Plastic windows in a wooden house installation features. Technology for installing plastic windows in a wooden house

Installing windows in a wooden house is significantly different from installing windows in brick and stone houses. For example, the openings of buildings made of logs and beams, as a rule, have a quarter, but not from the inside, but from the outside.

Shrinkage

But the most important difference between houses made of wood (does not apply to frame-panel houses) is the ability to shrink as a result of drying of the wall material (logs, timber). And this point is decisive in installing plastic windows in a wooden house, because if you install a window, as usual, in a bare opening, it will inevitably be crushed and deformed by the shrinkage process.

There is an opinion that the first two are the most active period of wood drying. But that's not true. After the construction of the house, the shrinkage of the walls continues for decades. But that is not all. Wood not only gives off moisture, but also absorbs it. Therefore, rigid fastening when installing windows in a wooden house is impossible in principle!

• Shrinkage in a log house is about 10 - 15 mm per log D = 250-300 mm
• Shrinkage in a house made of timber is about 7 - 10 mm per beam with a section of 150x150 mm
• Glued laminated timber - unknown.

There are other ways to calculate the shrinkage height of log houses as a percentage: approximately 10-15% of the original height. But in fact, the shrinkage of houses made of timber and logs depends on many factors:

• on the material (log, rounded log, timber, laminated timber);
• on the time of material procurement (winter procurement or summer);
• depending on the time of day(morning, evening) Yes-Yes!!! Don't be surprised - we explored this too!
• from where the forest grew (swamp, field);on the degree of resinity and density of the tree;
• on the size of the material - both its length and thickness;
• from the moisture content of the material;
• on the size of the building;on construction technology (dowel, type of felling, etc.);
• from material interventional insulation; from the type of wood;
• depending on the time of year when construction is carried out.

The most severe shrinkage occurs in log houses made of ordinary logs, followed by rounded logs, profiled beams, timber, and laminated veneer lumber.
Even if the house is more than ten years old, it is still necessary when installing windows in wooden house take into account vertical movements of walls as a result of an increase and or decrease in humidity and air temperature in different times of the year.

Wooden house - Living

A wooden house is a constantly moving structure, compared to buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of windows in a wooden house is carried out not in the opening itself, but in a special wooden box, which acts as a connecting link between the window and the wall. This box is called differently: casing, frame, deck, pigtail, linden.

As can be seen from the photo, the casing is ordinary window box, made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick boards, installed inside the opening.

The meaning of this design is that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the opening, since it is not attached to the logs (beams) with nails, screws, or other fasteners, but is held in place by grooves in the side posts mounted on the spikes at the ends of the logs. Even foam is not used to seal the gaps around the window frame - only tow, jute (flax batting) and other soft insulation.

Shrinkage gap

Please note: a large gap is specially left above the jamb, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible amount of shrinkage of the logs (beams). During the first years after the construction of the house, this compensation gap will gradually decrease to a minimum, but the upper log (timber) of the opening correct calculation will not press down or deform the pigtail. Thus, shrinkage of the house will not affect the size and shape of the pigtail in any way, and, accordingly, will not damage plastic window, standing inside it.

Shrinkage gap size

If you decide to install windows in an old wooden house that has long gone through the process of shrinkage, then, disassembling window units, you will probably notice: they are made according to the same principle as the casing design described here, i.e. They are not nailed to the logs of the opening, but are fixed in it using a simple tongue-and-groove system on the sides.

This suggests that the technology of installing windows and doors in a wooden house in frames was invented a very long time ago, and is used successfully to this day. We will not invent anything new and will follow the same path.

There are several ways to install the pigtail (more details at the link):

• T-shaped frame - a groove is made at the ends of the opening logs, and a T-shaped profile is placed into it;
• U-shaped - a tenon is cut out at the ends of the opening logs, and a groove is made in the side casing posts).

We do both options, since they provide maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the frame not only protects the window from shrinkage of the walls, but also ensures the stability of the wall at the place where the opening is cut.

Briefly, the sequence of our actions will be as follows:We cut out an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which are slightly larger than the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;

We form a groove for the T-shaped pigtail;

We form a spike for a U-shaped pigtail;

We make the parts of the pigtail;

We install the window frame in the finished opening;

We install a window in a wooden house into a frame, aligning it flush along the front edge (we fasten it with self-tapping screws of such length that they do not pierce through the frame and do not go into the logs);

We blow foam into the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the frame, not forgetting about the installation of waterproofing (outside) and vapor barrier (inside - suitable for rough frame under cladding, for finishing it is not required since the window rests on the quarter) of the foam seam;

we install external platbands (we attach them to the casing);

we carry out the interior finishing of the window (window sill, slopes - not required for finishing the frame, since it is the slopes and window sill).

We use foam only inside the pigtail. We insulate the gaps around it with traditional flax fiber or jute fabric.

Over the next 5 years (if the house is newly built), we will have to periodically remove the trim and gradually reduce the amount of insulation put in there. If this is not done, the upper parts may bend.

Even after the house has completely settled, the gaps around the casing should under no circumstances be sealed with foam.

Preparing the opening for installing a window in a wooden house

Before cutting, we mark the window opening using a level, because the plastic window will be installed strictly level in all planes, therefore the frame must also be installed in the opening as accurately as possible according to the level initially.

