Sooner or later, any person is faced with toilet repair in one way or another. You can entrust this work to professionals, or you can save money and do it yourself. In this article we will analyze in detail what work is ahead and in what sequence it is best to carry it out.

Any enterprise begins with a comparison of desires and capabilities. If finances allow, then the boundaries of desires are very conditional. We will talk about decent toilet repairs with our own hands on a minimal budget. This is the foundation of the further story.

Planning the process itself has a clear sequence:

1. Complete cleaning of the premises;
2. Replacement of plumbing communications and electrical wiring;
3. Preparation of surfaces for finishing work;
4. Finish:
5. Paul;
6. Sten;
7. Ceiling.
8. Installation of plumbing.

Point zero should be set to “Design development and procurement of materials.” But this can create confusion. Therefore, describing each stage, we will justify the advantages of certain materials. For objectivity, we took the cost of all finishing elements from YandexMarket.

Cleaning the premises

Complete renovation, declares absolute cleaning of the room. There should be nothing left in it except the pipes of the common riser.

The sequence must also be observed. First, they knock off the tiles from the walls. Depending on the quality of the connection, this can be done with a hammer drill in the “chisel” mode or with a simple ax, using it as a spatula. They go along bare walls with a drill with a brush attachment.

Explanation: it is quite possible to lay new tiles over old flooring. But in this case, it will subtract 3-5 cm from the height of the room.

Only after this the whitewash is washed off from the ceiling. At the same time, wash away dust from the walls and floor.

Plumbing equipment is dismantled in the most last resort. To do this, turn off the water supply to the toilet tank, unscrew the fastener and remove the toilet drain outlet from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is very old, then you will have to break it out, since the drain was sealed with cement mortar. Login sewer pipe cleaned of pieces of sanitary ware and cement.

Place on the hole until work is completed. plastic bag and tied with a rope.

Explanation: Dismantling the toilet allows you to create a solid floor covering, without painstaking cutting and fitting of tiles. In addition, the toilet can be easily replaced later.

Replacement of communications and wiring

Replacing a water riser yourself is never done in practice. The reason is the need to shut off the water supply in the entire riser, and this is the prerogative of plumbers from the service organization. But more important factor– time and guarantees.

Replacing riser pipes with your own hands without professional skills will require leaving residents without water for the whole day. It is unlikely that your neighbors will tolerate this. Specialists will cope with this task much faster.

The quality of the work performed has a deeper implication. If the riser is replaced by specialists from the housing office, upon an official request, then in the event of leaks or any emergency, the responsibility will fall on the installers. Otherwise, you will have to pay for repairs to flooded apartments.

But you have the right to choose the material for the riser within your apartment. The most affordable and high-quality material is polypropylene pipes fiberglass reinforced. They are suitable for both hot and cold water.

You can do the wiring around the apartment yourself. Most best material for this purpose - corrugated stainless steel. The price is more expensive than a metal-plastic pipe or polypropylene pipes, but then you get:

• Savings on corners;
• Aesthetic appearance;
• Virtually unlimited service life;
• Extremely easy installation.

The cost of 1 meter of corrugated stainless steel pipe ø 16 mm is 92 rubles. An important condition for long-term service is the use of brass fittings.

Electrical wiring will require modernization if you want to install several lamps in a miniature toilet. And this happens extremely rarely.

Very a good decision There will be installation of a tubular energy-saving lamp above the entrance, parallel to the doorway. In this situation, you don’t have to touch the wiring.

Preparing surfaces for finishing

As a result of this point, all surfaces should be smooth and even. The easiest thing to do is with the floor. For leveling you will need to use a quick-drying self-leveling screed. For 1m2, with a thickness of 1 cm, 13-14 kg of dry mixture will be required. For a toilet, 1 bag is enough, weighing 25 kg and costing 400 rubles.

The floors are first primed. We recommend immediately priming the walls and ceiling.. The mixture is diluted according to the instructions on the package and poured. To avoid making too thick a layer, spread it out a little with a spatula. The complete hardening process takes 24 hours.

Leveling the walls in the toilet is a relative task. The fact is that in such a small area, littered walls are extremely rare. Therefore, if the walls of the toilet are concrete, then a primer is enough, and if they are plastered brick, then putty will be required.

For putty you need:

• Working spatula 30 cm long;
• Auxiliary spatula 5 cm long;
• Putty mixture 20 kg (Weber: Vetonit 310 r);
• Drill with attachment and container.

The setting time of the putty is cement based≈ 90-120 min. Dilute 2-3 kg of dry mixture, following the instructions on the package. Then, using a short spatula, apply a small amount of solution to the long spatula. Applying the working tool at an angle of 20-30˚, spread the mixture along the wall from bottom to top. Consistently apply new portions of the mixture.

By adjusting the angle between the wall and the spatula, you can achieve different effects. With an acute angle, cracks and depressions are filled, with an angle close to straight, the applied composition is leveled.

Excess material spreading to the edges of the tool is collected with a short spatula and applied again to a long spatula.

Don’t try to achieve perfection in one pass smooth surface. After treating all the walls and waiting 3-4 hours, you can go over the problem areas again.

Please pay attention Special attention corners. Sagging and rounding are not allowed on them. You should not achieve geometric accuracy in all corners, they will close finishing materials, but the excess should be removed.

After a day, the walls can be sanded to obtain a high-quality coating for further work.

The final chord of this stage is priming the prepared walls and floor.

There is almost always a slab on the ceiling, so other than priming, no preparation is required.

Finishing work

Floors

The specifics of the room limits the choice of flooring. Of all the options, only self-leveling floors and tile.

Self-leveling floors look attractive, but they have two huge drawbacks:

• High price;
• A very complex work process.

If you use them, it is better in a place where they are visible. In the toilet, they will be hidden. So, there is only one option left - tiles.

Considering that the toilet has been dismantled and the base has been prepared, laying tiles in the toilet with your own hands is an extremely easy process. Choosing tiles is a very sensitive issue. We have no right to advise on color and design, but we will help you figure it out with sizes.

