Ceiling lining in a warm attic from calibration. Proper installation of the ceiling in a private home is the key to comfort

When building a country estate, its future owners need to decide how to make the ceiling in a private house so that it is both warm and attractive. There are several options for solving the problem, but most often developers choose either cold attic, or a residential attic.

As an example, the article will consider the installation of a ceiling in a private house with gable roof when beams measuring 100x100 millimeters are placed on top of the walls - 200x200 millimeters. Height attic space allows you to use it as an attic, which can be used as a living room or a cold utility room.

It is necessary to do depending on how you plan to use the free space under the roof:

for residential attic room- decent ceiling and sound insulation, warm floor covering;
for a cold room - the most important point is good thermal insulation.

When installing a ceiling in a house, you need to remember that warm air always tends upward and most of it leaves the building through the roof, so this great importance has high-quality insulation of the ceiling surface, you cannot skimp on this.

Ceiling installation when the attic is residential

. The simplest method is considered to be using ordinary boards, preferably tongue and groove. If you take an edged product, its thickness should be 25-30 millimeters. This traditional material has one important advantage, which is that even with a large gap between the beams wooden boards do not sag, for this reason additional lathing is not required.

It should not be forgotten that:

to fasten each board you will need at least 2 nails;
the fasteners are driven “into the spacer” so that the angle relative to the vertical of the edge of the board is 45 degrees. Due to the fact that the nail sews the boards together, it does not allow the seam to come apart when the wood dries.

Step two - insulating the floor . For this:

a vapor barrier layer is laid in the gap between the beams on the rough ceiling. To create it, glassine is used, but polyethylene, the most common film, is also suitable. It is necessary because soundproofing material should not fall into the cracks between the boards and not absorb moisture;
To ensure sound insulation, 100 mm thick mineral wool is used. In practice, a mixture of sawdust and lime or dry sand is also often used as sound insulation on the ceiling. The size of the soundproofing layer should be about ¾ of the height of the beam;
waterproofing the ceiling in a private house in this case not required, but when using mineral wool, its layer will not produce small fibers insulating material get into the air.

Step three - creation flooring .

This stage involves:

laying joists and flooring. It is advisable to use boards 30-40 millimeters thick. They also use OSB or plywood, laying it in one thick layer or two, but with more overlapping seams thin sheet;
then they reinforce the exit point to the attic with timber, the thickness of which should be similar to this parameter for the beams. In the case when the attic is temporarily not used, the exit to it is covered with a shield in order to reduce heat loss.

Ceiling installation when the attic is cold

When the building is one-story, and only the roof is on top, the installation of the ceiling in a private house is carried out as follows.

Step one - filing the ceiling . For this you need a shield made of boards. The material for it is ordinary edged or tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters or more. They are fastened “in space” using long nails, leaving minimal gaps. The tongue and groove boards are hemmed with a groove from the wall, from which the installation of the cold ceiling starts.

When deciding what to make a ceiling from in a private house, you can opt for lining it in another way - plywood or OSB, at least 15 millimeters thick. But it should be taken into account that in terms of one “square” this option is much more expensive and the possibility of the structure sagging under its own weight and the weight of the insulation increases.

Alternatively in private homes old building a board made of boards can be placed not below the beams, but laid on top of them. Thus, the height of the rooms will not be reduced, and the living space will not be reduced. If necessary, you can make a crate. You should not worry about the appearance of the rough ceiling, since finishing the ceiling in a private house will cover the surface, and beams painted in desired color, will decorate the interior of the room.

Step two - vapor barrier of the ceiling . First of all, you should take care of the vapor barrier. On the one hand, this layer should prevent the heat-insulating material from becoming damp, and on the other hand, due to radiation, it should reduce heat loss. This can be achieved using aluminum foil. Also used as a vapor barrier is foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene - this relatively recently appeared vapor barrier material for the ceiling creates an obstacle to heat loss due to both radiation and convection. When a chimney is laid in the ceiling, there must be a distance of at least 30 centimeters between the chimney and combustible material.

Step three - insulation of the floor . The installation of a ceiling in a private house with a cold attic involves the use of insulation materials, the choice of which is huge.

The most popular among them are:

Step four - waterproofing the floor . The waterproofing layer must be laid on top of the insulation (this does not apply only to foam plastic). For waterproofing, a special fabric is used, but if it is not available, a thick polyethylene film will do. The material is laid in strips with an overlap of approximately 10 centimeters, and the seams are taped.

Finishing the ceiling

The installation of the ceiling in a private house, when the attic is not planned to be used, is completed with finishing. Which option is best to use depends on the height of the premises. When finishing the ceiling in country house with a ceiling height of 2.7 meters or more, the ceiling lining can be done along the sheathing on a board made of boards, and if it is located above the beams, then directly on them.

