Climbing rose does not bloom: what to do. Climbing roses: planting, care, cultivation and propagation

Planting and caring for climbing roses (in brief)

Landing: from the last ten days of September to mid-October or from mid-April to the end of May.
Bloom: from late spring to late autumn.
Lighting: bright light in the first half of the day, diffused light or partial shade in the second.
The soil: optimal - moisture-permeable fertile loam with deep groundwater.
Watering: once every 7-10 days, spending 1-2 buckets of water on each bush.
Feeding: bushes of the first year are fed only in August with potassium fertilizer, bushes of the second year are fed with full mineral and organic fertilizers alternately, making 5 feedings per season, and from the third year of life, roses are fed in the same regime, but exclusively with organic matter. During flowering, roses are not fertilized.
Garter: as a support you can use a fence, a house wall, a dry tree or special structures - gratings, arches and arcs made of metal rods. The shoots are tied to the support with twine.
Trimming: in spring and autumn.
Reproduction: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting.
Pests: aphids, spider mites, thrips, roseate sawflies, leaf rollers, cicadas.
Diseases: powdery mildew, bacterial cancer, koniothyrium, gray mold, black spot.

Read more about growing climbing roses below.

Climbing roses - description

Give general description climbing roses, the task is too difficult due to their huge diversity, so we suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the classification of climbing roses accepted in international floriculture practice.

The first group of climbing roses, the so-called climbing roses, or Rambler roses, are plants with long creeping or arched flexible bright green thorny stems up to five meters or more in length. The leaves of the Rambler climbing rose are leathery, shiny and small. The flowers are slightly fragrant, simple, semi-double or double, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences and located along the entire length of the shoot. The abundant flowering of climbing roses of this group lasts a little more than a month in the first half of summer. Most varieties are frost-resistant and overwinter well under light shelter. Plants of the Rambler group originated from species such as the Vihura rose and the multifloral rose (multiflora).

As a result of crossing a group of rambler roses with tea, hybrid tea, remontant roses and floribunda roses, a group of climbing roses with shoots up to four meters long was formed, which were called climbing roses - Climber, or climbing large-flowered roses - climbers. Roses of this group bloom profusely big flowers- from 4 cm in diameter or more - collected in small loose inflorescences, many varieties bloom twice per season. The shape of the flowers resembles hybrid tea roses. Plants of this group are relatively winter-hardy and are almost not affected by powdery mildew.

The third group, Climbing, was formed by mutating large-flowered bush roses - hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda. Climings differ from producing species only in stronger growth, later fruiting and even more large flowers- from four to eleven centimeters in diameter, which grow singly or in small inflorescences. Many climbing varieties bloom repeatedly. Roses of this group are grown only in the southern regions of the temperate zone with mild, warm winters.

Planting climbing roses

When and where to plant climbing roses.

All types of roses are quite capricious - it’s not for nothing that the rose is called the queen of flowers. Climbing roses are no exception - planting and caring for climbing roses must be thought out to the smallest detail, and growing climbing roses should begin with choosing a site. These plants need bright light in the first half of the day so that the sun can dry the dew on the leaves and leave no chance for fungal diseases to settle on the roses, but the midday sun can already cause burns on the leaves and delicate petals of the plant, so in the afternoon the area with climbing roses must be protected from direct rays. In addition, the place where climbing roses grow must be protected from the cold north and northeast wind, and the location of a climbing rose on the corner of a building is undesirable due to drafts that depress tender plant. It is best to place climbing roses on the south side of the building, especially since they do not require much space - for planting roses, a strip of land fifty centimeters wide is enough, provided that the nearest wall, plant or any other object is no closer to the rose than half a meter to a meter.

The soil for climbing roses should be permeable, but where groundwater are too close to the surface, roses are planted on specially constructed elevations - root system climbing roses sometimes go two meters deep. To avoid stagnation of water in the roots, roses are planted in an area located on a slope, at least minimally. Of all types of soil, loam is most suitable for climbing roses. Too light sandy or heavy clay soils will have to be adapted: sand is added to the clay for digging to the depth of a spade bayonet, and clay is added to sandy soil, and in order for the soils to become fertile, humus or humus must be added to them along with bone meal as phosphorus fertilizer. It is necessary to prepare the area for the rose in advance - preferably six months or at least a month or two before planting.

As for the timing of planting, in conditions temperate climate It is best to plant roses from the last ten days of September to mid-October. You can plant roses in the spring - from mid-April to the end of May.

Planting climbing roses in autumn.

