Finishing slopes without doors. How and what is used to finish door slopes after installing the front door

To make door slopes with your own hands, it is advisable to have certain skills in carrying out finishing works. It is necessary to have basic knowledge about the properties of the materials used and the rules of putty. Slopes are the ideal finishing touch for a doorway for both entrance and interior spaces.

Finishing the slopes refines the doorway and gives the door a finished look

Types of slopes

Finishing door slopes is an equally important stage in repair work rather than the door installation itself. The final result of the entire process depends on the quality of the work and the selected materials, which will directly affect the overall picture of the interior.

There are internal and external slopes. The last type refers to entrance doors and has many subtleties and nuances. Their types should also be distinguished depending on the cladding method. So, let's look at how you can finish the slopes front door:

plastering followed by painting or wallpapering;
overhead panels made of wood or MDF;
plastic.

A modern option for finishing slopes is cladding with the same material as the platbands

Overlay panels can be attached in several ways. When installing on a perfectly flat surface, it is sufficient to use liquid nails. If profile guides are used, a distinction is made between vertical and horizontal installation. In the first case, a sheet of the required size is cut out and screwed to the profile. In total you will need 3 parts: 2 side and 1 top. When laying horizontally, the lamella parts are joined one by one in the direction from bottom to top, every 3-4th element is secured with screws or liquid nails.

Leveling the surface

Before making slopes for the front door, you need to prepare certain tools and materials. Since it is advisable to level the surface of the wall first, you will need:

primer;
cement-sand plaster or starting putty;
finishing putty;
construction mixer;
bucket;
brush or roller;
spatulas;
corner;
mesh for plaster;
masking tape.

In addition to all this, you may need metal or plastic profiles, drywall, liquid nails, insulation, front finishing material, hacksaw.

First of all, regardless of the chosen type of cladding, it is necessary. Before starting work, make sure that nothing unnecessary remains on the surface: old finishing material, polyurethane foam, various contaminants, etc.

If differences in doorway If they are large enough, it will be quite difficult to level the slopes from scratch; in this case, you can make the task easier and use drywall. It is secured using metal profiles, but if the wall does not have significant differences, you can place the sheets directly on the mortar.

How to plaster door slopes:

Cover the door structure parts with film and masking tape for protection;
Clean the surface from dirt and prime it thoroughly;
Prepare the starting mixture in a bucket to level the surface;
Apply the solution to the dry surface using a spatula and level it until required thickness, keeping the level. To improve adhesion, you can spray the concrete with water from a spray bottle;
If the wall was severely damaged during the installation of the door, it is necessary to use a plaster mesh. Corners are aligned using corners. If necessary, you can use drywall;
After the starting layer has dried, it is necessary to smooth out all the unevenness and re-prime the slopes;
Using finishing putty, bring the surface to perfect condition and sand again. Repeat the operation if necessary.

Traditionally, many homeowners plaster the slopes of their entrance doors

After the slopes have been leveled, you can begin their final finishing, for this you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, decorative plaster and other materials.

MDF cladding

If you want to give your doors a more luxurious look, then it is better to use MDF panels to match the main structure. How to make slopes on doors using overlay panels:

Decide on the type of fastening. If the wall surface is perfectly flat, you can fasten the panels using liquid nails. If the plaster is far from ideal or is completely absent, it is better to fix them on the frame, most often this is metal structure or wooden blocks;
Install the frame along the entire perimeter of the slopes;
Cut out the parts to the required size;
Attach the MDF to the frame and secure. The ideal solution is to use L-shaped panels that will cover the corner of the wall.

If you used simple panels or a horizontal installation method, you need to hide the joints with the help of platbands or plaster the seam.

Examples of finishing slopes with MDF panels

Use of plastic

The cheapest and lightest material for covering slopes is plastic; it is quite easy to cut, which is also a huge plus. In addition, you can choose not only standard white version, but also color models or imitation various materials such as stone, leather or wood.

To begin, prepare the surface and install guide profiles; they look like F-shaped strips;
Cut plastic parts into required sizes. In order to get a neat cut, it is best to use a jigsaw, or, in extreme cases, a hacksaw with fine teeth;
At vertical way installation, install the side parts first, then secure upper slope. If you are installing horizontally located elements, you need to fit them tightly where they fit into the grooves, and it is advisable to secure every third part with additional materials: screws or glue. They are also installed first on the sides, gradually approaching the top;
Place corner caps on the outer cuts;
All joints and seams are sealed using sealant.

It is worth mentioning that horizontal laying is more appropriate for ribbed plastic like siding and for wide slopes.

Options for finishing door slopes with plastic

Additional insulation

When finishing entrance door slopes using a frame, one important question should be resolved - is it necessary to additionally insulate the doorway? The fact is that there remains an unfilled space between the panel and the wall, which can let cold air into the apartment, so it is better to immediately insulate the slopes, since after the completion of the repair it will be quite difficult to correct the situation.

