Gluing tiles to the ceiling: surface preparation and work procedure. Different ways to glue ceiling tiles

Glue ceiling tiles made of polystyrene foam can be done in different ways: parallel to the walls, diagonally (diamond), snake and in a checkerboard pattern. You can start gluing from the center of the room, from the chandelier or from any wall. If the ceiling is whitewashed, then it is better to remove it before fixing the cladding, otherwise the tiles may fall off over time.

Types of tiles

Plastic

It's durable and quality material having low level environmental friendliness Plastic tiles washes well and can be cleaned different methods. It is not used in rooms with a lot of sunlight, since the plastic fades quickly.

Extruded

This is a dense tile with a smooth surface without much relief. The thickness does not exceed 3 mm. Eat different colors, with or without patterns, including imitation marble and natural wood.

Made from foamed polystyrene, cannot be painted due to poor adhesion of paint to the surface. It is easy to stick on the ceiling, and maintenance is also easy. It costs expensive.

From foam plastic

Another name is stamped or PVC. It has a loose structure. Due to the grainy and porous surface, it quickly gets dirty and the color becomes dull. In order to preserve its original appearance for a long time, its surface is painted, preferably with acrylic dispersion compositions.

Thickness foam tiles 0.6-0.8 cm. The pattern is pressed with a press. It is necessary to glue carefully, since due to its loose structure it breaks easily. It is difficult to trim, it quickly deteriorates and becomes translucent. Due to the amount of waste, it is purchased with a large supply. It's inexpensive.

Injection

Made from polystyrene foam baked in a certain form. Has a pattern, interesting texture, average cost and the same quality. Popular due to the creation of a seamless plane. This is a non-flammable and environmentally friendly cladding with good sound insulation and moisture resistance. Available in white only and must be painted after installation.

By edge type

• With straight edge without seam.
• With clear edges between each fragment.
• With a wavy edge.

According to the drawing

• Geometric print.
• Floral pattern.
• Lace motif.

• Imitation of stucco.
• Sharp lines.
• With a smooth surface without any pattern or design.

Preparing the ceiling and tiles

The tiles should be glued to the ceiling only after they have been cleaned of any contaminants. It is necessary to go through each copy and put aside those with chips, crooked edges and other defects. They also appear when gluing, so the material is purchased with a margin of at least 10%. If construction material was outdoors, and the temperature difference with the room is large, wait until the material heats up. It is also unpacked in advance, and not before installation.

Pasting is carried out only on the prepared surface. Remove with a spatula or punch old paint, wallpaper, plaster and any other unnecessary layer.

It cannot be fixed to a whitewashed ceiling; the whitewash must first be thoroughly washed off.

The next stage is the correction of defects remaining after cleaning the surface. Cracks, bulges and irregularities are eliminated with putty. It erases defects of any complexity. 12 hours after puttying, the surface is primed. The primer is applied in several layers, each layer is given time to dry. The primer is used to increase adhesion to the ceiling, the surface of which becomes uniform.

If on the surface high-quality whitewash, is well fixed and does not peel off, then there is no need to clean it. The primer is applied over the whitewash. This option is only suitable for urgent cosmetic repairs. Tiles from a whitewashed surface will quickly fall off or become deformed.

The priming process differs for different substrates:

• concrete is primed with concrete contact;
• gypsum is treated with a deep-penetrating primer;
• at high humidity, the base is primed with a composition with antiseptic additives to prevent the development of fungus.

What to glue on: effective brands

In order for the tile to last for a long time, it is better to glue it on special compounds. For example, adhesives such as “Titan” and its analogues.

1. Moment. Sets in 3 s. After applying the glue to the surface, you need to allow time to dry slightly in the air, only after that the tile is pressed to the ceiling. Has high consumption. High price.
2. . Universal polymer adhesive. Ceiling plinths and tiles, linoleum, and parquet are glued onto it. After drying, a transparent adhesive seam is formed, preserving appearance material. It takes longer to set than the previous one, so during gluing the tile fragments need to be held longer.
3. Eco-net. Analogue of Titan. More a long period coupling allows you to correct the position of the glued fragment. The polymerization process takes a long time.
4. Liquid nails (for example,). They fix well and are used for reconstruction of ceilings.
5. PVA based adhesive mastic. It has a pasty texture. Quickly, easily fixes and applies, does not require long-term holding of the tile.

Tiles can be glued to flat surfaces using adhesives and mastics. In other cases, gypsum putty is used. If the differences in height do not exceed 5 mm, Knauf adhesive is used. A more crooked ceiling is pre-leveled.

Calculation of the number of tiles

• Calculate the ceiling area using the standard formula. First measure the length of the walls with a tape measure. Area of ​​rectangular or square room equal to its length multiplied by its width.
• At non-standard sizes The area of ​​the room is divided into fragments of the correct shape, the area of ​​each of them is calculated and the resulting values ​​are summed up.
• When gluing tiles standard size 50x50 cm please note that on square meter ceilings will require 4 pieces. For sizes 40x40, 60x60, 30x70, 30x60 or for square panels, the area is calculated individually: the length of the fragment is multiplied by the width.
• A simplified version of the calculation: the area of ​​the ceiling is divided by the area of ​​one tile. The result represents the number of tiles in pieces that will be used to finish the ceiling, provided that all fragments are of high quality, without defects and there is no waste during installation.
• Add another 10% of the reserve to the received quantity, especially if standard scheme styling

Different methods of gluing

There are different gluing methods. The pattern is selected before purchasing the material in order to choose the right type and pattern.