The dimensions of a standard toilet in an apartment are 0.8 by 1.2 m. For ease of work, try to find a tile that fits into these dimensions without waste, for example 40 x 30 or 40 x 40. In this case, you will need to glue only 8 or 6 elements . Please note that the smaller the number of elements in the mosaic, the easier the work is. And for the price, this choice will be quite acceptable. For example, from the manufacturer CERROL, in the Nero (Black) series, 1 m 2 tiles measuring 40x40 will cost 1,304 rubles. Enough for the toilet and there will be practically no waste left.

There is another option for light finishing of the floor in the toilet - mosaic tiles. These are ceramic tiles measuring 2 x 2 cm, glued to a backing. By choosing the size of the sheet, you can cover the entire area in 2-3 steps. But this option, subsequently, will not manifest itself in the best way.

The fact is that small elements of the floor covering visually reduce the size of the toilet.

Tile adhesive "Unis 2000" in a 5-kilogram package will help you cope with the task perfectly. Its price is 130 rubles. Consumption ≈ 4-5 kg/m2.

You will also need:

• Notched trowel;
• Crosses;
• Laser level;
• Square.

The thickness of the crosses is no more than 1-2 mm. In a small room large seams will not look aesthetically pleasing.

The method of laying tiles is direct. The toilet is too small a room to put a beautiful pattern in it.

Work progress:

Dissolve the glue according to the instructions on the package. If you followed our advice and chose a large tile, then knead the entire package. While the mixture is swelling (4-5 minutes), adjust the laser level so that the horizontal beam is projected at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. TIP: it is most convenient to place it on a horizontal sewer pipe. Everyone has laser levels The head is self-leveling, so even if there is a slight tilt, the beam will still show the true horizon.

The floors are being swept. Apply the finished adhesive onto the tiles with a notched trowel. Please note: the glue must be spread over the entire surface. This will not only increase the adhesion area, but will also allow you to drill holes for attaching the toilet in the future without fear of splitting the tiles. The thickness of the adhesive composition should not exceed the thickness of the tile! Place the tile in place. It is better to start gluing from the wall opposite to the entrance. Move the glued element with an amplitude of 2-3 mm.

By successively applying a square to each corner of the tile, compare the level at which the laser beam is projected. If necessary, straighten the tiles.

Glue the second tile in the same way, level it and then insert the crosses. There should be 2 crosses on each side of the tile.

With proper planning, you will only need to trim the tiles once to get around the riser pipes. To do this, it is best to use a grinder with a cutting disc. ATTENTION: the disk must be specialized, without radial cuts.

Use a tape measure to measure the distance you need to cut. Most likely, this will be a corner sector. Set aside the resulting dimensions on the front surface of the tile.

Tip: stick on tiles masking tape, it is more convenient to mark on it.

Place the tiles on a flat surface and secure. When working with an angle grinder, be sure to use glasses!

You need to cut through, so there should be a soft material(wooden block or two pieces of plasterboard).

The cut edge can be sanded.

If there are gaps of 1-2 cm, then distribute them evenly so that they fall between the tiles and the wall. Subsequently, they will be covered with wall finishing materials.

According to the diagram outlined, all floor tiles are glued. After a day, you can walk on it and at this time they begin to grout the joints. Optimal material for filling gaps between tiles – silicone sealant. It is easy to work with, and after drying it produces an elastic seam with impeccable hygienic characteristics.

To work, you only need white silicone sealant in a tube and a lint-free cloth.

Cut off the spout of the tube so that the thickness of the silicone that comes out is minimal. Insert the container of sealant into the gun and apply even pressure along one of the seams. Excess silicone protruding outward is removed with a slightly moistened cloth. The gaps must be filled flush.

The silicone should cure within 3-5 hours. Then you should lay cardboard on the floor, and you can start finishing the walls.

Walls

Wall decoration is possible in two materials: ceramic tile or wall panels. In principle, we do not consider painting and whitewashing, and other materials have low moisture resistance.

Tile traditional version specifically for the toilet. It looks presentable and lasts a very long time. But there are points in which it is inferior to plastic panels. In particular, PVC panels:

• Cheaper;
• Glue easier, faster, do not require professional skills;
• Models with 3D effect look gorgeous;
• You can easily change and “refresh” the appearance;

There is one more nuance that can influence your choice. In the toilet, you will need to close the water riser. If you use wall panels, you can easily and preliminary preparation to cover this unsightly need with them.

In addition to everything, you can improve the appearance if you choose wall panels 40 cm wide, just the size of the tiles. All finishing will take on the appearance of a finished composition.

For fixation wall panels Liquid nails are required. We recommend using “Moment Installation”.

To work you will need:

• Bathroom wall panels;
• Liquid nails with a gun;
• Hacksaw for metal;
• Construction knife;
• Tape measure and marker.

The panels begin to be glued from the place where they fit entirely, without cutting to width. Measure the height and mark the required size on the panel. When sawing off excess metal with a hacksaw, make sure that the lamella does not bend or break at the very end of the cut.

The glue is applied in continuous strips along the entire length, the diameter of the emerging roller is 4-5 mm. There should be a distance of 5-7 cm between each strip of glue. Immediately place the panel in place and move it slightly from side to side to spread the glue. But immediately remove this panel and give it a shutter speed of 3-4 minutes. This is required to adhesive composition interacted with oxygen in the air.

After curing, the panel is glued. To control the vertical position of each plank, use a plumb line. Press the lamella firmly for 30-40 seconds and move it a little

All panels are fixed in a similar way. But to bypass the water riser, proceed as follows.

Explanation: Between the front and back sides of each plank there are stiffening ribs. If you cut the back side of the panel along the entire length along these edges, then it can be bent and the rounded areas can be pasted over.

In the place where the riser is located, on the back side of the panel the back sheet is cut off along with the stiffening ribs. Additionally, the lower part where the sewer pipe exits is trimmed. To make a neat exit water pipes, they are unscrewed from the shut-off valve on the riser. And a hole is made on the panel according to the size of the outlet itself. Such an operation can only be carried out if you work with wide panels!

