Wooden houses have many advantages, but all wooden buildings dry out and become deformed over time. Shrinkage is given not only log cabins, but also houses made of profiled timber. As a result, cracks and gaps form between the wooden elements (beams or logs), through which the cold penetrates. The caulking of a log house allows you to make your home warm and cozy and prevent loss of precious heat. This is quite specific and hard work, which is the filling of the resulting space with special insulating materials. How is caulk made? wooden house when it is necessary to do it, what types of caulking exist, we’ll talk about this in the article.
The first work that is performed immediately after construction is caulking; and sanding the logs, impregnating the wood with antiseptics, and painting the log house are carried out only after caulking. Our ancestors knew what caulk was and why it was needed, because in Russia houses were traditionally built of wood. But even today caulking has not lost its importance. This procedure solves the following problems:
- When wood dries, cracks and gaps appear in the walls, through which heat escapes, and instead moisture and dampness enter the house. This can cause the development of putrefactive processes in the tree. By caulking you can achieve complete sealing of joints, insulate a wooden structure and prevent rotting.
- Shrinkage of a wooden house does not always occur evenly. Often one wall shrinks more than the other, which leads to a skew of the entire structure. Caulking the walls allows you to level the structure and give the house the correct shape.
- Caulked log houses made of logs and gun carriages are much more durable, since special impregnated materials that do not allow water to pass through are used to seal the seams, which significantly extends the service life of the wood.
Caulking is necessary not only for newly built houses; old wooden buildings also need insulation. Caulking an old log house allows you to seal the cracks that have formed in the logs over time, improve the thermal insulation qualities of the house, and renew the wooden structure.
Some people mistakenly believe that caulking is only necessary in a log house, which is subject to severe shrinkage and deformation, and that it is not necessary to caulk a house made of timber, since the material has already been pre-treated. However, this is not the case; caulking of profiled timber is necessary, since it also shrinks, and as a result, cracks and gaps appear that accumulate moisture, which can provoke the formation of mold and mildew.
Many people are concerned about the question: is it necessary to caulk a house made of timber if it will be insulated? Professional craftsmen give a clear answer: of course it is necessary. When dry profile beam deformation occurs, resulting in the formation large gaps, which, even with external insulation, will let in cold air from the street. The caulking of a log house makes it invulnerable to wind and cold.
The technology for caulking a log house was developed a long time ago, and today it has remained virtually unchanged. Of course, modern industry has made some adjustments to the tools, devices and materials used, but the basic rules for caulking a log house remain the same.
There are two main caulking techniques: stretched and set. In the first method, the insulation is stretched along the log and one end is inserted into the gap using a special tool. Then a roller is formed from the free end of the material, which is used to fill the grooves of the log house. To caulk cracks using the second method, the insulation is wound into a skein, and loops are made from it to clog the holes. This method is best used when there are large gaps between the logs.
The weakest points in a log house in terms of heat loss are the corners. Through them, wind and cold air penetrate into the house. Therefore, the masters give them Special attention. Caulking of log house corners is done different ways depending on the house cutting method.
The greatest difficulty is caused by caulking the corners of the log house into a bowl. There are some nuances here. If the house was built from timber, caulking corner connections made with the same material that was put into the crowns, so that there are no discrepancies in thickness. A house made of rounded logs or carriages is best insulated with jute or linen rope.
How to caulk a log house? This question is far from idle, since the durability and effectiveness of caulking largely depends on the selected material, which must have certain properties. Since ancient times, moss was used to insulate wooden structures. It is still used today for these purposes, but much less frequently, since it is quite expensive material. IN modern construction Most often, caulking of a log house is done with tow, jute or flax. Each material has its own characteristics.
Tow is a coarse flax fiber, but you need to take into account that birds love it very much, so after caulking, the tow will have to be treated against birds. Usually it is treated with a special impregnation, for example, drying oil, which does not change the color of the wood; it can also be painted oil paint. The painted surface provides reliable protection against insects. Another option is to attach finishing materials on top of the tow: decorative rope or rope.
Jute is made from hemp, the material has good hygroscopicity, and even with very high humidity it will remain almost dry. Therefore, jute is usually used to caulk a bathhouse.
Lnovatin – durable material, made from fibers and waste from flax production. It is a wide tape, rolled into rolls in a factory manner. Flax wool has excellent thermal insulation properties, absorbs moisture well and quickly evaporates moisture.