Lower crown You need to saw through the opening so that you get a flat horizontal platform.

We determine the dimensions of the opening based on the size of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the required gaps.

We perform all calculations visually. Here is an example of a diagram for calculating the size of the opening for a rough T-shaped frame:

Accordingly, we take a beam with a cross-section of 100x150 mm and cut out a T-shaped profile.

Here is a diagram for calculating the details of a p-type finishing socket:

For a U-shaped pigtail made of solid timber cut out a U-shaped profile.

The size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage of the house, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If we, for example, roughly calculate, taking everything to the maximum, then for the window standard height 1400 mm (plus the thickness of the casing crossbars, plus installation gaps of ~ 245 mm) with 15% shrinkage, the top gap will be 24.5 cm - a huge hole, the height of which will most likely end up being too large.

To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not rack your brains over GOST standards regulating the shrinkage values ​​of various building materials tree species, comparing this with local climatic conditions, etc.
You can do it simpler, namely:

If you are building new house, then start installing windows in it no earlier than a year after the construction of the log house in order to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, when manufacturing and installing the pigtail, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 60-50 mm for log house, 50-40 mm for timber and 40 mm for a house made of laminated veneer lumber;

If your house has stood for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made minimal - 40 millimeters, just to compensate for possible seasonal changes in the geometric dimensions of the opening;

So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it and cut it out. Now you need to cut out a tenon at the ends of the logs (beams) on the sides of the opening. The tenon is also marked using a level in the center of the log (beam).

We make the tenon size 60 mm - width and 40 mm height.

We cover the sides and bottom of the opening with linen or jute using a stapler.

Making a pigtail

First, you need to decide on the width of the frame bars: it should either be equal to the thickness of the wall, or be a little larger, so that later, when installing external trims, they (the trims) fit tightly and unhindered on the frame, and not on the wall. There is another option in a log house - a groove around the opening along the width of the groove.

Secondly, to make a pigtail you need to take well-dried material, otherwise the assembled structure itself will soon deform as it dries.

First we cut out the bottom part (window sill), making it 10 cm longer than the width of the opening. At the ends of the window sill we cut a groove for a tenon 65 mm wide and 40 mm deep.

We also make small 20 mm recesses at the ends of both window sills for joining the crossbars with the side posts - the so-called locks.

We make the side posts 70 mm higher than the height of the plastic window frame. On downsides of the racks, using a circular saw, we cut out a groove for the tenon 60 mm wide and 40 mm deep. We immediately make a lock in the side posts for the upper part.

IN last resort we make the top part of the pigtail. Based on the dimensions obtained between the two installed side parts.

Installation of the pigtail

We begin installing the frame into the opening from the bottom crossbar (window sill). Then the top is inserted into the opening, under which we place the side posts one by one, placing them with grooves on the tenons.

We fasten the elements of the frame together with self-tapping screws and, if desired (not obligatory), coat the joints with sealant. We caulk the gaps around the casing with ordinary tow, but without much fanaticism, so that the parts do not bend.

We close the upper shrinkage gap soft insulation like Rocwool or holofiber. This operation is best done after installing windows and external trim. More details in the article ""

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Now you can begin installing the window.

Installing a window in a wooden house

We install a wooden or plastic window, aligning it with the front edge of the frame. Place the window inside a third of the wall thickness, as is done in a panel or brick house, there is no need here due to the lower thermal conductivity coefficient of wood (smaller freezing depth).

Moreover, given the small thickness of the walls of a wooden house, by deepening the window into the opening, we will be forced to trim the already narrow window sill. And the ledge that is formed as a result on the outside of the opening will have to be additionally closed and sealed. And as measurements taken with a thermal imager show, the main conductor of cold is the profile itself. For more details, see the photo report made from photographs from a thermal imager here.

Rough frame for cladding

If you have calculated the dimensions of the opening and the frame as described above, then the installation gaps around the window frame when installing in a wooden house should be 15 mm on the sides, 15 mm on the top and 15 mm on the bottom (we do not make the bottom gap larger, because the stand profile makes it possible put it under the frame later plastic window sill, the thickness of which is 30 mm).

It is more convenient to attach the frame to the frame with the help of self-tapping screws of such a size that they fit into the body of the frame, but do not penetrate the wall. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Using self-tapping screws longer than the thickness of the frame is dangerous because they will pass through the frame and screw into the logs (timber), which is unacceptable.

Provided that all preparatory work has been done using a level, the window frame should fit exactly along the frame, i.e. the front edge of the frame should be parallel to the plane of the window, without noticeable distortions.

Waterproofing a window from the outside

Before foaming the gap between the window and the frame, we need to decide what material we will use to waterproof the installation seam on the street side. As you know, the two main enemies of foam are sunlight and water. If from sun rays We can simply cover the installation seam with platbands or flashings, but with waterproofing the situation is more complicated, because it must meet two basic conditions: not let water in and at the same time not prevent moisture vapor from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing must be resistant to prolonged weathering.

All these conditions are met by materials such as PSUL, waterproofing vapor-permeable tape and special sealant “STIZ-A”.
Sealant "STIZ-A" - one-component vapor-permeable acrylic sealant white for sealing the outer layer - characterized by good adhesion to the base building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood, among others.

