DIY plasterboard ceiling - all the secrets and nuances that you definitely didn’t know about. How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself without outside help Do-it-yourself suspended ceiling from plasterboard

Traditional material for hanging ceiling structures– drywall. This ceiling can hide all communications in the interceiling space. You can make a regular, single-level ceiling, or complicate its design by making the ceiling a room zonator.

The first step in great job You will need to draw up a plan that includes consumables; a drawing is required (especially if the ceiling is complex); in the case of a shaped ceiling, you may have to make templates.

The work itself will proceed according to the following plan:

Preparation;
Installation of metal frame;
Ceiling finishing;
Putty of the ceiling surface;
Finishing;
Installation of lighting fixtures.

Each of the stages can be done independently. Making such a ceiling is not the easiest undertaking, but it will not only allow you to properly level the surface, but also create a ceiling decor that is original and aesthetic.

Construction of a frame for the ceiling

First you must mark the ceiling horizontal plane. Usually a laser or water level is used. It is difficult to do this alone; it is better to enlist the help of a partner.

What should be done:

Using a level, place marks around the perimeter of the wall. The minimum by which you can lower the ceiling is 3 cm, and if you are going to make recessed lamps, then their size will be a guideline for the height of the ceiling lowering.
Connect the marks together. Do this simply with painting thread. Mark the ceiling surface in order to install direct hangers and CD-60 load-bearing profiles.
After marking is completed, the guide profile is attached. It needs to be installed on the walls around the perimeter of the room, oriented towards the markings. The profile must be secured with dowels, the interval is from 300 to 450 mm.
Along the ceiling markings, straight hangers must be attached at intervals of 600 mm using self-tapping screws and dowels. At an angle of 90 degrees, lower their ends in the form of the letter U. Using 12 mm self-tapping screws with a drill, the supporting profiles are fixed to the U-shaped hangers.

If necessary, the profiles are joined with a direct connector; by the way, it can be made from a supporting profile. TO load-bearing profile crabs are attached at intervals of 600 mm. To do this, use sections of the UD-27 profile. Connect them between the crabs and the guides with 12mm self-tapping screws.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling covering: step-by-step instructions

The frame is ready, but this does not mean that the gypsum board can already be attached.

The work goes like this:

Lay the wiring in corrugated plastic pipes and secure it to the floor slabs with clamps. According to the plan for placing the lamps, release loops of wires at the places where the lighting equipment is connected.
Then you can sheathe the frame. Start attaching with a single sheet. The pitch of the screws is 200 mm. Lay the first row correctly, the second is mounted on offset ceilings. Be sure that the joints of the first row will be covered with slabs of the second row by at least one transverse profile.
Install the gypsum boards so that there is a five-millimeter gap at the walls. It serves as a kind of compensation for moisture and temperature expansion of the material. If you do not do this, the gypsum ceiling runs the risk of cracking.

Installation of a single-level plasterboard ceiling (video)

The final stage of installing a plasterboard ceiling

The work is not yet completed, but perhaps the simplest and most enjoyable stage lies ahead. You need to putty the ceiling and seal the seams. To do this, thoroughly treat the seams with a primer and wait until the primer dries. Do not tear the cardboard off the sheets!

Ordinary putty is not used for sealing seams; you need a very strong one; the Knauf line has such.

Apply the putty according to the instructions, first of all, seal all the seams near the wall, then take hold of the joints. Don't forget about the screw caps.
To seal a factory seam, first fill it with compound, and then use a wide putty knife to align the indentation with the edge of the sheet.
After the putty has dried, glue the sickle tape onto the seams. At the intersections it must be glued with an overlap. Dilute the putty a little more and cover the serpyanka, as well as any minor defects that remain. It is easier to putty with an angled spatula.
The effect of protection against cracks is enhanced by fiberglass spider webs. Even if some protrusions remain after sealing the seams, further finishing will correct them.
After this, the joint treated with putty is rubbed down (the fine grout method is used). You will get a smooth, even surface.
After grouting, let the drywall dry, and then prime the seams again. Then a finishing putty layer with a fine-grained structure is applied, usually using white putty.

Do not forget that the work is carried out at closed windows and windows, there should be no drafts. Otherwise, the finishing may suffer, and cracks, too, cannot be avoided in such a disrupted operating mode.

Finishing putty is not carried out if you are going to cover the ceiling with wallpaper or other decorative options(glossy finish). You just need to putty the joints and level the surface after the seams.

Puttying drywall seams (video)

Such a “sandwich” made of cardboard and plaster like gypsum board in almost any home can become a future beautiful and original ceiling. Look for ideas in a photo gallery, make sketches, outline a plan, and do it yourself installed ceiling will become your pride.

The easiest way to level the ceiling surface is to make a sheet of plasterboard. Moreover, to build a complex multi-level system not necessary, it is enough to make a single-level covering from gypsum plasterboard according to metal frame. If you follow the instructions exactly, you can make a single-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands in a couple of days. It is important to correctly select and calculate the amount of material, and upon completion of installation, prepare the surface for treatment with the selected finishing material. The article will describe: installation technology, prices for work carried out by professional craftsmen.

If you decide to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands, then first decide on the type of plasterboard and calculate the required amount of material.

Depending on the purpose and characteristics of the processes occurring in it, one of the following is used: the following types gypsum boards:

moisture resistant products have a characteristic greenish surface and are suitable for installation in a damp room in a bathroom, kitchen, toilet or swimming pool;
fire-resistant gypsum plasterboard is used in places with increased requirements for fire safety(on staircases, escape routes, in corridors public institutions and so on.);
standard slabs have a gray surface and are suitable for installation in residential areas with normal humidity, for example, in the bedroom, living room, office, children's room, hallway or corridor;
also happens wall and ceiling plasterboard, the latter has a smaller thickness and weight, therefore it is more suitable for installation on the ceiling;
arched gypsum board is the thinnest, it is used for the manufacture of curved surfaces (it is not used when installing single-level coatings).

Important! To calculate the required number of gypsum boards, you need to know the area of the ceiling. We divide the resulting value by the area of one plasterboard sheet and round up to the whole product.

Tools and materials necessary for work

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, you need to prepare the necessary materials:

gypsum boards;
metal profiles for frame assembly;
primer;
putty;
screws and dowels;
necessary components (suspensions, connectors);
serpyanka;
dowel-nails for mounting perforated hangers;
self-tapping screws for metal work;
finishing finishing material(wallpaper, paint, etc.).

The following tools will be needed:

perforator;
drill;
hammer;
screwdriver;
spatulas;
rollers and brushes;
primer tray;
paint grater;
construction and laser level;
chop cord;
pencil;
roulette;
ladder;
ruler;
metal scissors.