If the ceilings are low, the boards are laid, as previously mentioned, on top of the floor beams, and the finished ceiling is placed between them from below. In this situation, you don’t have to make a sheathing, since it can be successfully attached to the tree. different material and it does not need to be positioned horizontally. Beams are excellent at making minor irregularities invisible.

Ceiling finishing materials

Each owner of his own property, before installing a ceiling in the house, resolves issues related to the choice of finishing materials. When doing the work yourself, a good option is to use drywall or wall panels made of polyvinyl chloride. In both cases, it is advisable to attach the ceiling along the beams to the sheathing installed strictly horizontally, since deviations from the horizontal and other surface defects will be very noticeable. At the same time, plasterboard and panels can be installed between the beams without lathing and careful alignment.

You should not use a wide baguette; for edging PVC products, use a narrow one L-profile. In this case, experts advise fastening the panels perpendicular to the beams, and then waste finishing material there will be less. Exist different types finishing the ceilings in the house, but best choice the panels will become glossy white with hidden seam. When purchasing this finishing material, you should give preference to products with maximum width. When the ceiling is hemmed between the beams, then they are painted in dark colors.

Decorate ceilings decorative beams It is possible not only in private houses, but also in apartments. As additional element When creating an interior, they practice installing lamps. They are stylized as antique and hung directly from ceiling beams, but provided that the height of the room allows this.

It is also used in a country house to whitewash the ceiling using chalk or lime.

Ceiling surfaces are also painted in private households - today the retail chain offers a large number of the most different colors intended for finishing rooms. It is often used in cottages and wallpapering ceilings; glass wallpaper has proven itself well.

So we're building a private house with your own hands. What will the ceiling arrangement be like in a private house of this type? We will look at two main options: with a cold attic and with a residential attic.

Given:

Beams are laid on top of the walls thickness 100x100 - 200x200 millimeters.
On top there is a gable roof. The height allows it to be used both as an attic (including year-round living) and as a cold attic.

Necessary:

In the case of an attic- make the ceiling look decent by providing sound insulation and laying the floor.
In case of a cold attic: The main priority is thermal insulation.

Important: warm air tends to rise. Most of the heat loss in any house occurs through the roof, so it is better to insulate the ceilings in a private house with a cold attic very thoroughly.

Option with attic

Hemming the ceiling

The simplest option for filing a ceiling comes down to using regular board, ideally tongue and groove; however, a regular edged board of thickness will also work 25-30 millimeters.

Great advantage of traditional material— the boards do not sag even with a significant step between the beams, so you can do without additional sheathing.

A few nuances associated with filing a plank ceiling:

Each board is attached to each beam at least two nails.
Nails are driven “into space”, at an angle of 45 degrees to the vertical towards the edges of the board. This way the board holds more securely.

If a nail sews two boards together, as in the picture, it will also prevent the seam between them from coming apart when the wood dries.

Soundproofing the ceiling

In any case, it is laid on the rough ceiling between the beams. vapor barrier layer. This can be glassine or regular plastic film. It is necessary for two reasons: the soundproofing layer should not spill out in the gap between the boards; it should not gain moisture.
Then the actual soundproofing. This could be a layer mineral wool 100 millimeters thick; however, filling with dry sand or a mixture of sawdust and lime is more often practiced. The height of the backfill is approximately three-quarters of the height of the beams.
Top layer waterproofing not required; however, if you use mineral wool, it will prevent small fibers from becoming airborne.
Then along the beams logs are laid and the floor is laid. Best material- board 30 - 40 millimeters thick; You can also use OSB or plywood - in one layer with a thick sheet or, better yet, in two layers with a thinner sheet overlapping the seams.

Important: if the layer soundproofing material is not covered with a vapor barrier on top - do not forget to leave a couple of ventilation holes in the floor. It is better that water spilled on the floor or moisture that otherwise gets under the floor surface evaporates immediately.

Important point: the exit to the attic floor must be reinforced with timber, not inferior in thickness to the beams. If the attic is not currently in use, it makes sense to close the exit to it with a temporary shield to reduce heat loss.

Cold attic

Well, how to make a ceiling in a private house in the case of a one-story building, if there is only a roof on top?

Filing the rough ceiling

And in this case, the construction of the ceiling begins with the filing of a shield made of boards. The material is the same tongue-and-groove or regular edged board with a thickness of 25 millimeters or more. The boards are fastened with long nails into spacers with minimal gaps.

It is possible to use plywood or OSB with a thickness of 15 millimeters or more for lining the ceiling.

