Show how to build a bathhouse. Stages of bathhouse construction: from foundation to interior decoration

Washing in a country bathhouse is a pleasure available to everyone. Its construction does not require large financial investments. In a minimal plan, such a structure is erected in a few days.

In this article we will look at the topic of how to build the simplest bathhouse in your country house quickly and inexpensively.

Let's start by studying ready-made options, we will discuss the designs of walls, floors, stoves and sewers that are popular among craftsmen.

Design Features

The main conditions for the comfort of any bath are:

• Walls, floor and ceiling well protected from heat loss.
• Reliable insulation of structures from water and steam.
• Compact, quick heating oven.
• Effective sewerage and ventilation.

Examples of country baths

In photo No. 1 we see a simple bathhouse, reminiscent of Diogenes’ barrel. You can only take a steam bath in it. You won't be able to wash yourself here because there is no sewage system in the building. However, if desired, it is not difficult to do. To do this, you need to install a standard shower tray in the corner of the bathhouse and lead the drain pipe into the septic tank.

Photo No. 1 Build such a “barrel sauna” at your dacha and steam to your heart’s content

An important advantage of this design is its low weight, allowing it to be placed on a plank terrace.

The device itself the simplest bath from the container category is shown in photo No. 2.

Photo No. 2 Option for a container country bath

It consists of one steam room. For washing, the owner needs to attach a canopy with a summer shower or add a sewerage system to the room, and the stove - a tank for heating water.

Improvising on the theme of a barrel-shaped bath, let's turn our attention to cellular polycarbonate. It can be quickly and easily assembled original design. In order for it to retain heat well, you will need two large sheets of this material and a frame made of metal or wooden blocks. A mineral wool insulation 10 cm thick is laid between them.

The ends of the building can be made from boards, stuffed onto an insulated wooden frame. Place such a bathhouse anywhere: at your dacha, on a polar ice floe or on the top of Everest and you will always be comfortable in its steam room (photo No. 5).

Photo No. 5 Simple barrel-shaped bathhouse

A small Russian bathhouse, made from scraps of timber, can be installed on oak posts. We see an example of such a structure in photograph No. 6.

Photo No. 6 Oak posts are an excellent support for a small wooden bathhouse

Larger structures require their own foundation. There are three possible options here:

1. Rubble concrete tape.
2. Brick columns.
3. Piles made of asbestos cement pipes.

Do not forget that the type of foundation affects the choice of material and wall design. Pile and columnar foundations are used to install a wooden frame, as well as for bathhouses made of timber or logs (photos No. 7 and No. 8).

Photo No. 7 Bathhouse made of SIP panels on screw piles

Photo #8 Brick pillars– the best option for timber, log and frame structure

The “tape” of rubble concrete is suitable for any walls (made of gas silicate blocks, logs and frames).

A cheap, reliable and simple version of a bathhouse is obtained using technology. For such a structure you will need little: a truck of firewood, a cart of straw and a dump truck of clay (photo No. 10).

The best shape for a wood burning structure is round. It eliminates the need to reinforce masonry corners and looks aesthetically pleasing and original.

By borrowing from birds the technology of building nests from branches and clay, you can build such a simple and warm bathhouse (photo No. 11).

Photo No. 11 Wicker frame coated with clay - “know-how” of an inexpensive bathhouse design

Recommendations for choosing finishing, insulation, sewerage installation, flooring, roofing and stove

For the exterior finishing of a frame bath, we can recommend the following materials:

• Wooden blockhouse.
• Metal tiles or corrugated sheets.
• Plastic siding.
• Cement particle board (CSB).
• OSB board.
• Flat slate.

Photo No. 12 A simple, but at the same time very nice option for exterior finishing of a bathhouse using unedged boards

It is best to use ecowool as insulation. It does not accumulate moisture, does not rot and does not burn. If ecowool is not available in your region, then you can buy ordinary mineral insulation in the form of a semi-rigid slab. It is easily and simply placed in the spaces between the frame posts.

To protect mineral wool from water vapor and reduce heat loss, the walls are lined with sheets of foil polyethylene. After that, a frame of slats is attached to them and trimmed with wood: alder, linden or pine clapboard (photo No. 13).

Photo No. 13 Steam and heat insulation of the walls of a country bathhouse built from any material

We do not recommend installing OSB board indoors. This material releases toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures.

Options for steam and thermal insulation of walls of a frame structure, as well as a bathhouse built from blocks or logs, are presented in Figure No. 1.

Building a simple bathhouse with your own hands includes sewerage. It can be made from standard plastic pipes discharged into a cesspool or drainage well.

The water intake funnel is placed in the center or in the corner of the room, and the floor is made in the form of expanded clay concrete screed with a slope towards the drain. Before concreting, you need to compact the soil and cover it with several layers of waterproofing. Wooden floor – great option, but in the bathhouse it quickly rots and requires replacement. Instead, we recommend making gratings from wooden slats and laying them on a concrete screed. After washing, they can be removed, taken outside and dried.

The design of the bath ceiling is standard. First they “shoot” at the rafters vapor barrier film and fill the counter-battens (3x4 cm). A clapboard cladding is attached to them. The gaps between the rafters are filled with insulation and covered with under-roofing film. It protects it from weathering and atmospheric moisture (Fig. No. 2).

Fig No. 2 Ceiling structure of a country bathhouse

A counter-lattice is stuffed onto the film, creating a ventilated gap between the roof and the insulation. The work on installing the ceiling and roof is completed by installing the main sheathing and laying the roofing material (slate or metal tiles).

The main “detail” of any country bathhouse is the stove. It should provide rapid heating of the air and maintain a high temperature. A metal stove heats up the fastest.

To accumulate heat and create steam, it must be equipped with a compartment for stones. There are many options for stoves for simple baths, so we will not dwell on them in detail. Let's just say that the easiest way to make a heat generator is from a steel pipe large diameter, an old gas cylinder or barrel (photo No. 15). Another easy-to-use material is steel sheet 3-5 mm thick (photo No. 16).

Photo No. 15-16 A simple stove made of a pipe and a stove made of ferrous metal

Knowing the simplest welding techniques, you can assemble such a structure without outside help.

In the steam room of a Russian bath, unlike a sauna, the humidity is slightly higher. Less of a shock to the body is temperature regime: You can stay in such a room for a longer period of time and thoroughly “steam the bones.” That's why most Russians choose a Russian bathhouse.
When hiring a construction team, the cost of construction will double, so if you have at least basic skills, it is better to start building a bathhouse with your own hands. First of all, you need to decide on the building plan. You can create your own or use ready-made drawings and choose the design that best suits the size.

Bathhouse projects

Registration of a building

No permit is required for the construction of auxiliary premises on private land. However, after completion of construction, the building must be registered with the BTI.

To avoid conflict with neighbors in the area and regulatory organizations, drainage rules should be strictly observed. The bathhouse is considered a sanitary structure and must be located at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the edge of the neighboring site. If there is no separate drain for water, this distance increases to 3.5 m.

The distance between buildings, including neighboring ones, is also regulated. The materials from which the structure is constructed are also taken into account. So, if you can leave a distance of 6 m between brick buildings, then between wooden ones - at least 15 m. If the building is being erected in a country house, then the distance to the forest is also regulated - from 15 m.

Regulated distance between buildings

Calculation of the quantity of materials

Most often, bathhouses are built from solid or rounded logs coniferous species, thick-walled timber, wood concrete or brick. Last years Foam concrete was also used for construction. However, wood is considered the best material for it. Even in the hottest bathhouse, this is environmentally friendly pure material you will breathe easily and freely.

You will also need crushed stone, sand, cement, and reinforcement for the construction of the foundation; lumber for flooring and ceilings, doors and windows, insulation, roofing materials, brick or metal for the stove, etc. Since most wholesale companies provide significant discounts, it is advisable to purchase all materials in one place. The cost of supplying electricity must also be included in the estimate.

Wooden profiled timber is more expensive solid log. You can save a little if you use rounded logs rather than timber. It is much easier to construct a building from such materials: you don’t have to “finish the wood” yourself. If desired, you can purchase already finished log house, disassemble, transfer to your own territory and assemble according to the numbering of the logs.

To retain heat in the building, it is advisable to use thick-walled timber with a thickness of 150 mm or more. Working with untreated logs is much more difficult and requires certain skills. In addition, the timber gives less shrinkage.

Rounded logs, regular and profiled timber

Construction of a bathhouse from chopped, rounded logs and timber

To find out the required quantity cubic meters, you need to multiply the length of each wall by the height and thickness of the building, and then calculate the sum of the volume of all walls; The thickness of the material can be obtained from the supplier;

When purchasing beams or logs pieces the calculation will be different: the length of all the walls around the perimeter will need to be divided by the length of the material (for example, 6 m); then divide the height of the bathhouse (optimal 2.1 m) by the thickness of the walls (from 0.2 m), multiply the resulting number by the number of walls (4) and the number of beams that will be needed to erect one crown (i.e. one row, frame log house).

Building shrinkage

Assemble the building from timber preferably in winter period. The fact is that in winter the moisture freezes out more slowly, and the deformation of the material occurs more evenly. By the end of summer, the main subsidence is almost over, and it will be possible to begin finishing.

During the construction of a bathhouse made from solid logs shrinkage (and therefore the finishing of the building) will have to wait much longer - up to 2 years. By the way, this is why you should not agree to build a turnkey bathhouse within a couple of months, which some companies offer. The fact is that if the building shrinks insufficiently, cracks may appear in the cladding. Therefore, before finishing begins, the building must stand for the required time.

Construction of the foundation

If the groundwater in the selected area is deep enough, it makes sense to use a regular one. Pile or screw foundation They are erected only when water is close to each other.