Slopes of entrance doors can be insulated using the following materials:

mineral wool;
polyurethane foam;
felt;
ecowool;
glass wool;
polyurethane foam;
expanded polystyrene;
foam rubber
etc.

Additionally, seal all joints and seams with sealant wherever possible. Please also note that almost all materials lose a percentage of their volume over time.

Proper finishing of the entrance door slopes requires a layer of insulation

Which option to choose

Not every option will be appropriate in one case or another. Which finishing method is best for external works, and which one is for internal ones? Slope finishing interior doors Doing it yourself allows you to save on materials. For this work, you can use leftover wallpaper, paint and other materials, since there are no special requirements for internal slopes. Too massive and rough designs are unlikely to be appropriate here.

What is the best way to make slopes for entrance doors with your own hands? If we are talking about exterior finishing, the best option is plaster, it is resistant to atmospheric influences, is not afraid of moisture, looks neat and is easy to care for, and it will last a very long time, but it is better to refuse plastic, since it can freeze can't stand it. For interior works you can use almost anything. It should be noted that for private houses it is better not to use plasterboard when installing slopes, because even a moisture-resistant appearance can deteriorate over time. Optimal solution– MDF panel: solid, beautiful and reliable.

As you can see, in order to properly make slopes for an entrance or interior door, it is necessary to follow a certain work technology, which depends on the specific material. The easiest way is to cover the wall with ready-made parts, but this method is unlikely to be appropriate everywhere. Plaster is a universal and most reliable option.

The front door forms the first impression of your home, so it must be both reliable, aesthetically attractive, and well-installed. At the same time, the full installation cycle includes stages that are often neglected out of ignorance. These include finishing the slopes of the front door, which is necessary not only for the beauty of the structure, but also for high-quality operation over time.

What it is?

As practice shows, slopes are often confused with platbands, since platbands are their external, decorative part. By themselves, they serve only an aesthetic function. But the slopes are involved in ensuring tightness, sound insulation and thermal insulation, and increase the resistance of the front door to burglary.

By definition, slopes are the internal and external parts of the wall that “surround” the door frame. Slopes are also considered to be the left, right and top sides of the doorway in which a door is supposed to be installed, but is not installed. Not for all types doorways there are slopes on both sides. Sometimes they may be absent from outside, but from the inside there is in most cases.

The structure of the door slope is quite complex. High-quality slopes are not just parts of the wall protruding beyond the frame, they are optimal combination materials, each of which is necessary to perform a separate function. Materials are applied according to the “layer cake” principle.

The first layer is rough. To create it we use:

Primer. It is applied to the cleaned wall surface as a pre-finishing coating. Primers are necessary to level out the absorbent properties of the surface, as well as for improved “adhesion” of the following materials to it.

Styrofoam. This layer is not required, but is desirable in cases where the wall needs to be insulated. This is true for apartments on the lower floors and private houses.

Plaster. The primer improves the adhesion of materials to the wall, but does not level the surface. Plastering is necessary to fill irregularities, depressions or cracks in the wall. This process is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming and requires certain skills and abilities.

As an alternative, you can use a material that is easier to use - drywall. This option allows you to quickly prepare the surface for further types of finishing, but it is not suitable in all cases. In the Russian climate, it is more often used for interior decoration or in warm regions with high humidity.

Reinforcing corners. These are thin but durable metal corners necessary to protect plaster on slope corners. The front door is a high-traffic area, and the corners of the opening often get touched, hit, or scratched. Without proper protection, plastered corners will quickly begin to crumble and lose their presentable appearance.

Putty. With its help, all defects are smoothed out after installing the corners. Putty compounds are applied in an uneven layer, so after they dry, the surfaces of the slopes need to be cleaned. For this purpose, fine-grained sheets of sandpaper or low-power sanders are used. Furniture is also suitable if it reaches hard-to-reach places.

Re-priming before application decorative covering.

The second layer is finishing, or front. There are no strict rules in choosing finishing options. It depends only on individual preferences and financial capabilities. The only condition that must be met is to choose a finish that is harmoniously combined with the door leaf and wall decoration.

How to decorate the inside of the apartment?

The slopes protrude from both the outside and the inside doors. Accordingly, there are two types of finishing - external and internal. The external one, as a rule, is less variable. The main focus is on the design of the door leaf, and the slopes echo either it or the decoration of the walls. More often these are practical and concise options that do not attract attention.

Inside an apartment or house, the finishing of slopes becomes part of the interior. It plays a decorative role, so the types of materials and methods of decoration are of great importance.

Finishing facing materials from the inside there are the following types:

Plastering the surface.
Gluing finishing materials.
Frame sheathing.
Coloring.

For the first type, plaster, primer, water and that’s it. necessary tools. This process takes a lot of time, but makes it possible to putty all the unevenness, insulate the structure, and make a layer required thickness. Decor from other materials is often applied on top of plaster, but in itself it is already considered finished finishing, therefore refers to basic repair techniques.