It is also resistant to UV radiation, precipitation, temperature deformation and can be applied even in negative temperature up to -20 degrees. The only disadvantage of this material is that it is difficult to find in small containers, and buying a whole bucket makes sense when you are installing a lot of windows. If you choose “STIZ-A” as external waterproofing, then the procedure will be as follows: first we foam the window, then, after complete drying, we cut off the foam sticking out from the outside and after that, using a spatula, apply sealant to the cut.

Waterproofing vapor-permeable tape (self-adhesive butyl rubber tape, consisting of a vapor diffusion membrane with adhesive layer sealant on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, a tape with a width of 70 mm is suitable. When using this tape as waterproofing, ensure it is oriented correctly when gluing.

You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (don’t forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, air passage is only possible in one direction. The side from which it is impossible to “blow through” the tape is the outer (street) side.

The sequence of actions (first tape, then foam or first foam, then tape) does not have of great importance, but you need to take into account that the foam, expanding as it dries, not only stretches the tape with a bubble (it will interfere with the installation of trim later), but can also tear it off the window or frame.

Therefore, if you first stick the tape, then screw the platbands or hard strips on top of it immediately, and only then foam it. Or foam it first, wait for the foam to dry, cut off the excess and stick the tape on the same day so as not to expose the foam cut to prolonged weathering.

PSUL is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (similar to foam rubber), impregnated with a special composition, thanks to which it is waterproofing and vapor-permeable. Supplied compressed, rolled into rollers.

If you choose PSUL tape, then buy one that expands more than 30 mm. You will have to stick the PSUL not on outer side frame profile, and to the end near the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the opening, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to cover the frame with PSUL before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be done at an accelerated pace, because after a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work.

The installation seam should be foamed only after the PSUL has completely expanded and closed the installation gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with waterproofing tape: The foam that expands as it dries can push the PSUL out. This can be avoided by pressing the PSUL on the street side with platbands or flashings.

Internal vapor barrier of windows

WITH inside The foam should also not remain open to prevent moisture from getting into it from the air in the room. For internal vapor barrier installations, you can use vapor barrier tape, which has already been described in the main section of this site, or use acrylic sealant SAZILAST-11 (“STIZ-B”).

The vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the frame with a thin adhesive strip before foaming. Immediately after foaming, the protective paper is removed from the wide adhesive strip, and the tape is glued to the pigtail. Before the foam under the tape hardens, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and screw the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise later the tape “bloated” with foam will interfere with this.

Sazilast is applied to the hardened foam, or more precisely, to its cut. In this case, it is no longer necessary to rush to install the window sills and the starting profile, as when using tape. Nothing will prevent you from doing this later, when it is convenient.

Interior decoration

The interior decoration of a window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) is not much different from the decoration in a panel or brick house. It’s even a little simpler here: you don’t need to drill holes to install the slopes - we fasten everything with self-tapping screws into the wood (into the frame).

There is also no need to additionally insulate the slopes from the inside with foam plastic or other material. To be on the safe side, before installing the slopes, it is enough to foam the inner surface of the casing with a narrow strip next to assembly seam. This will be enough, because wood does not freeze as deeply as concrete or brick.

Like a window sill and slopes

This method of installing a window in a wooden house allows you to save on slopes and window sills, gain time and achieve, in my opinion, a greater aesthetic effect, but for this you will need a good woodworking machine to evenly cut out the so-called reverse quarter on the casing elements, which will be install a plastic window.

What a reverse quarter is can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess into which the window frame will be installed on the street side. Quarter depth - 20 mm. The width is made exactly corresponding to the thickness of the frame, for example: a 5-chamber VEKA has a profile thickness of 70 mm, therefore the width of the reverse quarter should be 70 mm.

It is important to accurately calculate the dimensions of the frame and the window, carefully assemble the frame and install the frame in the opening exactly at the level - the internal clearance should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all edges of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without distortion. In order not to make a mistake in the dimensions, it is better to first make and install the window frame, and only then accurately measure and order the plastic window locally.

Let's assume that the window frame is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made such that it is slightly larger than the “clearance” of the casing, or more precisely: 10 mm more in width and the same amount in height. Such a window will not fit into the frame from the inside, but it will easily fit into the reverse quarter from the street side. In this case, the edges of the frame will “hide” behind a quarter of 5 mm on each side (this is no longer possible - the sash hinges will interfere), and an installation gap will remain around the frame, which will later be filled with foam.

The frame is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, as already described above. To ensure a beautiful tight connection between the frame and the casing from the room side, you can use a D-shaped door seal. It is glued before installing the frame with the adhesive side on the edge of the quarter. Accordingly, the dimensions of the quarter must be adjusted for the seal.

But as practice shows, when high-quality manufacturing pigtails there is no need for such an addition. The window is placed directly into the quarter and the meringue of the gaps is pressed tightly against the frame.

When attaching the frame, we press it tightly against the quarter, squeezing the seal, and screw in the screws, fixing the window in this position. The installed window is foamed from the street. Then, after the foam has dried, its excess is cut off, the seam is sealed with waterproofing tape or sealed with “STIZ-A” sealant, and the trim is installed.