Strip and pile foundations for a bathhouse

Laying the first crown

1. The casing (first) crown, which is closest to the ground, needs reliable waterproofing. To do this, 2-3 layers of roofing material or other bitumen-based material are laid between it and the base. Short 15 mm slats, treated with an antiseptic, are placed on top of it in the transverse direction, and only then the logs are laid out.

Direction of laying slats

2. It is advisable to assemble the log house on the ground, since adjusting the crown on the foundation is not very convenient. The first crown should be made from the thickest log without knots or blue stains and preferably from wood that is most resistant to rotting: larch or oak.

3. All beams of this crown are thoroughly coated with bitumen. To ensure that the impregnation is absorbed into the wood as deeply as possible, it can be mixed with waste. The ends of the logs are not treated so that moisture can evaporate.

4. The laying of the embedded crown is verified by level with particular accuracy. When installing the lower links that are closest to the ground, the possibility of replacing them is immediately provided. To do this, the logs are simply joined at the corners with their ends, without a lock.

Corner connections of log houses

The corners between adjacent walls can be connected in log houses in different ways:

"into the bowl"(sometimes this method is called “in the oblo”): a bowl is cut out on the surface of a log with an ax so that neighboring logs fit halfway into it; the ends of the logs extend beyond the boundaries of the log house;

"in the paw": such cutting is more labor-intensive and does not tolerate mistakes; at the corners, a lock is selected from the logs (a tenon is prepared on one side of the log, a groove is prepared on the other); the main difficulty lies in maintaining the exact dimensions of the joint.

When cutting “into a bowl”, the parts protruding at the corners of the building can reliably cover the joint from rain and snow. Plus this cutting is much easier. The building looks “antique”, but it external cladding will be impossible to complete.

Corner connections log cabins

Assembling a log house

1. The logs should fit together as closely as possible. The seams between them are sealed with a sealant: tow or jute. The gap between decorative crown and the foundation is additionally sealed with bricks, polyurethane foam, halves of logs or bars. It is also possible to provide filling multi-level foundation, which will protect against the appearance of cracks.

Foundation with different levels

2. When assembling a building from non-profiled timber, to prevent the logs from torsion, they are mounted on dowels– durable rods made of metal or wood.

Nageli

3. During the shrinkage of the structure, doors and windows may jam. To avoid their deformation, they use window frames - boxes that are installed in door and window openings with special grooves. When the structure shrinks and moves, windows or doors will move along such grooves along with it. It can be of two types: U-shaped and T-shaped

4. Be sure to leave a 3-4 cm seam above each opening to compensate for movement. After the structure shrinks, it is closed with cashing.

Important! A sealant (linen fabric or jute) must be placed under the window frame. Polyurethane foam will prevent the shrinkage of logs, so its use is undesirable. The grooves and ridges must be caulked after installation.

Window frame and grooves in window openings for it

5. Upper crown (mauerlat) will serve as a support for the roof. Just as in the case of the frame crown, the strongest logs without defects are selected for it.

Video: Building a bathhouse with your own hands step by step
Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

Part 6

A do-it-yourself frame bathhouse, the step-by-step construction instructions of which includes several stages, is built quite easily if you follow the technology for constructing frame buildings. The option of constructing a frame-panel bathhouse is considered the most suitable for most homeowners. The simplicity of construction has made this type of bathhouse one of the most popular among owners of suburban areas.

This is due to the fact that this design looks very good from the outside, requires little time and money, and is guaranteed to serve its owner for up to fifty years.

The main advantages of frame baths

Baths of this type have a number of advantages besides those already mentioned. This way you can build the structure yourself without using heavy construction equipment or outside help. The structure can be erected regardless of the time of year, with complete absence of shrinkage. The design of the structure allows for covered communications. When using a frame structure, it is possible to choose a practically unlimited number of options for finishing the building both inside and outside.

At the same time, a frame bath can, if necessary, be moved to another place, sometimes without dismantling its structure. This allows it to be moved to a new plot if the old one is sold.

In the process of building a frame-panel type bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account and properly think through its thermal insulation. The fact is that the walls of such a bathhouse retain heat worse than the walls of, for example, a wooden structure, so it definitely requires good thermal insulation.

The second point worth paying attention to is the vapor barrier. The whole question here is that the frame structure of the building favors the collection of steam condensate in it. It is possible to get rid of it only by using a vapor barrier film or glassine. This insulation is laid between layers of mineral insulation and the cladding of the building.

When selecting building materials for a frame bathhouse, you should pay serious attention to ensuring that the boards used during construction work are dry. It is desirable that they be aspen, linden or larch. These types of wood are practically not deformed and have reduced thermal conductivity.

Frame mini bath

Main stages of work

If we consider the construction of a frame-panel bathhouse in stages, then it consists of the following operations:

• laying the foundation;
• wall assembly;
• roof construction;
• finishing of the building inside and out.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the preliminary work. These include drawing up a construction plan, its estimate, purchasing building materials, and laying out communications.

So, even before the construction of the foundation begins, it is worth marking and clearing the site for the bathhouse, performing the necessary excavation work, and purchasing all the necessary building materials.

Laying the foundation of the structure

In order to make a frame bathhouse, a foundation built according to a simplified scheme is sufficient. The fact is that a building of such a design weighs extremely little and can be built, for example, on pipes made of asbestos cement, poured concrete mortar.

To build it you need:

• make wells with a depth of 1.5 meters and a diameter of 200 millimeters;
• cut the pipes in half and place them in the wells, then fill them with sand;
• fill the pipes with a concrete solution made from fine crushed stone, water, sand and cement.

Foundation for a frame bath

The strapping from the boards is created at the next stage of construction work. Their size should be 50x100 mm, and they should be impregnated with an antiseptic. The strapping marks the walls, while the boards are mounted with the outer edge and nailed together. The strapping is fastened to the base using supports.

To make the entire structure highly durable, the strapping and logs are secured using metal fasteners embedded in concrete. Upon completion of its manufacture, this building structure is impregnated with an antibacterial substance.

Installation of bath walls

Having decided to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands, the builder should know that when installing the walls, the distance between the axes should be 0.6 millimeters. At the same time, such a wall should not provide for the arrangement of a window or doorway or a connection with other walls.

The gap for such walls is up to 0.4 millimeters. To provide overall structural strength in the area where the frame, walls and lintels join, an additional rack must be installed. Upon completion of frame installation, its geometry is checked.

Further work begins with drawing out the corner of the building. To do this, first a wall is built that directly communicates with the harness. After checking for verticality, it is temporarily secured using struts. The rest of the walls are installed in approximately the same way. When their construction is completed, the sheathing is installed.

Roofing construction and finishing

The assembly of rafters and other roofing elements is usually carried out on the ground. They are lifted directly onto the roof by hand and placed strictly above their stand. There are several types of roofing, but the most common for baths is ventilated.

It allows excess moisture to be removed from the room. During its construction, the sheathing is placed directly on the beams, and the hydro- and vapor barrier is laid under the counter beam. Cover finished roof ondulin, and the gables are covered with chipboard sheets.

The final stage of the construction of the bath complex is its finishing inside and out. Exterior walls are now usually finished with siding or blockhouse. Most cheap option- boards, most often spruce or pine. Sometimes a frame bathhouse is plastered or covered with tiles. At the same time, do not forget about waterproofing and insulating voids in the building cladding.

The interior of a bath usually excludes the use of paints and varnish due to their high toxicity when heated. It is best to finish the ceiling and walls with the same OSB sheets. You can use clapboard or wood siding. To avoid rotting of the walls, the walls must be insulated with foil.

Finishing the bathhouse with clapboard

Separately, it is worth mentioning the joints between the walls and ceiling. The fact is that the installed heat insulator must have a margin of 15 centimeters. You should check whether the floor boards are nailed face down to the joists.

We must not forget about fire safety: it is better to separate the steam room from other rooms with bricks.

Do-it-yourself frame bath: step-by-step construction instructions

A do-it-yourself frame bathhouse, the step-by-step construction instructions of which includes several stages, is built quite easily if you follow the technology for constructing frame buildings.

How to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands

In our country, a summer cottage or own house Without a bath it looks at least lonely. For centuries, bathhouses were built from logs and could not boast of a variety of layouts due to the peculiarities of the material. Today the situation has changed. Construction technologies and modern materials will make it possible to turn the most daring architectural ideas into reality. By following the advice in this article, you can learn how to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands step by step.

Frame technologies have been used to build houses for about 200 years. Construction using this technology is widespread in Scandinavian countries and North America. The simplicity and relatively low cost of construction have become the reason for the growing popularity of frame construction in Russia.

Preparing for construction

To start construction and accurately calculate the material, it is advisable to have a project. You can find it on the Internet or order it from a specialized company. Do-it-yourself frame bath projects (photo) are best ordered from professionals, however, you can draw it yourself, but you need to be as careful as possible. In addition, for the construction of a bathhouse you will need certain materials, namely:

• timber 100x100 mm;
• dry planed board 50x150 mm;
• insulation, vapor barrier;
• waterproofing;
• facade elements (siding, metal tiles);
• interior elements (lining, panels, etc.).

The next stage after purchasing the material will be preparation of the construction site and construction itself. Let's outline the main steps:

• foundation construction;
• raising and covering the main frame;
• roofing;
• internal Finishing work.

It is very important to create the correct project for a frame bath, and it is better to use already existing drawings. Below is a diagram of a do-it-yourself frame bathhouse, photo projects.

Construction of the foundation

The main frame of our bathhouse is a lightweight structure, so the requirements for the foundation will be minimal. You can use a foundation made of concrete blocks placed around the perimeter of the frame or a so-called columnar foundation.