Parallel to the walls

Classic pattern of gluing along the walls (in rows). Work begins from the center of the room. This the best way seamless styling. Gluing the ceiling with tiles according to the standard pattern creates a smooth and consistent surface.

There is a second option for classic installation, when in each row the fragment is shifted by half its length. This will make the ceiling look airy and light.

Diagonally (diamond)

Laying diagonally or in a diamond pattern is universal because it is suitable for rooms of any shape and size. Initially, diagonal markings are made on the ceiling so that later installation can be done along it. You don't have to draw the lines, but use thread to mark them.

The disadvantage of the method is a large number of waste.

To diagonal laying gave the ceiling a presentable appearance, and the seams were almost invisible:

• pasting should begin from the center of the room or from the chandelier, making sure that all fragments are laid along the diagonal markings;
• the first fragment is located at an angle of 45 °C to each wall;
• the next fragment is applied closely to the first element;
• all subsequent tiles are evenly joined until the entire area is sealed.

Checkerboard

According to this scheme, tiles of two colors are glued. Typically, highly contrasting colors are chosen. Work starts from the center of the room. The edges of each part are laid parallel to the walls. Fragments are pasted one by one to create the effect chessboard. Pasting according to this scheme hides surface defects.

Snake

The scheme involves gluing tiles of two similar or contrasting colors. Work begins from the center of the room, laying it in a spiral so that visually it looks like a graphic snake. To simplify the task, you can first glue a plain tile and then paint it with water-based paint.

Where to start

• From the center. At correct placement It is almost impossible to glue the entire ceiling incorrectly with the first fragment.
• From the chandelier. If it is already hanging, this is the best reference point to start with. Four tiles are docked to the wires coming out of the ceiling, their corners are trimmed, the remaining fragments are glued to the sides of the first four.
• From the wall opposite to the entrance. The method is used by beginners. Flaw - the last row often have to be trimmed.

Ceiling markings

To determine the center of the ceiling, two threads are stretched diagonally between opposite corners. A mark is placed at their intersection. This is the center of the room.

When there is already a chandelier, installation is carried out from it, and no additional marking is required. But if installation is done diagonally, the threads are pulled from the corners of the room to lighting fixture in the center.

Glue application method

The adhesive composition is applied to the corners of the tile and more in the central part. Small drops are placed on the edges with glue. If with reverse side There are recesses, glue is poured into them. A little adhesive is applied to the ceiling.

When using instant glue, do not wait for it to dry, but immediately fix the tiles to the ceiling.

How to glue ceiling tiles

The principle of gluing depends on the surface of the ceiling.

On a flat surface

• Titan glue is applied to the back of the tile.
• The fragment is installed on Right place and press lightly until the adhesive composition first hardens.
• Each subsequent element fits as closely as possible to the previous one, matching the pattern.
• Make sure that the side parts fit tightly to the surface.
• For gluing to difficult areas, the fragments are cut and trimmed.

If the gap between two tiles is too large, do not move them with your hands. Take wooden plank, attach it to the side of the tile and correct the position.

On an uneven ceiling

For gluing on uneven ceiling Instead of ordinary glue, a putty composition or glue is used for plasterboard structures. The mixtures are first diluted to a dough consistency. Application begins from the area where the height difference is smallest. The application area should be equal to the size of approximately four tiles. This is done before the initial adhesion of the adhesive composition.

When the first four elements are laid, their surface is leveled to a long building level. The tool is placed on top and lightly pressed down on uneven areas. tiled surface to give it a level position. Next, four more tiles are glued and the process of leveling relative to the first masonry is repeated.

It is allowed to increase the thickness of the adhesive seam, but not more than 5 mm.

Cleaning and caulking

After work, excess adhesive mixture is immediately cleaned off, since after complete drying it is almost impossible to remove the residue. During installation, you should have a container with clean water and a cloth for wiping off the glue.

The seams between the side edges of the tiles are sealed with white or colored putty. rubber spatula. Excesses are immediately eliminated. Instead of putty, you can use acrylic sealant. It adheres well to the surface and masks small defects.

How much does it cost to work with masters?

The price of gluing per m2 depends on the quality of surface preparation, laying scheme, and starts from 210 rubles.

A simple and inexpensive ceiling covering is foam tiles. It is quite aesthetically attractive, and its light weight allows for very quick installation without outside help. Today we will tell you how to properly glue ceiling tiles, as well as how to avoid mistakes when working with them.

Which ceiling tile to choose?

According to the manufacturing method, such plates are divided into 3 types:

Pressed: produced by stamping; The disadvantages include high porosity due to which they, absorbing dust, quickly lose decorative properties, and low mechanical strength - foam plastic is very inconvenient to cut, as it crumbles at the slightest pressure; however, its cost is also low - you will need to pay only 15-30 rubles per sq.m;

Injection: manufactured under high pressure, have a clear, clearly defined pattern, are less fragile, so cutting them is much easier; however, they cost 2-3 times more than pressed ones;

Extruded: durable; have a smaller thickness, the surface is perfectly smooth, without the slightest grain; during production, sheets painted or coated with a special film are pressed; they are often used to imitate natural materials: stone or wood; costs on average 70-90 rubles. per sq. m.; sticker can be applied in rooms with high humidity; They can easily be wiped with a cloth or washed with soapy water.