Of course, since we refuse interior decoration any casing additional elements, then they must ennoble it, i.e. give it a look that matches interior design premises.

First of all, you need to give the bottom crossbar the shape of a window sill so that its inner edge protrudes slightly from the wall and is slightly wider than the opening.

Secondly, we “dawn” the internal surfaces of the racks and the top, i.e. we abandon the primitive rectangular (in cross-section) shape of these elements and create a large chamfer, simulating a reversal of the slopes.

Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many options here: texture, color - the choice is yours. You can simply sand the surface and coat it with varnish. You can cover the wood with stain desired color so that the surface of the casing is in harmony with the color of the window and/or the color of the walls.

There is also, in my opinion, an interesting, but more expensive option - to brush the surface, i.e. antiqued treatment.

Artificial aging of antique wood is now very popular in various designer styles. The essence of brushing technology is to remove soft fibers from the surface of wood using a metal brush (along the fibers), while the surface turns from smooth to embossed. After giving the relief texture, the wood is cleaned of lint and fibers, then the final gloss is given.

You can immediately coat the wood with varnish, but “aged” wood will look much more impressive after treating it with stain of the color you want. However, there is even more effective way painting - patina - creating a contrast between dark wood pores and a lighter surface.

This is achieved using paint of the desired color: it covers the entire front surface of the casing, and then upper layer removed with a cloth before the paint has had time to dry. Final stage artificial aging- varnish coating. It is applied in two or three layers. Then you can rub the surface soft cloth to add shine.

Repair work in a wooden house differs significantly from similar buildings in other types. Most companies do not provide a guarantee for installations carried out here, especially for windows. Isn't this a reason to think about DIY installation? Armed with a step-by-step video, you can achieve high-quality results, significantly saving your family budget.

Features of installing a window system in a wooden house

There are many prejudices about wooden houses. The service life of the windows installed here depends entirely on the quality of the structure itself and compliance with the technology of the installation process.

You cannot start working on a window opening in a new wooden house right away. To avoid deformation in the future, it is recommended to wait some time for the structure to stand, the wood to dry and evaporate excess moisture, the walls became static. Thus, the chance of the opening being undermined is minimized.

The outer part of a wooden house is not chosen as a place for a window. The opening may be in the center or closer to one of the corners, but not in contact with it.

Window opening cutting diagram

The installation process itself is not too labor-intensive: it can be done with one pair of hands in a few hours. Subtleties of carrying out preparatory work depend on whether the windows have already been installed before or whether the casing needs to be created from scratch. A similar technology can be used to install PVC in any wooden building: bathhouse, gazebo, etc.

Preparing the workspace

To install plastic windows yourself, you need solid foundation- frame. If the previous windows were installed over the past few years, did not have time to acquire physical damage and were not touched by rot, then you can use the box from them as a frame for new system. With this option, measurements are made according to the new size of the opening, focusing on the preserved box.

If PVC is installed in a new building, then you will have to take care of the piping. This is the name given to the design that prevents the window system from deformation. There are several types:

• With a mortgage block;
• In the groove of the log wall;
• On a spike in the wall;
• With a quarter.

Window trimming is one of the necessary steps installing a plastic window in a wooden house

Using a rag, you can remove dirt, dust and start taking measurements. The reliability and feasibility of carrying out all further work: Inattention at this stage can jeopardize the entire installation.

Advice. If the opening is distorted, then to create a plan diagram with measurements, they are guided by the supposedly correct geometric shape and right angles, and the deformations are removed using sealant or ordinary putty.

Window sill installation and window preparation

It is the basis of the entire window system, so its installation must be carried out with a level: the horizontal surface must be ideal from both longitudinal and transverse positions.

To do the work yourself, the following algorithm of actions is used:

1. Small recesses (at least 5 mm) are made in the window frame for additional fixation of the window sill.
2. Using plates made of fibreboard, plastic or treated wood antiseptic, level the window sill.
3. The window sill is installed using self-tapping screws. It is necessary to place a gasket or washer under the caps to prevent cracks. For self-tapping screws, you need to choose a place where they will be hidden by the future window. Typically, it is located at a distance of 2-4 cm from the end.
4. After installing the window sill, check its horizontalness using a building level.

Overall, install pvc window in a wooden house does not cause any particular difficulties if you familiarize yourself with all the nuances of the work in advance

As for the window itself, before installation it is necessary to attach the handle in the down position (closed state).

Attention! No need to take off protective film completely: just open it slightly at the place where the handle is attached.

Window installation

Installing a window in a prepared area of ​​a wooden house is no different from installing it in another structure. The process is performed in the following sequence:

1. Marking window frame and drilling mounting holes. The procedure is carried out using a 6 mm drill for a corresponding self-tapping screw 1 mm smaller in diameter.
2. Installation of the system in the opening. In this case, they focus on the window sill, the even level of which, thanks to additional control, is beyond doubt. The center is determined using a measuring tape.
3. Level relative to the wall. To ensure that the window is parallel to the surface of the wall, use a plumb line. If it is finished with siding, which allows you to place a level between the trim and the wall, then you can use it.
4. Fixing a beam that would completely fill the space between the window and its frame. It will become a stop for further installation. Installation without it may lead to blocking of the window opening/closing mechanism.
5. The window is fastened using self-tapping screws from the bottom and top of the side posts, so that they do not interfere with the free opening of the window in the frame.
6. Foaming cracks and removing excess foam.