The columnar foundation consists of asbestos-cement pipes filled with concrete. The depth of laying pipes is selected based on the type of soil. If the soil is dense - clayey, it is enough to dig the pipes 0.5 meters. For light soil types - sandy, the depth should be at least 1.5 meters. Optimal diameter pipes 100 mm, standard length 4 m, take this into account when calculating the amount of material. When digging in pipes, a gasoline drill will be an excellent assistant; you can rent one, as it is quite expensive. The diameter of the well should be twice the diameter of the pipes. The pipes are cut, taking into account the laying depth; it is enough to leave 0.5 meters on the surface. After installing the pillars in the well, fill them in a circle with soil and compact them well. The pipes are filled with concrete. Composition of the solution (cement grade M400):

An important point: the distance between the columns is selected based on the thickness of the walls (optimally 27 cm). To strengthen the foundation, you can additionally fill the pipes using the tape method (along the perimeter of the frame).

Construction of walls of a frame bath

If you purchased dry material for the frame, then construction can begin immediately after the foundation hardens. Otherwise, let the wood dry for a while. Next, guided by the design plan, prepare the frame racks and roof rafters. Mark the mounting locations for the racks and begin installing the main frame. The assembly of the bathhouse begins with treating the plinth timber with a fire-bioprotective compound. The treated timber is laid around the perimeter of the bathhouse and connected with nails and staples. Support beams are mounted on top, connected on top of the structure with 50x150mm boards. Constantly check the accuracy of installation of the supports with a level.

Important point: when assembling the main frame, use only NAILS of the appropriate size. The use of self-tapping screws is unacceptable! The difference in the fracture resistance of nails and self-tapping screws makes the use of the latter in frame assembly DANGEROUS! (SNiP 31-02).

Wall assembly procedure:

• two racks are mounted in the corners and several intermediate racks;
• the frame is sheathed OSB board(the plates are leveled and fastened with self-tapping screws);
• Some more racks are mounted and covered with OSB.

Following this algorithm, the entire structure is assembled. Consider the location of door and window openings. It is advisable to select the distance between the internal frame posts according to the width of the insulation board. Calculate the locations of windows and doors in advance so that the racks do not have to be moved during construction.

Advice! When assembling the supporting frame, the racks can be reinforced with slopes; after covering the structure with OSB boards and installing the roof, the slopes are removed.

Roof construction

A do-it-yourself frame bath involves compulsory work with the roof of the building. As written above, the rafters and roof base are mounted on the ground, after which they are installed according to the design diagram. The rafter material is a board with a section of 150x50 mm. Before the final assembly of the roof, it is necessary to lay a beam (mauerlat) around the perimeter of the frame; it serves as the lower support of the rafter system. Be sure to cut the OSB for the gables before final installation of the roof structure. During installation, assemble the rough flooring for ease of assembly.

Before the final covering of the roof, you need to lay the sheathing. The sheathing is laid from the ridge with 100x25 mm boards. After assembly, the sheathing can be laid on its own roof covering. A good roofing material is metal tiles or ondulin. To prevent the roof truss system from becoming damp and collapsing over time, it is important to good ventilation. To do this, a vapor barrier is laid under the rafters, and the roof sheathing is placed on top of the rafters.

Next, you should close the gables, install windows and doors, and you can begin interior decoration. Do-it-yourself frame bathhouse step-by-step instructions will help you make a reliable construction, so construction should be carried out strictly according to the indicated stages.

Interior decoration

The first priority is to lay the floor. The classic procedure for laying a floor consists of the following points:

1. 50x50 mm bars are nailed onto the strapping logs.
2. The subfloor is laid on them.
3. Waterproofing (roofing felt, roofing felt) is laid on the subfloor.
4. Minslabs are laid on top, the thickness of the slabs is about 10 cm.
5. A layer of vapor barrier is laid.
6. Then the finishing floor is laid.
7. An exhaust pipe is installed to ventilate the space under the floor.

It is worth noting that when installing the floor, errors are possible, which can then lead to the rework of part or the entire floor. Take floor assembly seriously. We will provide recommendations from experts that will help your floor last as long as possible:

1. Don't neglect the vapor barrier.
2. Do not replace the membrane vapor barrier coating with regular polyethylene.
3. Carefully seal all waterproofing seams with sealant.
4. The thermal insulation layer must be dense and of sufficient thickness.
5. Don't forget about ventilation.

An important point: before laying the floor in the washing compartment, solve the problem with draining the water. We talked about organizing sewerage in a summer cottage in one of our previous articles. In the washing area, the floor should be slightly sloping to the side drain hole. The floor boards must fit tightly together.

After installing the floor, proceed to finishing window and door openings and installation interior partitions. After that, all that remains is to cover the walls and ceiling with clapboard; for a paired compartment it is better to use clapboard made of non-coniferous wood - alder, ash, linden. Pine is perfect for other rooms. A vapor barrier and insulation are installed under the sheathing. A few words about the façade cladding. Several types of materials are used:

• siding (plastic or metal);
• lining (plastic, wood);
• imitation timber;
• block house.

Each of them has its own pros and cons. The choice is yours.

How to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands - step-by-step instructions - projects - photos

Frame buildings are quite common due to the simplicity of construction technology. You can build a frame bathhouse with your own hands if you have

How to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands step by step?

Prefabricated and inexpensive frame baths are very popular. More and more owners country houses they decide to build it on their site themselves, since construction does not require large investments. Find out everything about building a frame bathhouse with your own hands, a video from the foundation to the roof from the article.

How to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands: step-by-step instructions with photos

The advantage of a steam room built by yourself is that the weight of the structure is light and the building does not require a powerful foundation. You can purchase inexpensive materials for construction. Must be purchased asbestos pipes diameter 100 mm, length - 4 m. You need sand, crushed stone, cement. The materials left over from the construction of a house, gazebo or garage are also quite suitable. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the advantages of building a frame bathhouse with your own hands, namely:

1. The structure is prefabricated, low cost.
2. It can have any shape, design and will harmoniously fit into the exterior of the site.
3. Possibility of carrying out construction work all year round.

A frame bathhouse’s design is significantly different from a building made of brick, logs and foam blocks. To make the room more practical, you need to pay special attention to vapor barrier and thermal insulation. Craftsmen recommend using vapor barrier film and mineral wool for these purposes. In this way, a high degree of tightness will be achieved, and normal air exchange will not be disrupted. This point needs to be given due attention, since the disadvantage of frame buildings is the tendency to form a large amount of condensate.

Before starting construction, you must select the type of structure. Most inexpensive option- This is a frame bathhouse attached to the house. This saves money on the construction of walls, and the capital structure gives the structure greater rigidity. A separate building with an attic or gazebo is a wonderful opportunity to combine business with pleasure. However, the cost of such a bath will be higher.

Where is the best place to place a frame bathhouse on the site? In this matter, you can completely focus on your personal preferences. It is better to place the structure in a recreation area in a suburban area. Many owners decide to build a sauna next to a pond or swimming pool. If you place the steam room next to the grill, then after the thermal procedures you can immediately start eating delicious food.

Boards made from these types of wood have low thermal conductivity, and they should only be placed vertically. Boards made from the above wood are able to maintain excellent appearance and shape for a long time; they do not deform under the influence of high temperatures.

How to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands: stages of construction

It takes a little time to build a bathhouse yourself, but this will not affect its service life in any way. According to reviews from many owners of such structures, they can easily last for several decades, strong enough to withstand gusts of wind and heavy snowfalls.

We suggest following the following sequence of work:

1. Pouring the foundation. For this, previously purchased asbestos pipes are required. First, wells with a diameter of at least 200 mm and a depth of up to 1.5 meters are dug or drilled. Pipes are inserted into them, the vertical position is established using a level. The perimeter of the well is filled with sand, and the pipe itself is filled with concrete mortar. The sand around the pipe is carefully compacted.
2. Flooring. Attaches to asbestos pipes wooden beam as shown in the photo. Subfloor boards, vapor barrier and insulation are laid on the fixed timber. The flooring is laid last. The entire tree must be treated with an antiseptic to protect against pests and rotting. Mineral wool is suitable as insulation.
3. Construction of walls frame bath. The assembly of walls begins with the formation of a corner. Wood and logs are fastened together using nails. IN last resort The inner lining is installed and thoroughly polished. The external parts of the frame bath will be exposed to high temperatures and high humidity, so they need to be treated twice with furniture varnish.
4. Erection of the roof. Beams with a diameter of 150x150 mm are laid on the top frame, the distance between them is 50 cm. The rafters are assembled. The roof must be assembled taking into account certain features. For example, it must be well ventilated, sufficiently durable and well protected by the roofing material. The ceiling is insulated, and lining is used for cladding.
5. Finishing work. To the lags front side The boards are attached after installing the vapor barrier material. All voids are filled with thermal insulation material. In the steam room, brick fences are built to protect the walls from the high temperature emanating from the boiler or furnace. The outside walls can be sheathed with any finishing material. For example, siding, which is quickly installed and inexpensive. You can use pine boards, which cover the entire structure along the outer perimeter.

Despite the fact that a frame bathhouse is assembled quickly and is simply arranged, this structure turns out to be quite attractive and practical. Maintenance of the structure is simple and inexpensive, and with proper use it will last for more than 50 years.

Do-it-yourself frame bathhouse: video from foundation to roof

Owners of a country house are increasingly giving preference to a frame bathhouse, which is easy and inexpensive to build with your own hands. Photos and videos from foundation to roof

Do-it-yourself frame bath: ready-made drawings, step-by-step instructions and finishing recommendations

Building a frame bathhouse with your own hands is quite simple. If it is also properly insulated and protected from moisture, it will be possible to get a steam room that will be practically in no way inferior to structures made of stones or rounded logs.