The process of shrinking a wooden house lasts several years, so caulking is carried out in several stages. Rough primary caulking is done immediately after cutting the log house. The building is insulated on both sides (outside and inside) with inter-crown insulation, which is not laid very tightly the first time. First, the external joints are sealed, and only after that it is necessary to caulk the house from the inside. Required condition– caulking is done around the perimeter of the entire house. You cannot caulk one wall and then proceed to the second, third, etc. Caulking raises the original height of the house by about 5-10 cm, so the structure may become distorted.
Repeated caulking is carried out approximately a year and a half after completion of construction. By this time, the structure has almost settled down, so the secondary finishing caulking is done very tightly so that there are no gaps or cracks in the seams between the logs. The last time caulking is carried out is five to six years after construction, when the house has completed its final shrinkage.
In addition to the usual one, there is also decorative caulk, which is performed for purely aesthetic purposes along already caulked seams. Craftsmen finish the log house with rope or decorative rope.
What is the difficulty of self-caulking?
Despite its apparent simplicity, caulking is a job that requires experience and special knowledge. There are many nuances in caulking that are known only professional caulkers. The work is performed exclusively manual method, therefore, the quality of caulking depends entirely on the skill and professionalism of the performer.
Of course you can buy necessary materials and caulk the house yourself, but lack of experience will certainly affect the final result. Many people wonder: can caulk fall out after heating a log house or carriage? It depends on how well the work is done. If during caulking the technology is violated and the insulation is not sufficiently secured, then it is quite possible that after heating it will fall out.
Birds will quickly carry the caulking done ineptly with tow into their nests. Professional craftsmen insert the material in such a way that birds cannot reach it and pull it out. If the sequence of work is violated, the inter-crown material is incorrectly laid, or insulation of different thicknesses is used, deformation of the structure is possible. In this case, you will have to caulk the house again. As for labor costs, caulking is not an easy job; an amateur will have to put in a lot of effort and spend quite a lot of time to caulk his house.
Professional caulking from the company “Master Srubov”
Insulating a log house and giving it a unique flavor is a job that will be performed at a high quality level by specialists from our company. The craftsmen have many years of experience and the necessary work skills, have specialized education and numerous reviews from grateful clients who appreciated the golden hands of professional caulkers.
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In our work we follow the traditions of old masters and also use modern instruments and equipment, we use proven certified materials, which together allows us to maintain a high quality bar. We will carry out caulking of any complexity and volume at an affordable cost. To contact us, visit the page where you will find our details.
Many are already looking at wooden houses in the form of a log house. After all, they look beautiful and are quite warm inside. After all, during the construction of a building, insulation is laid between the crowns of logs, this gives additional confidence in the quality of the log house.
But several years pass and after the house has completely settled, all sorts of cracks and crevices appear. This not only makes the house cold but also spoils appearance. In addition, unclosed cracks are the places where mold and rot will first appear, which will subsequently lead to damage to the building.
To prevent this from happening, after the building shrinks, the log house is caulked. There are several methods for this procedure depending on the selected material; in this article we will look at them.
Material for log caulking
Log caulking can be made from various materials. If insulating jute was used when assembling the building and its ends protrude properly, then this will be sufficient to carry out the necessary manipulations as described below and additional material you won't need it.
If no insulation was used when assembling the log house or its ends do not protrude from the cracks, you will have several options regarding the choice of material.
The oldest method is caulking with moss. Although it is time-tested, today there are many modern materials who have more best qualities for this purpose.
Tow is also very often used for these purposes. To ensure the quality of work is as good as possible, you need to choose jute tow. It will lay down evenly, and it will be easier to work with.
Caulking with rope is often used, and it is recommended to use jute or linen rope.
IN Lately the so-called warm seam. This is the result of new technologies that are rapidly advancing especially in the construction industry.
Technology of caulking a log house with jute
To perform caulking we will need:
- Small hammer – 300 – 400 gr.
- Chisel 20 mm.
- Caulk trowel or wide chisel
- Rubber mallet
The caulking of the log house must be done after the building has settled and shrinked. First, during assembly, jute insulation must be laid between the crowns. The caulking process involves turning the jute with a spatula from top to bottom and then compacting it in the groove between the logs. In this case, light blows of the hammer are made on the shoulder blade. You will end up with a folded strip of jute in the form of a rope, which is very practical.