Tiles made by injection are less porous and the details are better drawn.

Based on the type of coating, foam tiles can be divided into:

Laminated with a water-repellent coating;

Seamless: to create a surface without joints;

Mirror: covered with reflective film.

The ceiling slab can have a variety of reliefs or be decorated with floral or geometric patterns. Even coffered structures are made from foam plastic (ceilings with recesses imitating cross beams). Standard products have a square shape with a side length of 0.3-0.5 m, but rectangular or design options curvilinear shape.

Designer seamless pattern

Advice. For the bathroom and kitchen, choose products with a laminated surface - this will make caring for them much easier.

Surface preparation

The surface on which the tiles are glued can be anything: from fiberboard to concrete. The most important thing is that the ceiling is level, otherwise it will not look aesthetically pleasing. Leveling it with cement and even gypsum mortar is much more difficult than working with walls. Therefore, if the ceilings have significant differences, it is much easier (and cheaper) to use drywall.

It is better to prime a porous surface (concrete, plaster or wood) before applying the sticker to improve adhesion. It is imperative to cover the surface painted with lime or emulsion with a layer of primer. In this case, the tile will be fixed perfectly and will definitely not move away or fall off completely.

Advice. Pressed foam products are produced mainly in white. If you want to get a ceiling to match the walls, it can be painted with latex, acrylic paint or emulsion. It is not recommended to paint injection tiles - on a flat surface smooth surface Brush marks will be visible.

Painting ceiling tiles

Main stages of work

1. You will need a few tools for the job: a sharp knife, a cord for marking. You should also purchase glue and the tile itself. You shouldn’t save too much on it - the sizes of the cheapest products may not match, so it will be difficult to achieve a perfect fit.

2. Liquid flowable adhesives are not suitable for porous ceiling tiles - you need to purchase a solution with a consistency similar to putty. It is better to purchase a special adhesive composition. The setting time of other types of adhesive may vary, and you will have to stand with your hands up for quite a long time to wait for the tile to finally stick. Special tile adhesive does not take that long to dry - you will have to press it to the ceiling for no more than 3-5 minutes.

Adhesive for porous foam products

3. It is not difficult to calculate the required number of tiles - to find the area of ​​the surface to be pasted in square meters, you need to multiply the length of the ceiling by the width. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is the loss of material due to trimming. Therefore, you need to purchase it with a margin of 10-15%.

4. Strange as it may seem, even if the tiles are not attached diagonally, but parallel to the walls, gluing must begin from the center of the ceiling. Only in this case will the tile seam be located exactly in the center and the ceiling will look perfectly symmetrical.

Ways to arrange tiles

5. The most difficult thing is to find the location of the first slab. We pull a thick thread or cord tightly from the corners so as to get two diagonals. The place where they intersect will be our center. Next, from this point we draw a perpendicular line to one and the other wall. That is, we divided the ceiling into 4 parts. This division requires that we place the next tiles from the center strictly parallel to the intended lines.

6. Tiles next to the chandelier can be placed in two ways: remove the lamp completely and make a hole in the foam for the wire. To get a neat hole, it is best to use a utility knife.

7. The second method is even simpler - four tiles are placed around the lamp at once. Where the wires exit, their corners are cut off.

Tile sticker near the lamp

8. The foam ceiling rosette is installed in exactly the same way. We remove the chandelier and make a hole in it that is suitable in size.

Ceilings with a decorative rosette will look more aesthetically pleasing

9. There is no point in covering the entire surface with glue - it is applied only on the sides of the tile and in the center of it.

Glue application diagram

10. You should not press too hard on the foam - it will leave unattractive dents from your fingers.

11. The tiles near the walls will most likely have to be trimmed. To prevent it from crumbling, it is better to work with a very sharp knife.

12. After the sticker, the edge of the ceiling is decorated ceiling skirting boards texture similar to tiles.

Advice. Foam products are excellent sound insulators. After applying them, the noise from the apartments above you will be heard less.

Our ceiling is ready

Video: How to properly glue ceiling tiles

Polystyrene foam tiles are inexpensive, can be installed quickly and easily, and are one of the most available materials for finishing the ceiling. Before starting work, you need to understand what types of ceiling tiles are, the adhesive mixture for them and layout options. The gluing composition is not suitable for everyone; it is important that it does not contain components that destroy the finish. Let's consider the types of mixtures, methods of preparing the surface and laying out the decor in more detail.

Types of Adhesive for Foam Ceiling Tiles

When choosing what to glue foam ceiling tiles with, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics of the composition:

• strength and reliability of adhesion of the decor to the base;
• fast setting;
• increased adhesion is the property of adhesion of the mixture to the base;
• viscosity;
• safety for decor and people;
• thickness of the application layer;
• installation features - yes adhesive mixtures, requiring application not only to the tile, but also to the surface, this increases consumption.

Advice! If there are minor plane irregularities or defects, select an adhesive that can be applied thick and thin layer, it’s easier to hide bumps and depressions, scratches.

The type of base is also taken into account - there are mixtures for wooden, concrete, and plastered ceilings. But what should not be in the composition are solvents such as acetone, toluene, white spirit - they melt the foam.

Advice! If the glue takes longer than 25-30 seconds to dry, it is better not to use it, as it is difficult to stand for a long time with your arms raised. But drying faster than 5 seconds is also not suitable - there will be no opportunity to straighten the tiles to eliminate unevenness in the layout.