Advantages and disadvantages of a frame bath

Each building material has its own advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account. Recently, frame baths have begun to become popular, so it makes sense to find out why they are better than structures made from other materials.

The advantages of such a bath:

However, it is important to know that a frame bath has significant disadvantages:

1. Costs for insulation and Decoration Materials. The frame building itself is cheaper than a stone or timber steam room, but the cost increases several times during finishing and insulation work. Panels for decoration and plastering are required.
2. Shrinkage. The process takes at least 2 years, and the building may sag by 10 cm. This may lead to deformation of the finishing layer. To reduce the effects of shrinkage, it is recommended to use chamber-drying materials during the construction process.
3. The difficulty of choosing high-quality material for insulation. If you use budget mineral wool, the bathhouse will not be able to fully cope with its functions. The use of budget polystyrene foam is also not allowed, since the material is easily flammable.

Preparation for construction: project drawings

Creating a drawing requires certain skills. If they are not there, then it is better to entrust this work to a specialist or use a ready-made drawing.

Before drawing up a diagram, it is important to decide on the following points:

You need to include all the information received in the drawing, as well as supplement the project necessary details. The more detailed the diagram, the easier it is to build a bathhouse.

The more detailed the project, the easier it is to make a frame bathhouse yourself

A standard bath includes a corridor, a dressing room, a washing room and a steam room.

A standard frame bath consists of a dressing room, steam room, shower and rest room

Quite often a separate room for recreation is provided. It is recommended to mark the installation location of the stove on the diagram. If this is a steam room, then it is best to place the stove in the corner closest to the door. The stove can be stone or brick.

It is recommended to determine in advance the dimensions of each room and indicate them in the drawing. Standard sizes steam rooms - 200x240 cm. The optimal ceiling height is 220 cm. This design can accommodate 2-3 people at the same time.

In the drawing you can see a bathhouse for a suburban area with a balcony measuring 1.5x4 m. The overall dimensions of the building are 4x6 m. The project is suitable for organizing gatherings in an open area in the summer.

A frame bath can be equipped with a terrace for gatherings in the warm season

This bathhouse consists of 3 rooms:

The corridor is shown separately in the diagram. There is no room for a locker room. In the washing room there is small place for changing clothes. The terrace connects to the living room.

The optimal wall thickness of a frame structure is 100 mm or more. The wood that is used in the process of making a bath must be treated with an antiseptic. It is recommended to use dried, calibrated lumber.

It is mandatory to perform a vapor barrier of the insulating material on the internal base. In the steam room you need to use foil vapor barrier. The reflective layer can increase the temperature inside the steam room.

Walls and ceilings in the stove area should be made using non-flammable materials. For example, the frame is made of a rack-mount metal profile, which is coated with zinc. Cuttings can be made from asbestos cord. In these places, a basalt slab can be used as an insulating material.

Required device supply and exhaust ventilation in all rooms. Floors in the sink should be made with a slight slope or along a screed. The top and bottom floors need to be insulated in the same way as the walls.

The minimum size of a frame bath is 3x4 m.

The minimum size of a bathhouse for a comfortable stay of several people is 3x4 m

The budget version of the frame is made in this way: the racks are sheathed on the inside and outside with boards up to 25 mm, basalt insulation or ecowool.

If you plan to use ecowool inside the walls, it should be carefully compacted and horizontal platforms for unloading should be installed. The frame must be sheathed inside and outside. To do this you will need to make a sheathing. On the outside, the insulation material is covered with a membrane to protect it from the wind. In the horizontal plane, the use of ecowool is more economical option compared to basalt insulation.

The outside of the frame structure can be covered with any facing material. The inside of the building is covered with clapboard, plasterboard sheets with tiles or imitation timber.

The frame should be assembled from the following parts:

• bars;
• slats for creating sheathing;
• boards for the floor base.

Instead of plank flooring, the floor base can be covered with tiles. You need to choose based on personal preferences, however, in the case of a steam room, it is recommended to give preference to wood. There will also be materials for protection. Quite often, lining is used for wall cladding.

It is recommended to cover a frame bath with wooden clapboard

To cover the structure from the outside, you can use larch lining. The inside of the building is clad with clapboard made of coniferous trees. Sheathing boards must be mounted vertically.

Excess moisture and elevated temperatures will negatively affect structural elements, so it will not be possible to do without the use of special protective materials. You can use glassine, polyethylene or roofing felt. A vapor barrier should be placed between the insulation and the sheathing. The disadvantage of roofing felt is that during the heating process it will emit an unpleasant odor. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it.

You need to pay attention to the selection of material for thermal insulation. If you choose wisely and correct installation insulation will be able to significantly reduce heat losses, as well as the cost of heating a bathhouse building.

Mineral wool is used as insulation in most cases.

A good insulation material for a frame bath is mineral wool.

A good option is to use fiberglass. In some cases, the ceiling is insulated with expanded polystyrene, and the floor base with expanded clay.

Calculation of materials and list of tools

As an example, we will consider the calculation for a frame bath of the most common sizes. The frame is made of timber, the size of the structure is 5x4 m. The base will be reinforced columnar.

For the frame structure, you can use a lightweight foundation made of asbestos-cement pipes

Coniferous wood lining is used to decorate the walls inside and outside. The roof will be gable, the covering will be metal tiles.

A pressing issue is the choice of wood. The material must be dried. Linden, larch or aspen are most suitable. These rocks have low thermal conductivity; they are capable of maintaining their original structure for a long period of time. The walls are erected from boards 2-3 cm thick. For outer skin slats made of larch or pine are suitable.

In terms of cost and reliability, a columnar reinforced base is the best option for frame construction.

Columnar reinforced foundation is suitable for the construction of frame baths in most regions

It can be used in most regions. You will need to prepare materials in the following quantities:

• concrete - 2 m 3;
• edged boards for the frame - 0.3 m 3;
• reinforcing bars - 80 linear meters

The frame can be made from boards, pieces of plywood sheets or OSB. If the soil on the construction site is clayey, then formwork is not necessary.

The most complex and financially expensive part of the bathhouse is the frame. The purchase of materials at this stage must be approached carefully. List of required materials:

• beam 120x120 mm - 5.3 m 3;
• mineral wool 10 cm thick - 36 m2;
• material for vapor barrier - 40 m2;
• wooden lining - 70 m2;
• material for waterproofing - 40 m2.

To save money, instead of bars you can purchase 50x100 mm boards.

To save money, you can use 50x100 mm edged boards during the frame manufacturing process

The timber must be of the second grade and lower, the board can only be of the first grade. The cladding of the walls on the outside can be done not with wooden lining, but with plastic sheets or corrugated sheets.

The floor is made of edged veneer boards. The ceiling should be covered with clapboard. If you want to save money, you can use mineral wool for thermal insulation. List of materials:

• edged boards - 1.8 m 3;
• boards 150x50 mm - 0.2 m 3;
• plinth - 20 linear meters;
• mineral wool - 20 m2;
• wooden lining - 20 m2.

You can save money on attic flooring. If you do not plan to use it, then the mineral wool can be covered unedged board or pieces of slabs.

The roof is gable, the attic can be used to store tools.

The best option for a frame structure is a gable roof.

There is no need to insulate the roof. The rafters will be hanging. You will need the following materials:

• drainage system - 1 set;
• slats for rafters - 0.2 m 3;
• lathing strips - 0.1 m 3;
• cornice slats - 0.1 m 3;
• metal tiles - 20 m2.

In a bathhouse, quite often, instead of a drain, a blind area around the perimeter is installed using a cement-sand mortar.

It is important to think through all architectural and construction tasks, which include:

• interior lining bathhouse construction;
• choice optimal materials for construction work;
• actions that are required to ensure the safe use of the structure.

After preparing the tools and materials, you can proceed to construction work.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions with photos

A building of this type is lightweight, so the base can be lightweight. The easiest way is to make a columnar foundation on asbestos cement pipes, which will later be filled with concrete mortar. Sequencing:

Next, the structure is tied. To do this, you need to prepare slats with a cross section of 100x50 mm. The materials will need to be pre-treated with an antiseptic mixture to protect them from rotting. The walls are marked, after which the slats are placed along the outer line.

Before tying the boards, you need to treat them with an antiseptic.

The boards must be placed on the outer edge and nails must be driven in for fixation. The base trim can be connected using supports.

Upper and lower harness should be made of boards, while the bottom one must be cut off from the base so that it is possible to lay roofing material. The horizontal position should be checked with a level. If deviations are found, it will be necessary to lay only several layers.

Intermediate racks are mounted taking into account that it is possible to install thermal insulation and cladding materials in the future. To increase the strength of the structure, the harness and joists should be secured using pre-fixed iron plates.

To add strength to the structure, it is recommended to use metal plates

The binding must be treated with a mixture that prevents rotting.

How to make walls

In the process of building walls, the interaxial distance is essential. The indicator will be equal to 0.6 m, provided that preparation of the opening and joining with the remaining walls is not planned. Otherwise, the gap must be reduced to 0.4 m. The distance between the racks will depend on the dimensions of the doors and windows. For the frame you need to use 50x100 mm boards. Sequence of actions for constructing walls:

If you plan to make a frame bathhouse with an attic, you need to leave space for installing doors and windows.

For the frame structure, 100 mm strips are used, so the insulation must be of appropriate thickness.

The thickness of the mineral wool should correspond to the thickness of the boards

During the installation process, the excess length and width can be compressed, as a result the resulting gaps will be tightly closed.

