettes from the shoots.

It is important to dip the exposed roots of the rosettes in a mixture of heteroauxin, water and clay. Strawberries should be planted in rows, at a distance of about 60 cm from each other. You also need to leave a gap of up to 30 cm between the bushes.

Before planting Victoria, you need to straighten the roots of the plant and sprinkle them with soil so that the growth point does not end up below the soil level. After these steps, be sure to water the bed and sprinkle the soil with a layer of sawdust. If you have non-woven mulching material, you can spread it on the bed before planting and then secure the edges. Where the Victoria is located under the mulching material, you need to cut holes.

How to plant Victoria in spring?

If you want to get a rich harvest of garden strawberries or Victoria several times a season, then you need to grow a remontant variety of Victoria. In this species, fruits are formed in just two to three weeks.

At the same time, the first harvest can be obtained from last year’s inflorescences, and the second, most abundant, in August-September. Victoria is a fairly heat-loving plant. A sharp drop in temperature in autumn can cause the entire above-ground part of the plant to freeze, especially in the absence of snow cover.

And severe freezing of the soil can even cause the death of the roots. There is nothing complicated about how to plant Victoria correctly. To grow Victoria, you can choose almost any soil in your garden plot. However, there is, of course, a connection between yield and soil type.

The best results can be achieved if Victoria is grown on podzolized chernozem soils or on dark gray soils of medium and light composition.

On peat, light gray and soddy-podzolic soils, the harvest will be much less rich.

Groundwater should lie at a depth of at least 60-70 cm.

Slopes facing the southwest are best suited for planting Victoria, since the growing season begins earlier on them and the berry crop ripens faster.

The acidity of the soil should be almost neutral.

The eternal enemy of not only potatoes, but also Victoria is the Colorado potato beetle. Therefore, before planting Victoria in the ground, it should be checked for the presence of wireworms and May beetle larvae.

How to plant Victoria correctly?

What should you do with Victoria in SPRING, EXACTLY IN SPRING?

My mother wants to plant Victoria, what should I do with it in the spring? Tell me please. In one source they say the antennae need to be trimmed, in another it is not necessary, with loosening it’s the same. 3 years ago from Katya

Without further ado, fertilize and loosen the soil, plant and water. Do not touch the mustache for the first year.3 years ago from

For example, you have already harvested radishes, space has become free, and you can safely plant strawberries on it, after adding a small amount of compost. Ash is also a necessary fertilizer for strawberries. But it is better to apply it the next year after planting.

Planting strawberries. Usually strawberry seedlings are planted at a distance of 30-40 cm. There is another interesting and effective method planting, which is known to many professional gardeners.

It is as follows: strawberry bushes are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm. While they are small, they have enough space, and they develop well until next year. At the moment the berries ripen, it is easy to select diseased and weak rosettes.

Those bushes on which very few berries are ripe can also be removed. As a result, you are left with only strong and healthy specimens. Unusual beds - strawberry hedges.

To create a fence you will need a plastic pipe, a metal pipe and a metal rod. Metal pipes play the role of racks, brackets are made from rods, and “beds” of plastic pipes are installed on them.

A container bed is made very simply: you need to make holes in a plastic pipe for planting, using a drill with an attachment. The side holes must be closed with plugs, which are sold in the store. Soil is poured into the pipe and strawberries are planted.

There are many advantages to this planting option. Firstly, it is unusual and beautiful. Secondly, saving space on your summer cottage. Thirdly, the bed can be used as a hedge for a flower bed.

Fourthly, it is very convenient to pick berries, which, moreover, do not spoil from contact with the ground. For the winter, such beds need to be removed from the brackets and buried in a small trench, sprinkled with leaves or covered with spruce branches.

Strawberries reproduce by tendrils, on which new rosettes grow. Planting material is taken from one- and two-year-old plants. The rosettes can be separated when 1-3 leaves and tendrils of at least 10 cm have formed. It is necessary to make a separate bed with light soil.

To do this, peat and sand are added to the soil in the ratio: 1:2:1. Rosettes are planted in mid-June in shallow furrows. The distance between the bushes should be 8-10 cm. After about a month, the strawberries are ready to move to a permanent place.

Replant together with a lump of earth. If planting is carried out in the fall, then it should be done in early September. You can also grow strawberries from seeds, which need to be sown in April in boxes with fertile, loose soil. The soil must be shed with a solution of manganese for disinfection.3 years ago from ELENA POLYAKOVA

How to care for Victoria?

Victoria is one of the famous varieties of garden strawberries. Due to the wide distribution of this variety, the name is firmly attached in everyday life to garden strawberries in general. In order for the harvest of this berry to please you with quantity and quality, you need to know how to care for Victoria correctly.