The easiest way is to choose glue and primer from the same manufacturer or based on the same basic components; the compositions adhere better. The following compositions are well suited for gluing: PVA, universal adhesives without caustic solvents, liquid nails, melt. You can attach the decor to acrylic putty, then you won’t have to seal the seams.

Advice! Home craftsmen often make do with compositions like “Moment”. You need to know that after drying through thin slabs it is seen yellow spots glue, so it is better to choose a white mixture without pigments.

Preparatory work before gluing

The ceiling plane must be properly prepared so that the tiles lie without air bubbles. The decor is mounted on a flat base base, cleaned of old finishes. If the ceilings are covered with plasterboard or plywood before finishing, such a base is also prepared.

What should be done:

1. Wash off the whitewash from the ceiling, remove wallpaper, paint or old decor. If there are areas with falling plaster, remove everything and clean it until concrete base. Whitewash is washed off with water, just like water-based paint, the wallpaper is soaked, then peeled off, and for paint you can use a spatula or special washes.
2. Assess the evenness of the surface. If necessary, fill cracks and cracks with putty, remove bumps with sandpaper or a grinder. Now you need to prime the surface and treat it with an antiseptic - this will help protect the surface from mold. The primer must have deep penetration; you can immediately use it with antiseptic additives. Apply 2-3 times, allowing the previous layer to dry before applying the next one.
3. After priming, a smooth surface can be prepared for cladding, and an uneven surface can be puttied. Starting and finishing putty will be useful. The starting one is applied to particularly deep defects up to 0.4 cm, and if chips and scratches are less than 0.2 cm, the finishing one is enough.

Advice! Finishing putty applied in a layer of no more than 0.2 cm. When using a starting composition, the finishing composition is always applied and is applied after the base base with a layer of starting putty has completely dried.

1. Prime the ceilings 2 times, allowing the first layer to dry thoroughly, and only then apply the second, and you can finish the ceilings with tiles.

Advice! If there is mold on the base surface, the areas are cleaned down to the concrete base and treated with a special antiseptic or a solution of copper sulfate with lime.

Materials and tools

When figuring out how to hang ceiling tiles, you need to not only buy in advance necessary materials, but also take care of the tools.

The master will need the following set:

• tape measure and pencil;
• primer;
• antiseptic mixture;
• putty knife;
• putty (if you have to level the ceilings);
• primer roller;
• tile adhesive;
• the tile itself is foam;
• knife for cutting elements;
• adhesive composition;
• sealant for sealing seams and joints.

The work will be carried out on the ceiling, so a durable table will not hurt. Taking a stepladder is not the best the best option, tiles, glue and other available materials and tools cannot be laid out on it. The craftsman will also need protective equipment, remover or water for old decor, and a ruler - it is more convenient to use it to measure the pieces of tile that need to be cut.

Decor layout options and schemes

How to glue the tiles to the ceiling is up to the owner himself; there are several layout schemes:

1. Along long walls. This is the simplest option that does not require any special calculations. The layout is carried out in even rows, but the ideal geometry of the room is required - if there are uneven surfaces, the finishing will only emphasize the defects. You need to start work from the central point of the ceiling, and lay tiles along the edges, trimmed to the right size.
2. Rhombus. This installation well levels out the irregular geometry of the room, but requires preliminary calculations and markings.
3. Diagonal. The equipment will require high flow rate, but it will help make the room unusual and hide the difference in the length of the walls. The way to properly glue diagonal ceiling tiles is simple - find the center of the room by drawing diagonal lines from the corners from the center point and start gluing.

Advice! Sometimes walls vary greatly in length, so it is better to find the center of the wall and lay out the first elements at the intersection of the lines.

1. With offset seams. This is how ceilings are covered only with decor without a pattern, and each subsequent element is shifted by half the width of the previous one - laid out in rows with precise control of the width of the shift.

We figured out how to glue ceiling tiles in different ways. Let's look at the markup features and other nuances.

Marking the base ceiling

Before gluing the tiles to the ceiling, the base surface must be marked. Be sure to pay attention to the size of the decor; for example, let’s look at how to stick tiles on the ceiling and make markings for elements with a side of 500 mm. You need to start marking from the center of the ceiling if the layout pattern is diagonal or diamond-shaped from the wall - provided that the laying will be done in even rows or with the seam offset.

Advice! When marking from the wall, craftsmen advise choosing the wall opposite the window.

If there is a chandelier in the room, then the hook on the ceiling points exactly to the center of the plane; if not, pull the fishing line along the diagonal corners, and the center will be at the intersection point. You need to find the center of the wall, measure each wall, mark the center, stretch a fishing line or paint cord - at the intersection there will be the desired point. The option of finding the center of the wall is suitable for rooms with broken geometry, and diagonal stretching of cords is carried out in rooms with smooth walls.

Advice! If a solid element will be laid out in the center of the ceiling, and not the corners of the tile, half the size of the tile is laid out from the center point in both directions, mark the zones. Within the measurement limits, glue the first decorative element.