During the insulation process, each connection must be carefully inspected, otherwise the structure will be leaky. Such baths are unsuitable for use. Vapor and waterproofing is made from foil. Minimum thickness material - 40 microns. The foil joints are sealed with tape or foil film. The foil is laid in strips from bottom to top. To secure the foil to the wood pieces, you need to use a hand stapler.

How to arrange a roof

For convenience, you can make a template that will allow you to easily assemble the rafter system.

Installation gable roof must be carried out according to the scheme. A template can make the process easier

You will need to do the following:

1. The roof must be assembled on the ground and then lifted up. Each structure is located above the corresponding rack.
2. To make work easier, temporary ceilings made of thick planks can be laid on the slats.
3. Each part has its own place above the rack, so it is important not to make mistakes when performing calculations.
4. It is recommended to make the roof ventilated. To do this, you need to lay the sheathing and ondulin between the rafters and the counter-batten.
5. The gables need to be covered with OSB boards.
6. Doors and windows are being installed.

After this, you can sheath the structure on both sides. It is also important to take care of quality ventilation. For a small bathhouse, an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 12 cm is suitable. The part must be taken to the attic.

The outside of the bathhouse is sheathed with siding, boards, plaster or ceramic tiles. Waterproofing material should be laid under the sheathing. The resulting gaps can be filled with thermal insulation material. You need to leave a small gap between the clapboard and the foil for ventilation. For this purpose, strips several cm thick should be nailed to the vertical supporting parts. The distance between the elements must be selected taking into account the distance between the supports.

In the diagram you can see the design of the wall cladding

To give rigidity to the walls, they need to be covered with plaster shingles. After the cladding work is completed, the outside of the structure must be plastered.

Guidelines for internal cladding of frame buildings:

1. The inside of the building should not be painted, as paints and varnishes will release harmful chemicals when heated.
2. To make a rough ceiling, you should use OSB boards. They must be secured to the bottom of the floor beams.
3. The walls in the steam room should be covered with foil. The remaining walls can be covered with glassine.
4. The minimum ceiling height is 2.2 m. In this case, it will be possible to install lining and additionally insulate the ceiling.
5. It is important to pay attention to the joints between the walls and ceiling structure. The vapor barrier material must protrude at least 15 cm.

The slats can be nailed using different methods - during the fitting process, a selection is made into a groove or a quarter. The slats must be attached to the joists with the front part.

There is no need to make holes between the foil and the corrugated sheet; the sheets are nailed to the foil. Fixation is done using self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets.

After this, the furnace and boiler are installed. It is important to remember fire safety rules. The wall that will be used for the soaring room and resting place must be made of brick. It is recommended to place the heating boiler in the dressing room. The best option is a brick stove, however, if there is no experience in laying a similar structure, it is recommended to entrust this work to a qualified stove-maker.

When working with foil, you need to be careful, as the material is easily damaged. Any gaps will significantly reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation. The vapor barrier should be fixed with a stapler, and it is important to ensure that there is no sagging of the material. The minimum distance between the wooden paneling and the insulating material is 1 cm.

In the bathhouse, it is best to attach the foil using an ordinary stapler

Frame structures are convenient in terms of finishing. Work can be done both inside and outside. If there is a forced break, you can make partition frames at this time, upholstering them with blockhouse or clapboard. In this case, the time will be spent usefully.

For most regions optimal thickness walls of a frame building is 10 cm. Insulation can be done either with mineral wool or with expanded polystyrene. A layer of mineral wool 12 cm thick can replace a wall made of bars 50 cm thick.

You can insulate a bathhouse from the inside using mineral wool

For northern regions with cold climates, there are 2 methods of insulating a bath:

If you plan to use expanded polystyrene, then after installing the sheets you need to make a thin screed using a mesh of reinforcement. Finally, a topcoat should be applied.

It is not recommended to use sawdust and clay to insulate the ceiling

During the cooking process, they will be mixed in water with clay, and therefore the insulation will have a lot of weight. In addition, a large amount of liquid often causes wet ceiling parts made of wood. This has Negative influence on the operational characteristics of the bathhouse building.

Frame walls are an excellent bait for rodents who love polystyrene foam. In 2–3 years, solid sheets can turn into dust. Therefore, it is not recommended to use polystyrene foam for insulating rooms inside a frame structure.

Particular attention should be paid to the quality of vapor and waterproofing. Such a bathhouse does not have free supports; each of them will carry the load and hold other parts of the building. If the strength is compromised due to prolonged exposure to moisture with one rack, the sauna may become unstable. In this case, complex repair work will be necessary. It is best to prevent such a situation at the stage of insulating the rooms.

To insulate the insulation, it is best to use aluminum film.

It is best to insulate the insulation with aluminum film

However, the material is not cheap. If you want to save money, you can use plastic film. The material is cheaper, but in terms of steam and water protection parameters it is practically not inferior to foil. It should be remembered that polyethylene can be damaged when exposed to sunlight. For this reason, it is important to cover the frames. This will reliably protect the film from exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

Not everyone has the desire or ability to invest a lot of money in the construction of a bathhouse. And in most parts of our country, sometimes it’s simply necessary to warm up. The only way out is to build a sauna inexpensively, with your own hands. There are a sufficient number of building materials and technologies that can be called budget.

If we talk about the construction of full-fledged, albeit small, but free-standing baths, then frame and monolithic are considered the most budget-friendly technologies. Cheap baths are often made on a wooden frame, lined with plywood, OSB, boards - whoever has what. Insulation is placed inside, between the two skins.

One of the options for a frame structure is with board cladding

At monolithic construction The most popular for the construction of baths is arbolite - a mixture of cement and sawdust. Sawdust can be completely free or cost very little. Little cement is required in wood concrete, so this type of construction is unlikely to hit your pocket hard. Removable formwork is placed around the perimeter of the building, the mixture is loaded into it, and compacted. The next batch is mixed. It's that simple. The disadvantage of this material is considered to be flammability, but wooden and frame baths are also flammable. So this is not an argument.

Sawdust concrete or wood concrete - warm, natural material which consists of sawdust, sand, cement and water

Polystyrene concrete (granulated foam plastic mixed with cement and water) is not much more expensive, but not everyone likes the use of “chemistry” - foam plastic - in the construction of a bathhouse. However, this material itself makes it possible to obtain a cheap and lightweight construction, which, when proper finishing will only please the owners.

All three technologies provide a combination of low price and good thermal characteristics, that is, heating such buildings requires little fuel, which in baths is the main indicator of efficiency.

There are regions where wood is still the cheapest material. It might be cheaper to put them in chopped bath. From round timber or from timber - this is optional. The advantage of this solution is that it is a natural material (although it must be impregnated with chemicals to preserve its appearance and protect against diseases and insects). But chopped saunas have their drawbacks - you can start steaming no earlier than a year after the walls are built and the roof is installed. We must wait until the main shrinkage has passed and only then begin insulation and finishing work. The second disadvantage is that the protective coating must be regularly updated, otherwise the building will become gray and unsightly. But on their own wooden baths very good special atmosphere.

Inexpensive foundations

Inexpensive wall construction technology is not everything. Sometimes the construction of the foundation takes almost half of the funds required for the construction of the building as a whole. The technologies listed above are good because lightweight foundations can be made for them. In some places a columnar one is sufficient, in others a pile or pile-grillage structure is sufficient. Any of the walls listed above can coexist quite normally with them, leveling out their shortcomings (possible uneven shrinkage of different support points).

The foundations listed above may not be implemented on all soils. Sometimes it may be necessary strip foundation shallow or normal, but on particularly heaving or unstable soils it may be necessary monolithic slab. On such grounds, to the wall construction technologies listed above, you can add building blocks- foam concrete, cinder block, expanded clay concrete. All of them have their own characteristics (mainly, careful protection from high humidity is required), but the construction technology is also inexpensive, although more solid foundations are required.

Compact or temporary

If at your dacha you want to build a mini-bathhouse, a very small cabin in size, then you need to take a closer look at the construction technology or. If desired, even an ordinary construction trailer, barn or shed can be turned into a more or less normal steam room. It is only important to insulate it well and install the correct stove. Everything else is not so important.

Cheap frame bathhouse step by step - photo report

The initial data is as follows: the bathhouse is no more than 4*5 meters in size, the budget is small - no more than $200-300 per month. From the initial data - clay heaving soil, 4 meters from the fence - a cliff. Having brought all this together, it was decided to build a frame bathhouse on a columnar foundation.

The bathhouse itself turned out to be 5 * 3 m, plus a terrace 1 meter wide on the long side. It was decided to make the pillars for the bathhouse from asbestos-cement pipes 34 cm in diameter, for the terrace from 15 cm. In the center of the plan, 4 more additional pillars are marked - this is the foundation for a brick oven.

We dig below the freezing depth - for this region 140 cm. By the way, we cut the pipes by 20 cm more - the total length is 160 cm, so that the bathhouse is 20 cm above the ground.

A frame made of reinforcement 12 mm in diameter is installed inside each column. 4 rods are tied, the release from the post is 10-15 cm, so that you can then safely weld the harness.

The concrete was ordered ready-made, grade M250. Formwork was placed along the perimeter between the pillars and a boot was immediately poured, which will close the gap between the bathhouse floor and the ground.

A week later, the concrete had gained enough strength and work continued. A frame was welded from a 70*70 mm corner with a wall thickness of 6 mm (the corner was on the farm). To connect the pillars and metal, we weld the fittings to the corner shelves.

It must be said right away that this foundation is redundant in terms of bearing capacity. It is possible to build a two-story heavy building on it, rather than a light one-story frame. But, since they were doing it “for themselves,” and there was also a clay cliff nearby, it was decided to play it safe.