However this option:

Noticeably more expensive in terms of square meter ceiling;
To a greater extent threatens to sag the ceiling under its own weight and the weight of the insulation. The use of intermediate lathing will reduce the strength of the ceiling. Do not forget that the weight of insulation (especially bulk insulation) can be quite significant.

Alternative option

The ceiling height in a private house, especially an old one, can be low. In this case, hemming the rough ceiling from below the beams will be wasteful in relation to your living space. Great solution- do not fasten the shield from the boards from below, but lay it on top, along the beams.

Here, if necessary, it is possible to use battens. Don't worry about appearance ceiling: the finishing surface will hide the sheathing; beams painted in a contrasting color to the main surface of the ceiling will decorate the design of the room.

Vapor barrier

The requirements for the properties of the vapor barrier layer in the case of a cold attic are somewhat different from the first option we considered. On the one hand, it must fulfill its main function: to prevent dampness heat-insulating material. On the other hand, it would be nice if it also reduces heat loss due to radiation.

How to achieve this?

Above or below the insulation layer lay a layer of ordinary aluminum foil. It will not reflect visible light, but infrared radiation, so its location is unimportant.
It can also be used instead of conventional vapor barrier foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene. It will create an additional barrier to heat loss due to both radiation and convection.

Important: in the case where a chimney passes through the ceiling, do not forget about cutting chimney. There should be at least 25-30 centimeters between it and the flammable material.

Insulation

The list of insulating materials that are used to insulate floors in private homes is quite long. Let's consider popular insulation materials with their advantages and disadvantages.

Mineral wool

The material is non-flammable. Fire safety will not be affected when using it.
The thermal insulation qualities of mineral wool are beyond praise, however, they get worse over time. Even perfectly dry mineral wool cakes over time. If there are flaws in the vapor barrier, it gains moisture and completely ceases to prevent heat loss.
Small mineral wool fibers are volatile and irritate the respiratory system. It is necessary to isolate this insulation from the living space especially carefully. At the same time, in other respects the material is impeccable in terms of ecology.
The price is very affordable. Here we have one of the cheapest insulation materials.
Mineral wool requires careful installation. It is strictly forbidden to press it: the greater its density, the less heat it will retain.

When laying mineral wool, it should never be compacted. More volume means better thermal insulation.

Basalt wool

What we have before us is, in essence, a type of mineral wool. But there is a difference: basalt wool holds its shape much better and is almost not prone to caking. However, it also gains moisture.

Expanded clay

And everything is fine here fire safety: the material is non-flammable basically.
Expanded clay - coarse-grain insulation. Heat transfer in its layer due to convection is quite possible. That is why it is usually poured in a layer of at least 15 centimeters; better - 30.
Compared to other insulation materials, he has a big specific gravity . If the ceiling is hemmed to the beams from below, under heavy load the boards may tear away from the beams. The consequences for the home will be the most unpleasant.
Filling with expanded clay, perhaps cheaper everyone alternative options insulation, despite the large thickness of the layer.

Bulk insulation with expanded clay is a very inexpensive solution. But in terms of the totality of qualities, it is not the best.

Styrofoam

Unlike all the alternatives, polystyrene foam flammable
About allocating them styrene disputes in residential premises are still ongoing. Theoretically, foam plastic intended for insulation must comply with all environmental standards; Practically, it all depends on the manufacturer.
The material is impeccable in terms of thermal insulation properties- 98 percent of its volume is occupied by air in closed cells: There is almost no heat loss due to convection inside the foam layer.
The shape and size do not change over time. Sheets of foam plastic will still occupy the entire volume between the beams in ten years, as it did at the time of their installation.
This property is somewhat beyond the scope of our article; however polystyrene foam is popular as a material for insulating attics because it is easy to space it between the beams.

In this case, it is quite difficult to securely fix the mineral wool so that it does not slide down when the house sways and shrinks.

Finally, polystyrene foam can practically be considered non-hygroscopic and moisture-proof. Its use in theory makes it possible to do without vapor barrier at all.
The cost of thermal insulation with its help, however, big enough.

Waterproofing

On top of all materials except polystyrene foam is required. waterproofing layer. It can be either a special fabric or ordinary thick polyethylene film. The canvas is laid with overlapping strips of about 10 centimeters; The seams are taped.

Important: just in case, let us remind you that stepping on any soft insulation it is forbidden. This action is equivalent to removing most of the insulating material from the area where you step.

Building a roof is a labor-intensive, lengthy process that is not completed after installation. roofing material, but is just entering its finishing phase. After the completion of the main work, finishing work follows, bringing the appearance of the house to ideal condition, these include finishing the cornices and filing the overhangs.