“Clean” slopes after plastering can be easily painted in any color. suitable color, while they are polished until smooth or, on the contrary, left in relief.

The following materials can be used for decoration:

Ceramic tiles (tiles). It is distinguished by its rigidity, moisture resistance, hygiene, low price and a wide range of colors, shapes and textures. Ceramic surfaces are easy to maintain, but tiles may crack or chip if mechanical damage, and during the replacement process you will have to work hard so as not to damage neighboring elements.

An undeniable advantage tiles - many design possibilities. The mosaic looks especially original. It can be made from whole small tiles or from small pieces. Mosaic fragments are obtained artificially from tiles by cutting them into pieces of the required sizes, and handymen can use them for this purpose. broken tiles which is considered unsuitable. The result is original and unique, and the cost of materials is minimal.

Any construction adhesive is suitable for gluing tiles. Apply it evenly with a plastic spatula, and the seams are rubbed down after a day with a rubber spatula.

Porcelain tiles. This material is often confused with ceramic tiles. Indeed, in the manufacture of porcelain stoneware, the same composition of the substance is used as for tiles, but the production technology is very different. As a result, the tile has a colored coating only on top and becomes unsightly when chipped, while porcelain stoneware has a uniform color throughout the entire thickness of the slab and damage to it is less noticeable. Also, its structure is denser, so it is more resistant to damage. In addition to being moisture-resistant, environmentally friendly and durable, it is also frost-resistant. In appearance, this material is more noble, but the color spectrum is very limited and its cost is higher than for ceramic tiles.

Decorative rock. It is truly an interior decoration, although it is not always appropriate and is expensive. The peculiarity of this material is that it can be used to imitate real masonry. He has an attractive appearance, adds zest to the interior, impeccable in terms of performance characteristics. The stone does not chip, is easy to clean, is durable and safe materials. To fix it on the surface of the slopes, construction glue is used, but there are also ways to “cover” the surface with decorative stone.

Wallpaper. Wallpapering is perhaps the easiest to perform and budget method decor. It is most convenient to stick wallpaper on slopes with plasterboard trim. The glue will “grab” on the plaster, but the surface will have to be leveled especially carefully so that “bubbles” do not form on the wallpaper.

Considering the large traffic at the entrance to the room, it is better to choose wallpaper that is washable and in dark colors.

The openings are sheathed using the following materials:

MDF. Panels made from fine particles are very popular in all types of finishing. They are universal for any interior, look aesthetically pleasing and have a number of other advantages: durability, a variety of coatings that imitate different types of wood, ease of installation, improved sound insulation and thermal insulation in the room.

Chipboard. Chipboard finishing- the easiest way to tidy up part of the doorway if, after installing the door, it looks bad. In this case, you won’t even need a primer or putty. It is enough to sheathe the surface with even sheets that match the tone and pattern of the door leaf.

Laminate. Laminate siding is widely used for two reasons: it is inexpensive and looks much more solid than non-laminated materials made from reclaimed wood. The basis of the coating is fiberboard or chipboard (therefore, “sewing up the slopes with chipboard” means the same as laminate), and on top it is decorated with a polymer film. The most common option is stylization to look like precious wood, but there are also other shades in a dark and light palette. It has a number of advantages inherent in all wood-based materials, as well as certain disadvantages. Thus, among the most common disadvantages are hydrophobia (the material can delaminate and swell from water) and average wear resistance.

Extras. Sheathing internal slopes from the addition - this is more of a necessity than a decorative element. Extensions are narrow plates made of different materials, which are necessary for masking slopes whose width is more than 7 cm. As a rule, they are used when the door and slopes must be sheathed in the same style and with the same materials.

Drywall. The choice of drywall is relevant when you need a high-quality and budget-friendly result that is convenient to work with your own hands. In addition, plasterboard perfectly levels the surface for decorative finishing in the future and enhances the insulating properties of the front door.

Plastic. No matter how versatile MDF, laminate and similar materials are, plastic door requires decoration of the adjacent space with PVC-based materials. The use of sandwich panels is especially popular. They have variable widths - from 5 to 150 cm, which allows you to cover each side of the slope with just one piece.

The performance characteristics of the product are also excellent: aesthetic appearance that lasts for a long time, biostability, resistance to humidity and temperature changes, the presence of air sections inside the panels that ensure the preservation of heat in the house, hygiene.

Modern technologies plastic manufacturers guarantee it environmental safety and non-toxic.

Siding. The characteristics of siding panels are very diverse, because they are made from various materials - from aluminum to plastic. Aluminum, copper, wood, basement and vinyl siding are used for finishing slopes.

The best option is vinyl. It is a monolithic PVC panel, main feature which is flexibility. It can be given absolutely any shape, ideally adjusted to corners without joints or gaps. Vinyl is not subject to rotting and burning, is not afraid of water, does not crack due to temperature changes, is easily cleaned of dirt, and is not of interest to fungi and insects. The front side of the panels can be plain, with a pattern, stylized as stone, wood or brick.