How to properly care for Victoria

Watering Victoria

Victoria is very demanding when it comes to care and watering. If it is not always possible to water it, then it is necessary to carry out work to preserve moisture in the soil. Loosening the soil, covering the ground with snow, timely removal of weeds, and mulching can help you with this.

As a rule, watering strawberries 9 - 10 times per season allows you to get a rich harvest. Can be used for watering garden watering can without a nozzle and carefully water directly under the root of the plant.

How to care for Victoria in the fall

After the flowering season, the soil must be mulched with dry moss, straw or wood shavings. This simple procedure will protect the berries from infection with gray rot.

Closer to mid-autumn, it is necessary to re-mulch using grain production waste or peat. The thickness of the mulch layer should be about 5 - 8 cm. When mulching, remember that Victoria leaves should not be covered.

After harvesting, it is necessary to loosen the compacted soil around the plants. If the roots of the plant are exposed, it must be earthed up. To maintain good productivity, Victoria beds must be weeded regularly.

When weeding, you can use mini-hoes and garden rippers.

How to care for Victoria in spring

In order to ensure flowering of the bushes and active berry set, Victoria bushes can be treated with boric acid in the spring. And before flowering and during the ovary period, it is useful to treat Victoria with zinc sulfate. Also in the spring, after harvesting the leaves, you can fertilize the soil.

Victoria landing

Propagation of Victoria strawberries occurs with the help of mustaches that grow on the plant by mid-summer. On these tendrils there are nodes from which leaves and roots actually grow.

Two or three rosettes located near the mother plant are considered to be of the highest quality for propagation. It is better to take tendrils from plants of the 2nd year.

After 4-6 leaves appear on the rosette, it needs to be separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a prepared place. In order not to damage the roots, the rosettes must be dug out together with a lump of earth and planted in prepared and spilled holes. Victoria is planted in spring or autumn.

For more comfortable planting in spring, the soil must be prepared in the fall (dig up, harrow). If you decide to plant Victoria in the fall, then you can prepare the site in June. Also, when preparing the site, it will not be a bad idea to apply fertilizer. For good growth and development of Victoria, it is necessary to apply per 1 m2:

• 20 g ammonium nitrate 25 g superphosphate 6 kg humus

To ensure comfortable access to plants when watering or weeding, it is better to plant Victoria in even rows of small ridges of earth 7 - 10 cm high. The distance between the rows should be about 60 - 70 cm, and between two planted plants - 20 - 30 cm. For more detailed information For ideas about planting Victoria, you can watch a video for beginner gardeners.

Selecting a site for planting

It is best to plant garden strawberries on a flat area that has a slight slope to the west. This feature of the surface of the site will allow the strawberry leaves to receive more sunlight in the afternoon.

It is also advisable that the site be protected from the wind. Victoria feels most comfortable on sandy loam soils with a high humus content. Any gardener will sooner or later want to plant strawberries on his plot.

But how to care for Victoria to get a good harvest? This question worries many gardeners who planted this berry crop on their plot for the first time. Is this plant difficult to care for?

At first glance it may seem so. However, if you consider some basic recommendations for caring for Victoria, it turns out that this task is not so difficult.

Of course, it may be difficult at first, but with a little practice, you will become a guru in growing strawberries. And in this article you will receive comprehensive answers to important questions about the agricultural technology of this berry crop.

How to plant Victoria

So, let's consider the first question - how to plant Victoria? The answer to this is important, since it is the planting of strawberries that affects the quality of the future harvest. To understand how to plant strawberries, you must first briefly consider the structure of its bushes.

Take a look at the photo attached just below. As you can see, there is a main, uterine bush. Thanks to him, the propagation of berry crops is possible. Whiskers extend from the main strawberry bush.

Rosettes appear on these shoots - future fruit-bearing bushes. Over time, this rosette will also turn into a uterine bush. Important! For propagation, choose those shoots that have no more than three rosettes.

This will ensure stable growth of each bush, which will also affect the quality of the fruit. As soon as the rosette begins to form, immediately carefully stick its roots into the soil. This way you will provide the plant with constant nutrition of important vital elements.

After some time, when the bushes have formed, they can be planted. It is worth noting that each mother bush can produce up to 15 good rosettes. This means that you don’t have to constantly buy seedlings, and you will always have your own. Memo.

Victoria should be planted in mid-summer (July). Many gardeners advise choosing the evening time of day for this: in this case, the plant will undergo night acclimatization. What bushes can be planted in the ground? Will all sockets fit?

No, you only need to plant those seedlings that have formed a root system, have several leaves and a developed heart. Therefore, if you are buying sockets, then pay attention to all these factors, so as not to be upset later because your plant is not accepted.

In the same case, when you have your own uterine bush, then before you carefully tear off the rosette from the mustache, make sure that it matches this description. Before planting the plant, carefully straighten its roots. The location chosen for planting Victoria is also important.