A horizontal sewer pipe can be covered with scraps of wall panels, leaving a hole for connecting the toilet.

This option for decorating the walls in the toilet will avoid the use end strips. After all, the edges near the entrance will be covered with a door casing.

Instead of a plinth, glue a strip. In appearance, this is the same baseboard for a bathtub, only narrow.

Ceiling

TO decorative finishing ceiling in the toilet, when the walls and floor are already decorated, you should proceed as the final chord that will complete the entire composition. If there are large dark tiles on the floor and dark panels on the walls, then the ceiling should be white and gold.

There are two options, this slatted ceiling or ceiling PVC panels. In terms of appearance of the finished coating, they will practically not differ. But the slatted ceiling will “steal” at least 7 cm from the height, due to the fastening system. And its installation will take an order of magnitude longer.

With PVC ceiling panels, the whole process will take 40-50 minutes.

Considering that they will look the same, a sane person will choose PVC ceiling panels.

Using the example of two-section strips with gold, produced by Olympia, we will describe the installation process. The width of the lamellas is 24 cm, the length is 3 m. The price of one plank is 180 rubles. 2 panels are needed for the ceiling in the toilet.

They are glued to the same “Moment Montage”. The lamellas are adjusted in length and glued, starting from the entrance, according to the technology described above.

Around the box covering the riser, the panels are cut with a construction knife.

Plumbing installation

Installation of plumbing consists of two stages:

1. Installation of a toilet with a tank;
2. Connection to the system.

The option with a wall-hung toilet is not even accepted for consideration. Its miniature size is just a marketing ploy to increase sales and create another group of products. After all, the fastening system and tank wall hung toilet, will require you to allocate at least 20 cm from behind. In other words, the dimensions of the toilet will actually become 0.8 x 1 m.

Therefore, we will install a regular toilet. To attach it, you will need to drill 2 or 4 holes in the floor. In this case, you first need to drill the tiles. This can be done with a diamond-coated tubular drill by switching the hammer drill to the “drilling” mode.

Having passed the tiles, switch the hammer drill to the “chipping” mode and place the drill.

Dowels are driven into the holes using a mallet and the toilet is secured through plastic washers.

TIP: Apply silicone caulk to the base of the toilet. After pressing it to the floor, excess silicone will be squeezed out and must be removed immediately. But such sealing will not allow water to penetrate under the toilet itself during wet cleaning.

To connect the toilet drain hole to the entrance to the sewer pipe, a corrugated adapter is used.

Water supply hoses to the tank, in modern models, have a sealing rubber gasket and do not require winding. Additionally, plastic lugs are integrated into the hose heads, allowing you to do without an adjustable wrench.



Now I want to save on everything, including repairs.

And if, having entered your own toilet, you finally understand that it requires at least cosmetic repairs, it is not necessary to hire builders.

You can gather your strength and renovate the toilet with your own hands. And if you have no idea where to start, the best option would be to visit relatives, close friends and neighbors to put together a picture for yourself of what your new toilet should be like. At the same time, pay more attention to technologies, which were used during the repair.

Now on the building materials market there is a bunch of various primers and lubricants that improve. Therefore, you can easily choose the material that suits your price.

If there are cracks and dents in the walls, they must first be repaired. cement solution. After it has completely dried, the walls and ceiling must be carefully primed.

Pipe installation

Of course, you can replace the entire riser, but for this it is better to call specialist and come to an agreement with your neighbors.

If replacing the riser is not part of your plans, you can stop at the section of pipeline passing through your apartment.

However, if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to leave pipe replacement for later. It should also be taken into account that they can be hide in a special decorative box or cabinet.

Leveling the floor

Firstly, they are cheaper. A Secondly, have excellent sound insulation, durability, and are very easy to install.

Initially, you need to decide how much to buy.

Depending on the perimeter of the toilet and the presence of shelves and drawers, calculate sq. m. occupied by panels. You also need to purchase skirting boards and metal profiles to which they will be attached. cladding panels. It is advisable not to buy very thin plastic as it is less durable. Give preference to materials with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

So, initially you need to create frame from metal siding with the obligatory use of a plumb line. In this case, it is advisable to screw the profiles to the ceiling so that it does not bend over time.

Then we begin gather directly plastic panels, placing them on dowels. This must be done very carefully, since plastic, even despite its thickness, is quite fragile.

After finishing the work, it is advisable to make corner joints miss silicone glue to prevent moisture from getting in there. Skirting boards located on top can also be glued using silicone, while the bottom ones are screwed with dowels.

It looks great, is comfortable and easy to care for.

Repairing a toilet with wallpaper

This the most budget from existing options. For repairs you will definitely need washable wallpaper good quality based on polypropylene or polyester.

The walls must be fine prepared, there should be no traces of paint or plaster on them, because your new wallpaper may simply fall off.

Surfaces are treated with waterproofing and primer to avoid the appearance of fungus and better surface adhesion. Also, when using a primer, you will save a little on glue.

Wallpaper is glued using plumb line and carefully ironing the seams. The advantage of such a repair is its budget And simplicity wallpapering. However, such a toilet will not be very practical, and after a few years you will again have to take up construction tools.

So it's not that difficult or expensive to do. You can always choose building materials according to your wallet and preferences. What is absolutely not worth saving on is plumbing And tile. But in general, a little willpower, ingenuity and desire, and in a couple of days you will boast that you have mastered a new profession as a builder.

August 5, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

If you decide to master finishing technologies, then repairing a toilet with your own hands will be an excellent training for you: small area premises will significantly reduce time and financial costs, and at the same time you will be able to practice performing a variety of operations.

Of course, the renovation and design of a toilet can be implemented according to a variety of schemes, but in this article I will give the most common option, which takes into account preparation for finishing, tiling of the floor and walls, and installation suspended ceiling, and installation of plumbing.