Frame cladding involves preliminary installation of metal (aluminum) or wooden profile along the perimeter of the doorway, to which any material is subsequently attached using self-tapping screws. This method is considered the most labor-intensive, since before attaching the profile it is necessary to prime and level the slopes with cement mortar.

Some types of materials (plaster, chipboard, MDF and plasterboard without a decorative coating) need to be painted to blend harmoniously with the interior of the room.

For these purposes the following are used:

Acrylic paints. They are convenient to add to the composition for plastering the surface. This simultaneously reduces the number of finishing steps, since surface leveling and painting occur simultaneously, and makes damage less noticeable, since the entire layer of plaster is painted over;
Water-based. Such paints can be added to the plaster or painted on the wall over the leveling layer. Using acrylic and paints on water based, it is important to remember that they must be primed from above, otherwise the surface will get dirty. You can dilute the primer yourself using PVA and water in a ratio of 1:5;
Latex based paints can also be used in two ways, but their advantage is that a final primer is not needed. Latex compounds are not hydrophobic and are easy to clean;
Alkyd and oil. These compounds are indispensable in conditions high humidity. They are more wear-resistant and dense, but they are more difficult to work with due to their thick consistency and toxic odor.

How to insulate?

Thermal insulation and sound insulation are the functions of the front door, which partly depend on the type of finishing of the slopes. To insulate a room, you don’t have to run to the store to buy a heater. First you need to take care of maximum tightness, and you should start with the front door. This will not only increase the level of comfort in the house, but will also help in the future to save money on utility bills.

Insulation of slopes from the inside is carried out step by step:

Selection of materials. The leading positions are occupied by sandwich panels, plasterboard, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, and polystyrene. Experts recommend choosing polystyrene, which is superior to other materials in many respects. At a relatively low cost, it is capable of thermoforming and vacuum forming, is resistant to moisture and chemical treatment, does not smell, is environmentally friendly, and is amenable to various types of processing. If there is no polystyrene, it can be replaced with a mineral slab (wool).

Preparatory work. They include all cleaning measures work surface. It is necessary to cut off the polyurethane foam, remove the old coating, if any, and eliminate irregularities as much as possible. After removal old plaster the surface must be dusted with a vacuum cleaner and a damp sponge.

Primer and putty. It is necessary to prime the surface of the slopes. This will ensure high-quality adhesion of subsequent layers to the wall, and also minimize the likelihood of fungi and bacteria appearing on the wall. Any deep soil will be suitable for this purpose. After applying it, the surface should be allowed to dry for 3-4 hours. Repeated application of primer to plaster is acceptable.

It is not necessary to putty the slopes, but it is advisable, especially if the surface has many defects, chips and depressions. All these minor gaps greatly affect the insulation properties of the front door.

Installation of insulation. At this stage it is the turn of the insulating material. Polystyrene boards and mineral wool glued with specialized adhesives. The glue is applied to the slab with a spatula, then it is applied to the surface of the slope and adjusted to the level. The drying time for the glue is at least 24 hours. After this, the plates are secured with dowels.

Fastening the insulation. Ideally polystyrene or mineral slabs must be covered plastic mesh for interior finishing work. This will protect against cracks and unevenness in the future. The glue is applied to the mesh in layers, each layer dries to hardness in 6-12 hours.

Leveling the surface. Here again you will need putty. You can level the surface with up to 2-3 layers. Then you need to let it dry for the time indicated in the instructions on the container, and treat it with fine-grained sandpaper. The grain number on the sandpaper package is at least 100.

Final finishing. Includes the application of a colorless primer followed by painting or any other method of decoration.

It is important to consider that finishing materials have not only their own characteristics that affect thermal insulation, but also their weight. It is necessary to calculate in advance whether the insulated slope, for example, will withstand the weight of porcelain stoneware or lining, or whether it is worth giving preference to paint, plastic, or wallpaper.

How to make a slope on the front door from MDF panels with your own hands, watch the next video.

Colors

Slopes are a small detail that can either support the style in the interior or completely break out of it. An inappropriate color of decoration will become an element that violates the integrity of the overall picture, so it is important to choose the right color in accordance with the design of the door and the decoration of the walls, floor and ceiling in the room.

Boring door slopes are a thing of the past - now the variety of finishing options is simply off the charts! What interior designers don’t come up with, and what kind of experiments customers don’t agree to. Review best ideas and ways to implement them are ready for viewing.

Do-it-yourself door slopes - everything is in your hands

Most companies responsible for the delivery and installation of doors only care about outside question. This is understandable - you can install the doors and decorate the front side with platbands in one evening, but with the slopes on the side of the apartment you need to tinker with much longer. However, this is the point positive side question - you can make and design the slopes yourself as your heart desires.