The work is carried out in two stages - primary caulking and main caulking. It is necessary to take into account that caulking of a log house is carried out only after the house has settled; for this it must stand for at least half a year.
Primary caulking is done without strong compaction, especially in those places where the logs have not yet settled into place. In such places, the jute is tucked without compaction, but care should be taken to leave room for further shrinkage of the logs. Caulking a log house, its technology is not very complicated, so we will look at it in detail below.
Caulking must be done sequentially - from bottom to top. First of all, the lower groove around the perimeter of the building will be caulked, then the second groove, etc. It is important to do everything along the perimeter, otherwise caulking a separate wall may cause the building to warp. We also need to take into account that the higher we rise, the less we need to seal the grooves with jute. And the very top two or three grooves are tucked only with the help of a spatula, without hammer blows, this is done in order to avoid the slightest compaction of the jute.
The fact is that the log house will shrink for at least another five years, so the upper crowns will eventually crush the jute tightly themselves.
In the log house, the ends are the most weakness, because of the cut out bowls, so you need to caulk carefully, without unnecessary effort.
The second caulking, the main one, is carried out together with the finishing, where the caulking of the log house is carried out more tightly. It is advisable to carry out this operation no less than a year and a half after the construction of the building. During this time, the log house will shrink almost completely and, without fear, you will be able to install windows and doors, carry out electrical work and install plumbing.
Periodically, you need to inspect the log house for cracks, especially after a hot summer. After all, even a small gap can lead to wood rotting.
Video instructions for caulking a log house with jute:
This method is not the best today, because there are already many other modern materials that allow you to perform this procedure more quickly and with better quality. But if you decide to use moss for caulking, first of all you need to choose it correctly.
So, moss called “cuckoo flax” or it is also called “red flax” is suitable for caulking a log house. It has long fibers, brownish Brown, with shades of red. “White moss” is also used, or its correct name is “sphagnum moss”. This moss is very soft, similar to cotton wool. Has excellent antiseptic and bactericidal properties. It will never harbor wood pests; moss also kills all fungal spores. Both of these plants are often called construction types moss.
During the construction of a log house, it is laid between the crowns of logs as insulation. In the future, using moss, you can caulk it. This is done twice, the first time immediately after assembly, the second time after some time has passed when the house has settled. This can take from one and a half to two years, or even more.
The moss must first be dried before caulking. And before the process itself, it needs to be moistened with water, otherwise it will crumble upon physical contact.
Caulking timber with moss requires and special tools, you will need:
- Kiyanok
- Caulker
A caulk is a small blade made from the same wood as the frame. This is done so that upon physical contact with the logs they have the same hardness, which will avoid leaving marks on the log house.
Mallet is a small wooden hammer, with the help of which blows are applied to the caulk. This allows you to push the moss into the cracks with greater force and fill the free space more tightly.
As in other technologies, caulking begins from the very bottom, going through the entire perimeter. This approach will avoid possible distortion of the building. First they pass the crown from the inside, and then from the outside.
If “cuckoo flax” moss is used, it is formed into a strip up to 10 cm thick, laid parallel to the log and the gap is tightly caulked using the above tools. White moss when used, they fluff up a little, laying is done perpendicular to the log, so that the fibers hang down by about 5 - 10 cm. Then they make caulking using the same tools.
Caulk of a log house with a rope
The technology for using rope for caulking is not much different from the above methods. The only thing that needs to be added is that this material needs to be treated more carefully, because it is used not only for insulating the house but also for decorative design, so even light damage is unacceptable.
Caulking a log house with rope, stages:
- The places where the rope will be laid must be cleaned and even washed if possible.
- Treat the log house with antiseptic properties, it is desirable that they have fire retardant properties.
- We make rope piercing of the log house using tools. This work is done carefully, making sure that the cord does not twist. Also make sure that the driving depth is the same everywhere.
- As with other materials, work is carried out from the bottom up along the entire perimeter.
- The undoubted advantage of using jute rope is its decorative component.
Warm seam technology
Before using this method, the seams where this technology will be used must be cleaned. Especially if the cracks are painted with varnish or other materials.
Next, vilotherm must be placed in the cracks and cracks - this is a cord-shaped material made of polyethylene foam. Please note that the cord should be about a third thicker than the slot. This material not only insulates the log house, but will also reduce the consumption of the sealant used.