The berry crop develops well on sandy, slightly acidic and loamy soil. Don't forget to saturate the soil with humus and important nutrients.

You cannot plant the plant in clay soil (it will die) and sandy soil is not recommended (the harvest will be small). Reminder! Do not plant strawberries in beds adjacent to peppers, tomatoes and potatoes.

Also, you should not plant seedlings near trees: their root system will interfere with the development of Victoria. But the proximity to corn and sunflowers will be very useful - they will protect the berry crop from the winds. The plant does not like high humidity, low temperatures and cold winds.

Such weather conditions adversely affect the productivity of the variety: the harvest will be small, and the fruits themselves will become small and diseased. But warm and sunny places will ensure that Victoria will bear fruit abundantly with large and beautiful berries.

How to water Victoria

Strawberries are considered a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, are there any special recommendations on how to water Victoria? It turned out that yes. In the first month after planting, the plant needs to be watered in the holes.

After 30 days, the bushes are irrigated by filling the beds with water. It turns out that it is from this period that Victoria begins to receive moisture abundantly. In this case, many gardeners do not reinvent the wheel, but simply bring the end of the hose to the garden bed and fill it to the top.

Yes, you shouldn't be greedy with water. For such generosity, Victoria will give you her large, pleasant-tasting fruits. But you can find out what to do with this bountiful harvest here.

How often to water Victoria

It is clear that strawberries need plenty of watering. But still, how often to water Victoria so as not to harm the plant? In spring, strawberries begin to grow rapidly.

If you do not give it the necessary moisture during this period, then you should not be surprised that the berries are small and dry when ripe. Watering continues almost until mid-autumn. In the spring and autumn seasons, strawberry bushes should be irrigated once a week.

This should be done in the morning and preferably with warm water. In the summer season, Victoria needs to be watered at least twice a week, and if the days are hot, then it can be done every other day. At the same time, we must not forget to fertilize the plants with liquid subcortex.

How to care for Victoria in spring

The spring season is the most labor-intensive. It is at this time that strawberries need special care. Therefore, how to care for Victoria in the spring? You have just finished eating frozen strawberries when spring comes to your yard, and with it it’s time for you to go out to your plot.

Where to begin? First, carefully inspect your beds. Remove all frozen plants without regret: there is no place for them to take up space in the beds.

You need to remove dead leaves from living bushes. After carefully examining the bushes and removing the dead ones, proceed to the next step: remove the top layer of soil that you used to mulch the Victoria plant last year. Why is this being done?

Firstly, various pests live in this layer and have taken refuge here from the cold, and secondly, the root system will begin to receive additional heat from the rays of the sun. When you have completed all these procedures, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as your bushes are pleased with new leaves, then immediately “feed” your plants with a solution of mullein with the addition of ammonium sulfate. And when May comes, Victoria should receive a portion of complex mineral fertilizer.

How to grow a large Victoria

So, all the main work has been completed. The gardener is waiting for his fruits. But how to grow a large Victoria, because every gardener wants to get a special trophy? In fact, a lot depends on the gardener himself, or rather on whether he will help the Victoria in its fruiting. What is it about?

Again about fertilizer. And it doesn’t matter what you are doing - trying to grow cherries from seeds or wanting to get a large Victoria fruit - correct and timely fertilization will play a key role in these matters. Make it a rule to fertilize plants not only in the spring (as discussed above), but and before flowering and ripening.

In the first case, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with bird droppings. The solution is prepared as follows: one bucket of litter is filled with three buckets of water. The liquid should stand for three to five days.

The resulting solution is diluted 1 to 20 and the grooves between the beds are watered with it. And before ripening, Victoria should be fertilized twice: with boric acid and zinc sulfate. Thanks to all these actions, you can expect a bountiful and large-fruited harvest. In addition to the information in the article, you can listen to the advice of one of the gardeners on how best to care for strawberries:

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We grow Victoria: three kilograms per bush

Irina Lebedeva, an accountant by profession and a gardener by vocation, has been growing Victoria for 40 years. But even with such experience, it is recognized that the results are different and depend on weather conditions, seedlings or seeds.

That is why he does not like to experiment and plants exclusively early varieties. She inherited a plot of 12 acres in the village of Krasnoye from her parents. There she and her husband Sergei Vladimirovich spend every summer.

During this time, up to 3 kg of berries are collected from one bush. Moreover, the berries are large in size - about the size of a child’s fist. “Victoria, or, scientifically speaking, large-fruited garden strawberries, is one of my favorite berries,” says Irina Alexandrovna. - Despite the fact that there is not so much space on the site, I allocated 3 beds for her, so that there would be enough not only for fresh food, but also for making preparations for the winter.