IN contemporary art In interior design, door slopes have long lost their role as a standard space around the opening. Now they can become the calling card of your home, because it is them that the guest greets at the entrance. But first, let’s refresh our memory about what, according to building regulations, slopes should represent, and what functions they should perform.

So, slopes are the end part of the walls surrounding the door frame, if there is one, or components of the opening in the wall when the door is not installed, for example, in an interior passage. The main functions of this architectural element are: protecting the door fastenings from burglars, strengthening the door and wall, and beautifying the entire doorway, opened by the craftsmen during the installation of the doors.

However, modern designers look at things from a different angle - slopes can be, if not the central design element, then one of the main ones. The design of the entire room may depend on this element; with its help, you can visually improve the space and bring harmony to disproportions.

How to make slopes on doors - slope design

Modern installation of door slopes is like a multi-layer cake - for decorative layer the base is hidden, under the main one there can be insulation, sound insulation, vapor barrier, vibration protection, lathing, and only under it there will be a brick or foam block. The doorway is no exception - do not forget that in addition to external beauty, we must take care of the protective function.

The simplest and quick option finishing - installation of door slopes from sheet material, with which the sheathing is sheathed or glued to the rough surface.

However, this option is best used when arranging interior openings, where security issues are not so pressing. If you need to decorate the slopes on metal doors, or increase moisture and heat insulation, the best option will .

However, this is only one layer of the “pie”, apart from the obligatory primer.

Insulation is desirable, but not required layer. Most often it is made of foam plastic (in the case of plastering) or mineral wool (lathing and plasterboard covering).
Reinforcement - at a minimum, is the installation of reinforcing corners on top external corners slope The corners have a special perforation, with the help of which they reliably “cling” to the layer of putty.
Putty is a finishing, leveling layer. In some cases, it may be absent if further finishing with durable materials follows.
Decorative layer - can be made from a variety of materials. The simplest way is to apply a layer of paint; complex options are not limited by anything except the imagination of the customer and designer. In each specific case, the method of fastening decorative elements may vary.

DIY door slopes - original ideas

How to make original slopes on doors without special expenses? Even the simplest option - painting - can be turned into a fun way of finishing. Alternatively, you can apply two layers of paint: the background layer is applied with a regular roller, and when it dries, a second layer of lighter or darker paint is applied with a texture tool. You can buy one or make one yourself - just wrap a standard paint roller with a piece of suede, so that the material forms waves, bends, indentations, in a word, texture.

Another effect - colorwash - will allow the slopes and walls to look more airy, soft, if you want. To begin with, the main background is also applied, on top of which a lighter paint, closer to the background, is applied with a sponge or cloth. Light detergents Using movements or criss-cross movements, you rub the second layer, due to which a picture of airy lightness is formed. If you don’t have any time to fuss around, use stencils, which you can either purchase ready-made or cut out yourself.
If you still have wallpaper after renovation, you can cover the slopes with it. This is quite practical, especially if the wallpaper is washable - after all, the doorway gets quite dirty.
Slopes made of laminate or are installed very quickly and look original. Just don’t forget to buy special corners to hide the joints of the dies at the corners. If you think about it, this method is very practical - laminated coating on the floor alone can last about 25 years, and on the walls even longer. Laminate is easy to clean, does not fade and is resistant to mechanical damage.
Another quick and durable option is slopes made from MDF boards. It should be noted that MDF is still not as durable a material as laminate, but its installation is even simpler - you just need to cut strips in accordance with the width of the slopes, fix them with glue and decorate them with corners.
Slopes from artificial stone- more complex in execution, but very beautiful and durable. Depending on the shape of the stone and its color, you can achieve the effect of antiquity or, conversely, create modern designs. The stone is attached mainly to a special adhesive base for adjustment individual elements You will need at least a grinder with a diamond wheel. To give a wet effect, be sure to coat the surface of the stone with polymer varnish.
Ceramic tiles or mosaics look very impressive in a doorway, especially if you choose the right colors and placement. The option is very practical: durable, easy to clean from any dirt, does not attract or accumulate dust.
Mirror tiles or mirror mosaics will give the doorway greater height and width. A do-it-yourself finishing option for modern interior design; slopes for interior doors look best from this material.
The use of cork panels will allow you to create a very harmonious finish slopes, especially if there is parquet, parquet boards or laminate in the hallway. To increase the wear resistance of the material, it can be coated with a special elastic varnish for cork.

Even a chic front door will look unpresentable if the slopes around it are sloppy. They should have a beautiful frame, highlight and complement the front door, which is the main element. To decide exactly how to finish the slopes, you need to pay attention to color scheme, design and style of the front door. Those slopes that frame the entrance inside the apartment must correspond to the design of the hallway and the decorative parameters of the door.

Except decorative function, data door elements must provide additional effective insulation.

It is their plane that closes the joints between the wall and the frame. Let's look at what features the finishing of door slopes has after installing the front door.