Before moving on to describing the landing process, it makes sense to talk about what planting material prefer. Both seedlings of self-rooted roses and seedlings of roses grafted onto rose hips are available for sale. What's the difference between them? Grafted roses differ from self-rooted roses in that their root represents one plant, and the shoots represent another, that is, the scion of a varietal climbing rose is grafted onto the root of a rose hip. Therefore, planting and caring for a grafted rose, although slightly, differ from planting and caring for a rooted rose. For example, the planting depth of a grafted rose should be such that the grafting site is 10 cm below the surface level. A grafted rose planted in this way begins to form roots from the cultivated part of the bush, and the rosehip roots, losing their purpose, gradually die off. If the grafting site is left above the surface, the plant will become depleted and eventually die, since the cultivated part of the seedling is evergreen, and rosehip is a deciduous plant, and this discrepancy between the scion and rootstock will lead to a sad end if planted incorrectly.

Seedlings of climbing roses with an open root system should be soaked in water for a day before planting. Then you need to remove leaves from the shoots, trim immature and broken shoots with pruning shears, dusting the cuts with crushed coal, shorten both the roots and the above-ground part to 30 cm, remove the buds from the grafted seedlings located below the grafting site so that rose hips do not develop from them. After this, the seedlings are disinfected by immersing them in a three percent solution of copper sulfate.

Planting holes for climbing roses are dug 50x50 in size, keeping a distance of at least a meter between them. The top, fertile layer of soil, removed from each hole, is mixed with half a bucket of manure and part of this mixture is poured into the holes, then the holes are well watered. This should be done a day or two before planting. On the day of planting, prepare a mixture for pre-planting treatment of rose roots. To do this, dissolve three tablets of phosphorobacterin and one tablet of heteroauxin in half a liter of water and pour this solution into nine and a half liters of clay mash. Dip the roots of the seedling into the mash before lowering them into the hole. Place a mound of soil and manure mixture at the bottom of the hole, place a seedling on it, the roots of which have been treated with mash, carefully straighten the roots, cover them with the same mixture of soil and manure and compact the surface thoroughly. And remember: the grafting site of a rose grafted onto a rose hip should be at a depth of about ten centimeters underground, and the root neck of a rose hip should be no less than five centimeters. After planting, the rose is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, soil is added to the tree trunk circle and the seedling is hilled to a height of at least 20 cm.

Planting climbing roses in spring.

Climbing roses planted in the spring are two weeks behind in development compared to roses planted in the fall and require more attention. Before planting, the shoots of seedlings are shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots to 30 cm. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, hilled high and covered with film to create greenhouse conditions that contribute to faster survival of the seedlings. The film must be lifted every day for a few minutes to ventilate the seedlings. It is advisable to gradually increase the ventilation time, since at the same time the seedlings are hardening. When the threat of return frosts has passed, the film is removed and the area is mulched. If you planted roses after frost in dry, warm weather, after planting, mulch the tree trunks with peat or any other suitable material.

Caring for climbing roses in the garden

How to care for a climbing rose.

Caring for climbing roses involves regularly watering the plant, fertilizing, pruning, fighting possible diseases or pests, and preparing for winter. Due to their structure, climbing roses need support. Climbing roses are quite drought-resistant, and large quantities they do not need water - they are moistened once a week or a decade according to the principle “less is better, but more often,” that is, 1-2 buckets of water are spent on each bush. To prevent water from spreading, make a low earthen rampart around the tree trunk circle. Two to three days after watering, in order to retain moisture in the soil and provide air access to the roots, loosen the soil around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm. To reduce the labor intensity of caring for roses, mulch the soil around the tree trunk with peat, then water and loosen you will have to soil much less frequently.

Young bushes are not fed until August, since the nutrients contained in the soil have not yet been used up; closer to autumn, a solution of potassium salts is added to the soil to prepare the roses for wintering. It is best to use an infusion for these purposes. wood ash. When feeding bushes in the second year of life, organic fertilizers alternate with mineral ones, and from the third year they switch exclusively to organic fertilizers, which can be used as a solution of one liter of manure and a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water. Manure can be replaced with any other organic fertilizer. During the growing season it is necessary to apply at least five fertilizing applications. Fertilizers are not applied during flowering.

Support for climbing roses.

The variety of supports for climbing roses is amazing: you can use an old dry tree, a lattice or arch made of metal, wood or polymers, as well as metal rods bent in an arc as a support. However, no other plant will decorate a faceless wall or an unattractive building like climbing roses, planted no closer than half a meter from the wall. Place a lattice or vertical guides on the wall to which you will tie growing and flowering shoots, and an unremarkable structure will be transformed. However, you should know that on horizontally located vines flowers appear along their entire length, and on vertically mounted ones - only in their upper part.

Plastic twine is used as fastening material, and in no case do they resort to wire, coming up with all sorts of tricks, for example, wrapping the wire in paper or fabric. The stems are firmly attached to the support, taking care, however, that the twine does not injure the stem. Inspect the supports regularly, as they sometimes break under the weight of branches or the wind, and this can cause severe damage to the plant. dig in supporting structure you need no closer than 30-50 cm from the bush.

Transplanting climbing roses.