Pasting technique

Let's look at how to glue foam ceiling tiles. Advice from professionals will help you cope with the job:

• The option for applying the adhesive composition depends on the type of mixture. If this acrylic putty or cement mortar, it is better to use spot application so as not to create weight on the base. Using liquid nails, non-aggressive adhesive compositions, you can apply a path along the entire perimeter, to the central point, and then level the mixture over the entire surface of the decorative part using a spatula.
• Pasting is carried out at behind closed doors and windows. There should be no drafts so as not to disrupt the drying process of the mixture - this can affect the bonding strength.
• Read the ingredients and how to apply it. There are adhesives that you need to spread, then attach the tiles to the ceiling, peel them off and let the composition dry a little. Manufacturers also produce glue that must be applied to the back of the decor and the base surface.
• Apply glue to the tile, wait 1-2 minutes for setting and glue the element to the ceiling at a pre-marked point.
• Take the next part, attach it to the previous one without glue, visually assess the evenness and you can apply glue. Evenness must be checked in the first row for each element, and selectively in subsequent rows. Thus, the owner gets the opportunity to quickly adjust the layout if a slight shift occurs somewhere.

After the entire plane is decorated, trimmed elements are laid along the edges, you can seal the seams with sealant, applying the composition in a thin layer to prevent thickening. Finishing touch– decoration of the joint between the ceiling and the wall with skirting boards, baguettes or decorative slats.

Advice! If the decor is laid out correctly, then laying the baseboard will not cause problems. For ceilings covered with gypsum plasterboard, baguettes of any type are selected, and for surfaces covered with tiles, it is better to select lightweight foam parts so as not to weigh down the decorative coating.

The tiles can be painted, painted or varnished, the main thing is that the parts are firmly and securely fastened, technology finishing selected according to the requirements and taste of the owner. For example, in rooms with high level humidity, the decor is painted to protect it from water, and in open areas with aggressive exposure to wind and sun, the finish can be varnished with waterproof varnish without aggressive components or solvents in the composition.

Foam ceiling tiles - fast and inexpensive way finishing. There is no need to involve specialists or have special skills or tools. Almost anyone can do the job, including alone. And the service life of such coating is more than 15 years. In this article we will tell you step by step how to glue tiles to the ceiling with your own hands. We will also consider what to do if the surface is uneven.

Types of ceiling tiles

Ceiling tiles come with edging or smooth edges. The latter is called seamless, since the joints are correct installation invisible. The ceiling looks like it has been painted or covered with chalk whitewash.

They produce three types of seamless ceiling tiles, the effect of which is obtained in different ways:

1. With curly edges (zigzag or wavy). The tiles fit tightly together. In addition, jagged lines are less noticeable to the human eye than straight lines.
2. With a calibrated edge, that is, with minimal dimensional errors and identical angles. The seams are extremely thin.
3. With decorative filling. There is a relief pattern on the surface (floral, geometric or abstract), which distracts attention from the joints and makes them invisible.

Panels with a seam have an uneven edge (with a chamfer different shapes and size). Therefore, after gluing they remain visible joints that have to be sealed.

Most often, foam ceiling tiles are produced in the shape of a square with a side of 50 cm. But there are other formats, including rectangular ones:

• 30x60;
• 30x70;
• 40x40;
• 40x70;
• 60x60.

Ceiling panels also differ in material, production technology and surface type. Each has its pros and cons, but this does not affect the installation process.

Layout options

Ceiling tiles can be glued in several ways. The choice depends on personal preference, the size of the room and the desired effect.

Rows

Classic layout, in which the edges are located parallel to the walls. It is better that the surface is smooth, otherwise the curvature of the partitions is easily noticeable.

The following options are possible:

• glue seamless tiles, resulting in a complete surface;
• take elements of two colors and arrange them in a checkerboard pattern (this will hide the unevenness of the ceiling);
• lay out other patterns or geometric shapes.

With shift

This option is similar to the previous one. White or colored tiles are glued offset to half the element. The room looks airier and lighter. But more precise markings will be needed.

Diagonally

With this layout, the seams are less visible. But gluing becomes more difficult, as more calculations and adjustments are required. The number of trimmings increases. Mostly products of the same color are used.

Methods for gluing ceiling tiles

Installation of elements takes place in in a certain order. In this article we will consider options for laying in rows, and diagonal and diamond-shaped are described in another. The edges are placed parallel to the walls. The ceiling is first marked for ceiling tiles.

Snake

The first square is glued at the central point, the second - to the right of it. Then lay two panels below. Installation continues in a spiral, from the already attached elements to the edges of the ceiling.

Often the exact number of slabs does not fit in size. Then you need to trim those of them that are adjacent to the walls. For this they use construction knife. The distance is first measured with a ruler.

Crisscross

The first four tiles are laid so that one of the corners falls into the center of the room. It turns out to be a square. The following are glued in parallel rows from the middle towards opposite walls. Then across the previous ones. IN last resort fill the remaining areas.

Rows from the corner

This option is most often used in Not large rooms so that there are fewer scraps. The first tile is placed in the corner, the next ones are laid from it along the walls. And then - parallel to those already glued.

How to glue ceiling tiles

The following requirements apply to the composition of the adhesive:

• high adhesion;
• white or transparent color (otherwise it will show through, especially through thin tiles);
• absence of solvents in the composition;
• versatility (must glue different materials);
• high drying speed;
• viscosity.

Glue selection

These criteria are suitable:

• universal polymer types;
• polyvinyl acetate;
• liquid Nails;
• special mastics for ceiling tiles.

What exactly is best to glue on depends on the characteristics of the overlap. Let us consider the properties of the compositions in more detail.