When and where to plant- I usually plant in early May. I believe that the earlier it is planted, the better it develops. I plant in the evening so that the strawberries can acclimatize overnight. - It’s better to prepare the beds in the fall, and immediately start planting in the spring.

Strawberries love a sunny, open place. It is advisable to direct the garden bed from south to north. It is in this arrangement that she makes the most of solar energy. Try not to plant it under an apple or cherry tree. Soil moisture is another important factor.

If groundwater close, then the bed needs to be raised to 30-35 cm to prevent root rotting. In dry places, the beds are low - 8-10 cm. It is better to plant seedlings grown using the Frigo technology in the spring (read more about it on our website).

Grown by tendrils or seeds, if the plant’s roots are strong, it can be planted right now so that the plant is ready for the drop in temperature in September. Plants planted now need to be fed with microelements for berry crops, for example “Gumi-omi”. You can treat the beds with special chemicals to prevent diseases and pests, for example “Fufanon”, “Ordan”, “Abiga-Pik”.

How to plant- I make the distance between the rows 60 cm, and between the plants in the row - 20 cm. I make the depth of the hole for the entire length of the root. I dip the root of the plant in a solution of mullein or humus with soil. I add 1 tbsp to the hole. l. "Agrovit-Kora" or a pinch of "Kemira-Universal".

I plant it so that the growing point is at soil level. Shallow or, conversely, deep planting leads to the death of plants or to their poor development.

After planting, I water it with water - 250 ml per plant as the soil dries. - First of all, we note that the key to a large harvest is high-quality, healthy planting material. In our case, this means a developed root system of at least 15 cm and a small rosette of leaves.

The distance between plants should be a little larger than Irina does: between rows - 70 cm, and between plants in a row - 30 cm. When it is planted less often, it gets sick less often, gives more harvest, and the distance promotes ventilation and good lighting. First, weeds are removed from the garden bed, then they are leveled and holes are made depending on the size of the root, that is, along its entire length.

Then compost (a couple of scoops), ash (half matchbox per hole) and some earth. This whole mass is mixed, watered and only then the strawberries are planted.

Then they are covered with soil and watered again. Before planting on a summer cottage, you need to draw up a plan and observe crop rotation. That is, alternate certain crops in the beds.

Strawberries can be planted after any predecessors, except nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, petunia, tobacco). But you can’t plant it next to raspberries, because they have the same pests.

Before the formation of flower stalks, you need to water with a watering can, and after they appear - with a ladle under the root. The maximum yield of strawberries is the first two years, and then the yield declines, and the risk of pests increases. You can plant strawberries in the same bed where they grew after 2 seasons.

Before that, you can plant garlic or mustard, which will improve the health of the soil. You can also grow strawberries where legumes were planted the previous season. How to prepare for winter?

In the fall, when the temperature reaches 2-5C, I cover the bed with Agrotex (covering material). And in the spring, when the snow melts, I remove it. - Each summer resident has his own way of mulching (coating the soil with a protective layer) of strawberries - mowed lawn grass, sawdust from deciduous trees, hay.

But one of the tools that will save the gardener from unnecessary trouble is Kostravit-M1 mulch. It protects the soil from overheating, retains moisture longer, protects from pests and suppresses the growth of weeds. Mulch will also save strawberries from freezing in winter.

The recommended thickness of the mulch layer is 1.5-2 cm in spring, and 3 cm before winter. Which varieties to choose? This year Irina Alexandrovna did not have many berries, but they were all very large, about 8 cm in length.

The owner believes that this is the merit of the variety, which has not let her down for the 2nd season. Despite the dimensions, the taste does not become worse.

The main varieties that Irina Aleksandrovna uses are “Gigantella” and “Festivalnaya”. All varieties are divided into 4 groups: early, medium, late date maturation and remontant. It all depends on the preference of the summer resident, what kind of strawberries he wants to see on his plot. Early varieties ripen at the end of June - these are “Kimberly”, “Corona”, “Olvia”.

The berries are sweet, large, bright red, winter-hardy. The medium berries ripen in early July - “Rusich”, “Black Swong”, “Vima-Zanta”, “Zenga-Zengana”. Berries from 20 g, sweet and sour taste, average winter hardiness. Late - in mid-July - “Vima Tarda”, “Vikoda”, “Charlotte”.

The berries are medium size, sweet and sour taste, good winter hardiness. Remontant garden strawberry. She gives berries a little at a time, but all summer long. Also, their peculiarity is that the berries are larger and sweeter than those of ordinary varieties.

Blooms from May to October: “Vima-Rina”, “Geneva”, “Moscow delicacy”, “Brighton”, “Queen Elizabeth II”. How to reproduce? Irina Aleksandrovna propagates strawberries with mustaches.

Just now I transplanted it to the bed where the onions grew. “This method has many disadvantages, although it is easy to use. After 3 generations, the berry begins to lose its properties.