Selection of materials

For doors, it is necessary to carry out high-quality finishing of the opening. Different methods are used for work. Professionals advise performing finishing work in one of 3 ways.

In the first option, a cement solution is applied to the slopes. When it dries, the opening is plastered. This method does not require large financial expenses. Such a finish will be quite durable, but the method is a labor-intensive process.

Another finishing method is also used. The second option proposes using panels from different materials. They are simply glued using special staff. The method is simpler, but financial costs increase.

The third method proposes building a frame onto which finishing panels are attached. In these structures you can install additional lamps, hide wires, etc.

After installation iron door The doorway is finished using any of the proposed methods. The choice will depend only on the skills of the master and taste preferences.

Application of insulation

Decorative finishing of a doorway is not performed without using additional materials. When slopes are created, it is necessary to use insulation. This stage is especially important for doors in a private house. IN apartment buildings This technique reduces heat loss.

Foam plastic, polystyrene foam or mineral wool can be used as insulation. In some situations, installing a layer of such material is problematic, since the opening space is reduced. According to SNiP requirements, this indicator must be at least 80x190 cm. If the available space does not allow the use of reliable insulation, then you can take special sandwich panels.

For openings that are too wide, the front door opening is finished according to frame technology. If you need to reduce the amount of cement mixture, then use this finishing option. IN frame structures There is insulation inside. Made from plastic or wood front side. It has an aesthetic and presentable appearance.

Preparatory work

Before finishing slopes with plasterboard, lining, laminate, plastic panels or other materials, you need to carry out certain preparatory steps. For any subsequent installation option they will be the same.

If the door was installed by installers, then you need to check the tightness of the finish. This is done by holding a candle around the entire perimeter of the opening. If the flame deviates in any place, then sealant must be added there.

Slopes and door leaf should be sealed with a special protective film. Then the surplus polyurethane foam are cut off. When the surface has already been prepared, a primer is applied to it. Now, if necessary, you can lay telephone wire or cable for additional lighting.

Plastering

Leveled areas of the wall must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and coated with a special primer. deep penetration. It will ensure high adhesion of layers and strengthen the base surface. The concrete lintel above the door needs to be given special attention. It needs to be treated with Betonokontakt. This is a special primer used for surfaces that do not absorb moisture well.

When the primer dries (about 5 - 8 hours), the beacon profiles are installed as accurately as possible. They are needed to level slopes.

The following steps are performed:

Regular or laser level On the side wall from the door, 3 cm away, the position of the line is marked strictly vertically.
Holes with a diameter of 6 mm and a pitch of 30 cm are drilled along the line.
Dowels 6x30 mm are inserted into the holes. The level of the caps is leveled using twine.
The beacon is installed on clips, and the verticality of the installation is checked again with a level.

They are set similarly corner profiles on the sides and top of the doorway. They should be flush with the area above the door and with the end walls.

After installing the beacons, a cement-sand mixture is prepared. The cheapest and easiest way is to use river or quarry sand and cement grades M-200 or M-150 as base ingredients. To obtain the correct consistency, you need to follow the following sequence:

Building materials are sifted through a sieve with cells of 5x5 mm or 3x3 mm.
It is worth preparing a container in advance in which 1 part of cement is mixed with 3 parts of sand.
You need to add clean, settled water little by little to the dry mixture. At the same time, the solution is mixed using a special electric drill attachment or trowel.

The finished mortar must be thrown onto the wall with a spatula or trowel and then leveled.

Plasterboard finishing

When choosing how to finish the slopes, you can pay attention to drywall. Working with drywall is more pleasant and easier than using plaster. IN in this case need to work with finishing putty. It acts as an adhesive for drywall sheets.

If space is limited, then drywall is ideal for slopes. This process is carried out like this:

Measurement of all slope surfaces separately.
Transfer the obtained data to a gypsum fiber sheet. Cut out elements based on them that will be mounted on the wall.
Installation work with finished parts begins with the ceiling part of the opening. It is necessary to apply glue in several slides to the plasterboard blank. Then this element is pressed firmly to the installation site, and then fixed in this position using pre-prepared supports.
Parts cut from gypsum plasterboard are used in finishing slope walls. Glue is placed in small heaps on the prepared elements. The sheet is pressed against the wall and leveled. Drywall sheets can be secured using driven dowels. They are not made too wide, through holes hammer drill or electric drill.
Metal perforated corners are secured with putty.
All joints must be coated with putty, leveled, and after drying, thoroughly cleaned.
Cover the entire surface of the slope with a primer.
To obtain an ideal surface, you need to apply thin layer(no more than 1 mm) finishing putty. The layer will be able to completely hide all the joints, irregularities and holes from the dowels.
When all layers of putty have hardened, you can begin decorative design slopes. They can be pasted over, painted or covered with decorative plaster.

Frame finishing

Iron doors can be large. In this case, it is necessary to use a special method of installing slopes. Frame finishing will reduce the load on structural elements. If this recommendation is neglected and a plastering method is chosen for a heavy door, a re-repair process may be required. The surface will begin to crack due to excessive load.