Selection of profiles for the ceiling

If you make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, it is important to choose the right profiles for assembling the supporting frame:

To assemble guide rails on the walls, you will need PN profiles with a cross-section of 27x28 mm and a length of up to 4 m.
The main frame is assembled from ceiling PP profiles with a cross-section of 60x27 mm and a length of 300-400 cm.
In addition to the profile elements, you will need direct perforated hangers, as well as single-level crab-type connectors.

Surface preparation before installing gypsum boards

If you decide to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then step-by-step instruction from our article will help you. Since the surface of the suspended ceiling completely hides any defects and unevenness of the base, it does not require special preparation.

If there is an old coating that does not adhere well to the base, then it is better to dismantle it. Areas with mold are cleaned down to the base ceiling and treated with an antiseptic composition so that the fungus does not appear again in the future.

At the preparatory stage they lay engineering Communication – ventilation ducts and wiring to the installation sites of lamps. In addition, markings are applied to the installation locations of the frame elements.

To do this, do the following:

Find the lowest corner in the room using a laser measuring device.
From this angle downward, a value equal to the height of the depression of the new ceiling surface is set aside. The distance can be calculated by taking into account the thickness of the frame, laid communications and the height of the built-in lamps.
Using a laser level, we transfer the resulting mark to the remaining corners of the room.
We connect all the points in the corners with longitudinal lines on the walls using a tapping cord.
On the ceiling surface we mark the installation locations for PP profiles. Usually they are mounted in increments of 40 cm. We place dots along these lines in increments of 60 cm. These will be the locations where the hangers will be installed.

Installation of guides

First you need to assemble a structure from guide rails on the walls of the room. To do this, we drill holes in the PN profile in increments of 50 cm. We make the outermost holes at a distance of no more than 5 cm from the end of the profile. Then we apply the product to the markings on the wall surface and mark the holes.

Drill holes in the wall using a hammer drill. Then we hammer the dowels into the holes and screw the profile with self-tapping screws. Similarly, we install guide profiles on all walls in the room.

Important! After assembling the frame from the guides, install perforated suspensions on the ceiling according to pre-applied markings. Each part is attached to two dowel-nails.

Ceiling profile installation

We cut longitudinal ceiling profiles according to the width of the room. We insert the ends of one rail into the groove of the guides on the wall. In the central part, we attach the rail to the base ceiling surface using perforated hangers. We screw self-tapping screws into the side shelves, and bend the excess part of the suspension ears upward so that they do not interfere with the installation of drywall.

We mount the next profile in the same way at a distance of 40 cm from the previous product. Thus, each gypsum sheet will be attached to 4 profiles, which increases the reliability of the entire structure.

In a small area, transverse short ceiling profiles may not be used. In a large room, they are cut to length and installed in 60 cm increments between the longitudinal slats. To fasten these parts to the frame, single-level connectors are used. Short slats are not attached to perforated hangers.

Laying thermal insulation

If the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is carried out with additional insulation premises, then styling thermal insulation materials performed at this stage. Usually soft insulators, such as mineral wool, are used. The insulation boards are cut according to the width of the step with which the longitudinal frame elements are installed, plus 1-2 cm for tight joining.

The material is placed between the slats so that it is held apart. The ends of the insulation boards are placed as close to each other as possible so that there are no gaps. To protect the mineral wool from absorbing moisture, a vapor barrier membrane is sewn to the bottom of the frame. The material is laid in strips with an overlap of 15 cm and secured with double-sided tape.

Important! The vapor barrier can be attached to the wooden sheathing with a stapler.

Installation of gypsum boards

Installation of drywall begins from one of the corners of the room. The slab is laid lengthwise on the longitudinal profiles of the frame. Moreover, each sheet must be attached to four PP rails. The product is screwed with self-tapping screws, which are mounted in increments of 25 cm. The extreme fasteners are placed from the edge of the sheet at a distance of at least 2.5 cm.

The next sheet is mounted in the same way, which is laid close to the previous one. The longitudinal joint of the slabs should be in the middle of the ceiling profile. The outermost sheets in the row are cut to width.

Final surface treatment

Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard needs finishing decorative coating. Various finishing options are possible - painting with interior paint, whitewashing, wallpapering or film.

In any case, the surface of the plasterboard ceiling needs to be prepared:

All seams between the slabs must be puttied using serpyanka. Apply to the seam thin layer solution, press the serpyanka and cover with a second layer of putty. The surface is well leveled.
Places for installing self-tapping screws are puttied.
After the putty mixture has dried, the treated areas are sanded with fine-grain sandpaper.
The surface is dust-free and treated with a primer. After the first layer of primer mixture has dried, a second one is applied. This preparation is sufficient for wallpapering the ceiling.
If painting is to be done, the entire surface is puttied with a finishing compound, and after it dries, sanded. Then the ceiling is treated with primer again deep penetration. Now the surface is ready for painting.

If the ceiling surface is relatively flat, and you do not plan to install built-in lamps and lay utilities in the ceiling space, then installing gypsum boards on the ceiling can be done using frameless technology. In this case, you will not need to assemble the sheathing from metal profiles or wooden blocks, because gypsum boards are simply glued to the ceiling with special glue. This installation method allows you to significantly save and speed up work.

Now you know how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. It is much more profitable to install gypsum boards yourself, since the price per m2 of professional installation of plasterboard on the ceiling is $10. Considering how much the materials cost and finishing, then the final cost can reach up to $20 per square. That is why it is better to carry out the installation yourself, and the instructions from our article will help you do everything correctly.

Plasterboard ceilings can be made with the least loss of room height of 10 cm if you use special metal profiles. At the same time, it is possible to insulate the ceiling if the apartment is on the top floor of the building, as well as enhance sound insulation. Even greater space savings are possible if you attach the gypsum boards not to the profile, but to a lathing made of durable wooden slats. When making suspended ceilings from plasterboard with your own hands, you need to prepare materials and tools in advance.

In order to accurately know the consumption of gypsum boards, hangers, and transverse elements, it is necessary to mark the ceiling. This preparatory moment will allow you to avoid making mistakes in your calculations.

Marking the ceiling and purchasing supplies

The marking begins with the location of the longitudinal hanging elements. To ensure that the frame does not go to the side, it is necessary to measure the length of the opposite walls. If their length at the ceiling is the same, then there are no problems with the order of longitudinal marking. You can start it by retreating 20-30 cm from the wall.

Advice! If there is a difference, then you need to find the middle of the room. To do this, you will need to mark the middle on opposite walls and connect them with straight lines. At the intersection of the segments there will be the middle of the room.

Relative to the middle, segments of 60 cm + profile width are laid out in both directions along the lobar. The locations of the transverse elements of the frame are marked in a similar way. The step between them is 50 cm. Accordingly, the distance between the profiles should be strictly 60 cm. Other options for cell sizes are also possible.