Preparatory stage

Preparing the room

So, initially we are dealing with a small room: for example, in series 137 of standard apartments, the dimensions of the toilet are 120x85 cm. Therefore, we need to implement the most compact version design, using materials that are accessible and not too difficult to work with.

When deciding where to start renovating a toilet, it is worth assessing its original condition. And if it becomes obvious that a complete reconstruction is required to bring the room into a decent appearance, first of all we will remove the old finish. For this:

1. We dismantle the toilet by disconnecting it from the sewer riser and water supply, and then removing it from the stand that secures the product to the floor.
2. We inspect the condition of the pipes, and if they require replacement, we dismantle them too.
3. We remove the old finish - tiles, wallpaper, paint, etc. To clean surfaces, we use either a hammer drill or a drill with an attachment in the form of a stiff wire brush.

1. When a complete reconstruction is planned, we also dismantle the old wiring. If the wires are laid in deep grooves, then they do not need to be removed - just turn off the power to the branch and cut the conductors close to the wall.
2. After removal construction waste We treat surfaces with an antiseptic. This will allow us to avoid the appearance of fungi and bacteria after finishing is completed.

Laying communications

At this stage, we need to lay all the communications that are responsible for the functioning of the bathroom. This includes sewer pipes, water supply pipes and electrical wiring.

IN panel house In a typical building, vertical risers with cold and hot water are often located in the toilet. In order not to carry out a complex reconstruction, this is where it is worth laying the distribution unit, hiding all the pipe bends in a special cabinet or box.

When renovating a toilet, I usually do this:

1. First, I lay a sewer pipe connecting the toilet to the riser. Usually this segment does not differ in significant length, so it can be laid with minimum slope towards the drain. I select the pipe for direct connection so that it matches the configuration of the toilet outlet - straight or inclined.
2. At the same stage I lay drain pipes connecting the sewer riser to the bathroom and. I fix the pipes on the wall with clamps, making sure that the slope is maintained at about 2 cm per linear meter.

1. I cut a tee into the cold water supply riser, to which I connect an outlet for cistern. If you plan to install a washbasin in the bathroom (such options are implemented in larger areas), I make two separate outlets with cold and hot water to connect to the mixer. They should be made hidden, so you will have to cut separate grooves for the pipes.

Consider in advance whether you need a boiler. If you need it (even if you don’t plan to install it right now), immediately lay the piping for its installation.

1. I lay the wiring for installing the socket for the water heater in a groove. For lighting along the ceiling, I run a cable in a corrugated plastic channel, which I fix with wire hangers.

1. From wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic, or from metal profile I form a box to mask risers, pipework and other elements. It is worth sheathing it immediately before finishing - this way we will not damage the gypsum board during other work.

Actually, this is where the preparatory operations end. After this we move on to finishing.

Toilet finishing

Ceiling

When thinking about how to renovate a toilet, we first need to approve the order of finishing work.

Masters practice the most different schemes, but I still prefer to move from top to bottom - this minimizes the likelihood of staining or damaging the “finishing” area, and I don’t have to waste time masking already finished surfaces with film, cloth, newspapers, etc.

It is based on these considerations that I prefer to start with ceiling repairs:

1. Along the perimeter of the room in the upper part I beat straight line at a distance of about 50 - 70 mm from the ceiling.

The indentation depends on the dimensions of the recessed luminaires. If you plan to use small lamps, then 40 mm may be enough.

1. Along the line I install on the walls either a starting profile made of galvanized steel or a wooden beam.
2. I attach guides to the ceiling using metal hangers: I also make them either from timber or from a metal profile. All parts are fixed to the load-bearing surfaces using dowels for express installation.
3. After completing work on the frame, I bring the wires to the places where they will be installed.

1. To the profile fixed around the perimeter, I attach a special ceiling plinth with a groove for plastic panels. To attach to wood, I use galvanized staples, which I hammer in using a construction stapler.
2. The most inexpensive, but at the same time practical option- This is a ceiling covering with plastic panels. I cut the PVC lining to size, and then install it on the ceiling: the ends need to be inserted into the grooves of the plinth, and the edges of the locks must be secured to the frame beams using a stapler.

1. In the chosen place I do it in plastic panel a hole through which I bring out the wires to connect the lamp. I usually install the device itself at the very end of the repair, so for lighting a temporary structure is used from an incandescent lamp with a socket taped to the wires with electrical tape.

Walls

After completing the work on the ceiling, I move on to the walls. The best option here there will be tiling: the small area significantly reduces purchasing costs and minimizes labor costs, but the finishing is hygienic and durable.

Sequence of work in in this case will be as follows:

1. I check the walls using a level, and if necessary, I do rough alignment. For high-quality cladding, it is important that differences in plane do not exceed 5 mm per 1 m - anything less can be compensated for by varying the thickness of the adhesive layer.

When leveling, it is advisable to first try to knock down all the protrusions with a hammer drill, and then grind the concrete surfaces. The thing is that plastering surfaces, especially in a room like a bathroom, is difficult, time-consuming and expensive.

1. I treat the walls with an antiseptic primer: it not only improves the adhesion of the adhesive composition, but also prevents the formation of fungal colonies under the tiles.
2. I cover the frame of the box with pipes with moisture-resistant plasterboard.
3. I soak the tiles in water for about 2-3 hours. This trick allows you to significantly improve the adhesion to the glue, which is important, especially if you do not have enough experience and work slowly.

1. I prepare the adhesive mixture by diluting the dry component in cool water. I mix the glue thoroughly using a drill attachment: this needs to be done at least twice so that there are no lumps.

Now let's start with the cladding:

1. I take a level and mark the walls, drawing lines along the bottom edge of each row. I make indents between the rows: the thicker the tile, the wider the seam can be.
2. Using a grater, I apply a layer of glue to the wall. Using the serrated edge of the tool, I form grooves to evenly distribute the composition.
3. It is important not to apply glue to too large an area. Focus on the speed of work: the surface of the adhesive composition should not dry out!
4. According to the markings, I apply the tiles to the wall, press them and level them. Using a spatula, carefully remove any protruding excess glue.
5. To maintain the same thickness of all seams, I install plastic spacer crosses.