Previously, these operations were carried out using clapboard, siding or cutting boards, materials not intended for this, which complicated the task for builders. However, since roof soffits appeared in stores, it has become possible to hem overhangs efficiently and quickly.

Advantages of spotlights

Before the advent of soffit panels, overhangs were hemmed using other non-specialized materials; usually, everything that was left over from construction was used: cutting boards, lining or siding. However, finishing with soffits has huge advantages:

Previously, craftsmen who understood the need for perforation in the overhang lining material tried to do it with their own hands by drilling holes in the siding panels, however, such finishing looked sloppy and “artisanal”.

The need for perforation in finishing overhangs

An overhang is a section of the roof slope that protrudes 50-80 cm beyond the perimeter of the structure; it serves to protect the surface of the walls from moisture. The outer part of the overhang is covered with roofing material, protecting it from getting wet, and the lower part, without lining the soffits, remains vulnerable. However, it is impossible to seal the overhang tightly, as this will violate natural circulation air flows inside the roof space. This is especially true for thermally insulated heated attics, in which it is not possible to install dormer windows.

Air circulation in the attic occurs according to the laws of convection, that is, warmer air rises to the top, freeing up space for cold air. Without normal ventilation in the thickness roofing pie condensation accumulates, leading to rotting, mold and destruction rafter system. To avoid such problems, the overhang is hemmed using perforated soffits, through which fresh air penetrates into the attic. atmospheric air, and aerators are installed on the roof.

Soffit perforation

Roof soffits consist of panels of varying degrees of perforation with a lock used for fastening. The standard length of such products is about 3 m, and the width varies depending on the manufacturer within 20-30 cm. The following types of soffit models are produced:

To choose the right soffits, you need to consult an experienced roofer, so only professional master can calculate the correct degree of panel perforation to suit a specific ventilation system, which will provide air flow through the overhang into the attic or attic.

Materials

The plastic type of soffit is a panel made of polyvinyl chloride, equipped with a lock and perforation. This is the most cheap material, which can be found to hem an overhang. Variously colored models are matched to the color of the facades or roofing material. In order not to disturb the integrity of the appearance, siding of the same shade for finishing the pediment is purchased along with the soffits for lining the overhang and cornice. The most popular is the cinnamon-colored plastic soffit, which harmoniously combines with the dark shades traditional in Russia.

The panels are made of steel, aluminum and copper. However, a common problem with more affordable steel and aluminum panels is that they are susceptible to corrosion to varying degrees. If galvanized steel enters into oxidative reactions only when damaged outer covering, then it is possible to protect aluminum from water only with the help of a special composition. Oxidized copper soffits do not have problems with corrosion, however, not everyone can afford the installation of such expensive fittings.

Installation methods

Sheathing of overhangs begins after the completion of the main roof installation work, when the slopes and walls of the attic have already been insulated. It is more convenient to install the soffits before so that nothing interferes. There is nothing complicated in this process, so you can slowly get to work with your own hands. Hemming of overhangs is carried out in two different ways:

Filing is a painstaking process, the main thing in which is accuracy and precision of measurements. High-quality soffits will protect the overhang from moisture, mold, insects and birds, without restricting access fresh air into the under-roof room.

Video instruction

Are you insulating your house for winter but don’t know how to insulate it? attic floor on wooden load-bearing beams? Having gained experience in this matter, I will definitely convey technical points thermal insulation, and I will also describe step by step the procedure for carrying out the work.

Why insulate an attic?

We must not forget that a significant part of heat loss occurs through the roof. Therefore, when constructing buildings with cold attics, it is very important to pay attention to proper thermal insulation ceiling, between the heated room and the attic.

Below I will try to explain in an accessible language how attic insulation affects the internal microclimate and overall heat loss in the house:

Purpose of the attic. Any unused attic under a sloped roof is essentially a buffer technical floor between the street and residential premises. Its purpose is to smooth out significant changes in air temperature inside the house and outside;
Temperature conditions. At any time of the year, during the day the air temperature inside the attic will be several degrees higher than outside. Thus, in winter there will almost always be negative temperatures, and on sunny summer days there will be intense heat;
Heat losses in winter. When the temperature of any substance increases, its density always decreases. Therefore, in heated rooms, heated air from household heating devices, always rises up to the ceiling. If the ceiling has insufficient thermal insulation, then during the cold season, all the heat from the room will go outside through the attic;