Drywall is not a lightweight material, so the cell size cannot be large. The frequency of intersections of metal hangers also affects the rigidity of the frame.

It is better to take hanging profiles with a reserve so as not to cut longitudinal elements from scraps. Larger residues will go to the cross members. Measuring the length of the walls will allow you to determine the size of the guides.

You will need screws, bolts and drywall for the job. The consumption of the base material is calculated based on the area of the required coverage. The fewer small elements, the neater the plane will be, which means finishing work will create the appearance monolithic slab ceiling.

Tools for work

Most working tools are interchangeable. When compiling a list of what you need, it is better to start from your existing home and your own tools:

To mark the ceiling you will need a tape measure, a marker, a long, even stick, and a building level.
A hammer drill is required to prepare holes for frame fasteners. As a last resort, you can use impact drill. Drills for concrete with pobedit tips ( required diameter) must be kept in stock.
The work will use screws for metal and drywall. Their heads do not necessarily match. You will need a screwdriver with a set of bits.
To cut drywall, you will need a fine-tooth hacksaw and a construction knife.
For processing cuts, a regular fine grater and a fine sandpaper.
For finishing works I'll have to stock up gypsum putty and masking tape.

Advice! To make plasterboard ceilings with your own hands, you need to be patient and enlist the help of a friend or relative. It is impossible to carry out all the work alone.

Frame installation instructions

Most necessary element frame - guides, they are mounted on the wall. Their installation must be approached with special responsibility. They must be positioned strictly horizontally; this is a mandatory requirement in order to install a suspended ceiling without distortions. To do this, marking the walls is done using a laser level.

You can make markings using regular building level and plumb lines, but it will be longer and more difficult for an inexperienced master. Therefore, if you are taking on this procedure without practice, then to ensure the correctness of your actions, you should not only read the information on the topic, but also step-by-step instructions with video lessons will not be superfluous.

Having secured the metal guides to the wall, you can begin installing the hangers. These can be “U”-shaped metal brackets with several levels of mounting holes, knitting needles with threaded ends, or strong metal wire attached to hooks screwed into the ceiling.

The last option applies to homemade design plasterboard ceiling, just right. During operation, this design looks creepy, but it is the wire that gives top scores on adjusting the profile height for a suspended plasterboard ceiling. The main thing is that the twist is reliable.

Of course, special fastenings for profiles made in the factory look more attractive, but they are good for ceilings that do not have large differences in height. And if the house has given an uneven settlement, then there can be no question of an even plane of the ceiling. Rigid fastenings will not help hide the distortion. A threaded spoke gives the best effect.

How to install suspensions on your ceiling, and what type they should be, everyone decides for themselves. An interesting option with two height adjustment options consists of threaded hooks with dowels, to which thick aluminum wire is attached.
After fixing all the elements of the longitudinal profile in the hangers, it is time to attach the short transverse elements. Alignment of profiles in height is done using a building level.

Important! If, when measuring in all directions, the level drop remains in the middle, it means that the frame is installed as accurately as possible. You can proceed to the next stage - covering with plasterboard.

How to make ceilings warm

Insulation of plasterboard ceilings is carried out after laying the frame, before the finishing sheathing. The best material Mineral wool is used to carry out this stage of work. The peculiarity of the installation is to fill the frame cells with it as much as possible, but to avoid deformation. To do this, you need to cut the material very accurately. The mineral wool is attached to the concrete slab with umbrella nails. It is easier to cut and attach foam plastic, but it does not dampen the impact sounds that appear when objects fall or when walking in flip-flops.

Most often in multi-storey buildings good audibility. It will help drown out some sounds mineral insulation, in addition to it, you can use a special foil material that will reflect heat into the room and muffle impact sounds from neighbors above. This material is installed at the time of attaching the suspensions. The condition under which the material will give maximum effect– this is the absence of overhead seams. It should fit closely, but without overlap. It is secured to the seam with special soundproofing tape.

Two-tier suspended plasterboard ceiling

Do-it-yourself two-tier plasterboard ceiling involves making initial stages using the same technology used to assemble a single-tier one. But in this case it is difficult to do without special “U”-shaped suspensions. They serve not only to hold profiles, but also to attach second-tier hangers.

On video: instructions for installing a two-level ceiling with a transition to the wall.

If the second tier is to be a rounded projection, then an outer profile with a corresponding curve will be required. It is also mounted on hangers and serves to hold the side wall of the tier.

Internal cuts of the lid and side wall sheets are made at an angle of 45°, this is necessary to make it easier to hide the joint. The repair manual for any ceiling involves installing ceiling plinth. By installing foam baseboards, you can hide uneven joints between the ceiling and walls. They are as easy to coat with water-based paint as drywall itself.

Frame covering

For do-it-yourself suspended plasterboard ceilings, it is better to cut out all the elements at once. This will allow you to remove the table on which the sheets were marked out of the room, sweep away any remaining material that is unnecessary for work, and remove gypsum dust.

Drywall is cut in three steps:

The marking is done on one side of the sheet. A deep incision is made along this line. The main task is to cut right through the cardboard.
Now the same procedure is carried out on the second side of the sheet.
If the cutting was done on a large table, and the cut turned out to be deep, then the sheet can be broken along the markings with strong sharp pressure on the edge. Otherwise, it is better to use a hacksaw. This way there will be significantly fewer defects along the edge.

Advice! No tool can get rid of small chips in the plaster filling. To give the cut a rounded shape, you will need a fine grater. Fine sandpaper is used for sanding. It is not recommended to use needle files, rasps, or files; their working part will quickly become clogged with gypsum dust.

Now all that remains is to fix the gypsum board on the frame. This will require two platforms spaced apart equal to length leaf. It is most convenient to work with a screwdriver. You can do it the old fashioned way, using a hand screwdriver. It's just inconvenient to hold a heavy sheet. It is better to start covering from the corner of the wall with the window.

The technical characteristics of drywall are such that when the weather changes, and therefore the humidity inside the room, the material absorbs moisture and expands.

Such hygroscopicity leads to the fact that neighboring sheets can squeeze each other out, or under the pressure of the side elements of the ceiling, the middle one will receive damage that cannot be hidden cosmetic repairs. It can only be replaced.

To prevent this from happening, you should remember one simple rule - There should be a gap of 5-6 mm between the wall and the gypsum board. The distance between adjacent sheets cannot be less than 2-5 mm. Ordinary matches inserted between adjacent sheets will help make a ceiling sheet with a uniform seam along its entire length.