It was decided to have heated floors in the washing room and rest room - sometimes you just need to wash yourself without steaming, but doing it on a heated floor is much more pleasant.

Therefore, insulation (expanded polystyrene) is laid on the subfloor, waterproofing and reinforcing mesh are placed on top, pipes are attached to it, and the whole thing is filled with concrete. Naturally, the heated floor was not poured under the stove.

Another week later, when the concrete had gained enough strength (they did not cover it, but watered it regularly), work began on constructing the frame. For the racks we used timber 150*150 mm, spacers - board 50*150 mm (again a significant margin of strength, but this was out of a desire to build a good bathhouse).

The bathhouse was built mainly alone, so a sequential installation method was chosen - the racks are placed first in the corners, then in those places where doors and windows will be installed or adjoining partitions. If as a result there are gaps of more than 1 meter somewhere, additional racks are installed. But in this case, since all the racks were made of very powerful timber, intermediate ones were not installed, and the rigidity of the structure was added by bevels.

Next, so that when laying the floor it would not drip on your head, we began making the roof of the bathhouse. It is made at the most budget level - single-slope, with a minimum rise of 15°. To ensure this slope, the beams for the racks were made in advance of different lengths.

A top trim board is nailed to the posts at the same level, and they are attached to it. ceiling beams. Rafters with the required slope are attached to the same racks. A continuous sheathing is placed on top under the roofing material.

The rafter system of a pitched roof is very easy to manufacture

After the roof was ready, the walls were sheathed with OSB, and then the floor was laid on the remaining part of the bathhouse.

Next stage- furnace laying. This is a long-term matter - gone whole month. The stove is folded with a closed heater. In the chimney formation area there is a built-in cast iron box into which stones are placed. There is a door leading into the heater, which opens into the steam room.

The stove also has a built-in register that heats water for the heated floor (outlets on the side of the stove). It is not always necessary to heat the floor, therefore there are two operating modes - summer without floor heating, and winter, with “turning on” the heating of the register. Transfer from one mode to another using a valve.

Next comes the finishing work, and it will be different in different cases. The only thing that will be more or less common is insulation. Mineral wool was used to insulate the walls and ceiling. The thickness of the layer on the walls in “cold rooms” is 100 mm, in the steam room and on the ceiling – 150 mm. The steam room is lined with foil on kraft paper on top of the insulation.

After the insulation, a vapor barrier is attached. In the rest room, the walls are covered with OSB, with cork glued on top. In the shower room, tiles are glued to OSB, the “dry” part is covered with clapboard (horizontally).

Washing area - dry area and shower

The steam room is filled first with lathing for clapboard cladding, then with wide clapboard. The steam room turned out to be quite small, and the stove also takes up a lot of space. Two can be accommodated comfortably, three are more difficult, but also quite comfortable. To regulate the number of seats in the steam room, the shelves were made retractable.

The entire construction process took two years, the work was carried out mainly “in one hand.” The assistants were present only at the stage of pouring the foundation, and then at the stage of installing the frame - to set up the racks (they must stand 100% vertically).

Video example of building a bathhouse from monolithic wood concrete

Inexpensive 3*6 sauna with your own hands - step by step photos

The log for the future bathhouse was prepared and sanded in advance, covered from the rains and dried for about 5 months. The structure will consist of two halves: the steam room and sink are made of logs, and the relaxation room is built on a wooden frame. It turns out two rooms 3*3 m. Construction began with markings: 6*3 in plan.

The soil is sandy, so we make it shallow. We dig a trench 60 cm deep and place the formwork. The width of the tape was taken with a good margin - 35 cm.

We make doors from a frame, on which OSB is stuffed on one side and lining on the other. About how to do

We leave it to winter in this form - the log house should “sit down”. In the spring, we insulate the frame part of the building and cover the insulation with a vapor barrier membrane.

Let's start finishing the ceiling. It was decided to do a budget ceiling lining - put short boards between the rafters. They can be bought very inexpensively. We process it and cut it to the required length. We fill the rafters with support bars, to which we attach boards cut to size from below.

The outside of the Yuan was covered with siding - both the frame part and the frame. It turned out far from perfect. And there is a ventilation gap between the siding and the wall, so there are no problems with moisture removal.

Do-it-yourself budget sauna - another inexpensive solution - siding

We started covering interior spaces. We fill the sheathing and the lining on it.

The inside of the rest room was lined with clapboard

Let's move on to finishing the steam room. First we covered everything with foil. The room itself will consist of a steam room area, separated glass door, and “washing” zones. We'll cover the wall in the wash moisture-resistant plasterboard, onto which we will then glue the tiles, and in the steam room - with clapboard.

We cover the steam room area with clapboard and

We cut an opening in the wall for installing the stove. She will drown herself from the rest room, and her “body” will be in the steam room. We lay a brick base under the stove and install it. We line the fuel outlet with fireclay bricks.

We tile the sink.

That’s it for the main work, all that’s left are the decor and all sorts of things - buckets, ladles, thermometers and the rest of the “stuffing.”

The bathhouse is one of the integral parts of Russian life. Despite modern technologies and development, it is unlikely that our compatriot will refuse the opportunity to steam in a bathhouse, which he built with his own hands on the site. Even if you are not the happy owner of a city mansion, you can build it in your country house. Many people dream of having their own bathhouse, but how can you make your dreams come true?

DIY sauna from foundation to roof. Features of construction

Classic Russian baths are, of course, wooden buildings. They have some similarities with Finnish sauna. To construct them, a frame is cut down and hewn from the inside. In Russia, pine and some other types of wood are used as construction materials. The main indicator when choosing is the minimum amount of resinous substances, since when heated and humidity such material begins to “sweat”.

The construction technology itself log bathhouse has its own characteristics and differences from the construction of a residential hut. First of all, these are increased requirements for the characteristics and quality of the material. The logs must be seasoned, straight and capable of providing a quality connection.

Special attention is paid to tightness indicators. Unnecessary heat loss will be very noticeable, which reduces efficiency. For maximum temperature preservation, the walls are caulked using moss or tow.

A bathhouse built from timber or logs has an impressive and attractive appearance, but not everyone can afford the price of such a structure. A cheaper option is to use frame-panel technologies. It requires a small amount of materials, and the foundation itself will cost less, since mineral wool or similar analogues are used as insulation. In this case, there is no need to build a massive foundation due to the insignificant weight of the entire structure.

Advantage frame walls for a bathhouse is the absence of settlement of the building. However, there are also disadvantages to using frames - the appearance of moisture during snowstorms and rains. It is formed during the process of vapor condensation. To avoid such troubles, use waterproofing.

Before starting construction, you need to understand the main steps that need to be completed:

• The right approach starts with drawing up estimate documentation. It will allow you to display prices for all types of work and necessary materials. In addition, the estimate will allow for adjustments and redistribution of the budget.

• After this, you can start creating a bath project. Without skills and abilities in this area, you will not be able to think through everything to the smallest detail. Because of this, it is best to invite a professional architect who will draw up drawings with the basic requirements and wishes of the client.

• One of the main stages in the construction of a bathhouse is the selection of materials for the foundation. This building element directly affects the durability and strength of the entire structure.

• Next, you need to select the most optimal materials for walls and roofing in terms of price and quality. Today the construction market has a lot of offers that can satisfy everyone’s wishes.

• When building a bathhouse, special attention is required to internal communications, such as electricity and plumbing.

• Depending on the size of the bath space and personal wishes, it is necessary to select a stove and consider its installation location.

• The final stage in the construction of a bathhouse is the finishing work inside the room.

DIY sauna from foundation to roof

First you need to decide on the location on the site. This requires special attention from the owner. The choice itself depends on the size of the territory and the evenness of the surface. It is also worth considering the geometric parameters of the bath itself. It is worth considering the most optimal conditions for supplying communications in the future. To support bath traditions, it is built near bodies of water in order to experience all the charm and contrast of sensations when plunging into cool water.

Development of a project for building a bathhouse

In the classical style, the bathhouse consists of three rooms: a dressing room, a steam room and a washing room. Often last rooms combined into one. The dressing room is necessary for the location of the locker, benches, table and chairs. This is where company gathers for friendly gatherings. Shelves for bath accessories, firewood or coal are also installed here.

The choice and development of a bathhouse project depends on wishes, free territory and financial capabilities. It is quite difficult to create a high-quality and thoughtful plan on your own. To do this, it is best to invite an architect who can quickly make your dreams come true real project. It should be noted that the dimensions can be arbitrary. But for maximum convenience, it is necessary to carry out calculations. For comfort, each person steaming should have about 5-6 m2. However, in reality, bathhouses are built both larger and smaller.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse foundation

Like other buildings, a bathhouse requires the construction of a foundation, which must be laid to the depth of soil freezing. In this case, it is necessary to decide on the material for the walls. This is necessary to calculate the maximum loads, since the massiveness of the base itself will differ from the weight of the wall.

If you plan to build stone walls, you will need a strip foundation made of rubble stone. The materials for the foundation can be concrete, iron ore and brick. It is necessary to understand that red and sand-lime bricks are destroyed in the ground due to exposure to moisture.

Having chosen the material, it is necessary to build the foundation half a meter above the soil level. To level the surface, use a cement-sand mortar. After drying, it is necessary to lay the roofing felt on the mastic. This will allow moisture coming from the ground to be cut off from the building.

What type of foundation to choose for a bathhouse

For a bathhouse, you can use several foundation options. Their choice depends on the depth of occurrence groundwater, geometric dimensions of the structure and wall materials. The most effective for a bath are:

• Lightweight concrete strip with a reinforcement belt. It is used in the construction of simple structures that have a small specific gravity. To create a strip foundation, rubble stone or concrete is used. They are held together with mortar. For the device, it is necessary to prepare a pit with a gravel or sand cushion 15 centimeters thick. As for the width of such a foundation, it depends on the size of the bathhouse and the type of structure.