Installing a PVC window yourself can save up to 60% of the family budget. Following the detailed instructions for their installation will make the structure resistant to seasonal deformations of the wood, extending the service life of the system for a long time.

Video: Installing plastic windows in a wooden house

Photo: Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house

Today, PVC double-glazed windows are very popular among the population. This is explained by good performance qualities designs. Plastic windows are installed not only in city apartments, but also in private wooden houses. Wooden buildings are not rigid, so the installation of double-glazed windows in such structures has certain features. This article will tell you how to choose and insert a PVC product into a window opening in a wooden house yourself.

Before you buy a double-glazed window, you need to dismantle the old window, measure the window opening, and draw up a diagram. To prepare a drawing for this you will need a tape measure. The quality of installation depends on how correctly the measurement is performed. It should be taken into account that in a wooden house the window opening has parallel slopes.

Measurement is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Defined with border load-bearing wall. Plaster on slopes is often thicker. An adjustment is made for it by a plus of 2 centimeters.
2. Measure the distance between the side slopes at the bottom and top.
3. Determine the height from the window sill to the upper slope on the left and right.
4. Measure the width of the opening from wall to wall, bottom and top.
5. Measure the height from the top of the opening to the ebb on the right and left.

The width of the window sill should be equal to the width of the wall. If you plan to replace the old one window design from wood to a new one made of PVC, then the openings are slightly widened. To change the geometry of the opening, use an electric or chainsaw.

Often, when comparing measurements of a window opening on the right and left, above and below, the master identifies discrepancies in the results. This is due to the skew of the existing opening. This is especially true for panel and frame structures.

To determine exact dimensions, use a rectangle with equal opposite sides.

Considering the presence of an old frame, plaster and other factors, you need to strive for the following indicators:

• The height of the window should ensure that there is a gap between the window and the lower slope, which is equal to the thickness of the window sill. The approximate value is 8-9 centimeters.
• The standard window width is several centimeters less than the width of the opening relative to the slopes.

Having completed all the measurements and the drawing according to the rules, you can order the window, fasteners and window sill. Typically it takes about 10 days for production and delivery. If you cannot measure the window opening yourself, then it is better to seek help from specialists. But it is worth considering that the prices for this service are considerable. Photos of the work can be viewed on the forums.

What will be needed for installation?

When the double-glazed window is manufactured and delivered, it is allowed to begin its installation. This work requires certain skills, knowledge of rules and installation technology. It is necessary to prepare certain tools and buy special fasteners.

Here is a set of tools and materials that will be useful for high-quality installation double-glazed windows in a wooden and timber house:

When the glass unit is delivered, it must be kept in room temperature. Acclimatization of the product before installation is important for quality installation.

Step-by-step instructions for DIY installation

For the PVC installation to be successful, you must complete certain order actions. Typically, the manufacturer provides detailed installation instructions for a specific glass unit model. It must be strictly followed. First you need to install the socket or casing in the embedded block. Then the glass unit is inserted.

Inserting a plastic window into a log house has some methods and features. Installing a PVC structure in a wooden house with your own hands is possible. But this will require the help of a second person: the size and weight of the structure are large, making it difficult to carry the window alone.

Often, those people who installed double-glazed windows in a wooden house with their own hands have a problem with the windows sweating, condensation accumulating on them, or, conversely, leaking through the frame due to insufficient sealing. The reason why this happens lies in mistakes made during installation. Therefore, the installation must be carried out responsibly and competently, in warm and calm weather.

Correct installation of the pigtail

A window frame is an element of window construction that removes all gaps and cracks between frames and helps retain heat in the room.

Is it necessary? Also, the casing does not allow the side bars to move horizontally and allows them to move vertically. This protects the glass from cracking. The socket is especially important if the wall between neighboring windows small. In addition, this element acts as a decoration for a wooden house.

Installing a doorway frame has some peculiarities. First you need to prepare the window opening. It should be at least 10 centimeters wider than the frame. When calculating the size of the gap, it is important to take into account the thickness of the boards and casing seams. The shrinkage coefficient of a wooden house is also taken into account. Subsequently, the gap is filled with special insulation and covered with platbands.

According to statistics, shrinkage of a wooden house can be up to 30 centimeters. Much depends on the material. Within a year after construction, the shrinkage of a structure made from timber is 3-4 centimeters, from logs – 4-6 centimeters, from laminated timber – 1-3 centimeters. The subsidence of the room already in the first year can cause the window to be pressed down by the crowns of the wall structure. Sometimes shrinkage of walls occurs even after 5 years of operation of the structure under the influence of air humidity and seasonal climate changes.

After preparing the window opening, the ridge is cut out. For this purpose, it is preferable to use glued or monolithic timber. This element will be the base for the carriage with a groove. During shrinkage, the logs will move inside this groove. This will relieve the window of unnecessary load.