An adult plant is usually replanted only for the sake of saving it, if time has shown that the place for the rose was chosen poorly. Climbing roses are replanted in the fall - in September or early October, no later, so that the plant has time to take root in its new location before winter. Sometimes transplantation is carried out in the spring, before the kidneys awaken. Before transplanting, roses are removed from their support, all young shoots are kept from the ramblers, but their tops are pinched at the end of August to speed up the lignification of the shoots, and shoots older than two years are removed. For climbers and climbers, all long shoots are shortened by half. Then the bushes are carefully dug in a circle, stepping back from the center at a distance equal to two bayonets of a shovel. You need to dig deep, trying to keep the entire root system intact. Having dug up the plant, shake off the soil from its roots, cut off the torn and shaggy ends of the roots with pruning shears and transplant the plant into a pre-prepared hole, straightening the roots when planting so that they do not bend. After you fill the hole soil mixture, compact the surface and pour plenty of water. After a few days, when the soil settles, add more soil mixture to level the surface of the area, and do not forget to hill the plant high.

Pests and diseases of climbing roses.

Among insects, climbing roses are bothered by aphids and spider mites. If the rose is not completely infested with aphids, try to control the pests with folk remedies without resorting to chemicals. You can remove aphids mechanically: hold a bud, leaf or stem with your gloved hands and remove the aphids. This method is good if the aphids have just appeared, but if they have already taken root on your rose and have begun to multiply, grate the soap, fill it with water, let the solution brew and, when the soap dissolves, strain the solution and spray the roses with it. If this measure does not produce results, buy an insecticide against aphids in the store, which is marked “for roses and grapes,” and treat the rose with it, choosing a quiet, windless evening for this. As for spider mites, they appear on plants only during the dry, hot period if you chronically forget to water them. Ticks settle on bottom side leaves, feed on their juice, entangling the leaves with a web. The leaves of the affected plant acquire a silvery tint. In the fight against spider mite these have proven themselves well folk remedies, like infusions of yarrow, wormwood, tobacco or shag, after treatment with which 80 to 100% of insects die on the third day. An infusion of wormwood is made as follows: place half a kilogram of fresh wormwood in a wooden vessel and pour ten liters cold water and leave for two weeks to ferment, then strain the starter, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:10 and treat the rose and the soil around it with the composition. If the situation requires urgent measures, treating the plant with Fitoverm will help, which can be repeated after two weeks if necessary. The method of use and dosage are indicated in the instructions for use of the drug.

Roses also have other pests - rose sawfly, cicada, leaf roller, thrips, but if you follow the conditions of the plant's agricultural practices, they will not become a problem for you. As a preventive measure, you can plant marigolds around the rose - this proximity will save the rose from many troubles. In addition, develop the habit of carrying out preventive spraying of roses with Bordeaux mixture in spring and autumn.

The most dangerous diseases for roses are koniothyrium, bacterial canker, powdery mildew, gray rot and black spot.

Bacterial cancer manifests itself as lumpy soft growths of varying sizes, which over time harden and darken from decomposition. The rose dries up and dies. There is no cure for bacterial cancer. Carefully inspect the planting material before purchasing, and before planting, disinfect the roots of the seedlings for two to three minutes in a three percent solution of copper sulfate. If you find signs of disease on an adult bush, immediately remove suspicious parts of the plant and treat the wounds with a solution of copper sulfate of the same consistency.

Koniothirium – fungal disease, the so-called cancer or bark burn. It is discovered in the spring, when the cover is removed from the roses: red-brown spots appear on the bark, gradually turning black and turning into rings around the shoot. Such shoots should be immediately cut off, capturing part of the healthy tissue, and burned to avoid infecting other plants. To avoid disease, you should stop adding nitrogen before wintering, replacing it with potassium fertilizers, which strengthen plant tissue. In addition, during thaws, you need to ventilate roses under cover.

Powdery mildew looks like a whitish coating on the above-ground parts of the plant, which over time acquires a brown tint. Contributes to the appearance of the disease high humidity air and sudden temperature fluctuations, excess nitrogen in the soil and improper watering. All affected parts of the plant are cut out and burned, after which the rose is treated with a three percent solution of iron or a two percent solution of copper sulfate.

Black spot manifested by the appearance on the leaves of dark red-brown spots with a yellow rim, which merge with the development of the disease, causing premature falling of the leaves. Can prevent the disease autumn feeding roses with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the root, as well as a three-stage treatment of the bush and the ground around it with a three percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate at intervals of a week.

Gray rot destroys stems, shoots, buds and leaves of climbing roses, sharply reduces their decorative value, reducing the intensity of flowering. If the disease has taken hold, the plant will have to be dug up and destroyed, but if you find it at the very beginning, you can destroy the fungal infection by treating the bush with a solution of 100 g of Bordeaux mixture in a bucket of water. If it is not possible to defeat the disease in one go, the treatment can be repeated three more times at weekly intervals.