Excess heat in summer. On hot summer days this process will occur in reverse. The air in the attic will become very hot from the hot roof in the sun, and then transfer its heat through the uninsulated ceiling into the apartment.
Reverse air circulation. After touching an uninsulated ceiling, the heated air quickly cools down, and due to the increase in density, it sharply sinks down. Indoors, this leads to excessive reverse air circulation and the constant formation of drafts, which have an adverse effect on the health of residents;
High humidity. When heated, humid air comes into contact with a cold, uninsulated ceiling, small drops of condensation may form under the ceiling. This will lead to an increase in air humidity in the house, and will also contribute to the appearance and development of mold on the walls and ceiling;

Economic factor. Confirmed heat loss through an uninsulated roof is at least 20-30%. This means that proper insulation of attic floors using wooden beams will save up to 30% of fuel during each heating season. Air conditioning in summer will also require lower costs;
Damage from a “warm” attic. Among other things, penetration warm air to an uninhabited attic, from time to time, can lead to unpleasant consequences:

As warm and cold air mixes, condensation will begin to form in the attic. Drops of water will settle on all surfaces, which will lead to rotting and destruction of the wooden supporting structures of the roof;
From the warmth of the attic, the snow masses on the roof slopes will gradually begin to melt. Thawed water will freeze as it flows down. This can lead to the formation of large icicles along the edges of the roof, as well as freezing of rain gutters and downspouts.

All the factors described are characteristic not only of residential buildings. They should be taken into account when designing and constructing any outbuildings on the site where the heating system will be used (for example, a garage, bathhouse, barn, etc.).

Stage 1: Selecting insulation

When choosing materials for ceiling insulation, you should be guided by several criteria. In addition to low thermal conductivity, attic insulation must have the following qualities:

Moisture resistance and mechanical strength. The material should not be deformed or destroyed under the influence of mechanical load, and should not change its properties in the event of direct contact with water;
Heat resistance. The insulation must be absolutely non-flammable and should not be destroyed under the influence of high or low temperatures;

Light weight. In order not to create additional load on the load-bearing structures of the building, the thermal insulation of the attic floor should be quite light, so you need to choose insulation with a low specific gravity;
Vapor permeability. To ensure normal temperature and humidity conditions in residential premises, all finishing and building materials must freely allow air and water vapor to pass through;
Environmental Safety. Insulation for residential buildings must be hypoallergenic and chemically neutral. It should not contain harmful volatile compounds or toxic substances;
Lack of organic matter. I recommend using exclusively materials based on mineral or polymer based. They do not contain organic substances, therefore they are not susceptible to mold, and are not suitable for food for small rodents and pests.

Taking into account all these factors, several types can be used to insulate attic floors thermal insulation materials:

Mineral wool. Produced in the form of rolls or rigid mats, from intertwined frozen fibers of molten sedimentary rocks. For mineral basalt wool characterized by all the above qualities, so it can be considered the most suitable material. Below I will give some recommendations for its use:

Basalt wool itself is very soft. To prevent it from being pressed or dented while walking, plank flooring should be laid on top of it in the attic;
When choosing insulation, I advise you to give preference to rigid slabs that are covered on one side with aluminum foil;
They need to be mounted with aluminum foil inside the room. It simultaneously reflects heat and acts as a vapor barrier layer.

Glass wool. It has a similar manufacturing technology, only molten glass is used as the raw material for its production. I do not recommend using this material for insulating residential buildings for the following reasons:

Glass fibers are more fragile, so they can break under load;
The price of glass wool is much lower, but after creasing or getting wet, it partially loses its heat-insulating properties;
Small particles of glass penetrate deeply into a person's skin and cause severe irritation.

Expanded clay. This bulk insulation It is produced in the form of small round pellets of light brown or red color. Expanded clay balls are formed as a result of sintering special varieties of red clay under conditions high temperature.

Expanded clay has the following characteristic qualities:

The internal structure of the material has many closed pores, so it has low thermal conductivity;
Each pellet is covered on the outside with a dense glassy layer of baked clay, so moisture practically does not penetrate inside it;
Small crumbly expanded clay pellets freely fill the entire volume, so they are convenient to use for insulating hidden cavities and hard to reach places in building structures;
Thanks to its mineral base, this material does not burn at all, does not emit harmful substances, is not susceptible to mold, and is not suitable for rodent food.

Styrofoam. This polymer thermal insulation material is made by hot molding from small round granules of polystyrene foam. It is usually produced in sheets measuring 1000x1000 mm, which can be from 10 to 150 mm thick. The following features are characteristic of polystyrene foam:

Of all existing species insulation, it has the lowest thermal conductivity;
The foam contains no organic substances, so it is absolutely not afraid of water, does not rot and does not contribute to the formation of mold;
By itself, polystyrene foam does not burn and does not support combustion, however, when exposed to high temperatures, it can emit toxic gases and acrid thick smoke;
Due to the polymer base and closed porous structure, foam sheets do not allow air and water vapor to pass through. For this reason, it is not very good to use for insulation. living rooms and rooms with high air humidity.