• Columnar with supporting concrete brick or metal pillars. This type is used when soil water is deep. It consists of support pillars located at the corners and along the perimeter. The distance between such pillars should not exceed two meters. Concrete, brick, asbestos-cement or metal pipes. They are buried in the ground to a certain depth, after which they are filled with concrete.

• Floating. This is an alternative option for which a monolithic slab is used. It can be used on any soil, regardless of the depth of soil moisture. To arrange such a foundation, it is enough to dig a trench with a depth of 50-60 centimeters, at the bottom of which gravel or sand is poured. After this, a layer of waterproofing is laid down and filled with concrete.

• A screw foundation is used when building a bathhouse on loose or unstable soil. It is created using screw pipes that have a pointed tip for easy penetration into the ground. It should be noted that the depth of immersion of piles may vary. The pillars are screwed into the soil by two or three people.

• Pile-screw grillage. It is used as additional strapping using metal channels or timber.

In practice, people want to build wooden sauna because of her unique properties. In this case, most optimal type The foundation for building a bathhouse with your own hands is columnar. Unlike other options, it has a number of advantages:

1. Almost everyone can install a columnar foundation. This does not require special knowledge or the use of construction equipment.
2. A wide range of materials that can be used: concrete, brick and metal pipes.
3. Minimum expenditure of effort and time for its construction. Unlike poured concrete, it dries very quickly.
4. This option is the most effective for a bathhouse, since ventilation and water drainage systems are very easy to organize.

Preparing a trench for the foundation

For example, let’s take conditions in which the soil freezes to 70 centimeters, and soil water is located at a depth of one meter. In this case, it is necessary to use support pillars with a diameter of 200 millimeters, deepened one meter into the ground.

First you need to create a preliminary layout of all support pillars. Along the perimeter of the future building they must be placed in increments of one and a half meters. Additional supports are installed at the intersection of walls and corners. After marking all the pillars, it is necessary to drill holes. They should have a diameter 50 millimeters larger than the pipes themselves. The bottom of the pits is filled with sand 20 centimeters thick, followed by compaction.

After this, pipes are prepared, which should protrude from the ground by at least 40 centimeters. As a result, they will have a length of 1.4 meters. Before installation in the ground, the piles are wrapped in roofing material. During the installation process, the pipes are covered with fine crushed stone or screenings, which will add additional strength to the structure. Rods are mounted into the supports to reinforce the structure. The last stage is concreting.

Features of the foundation for a bathhouse stove

The design of the foundation largely depends on the type of heating furnace that will be used. If you plan to use a device weighing more than 500 kilograms, you should consider creating a separate concrete pad for the furnace. To do this, you can use two options:

1. A columnar or strip foundation is created over the entire area of ​​the furnace with additional structural reinforcement.
2. Another widely used option is a monolithic concrete pad. It is placed exclusively under the stove.

Creating a water drain in a bathhouse with your own hands

When creating a bathhouse, you need to think about an effective system for draining water from the room. As you know, moisture is the enemy of buildings and reduces the service life of materials. Because of this, water must be diverted at least 3-5 meters from the structure. It is necessary to install a drain in the floor of the bathhouse, which will carry moisture through the pipe system into the sewer system. Pipes must be laid below the frost line with a slope of 3 centimeters per meter. You can also use surface trenches with a depth of up to half a meter, the walls of which are lined with clay.

The option for arranging a drainage system largely depends on the volume of water and, of course, material capabilities. However, you need to understand that there is a risk of icing when using a surface gutter. This situation can lead to uncontrolled flow at the ground surface.

If water leaves the bathhouse using a drain, the slopes in the floor must be carefully calculated. If the floors are filled with cement, then drainage is not a particular problem, since modern systems The bottom drain will drain the required volume using pipes.

Another element is the sewer well, which has several options. If there is no drain well, then it is necessary to build a separate system for the bathhouse. In this case, a size of 1 cubic meter is sufficient.

Digging a well will not be much of a problem. To prevent it from crumbling during operation, it is necessary to lay out the walls with brick or cinder block. Many owners use car tires. For better filtration To remove moisture from the wells, it is necessary to install additional horizontal channels.

Bathroom floor installation

First of all, under the future floor it is necessary to cut off the living layer along with the turf. If a bathhouse is being built on a summer cottage, the land should not be removed, since it can be used on the site in the future. The soil must be cut to a depth of 15 centimeters. After leveling the surface, you can begin to work.

The best material for the floor in a bathhouse is a wooden board. The flooring should not be made higher than the level of the foundation, but strong lowering is also unacceptable, since the flooring will absorb moisture from the ground. Under wooden joists you need to install additional brick posts. All frames are covered with tongue and groove boards.

To drain water from the sink, perforations are made in the floor. We must remember that in the bath high humidity, which affects the wood. Because of this, it is necessary to leave gaps between the boards that will allow the material to move without further deformation.

Another option for flooring is a dirt floor. To do this, you need to use fatty clay that will not allow water to pass through. The water drainage system can be made from gutters. To avoid getting your feet dirty on clay, install wooden gratings. In this case, it is worth paying special attention to the efficiency of drainage, since stagnant water may cause an unpleasant odor.

As in other buildings, the floor can be made of concrete. This will facilitate the installation of communication systems and increase the service life.

Building bath walls with your own hands

Once the previous steps have been completed, you can begin building the walls. A wide range of materials can be used for this. In the standard view, a bathhouse is a wooden structure, but nowadays it can be created from brick, concrete or rubble stone.

There are standards for wall thickness made from different materials. The thickness of concrete or brick for walls should be 51 centimeters (two bricks). Using rubble stone, these indicators increase to 75 centimeters. As for wood, a thickness of 20 centimeters is sufficient.

When using wood as a building material for the walls of a bathhouse, it is necessary to carry out preparations. The main thing is that the logs are well dried and sanded. It is better not to use material damaged by insects or rot.

Of course, using concrete or brick, there are no such problems, but the structure itself will be colder. In addition, constant temperature changes cause condensation to form, which will need to be dealt with. When using wood, moisture is not a problem as it is quickly absorbed into the fibers and released through the pores.

For maximum protection of the log house for a bath, it is necessary to treat it with special antiseptics and fire retardants. It is worth noting that wooden walls cannot be plastered, since moisture will not be removed outside. As a result, rotting of the logs may occur. It is not superfluous to use vapor and waterproofing of the structure.

Choosing material for building bath walls

At the beginning of building a bathhouse from the foundation to the roof with your own hands, a lot of questions arise about what to do and how to do it. One of the main ones is the choice of material for building walls. Today, experienced experts in this industry advise using the following options:

• Profiled timber is one of the most popular and sought-after materials for building a bathhouse. They have a huge number of advantages. The main one is low thermal conductivity. In addition, the timber has an attractive appearance and gives clear and neat lines to the building. When choosing a profiled beam, you need to wait some time for the material to shrink, after which the log house is professionally caulked.

• Glued laminated timber is perfect for a bathhouse because it has a smooth surface and does not require additional finishing work. Unlike profiled timber, this material does not require additional time for shrinkage. Because of this, the bathhouse can be used immediately after all work is completed. When using laminated veneer lumber, the walls retain heat well, and the material is not subject to rotting. It is worth noting that it is highly resistant to chemicals and rodents. The only drawback is high price, but he will be able to adequately justify his quality in practice.

• Quite often planed timber is used for bathhouse walls. This is, indeed, a high-quality and affordable material that combines excellent thermal and sound insulation properties of the room.

• To build a classic Russian bathhouse, most owners use logs. Of course, a log structure has its own subtleties during construction that must be observed. One of the features is maintaining the straightness of the fibers. Bends in wood fibers are an accurate sign of poor quality material. In addition, the service life depends on this indicator. After constructing walls from logs, it is necessary to caulk gaps and cracks.

• To create not only a high-quality, but also an attractive building, rounded logs are often used in the construction of bathhouses. The material is reliable and very durable. The disadvantage is the duration of shrinkage, which is one year. Only after waiting for final shrinkage can you continue finishing work and laying communication systems.

• One of the economical options is to use a frame. This perfect solution, since the structure itself will be light in weight, which in turn will save on the foundation. However, the main advantage is the speed of construction. If technology is followed, such structures have excellent characteristics and can last a very long time.

• For maximum safety and durability of the bathhouse, brick is used as a wall material. This is a modern and affordable material that is widely used in all types of construction. To prevent the bathhouse from being cold, it is worth making the walls two bricks thick.

• Today, the cheapest option for building walls in bathhouses is cinder block. This material also allows you to quickly and easily complete construction.

• Aerated concrete is modern and of high quality. Due to its excellent resistance to moisture, the structure will last a very long time. At the same time, the thermal conductivity of aerated concrete is very low.

Despite the abundance of various materials, for building a bathhouse with your own hands, bursa and gas blocks were preferred. Because of this, it is necessary to consider in more detail the features and characteristics of these building materials.

Features and advantages of aerated concrete baths:

1. The blocks are relatively light in weight, which significantly reduces the pressure of the finished structure on the foundation.
2. Perfectly protects the room from winds and frost.
3. The porous structure allows moisture to escape.
4. Quick and easy installation work.
5. Construction does not require the use of specialized tools or equipment.

Advantages of timber in the construction of bathhouse walls:

1. The material does not require additional finishing. With personal initiative, you can carry out simple manipulations to improve appearance buildings.
2. The timber is easy to install and does not require the use of complex technologies.
3. Using this material, there is no need for additional insulation.
4. Timber is a durable and environmentally friendly material.