Wall tiles are laid in rows, from top to bottom. For getting beautiful drawing You can arrange elements offset - in this case, the tiles in each next row are shifted by 1/2 the width. The accuracy of installation is checked using a level and plumb line; if necessary, the position of the tile is adjusted and adhesive is added/removed.

After finishing the cladding, I give the surfaces 12 hours for the glue to polymerize, and then I grout the seams. Grout is a paste that is used to fill the gaps between the tiles: this way we will not only improve the appearance of the room, but also protect the base from moisture penetration.

When the grout is dry, I have one last, purely cosmetic step: wash the tile cladding and wipe it with a clean, dry cloth. If we were careful enough and promptly removed excess glue and grout from the surface, then this task will not require any significant effort.

Floor

Before I repair the toilet floor with my own hands, I usually assess its condition. In most cases, restoration of the waterproofing layer is required, therefore the first part of the work is floor covering carried out before finishing the walls.

1. To begin with, I once again clean the base from dust and debris and impregnate it with a penetrating primer.
2. Then I apply it with my own hands waterproofing mastic based on bitumen or liquid rubber. This layer protects the ceiling and the rooms underneath from leaks, so it is worth forming a so-called “trough” here - covering not only the floor, but also the walls with waterproofing to a height of about 15 cm.

1. I pour a leveling screed up to 50 mm thick on top of the waterproofing. For filling I use self-leveling compounds with quick hardening: their price is higher than the standard one cement-sand mixture, but they also save work time, and significantly.

1. After the screed has dried (in best case scenario it will take three to four days, at worst, if we saved on materials, we will have to wait two to three weeks) I treat the floor surface with soil.
2. For work I choose only floor tiles: It is both stronger and less slippery. Attempts to use cheaper wall tiles will lead to the fact that after a couple of years the floor will have to be rebuilt.

1. Using a trowel, I apply cement-based tile adhesive to the base. I evenly distribute the adhesive composition over a surface of approximately 1 m2 and begin cladding.
2. I lay the tiles either in rows or alternating them in accordance with the planned pattern, for example, tiling in black and white.
3. As in the case of wall decoration, I maintain the width of the gaps using spacer inserts.

1. After tiling, I let the glue dry, grout the seams, dry the grout, wash and wipe the floor.

Installation and connection of plumbing

The toilet repair itself ends here, but we still have to install the equipment. There are no special difficulties expected here, but you will have to work hard, especially if in addition to the toilet you also need a washstand:

1. We install the toilet on the floor in the selected location, using either a special rubber lining or a wooden board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound.
2. We make marks at the location of the mounting holes, remove the toilet bowl and use a hammer drill to drill sockets to secure the product.

1. We hammer dowels into the sockets, install the toilet in place and fix it anchor bolts. In this case, we either insert the toilet outlet directly into the sewer pipe or connect it to it using a flexible corrugation.

1. We install a tank on top, which we secure to the base with screws and cap nuts.
2. We connect a hose with cold water to the side or bottom of the tank.
3. We place the sink against the wall and mark the mounting points.
4. According to the markings, we drill holes into which, as in the case of the toilet, we hammer plastic dowels.

1. Next, we either attach brackets to the wall on which we install the washbasin, or we fix the sink itself to the base using anchors with cap nuts.
2. We connect a siphon to the sink drain, which we connect with a flexible corrugation to the sewer pipe.
3. We install the mixer, leading to it flexible hoses with cold and hot water.
4. After completing all these manipulations, it will be possible to check the functionality of the system and check for leaks.
5. Then we take the prepared recessed lamps, connect the wires to their terminals and install the lamps in the holes on the ceiling.

Our toilet is ready and ready to use!

Cost of consumables

To answer the question of how much a bathroom renovation will cost, you need to know its area, what materials will be used, and whether we will do the finishing ourselves or turn to specialists. However, even with the most accurate calculations, the estimate tends to increase, so it is worth putting into the budget about 30% more funds than what is calculated.

To make budgeting easier, I advise you to use a table containing approximate prices for materials used in bathroom renovations. Of course, this information is for reference only (prices in online stores were taken as a basis), but it gives a full idea of ​​the order of numbers:

Material	Unit	Cost, rubles
Waterproofing mastic	5 kg	1100 — 1600
Tile adhesive CM 9	25 kg	250 — 450
Grout for tiles	5 kg	600 – 1200
Penetrating primer with antiseptic	5 l	250 — 500
Self-leveling floor mixture	25 kg	280 – 750
Budget tiles for walls	m2	45 — 90
Mid-price wall tiles	m2	250 -500
Ceramic floor tiles	m2	250 – 2500
Acrylic paint for interior works	5 kg	200 – 500
Profile for drywall	panel 3 m	50 — 150
Drywall hanger	PC.	5 — 25
Wooden beam for frame	panel 6 m	80 — 200
PVC lining for ceiling cladding	m2	150 -250
Sewer pipe for external works 110 mm	1 linear m	125 — 200
Sewer pipe for interior work 50 mm	1 linear m	75 — 150
Metal-plastic water pipe 16 mm	1 linear m	70 — 120
Crimping fitting for metal-plastic pipe	PC.	250 — 500
Mixer tap with short spout	PC.	1500 — 2200
Inexpensive washbasin Santeri	PC.	900
Compact toilet Santek	PC.	3100 — 3500

In addition, when calculating how to make repairs in the bathroom, we need to take into account that we will need other little things like fasteners, sealant, gaskets, etc. So the budget margin mentioned above will definitely not be superfluous.

Conclusion

Toilet repair is a kind of testing ground for the skills of a novice builder, finisher, plumber and electrician. By focusing on the recommendations given, tips in the comments and videos in this article, you will be able to lay the foundations of your skills, and in the future successfully cope with much more complex projects.

August 5, 2016

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Repairing a toilet with your own hands is not particularly complex work- combination of temperature and humidity in toilet room rarely goes beyond what is normal for residential premises. You just need to remember that the toilet is an exclusively functional room, and everything in it should be subordinated to a very specific purpose: to ensure the best functioning of the smooth muscles of the excretory organs.