Extruded polystyrene foam Abbreviated as EPPS. It has the same composition as polystyrene foam, but is made by hot extrusion from a molten mass of polystyrene foam. Specifications These two materials are also very similar, however, EPS still has some differences:

Expanded polystyrene has a porous, uniform structure and a higher specific density;
Due to this, it has higher thermal conductivity, but at the same time is more durable, and therefore is able to bear higher weight loads;
For this reason, I recommend using it for insulation of exploited unheated attics which will be used to store seasonal items or household equipment.

Foil polyethylene foam. It is also called “Penofol” in another way. This roll material consists of thick polyethylene foam film, which is covered on one or both sides. thin layer aluminum foil. I recommend using it in combination with other types of insulation, because by itself it has specific properties:

The porous structure of polyethylene foam provides a low heat transfer coefficient, so it functions as an additional insulation;
Polyethylene film does not allow air, drops of moisture and water vapor to pass through at all, so Penofol can be used as waterproofing;
Mirror aluminum foil reflects infrared heat waves well. In other words, it does not allow radiant heat to pass through itself, and returns it back to the room.

Wood sawdust. This one is cheap and available material, is still often used to insulate ceilings in bathhouses, heated barns or small country houses. It is applied to wooden floor from the attic side, in the form of a homogeneous thick mixture of sawdust with liquid clay mortar. Despite the seeming primitiveness of this method, it has its advantages and disadvantages:

Sawdust or small shavings can be bought inexpensively, or even taken for free, at almost any large sawmill;
There can be no problems with clay either, so such insulation is easy to prepare with your own hands in the required quantity at any time;
The mixture of sawdust and clay has a low specific gravity, and after hardening it becomes quite hard. Therefore, it does not place significant stress on load-bearing beams, and allows you to walk freely on it with your feet;
Due to the mineral components, such a coating is permeable to air and steam, however, due to sawdust, mold may form on it, or mice may chew on it.

All mineral-based thermal insulation materials, to one degree or another, are capable of allowing water vapor and air to pass through. To protect such insulation from the formation of condensation or moisture penetration from the outside, they must be installed using a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane.

Stage 2: Preparation of materials and tools

In addition to insulation, for the work you will need lumber, waterproofing, as well as the usual set of carpentry and carpentry tools:

Two hammers: one medium, weighing 200-300 grams, and one heavy, weighing 800-1200 grams;
Longitudinal and transverse hacksaw for wood. Instead of a cross saw, it is more convenient to use an electric cutting machine;
A carpenter's plane, a large wooden mallet and a set of chisels;
Of the electrical tools you need to have a regular household drill, and it is desirable to have cordless screwdriver with a set of replaceable nozzles;

For fastening roll materials(waterproofing, vapor barrier), I recommend using construction or furniture stapler with a set of metal brackets;
You will also need a straight metal ruler, a tape measure 3-5 meters long, building level and a simple rope plumb line;
To work near the ceiling, it is most convenient to use a folding stepladder. If it is not there, you can adapt a high strong table or homemade goats from scraps of boards;
Lumber will be needed wooden blocks section 62x62 mm, and planed edged boards thickness 25-30 mm;

As a waterproofing layer, you can use a film of foamed polyethylene and a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane;
To seal the joints of the panels you will need a metallized aluminum tape, which is commonly used in ventilation systems;
Each homeowner chooses materials for finishing the ceiling at his own discretion. This could be lining board, drywall, laminated OSB or plywood, or other finishing materials;

If you plan to use mineral or glass wool for insulation, then I recommend purchasing a special protective suit that is designed to work with these materials. Otherwise, severe irritation may occur on exposed areas of the skin from small glass fibers.

Stage 3: Filing the rough ceiling

During construction attic floor or construction sloping roof, you can do without expensive and heavy concrete slabs ceilings Instead, the entire load from the roof is carried by wooden load-bearing beams made of logs or timber, with a cross-section of at least 120x120 mm. They are usually laid on top of two main exterior walls, perpendicular to the long side of the house.

Such beams serve load-bearing structure for the ceiling of the top floor, and for the floor of the attic. The same beams will be used for installing insulation between residential building and the attic. This type of ceiling is called hemmed, because both the rough and the finished ceiling are hemmed from below to the load-bearing beams.