How to hide gaps in the ceiling

To make the ceiling appear monolithic, you will need putty, a spatula, and fine-mesh masking tape. If you don't have one, you can use a bandage. There is no need to putty the gaps near the wall. Only the seams between the sheets are filled with gypsum mortar. Excess plaster is removed with a spatula along the seam. A tape is applied over a thin layer of putty. It is necessary to ensure that the brittle plaster does not crack. This way the ceiling will not require repairs longer.

A final thin layer of putty is applied over the paint mesh. After it has completely dried, you can begin finishing work. An installed plasterboard ceiling can be coated with a layer water-based paint. The plasterboard base is also suitable for installing a stretch ceiling.

Advice! The remaining gaps near the walls will be hidden by the ceiling plinth. The technology for installing a ceiling plinth depends on the material from which it is made, the width, the need to make the room taller or wider (visually) and many other factors.

Drywall for a short time has turned from a material of little use in repairs into one of the most in demand. Columns, arches, multi-level ceilings, false fireplaces - the lightness of the material in the work allows the master's imagination to unfold in full force. Even a beginner can make a plasterboard sheet, while following all the recommendations and rules.

Peculiarities

Suspended ceiling It is a single-level or multi-level metal frame, mounted on the ceilings and walls of the room, covered with gypsum board slabs. A prerequisite is also the presence of lighting sources built into it.

First of all, you need to decide what a sheet of drywall is. Without going into details, we can explain it this way: this is a sheet of dry plaster, covered with cardboard on top.

Despite its apparent simplicity, the material has a lot of impressive advantages:

With the help of gypsum plasterboard you can level out very significant bumps and depressions on the ceiling without spending significant effort. To do this you need to take liquid solution– and the advantage becomes even more obvious.
Inside the frame, on which the sheets of drywall are attached, you can hide any wires and connect all the desired communications, while leaving them invisible to the eye. And this is a big plus, from an aesthetic point of view.

Any desired lighting can be mounted in a ceiling made of this material, which allows you to achieve completely unique lighting effects.
Drywall sheets make it possible to create a multi-level ceiling, bringing the owner's imagination to life.

Due to free space Additional noise and heat insulation can be installed in the frame. It is enough just to lay an additional layer of mineral wool between the ceiling and the false ceiling.
GCR is installed dry without the use of liquid, which guarantees a minimum amount of dust and dirt.

It is quite possible to carry out all activities related to drywall with your own hands. This means you can do it at minimal cost original design in accordance with your ideas.

Of course, it cannot be said that drywall is a material without drawbacks. Of course, they exist, but they relate more to the editing of the material than to the material itself.

For example:

Due to the fact that when installing a gypsum board ceiling, a frame is used, the ceiling height is reduced. And, if the ceilings are already low, this can become a problem.

If you don’t have the skills to work with this material, then you can tinker with the frame for quite a long time: it will be difficult to do the installation alone, it’s better to enlist the help of a partner.
The technology of the finishing process must not be violated, otherwise cracks will most likely appear in the seams and between them.

Device

GKL slabs offer the widest range of possibilities for creating a ceiling.

The main components of a plasterboard ceiling are the following materials:

GKL sheets. They are selected depending on the room in which the ceiling is installed, as well as the functionality of the sheet. Therefore, it is advisable to install moisture-resistant gypsum boards in the bathroom, and fire-resistant ones are perfect for the kitchen.
A profile for a frame, that is, a base on which plasterboard sheets are attached. It ensures the stability of the entire structure. Profiles are divided into two types: starting and supporting. The starting profile runs along the perimeter of the ceiling, and gypsum plasterboard slabs are attached to the supporting structures.

Metal hangers on which profiles are attached. It is possible to use conventional hangers or hangers with a bracket.
Dowels and screws for drywall.
Finishing materials: reinforcing tape, putty, primer, fine-grained sandpaper, which is used to level the ceiling after putty.

Kinds

A suspended ceiling can be installed in many different configurations. Nevertheless, there are three main types, the rest are the basis for more complex options.

Ceilings can be:

single-level;
simple two- or three-level;
complex.

Most budget option is, of course, an easy-to-install and inexpensive single-level ceiling. One way or another, its installation levels the surface of the ceiling, making it easy to decorate.

Based on the first level, the next ones are built - this way differences in ceiling height are created.

Multi-level surfaces can also be classified into the following categories:

frame;
diagonal;
zonal;
complex ceilings other forms.

The frame structure is represented by a box made of gypsum plasterboard, located in the form of a frame along the perimeter of the ceiling surface. A chandelier hanging in the center of the ceiling will fit harmoniously into the composition.

In a diagonal design, each subsequent level divides the ceiling along a conditionally drawn diagonal, and not necessarily in a straight line: it can be a wave or an arc. Either way, it makes half the room stand out. Since gypsum board is a flexible material, forming a curly line is not difficult.

The zonal design highlights a specific area, highlighting the work area or recreation area.

Complex structures can be given different shapes: arched, patterned, figured. The shape can also be like a flower, geometric figure or spirals. It all depends on the owner’s imagination and the style in which it is decided to arrange the room.

Design

The design of a gypsum board ceiling can have an endless number of options.

There are a number of nuances:

If the room is spacious and has sufficient height, then it is permissible to arrange multi-level ceiling and decorate it, for example, by laying out molded baguettes, friezes, medallions, ovals. It is beautiful if the pattern on the parquet duplicates the pattern of the ceiling surface.
If the room has a large area, then it can be zoned, highlighting, for example, a recreation area with a home theater or dining area. In these cases, it is also good to provide appropriate lighting for each area with the ability to turn it on and off separately - the room will look even more impressive.

If the room is small and low, then it is better not to pile up multi-level structures in it - one level will be enough. There is no need for large lampshades or a chandelier with pendants. Spotlights mounted into the ceiling surface will look most harmonious.
A cornice will add “air” to the space of the room if you make it small and run it around the perimeter of the ceiling.
This technique will help to visually enlarge the room: paint the surfaces of the ceiling and walls in one color, preferably in a light color scheme.
After consulting with an interior designer, you can consider installing a mirror on the ceiling.

There is another way to visually “raise” the ceiling: by combining a suspended ceiling with a shiny, glossy surface and a suspended structure made of gypsum plasterboard in the interior of one room.
The ceiling should not differ in style from the rest of the interior of the room. For example, in a room made in Provence style, a ceiling with a mirror surface will look strange.
The most original type of ceiling made from gypsum plasterboards is arched. The easiest arched ceiling to perform is semi-cylindrical. The main condition is to correctly mount the base for the ceiling.

There are four main ceiling design options:

single-level;
two-level;
three-level;
figured (this includes arches).

Single-level ceilings simple and reliable. For small spaces this is the best option.

You can decorate it in the following ways:

paint in different colors;
cover with putty;
paint by hand;
cover with wallpaper.

