To prevent this from happening, a blind area was invented, located along the perimeter of the building. Erect similar design not very difficult, but there are some nuances that deserve attention. In this article you will learn how to properly build formwork around a house with your own hands.
Main functions of the blind area
By appearance it resembles an asphalt or tiled path adjacent to the building. According to the standards in SNiP, the width of the covering must be at least 1 meter, and part of the blind area must protrude beyond the boundaries of the roof by 200-300 mm.
Important! Installation of the coating is carried out after all finishing work on the façade.
This design performs the following tasks:
- Prevents soil freezing. Thanks to the thick layer, the formwork creates additional thermal insulation, which has a beneficial effect on the temperature in the basement and basement of the building.
- Protects against water penetration under the foundation. Such a structure resists natural precipitation well and prevents the foundation from collapsing and flooding the lower floors.
- Improves the presentable appearance of the house. In addition to its main purpose, the blind area can serve as a pedestrian path, the average width of which is 80-100 cm, and decorative element building.
Types of blind area
Before erecting a structure, you should first understand what kind of house formwork coatings exist. These include:
- Stone. Suitable for cases where the house needs to be given an aesthetic appearance. The construction process is simple: paving stones or stone are laid on a layer of crushed stone or gravel, filled with concrete.
- Tiled. This type is very popular among the population. A layer of sand is laid on a pre-made base, and then paving slabs. Thanks to the wide variety modern materials, you can do quite original look.
- Asphalt. Mainly used for multi-family or public buildings. Its base consists of clay, which is covered with crushed stone on top and compacted. Then asphalt is laid. The outer part is lined with curb stones.
- Concrete. This option is characterized by ease of implementation and a small amount of required material, which increases its demand. Clay, crushed stone, sand are laid on the prepared surface, after which this layer is filled with concrete of the required thickness.
Necessary materials
In order for the formwork around the house to be made according to all standards, you will need the following materials:
- Cement.
- Crushed stone.
- Sand.
- Edged board thickness 25-50 mm.
- Fittings.
- Knitting wire.
- Polyurethane sealant for sealing seams.
- Bayonet shovel.
- Master OK.
- Rule.
- Building level.
- Container for preparing the solution.
- Process water.
After the selection has been made necessary materials, the width and slope have been calculated, you can proceed to construction. The installation sequence is described below:
- Marking. We hang a plumb line on a thread from the edge of the roof. Then 300 mm is added to the resulting point to determine the width of the coating. Pegs are placed at the corners of the house and surrounded with fishing line.
- Ground work. By using bayonet shovel cut off upper layer soil. The depth of the trench should be 25-30 cm. The bottom is compacted using improvised means or a vibrating plate.
- Installation of formwork. Along the edges of the recess, limiting boards are assembled from boards, which should protrude 3-5 cm from the ground. For stability, spacers are installed along the entire perimeter of the building. After this, boards are placed across the blind area in 1-meter increments. They will serve as expansion joints when pouring concrete into the formwork foundation.
- Backfill. A layer is laid at the bottom of the trench clean sand equal to 5 cm. To increase density, it is moistened with water and compacted. The second layer is filled with medium-fraction crushed stone; it is recommended to lay geotextiles between the layers to prevent mixing of materials and grass germination.
- Installation of the reinforcing frame. Reinforcement with a thickness of 6-8 mm is suitable for this purpose. Rods are cut 1 meter long (a gap equal to one span). The width is taken from the distance from the wall to the outer edge of the blind area. Its parts are fastened together with knitting wire to form a mesh. The design will be more High Quality, if the frame is raised a few centimeters. To do this, pieces of bricks are laid between the crushed stone and the mesh.
- Filling. Multiplying the width of the blind area by the perimeter of the building and the depth of filling, we get required amount concrete. We fill the space we need with the resulting mixture with a slope of 5-10 percent. Finished surface is aligned by the rule.
- Removing seams. After the concrete has dried, the wooden formwork should be dismantled and the transverse seams should be filled with sealant.
- Finishing. The final stage consists of covering the formwork paving slabs, asphalt or decorative stone.