Sometimes, with absolute and obvious health, a climbing rose does not bloom, and you study rose diseases and their symptoms with bewilderment, but cannot understand what the reason is. Sometimes the fact is that you bought an unsuccessful variety - one that blooms poorly, and besides, the location or composition of the soil turned out to be not what the rose requires. Or maybe it’s because last year’s shoots didn’t survive the winter well. Analyze all the information about climbing roses, and you will definitely find the reason.

Pruning climbing roses

When to prune climbing roses.

Pruning climbing roses is necessary to form a crown, stimulate abundant flowering throughout the entire height of the bush and to support the decorativeness of the plant decorating a particular object. Proper pruning can provide practically continuous flowering roses throughout the growing season. Special attention should be given to vegetative shoots, since the flowering of the bush mainly occurs on the shoots of last year. Pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. At the beginning of the growing season, dead shoots and frostbitten areas are removed from climbing roses of any group, and the ends of the shoots are cut to a strong outer bud. Subsequent pruning depends on how many times your rose blooms during the growing season - once or more.

How to prune climbing roses.

Roses that bloom once per season form flowers on the shoots of the previous year. Instead of faded (basal) shoots, from three to ten restoration shoots are formed, which will bloom next year, so the basal shoots after flowering must be cut at the root, and this should be done better in autumn, when preparing the plant for winter. U re blooming roses within three years, the main shoots form flowering branches different orders - from two to five. The flowering of these shoots weakens by the fifth year, so the main shoots in early spring should be cut to the ground after the fourth year. Reblooming bushes should have one to three annual restoration shoots and three to seven main flowering shoots. However, most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, from which only the tops with underdeveloped buds are removed in the spring.

Particular attention should be paid to young grafted roses planted this or last year: until the cultivated scion acquires its own root system, the roots of the rosehip rootstock will produce abundant growth, which must be removed immediately. In a year or two, when the rosehip root dies, the shoots will begin to produce scion roots.

Propagation of climbing roses

How to propagate climbing roses.

Climbing roses are propagated by seeds, as well as by layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way to propagate a rose is by layering, and propagation by cuttings gives good results. As for seed propagation, it is better to buy seed for this purpose in a store, since seeds collected from roses growing in the garden do not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, so it is not known what kind of rose will grow from them. However, it's worth a try for the sake of experimentation: after all, what are you risking?

Growing climbing roses from seeds.

Buy in a store or collect seeds of roses growing in your garden, place them in a sieve and dip them in a bowl with hydrogen peroxide for half an hour - this measure helps disinfect the seeds and prevents the appearance of mold during subsequent stratification seed material. Then spread the seeds on cotton pads soaked in hydrogen peroxide and cover the top with the same peroxide-soaked discs, place these “sandwiches” in individual plastic bags, write the date and name of the variety on them, put them in a container and put them in the vegetable section of the refrigerator. Check the condition of the seeds from time to time, and if you notice mold, soak them in peroxide again, replace the disks with new ones soaked in the same composition, and put them in the refrigerator again. After one and a half to two months, transfer the sprouted seeds to individual peat tablets or pots, mulching the surface with a thin layer of perlite to avoid infection with “black leg”. Seedlings will need ten hours of daylight and watering as the soil dries out. With normal development of seedlings, the first buds will appear within two months after planting the seeds in pots, and after another month and a half, the first flowers will open. Continue caring for the seedlings, feed them with a weak solution of complex fertilizer, and in the spring plant them in open ground and care for them as if they were an adult plant.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings.

The easiest way to do this is because in most cases this method gives one hundred percent results. You can take cuttings from fading or flowering shoots from mid-June to early August. The segment must have at least two internodes. The lower cut of the cutting is made under the bud at an angle of 45º, the upper cut is straight, as far as possible from the bud. Removed from cuttings lower leaves, the upper ones are shortened by half. The cutting is stuck to a depth of 1 cm into a pot with sand or a mixture of sand and soil, covered glass jar or plastic bottle and placed in a bright place, protected from direct sun rays. Water the soil in the pot without removing the jars. It is necessary to treat the lower cut of the cutting with a root-forming agent before planting only if you are dealing with a variety that does not root well, but in most cases, rooting of cuttings is easy.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering.

The shoot you have planned in the spring is cut under the buds, placed in a dug groove 10-15 cm wide and approximately the same depth, at the bottom of which a layer of humus is laid, sprinkled with a layer of earth, the cuttings are fixed in several places and covered with soil so that the top of the cutting remains above the surface of the area. When watering the bush, do not forget to water the buried cuttings. After a year, next spring, separate the cuttings from the mother plant and transplant them to a new location.

Grafting climbing roses.