It does not at all follow from this that we will be talking about things that are inconceivable. On the contrary, we will describe how to make an inexpensive toilet renovation, turning it into a cozy, comfortable and peaceful room. Galen and Avicenna also wrote that for the sake of health and longevity, natural needs should be satisfied in a good mood and with pleasure. Modern medicine fully confirms their conclusions.

Repair stages

Step-by-step toilet repair includes next steps works:

1. choosing the type, location and method of installing the toilet;
2. design development;
3. selection and purchase of materials;
4. cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling;
5. laying communications;
6. floor repair;
7. installation of a plumbing cabinet;
8. repair of walls and ceilings;
9. floor finishing;
10. installation of lighting, ventilation, washbasin, urinal, bidet;
11. finishing of walls, bathroom cabinets, ceilings;
12. door replacement.

Repairs that do not involve replacement of plumbing fixtures and complex construction work(cosmetic) is much simpler and will be described in a separate section. Now let’s look at the stages of how to make repairs in the toilet.

Toilet

For this reason, in fact, the toilet was created. When choosing this device, you should first of all think: should you install a wall-hung toilet?

The faucet, washbasin spout and shower diffuser built into the wall are nothing more than a tribute to fashion. Their technical and economic feasibility, to put it mildly, is very, very doubtful: the slightest malfunction is tantamount to a breakthrough, hence the exorbitant high cost of the devices and their reliability by several times less. In some countries building codes They are already outright banned.

But the toilet is a completely different matter. The floor around its pedestal, and especially the nook under the outlet, is difficult to clean, and if you take a smear there and submit it for analysis to the SES... the faint of heart are asked to refrain from viewing.

Under the wall-hung toilet there is a flat, easy-to-clean floor. You can’t make a niche in the wall for it in our typical house - the wall thickness is not enough - but in any toilet the hanging bracket and flush tank are very easily covered with a plumbing cabinet, which does not allow dirt to accumulate in the nooks and crannies. And repairs small toilet in this case, it simultaneously solves another important sanitary and hygienic problem, which will be discussed in its place.

Design

The requirements for toilet design based on the needs of physiology are justified by a huge amount of material from the works of those studying the camps primitive people archaeologists to the latest research in molecular biology. It is based on a simple fact: biological evolution is proceeding at a snail’s pace compared to the development of civilization, and physiologically we are the same as our distant ancestors in skins and with a knotty oak tree in their hook hands.

Without going into details, which are not uninteresting for readers not prone to hypocrisy, but require a lot of space for description, let us summarize:

• Small details, especially colorful ones, are unacceptable: they create a subconscious feeling of anxiety that disrupts bowel function.
• You should also avoid bright, saturated and flashy colors in color scheme; Pastel colors are preferred.
• The overall tone should “cool” from bottom to top, losing at the same time its richness.
• Solid vertical planes that create the impression of open space are also undesirable.
• The walls should be divided vertically into two sections: from the floor to the level of the occupant’s eyes or chin and higher - to the ceiling.
• Dense planes hanging over the head also have a bad effect on physiology.

Note: Pastel colors are also good because the inevitable change in color tone in the toilet (see below) is not so noticeable.

Based on this, a physiologically justified toilet color design looks something like this:

1. The floor is quite dark, yellowish, brownish or grayish.
2. Walls to a height of 90-120 cm (3-4 rows of 30x30cm tiles) are unsaturated red-brown with specks or very light gray, also with specks.
3. The walls above and up to the ceiling are beige, mustard, cream, etc. It can be with a flat relief or a faded blurred pattern.
4. The ceiling is pale blue, pale cream or pearl gray.

Materials

When choosing materials for toilet renovation, you need to consider the following:

• A lot is spilled on the toilet floor in exceptional cases, but what is spilled even in insignificant quantities is saturated with biologically active substances (BAS) and very active chemical compounds.
• A little evaporation into the air in the toilet compared to the bathroom, but most of the evaporation consists of chemically active, strong and unpleasant-smelling substances: ammonia, unsaturated and cyclic hydrocarbons, etc.

Such circumstances impose certain restrictions on the selection of materials:

1. Any wood and products based on it (MDF, laminate) should be discarded - they are porous and organic. The fact that small splashes from a foolish child or a bad guest are immediately absorbed is good only at first glance. In fact, a teak, yew or cork floor that is pleasant to the touch and pleasing to the eye will quickly become a paradise for germs. They do not spray on the ceiling, but the vapors rise primarily to it.
2. Also undesirable are tiles based on ordinary silicates (not white on the inside). Chemically it is neutral, but there are a lot of micropores in it, and it absorbs and retains odors well. You will have to use deodorant more often, but it costs money and is not natural integral part air.
3. Washable PVC wallpaper should be treated with caution due to the filler. It can also absorb volatile compounds. You should buy either certified ones or from a trusted manufacturer.
4. A regular floor screed is also undesirable, even with the addition of a polymer emulsion: its moisture absorption coefficient can reach 0.4% by volume. This is more than good for the bathroom, but in the toilet what gets on the floor is not water with a small admixture of fragrant shampoo.
5. Armstrong suspended ceiling is excluded: it is highly porous and is also made from chemically unstable organic matter - paper production waste.
6. Any paper wallpaper, no matter how they are modified - for the same reason.
7. Any paints with organic pigment and filler: from the most insignificant miasma they very soon turn yellow, gray and take on a completely disgusting appearance.
8. Foam ceiling panels- for the same reason.