Important! To prevent concrete from cracking over time, the formwork must be poured at one time, avoiding long downtime at work.
- Between the formwork and the plinth it is necessary to carry out expansion joint 2 cm wide. After removing the formwork, to prevent water from entering, it should be filled with sealant.
- In particular hot weather concrete screed must be periodically moistened with water. This is done in order to prevent cracking due to rapid evaporation of moisture. Thanks to this procedure, the concrete becomes much stronger.
- It is recommended that the blind area be constructed before the onset of cold weather.
By following all construction technology, you will achieve a high-quality result, and the foundation of your house will be reliably protected from natural destruction!
The blind area around the house is a strip located around the entire perimeter of the room. Its main role is to take surface water from the foundation, thereby protecting it from moisture. She happens to be important element in construction and the final stage. The blind area is done after all the work has been completed. If you want your foundation to last a long time, you must do it correctly. An incorrectly made blind area can add many problems in further construction, but you can avoid them by reading this article.
Blind area around the house
Main functions of the blind area
- Decorative completion of the building, it makes the house look more solid and attractive;
- The blind area protects the foundation of your building from water flow;
- Reduces soil freezing, which has a beneficial effect on warmth in the house.
How to make formwork around your house yourself
Anyone can make formwork around the house with their own hands, having required material and tools. After reading everything necessary advice, you can make the formwork yourself. The main thing is to know that improperly made formwork will have a detrimental effect on your entire construction project.
Determining the width of the blind area
When choosing the width of the blind area, you need to pay attention to the roof of your house. The blind area should not protrude significantly beyond the roof level so that precipitation does not flow onto it. The recommended width is 60-100 centimeters. With this width it will be comfortable for you to walk and it will waterproof the lower part of the building.
Step by step guide
1. You need to decide on the material. Most practical material- these are boards or plywood. They are easy to use and do not cost much.
2. Let’s move on to choosing construction formwork. You should choose among removable and permanent formwork. They differ in that one will need to be disassembled after construction work, but the second one is not. Both types are used by all developers for practicality and convenience.
3. When you decide on the material and type, you need to start marking. To do this, a projection is made from the edge of the building using a plumb line. The resulting line must be fixed with a mark and added 30 centimeters. Now our markup is ready.
4. According to our received markings, the top layer of soil is removed approximately 25 centimeters in depth.
5. The most important stage is the installation of formwork. We begin to install and strengthen all prepared materials around the perimeter of the formwork. To ensure that our design is strong and reliable. The driven pegs and supports must be positioned correctly; if positioned incorrectly, our formwork may become unsuitable for further concrete pouring.
6. When this work is done, it is necessary to fill a layer of sand about 5 centimeters and pour in plenty of water. A layer of crushed stone is poured onto the sand and water. These steps you take will help ensure high-quality formwork, ready for use, which can be poured with concrete.
Materials and tools for construction
For construction work, you need to stock up on tools and materials. It will be impossible to do all the work yourself if you don’t have required set for the builder. It should be noted that poorly selected material will have a detrimental effect on the outcome of construction.
Scroll necessary tools and building materials:
- Shovel for soil preparation;
- Cement, sand and crushed stone for concreting;
- Level and tape measure for precise measurements;
- Boards or plywood for making formwork;
- Trowel and spatula;
- Saw, hammer and nails;
- A wheelbarrow for transporting material will greatly facilitate the work.
Basic rules for constructing a blind area
The direct role of the blind area is to protect concrete from water, which means that it should be laid with a slight slope. This is done to ensure that any water that gets onto the blind area flows to the bottom. It should be understood that if the blind area is at the wrong level, its protection will decrease. All work with arranging the blind area should be completed before the first frost. The blind area is made strictly along the entire perimeter of the building; gaps in it are strictly forbidden. Even the smallest gaps will affect the quality.
How to properly prepare the solution and pour the formwork
Concreting the blind area
Preparing a solution for pouring is the most important stage for the construction of a blind area. It requires a very durable cement-based mortar of at least grade m 300. In an aggressive outdoor environment, a poor mortar will quickly deteriorate. It is not advisable to save on cement; quality and durability depend on it. The solution should be hammered in proportions of 1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand. It is advisable to add frost-resistant additives when preparing the solution during the winter season.