If the walls in the room are below 3 meters, then it is better to use light shades. Dark or bright colors can visually reduce an already small space.

Despite the fact that the ceiling is called single-level, it should not have a perfectly flat surface. You can make the level convex or concave, which will give a completely unusual effect. It should be noted that this type of suspended ceiling is the easiest to do with your own hands.

The most popular option is a two-level one; as for the three-level one, it is quite difficult to implement.

Two-level ceiling provides many of the most variety of options, with their help you can give different shapes to the ceiling surface, and lighting can add even more originality to the design. It is not difficult to build such a ceiling, but it still requires some effort.

If the height of the ceiling allows, you can make something like a “reflection”: place a ledge on the ceiling above a similar podium structure on the floor.

Constructions made from gypsum boards, accompanied by thoughtful lighting, can look incredibly impressive. The flight of design thought can create original compositions: waves, a combination of matte and glossy surfaces, zigzags and ovals, hand painting, 3D wallpaper (“wooden”, “sky”, “sea and palm trees”). Of course, the design is not limited to one game of levels and colors; without lighting, the desired effect will never be achieved. And here LEDs and halogen, chandeliers and lampshades, mirrors and spotlights come into play.

Extremely attractive appearance have multi-tiered structures. It is best to build them in a room with high and very high ceilings, for example, in a private house, since they “eat up” a significant part of the height of the room. Making them is more difficult than, for example, a two-tier structure, and since drywall is an extremely easy-to-work material, it may take a little more time, but the result will be a stunning effect.

Stepped elements from gypsum plasterboard can be made according to individual order, hiding in them, for example, ceiling beams or ventilation hood. It’s not even worth mentioning the built-in lighting sources - they are prerequisite multi-tiered fantasy ceiling structure.

A figured suspended ceiling requires considerable skill in its design and installation, however, non-standard elements (flower, solar system, clouds, starry sky) will appeal to everyone. Drywall has properties that allow you to create the desired figure or figures from it: you can build a structure from intertwined abstract shapes, this looks especially good in rooms with a large area. An expensive but effective solution is patterns with small cells. The “roll call” with small inclusions of similar patterns on the walls will give such a ceiling a special chic.

An interesting option is the so-called floating ceiling. To create it, you need to select the shape (silhouette) that will be located under the ceiling. It is made separately from gypsum boards and attached to an already finished structure. This creates the appearance that the ceiling element is floating in the air. As a rule, this method is combined with illumination of the “floating” element around the perimeter, which gives an additional effect to the design.

Installation

Once the preparation of the ceiling surface is completed, it is time to begin installation. It is important to strictly follow the sequence of actions and technologies necessary to carry out each step.

Ceilings made from gypsum plasterboards can be:

hemmed;
suspension.

IN hemmed structure sheets of plasterboard are attached to the ceiling surface using wooden beam or bent profile, which is called filing. This great option for rooms with small height ceiling. It is also well suited for installation in a home where wooden floors. The disadvantage of this type is the impossibility of hemming sheets of drywall so well as to obtain a perfectly flat surface.

For a suspended ceiling, gypsum plasterboard slabs are mounted on a frame made of profiles mounted on hangers. This design is ideal for hiding ventilation, wires, and lighting.

It is most convenient to cut sheets of drywall if they are positioned vertically and leaned against the wall.

Work on installing a suspended ceiling begins with the installation of the frame.

The secrets of this stage are described in step-by-step instructions:

After the markings on the ceiling are made, the guide profile (already drilled) is attached to the walls. Its edge is attached to the marking line. Below this mark the frame elements will be located. This important step, if you decide to do the ceiling yourself.
Having covered the guide profiles with sealing tape, they are secured to the dowels. Dowels should be screwed in advance.

Attaching hangers every 0.5 m. The initial step from the wall is 0.25 m. You need to attach the hangers to anchors. It is important to take into account that drilling generates dust, so it is better to carry out all this work while wearing safety glasses and a respirator. When the hangers are fixed, their edges need to be folded.
The next step is to install the ceiling profile. After installation, it must be fixed to the guide. Self-tapping screws without a drill will help with this.
After this, you need to make jumpers - they strengthen the structure. It is imperative to check the position of the profiles using a level. The jumpers are fixed using “crabs”.

If insulation is necessary, then mineral wool is placed in the jumpers. It has both thermal insulation properties and absorbs noise. Working with mineral wool also requires the use of a respirator; in addition, gloves are required.
The installation of the sheathing is completed, the next thing to do is wiring the electrical cable. The wires must be in a corrugated sleeve - under no circumstances should communication parts be allowed to press or hang down on the frame.

After this, you can begin covering the frame with gypsum board slabs. All sheets must be pre-prepared: in a lying position, they must be stored for some time in the very room where they will be mounted. In addition, holes must be made in them for lamps.
Sheathing with plasterboard begins from the corner, fastening occurs with self-tapping screws every 15 cm.
The sheets are not installed end-to-end: it is imperative to leave 4-5 mm between them.

The installation of the ceiling is completed, you can proceed to finishing, but only after the seams have been sealed. This is very important, because if the seams are sealed poorly, this can lead to cracks throughout the entire ceiling covering. You can do this using a sickle mesh or putty.

If the method of puttying seams is chosen, then the sequence of actions is as follows:

impregnation of joints with a primer containing acrylates;
when dry, dilute a putty mixture, for example, gypsum;
fill the seams with the mixture and smooth with a spatula (a wide one will do);
additionally do the same in the gaps between the sheets and the heads of the screws;

when dry, glue the serpyanka and putty;
apply finishing putty a layer maximum 1.5 cm thick;
smooth out roughness with fine-grain sanding;
remove dust using a dry sponge or vacuum cleaner;
Apply primer with acrylic.

After this, surface repairs will not be needed for very long, and finishing work can begin.

Project. The properties of plasterboard are such that they allow you to create structures of any complexity. But the more complex the future design, the more accurate the calculations and plans should be. As with any other work, a project is needed to install a suspended ceiling. This includes a graphical representation, possibly an estimate or list of required materials, as well as a sequence of actions. In addition to the list of materials, you also need to calculate their required quantity.

A ceiling design made from gypsum plasterboards should ideally include:

A sketch (drawing) that contains an image of the future structure. The sketch must be large-scale and in color.
The drawing is a reflection of all elements load-bearing structure. If there are two or more ceiling levels, the drawing may contain more than one sheet.
Calculation of materials. The more carefully it is compiled, the less likely it is that compliance with the installation technology will be violated.

If you plan to do the installation yourself, it is better to consult with professionals, taking the project with you. This will make it easier for them to find the error and point it out, which will help avoid losses in the quality of the future design.