To make a carriage, use a beam with a cross-section of 15x10 centimeters. There should be a groove 5 centimeters wide in the middle of the beam more windows. The comb is cut out using a chainsaw. For the topper they use edged board dimensions 15x4 centimeters. On each side, grooves are cut into it for the comb. After installing the carriages on the sides of the window opening, the top is fastened with self-tapping screws. After assembling the casing, caulk all the gaps and make a seal using jute tape.

Plastic window insert

After the frame is made and installed, they move on to inserting the plastic window. Installing a window without casing is considered a gross mistake. First you need to check the parallels. Leave gaps between the PVC glass unit and the frame of 5 centimeters on top and 2 centimeters on the sides.

It is important to correctly install the window structure according to the depth of the wall of a wooden house. Then on the surface of the glass, slopes and window frames when sub-zero temperature condensation will not form outside, which causes glass fogging and getting wet window system and interior finishing of slopes. The location of the double-glazed unit should be determined by a competent designer, taking into account design features walls.

It is better to attach the structure to special elements. They are supplied complete with double-glazed windows and are also sold at any hardware store. These elements are metal plates with holes. Their prices are reasonable. How much the fasteners cost depends on the window model and the quality of the product. Some owners of wooden houses decide to use self-tapping screws for fastening. Is not the best option, since such parts do not provide proper thermal insulation and tightness of the structure.

The window is inserted using a level. Otherwise, the double-glazed window may be installed crookedly. And this reduces the performance characteristics of the window and negatively affects the aesthetic appearance of the product.

Before installing a white plastic window, experts recommend removing the sashes. This will reduce the weight of the window, making installation easier and more convenient. The window is inserted into the opening, aligned and secured. Then all existing gaps are sealed with special polyurethane foam. To make the fixation more reliable, bars are used. This way the window will not move during foaming. This completes the installation of double-glazed windows in the window opening of a wooden house. All that remains is to put on the flaps and let the foam dry. To improve the protection of a wooden house from bad weather and extend the service life of a plastic window, you should additionally install a drip molding on the outside of the window.

Why is it better to install a PVC window?

PVC windows have many advantages over their wooden counterparts. The only plus wooden structures is a more presentable appearance. But Lately Manufacturers of double-glazed windows offer different colors and models of products. In addition, the frame of a plastic window for a veranda can be lined with a textured film that imitates wood.

Unlike wooden frames plastic ones have the following advantages:

• Resistance to aggressive detergents. Plastic can be cleaned with compounds prepared on the basis of acids and alkalis, which remove all types of contaminants. Wood, even impregnated with a special protective composition, has low resistance to aggressive substances. It can only be cleaned by wiping with a sponge dipped in soapy water.
• Resistance to mechanical influences. It is extremely difficult to damage a metal-plastic profile. But chips on a wooden frame often appear.
  Availability. The price of blind plastic windows is 1.5 times cheaper than wooden frames. Even designs from inexpensive coniferous species will cost more than a plastic product. But a frame made of noble wood - for example, cedar, oak, ash or beech - costs at least twice as much as a PVC window.

Also, the advantages of using plastic windows in wooden houses include:

In view of the masses positive qualities and advantages, plastic windows are being installed today by an increasing number of owners of wooden houses.

Thus, it is preferable to install in a wooden house. This is the most affordable, reliable and attractive-looking product. Installation and cladding of PVC windows in a country house is not difficult. The main thing is to follow the instructions and work in tandem with an assistant. If you have doubts about the possibility of high-quality installation of a plastic window with your own hands, then you should seek help from specialists. This service is offered by various companies engaged in the production and sale of double-glazed windows. But you will have to pay a certain amount of money for the work of the master. On the other hand, the work is guaranteed to be done with high quality, which means that the structure will last a long time. You can watch a video of self-installation of a plastic window below.

Windows made of strong and durable plastic can be found today not only in stone, but also in wooden buildings.

However, their installation in a wooden wall differs significantly from installation in stone structures. The reason for this is the significant shrinkage of wood during the drying period.

For raw material it can reach 6-8% (1.2-1.6 cm per 1 meter of log height).

Drying wood turns into a powerful press that easily deforms the window block. The doors do not open after such an impact, and the frame is severely warped.

It turns out that high-quality installation of plastic windows in a wooden house is not possible - you ask? No, it is quite real, but only if you follow special technology. We will consider this in our article.

How to properly install a plastic window in a wooden wall?

In order to eliminate the pressure of the wall on the window block, the craftsmen came up with special “sleds”, popularly called frames or casings. The idea of ​​this technology is very simple: a vertical protrusion-ridge is made with a chainsaw on the end part of the window opening logs.

A window carriage is put on it - wooden beam with a vertical groove cut into it. There is no rigid connection with screws or nails between the opening and the carriage. As a result, due to the sliding tongue-and-groove connection, we get a frame that moves freely along with the drying wall.

Thanks to this original solution, the plastic window installed in the casing is not subject to the destructive forces of deformation of the log house.

The pigtail performs several important functions in a wooden wall:

• prevents logs from moving from the vertical;
• does not interfere with the vertical shrinkage of the log house;
• strengthens the wall in the window opening area.

Now let's take a closer look at how to install plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands using a casing box.

Features of installing plastic windows in wooden walls

You need to be very careful when cutting the ridge at the ends of the window opening, marking it using a level. Any deviation from the vertical and any inaccuracies in the tongue-groove joint will negatively affect the operation of the socket, disrupting its free movement along the wall.