Before insulating the attic floor, you need to mount the rough ceiling:

Illustration	Description of work
	Installation of a rough ceiling. To hem the rough ceiling, you should use dry edged boards 25 mm thick, or plywood sheets 10 mm thick or more.
	Hemming boards. They must be secured to the lower plane of the supporting beams and beams around the perimeter of the room. Hemming boards must be fastened without gaps or cracks, close to each other. For fastening, use galvanized self-tapping screws 5-6 mm.
	Waterproofing. When the entire rough ceiling is hemmed to the load-bearing beams, panels of foiled polyethylene foam need to be secured to it from below. This can be done using a stapler. "Penofol" will perform the functions of heat and waterproofing. It should always be placed with a foil layer towards the warm room.
	Sealing joints. To prevent moist air from the room from entering the insulation, the ends of the polyethylene film must be wrapped on the walls by 150-200 mm. The joints between the panels must be glued with metallized tape on an aluminum base.
	Attaching the sheathing. From below, across the entire area of the rough ceiling, nail a counter batten made of wooden slats thickness 15-22 mm. It is needed to provide ventilation air gap between Penofol and the finished ceiling. The distance between the slats should be about 400-600 mm. In the future, a finishing ceiling covering will be attached to them from below.

Before starting work, everything wooden elements structures must be treated with antiseptic and fire-retardant impregnations. Antiseptics are needed to protect wood from rotting and mold development. Fire retardants give dry wood fire retardant properties.

Stage 4: Installation of thermal insulation

After filing the rough ceiling, the transverse load-bearing beams will be on the side of the attic. Insulation will be laid in between them.

Depending on the thermal insulation materials used, further technology installation may have some differences. Therefore, below I will briefly discuss the use of the most common types of insulation.

Laying mineral wool. Mineral insulation materials, when wet, partially lose their properties. To prevent condensation from forming in the mineral wool, the entire thermal insulation layer of the cold attic floor must be permeable to air and water vapor:

Illustration

Description of work

Vapor barrier. First, you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane on top of the rough ceiling.

Its peculiarity is that it freely allows water vapor molecules to pass through, but does not allow bound liquid water molecules to pass through.

The membrane panels must overlap each other by at least 150 mm;

Installation of insulation. In between wooden beams lay sheets or rolls of mineral wool. If it is very soft, then it does not need to be squeezed or squeezed much.

Lay another layer of vapor-permeable membrane on top of the mineral wool.

To prevent it from moving over time, it must be stapled to the beams and walls, throughout the entire area and along the perimeter of the attic.

Installation of foam plastic. Polymer-based insulation does not have breathable properties, so it does not allow air and moisture to pass through. There is no point in using a waterproof membrane in this case:

Illustration

Description of work

Laying foam. Panels of foam or extruded polystyrene foam can be laid between cross beams, right on top of the rough ceiling boards.

I advise laying them in two layers, so that the joints of the sheets are located in different places and do not intersect with each other.

Polyurethane foam. To prevent the insulation sheets from moving to the sides, they can be glued to the sub-ceiling using a special glue for polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam.

Thus, it is necessary to fill the entire area of the attic floor with insulation.

If there are gaps and cracks between the sheets of foam plastic, then they must also be blown out from a balloon with polyurethane foam.

Clay with wood shavings. Insulating the attic floor with a sawdust-clay mixture does not require any additional materials, and is also quite simple:

Illustration

Description of work

Preparation of the solution. To make the sawdust-clay solution plastic, the clay must be soaked in water 2-3 days before starting work.

To prepare the solution, you need to take 3-4 volume parts of sawdust, and 1-2 parts of dry red clay without large solid particles and foreign impurities.

Mix the soaked clay with water until a liquid, flowing solution is obtained;

Add sawdust to the resulting mixture and mix thoroughly until smooth.

To protect against mold formation, in ready solution you can add a small amount of copper sulfate.

Laying sawdust-clay mixture. Lightly moisten the supporting beams and boards of the rough ceiling with liquid clay milk.

After this, fill all the gaps between the beams with sawdust-clay mortar and leave for several days until completely dry.

Expanded clay backfill. I want to say right away that expanded clay does not have very good heat-insulating properties, so individual construction, such floor insulation is rarely used. At the same time, it is considered inexpensive, unpretentious and the easiest to install:

Illustration	Description of work
	Preparatory work. Expanded clay pellets do not absorb moisture, and therefore are not afraid of water ingress or condensation. Therefore, they can be used both with and without a waterproof membrane. To prevent condensation from seeping through the ceiling into the house, I still recommend laying a waterproofing membrane under the pellets;
	Filling of pellets. Expanded clay pellets should be poured on top of the rough ceiling boards and evenly distributed in a thick layer over the entire area of the attic. No covering material is required on top of expanded clay.

To prevent expanded clay pellets from bunching up and spreading throughout the attic, a retaining plastic geogrid is used. It needs to be stretched in the spaces between the load-bearing beams, and then expanded clay should be poured into its cells.