They become smaller, the taste deteriorates, productivity declines, and susceptibility to disease increases. The next drawback is the transfer of diseases from bed to bed.

The strawberries on which gardeners leave tendrils spend their energy not on laying fruit buds, but on feeding their young shoots. To avoid these problems, it is necessary to update the planting material, that is, take seedlings of the first reproduction. They give maximum yield.

Seedlings of this class can be found today. Sellers must have varietal certificates confirming this. There is another modern way - new technology frigo (translated as “cold”).

Throughout the summer, farmers grow strawberries in open ground in their nurseries. During this time, she is not allowed to give away the harvest, and her mustache is removed. Then the strawberries are dug up, the leaves are cut off, and the seedlings are stored in the refrigerator.

And in this state it is stored until the moment when it needs to be planted. To us, in Udmurtia, frozen roots are brought from a Dutch nursery in the spring. After planting it, gardeners receive a guaranteed harvest within two months.

You can make an application for the purchase of seedlings of 1 reproduction using Frigo technology by calling the Agricultural Academy 55-02-07 (average price - 25-35 rubles per seedling). How to care? Twice a season, Irina Aleksandrovna makes liquid fertilizer for strawberries.

The first time - in May, before flowering, and the second time - in early July, after harvesting. - For liquid feeding of strawberries, I use fresh chicken manure. I water the beds well a few hours before fertilizing.

Then, in 10 liters of water, I carefully stir a portion of fresh chicken manure at a rate of 1:10 and water it evenly from a watering can. After harvesting, I remove all weeds, loosen the soil around all the bushes and cover them with a small layer cow dung to fertilize the soil.

I do not use any chemicals. - Experts advise feeding strawberries in the spring with nitrogen fertilizers in accordance with the instructions on the package (for example, AFK 16-16-16, 10 grams per square meter). But don't overdo it.

They also recommend regularly adding a complex of microelements for berry crops, for example “Gumi-omi”. After harvesting, the harvest can be treated with special chemicals to prevent diseases and pests, for example “Fufanon”, “Ordan”, “Abiga Peak”.

How to get rid of pests Irina Aleksandrovna is sure that pests do not touch Victoria, because every three years she transplants it to a new place. The main pests of strawberries are the larvae of the May beetle (Khrushchi). When digging the beds, you need to remove the larvae manually.

Another method of control is to cover the beds during the flight of beetles in May with covering material, film or roofing felt. Another enemy of strawberries is nematodes - small worms. It is very difficult to fight them. The main way– compliance with crop rotation.

Eliminate the bed after 3-4 years of fruiting and burn the remains of the plants. You can get rid of them with a folk remedy - pour a decoction of marigolds or plant marigolds in a future garden bed for several months.

Before planting, when preparing the bed, you can plant it, for example, with mustard, it heals the soil. In a month, you can dig everything up and plant strawberry seedlings.

Strawberries, large-fruited garden strawberries, and hybrid strawberries are related berry crops that are usually called by the common name “garden strawberries.” The rules for caring for them are generally the same.

Formation of future berries in autumn

In those strawberry varieties that are not remontant, fruit buds of the next season are formed in August-September previous year. That is why this period is so important for the coming harvest.

Next year's strawberry harvest largely depends on autumn work.

Autumn events

This is beauty! Strawberries on the plot of one of our editors!

When the berry has fruited, it is necessary to carry out several important agrotechnical measures in turn on the strawberry plantation:

This is an approximate to-do list for those gardens where the surface of the beds is not covered with a special film or agrofibre. If strawberries are planted in slits of special mulching material, some points will not be relevant. The general concept (protection and feeding) remains the same.

Top dressing and mustache

Mustache removed!

Over the next weeks, before the onset of cold weather,... You can give one more feeding. for better plant preservation. This must be done as well.

Caring for strawberries immediately after harvest

When strawberry beds are used for several years, the bushes age and the yield decreases sharply.

Strawberries should be replanted approximately every 4 years.

Productive periods may vary for different strawberry varieties, but it is usually recommended to replant plantings every 3-5 years. In this case, obsolete plantings are removed and the beds are dug up for other crops. But if the plants have not yet crossed the critical age limit and are ready to please with the harvest next season, they need decent care.

The sooner the gardener starts processing strawberry beds, the bushes are better will restore strength , overwinter more successfully and bear fruit more abundantly next year. Specific terms depend on the region and varietal characteristics of the berry. As soon as the last fruits are collected, it is advisable to immediately begin trimming the leaves.

Whiskers for breeding

If they are taken from the same fruit-bearing plantation, processing can be slightly delayed in time. We must not forget that plants are exhausted by fruiting.

If seedlings are needed for propagation, the tendrils are not removed, but rather allowed to take root and grow into a good rosette.