Universal adhesives include such adhesives as “Titan”, “Master”, “Elitans”, “Dragon”, etc. Unfortunately, you have to hold the decor until the composition “sets” (up to several tens of seconds, depending on the brand ). When decorating the ceiling, this is inconvenient, since you have to stand with your hands raised. Of similar products, “Moment” is faster, but it must be kept in the air after application, and not pressed on the tile immediately.

Polyvinyl acetate options (“PVA”, “Bustilat”) are used only on well-leveled surfaces. The consumption is higher than other products, since the glue is applied not only to the tiles, but also to the ceiling. But there is no sharp unpleasant smell.

Liquid nails are applied with a construction gun. The composition is distributed in doses. To glue tiles on flat surfaces, a small amount is enough: in the corners and in the center. If necessary, glue is applied to the entire area and in a thicker layer. This way you can hide small imperfections in the ceiling. Any brand that does not contain solvents is suitable, for example, “Moment Montage” or “Titan”.

Mastics are sold as a paste in small buckets. These products are specially designed to set quickly so that the panels do not need to be held down.

Is it possible to glue ceiling tiles with putty?

At large differences surfaces have to be leveled. IN in this case combine two stages into one:

1. Apply a thin layer of putty to a small area.
2. Flatten.
3. Press the foam panel down.

The finishing composition is used more often. But if the overlap is very uneven, they take the starting one.

Calculation of the required amount of tiles and adhesive

To determine how much material is needed, you first need to know the area of ​​the ceiling. If the room has a simple shape, this is not difficult: multiply the length by the width. For more complex ones, with protrusions, niches, etc., use this method:

1. Draw a diagram indicating the dimensions.
2. Divided into rectangles and squares.
3. Calculate the areas of the parts.
4. Add up all square meters.

The approximate consumption of glue and putty is indicated on the packaging. But when leveling, when a thicker layer is used, it increases.

The approximate quantity per square meter would be:

• "Titan" - 50 g;
• “Moment” - 200-400 g;
• “PVA” - 200-300 g;
• "Bustilat" - 100-200 g.

1. Calculate the area of ​​one tile. To do this, multiply its length by its width.
2. Divide the total ceiling area by the resulting number.
3. Add about 10-20% (depending on the material and shape of the room). This will create a reserve in case some parts break or are cut unevenly.
4. Round the result to a whole number.

As an example, let's calculate how many panels with a side of 50 cm are required for a room of 20 m²:

1. The area of ​​one tile is 250 cm², or 0.25 m².
2. We divide the ceiling area by it: 20/0.25=80. This is the number of elements without stock.
3. Add 10%. 80+8=88. So many panels need to be purchased for repairs.

List of tools and materials

In addition to tiles and glue, you will need:

• ladder;
• construction knife (cutting panels);
• roulette;
• laser level;
• pencil;
• bucket for diluting solutions;
• putty;
• primer;
• application brush;
• putty knife;
• a soft cloth to remove dirt from the front side;
• painting (beating) cord;
• glue gun (if liquid nails are selected);
• spatula (for mastic or putty);
• brush (for other types);
• sealant for sealing seams;
• ceiling plinth made of polystyrene.

Preparing the ceiling for gluing

Before starting work, it is necessary to remove everything that does not adhere well. Whitewash, paint or crumbling plaster must be cleaned off with a spatula or washed off with water. Otherwise in further coverage will fall off along with the tile.

Cracks and noticeable depressions must be filled with putty. But perfect alignment not required.

Attention! It is advisable to wait some time before continuing the repair so that the layer is completely dry (from 12 hours to several days). Manufacturer's recommendations are indicated on the packaging.

Do I need to prime the ceiling before gluing it?

This is necessary, especially if the base is quite loose. The product strengthens the surface and reduces glue consumption. It is better to choose a primer:

• deep penetration;
• with an antiseptic effect (to prevent fungus from developing).

You must wait until the composition is completely dry.

Where to start gluing tiles

In this matter, they focus on both convenience and visual effect. Let's consider possible ways in detail. In all cases, before starting work, the ceiling must be marked for ceiling tiles.

From the center of the room

The first panel is placed so that the corner is located at the midpoint. Three more are glued on. The result is a square from which further installation takes place (snake or crosswise).

From the center tile

The first element is glued exactly in the middle of the room. The center of the tile and the center of the room coincide. To do this, when marking, lay down half the length of the element in the direction of the walls.

From the chandelier

The main lighting is not always located in the middle of the ceiling, especially in rooms with complex geometry. You can start installation from the chandelier. Then the initial plates are oriented towards the attachment point. The corners around it are cut off. In the future, this place will be covered with a chandelier plate.

From the corner

The previous methods are more often used in large rooms - halls, living rooms. And in small rooms or corridors it is not necessary to start from the center. The first tile can also be placed in the corner.

For this method it is required smooth walls. It is advisable to start the sticker from the window, not from the door. Then, when entering the room, the cut slabs will not be visible.

Ceiling markings

Before gluing, do this:

1. Fix the beating cord in one of the corners.
2. Pull it diagonally towards the opposite side and release it.
3. Mark the second diagonal in the same way.
4. The point of their intersection is the center of the room. If necessary, move it to the place where the chandelier is attached.
5. From this point, using a painting cord, draw perpendiculars to the walls.
6. Focusing on them, draw squares with sides equal to length panels.