Grafting the eye of a cultivated rose onto a rosehip root is called budding. This procedure is carried out from the end of July to the end of August. Before grafting, the rosehip is watered abundantly, then a T-shaped cut is made on the root collar of the rootstock, the bark is lifted and slightly pulled away from the wood. The peephole is cut from the cuttings of a cultivated rose along with the adjacent bark and layer of wood, the peephole is tightly inserted into the T-shaped cut and the grafting site is tightly wrapped with budding film. After this, the rosehip is hilled up at least 5 cm above the grafting site, after two weeks the bandage can be loosened, and in the spring of next year the film is removed completely.

Climbing roses after flowering

Climbing roses have faded - what to do?

At the beginning of autumn, climbing rose bushes begin to gradually prepare for winter. From the end of August they stop watering them, loosen the soil around them, and replace nitrogen in fertilizing with potassium. The tops of immature shoots are cut off. All climbing roses overwinter under cover, but to do this they must first be removed from the support and laid on the ground. A young bush can be laid down easily, but bending an old, powerful climbing rose to the ground is not a matter of one day; you may need a whole week for this, and the process must take place at above-zero temperatures, since even with light frost the stems become fragile and break. Please take this into account.

How to cover climbing roses for the winter.

They cover the rose when the temperature drops to -5 ºC; this should not be done earlier, since the rose will not have time to harden, and besides, it may dry out or begin to grow if it is under cover for too long without air. Climbing roses should be covered in dry, windless weather. Remove the roses from the support, clear the branches of foliage, trim off damaged shoots, tie the lashes with rope and carefully place them on a bed of spruce branches or dry leaves (under no circumstances place roses on bare ground!). Press or pin the roses to the ground, cover them with spruce branches, dry leaves or dry grass on top, cover the base of the bush with sand or earth, then cover the lying roses plastic film, lutrasil, roofing felt or some other waterproof material so that there is an air gap between the rose and the film.

Climbing roses in winter

During winter thaws in clear, dry weather, open the film briefly, allowing the roses to breathe in the winter air - this will benefit them. However, do not remove the spruce branches or leaves! As soon as signs of spring appear, remove the film - being under cover all winter without fresh air roses can get sick. Don’t be afraid that they may freeze - you didn’t forget to cover them with spruce branches.

Varieties of climbing roses

We offer you an introduction to some popular varieties of climbing roses, which we have divided into groups for convenience. So:

Varieties of small-flowered climbing roses (ramblers):

– Bobby James- a vigorous variety recognized throughout the world, up to 8 m in height with a crown width of up to 3 m, with bright green leaves, which are almost invisible during flowering due to the abundance of white-cream flowers with a musky aroma with a diameter of 4-5 cm. Needs in large space and strong supports. The variety is frost-resistant. If you asked whether this climbing rose is suitable for the Moscow region, any professional would answer you in the affirmative;
– Ramblin' Rector– variety with pale green beautiful leaves, the lashes of which reach a length of five meters, small semi double flowers up to forty pieces are collected in large racemose inflorescences of a creamy hue, which fades to white. This rose can be grown as a bush;
– Super Excelsa– up to two meters high and wide, double bright crimson flowers collected in brushes. Flowering is permanent - until the end of summer, but Crimson fades in the sun. The variety is winter-hardy and resistant to powdery mildew.

Varieties of large-flowered climbing roses (climbers and climbings):

– Elf- a relatively new variety, an erect, vigorous bush, reaching a height of two and a half meters and a width of one and a half meters. White and green, densely double flowers with a diameter of up to 14 cm exude a fruity aroma. Blooms until the end of summer. Disease resistant;
– Santana- a bush up to 4 m tall with carved dark green foliage and velvety bright red semi-double flowers with a diameter of 8-10 cm. Repeated flowering. Excellent winter hardiness and disease resistance;
– Polka– a bush of this variety reaches a height of two or more meters, its leaves are shiny, dark green, double apricot-colored flowers, up to 12 cm in diameter. It blooms two or three times during the summer. Resistant to powdery mildew. Requires good shelter for the winter;
– Indigoletta- a vigorous bush up to three meters high, up to one and a half meters in girth, with dark green dense leaves. Unusually beautiful shades of lilac double flowers up to 10 cm in diameter are collected in inflorescences. This variety is characterized by intensive growth, pleasant aroma, repeated flowering during the growing season and relative resistance to disease.

We invite you to get acquainted with another group of climbing roses - these are the so-called Cordes hybrids, which for unknown reasons are not distinguished in separate group, and are included in the group of ramblers:

– Lagoon- a fragrant tall rose, reaching a height of three meters and one meter in girth. Terry dark pink flowers up to 10 cm in diameter are collected in racemes. Blooms twice during the summer. Resistant to blackleg and powdery mildew;
– Golden Gate- a powerful bush with a large number of shoots, reaching a height of three and a half meters. Golden-yellow semi-double flowers up to 10 cm in diameter, emitting a strong fruity aroma, collected in brushes. Blooms twice per season;
– Sympathy- a vigorous, branched bush up to three meters high and up to two meters wide. Luxurious bright red flowers are collected in small inflorescences. It blooms several times throughout the season, but the first bloom is the most abundant. Frost-resistant, intensively growing, disease-resistant variety, not afraid of either rain or wind.

climbing rose one of the most bright jewelry garden, but sometimes it stops pleasing abundant flowering. Why doesn't the climbing rose bloom? Professional flower growers will tell you about the reasons and how to eliminate them.