Having made the ridge cutouts, you can begin making window carriages. These are planed wooden blocks with a cross section of 150x100 mm. At their ends it is necessary to make cutouts measuring 5x5 cm for inserting horizontal jumpers (150x50 mm board with two tenons at the ends).

When making a casing box, keep in mind that its height is assembled form must be less height window opening by 7-8 cm. If you make a window frame without such a gap, then the upper crowns, when the wall shrinks, will put pressure on the box, deforming it.

In order to correctly insert a plastic window in a wooden house, you need to adhere to the sequence of operations established by experienced craftsmen.

First you need to cover the ridges of the window opening with tow and secure it with a stapler or small nails. This is necessary to insulate the joint and eliminate squeaks. After this, the lower lintel of the frame is placed in the window opening. Then carriages (side bars of the casing) are stuffed onto the ridges. The second jumper is inserted into the upper cutout of the carriage and lowered to a horizontal position. Having assembled the box, you need to carefully fasten it with self-tapping screws so that they do not go into the ridges of the log house. Otherwise, the casing will not “work” because the screws will not allow it to slide along the wall.

All the cracks remaining in window opening After installing the pigtails, fill them tightly with tow. Next, using standard technology, the installation of a plastic window is carried out with all the accompanying operations to ensure protection of the junction area with the casing from moisture, heat loss and noise penetration.

The gap between the frame and the wall of the log house is filled with thin boards wrapped in rolled tow. As the walls shrink, they are knocked out one by one. To do this, remove the top trim (it is attached only to the frame) and, removing the unnecessary “compensation” board, put it back in place.

The finishing of a plastic window in a wooden house is no different from the decorative cladding of a regular frame. It is highly advisable to order not standard white plastic windows, but those covered with a special film that imitates the color and texture of natural wood. They will look natural against the background of a chopped wall. Having completed the insulation and sealing of the joints, the window block with the frame is sheathed inside and outside with wooden casing.

Until now we have talked about the installation of plastic window blocks in new log buildings. But is such technology necessary if we are talking about an old wooden house?

Experienced craftsmen say that a socket is necessary here. The fact is that any log house, even after 5 years of shrinkage and shrinkage, does not stop changing its size. Wood is a living, porous material. Therefore, when it rains outside, the logs and beams swell. During the hot summer, the reverse process occurs and even an old hundred-year-old log house loses several centimeters from its previous “wet” height.

It should be noted that the old window frame is absolutely not suitable for the role of a frame, since it cannot slide along the surface of the wall, compensating for its shrinkage.

Therefore, the owner has two options:

1. install plastic windows in a wooden house, reducing the size of existing openings by the width of the casing + gap for sealant;
2. keep the same window area, but increase the openings for installing the frames by cutting through the walls.

Concluding our review, let's say that installing a plastic window in wooden wall- not a very complicated process. With a careful and attentive attitude to the work, it can be done efficiently on your own, without involving “expensive” craftsmen.

Addition to the article

We sometimes receive additional questions that cannot always be answered in the comments. We will answer such questions further and give options for solving a specific problem.

Good afternoon
Installing a plastic window in a log house is clear, but how is a plastic window installed in a house on the pediment, in which an opening for the window is formed from an 80x100mm board?

This installation option is simple. Just before installation, it is advisable to attach an antiseptic 20x20 mm strip along the contour of your box (it will act as a quarter, protecting the polyurethane foam sealant from solar radiation). If you have already made a quarter in the board, then you will not need to install a batten.

We place the plastic window on spacers (to create a gap into which the foam will be blown). After this, we carefully go through the entire contour with sealant. You can additionally secure the window in the opening using metal mounting plates. However, foam alone will hold the window securely.

It has not retreated from the outer edge of the window block, but the house is old, the window block is level and in some places there is a 50 mm board facing the outside of the street, and now it is getting cold. What can be done?

The best option is to remove the window unit and install it in the opening with a quarter space, as shown in the previous diagram.

An acceptable option is to make a thick board around the window block outside the wall so that you get quarters that cover the joint of the window block with the wall from blowing. Seal all leaks and gaps with foam or tow.

Due to their performance characteristics, double-glazed windows made of PVC material have gained particular popularity among the population. They are installed in buildings and structures made of concrete, brick, and wood. Installing plastic windows in a wooden house requires following certain rules.

Important installation details

When starting the installation, you need to prepare the equipment you will need: building level and plumb line, and also know how to insert a plastic window. It is necessary to install a PVC window strictly observing the placement in a level plane. This will ensure correct work all elements, the doors will not open or close spontaneously.

The technology for installing a PVC window involves its correct placement in a level plane

When purchasing plastic structures, you need to buy additional special fasteners for installation. The frame is fixed in the frame of a wooden structure using self-tapping screws and special fasteners. Observing technological process and correctly installing plastic windows in a wooden house, you are guaranteed to receive window blocks that will last long time.

The window frame is secured using anchor plates

If you dismantle the sashes, the structure will become much lighter and it will be easier to move it, but mounting metal-plastic windows It is still not recommended to go alone in a wooden house. To remove the doors, you need to remove the pins from the hinges.