Using the frame method, you can prevent deformation of finishing decorative materials.

This method is used when installing heavy finishing materials. Frame preparation is also required for MDF with a thickness of 4 mm.

You can save on cement mortar by installing insulation inside. The frame method is also used for walls exposed to frequent moisture.

Frame installation

First, the surface is prepared; in some cases, the base must first be plastered. Then you need an antiseptic primer.

Suitable as a frame wooden slats or aluminum profiles. If wooden slats are chosen, they must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition. The beam or profile is set using building level and fixed with dowel nails.

All structural elements should be firmly fixed to the base. Longitudinal jumpers will strengthen the structure. Thermal insulation is used in the cells. Then you need to measure and prepare the strips. They are installed using glue. Then the reinforcement is reinforced with self-tapping screws. Finishing can be done using the selected material.

Decorative finishing

Are used different types decor in the process of finishing slopes. Depending on the taste preferences of the home owners and the chosen method, different materials can be used. It can be plastic, lining, tiles, decorative rock, laminate or other materials.

Finishing the slope with clapboard or laminate is a fairly common option. These are durable and durable materials. They can be mounted even on a surface that is not level enough.

For smooth and shallow slopes it is possible to use finishing made of plastic panels. This decor is quite soft and can be slightly deformed. Therefore, it will be more effective to use MDF panels for finishing. The material is quite tough.

At decorative finishing Depending on the type of material, a cement-sand mixture or adhesive solution is used for fastening.

Paint or wallpaper

When considering the question of how to decorate the front door opening, you can note wallpaper and paint. It's easier to use paint. Acrylic or water-based paint will do. First, a layer of starting material should be applied to the surface, and then finishing putty. You can choose paint of any color, the main thing is that it harmonizes with the decoration of the hallway.

Wallpaper is used much less frequently for finishing work, but this method looks advantageous. The wallpaper will be a continuation of the decoration of the hallway. To make work easier, a material without a pattern is selected. This process is carried out simultaneously with pasting the walls in the hallway.

Having considered all the methods for finishing the slopes of the front door, you can choose the most suitable option and do all the work yourself.

Any homeowner can make door slopes with their own hands.

As always, success depends on your ability to hold the instrument and, of course, strict adherence to the nuances of technology.

In addition, looking ahead, we will say the following: slopes are mostly a decorative addition, local finishing entrance/interior door, which will hide all fastening points around the perimeter, and its installation can actually be completed in 1 day.

The slope serves to give a completed, “marketable” appearance to the opening and strengthen the door frame (entrance/interior).

There are several options for making slopes:

sealing with mortar and plaster;
gluing finishing board the same solution;
cladding around the perimeter of the finish liquid nails or self-tapping screws.

Methods are divided in terms of slope formation: there are all sorts of materials, and the methods of attaching them vary.

Sealing slopes with mortar is simple and reliable for sound insulation.

In addition, such a slope without voids does not bend, but in terms of design it is “poor”: you can somehow paint it, give it a texture with good plaster and that’s all.

Another thing is the installation of finishing materials: MDF, laminate, plasterboard, plastic panels, lamellas - they are very reliable and look great in appearance.

Door slopes are finished using metal profiles or wooden blocks. This installation is appropriate if you see that you will have to spend a lot of solution to fill the voids.

But there is a nuance: you will need to contrive through trial and error in order to fit the slope elements to each other according to even corners and at the same time maintain their evenness in one plane.

Preparatory work

Whenever a slope is performed, the same preparation occurs (see photo):

the door leaf and frame are covered with masking tape/film to isolate the surfaces from the solution;
all protruding parts that will interfere with priming and installation of slopes are removed (wiring
is recessed, the protruding part of the finish is rubbed flush with the wall);
surface around entrance box completely primed.

To make a slope correctly, you need to know its structure:

The 1st layer is always rough: primer, sometimes polystyrene foam + primer for thermal insulation purposes, a layer of plaster or just a piece moisture-resistant plasterboard(glued directly onto the plaster);
2nd layer – installation of entrance finishing: from simple painting to installation of even expensive cork.

Processing the opening with plaster

Plaster is used as rough coating before painting and finishing the doorway with panels.

The plaster is cement mortar with sand, sometimes with plasticizers for quick drying, for example, the same alabaster.

To prevent unevenness, putty is applied.

The technology is as follows:

For finishing you need a primer, sand with cement, a spatula, a level, putty, alabaster, a mesh and a brush;
The surface, cleared of dust and unevenness, is covered with concrete primer and then cured;
Beacons are placed according to the level: the profiles can be held with the mixture, like temporary glue;
The solution is applied within the beacons and distributed with a spatula. Afterwards it is level with the beacons and kept for a whole day;
Putty will seal cracks on the surface;
The finished surface can be immediately covered with wallpaper or paint.