Technology for laying beams for bath walls

A do-it-yourself bathhouse from the foundation to the roof will last a very long time if you adhere to the technology of laying beams. This material is placed tightly against the pins along the entire perimeter of the constructed foundation. To strengthen the structure, holes with a diameter of 25 millimeters are made in the timber. At the ends, cut-outs are made for grooves or tenons. Insulation materials are placed where the elements are connected to each other.

Professionals recommend using larch beams for the lower rows. This wood is practically resistant to rotting and can withstand temperature changes well. After this, you can use material from any type of wood. Before you start building walls, you need to prepare blanks that will fit geometric parameters future bathhouse. After that they are collected in boxes.

In parallel with the construction of walls, it is necessary to insert window openings and door blocks. You also need to remember that the places where the beams are connected to each other should not be very tight. The resulting gaps are filled with insulation.

The order of laying the beams

• The second wreath is laid on the first beam, which rests on the foundation. After this they are done through holes in the upper one, the lower one is drilled halfway.

• After this, the top beam is removed. Dowels are driven into the holes made, the length of which should be one and a half times the height of the beam.

• Before applying the next row, tow is applied along the entire length. Only after this can the next beams be placed and the dowel driven in.

• IN mandatory it is necessary to cut out the dowel. Its height should be more than 2 centimeters. This will allow you to firmly fix the bars and avoid lifting in the future.

If you decide to use a different material to build walls in the bathhouse, then the technology is the same as for conventional construction. At the same time, do not forget about door and window openings. In the steam room, it would be important to install glass blocks that effectively withstand high temperatures, moisture and transmit light perfectly.

Bathhouse ceiling and roof

Only dry wood is used as a material for covering the bathhouse. These can be boards, slabs or plates. The final choice depends on whether the attic will be used in the future or not. If you plan to use this space only as thermal insulation for a bathhouse, then you can safely use a slab. This will save money. But if you plan to use the attic for your needs, you need to use quality materials that can withstand the weight of a person or property stored there.

The face of the ceiling requires sanding to create a more beautiful appearance. If plastering is planned in the future, then this procedure is not carried out.

As for the attic side of the ceiling, it should be covered with roofing felt or roofing felt. As insulation, you can use furnace slag or fill it with earth, the layer of which should be 20 centimeters. Before filling the soil, it is necessary to sift it to remove the roots or seeds of plants. You can also use adobe as insulation for the attic of a bathhouse. This is a layer of straw with clay. This option is very common, as it will allow the clay to trap vapors and prevent fire.

The roof of the bathhouse itself can be made of various materials, namely: slate, roofing felt or tiles. To create a colorful look, use reeds or straw. Such options can emphasize the individuality and peculiarity of the structure. When constructing a roof, it is necessary to provide an overhang of at least 50 centimeters. It is also worth taking care of effective attic ventilation. Before heating the bathhouse, the ventilation must be closed.

Doors in the bathhouse

Bathhouse doors can be made with dowels with your own hands; this will require boards 4-5 centimeters thick. If financially possible, you can buy ready-made structures. In any case, it is necessary to take into account that exposure to steam will increase their size. Because of this, it is necessary to maintain a technological gap so that there are no problems with opening in the future.

The doors of the steam room should have a width and height of 70x170 centimeters. If desired, they can be higher. The disadvantage of a high doorway is that the heat that has accumulated at the top of the room escapes when they are opened. To avoid drafts in a heated room, it is necessary to make the threshold quite high, from 15 centimeters. Despite the slight discomfort, it avoids the unpleasant cold that runs down your legs.

Windows in the bathhouse

Like any other buildings, the bathhouse must have windows, the total area of ​​which must be at least 10% of the total floor area. By adhering to such standards, you will receive sufficient daylight. In addition, it will help fight mold and mildew that will dry out when exposed to sunlight.

Given the rather cool climate of Russia, windows must be located at a height of 80 centimeters above the floor. If you plan to place two window frames side by side, you should leave a partition half a meter wide. When installing adjacent frames, a gap of 15 centimeters is required.

As you know, glass actively transfers heat from the building. To reduce these losses, it is worth using designs with two or three glasses. For maximum tightness, the gaps formed between the frame and the window are sealed with tow or similar insulating material.

As for the size and geometry of the windows in the bathhouse, they can be made at the request of the owner. There are no strict criteria in this aspect.

Installation of a stove in a bathhouse

A do-it-yourself bathhouse from the foundation to the roof cannot exist without a special stove, which will produce heat. Their configurations can be very diverse.

The most optimal and effective option for the bath there is a stone stove. When creating it, it is necessary to carefully bandage each seam on the masonry, and the seams themselves are made as thin as possible. For construction, baked and heat-resistant bricks are used. Lower level sauna stove should be located 10 centimeters above floor level.

At the request of the owner, the firebox can be located in the washing room itself or on the side of the dressing room. The latter option is more convenient because the waiting room is drier. Despite all this, three sides of the stove should be led into the washing room, which will significantly increase heat transfer. It is also worth leaving a gap of 25 centimeters from the walls of the building. This will allow the room to heat up faster.

Design features of a sauna stove

Don’t think that building a stove yourself is very difficult. The design of the stoves may differ slightly from each other, but they are still made according to the same principle.

The entire heating structure is installed on a soil foundation. For maximum strength and safety, a layer of crushed stone or rubble is placed under the stove, and the gaps are filled with sand. Next, they create the foundation for the furnace, and it must have a flat surface.

To lay out the firebox, burnt brick is used, and a sand-clay mortar with a small proportion of cement is used as a binding material. When making a solution, it is worth adding more sand, since an excessive amount of clay will create cracks and reduce viscosity. In addition to the firebox, a ash pan is laid out for draft purposes, which is located below. To be effective, it must have an area half as large as the firebox itself.

Frames and doors for the stove must be purchased in the store, since you can make them yourself similar designs problematic.

The back of the stove should be covered with a sheet of high-quality metal with a thickness of 10 millimeters. To increase heat transfer efficiency, it is better to use cast iron over the entire length and width of the stove. This is what will happen work surface, which will give off heat. A chimney hole with a diameter of 150 millimeters is cut out in the center of the sheet. An afterburner with a height of 70 centimeters is installed in it. A pipe with a diameter of 30 centimeters is suitable for this production. This chamber is necessary for extinguishing sparks and afterburning gases.

The entire structure of the afterburner and heater is covered with 5 mm steel. As for the heater, it is filled 1/3 with stones. It should have one door installed on the washing side, and the second one opens into the steam room. A steel pipe is used to remove smoke from the heater. All gaps between the furnace structure and the pipe are sealed with mortar.

A tank for heating water is installed near the afterburner system. Its volume should be within one hundred liters. It can have a wide variety of geometric shapes. The main thing is that the bottom is in contact with the stove tiles.

A variety of types of wood can be used to fire a stove in a bathhouse. It is worth noting that conifers produce a large amount of resins. When using oak you will get a lot of heat and a minimum of soot. You can use coal or gas, but you shouldn't, because they don't have the same spirit at all.

A similar design of a sauna stove produces light steam and low wood consumption. When the tank is full, the water can heat up to 90°C. These are the most optimal indicators for a Russian bath.

Interior and interior decoration of the bathhouse

A do-it-yourself bathhouse from the foundation to the roof in the original Russian style should be finished with high-quality boards with a minimum content of resinous substances. The best option for arranging the interior space are materials from aspen, linden and birch. You can also use cedar. Pine can only be used after special treatment.

If financially possible, you can not limit yourself to the flora of the temperate zone. For creating unique interior Tropical tree species can be used in the bath. Mahogany looks enchanting in a bathhouse. Recently, the abashi tree, which the indigenous people of Africa use to make kitchen utensils, has gained great popularity among our compatriots.

When making the interior lining of a bathhouse, it is customary to place the boards vertically, with careful adjustment to each other. The walls inside are not painted to avoid the release of harmful substances when high temperatures. In addition, painting will reduce the vapor permeability of the material. In the steam room itself, walls up to a height of one meter can be covered with modern glazed tiles. This makes it easy to wash the most contaminated areas.

The floor and ceiling of the premises must be covered with skirting boards along the entire perimeter. The floor plinth must be waterproof with a height of at least 10 centimeters. It is installed in such a way that the bottom row of sheathing covers it. This installation technology allows water flowing from the walls not to fall behind the baseboard.

As for the floor covering, it should also be wooden, but without insulation. This is explained by the fact that water constantly gets on it, and the insulation system will not allow moisture to be effectively removed. To facilitate the cleaning process in the bathhouse, especially in the steam room, the floor is covered with ceramic tiles. In this case, it is necessary to maintain slopes up to the drain hole. If used sewer system, then the siphon is installed in the floor. It will eliminate unpleasant odors from sewer pipes.

The humidity and temperature in the bathhouse varies greatly; therefore, it is necessary to carefully select the material for the doors. The best option is laminated wood, which practically does not change its size due to changes in humidity. As for windows, to minimize heat loss it is worth using modern thermally efficient double-glazed windows.

If someone tells you that he is absolutely indifferent to the bathhouse, do not believe it. In order to convince such a person, it is enough to take him to a bathhouse built with his own hands. Having steamed, he will definitely say that he has always loved to steam. In our country there are a lot of people who are waiting for the weekend to go to the bathhouse with friends to relax.

Now you know how to build a bathhouse from the foundation to the roof with your own hands. Of course, there is a little more wisdom and tricks than is described in this article. Still, you got an idea of ​​the stages of building a bathhouse with your own hands. May you have an easy trip and good health.

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