When creating a sketch, you need to take into account the following constant positions:

room area;
ceiling height and shape;
colors of the floor and wallpaper, patterns on them;
the style in which the room is decorated;
design and dimensions of furniture in the room.

Having drawn a sketch, it is advisable to transfer it to tracing paper. Subsequently, the tracing paper will be superimposed on the frame drawing to refine the final design.

If you put everything listed on one sheet, the drawing will contain too much information and look overloaded.

In the case of planning a ceiling with one level, the cell of the sheathing is 0.5x0.6 m. If several tiers are planned or something massive will be placed on the ceiling, for example, a chandelier or a mirror, the cell size is reduced to 0.5x0.4 m. Similarly the distance between the hangers will decrease from 1 m to 0.5-0.6 m.

The drawing of the sheathing of the first tier should contain all the information about the attachment points and the passage of profiles, the bookmark for lamps, and the installation points of suspensions. This should also be contained in the drawings of all subsequent tiers.

After completing the drawings and adjusting the sketch by superimposing them on top of each other, you need to move on to calculations. They should take into account everything: from the number of sheets of drywall to cans of putty. In addition, if you plan to do the installation yourself, then a separate list must be drawn up, which should reflect the availability of the necessary tools.

Upon completion of the calculations, you need to transfer the graphic part of the project to the ceiling surface. The more accurately this is done, the more correct, smoother and stronger the future suspended ceiling will be. After marking the ceiling, you can get a rough idea of what the future object will look like. If it's not what you wanted, adjustments need to be made.

Preparation

Before starting work, you need to make a series preparatory activities on the ceiling surface, namely:

Clean off the old finishing layer. This can be done using, for example, a spatula.
Remove stains of mold, grease, rust, and fungus using special antiseptics.
Fill cracked areas with putty. For this purpose, it is better to use cement-based putty.
Prime the coating with a composition that contains an antiseptic (it would be correct to use “Kolorit” or “Lakru”). This condition is mandatory, otherwise stains on the ceiling will inevitably appear. In addition, this is one of the activities that helps level the surface.

After all these steps, the surface is ready. After waiting for the primer to dry, you need to turn off the power to the room in which you plan to install the ceiling, and you can begin installation.

Tools. Preparing tools and equipment is important preparatory stage work. Unfortunately, due attention is not always given to it, as a result of which work constantly has to be interrupted, since either there is not enough fittings or a tape measure at hand. Therefore, it is better to prepare everything you might need in advance and not be distracted while working.

To install a suspended ceiling, you need the following:

guide and ceiling profile;
U-shaped suspensions;
profile connectors or “crabs”;
dowels and screws, and best of all, anchors;
plasterboard sheets;

self-tapping screws (both for metal and for gypsum plasterboard);
sealing tape;
finishing material;
hydro- and heat-insulating material.

There are several rules that must be followed when carrying out repair or finishing work:

You should not try to save on materials, for example, on metal profiles. The cheaper it is, the thinner it is; accordingly, it will bend and hold the structure poorly. Having made the right choice, the master ensures the reliability and durability of the structure.
It’s good if the master has levels of two sizes: one up to 1 m high, the second 2-2.5 m. If you have a laser level and the skills to use it, then two levels will not be needed.
The thickness of the plasterboard sheets should not exceed 9 mm, otherwise a different frame (more rigid) and a different sequence of installation actions will be needed.
It is important to consider the purpose of the room in which the ceiling is installed and select the material taking it into account. For example, for installation in a bathroom, plasterboard sheets must be moisture-resistant, that is, ordinary gypsum plaster boards will not be suitable.

Lighting

The choice of lighting for a suspended ceiling is very important point, because lamps can make a composition the “highlight” of the interior or completely kill it with their tasteless combination.

Typically they use recessed spotlights, then the lighting can be made multi-position. Most often they use halogen lamps, and the housing is metal, glass, brass or thermoplastic. In addition, the lamps can be painted in various sophisticated shades, such as polished and matte brass, bronze, matte or black chrome - this will make them even more attractive.

To illuminate multi-level ceiling surfaces in the background, use fluorescent lamps, sometimes neon and duralight.

As spotlights, lighting sources with halogen lamps are preferable, since when they are installed, the ceiling height does not decrease as much as when installing lamps with standard lamps - this is convenient when the ceilings in the room are already low.

Halogen lamps are classified as warm-toned lighting sources close to the white spectrum, and therefore do not distort the shades in the room. It is better not to touch the glass surface of the lamp with your hands - there is a high probability that they will remain greasy spots. This, in turn, will lead to the glass of the flask melting at the point of contact. It is better to use a clean cloth glove or just a clean cloth napkin for this.

When installing lamps, do not forget about fire safety standards and rules, for example, on ensuring sufficient distance between the ceiling and the ceiling. When using a dimmer as a switch (in order to smoothly regulate the brightness of the lighting), there is no need to install protection on the lamps.

The selection of spotlights is carried out in accordance with the purpose of the room and the number of windows in it. LED or energy-saving lamps are best suited for this. Thanks to spotlights, the room can be divided into zones, for example, in a studio apartment.

Transformers are usually located behind gypsum plasterboards on a suspended ceiling; they can be accessed through lamp holes. It is better if there are several transformers in one room - one for a group of lamps. So, if one fails, the others will continue to work. The likelihood that all transformers will burn out at the same time is extremely small. In addition, one large and heavy transformer can cause too much pinpoint impact on the drywall sheets.

Transformers are divided into the following types:

induction;
electronic.

Induction ones are heavier, but more reliable and cheaper. Electronic ones are lighter, but more expensive and break more often.

The question “how many lamps will be needed to illuminate one room” is individual for each owner. This problem is easily resolved by sketching the future ceiling and marking it. To illuminate the living room in an average city apartment, an average of 12 lamps with a power of 50 W will be required. And it’s better if the switch has two or three buttons, thereby making it possible to adjust the intensity of lighting or highlight the area of the room where it is necessary.

Also interesting solution There will be a dimmer installed to regulate the overall brightness of the lighting in the room. It's functional as well as beautiful. In addition, the dimmer will reduce energy consumption by more than half and increase the life of halogen lamps. This is because the lamp operates under milder temperature conditions, as it heats up smoothly and gradually decreases brightness.

Of course, installing spotlights together with halogen lamps will be more expensive, but later this will create significant energy savings.

To mount a suspended ceiling with lighting sources, you need to mark sheets of drywall for the holes for them, and then start drilling using an electric drill with a crown attachment. You need to drill holes only after purchasing the lamps, since there is no standard size for the holes. Puttying is only possible after all holes have been drilled.

LED lighting is divided into the following types:

dome;
linear;
directional light LEDs;
LED panels.