Climbing roses have excellent decorative properties; I use them in figured design arches, gazebos, fences, garlands, columns, etc. It is a real tragedy for a gardener if a climbing rose does not bloom.

Why don't climbing roses bloom?

1. Unsuitable soil

Climbing roses love loose, fertile soil. If these plants are not flowering, they are likely lacking nutrients. Then they need to be fed. In general, climbing roses are fed according to the following scheme:
In the first year after planting, you can not feed roses at all or feed them with organic matter: mullein infusion (1:10) or chicken manure(1:20) at the rate of 3-5 liters per bush.
In the spring, after removing the cover and pruning, it is recommended to apply ammonium nitrate at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m. After 2 weeks, fertilizing should be repeated.
At the beginning of budding, another feeding is carried out. This time you can use complex fertilizers based on nitrogen (for example, Kemiru Lux (30 g per 1 sq.m)).
Before the first flowering, climbing roses need one more feeding. An infusion of mullein (1:10) and chicken manure (1:20) in an amount of 3-5 liters per bush is suitable for this.
After the first wave of flowering (late July - early August), roses should be fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers(according to instructions), preferably not containing nitrogen.
The last feeding is carried out after the rose has flowered and is aimed at ripening the shoots. To do this, you should use superphosphate (30 g per 1 sq.m.).
It is also worth remembering that before planting the bush, the soil must be loosened to a depth of 70 cm. Unsuitable soil or its poor-quality treatment affect the flowering and number of buds of the plant.

2. Wild growth

Roses often form shoots - these are small branches with leaves and thorns that appear in the root zone. If the shoots that thicken the bush are not removed in a timely manner, the plant will begin to grow wild and stop blooming. Root shoots should be trimmed close to the ground. And it is advisable to do this in a timely manner.

3. Excess nitrogen fertilizers

Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers promotes the growth of lush green mass, which has a detrimental effect on the process of bud formation. It is better to replace nitrogen fertilizers with a mixture of potassium salt and superphosphate.

4. Diseases of climbing roses

Among the large list of rose diseases, powdery mildew and bark cancer most often affect these plants. Preventive measures against powdery mildew is a double spraying of dormant buds and shoots with 1% Bordeaux mixture. But the prevention of bark cancer will be feeding climbing roses with potassium fertilizers (in September, superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 20-30 g each), correct and timely covering of plants for the winter, destruction of affected shoots, ventilation of plants covered for the winter during thaws.

5. Wrong landing site

Sometimes flower growers plant the queen of flowers in an unsuitable place for her, which can lead not only to a lack of flowering, but also to the death of the plant itself. It is important to know that climbing roses do not tolerate drafts and shade very well.

6. Poor preparation for winter

Roses require special shelter for the winter, as they can die not only from low temperatures, but also from dampness during the winter thaw. So don't forget about air gap between the plant and the shelter. From the end of summer, you should stop loosening the soil and frequent watering, eliminate nitrogen fertilizers (leave only potassium fertilizers), cut out all wild growth, weak and damaged shoots.

7. Incorrect pruning

Climbing roses only need to remove old shoots and wild growth. Excessive pruning of young branches is undesirable, as this does not allow the bush to grow normally. Prune roses moderately so that they do not spend a lot of energy recovering from this procedure.

Now that it’s clear why climbing roses don’t bloom, you can fix everything and plant a climbing rose along the column.

How to let a climbing rose climb a column?

If there is not enough space in your garden for lush thickets of climbing roses, but you still want to have a “pink” corner, you can try to cover a column with roses.
They begin to form an adult climbing rose bush around the column after spring pruning.

1. Choose a sturdy support for the rose. It could be as long wooden beam, and a beautiful decorative column. The main condition is strength. After all, you don't want poor quality Has this support broken under the weight of flowering vines?
2. Securely install the column 40 cm from the bush. It is necessary to dig the support deep into the ground and perhaps even concrete the base. In this case, you won’t have to worry that the support will fall under the pressure of the first squally wind and bury all your dreams of a beautiful column covered with roses.
3. Begin to wrap the main strands around the column in a spiral. Again, keep in mind that lush flowering can only be achieved if the shoots are located at an angle of no more than 45 degrees with respect to the support.
4. It is not necessary to grow short side shoots around columnar ones. It will be enough to carefully lift them and tie them to a support with soft tape or place them between the main shoots. This will add dimension to your floral design.
5. Tie the shoots loosely around the column at the very top of the support to prevent the bush from falling apart under the weight of the inflorescences.