Therefore, for to ensure that the mustache grows as quickly as possible, the beds are watered generously and liquid fertilizing is carried out. or organic: infusion of mullein or nettle (dissolved in ten times the volume of water), chicken droppings(water infusion 1:20).

To make your mustache healthier, you can spray the beds against diseases (with a biological product Fitosporin or chemicals Forecast, Propi Plus, Chistoflor ), from pests (pesticides Iskra M, Fufanon ).

Trimming foliage and tendrils

Removing leaves from strawberries is sometimes called mowing. But this does not mean that you need to mow with a scythe or lawn mower. Use garden shears, pruning shears, a knife or a small sickle.

If the plants are only one year old or the owner is confident in the absolute health of the plantation, then only the oldest ones are removed, lower leaves. In other cases, the entire leaf apparatus is eliminated. It is cut, raked, removed from the garden bed and burned. This is how many diseases and pests go away.

At the same time as the foliage, unnecessary mustaches are also cut off.. Only leaf petioles about 5 cm long are left on the bushes. With shorter pruning, there is a risk of infections and damage to the buds (heart).

After pruning in August, the strawberries will be ready for winter in the fall!

In Central Russia, in the North-Western region, in Siberia, strawberry leaves are not pruned later than mid-August. Fresh green mass should have time to grow well before the onset of cold weather. If the timing is missed, later only the lowest leaves are removed - spotted, old ones.

Weed control

Weeds growing next to the bush are pulled out by hand, trying not to damage the bush.

Weeds, especially perennial ones, can greatly choke strawberry plants and significantly reduce the yield of the plantation. Weeds must be removed along with their roots.

Weeding and loosening

Weeding between rows is carried out using a shovel or a narrow long scoop.

Weeding and loosening strawberry plantings are always carried out together.

This way you can extract even the deepest rhizomes. A thin root remover is used directly near the bushes, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the delicate surface roots of strawberry plants. Simultaneously with weeding, the soil is loosened.

Application of herbicide

It is more convenient to treat large garden strawberry plantations with herbicides using a backpack sprayer.

Sometimes, in order to get rid of the dominance of perennial weeds on a strawberry plantation, it is recommended to use a special herbicide called Lontrel 300-D .

Spraying with this preparation leads to the death of perennial weeds (except for cereals such as wheatgrass), and strawberries remain alive. Lontrel is an aggressive chemical and should only be used in cases of extreme necessity, strictly according to the instructions.

Watering

If there is (or has recently been) heavy rainfall, then additional watering is not needed.

But in dry weather, it is necessary to ensure a supply of water to the strawberry roots. This way, young foliage will grow faster and flower buds will form more successfully. Watering must be very plentiful– it is better to apply water or sprinkling. If from a watering can, then at least 30–40 liters per square meter of planting. Moistening the soil is also a preparatory measure before fertilizing and mulching.

Top dressing

Before applying fertilizer, the soil is loosened, then the granules are scattered and embedded in the soil, and peat is added on top.

Fertilizers are applied in two ways:

• pour humus and ash under the bushes;
• carry out fertilizing irrigation.

Both techniques can be combined.

1. First, strawberries are given liquid fertilizer with the obligatory presence of nitrogen in it. . This will help the bushes to grow powerful leaves to replace the cut ones already during August. Best option– organic. Slurry is diluted in water (1 liter of slurry per bucket of water) or infusion bird droppings(2 glasses of infusion per bucket of water). The resulting solution is used to water the plantings, using a bucket for 20 bushes. If there is no manure or droppings, they are replaced with a fermented infusion of grass. You can also fertilize with urea (1 tablespoon per bucket of water), complex mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). The addition of humates and microelements will not hurt.

   Stage one - add liquid fertilizer to the strawberries.

2. After a few days, add wood ash to the base of the bushes (a handful per plant) and loosen it slightly, embedding the fertilizer into the soil. Or they add it in liquid form using a daily water infusion (proportion: two glasses of ash per bucket of water).

   Stage two - add wood ash.

3. After this, compost is scattered around the strawberry plants (up to a bucket per square meter of bed) . The main thing is that it is well rotted, and the composition may vary depending on what was put into the compost heap: grass, manure, kitchen waste, sawdust, leaves and other organic matter.

   Stage three - spread the compost.

Treatment of strawberries from diseases and pests

Protective spraying is carried out after mowing the foliage, watering and liquid fertilizer, but before adding compost and mulching. Each gardener decides whether to use gentle, environmentally friendly products or chemicals (if the situation with infections is critical).

Chemical remedies

To prevent spotting, strawberry bushes are treated with Bordeaux mixture after harvesting.

It is advisable to mulch not only the bushes themselves, but also the spaces between the rows, maximally protecting the roots from drying out and winter cold.