To illuminate multi-level ceiling surfaces in the background, white lights are mostly used. fluorescent lamps. Such lamps are placed next to each other so as not to interrupt the light surface on the ceiling. Taking this into account, you can calculate how many lamps you will need. As a result, the lighting should be soft, diffused, and comfortable for the eyes.

If the perimeter of the ceiling surface is too large and you need a lot of lamps, you can use alternative options. For example, duralight, which is a bendable plastic light cord-tube. Miniature incandescent lamps assembled into a garland are pressed into it. For an apartment, you can use the “fixing” modification - it glows continuously.

Duralight is cheap, easy to install, durable, available big choice colors, does not require a large “canopy” in the ceiling for installation, and consumes a small amount of electricity. The downside may be poor lighting, but this can easily be corrected by wrapping it two or three times instead of once.

Speaking about electroluminescent wire (cold neon), it should be noted that it is essentially a flexible cord made of polyvinyl chloride, into which a current-carrying wire is hermetically installed. This cord is easy to cut and solder - this is its difference from duralight. It is durable, it can be laid out in different configurations, its light is dazzlingly beautiful at night, and it is invisible during the day. The scope of its application is very wide.

Electrical wiring must be installed in compliance with a number of necessary conditions:

This must be done before finishing work begins, before installing sheets of drywall on the sheathing.
Like any other electrical installation work, you should start by developing a plan that will indicate what type of wiring will be installed, draw a diagram with the required number of switches, as well as distribution boxes, sockets and other devices. Also, the diagram should indicate places for their installation in such a way that they are convenient to use.

The connection of wires in places where they are broken must be connected only through an adapter block - twisting is unacceptable, especially for wires made of copper or aluminum.
The wires must be marked.
Wires should not come into contact with metal. They can only be laid near pipelines, for example, with gas, at a distance of at least 40 cm.
Laying wires in bundles is prohibited. In addition, it is prohibited to lay wires if the gaps are less than 3 mm between each.
Wires in rooms can only be connected and branched using junction and branch boxes.

Modern decor trends do not imply the use of chandeliers with pendants to illuminate the room. Nevertheless there is successful examples classic style solution, when a chandelier is very appropriate. But, having decided to hang it, you need to take care of strengthening the ceiling structure in the place where this will happen, since gypsum board slabs are not designed to withstand such weight.

Subtleties of operation and care

It is not difficult to care for a gypsum board ceiling. So he long time did not lose its attractiveness, periodically you need to wipe it with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth. If there is a lot of dust, then you can vacuum the ceiling, first making sure that the brush is clean. If in doubt, it is advisable to wash the brush with soap and dry thoroughly. If you neglect this, the brush may leave dark lines on the ceiling.

Lighting sources (whether chandeliers or lamps) also require care. They need to be wiped with a dry, clean cloth, remembering that they are live. If a yellowish coating has formed around the lamps, it can be removed with a special felt-tip pen.

Stains of dust and dirt are removed with a slightly damp cloth or viscose napkin. If the contamination is severe, you can try using dishwashing detergent, and if there are large stains, it is better to refresh the paint layer on the ceiling surface.

To avoid mistakes common to beginners, it is important to consider some features of drywall:

In order for the plaster to release unnecessary moisture, it must rest. That is why some time must pass between the delivery of gypsum plaster boards to the room where installation will take place and the installation itself. Otherwise, the sheets may become deformed.
Work with drywall should be carried out in a room whose temperature is constant and not lower than +10 C. In addition, gypsum board slabs must be kept in these temperature conditions for at least 4 days - two days before installation and two days after, only after 2 days can they be sealed seams.
The main rule is that before cutting, drilling or screwing anything, you need to check and calculate everything. It is not in vain that the installation of a suspended ceiling includes such important stage like design. Only after completing all the calculations, combining the sketch and drawings, and marking the ceiling itself, you need to proceed to action.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Two-level geometric plasterboard ceiling with spot lighting and LED panels.

Original ceiling in the shape of a flower. The lighting goes along the entire perimeter.

A two-level ceiling, the lighting of which combines a chandelier and lamps.

With the help of drywall you can realize a variety of design ideas. Using built-in LED lights on the ceiling, performing several levels and complementing everything with side lighting - these are all the advantages of this type of design. It is possible to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands, although this process is not entirely simple.

But, having carefully studied all the recommendations of specialists and applied them in practice, the work will progress much easier and simpler. For curved figures on a plasterboard ceiling, special patterns are needed to cut out the parts. In this case, you have to bend the sheets and create unusual profiles. All these processes are feasible.

By following the instructions, it is possible to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands

Restrictions on the use of material

In order for the ceiling to be of high quality, it is necessary to purchase suitable plasterboard sheets. In a room where high humidity is not present all the time (bathrooms, kitchens, etc.), in principle, such material can be used. But, in other cases, plasterboard sheets must be moisture-resistant, with a vapor-proof coating. Therefore, the paint and varnish material used to cover the sheets must create a waterproof film.

The use of plasterboard sheets for ceilings is not recommended in rooms where there is no heating. In this case, condensation may form on the surface, and this leads to deformation of the material. It is also risky to install drywall in city apartments, as there is a risk of flooding, after which the ceiling may simply collapse.

If your upstairs neighbors have automatic system to shut off the water supply, then it is advisable to use this installation method.

In general, we can say that plasterboard ceilings are common in apartments. The main thing is that the height of the room allows this, since suspended structures significantly reduce this value. If the room has a height of less than 2 m 40 cm, then you should not make such a ceiling. This value may also decrease due to built-in lamps or other utilities. But, it is possible to use special lighting: You can use flat overheads, saving about 5 cm or only one chandelier.

Calculation of material and components of the ceiling

To make a frame structure for the ceiling, you must first complete a drawing. Mark all the dimensions of the room on it, which will help to significantly reduce the cost of purchased building materials. Calculate the number of profiles for the manufacture of the frame, fasteners, and drywall.

Also, a drawn diagram of the ceiling will help you decide on configurations and the correct calculation of everything needed for installation.

Necessary materials for construction

Before you begin installing drywall on the ceiling, you need to calculate how much material is needed, taking into account its different sizes. This will allow you to make fewer pieces and trims and optimally place the material on the surface. Standard sizes sheets are as follows: thickness from 9.5 mm to 14 mm, and length from 120 to 250 mm.

When placing sheets of plasterboard on the ceiling, it is important to adhere to the following recommendation: do not match the seams and do not place them on the same line; they must be offset by at least 50 cm. This rule applies to both longitudinal and transverse connections. Docking should only be done on a metal profile, and the seam should be in the middle.

The sheet is secured to the CD profile with screws; they should be placed at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the drywall sheet.