How to properly glue ceiling tiles

First you need to prepare the material. Open the packages and inspect each item. All should be the same size and color, without burrs or sagging around the edges. If necessary, defects are corrected by cutting with a knife.

To glue the tiles, do the following:

1. The square is coated with glue.
2. Place it in place, lightly smooth it with your hand and hold it until it sets.
3. The next part is joined tightly, the edges are aligned and also pressed.
4. Excess glue is immediately removed from the polystyrene foam with a damp sponge or soft cloth.
5. Repeat with the remaining slabs until the entire ceiling is covered. At the same time, they check with the lines that were marked at the previous stage.
6. If necessary, the fragments adjacent to the walls are trimmed with a knife.
7. The gaps along the edges are covered with plinth.

You need to press one square tightly against the other. If there is a large gap left, a wooden plank or beam is placed against the free edge and moved. It is easy to break the material with your hands.

How to apply adhesive to ceiling tiles

If the surface of the ceiling is smooth, apply the composition as follows:

1. Distribute along the perimeter at a distance of about a centimeter from the edge (so that the excess does not crawl out into the seams and stain the visible surface).
2. Make several strokes in the center or diagonally (for reliability).
3. Wait 1-2 minutes until the product thickens, then apply the tile.

A ceiling made of porous material (concrete) will require a thicker layer, as some will be absorbed.

How to glue tiles near a chandelier

It is necessary to leave space to hang the lamp, for this:

1. The first four tiles have one corner cut out. In this case, the total area of ​​the site should be sufficient for fastening, but smaller than the size of the plate.
2. Lay the fragments according to the markings with a central point in the place where the chandelier will hang.
3. Then continue gluing as usual.

If installation is carried out from the central fragment, a hole of the required size is cut out in it.

How to seal seams and cracks between ceiling tiles

Even after the most careful gluing, gaps remain, since the edges of the tiles are not perfectly smooth and may have defects. To seal them, use sealant, which is sold in cans with an extended nozzle. The tip can easily get into tile joints.

The composition should be white so as not to contrast with the finish. It is best to choose silicone - waterproof.

You can use leftover putty or mastic, but only white.

The nuances of gluing tiles to an uneven ceiling

In such cases use gypsum putty. The installation goes like this:

1. Dilute the mixture according to the instructions on the package.
2. Apply enough to the ceiling to cover four tiles. The solution should be laid in a layer no thicker than 3-5 mm. This amount is easy to level out, and the composition does not have time to set.
3. Apply with a notched trowel, forming grooves.
4. Apply cladding elements. Align the edges.
5. Pressing building level(preferably half a meter) or as a rule, level the surface.
6. Repeat previous steps. As a result, all fragments should be in the same plane (or without differences noticeable to the eye).

Features of gluing seamless tiles

With this finish, the ceiling looks as if it has been whitewashed or painted. To avoid noticeable transitions, choose panels without sides or chamfers with straight or curved edges. Tiles are chosen of the same thickness or with a pattern in the center.

If you want to get a coating without seams general method installation is the same. But there are some nuances:

1. The surface must be carefully leveled, otherwise transitions will be noticeable.
2. Tiles are glued with minimum distance from each other.
3. When laying, follow the arrows on the reverse side. They must go in the same direction.
4. If you paint the ceiling, the seams will become even more invisible.

Is it possible to glue ceiling tiles in the bathroom?

The room is characterized by high humidity, so not any finish is suitable. Only extruded or injection panels are suitable. This coverage:

• resistant to moisture;
• has heat and sound insulation qualities;
• easy to clean;
• not susceptible to fungus.

For additional protection, the coating is painted with compounds intended for use in bathrooms (for example, water-based emulsion).

Ceiling tile care

Over time, dust accumulates on the tiles, especially in the recesses of the pattern. In order for the ceiling to maintain its appearance, regular cleaning is required. Dry is needed once a month. A vacuum cleaner or a fluffy brush will come in handy. Wet is done every two months, but only for laminated or painted surfaces. Care for the ceiling using a sponge or cloth.

Water accumulates in the depressions. It must be carefully removed, for example, with paper napkins or other easily absorbent material. If this is not done, streaks will ruin the appearance of the ceiling.

Do not use products containing abrasives or chemically aggressive substances. A soap solution or dishwashing liquid will do.

If your neighbors cause a flood, you must immediately clean the ceiling. Otherwise, rust stains will not be removed.

Repair and restoration of ceiling tiles

Over time, the coating turns yellow (especially in the kitchen) and the surface has to be painted. It's easy to do it yourself by preparing:

• paint that can withstand wet cleaning and does not have a strong odor (water-based, latex, acrylic);
• foam roller;
• brush for corners and other hard-to-reach places.

No need to choose White color. But bright hues preferably, a dark ceiling will appear lower. Cool shades make the room more spacious, and warm shades make the room more comfortable. It is important to consider the overall design of the room.

Thus, using foam tiles you can quickly and inexpensively finish the ceiling. The work is easy to do alone, and the variety of products will allow you to choose suitable option for any room.

Today there are many options for finishing the ceiling. The choice of finishing materials depends only on the taste of the owner and the amount of funds allocated for repairs. If planned a budget option finishing, then gluing foam tiles is best choice. Firstly, the material itself is inexpensive, and secondly, the installation can be carried out independently, thereby saving on paying for the services of builders.