We recommend the following for toilet repair:

• The cladding is porcelain stoneware. Dense, chemical-resistant and durable material is slightly more expensive than tiles. And its percentage of manufacturing defects is much lower than that of inexpensive tiles, so overall it comes out cheaper.
• Tile - earthenware or other kaolin-based tile (white on the inside and with a shiny fine-grained fracture).
• Paints are based on mineral pigment and marble flour filler (microcalcite). Somewhat worse with filler from dolomite flour, but with skillful painting they are also enough for 7-10 years.
• Washable wallpaper is made from polypropylene, polyester or foam.
• Drywall - only moisture resistant, green.
• Profiles for drywall - galvanized or aluminum.
• Plaster - any, but with obligatory impregnation with a roller after hardening with a primer for concrete deep penetration.
• Waterproofing - aquaizol or polyester.
• Floor screed – base and liquid polymer finishing.

Note: self-leveling floors were invented primarily for toilets, as a replacement for what was no good in them cement-sand screed. They are not cheap, but the cost for the toilet is small. If we take into account the bedding, selected sand, reinforcement, beacons, tools for concrete screed, but in a small area self-leveling flooring is even cheaper.

Sewer replacement

Replacing a sewer system in an apartment is a complex and difficult job. Here we will just add a little: in front of the cross, it is advisable to insert a tee with a 32 mm pipe into the outlet from the bathroom and kitchen. When repairing a small toilet in a panel house, it will be very useful, see the section on the installation of a washbasin in a Khrushchev-era toilet.

Cleaning the premises

Cleaning a toilet before renovation is easier than cleaning a bathroom, but it has its own peculiarities:

1. Before removing the floor, carefully inspect the toilet mountings (it is assumed that all plumbing has been removed immediately). The labor intensity of floor work and the cost of it largely depend on their condition, see the section on floor repair.
2. Both the floor and the walls do not need to be pulled down to the bare masonry, slab or ceiling: the bulk of the plaster and screed in toilets, as a rule, do not deteriorate even in damp block Khrushchev buildings.
3. The tiles can be knocked down rough, without scraping the floor to a smooth surface: with a self-leveling screed, small irregularities are not significant.
4. Paint and upper layer plaster from the ceiling and walls is dusty, but easy to clean with a drill and a round metal brush. With some skill, you can then immediately paint, glue tiles and wallpaper.
5. The skill of cleaning with a brush is developed quite quickly, so it is better to start cleaning from surfaces that will later be covered with a bathroom cabinet: there the flaws will disappear forever.
6. Upon completion of cleaning, the walls and ceiling should be vacuumed and treated with a roller with a deep penetration primer for concrete. While you are working on the floor, the walls and ceiling will be completely ready for painting, gluing and cladding.

Laying communications

If a toilet is being repaired in a Khrushchev-era building, then there is no choice regarding hydraulics and sewerage: they remain where they were. The mini-washbasin (which will be discussed later) does not require much trouble.

In cases where the area of ​​the room allows for the installation of additional sanitary and hygienic devices, the pipes to them will have to be hidden in the walls, otherwise they will spoil the whole appearance. The installation technology is the same as in the bathroom: solid soldered propylene on solid propylene fittings in grooves. Upon completion of installation, the grooves are foamed. There are two features, as the Americans say, good and bad:

• There is no need to plaster the grooves in the walls: they will be perfectly sealed with tiles.
• It is impossible to hide pipes in the floor or run them in a bunch in the corners, covering them with slopes: the first will create places where miasma accumulates, and the second, in addition, will be conspicuous and will noticeably reduce the floor area, which is already not redundant. So using a hammer drill with a chisel on concrete will have to work hard.

If “replacement” is understood as removing, painting and installing again, then remember: you need to paint only in a horizontal position, otherwise it will not do without drips. The paint is the same as others for the toilet. Whitewash, in order of preference - titanium, lead (don't worry, this is not free lead, they are not poisonous), zinc. The latter turn yellow after 3-4 years from traces of ammonia in the air; titanium ones are almost eternal.

Redecorating

Cosmetic renovation of a toilet assumes that the matter is limited to finishing and painting, and all plumbing fixtures remain in place. The finishing of the walls and ceiling in this case does not differ from that already described, but we deal with the floor more simply:

• We remove the baseboard.
• We seal the perimeter of the room and the circumference of the riser (or the contour of the cross, if it is semi-recessed into the floor) with silicone.
• Option 1: pour liquid polymer self-leveling floor onto the floor directly over the previous tiles in a layer of 10-15 mm. Calculation of volume - based on the area of ​​the room.
• Option 2: we lay marmoleum, having first removed the toilet. Cheaper, and rusted fasteners can be replaced. If the fastenings are in good working order, we make cross-shaped cuts on the marmoleum sheet in the places for the bolts (this way you don’t need to measure with pinpoint precision), and after laying the excess is cut off with a mounting knife.
• We put the plinth in place - you're done.

Toilet BEFORE and AFTER cosmetic repairs without replacing communications

Toilet with washbasin in Khrushchev

Look again at the drawing of the bathroom cabinet. Yes, there is a small washstand there, and you can wash your hands right there. But where can I get one? In railway cars they even cost more... Do it yourself:

1. The spout is ready-made, like a goose, with as little carry-out as possible.
2. The sink is a plastic, reusable deep bowl with a narrow bottom and an upper edge bent down. The choice is rich, the prices are inexpensive.
3. Water supply is via metal-plastic pipes, like in a kitchen sink from tees on the pipes.
4. The outlet is a 32 mm corrugated tee on the outlet from the bathtub to the kitchen (that’s what it’s for!).
5. Siphon - due to the bending of the corrugation.

An alternative is a miniature sink. But you'll have to look for it.

How do you get a shell from a bowl? First, in the center of the bottom of the bowl we drill 4 holes of 4 mm each, inscribed in a circle with a diameter of 30 mm; this will be the grid. Then we cut out a 12-18 mm round boss from plywood: the outer diameter is the diameter of the bottom of the bowl, excluding the collar; internal – 35 mm. We impregnate the boss with PVA emulsion. Then we glue the boss with AQUARIUM silicone glue to the bottom of the bowl and use the same silicone to glue the corrugation into it.

Now all that remains is to cut out holes for the bowl in the shelf of the cabinet using a compass drill for stone (the cabinet is already tiled) with a diameter along the upper diameter of the bowl; then it will lie with its bent edge on the shelf and under the spout. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the markings: the water should flow slightly away from the very center of the sink-bowl so as not to splash on the mesh.