Before pouring, you should mark the slopes that will be fixed from the house parallel to the wall. Using a level, you need to check the formwork lines. For a more accurate level, you need to secure the threads. They will serve to help you when pouring concrete.
After these simple manipulations, you can start pouring the solution itself. It should be thick and need to be poured continuously. The hardening process must be monitored.
After pouring the concrete and drying it, you need to cover it with film for 48 hours. This procedure is done so that the moisture that concrete needs does not evaporate. If the poured concrete does not have moisture, the work done is in vain. It will deteriorate and begin to crumble.
A stencil with hollow compartments is intended for creating shaped covering elements from concrete that imitate brick or masonry. This device helps you quickly create an original straight or winding path without significant financial costs. Finished slabs and paving stones are much more expensive. The formwork is suitable for decorating areas on garden plot, in front of a private house or gazebo. The configuration of the compartments can be different - in the form of irregular polygons or with smooth lines.
One reusable product is enough to get the job done. It will last at least 5 years and is designed for approximately 2000 tiles. But it is more convenient to pave with two or three stencils, then there will be no downtime due to the need to wait for the solution to harden. By adding a coloring component, they achieve a great resemblance to paving stones from natural stone.
Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages of forms for garden paths:
- the ability to pave a large area relatively quickly, the speed is much higher than when laying tiles;
- attractive appearance;
- execution of various complex patterns, imitation natural materials, big choice design options;
- variety of configurations;
- affordable price;
- repeated use;
- ease of use.
Flaws:
- externally, the concrete path is inferior to that paved with natural stone;
- compared to paving slabs big size and concrete poured in a continuous layer, the speed of work is lower.
Types of formwork
Classification by material:
- Plastic (polypropylene), the most durable. Dimensions: 40x40, 60x60, 60x70 cm, wall thickness - 6-7 mm, weight - up to 1.5 kg. After pouring the mortar, you get a solid slab about 2 cm thick, and on it there are several stones of slightly greater thickness, separated by seams. The second option allows you to create elements that are completely independent from each other. Polypropylene molds can only be purchased, their price is from 550 rubles/piece. The cost depends on the dimensions and configuration.
- Wooden. Formwork for concrete path They make it with their own hands from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 5x5 cm, connecting them with staples or using tenons and grooves at the ends. The shape can be varied - rectangular lattice, trapezoid, triangle, etc. Theoretically, it is also possible to manufacture curved elements, but this will require special equipment. It’s easier to buy a ready-made plastic version.
- Metal. From hoops from old barrel or thin strips of sheet iron 5 cm wide, you can also make a stencil of any configuration yourself. The edges are bent with a hammer, the ends of the strips are fastened.
The shape of the formwork can be square, rectangular or irregular:
- Rectangles. They are located in the form of a simple lattice or offset (under brickwork).
- Round stones.
- Triangles.
- Polygons. Usually they combine three-, four- and pentagons irregular shape.
- Curvilinear figures.
Instructions for preparing concrete mortar for a garden path
Concrete when paving paths is made from cement of a grade not lower than M300, optimally - M400 or M500. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the production time. If the cement is more than 3 months old, then for road surfaces it cannot be used. You need to purchase sand of the middle fraction, washed from river or quarry; crushed stone is suitable for a fraction of 5-10 mm. Proportions:
- cement - 1 part;
- sand - 3 hours;
- crushed stone - 3 hours.
The coating will inevitably be exposed to precipitation, very high and low temperatures, their differences, mechanical loads. Therefore, it is imperative to additionally add additives that increase strength, frost and moisture resistance:
- ready-made professional plasticizers;
- silicate glue;
- fiberglass, it replaces reinforcement;
- special types of dry penetrating waterproofing for concrete;
- liquid complex additives, they increase strength by 30-50%, frost resistance - three times, moisture resistance - by several steps.