How to install PVC double-glazed windows

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows in a wooden house is carried out in stages:

• preparatory activities before installation;
• installation of PVC windows;
• control and verification of location in space;
• blowing with foam.

To understand how to install plastic windows both in a wooden house and in a timber or log house, let’s look at each stage in more detail.

Carrying out preparatory work

First of all, you need to take exact dimensions by measuring the opening and order the window structure from a trusted manufacturer. To do this, most often they invite a representative of a company that produces plastic frames. You can take measurements yourself. After this, they determine the color of the structure and the completeness of the fittings necessary for the functioning of the window.

When the manufacturer delivers the product to the site, the following steps must be completed:

• if the decision is made to replace installed windows in the old opening, first of all, it is necessary to dismantle the structure;
• after which they clean dust, dirt and remove debris that got into the opening from dismantling;
• It is worth aligning the opening if its geometry is broken.

Having completed the preparation, they insert a plastic window into a wooden house with their own hands.

Fastening the window structure into the prepared opening

We install the window sill first; it will be the base for the double-glazed windows, so it needs to be placed strictly level (horizontally). For fastening strength, notches are made on the sides of the box approximately 8 mm deep. Adjustment is carried out using plastic plates or boards. Fastening occurs with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the box. When screwing in, you should place washers under the screw head; this will prevent damage to the surface.

The window sill is installed strictly horizontally

The next step will be correct installation pens. The film that protects the structures should not be removed; it protects them from damage when the windows are installed. When attaching, the handle must be placed horizontally. When all the fittings have been assembled, the installation of metal-plastic windows begins.

First you need to level the PVC frame. A frame is placed on two-centimeter bars and leveled horizontally, using a water level. After this, they move on to vertical alignment.

Having obtained ideal parameters at the water level, fix the frame with self-tapping screws to the frame, using mounting brackets, which were specially bought in the store. It is important not to get the self-tapping screw into the ridge of the log where the socket is installed.

Secure the frame with self-tapping screws

After attaching the window element, we get 2-centimeter gaps around it for the mounting foam.

Before Use polyurethane foam, you need to hang the sashes so that after foaming the frame profile does not bend and damage the window. It is important to remember that foam can only be used when the sash is closed..

Control and foaming of the structure

After hanging the sashes, you need to check how the double-glazed window opens and closes. If a window that is half open does not close or move further, then the frame is considered to be installed correctly and the alignment is correct. After closing the sash, foam it with installation foam and leave it for complete fixation for a day.

Why is casing made for plastic windows in a timber house?

To obtain quality windows PVC in a wooden house, you must strictly observe the installation features, that is, install it to a special frame (base). The need for such a design is due to the characteristics of wooden buildings. Unlike a building made of stone (concrete or brick), a wooden panel house is unstable throughout long period.

The casing prevents frame deformation when the house shrinks

The building will be completed within the first five years after its construction. In this case, the walls dry out up to 6 cm. This important nuance must be taken into account when installing a plastic window in frame house. It is clear that you cannot simply insert a plastic window into a wooden house; you need to create a structure for the opening, which is called a casing, or they also say a window frame. Its direct purpose is to prevent the frame from being affected by wall shrinkage, so the socket:

• strengthens the opening;
• bears the load;
• prevents the effects of shrinkage.

The pigtail looks like a box made from thick boards. The structure is attached to the side rack on a groove, no fasteners are used. There is a gap left above the jamb to compensate for shrinkage for a wooden house. There are several options for installing it:

• A groove is cut in the log into which the block is placed. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the last element of the embedded beam;
• a groove is cut out in the racks on the sides of the structure, a tenon is cut out from the end of the log in the opening;
• A groove is made at the end of the logs, and a tenon is placed on the side posts of the box.

Casing options

To get a high-quality design, you need to follow the technology for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. To begin with, cover the ridges of the logs with insulation and secure it with staples or small nails. This stage is necessary to insulate the house and eliminate creaks. Then the lower crossbar of the casing is mounted, and carriages (side posts of the frame) are stuffed onto the ridges, and the upper jumper is placed in the upper groove of the posts. After collecting the box, carefully connect it with self-tapping screws, it is important that they do not get into the logs.

The gaps that are visible in the opening after installing the casing must be filled with tow or insulation. Then the standard installation of plastic windows in a frame house or log house takes place.

The cracks are sealed with insulation or tow.

The compensation gap is filled with flat boards pre-wrapped with tow. As the walls shrink, they are gradually knocked out. To do this, remove the top casing and, having knocked out the board, put it back.

The final stage when glazing a wooden structure

Finishing after PVC installations Windows in a log house are made in the same way as wooden ones, that is, after installing the frame structure and insulation, wooden trim is installed. When ordering PVC windows in a wooden structure, you should take a closer look at the option with a wood texture, this will allow them to look harmonious against the background of the felled structure.

Many manufacturers of PVC structures offer not only classic white version frame colors You can order any shade that the customer desires. Colored plastic frames will cost a little more, but will become more suitable option for a home made of natural materials.

When ordering, it is important to take the correct measurements of the opening and not make a mistake in the width of the window sill. Self-installation of a PVC window in a wooden house if you know all the nuances is not such a difficult process. You can do it yourself, without resorting to the help of expensive installers.

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