Climbing roses are mostly grown in the southern regions, as they love warmth. But selection does not stand still, and many varieties have been developed that have become possible to grow in more northern regions. What varieties, you ask, are popular for garden decoration?

At this time, many species and varieties are known, but the most common are.

Pierre de Ronsard

Remontant variety. Sprawling bush up to 2 m in diameter and 3 m in height. The vines are quite tough, so in some cases it is possible to grow them in standard form.

Pierre de Ronsard

They have small buds with which the bush is abundantly strewn, from cream to soft pink shades, sometimes with an internal color saturation.

Densely double flowers up to 14 cm in circumference. In the conditions of the central part of Russia, the buds do not have time to fully open their buds, but this makes it even more attractive.

Since Pierre has a weak aroma, it is mostly planted next to jasmine bushes. The result is a magnificent floral ensemble that, when combined, gives an amazing scent.

What else is so attractive to gardeners about Pierre de Ronsard?

frost-resistant, can withstand down to -25°C;
increased immunity to powdery mildew;
long and abundant flowering;
minimal care required.

Hendel

Hendel

Remontant variety. Used to decorate gazebos, arches, hedges. Highly decorative. Bush height from 1.5 m to 3.5 m.

After pruning, it becomes lush and spreads its lashes up to 2 m in volume. Frost-resistant. Susceptible to diseases.

Long flowering. The goblet-shaped buds reach up to 8-10 cm in diameter, collected 1-2 on a long peduncle.

Two-tone, original color that attracts attention. In the middle part it is painted in a creamy shade, turning towards the edge into a bright crimson.

Flammentanz

An excellent variety of domestic selection. It can be grown in northern regions, as it is highly frost-resistant.

Not damaged by diseases and pests.

Requires minimal care.

Large, up to 12 cm in circumference, bright red flower buds look stunning on the dark green foliage of the bush. Blooms in early summer. Has a bright, floral aroma.

With good care, the lashes grow up to 5 m.

Polka

Even a beginner can cope with growing this variety. Easy to care for. Frost-resistant. Not susceptible to diseases. It is decorative, which allows it to be used in landscaping.

A bush 1.5-2 m high is strewn with delicate flowers peach color. Abundant, long-lasting flowering allows you to admire it until autumn. Many rose growers like its light, delicate aroma.

Polka

Planting and care

The climbing rose has long been chosen by designers for vertical gardening. After all, it is convenient for decorating gazebos, arches, verandas and various fences. Therefore, before planting it, think about the design of your garden.

Tips on when and where to plant:

Landing in the ground

To plant seedlings in the soil, they need preparation.. To do this, inspect the root system. Remove all damaged, dried and broken roots. Immerse for 20 minutes in a weak solution of manganese to disinfect. It is also necessary to shorten the above-ground part. Cut the shoots into a third with a sharp sector. Make a clay mash, add 1 tablet of heteroauxin per 10 liters. Dip the roots into it.
We plant it in the ground. Dig a hole. It should be larger than the root system of the seedling. Pour a mound into the hole and place a bush on it. Spread the roots around the mound and cover with soil prepared in advance. Mix garden soil thoroughly with humus and sand.
The root collar should be deepened by at least 10 cm. This will protect against freezing and promote the formation of additional roots.
Press the soil around the stem and water it with water.. After a few days, when the soil settles, it needs to be replenished.
The distance between plants required for free growth is at least 1 m and 1-2 m between rows. To decorate the garden with screens, we plant in a checkerboard pattern with a distance of 0.5-1 m.
When planting bushes in spring period cover them with film. The film will create Greenhouse effect and they will get along better. Don't forget to open it slightly for ventilation. First, once a day for 15 minutes. In subsequent days, open for longer periods, thereby preparing the plants for outdoor conditions.
In the first year, roses do not need fertilizer.. They get enough nutrients from the soil.

Caring for climbing roses

Climbing bushes are in most cases undemanding to care for.

What needs to be done to keep the plants healthy and well-groomed?

In the spring, prune, remove and burn plant debris;
carefully dig up the soil around the plants, mulch with peat or humus;
do not allow the soil to dry out;
fertilization;
spray with a 3% solution to protect against diseases;
carry out treatment with pest control drugs;
pruning branches that have bloomed;
at the end of September, hill up the plants, remove the supports, and carefully place the branches on the ground;
shorten all shoots by 30 cm;
when the temperature reaches -5°C, remove all leaves and damaged branches and fasten with twine;
cover for the winter with any material;
Pruning should be done in autumn and spring.

Trimming

After flowering

Why is it needed:

develop and grow better;
more young shoots appear on the branches;
a powerful root system is formed;
nutrients are distributed equally throughout the plant;
for disease prevention;
for more light and air access.

To trim branches correctly and without consequences, you need a tool:

sharp knife or pruning shears;
loppers of different sizes;
gloves for work.

All tools should be kept clean and dry. After any work, they should be washed and disinfected in a solution of manganese and hydrogen peroxide. After that, dry it.