All of the above products are added according to the instructions during the mixing process. Add water until a medium thick consistency is obtained. The greasy solution does not distribute well in the mold, it cracks quickly after pouring, and if it is too liquid it will spread. You can add colored concrete powders to the dry mixture, then add water. In this way, they can imitate the shades of natural stone or give the elements of the path an unusual color.
Step-by-step instructions for paving with formwork
To complete the work you will need:
- shovel;
- stakes and rope for marking;
- geotextiles;
- crushed stone of medium and large fractions;
- washed river or quarry sand;
- manual rammer;
- cement-sand mixture;
- mixing container;
- formwork;
- K-222 or soap solution;
- putty knife;
- tarpaulin or film;
- materials for designing seams and surfaces of coating elements.
The procedure for creating a garden path using one formwork with your own hands:
1. Draw a diagram on paper or computer. When calculating the width, make a reserve for the thickness of the mold and an additional 10 cm on both sides. When drawing up the drawing, take into account the need for a slight slope to drain rain and melt water.
2. Set up a marking of stakes and stretch a rope between them.
3. Dig a trench 15-20 cm deep along the markings.
4. Level the bottom. Remove stones, plant roots, debris. Compact the cleared surface.
5. Add a small layer of sand. Level and compact it.
6. Lay geotextiles. Its edges should extend onto the slopes and protrude 5-10 cm above ground level. The strips are laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm on each other.
7. Level the geotextile layer. Fasten the strips with a stapler.
8. Fill in approximately 5-10 cm of crushed stone. Level and compact it; it is recommended to choose crushed stone with rounded edges; sharp edges will damage the geofabric. The most durable and frost-resistant type is granite.
9. Lay another layer of geotextile.
10. Pour up to 10 cm of sand. The finished path in the garden should be slightly above the soil level, otherwise water will accumulate on it.
11. Prepare the concrete mixture.
12. Moisten the sand in the trench.
13. Coat the inside of the mold with K-222 grease, soap solution or used automobile oil.
14. Install the formwork. Fill it with the composition, remove the excess with a spatula.
15. After half an hour, remove and place next to it, close to the finished element, pour the mixture again. Cover the entire surface in this way.
16. Cover the surface with tarpaulin or polyethylene. Leave for two days, periodically watering.
17. After 5 days, fill the seams with sand, gravel or earth.
18. Additionally, it can be treated with a water repellent - special means, forming on concrete surface water-repellent film. Rainwater it will just drain.
19. Walking on the path is allowed after 5 days, parking the car no earlier than after three weeks.
If desired, install curb stones on the sides of the path. This is done before the production of coating elements begins. Then the voids between the curb and artificial stones will also be filled with solution. Using several forms at once will significantly speed up your work.
It is impossible to build a path directly on top of the ground without first filling it with sand and gravel. It will quickly crack, the elements will begin to protrude above the ground.
Path decoration options
Give unusual look in the following ways:
- Add a coloring pigment to the solution or use a special white cement. You can combine two or three colors.
- Immediately after pouring, simply brush with a coarse brush.
- Lay the film and pour stones on it. Press them into the poured concrete, remove the film with gravel.
- Use formwork in several different configurations.
- Press in broken tiles, pebbles, glass beads, shells, pieces of wood, etc. Level the surface with a trowel.
- Plant lawn grass at the joints.
- Place irregularly shaped stencils in different directions. The result will be a path with unusual uneven edges.
- Leave fingerprints large leaves, stems of grass, children's palms or soles of their feet.
- Pour color into the seams bulk material - marble chips, sand, wood shavings.
Paving with formwork for filling garden paths - simple, affordable way decorate the area yourself country house. You can make elements with your own hands from wooden blocks or sheet iron. Ready-made ones are made of polypropylene, their price is low. The stencils are filled with concrete with additives that increase frost-moisture resistance and strength. To give a complete look, decorate the surface of the tiles and the seams between them.
Using monolithic technology, you can build an entire building. The formwork around the house is assembled to construct a blind area. This is a strip of concrete that encircles the building.