Stage 5: Arrangement of the floor in the attic

Many residents use the cold attic in their private home as a storage room for storing long items, seasonal items and all sorts of things. unnecessary trash. In order for a person to safely walk on the insulated floor, the attic must be equipped with a durable subfloor.

The choice of material for installing the floor in the attic will depend on the type of insulation used:

Illustration	Features of application
	Mineral wool and polystyrene foam. These materials themselves are very soft. To prevent them from being destroyed or wrinkled while walking, the top floor covering must be sufficiently rigid. In such cases, OSB or plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 18 mm should be laid on the load-bearing beams. You can also use unplaned edged boards with a thickness of 25 or 30 mm.
	Extruded polystyrene. Has more high rigidity, so it can withstand significant loads. To prevent it from being pressed when walking, it is enough to put a light flooring of thin boards or plywood 5-9 mm thick on top of it.
	Under the weight of a person, they will crawl in different directions. To prevent this from happening, you need to lay 10 mm thick plywood sheets or light wooden ladders made of boards on top of the beam floor.
	Sawdust-clay insulation. After the solution hardens, it becomes hard like cement. A person can move freely on its surface, even without installing additional flooring.

When installing rough flooring in the attic, you should always leave gaps 15-20 mm wide between boards or sheets of plywood. This is done so that moisture and condensation can freely evaporate from the insulation.

Conclusion

Using this operating algorithm, you can easily insulate the attic floor in your own home. More visual information on each method of insulation can be viewed in the attached video in this article, and I suggest leaving all your comments and questions in the comment form.

Let's consider the issue of finishing the attic. During installation, you can use materials such as drywall, lining, siding. So let's look at a couple of aspects in this article.

To plaster the ceiling, it is first lined with planks (thin boards made of wood of various species).

For these purposes, low-grade materials are usually used. unedged boards, which are nailed with nails so that the distance between them is no more than 10 centimeters.
If the width of the nailed board is more than 12 centimeters, then it is wedged. This is done so that when plaster is applied to them, the boards do not warp from moisture.

Attic finishing

If you decide to simply hem the attic ceiling and for these purposes you choose good wood, then its filing must be done according to the following scheme.

First, you need to bring the boards into the attic, having first trimmed them.
Secondly, install the scaffolding and lay the boards on them.
Thirdly, hang slats from the ceiling beams and lay the boards on them.
Fourth, sew the boards to the slats using nails.

It must be remembered that the nails are driven in at an angle to the beam and always in the places where the support bars are located.

It's a big mistake if the slats are attached to the ceiling itself. This is absolutely impossible to do. Typically, slats are attached to beams, which are pre-attached to support beams or to floor slabs. The distance between the bars is sixty centimeters.

Attic interior decoration

The fastest way to finish an attic is to fasten it with nails. For these purposes, a punch is used, which is necessary for the final blow to the nail head. To prevent the hammer from damaging the board with the last blow, the punch is placed on the head of the nail and hammered into the board. The recess from the nail head is sealed with mastic or other means.
The second method of fastening is the so-called hidden fastening. The boards are fastened with thin nails at an angle of 45 degrees at the tongue and groove joints. When installing the next board, the fastening point is covered and the nail is not visible. Nails must be driven in carefully so as not to damage the wood.

After completing all the operations on covering the ceiling, it can be painted in any color you like, stained or varnished. The room for imagination and design is huge. Go for it.

Headlining

Today modern market building materials offers a new type of ceiling cladding - mineral corrugated slabs. Their popularity and great demand became possible due to their high functional qualities and low price. The functional characteristics of the plates include the following qualities.

First, speed and ease of installation.
Secondly, the possibility of installing a multi-level or sloping ceiling.
Third, the light weight of the mineral corrugated slab, one square meter of the slab weighs 2.5 kilograms.
Fourth, the slabs are characterized as an environmentally friendly material.
Fifth, when installing these slabs, all fire safety requirements are met.
Sixth, there is free space between the ceiling and the ceiling, which creates air cushion, making the ceiling thermally insulated.

Today, manufacturers of mineral corrugated boards offer sound-absorbing panels.

Plasterboard ceiling cladding

Covering plasterboard ceilings is well known and quite popular. And here slatted ceilings made of aluminum appeared recently. Although wood, fiberboard, chipboard, and plastic have been used for a long time in finishing works. Recommended in small rooms such as kitchen, bathroom, corridor use plastic materials.
The new kind cladding - polystyrene tiles. They adhere to the surface and withstand moisture well.

Stretch ceilings are good for use in interior decoration, but high price does not make them very popular.