Made from polystyrene foam, this is an excellent option for finishing the ceiling. Modern manufacturers offer various tile options - with a relief pattern and smooth, white or tinted, regular or special, allowing you to create seamless coatings. An important advantage of this finishing material is its easy installation. Let's look at how to properly glue tiles to the ceiling without resorting to the services of professional builders.

Selection of materials and preparation of tools

When purchasing materials, it is important to pay attention not only to the appearance of the tiles, but also to their quality.

We buy quality material

Here are the signs of good ceiling tiles:

• Each tile has clear geometric dimensions and even right angles. If the corners are dented or rounded, then it will be impossible to achieve normal joining.
• If you examine the side sections of the tiles, there should be no signs of crumbling.. High quality tiles has small, equal-sized grains of polystyrene foam.
• If the tile has a relief, then it should be smooth and clear over the entire area.

In addition to the tiles, you will also need to purchase and, best of all, choose one that is designed specifically for polystyrene foam boards.

Calculation of the number of tiles

On initial stage To solve the problem, you need to decide on the amount of material.

This is quite easy to do.

• We measure the length and width of the room.
• We multiply the resulting values, resulting in the ceiling area.
• We look at the factory packaging of the tiles to see what coverage area it is designed for.
• We divide the ceiling area by the area of ​​the tiles contained in one package, we get required number packages that will need to be purchased.

Advice! Since solving the problem is unlikely to be possible without the need to cut the tiles, therefore the calculated value should be increased by 10%.

Tool preparation

To carry out the work you should prepare:

• A convenient stepladder.
• Level.
• Pencil.
• Square.
• Meter ruler.
• Leg-split.
• A construction or stationery knife with break-off blades.

Installation

Let's look at how to properly stick tiles, dividing the work into several stages.

Ceiling preparation

Before gluing tiles to the ceiling, you should prepare the surface.

• If there is an old coating on the ceiling, it must be removed.

Advice! If the ceiling was previously finished with the same finishing material, then the question may arise, how to properly tear off the ceiling tiles? It must be said that the withdrawal process old tiles simple, but quite labor-intensive; the old coating should be removed by lifting the tiles with a spatula and cleaning off the remaining glue on the ceiling.

• Next, you should inspect the surface freed from coatings to identify defects. If the ceilings have cracks, potholes or other irregularities, they should be puttied.
• The leveled surface is treated with a primer suitable for the flooring material. This operation will ensure better adhesion of the glue to the ceiling slab.

Advice! It is especially important to prime wooden floors or a ceiling covered with plywood. Otherwise, the tile will hold up much worse.

Marking

Before laying tiles, you should mark the ceiling.

First you need to decide on the method of arrangement of the tiles; they can be laid either parallel to the wall (direct method) or diagonally (see). As a rule, installation begins either from the center of the room or from the location of the chandelier.

To make the markings you will need twine.

• The end of the twine is secured with tape in the far corner of the room.
• The second end of this cord is fixed at the opposite end of the room.
• The second piece of twine is secured in the same way, as a result the room is divided diagonally. In this case, a right angle should form at the intersection of the cords.
• Markings are applied with a pencil along the fixed cords; the intersection of the lines will become the place where the first tiles will be glued.

Advice! Most often, the chandelier is not located exactly in the center of the room, so the markings have to be done slightly differently. To do this, draw two lines parallel to the walls and perpendicular to each other through the mounting point of the chandelier. In the right angles formed by these lines, we construct bisectors (that is, we divide them in half) and draw these lines until they intersect with the walls. Thus, we have a marking according to which the tiles will be glued.

Gluing tiles

Let's look at how to correctly stick tiles according to the markings made.

The work is carried out like this:

• Glue is applied in dots to the back of the tile.

Advice! The adhesive composition should be applied around the perimeter of the tile and in its center.

• The first tile is laid at the intersection of the marking lines so that its edges exactly coincide with the drawn lines.
• Next, from the first tile, we begin to form two perpendicular rows, aligning the edges of the tiles with the marking lines.
• The next rows of tiles are glued, starting from the first; when performing the work, you should ensure that the sides are aligned.
• At the junctions of the ceiling and the wall, it is often necessary to glue cut tiles, since the size of the rooms is not always a multiple of the size of the tiles.

Let's look at how to lay tiles correctly if the diagonal gluing method is chosen.

Marking with this method is done in the same way, but the placement of the first tile will be different. In this case, when installing tiles with marking lines, you need to align not the edges, but the corners. Of course, this type of ceiling tile sticker is a more complex option and requires a certain skill.

• The tiles, which allow you to create seamless coatings, have special markings with triangular arrows on the back side. They indicate the orientation of the tiles relative to each other. In this case, the tiles should be glued to the ceiling so that all the arrows point in the same direction.
• Often the sticker on the ceiling tiles is made from the place where the chandelier is installed. In order to lay the tiles at the fastener, you have to cut off the corners of four adjacent tiles. Subsequently, the cut site will be covered with a chandelier cap.
• Before applying adhesive to tiles, you should read the instructions for it. The fact is that some adhesive compositions require exposure after application; this requirement cannot be neglected.
• The final touch when installing ceiling tiles is gluing the baseboards around the perimeter of the room and installing a socket for the chandelier. After this, the ceiling finishing will be completely finished.

conclusions

So, polystyrene ceiling tiles are practical option finishing the ceiling, which is quite easy to do with your own hands. You can see how to lay tiles on the ceiling on construction websites, where slab layout diagrams are presented and advice on how to carry out the work is given.

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