And finally, we fix the mini-sink with silicone, now cheaper construction material. We insert the corrugation into the sewer pipe and seal it with the same silicone. In the closet, we put a fastening nut on the spout handles, take them out, attach them to the spout fittings, insert it into place, secure it with the nut - the mini washstand is ready.

Note: Do not glue the boss with construction silicone or superglue (cyanoacrylate glue). The first one is not strong enough, and the joint on the second one will fall apart in six months or a year.

Bottom line

Self-repair of a toilet can be done by an average level House master. In addition to significant money savings, this will give you experience with which you can get started.

Budget renovation do-it-yourself bathroom and toilet.

Good day, gentlemen and ladies! I want to tell my story of renovating a separate bathroom and toilet. Since the purchase of the apartment, renovation of the bathroom was postponed for 3 years, as other rooms were a priority. Here it is right time, we were just on vacation with the whole family in another city, and spontaneously decided to come home a month earlier before the end of the vacation to start work. This was at the beginning of 2016. Therefore, all materials were purchased in Mirny; if we had planned in advance, we could have ordered them from the mainland and would have received significant savings. The budget turned out to be around 150 thousand (approximately another +-30 thousand), purely based on materials. The main amount is collected from the bathtub, tiles, and plumbing fixtures. I basically did all the work myself; if others had done it, then you can easily add another 150-200 thousand for the work (probably) to the amount of materials. In our city, all prices are very inflated, this is a fact.

Our house is built in 1996, the square footage is small, the bathroom and balcony are very tiny. But the prices of apartments are the same as in Yakutsk, but the square footage is less.

I’ll probably make a post in the form of a photo report with notes. There were a lot of photos.

Go. Housing problem.

On the floor lay old Soviet square tiles, which were glued either with concrete or super glue, hammered with a hammer drill for 3 days 3 nights). Neighbors, sorry again. There was wallpaper glued to the walls and painted.

A good semi-professional assistant in repairs and carpet cleaning.

I stocked up on tiles. Honestly, I don’t remember how much they cost. Wall ones cost 110 rubles/tile. Russian made. Quality 3 minus. Even in the same box, the dimensions in length and width are different, so when you glue it, the level begins to play. And if you had ordered from the mainland in advance, then for this money you could have ordered branded imported tiles, they say they don’t have such a problem.

A simple toilet, for 7 thousand. Karl. Big mistake.

The bathtub is acrylic, I like it, it’s voluminous. Length 150 cm.

Old bath was metal. cooled down quickly.

Full swing Let's prepare the base of the floor. Application of deep penetration primer. Then a concrete screed.

Neighbor Aunt Lyuba made adjustments from time to time, Soft delicious buns!

Replacement work metal pipes. I called the housing and communal services plumbers, they turned off the water, made 2 transitions from the hot water and cold water risers to plastic, and also installed 2 meters and 1 heated towel rail. Emptying my wallet for 10 thousand.

This photo shows how old metal pipes become clogged.

For a complete replacement of pipes they asked for another 15 thousand rubles. This is without the walls being chipped. And my wife had an interesting idea. After watching a video on YouTube about installing polypropylene pipes, I decided to do it myself. I bought a welding machine for 2 thousand rubles. In principle, nothing complicated. The main thing is not to overexpose the pipes in the welding machine.

I didn't like the paint on the wall. To remove paint, I made this design from a 5 liter bottle with a connection to a vacuum cleaner. The result was not particularly pleasing, because... very long, dusty and noisy. I’ll tell you in advance, it’s easier to do it: if the paint comes off on its own, we clean it, then we go through the paint again with a scraper or chisel, then we buy a solution - concrete contact, apply it, and that’s it. The surface becomes flaky, like rough sandpaper. The tile adhesive adheres smoothly to it.

Here are the marks from the grinder on the wall.

Since the floors are very uneven, the slope is 3-5 cm per 1 meter, it is necessary to make an even level using the so-called beacons (green dots on the floor). Then we throw a concrete solution between the beacons and connect the beacons. We will fill the inner squares along these lines.

As a result, we get a flat floor. There will be a bathtub on the right, so I decided to save concrete there and use the legs to level it out.

We glue the tiles, make a 2mm distance between the tiles using crosses. In the future, we fill the space between the tiles with a special grout.

Bath installation. Behind the bathroom I tiled the wall and put a pipe from the faucet there. When you switch the mixer mode to shower - the water will flow above. This is the wife's idea.

On the left is a groove for electrical wiring, we connected the washing machine and made sockets. On the right is for the shower. Red is the concrete contact layer.

2 faucets)) The bathroom fills up 2 times faster))

We begin gluing tiles to the wall from the level of the bathtub. First we go through 1 horizontal line, then 2 rows of tiles. You can see how to glue tiles on the Internet, I watched YouTube)). You can find everything there technological process repair.

By the way, our walls are very crooked, sometimes with a propeller, sometimes with an angle... a nightmare. But no one knew how to level the walls and would not have had time to do so. The most difficult areas were the corners. More glue, time and nerves. Now the walls are not crooked at all.

My mistake. I glued the mirror with tile adhesive. The mirror is old from the previous owners.

You can see it very clearly here. At the top the angle is close, and at the bottom it begins to diverge. The problem was solved by grouting and more glue)).

The ceiling is already done. Lighting - 5 spot diode lamps, enough for the eyes. The shower was installed, it works well (China), we bought it in Yakutsk, I don’t remember in which store.

The glue dried out and ruined the reflective layer.

Dismantling using your favorite hammer drill.

I bought an ordinary tabletop; in our city we have nothing but ordinary things. Or in Tridoroga they will make it to order “like cool”.

I found a bedside table that was just the right size.

Not a single centimeter between the washing machine and the bathroom. Back to back. My perfectionism is getting high. I installed the tabletop on the corners of the wall and on the bedside table. Holds tight. At least jump.

Voila. The joint was smeared with white sealant.

Here is the final result.

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