The transverse seams must coincide with additional elements main profiles that serve as additional reinforcement of the frame. The step should be observed at intervals of 20 cm. Having found out the exact length of the structure and installed profiles (together with transverse ones), you can calculate the number of screws by multiplying it by 5.

Tools for work

Having everything necessary to complete the process speeds up the work and also ensures high-quality installation and further finishing of the ceiling. What you need to have:

assembly scissors for metal;
grinder for working with metal profiles during the construction of the frame;
fine-toothed hacksaw blade or special tool to cut sheets of drywall;
screwdriver;
perforator;
sandpaper or grater to smooth the end of the cut parts;
special needle roller for perforation;
yardstick;
construction square;
laser level, and in its absence, painted thread for marking the line;
water level at least 2 m 50 cm long;
long rule;
serpyanka for processing seams;
masking tape.

Ceiling markings

This process is very responsible, since the appearance of the installed surface and the strength of the structure itself depend on it. Without following all the rules, a plasterboard ceiling may not be of high quality and will not last long. Rules quality installation is to inspect the surface before starting the work process for height differences.

A level that needs to be used to set the lowest point on the wall will help you do this.

Proceed with ceiling marking, which includes the following processes:

Set a line where the initial profile will be located. In this case, it is worth considering the height if there is an intention to hide it under the structure electric wires or lighting fixtures. This can be a distance from 7 to 15 cm.
Make a mark on a nearby wall with a marker or pencil.
Next, similar lines are marked on other walls using a water level.
After this, all lines should be connected into one continuous line. If all the markings are made correctly, the straight line will coincide.

Then you need to make markings where the supporting guides for the suspended ceiling will be located:

Draw a line along the ceiling parallel to each other at a distance of 1250 mm (this is half a plasterboard sheet).
These lines are a guide for placing hangers on special metal anchors (wedges or dowels).
The installed profiles should run both along the edges of the sheet and in the middle. When marking is carried out, this fact must be taken into account.

The first stage of installation of the ceiling frame

Purchase a narrow metal profile UD-27 and attach it around the entire perimeter of the room. It will serve as guide profiles and hold the CD strips that will be inserted into it.

Also needed for strong fastening of the dowel profile are 5 cm long if the surface is made of heavy material, and also 9 cm if there is a porous surface. The interval for placing fasteners is 35 – 40 cm.

It is necessary to hide all engineering communications behind the suspended ceiling. Then check its performance and reliability under load.

A suspended sheathing is created from CD-6/27 metal profiles 3 m or 4 m long. When installing, an interval of 60 cm is maintained between them, and the length should be a couple of centimeters less than the room to ensure thermal expansion. First, the first profile is mounted on the ceiling close to the wall, and it is inserted along the length into the UD. They are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other. Transverse inserts are made from the same material to make the structure more rigid. The distance between these profiles is also maintained at 60 cm; they are fastened using self-tapping screws. This way the drywall sheets will hold more firmly.

Second stage of installation

To avoid problems with the suspensions, it is important to check how much overlap is inside. If it is hollow, then you should use dowels of a larger diameter (12 mm) and fasten them with thick screws. In the presence of wooden surface Fasteners with a length of at least 60 mm must be used.

CD profiles are suspended on perforated hangers. They have different sizes and it is necessary to select the most optimal option for each individual case. The remaining excess length should be folded. They are placed at intervals of 1 m, mounted on dowels in the ceiling. Fasteners must be 6 mm in diameter and 50 mm long, 2 pcs per hanger.

The connecting parts between the longitudinal profiles and cross members are elements called “crabs”. They perfectly fix intersecting profiles at the same level. Self-tapping screws for fastening CD profiles together with hangers have a length of 10 mm. Their number must be calculated in this way: for each suspension you need 2 pieces, and add 4 more pieces. for each cross member.

In order for the plasterboard ceiling to be even between the profiles, it is best to stretch a cord or fishing line in an amount of 3 to 5 pieces, depending on the size of the room. It is for them that you need to set the CD profile. Secure the cords with screws, attaching them to the end of the UD strip. Place small washers 1 or 2 mm high under them. This is necessary to create a gap between the fishing line and the profile.

Once secured, the CD profile should not touch the cord.

Material cutting and installation

To properly cut a sheet for a plasterboard ceiling you must have:

long rail;
marker or pencil;
sharp knife;
roulette

It’s not difficult to complete this process; the main thing is to do everything step by step:

Draw a line on the sheet and cut the cardboard layer with a knife strictly along it.
Break the material along the line and then cut the cardboard from reverse side leaf.
Sand the unevenness at the end with sandpaper.
It turns out two sheets of plasterboard with smooth edges.

When joining sheets, remove a 1 cm wide chamfer at an angle of 45 degrees.

If you need to make a cut from the edge, you must first put a mark on the cardboard and, using a jigsaw or hacksaw, make a cut in several places in the direction from the edge. Break a piece of drywall and cut the paper from the outside. When making a hole inside a sheet, you need to make a cut on three sides, and then break off the remaining part or saw through all four sides.

Place the prepared pieces onto the finished ceiling frame certain size, so that one edge is pressed tightly against the wall. They are fixed to the profiles with self-tapping screws. They need to be screwed in so that the cap goes in a little and does not stick out. The interval between fasteners should be 20-25 cm. Continue this process until the entire ceiling is sewn up.

Puttying the drywall surface

Completing the fastening of drywall to the profile is not last step in this job. After this, the sheets installed on the ceiling must be primed, puttied and painted. First, you need to fill the joints between the pieces of drywall with a special putty so that the ceiling becomes monolithic and smooth. Painting mesh or serpyanka is used at the joints so that cracks do not appear in this place later. First, the seam is filled 60% with putty, then the serpyanka is laid and covered again with the finished mixture. The mesh should be inside; this is the only way it will hold the solution tightly and prevent cracks.

The areas where the screws are located are also closed in order to veil the resulting holes. To do this, use a small spatula with putty to different directions to hide the indentations. After all, if you don’t do this after applying the first layer of the mixture, it will retract as it dries and you’ll end up with a hole.

After drying, the putty areas must be sanded using a trowel mesh or fine-grained sandpaper.

Apply a layer of primer to a flat, dry surface and allow time to dry. Then cover the entire ceiling in several layers with putty mixture. Allow time for complete drying each time to ensure the surface is smooth and beautiful. Carefully inspect the entire ceiling for any sagging or unevenness. If any defects are found, the ceiling must be cleaned so that it is perfectly smooth and without flaws. Now you can paint.

When installing the ceiling, you should pay attention to the following important points:

the room temperature during operation should not be lower than +15 degrees;
the purchased sheets must be brought indoors and let them lie in a horizontal position for some time to acclimatize;
fasten the screws strictly at 90 degrees and deepen them a few millimeters so that they do not protrude on the surface of the ceiling.