It is being built on last stage construction of the building, and if this was not done on time, then the blind area can be built during the operation of the house. Moreover, the work on its construction is not particularly difficult.
Purpose of the blind area
Let's figure out how to make formwork around the house if you plan to do the work yourself. First of all, it is worth clarifying the purpose of this design. In fact, it is just a strip of concrete, it is located close to the walls of the building and encircles it.
The main function of the structure is to protect the foundation. Improper manufacturing of the blind area or its complete absence can shorten the service life of the building. The blind area around the house is constructed for the following purposes:
- protection of basements from melt or rain water;
- slightly reduces the depth of soil freezing in a protected area, which has a beneficial effect on heat conservation;
- gives the building a finished look, it looks more neat and solid.
It is extremely important to make the formwork around the house correctly, so if you plan to carry out the work yourself, you need to carefully study the technology.
Formwork materials
If you decide to make the formwork yourself, then initial stage it is worth choosing the material. Several options are possible, including:
- Concrete solution. Minimum thickness The concrete layer is 50 mm, but the optimal thickness is from 70 to 100 mm.
Advice! When making a blind area around the house with your own hands from mortar, you can use large pebbles for decoration. The stones are laid close to each other or at a distance so that the individual elements do not come into contact with each other.
- Crushed stone. This option is allowed if the soil waters lie deep enough.
Advice! To fill the blind area, you can use expanded clay, pebbles or gravel. Stones can be used of the same fraction or of different sizes.
- Paving stones. Concrete paving stones can be purchased ready-made or made yourself. Paving stones may have different shapes and color. Gaps between separate elements filled with sand.
Most often blind areas are made of concrete. Construction is carried out quickly, the necessary materials are available, and the work is easy to do yourself.
Formwork calculation
As usual, construction begins with calculations and drawing up a project, this element is built in accordance with the requirements of SNiP. Primary requirements:
- the formwork must run as a continuous strip without gaps or breaks;
- a gap is left between the base of the building and the concrete strip to compensate for thermal deformations. This gap is filled with elastic sealant;
- It is important to ensure that water is drained away from the house, so concrete tape done with an inclination. The slope should be between 1 and 10 percent. As a rule, the slope is two to three centimeters for every meter of path width;
- the width of the formwork is determined depending on the type of soil, but it must be at least 1 meter;
- when determining the width of the tape, the size of the roof overhang should also be taken into account; the blind area must be wider, at least 20 cm;
- the outer edge must be smooth, no curvature is allowed;
- Defects such as cracks or depressions must not be allowed. Moisture can seep through these defects or plants can grow, which will contribute to the destruction of the structure.
Installation of formwork
It is better to start installing formwork around the house in the warm season. Before starting construction work, it is necessary to prepare the site and mark it. The markings are carried out using pegs; they are driven into the corners of the building and string is pulled between them.
Advice! To prevent plant germination, it is recommended to water the prepared area with a special solution.
- particle boards;
- moisture-resistant plywood;
- steel sheets;
- permanent formwork options use forms made of expanded polystyrene reinforced with fiber additives.
But most often boards are used; to assemble the frame, it is recommended to take timber with a section of 30 by 60 mm. The rules for installing formwork are quite simple. It is necessary to drive prepared boards or strips of plywood around the perimeter of the markings made.
Supports are used to strengthen the structure. The same boards are installed across them in increments of about 1 meter. These elements will help create expansion joints. Next, you need to lay a layer of waterproofing and pour a layer of sand 5 cm thick.
The poured sand is spilled with water and compacted to increase the density of the bedding. The second layer of backfill is crushed stone; this layer also needs to be compacted, but without moisture. When backfilling, you need to form a slope from the walls to ensure water drainage.
Dismantling of formwork
After assembling the formwork, reinforcement is placed inside and pouring is performed cement mortar. After pouring the concrete, you need to give it time to harden. The duration of exposure depends on climatic conditions.
At high temperatures, it is necessary to additionally pour the poured concrete and cover it with polyethylene so that the solution dries evenly. When the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to disassemble the assembled formwork, first removing the supports and then the main boards.