Types of slope formation

It’s time to tell and describe the technologies for making slopes different ways. First, let's talk about how it is formed entrance slope material on top of the solution.

Finishing material on mortar:

Drywall, MDF, plastic are attached with cement mortar or glue to a leveled and primed surface - and you're done! The whole point of technology;
Mark the level of the slope, then check the entire perimeter for deviations from the vertical with the level;
Fill the entire space with mortar so that the final level of the slope is below the level of the primer. When it dries, level it (putty), lightly sand all protruding irregularities with fine-grain sandpaper;
Apply glue to the surfaces under the slope and the material itself. Place them in the place of fastening and press down;
While the solution has not yet been applied, check all surfaces with a level and, if necessary, manually adjust the material. If there is still clearance between the sheathing itself and the wall (the surface is uneven), then you can seal it with mortar and then adjust this element separately.

It is also possible to mount the slope on the frame.

We are talking about the most common type of slope formation with the participation of the selected finishing coating.

How to do this - first a little about the technology, and then specifically for each case:

Despite the fact that the solution is not used at all, the surface around the entrance door under the slopes must be primed so that the slopes do not simply crumble over time;
Slats with an angular cut (45 degrees in the corners) are mainly used as slopes;
The wall is leveled (putty is applied), and with such a condition that the thickness of the slope with the frame will ultimately be flush with the surface of the entrance door frame, but will not protrude even a millimeter, which will become immediately noticeable;
The slope frame is secured with plastic dowels and impact screws. Two pairs of entrance slats (6 pieces in total) are attached around the perimeter, which will serve as supports for the slopes. The slopes themselves are then placed on them and joined together.

Laminate

A special case of the technology described above, except that the material is different. But each has its own characteristics.

Laminate slopes are durable, easy to clean, do not collect dirt, and have big choice shades and look noble in appearance.

Installation is performed as follows:

we count the amount of material for pasting, make markings and prepare laminate panels with cuts at an angle of 45 degrees;
if the opening is larger than the width of the laminate, then the panels are connected by stiffening ribs from an aluminum profile: exactly 4 pieces are cut out, then they are planted with liquid nails to the panels (across the panels);
so that the slope falls into place flush with the door frame, small grooves can be made under the stiffening ribs;
the panels are fastened using self-tapping screws on dowels, after which all caps must be covered with a lining of decorative slats or a plastic corner.

Plastic

A regular sandwich panel will easily cover the deepest opening.

Installation is simple:

we cut panels to the required sizes;
we fasten the top with self-tapping screws as close to the end as possible;
We also install the sidewalls;
we cut the corners in the miter box at an angle, glue them;
We treat all seams with transparent sealant and remove excess.

The simplest, fastest and most inexpensive way. The only “but” is that it is advisable to insulate the openings if possible and seal them with plaster.

If a lot of mortar is lost, then attach wooden slats inside the opening, install polystyrene foam, and fill it with polyurethane foam.

Drywall

A universal finishing material that is used on almost any surface; even walls and partitions are made from it.

The installation is as follows:

We cut out three panels from the sheet - the top and two sides;
We wet the stripped original surface and apply polyurethane foam on it with a snake;
We glue our panels: press the panel firmly against the foam, immediately remove it, wait 3 minutes and put it back on the foam. This way the foam will have time to thicken and set securely;
We remove excess foam with a knife, the putty will close the corners. We subsequently glue a plastic corner onto them.

MDF

Frequently used finishing material.

Installation is a little more complicated:

We get rid of the gaps between the wall and the door frame with polyurethane foam;
We treat the surface under the MDF with a primer;
We apply plaster along the beacons on the dowels;
Alternatively, putty for the facade will help out. In this case, the mounting profile is placed in the solution that has not yet hardened;
The basis for MDF slopes is a solution: when it dries, it needs to be treated with primer;
2 sidewalls and 1 top of the opening are cut to size from MDF panels. The glue is applied to the top of the slope and the part is pressed against it until the panel adheres to the glue;
All gaps between the panels and the wall are sealed with a plastic corner on liquid nails.

Original ideas

In addition to the usual plastic, drywall, laminate, there are other finishing options:

If there are extra strips of wallpaper, they can also be used for decoration: wallpaper is glued to a simple corner. The only drawback is low strength;
Decorative stone: made from panels of thin artificial stone, which is attached with special glue;
Ceramic tiles: a rare participant in the technology, but with the proper skill to correctly cut the tile according to the pattern, it creates an excellent effect;
Made from cork panels: expensive, but compatible with laminate and parquet flooring.

You can make the slopes yourself (instructions with photos and videos to help). The main thing is to observe a number of nuances, the absolute evenness of the walls and the accuracy of fastening the material.

Do not neglect sizing calculations, taking into account errors in the thickness of the material and fasteners.

It may seem like “do it by eye - and everything is so simple, nail it, twist it, put it in place,” but it is better to do it as in the proverb “measure seven times, cut once.”