Mulch is placed on strawberry beds after rain or good watering, in a layer of 3-5 cm. Mulching is not the same as sheltering from frost for the winter; it is a different agrotechnical technique. Various organic materials are used as mulch for strawberries.:

• compost,
• straw,
• rotten sawdust,
• wood chips,
• chopped bark,
• decomposed lowland peat,
• dry leaves,
• pine needles

Of course, many of them acidify the soil (pine needles, sawdust, bark, peat). But strawberries are not afraid of a little acidification. And if before planting the strawberries, the soil was properly deoxidized, wood ash is added annually, and the plantation is operated for no more than the prescribed period, then the mulch will not cause harm.

Mulching strawberries with pine litter.

Sowing green manure to increase yield

Some gardeners sow green manure in the rows of strawberries after harvesting.

Sowing green manure after harvesting is a useful procedure. We do this every year.

Plants such as mustard, rapeseed, phacelia and others are used. In addition to enriching the soil and improving its structure, green manure left in the winter contributes to snow retention.

Further work

Several more months pass from the strawberry harvest to the winter hibernation of the bushes. During this period, plants too.

1. It is necessary to regularly remove growing mustaches – they greatly weaken the plants and impair the formation of fruit buds.
2. In dry weather you need periodic heavy watering .
3. At the end of August or September, another feeding is carried out, with predominance of potassium-phosphorus components . To do this, use an aqueous solution of potassium sulfate and double superphosphate (a tablespoon per bucket of water), complex autumn fertilizers, and wood ash.

Spruce spruce branches are a good material for covering strawberries in case there is no snow cover for a long time.

• If all activities are carried out correctly and on time, healthy and strong bushes will form by mid-autumn. As a rule, they overwinter successfully. But it’s better to play it safe and cover the strawberry plantation for the winter. This is especially necessary in cases where foreign varieties are planted, new varieties whose endurance has yet to be tested. In regions where there are harsh winters and problematic off-seasons, protection works according to the principle “God takes care of the best.”
• The shelter should not be too early and dense - this threatens to overheat bushes First, strawberry plants must be hardened by the first autumn colds. When the top layer of soil freezes, daytime temperatures drop slightly below zero - only then do they cover the strawberries. In conditions Middle zone and regions with similar climates, this time usually occurs towards the end of October or even in November. If at this time it is no longer possible to come to the garden, the procedure can be carried out earlier, but not too closely.

Options for winter shelters for strawberries

Dry foliage is the most popular option for winter shelter for strawberries.

• spruce branches (coniferous tree branches);
• pine needles or dry leaves;
• reeds, corn and sunflower stalks;
• white agrofibre (): lutrasil, agrotex, etc. It is advisable to throw it not on the strawberry bushes themselves, but on small arcs so that an air gap remains.
• Many gardeners DO NOT RECOMMEND using SAWDUST: they get wet, cake, and freeze.

Sometimes they practice installing shields in the form of a fence near the beds - for better snow retention.

If earlier there were cases of damage to strawberry bushes by mice, then poisoned rodent baits are laid out throughout the plantation.

Video about the proper preparation of strawberries for wintering

Most often, plantings are attacked by the strawberry mite. Small insects actively reproduce when there is too much moisture in the berry beds or when the weather is humid outside. The mite lives on the tendrils and rosettes of berry crops.

In the spring, a spider mite often appears, sucking the juice from, and the pest entangles the inside of the leaves with cobwebs. All this leads to the death of plants, or, at best, to a decrease in yield.

The raspberry-strawberry weevil spoils not only strawberries. The insect feeds on leaves and buds. In addition, females lay eggs in the buds.

If a weevil is infested in a dacha or garden, you may not expect a berry harvest. This pest can harm all flowering berry crops.

Snails, slugs, ants and centipedes are also not averse to eating juicy strawberries. They feed mainly on fruits, causing significant damage to the crop. If you deal with them in time, you can do without any major losses.

Strawberry nematode – no less dangerous enemy strawberries Small worms, about 1 mm long, live in the green part of plants. The pest can be identified by characteristic reddish spots on the leaves.

Strawberry pest control methods

Irrigation of the above-ground parts of plants with a tincture of tops will help get rid of strawberry mites. Fill 1 kg of last year's tops with 10 liters of warm, but not hot water. Let it brew for at least 4 hours, put it on low heat and boil. Strain the resulting broth, dilute it with water 1:1 and add 40 g of laundry soap. Spray the strawberries - the treatment should be carried out twice with an interval of 7 days.

When fighting spider mites, strawberries can be sprayed with infusions of tobacco or wormwood, but this is not always effective. After flowering, it is best to treat with Fitoverm, and in the fall with Karbofos.

Check the dosage in the instructions found on the package or enclosed piece of paper.