So, concrete formwork is assembled for manufacturing concrete blind area. The purpose of this structure is to protect the foundation. Therefore, it must be done. You can do the work yourself. For the manufacture of formwork forms, boards and bars are most often used, but other materials can also be used.
Formwork is a technological structure used to create a closed volume in order to accept liquid or bulk products and give a certain form. In this article we will tell you how to properly make formwork around your house with your own hands, and provide photo and video instructions.
Kinds
By purpose:
- formwork for floors;
By design:
- from removable elements;
- non-removable.
Materials for production
Depending on the complexity and purpose of the formwork, the following are used for its manufacture:
- Wood materials:
- edged and unedged boards;
- chipboard panels (chipboard);
- plywood, in particular, the moisture-resistant version of OSB-3 (OSB, oriented strand board).
- Metal products, e.g. aluminum alloys or steel.
- Polymer parts, for example, fiber-reinforced polystyrene foam, which has become widespread in the manufacture of fixed types formwork.
Ready solutions
To perform wall formwork, the industry has launched the production of kits, of which for quite a a short time can be assembled finished design. To choose the necessary formwork, you need to decide on a number of factors:
- number of storeys of a building;
- approximate weight of the superstructure above the foundation;
- dimensions of the building along the perimeter, availability internal partitions And additional elements, for example, a fireplace;
- removable or permanent formwork.
For buildings with a height of two floors or more, constructed using brick and concrete, with an area of 200–300 m² on the ground floor, it is advisable to think about removable formwork made of metal. An additional advantage of this solution is that it can be rented while the foundation is being built.
The use of a permanent structure will be justified if the following conditions are met:
- ground floor or basement will be periodically used by people, for example, as a home workshop, boiler room, laundry room;
- the building is being erected in places with a harsh winter climate - such a foundation will create additional protection from freezing of the lower part of the building structure;
- construction is limited by a time frame - in this case, savings are achieved due to the absence of the need to dismantle the formwork and speed up construction work above the foundation.
Simple view
One of the most simple designs- this is formwork made of wood materials. For example, for a simple strip foundation under outbuildings quite usable unedged boards with additional internal protection from roofing felt.
It is better to use edged, edged boards or plywood for a residential building. Such materials make it possible to produce durable formwork with great precision. The upper edge can serve as a level for the concrete mixture to be laid. In addition, the design is quite simple to manufacture and does not take much time to assemble.
Materials and tools
Formwork for walls is assembled from ready-made panels, bars and reinforcement. You will need:
- Edged board 25–50 mm thick, at least 3 meters long. Material belonging to the second grade will do just fine. Instead of boards, you can use plywood with a thickness of 12 mm.
- Bar natural drying with a cross section of at least 30×30 mm.
- Fittings. You can use a traditional corrugated steel rod with a diameter of 12 mm or more or use polymer products (glass reinforcement). The latter will allow you to save some money without losing the strength of the structure.
- Tie wire, nails, screws.
Traditional set of tools:
- circular saw, wood saw;
- drill-driver with a set of accessories;
- hammer, hacksaw or scissors, wire cutters, pliers (pliers), screwdrivers, axe, knife;
- shovels, crowbar;
- building level, tape measure, cord for marking.
Device
Stages of work:
- The necessary material and tools are prepared.
- Markings are being made for the installation of future formwork - in reference points Pegs are driven in and a cord is pulled between them.
- The required volume of soil is excavated, and the soil layer must be removed.
- A cushion of sand and crushed stone is added.
- In parallel with the work described above, you can, if you have free hands, assemble shields from boards or plywood. The latter, in case of small thickness, should be strengthened with several transverse bars. You can start knitting the main elements of the reinforcing belt.
- Next, the formwork is assembled from ready-made panels, fastened together and fixed to the ground using vertically driven pegs. The reinforcement is being laid.
- The final tying of the reinforcing belt into a single whole is carried out. The formwork elements are positioned and leveled.
Formwork for a building with a ground floor size of about 100 m², a vertical foundation height of up to 1 meter, with pre-made calculations and prepared material, can be assembled on your own in 3–5 days.