Autumn

Autumn haircuts take place between October and November. Most of the shoots are removed:

removal of old shoots;
broken;
shortening shoots by 1/3 in winter;

Bushes are easier to carry winter frosts without unnecessary mass of branches.

Spring

In spring you should trim:

broken branches;
dry branches;
caught in the frost.

Cold protection

Despite what is written about the frost resistance of a particular variety, roses should be covered for the winter. If there is little snow in winter, they may freeze.

How to cover correctly:

If a climbing rose wraps around an arch, then we cover it on it. For this:

In the spring, when the weather warms up, the cover should be removed gradually, layer by layer. This is done in order to accustom the plant to light. Avoid sunburn on the plant.

Reproduction

Seeds

For seed propagation, it is better to buy material at a garden store.

Collected seeds from your bushes do not have varietal characteristics. But in this way one can deduce new variety. Experiment for your own pleasure.

If all conditions are met, your first buds will appear 2 months after planting. They need to be removed to allow young plants to gain strength before subsequent transplantation into the ground.

With the onset of warmth, plant the seedlings in beds under film.

Cuttings

The most popular way to propagate roses is. In mid-summer, cut shoots from bushes. The segments must have more than 2 internodes.

How to cut cuttings correctly?

Secateurs or sharp knife We make cuts in such a way that the lower one falls under the kidney at an angle of 45°, and the upper one is straight and above the kidney.
Remove the bottom row of leaves from the section. Shorten the top ones.
Fill the pots with soil (a mixture of earth and sand) and stick the cuttings into them. Cover with a transparent glass and place in a bright place.
When the first leaves appear, remove the glasses. IN further care Before planting in open ground, it consists of watering and applying complex fertilizer.

By layering

Vaccination

Not the most popular and labor-intensive method of propagation is grafting onto a rootstock or, in other words, budding:

Advice! Before grafting, rose hips should be watered abundantly. Cut off the above-ground part with a sector, leaving 10-15 cm.

Looking at the splendor of climbing roses, it is impossible to resist planting them in your garden. Moreover, selection offers us a variety of species and varieties that are currently grown in any region of Russia.

The southern beauty climbing rose is heat-loving and capricious. Growing it in temperate latitudes is not an easy task. But few plants can compete with it in the beauty of its flowers and the elegance of its leaves. Gardeners are willing to go to great lengths just to see the waterfalls of magnificent flowers falling from walls, arches and arbors, with which climbing roses delight the eye. Preparing for winter is a responsible undertaking, without which these plants will freeze out at the first serious frost.

Prepare your sleigh in summer

Roses do not enter a state of natural dormancy as a result of long-term selection of varieties. They meet the winter with leaves, which does not add frost resistance to them. They can easily withstand a short-term drop in temperature to -5...-7 o C, but if a thaw occurs in winter, already at zero degrees they begin to grow. Common ones also have this feature, and preparation for winter should begin for them long before its onset.

The right fertilizers

In order for the shoots to ripen well and become strong enough, the plant is fertilized several times a season. The last nitrogen ones should be received no later than July. They cannot be introduced since August to prevent the growth of new foliage. How to fertilize climbing roses from the end of summer? Preparing for winter with the help of microelements involves adding phosphorus and potassium.

Strengthening fertilizers are used from the beginning of August. The first time, a solution is added in which 20 g of superphosphate, 3 g of boric acid and 10 g are added to a bucket of water. Consumption - 10 liters per 4 m2.

The second feeding is done a month later. It can be root or applied leaf by leaf. Add 15 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate to a bucket of water.

For foliar feeding the concentration should be three times lower.

With the arrival of autumn they stop excavation around the bushes: loosening, digging and watering. This is done so as not to awaken the already delicate climbing roses before autumn.

Preparation for winter includes complete removal of leaves before covering. During wintering, they damp out and rot, which can cause the development of diseases.

How to prune a climbing rose

In the vast majority of varieties, flower buds are formed on overwintered shoots of the previous year. If you prune them in the fall, there will be no flowering. However, over the course of a season, the plant produces many powerful shoots up to 2-3 m in length, and placing them under cover is an overwhelming task. So it is necessary to remove some of the lashes in the fall.

The main corrective work is carried out in the spring. In the fall, the vines are cut minimally, since it is not known how much the vines will suffer from frost and damping off during the cold season; this should be done taking into account the characteristics of the variety and the density of the bush.

Too young, weak and immature shoots are cut out. Old branches that are difficult to bend and immature tops are removed. The side shoots extending from the main stems and some conductors are shortened.

If the bush is very thick, you can leave 11-12 promising shoots and cut out the rest. If less than 10 shoots have formed on the plant, they cannot be removed.

Climbing roses include many species, and the degree autumn pruning varies depending on the variety. It is better to leave the lashes in the fall with a reserve in case they rot or freeze in the cold.