Getting rid of weevils is not difficult. Take 1 kg of wormwood, add 4 liters of water and boil for 10 minutes. Strain and add 50 g of laundry soap - it prevents the broth from immediately draining from the leaves. Spray the plantings.

Use copper sulfate to kill snails, slugs, ants and other crawling pests that live on strawberries. Spray a thin layer of powder onto the soil between the rows. If there are too many pests, pollinate copper sulfate the leaves themselves, after a few hours, water the plantings.

Getting rid of strawberry nematode is difficult. If the plants are already damaged, all that remains is to dig them up and burn them, and treat the area with bleach. After purchasing seedlings, be sure to wash off the remaining soil from the roots with salt water - 5 tablespoons of salt per 5 liters of water. It wouldn't hurt to wash the leaves too.

Sources:

• how Victoria is treated

Plants can wilt due to lack of moisture. What if there is enough of it, but the bushes still turn yellow, turn brown, flatten on the ground, and stop growing? The reason may be the strawberry disease Verticillium wilt.

Rosettes obtained from such berry bushes are not suitable for planting. The culprit is a fungus located in the soil (it can survive in it for up to 13 years), which, filling the vessels of the roots, clogs them, and they no longer conduct either water or nutrients.

The initial signs of verticillium wilt can be recognized in late May - June. The secondary outbreak of the disease occurs at the end of August - September. The varieties most affected by it are “Festivalnaya”, “Zarya”, “Beauty of Zagorya”, “Komsomolka”, and less so - “Zenga-zengana”, “Talisman”, “Purpurovaya”. Sometimes late blight wilt occurs on strawberries. Its signs are as follows: the appearance of ringing brown spots at the base of leaf petioles, shedding and dying of leaves, flower stalks with green berries, browning and then blackening of the core of rhizomes, dying of fibrous roots, complete death of the plant after 1-2 years.

As soon as you notice plants affected by verticillium or late blight, immediately remove them, compost or burn them. Disinfect the hole with bleach (100 g per bush). New strawberry plants are not allowed in this place for 6 to 13 years. Remember that it is risky to plant strawberries in an area where potatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, zucchini, and pumpkins previously grew - they may leave pockets of infection. It is better to plant seedlings in pure fallow or after carrots, dill, and legumes.

Other predecessors are also good - calendula, marigolds, onions, garlic. Some gardeners, using the phytoncidal properties of these plants, grow them together with strawberries. Having noticed that any plants on your site are suffering, before planting strawberries in the fall (under spring planting) (under autumn planting) add 85 percent thiazone powder (10-15 kg per hundred square meters) to the soil, and when planting or 5-7 days after planting, water it with a 0.2 percent benlate solution (150-200 g for each plant).

Video on the topic

Strawberry - healthy berry, which delights not only the gastronomic but also the aesthetic taste, is also a valuable medicine. The variety of vitamins and minerals found in this sweet berry make it a real natural energy drink.

Unpleasant conditions that strawberries will save you from

By enjoying strawberries, a person makes a tangible contribution to his health. Regular use can cure a number of unpleasant diseases and conditions, such as:
- intestinal dysbiosis;
- smell from the mouth;
- low hemoglobin;
- hair loss;
- stool disorder;
- vitamin deficiency;
- high blood pressure;
- frequent nasopharyngeal infections;
- expanded “goiter”;
- joint pain.

Eating strawberries also helps prevent kidney and gastrointestinal diseases. If you regularly enjoy desserts made from berries and dairy products, you can protect yourself from the flu virus. The berry contains many minerals in an easily digestible form, and a small amount of sugar allows even diabetics to consume strawberries.

Strawberries accumulate iodine, so the berry helps patients with thyroid dysfunction.

Even in ancient times, the juicy berry was used as a diaphoretic and diuretic, which accelerated metabolic processes while quenching thirst.

The delicate berry does not injure the intestines with its acid, like other fruits, but has a gentle effect on it, therefore it is useful for children and weakened patients.

Due to the high zinc content, strawberries are a natural potency enhancer.

How to properly use the miraculous power of strawberries?

For achievement therapeutic effect you need to consume at least 350-400 grams of berries per day throughout the entire season. Preference should be given to ground strawberries rather than greenhouse strawberries; if possible, eat freshly picked ones.

Strawberry decoctions are also useful, for which you need to brew 6-7 berries in a thermos every day. Drink half a glass of the infusion before meals.
After a course of such treatment, which lasts just one season, the following changes are observed:
- blood sugar decreases;
- blood pressure normalizes;
- hemoglobin level increases;
- the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract improves;
- skin, hair and nails look much healthier than before treatment;
- immunity is strengthened;
- looseness and bleeding of gums disappears.

Regular consumption of strawberries gives a lot of strength - exactly what is needed in the summer, during the season of troubles and holidays!

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