The sealant is applied with a gun and immediately leveled with a spatula. The recommended sealant thickness is from 4 to 6 mm. Moreover, the adhesion area with wood must be at least 4 mm. from each side. The sealant hardens in no more than a day, so during this time it must be protected from precipitation. For this purpose you can use plastic film. Complete hardening of the substance will occur in approximately 48 hours at a temperature of 23 degrees. Once cured, the sealant turns into a rubber-like substance, so your log house will be as protected as possible.
Now, after complete drying, you can smooth the seam, remove any excess and paint with acrylic-based paints.
Caulking a log house in this way can only be done after the log house has shrunk. This work can be done outside in about a year, but inside the house only after a season with the heating on.
This technology has a number of advantages:
Only done once.
Protects against water ingress, which prevents mold.
Makes your home significantly warmer.
Resistant to temperature changes, not afraid of moisture.
Easy to use, which allows you to significantly speed up the caulking of timber.
A beautiful appearance that allows you to veil even the shortcomings of the building itself.
Houses made of timber have a lot of features that distinguish them from buildings made of other materials. One of them is that after construction is completed, the house begins to dry out. This process is inevitably accompanied by a change in shape and the appearance of gaps between the crowns. These openings open the way for cold air from the street, which, when meeting warm air condensation forms from the house. As a result, mold and even rot can occur in the premises.
Shrinkage is a natural process and therefore cannot be prevented. Even logs and beams that have been dried according to all the rules will certainly shrink. The only thing that remains for the owner is to fight the formation of cracks. It is for this purpose that caulking is carried out - a necessary procedure during which the gaps that arise between logs or beams are manually sealed.
Materials for caulking
For all the time that a person has been engaged in construction wooden houses, he was able to compile a list of the most effective insulation materials, the best among which are natural materials:
- felt;
- red moss;
- tow.
But before you start caulking the log house, you need to prepare the selected material in a special way.
Red moss was also used by our ancestors. It has not lost its relevance in our time. If you decide to opt for this traditional material for insulating a house or bathhouse, then you need to learn how to properly caulk a log house with moss. Moss is rot-resistant and antibacterial, but if it's too wet, then after caulking the wood will begin to rot.
Very dry moss also has its drawbacks - it will not be possible to make high-quality caulk with it, since it will inevitably crumble and break. To make it suitable for use, it must be moistened. The main disadvantages of this insulation are related to the difficulties when laying it on beams. This problem is easily solved by mixing moss with tow.
Tow is one of the most popular building materials. This excellent thermal insulator is made from flax and hemp waste. Tow, like moss, perfectly protects wood from rotting.
Felt cannot be called the most suitable material for log caulking. The reason for this is that it is more susceptible to rotting than all other insulation materials and has very low strength. In addition, before use, felt must be soaked in formaldehyde or another product that can protect against moths. Otherwise, after some time you can find in the felt a large number of moth larvae that will happily eat this heat insulator.
When building houses and baths from logs, not only traditional, but also modern thermal insulation materials are used, the most famous of which are jute and flax wool.
Jute is a modern insulation material made from shrubs of the linden family. The material has a lot of positive qualities - high strength, density, resistance to moths and rot, and low hygroscopicity. Jute is not able to absorb wood moisture, but releases it well when the wood dries out.
In room, where is the air humidity supported quite high level(from 80% and above), jute insulation will effectively perform its task. Remaining dry, jute not only perfectly protects the wood from rotting, but also insulates the log house, maintaining a healthy microclimate in the house.
In stores you can find another material with a similar name, which is often identified with jute. We are talking about jute fiber, which has little in common with jute and differs from it not only in appearance, but also in workmanship and cost.
Jute tape is soft to the touch and very pliable material. It is used mainly when sealing the crowns of houses made of timber, as well as around doors and windows in combination with various impregnations. It is also used to seal gaps and cracks in wood and concrete. It can also be laid on wet beams.
Manufacturers produce jute tape in skeins different thicknesses and width. U professional builders this material is very popular, because, according to their words, this is the easiest and clean way insulation. A significant advantage of this material is the ability to quickly perform caulking, since the insulation can be immediately laid on the frame.
Linen wool differs from jute in its composition. For its production, only flax fibers are used. However, this does not prevent it from demonstrating the same performance properties as jute tape, although it is more rigid in structure. In stores, flax wool is offered in the form of rolls, which makes it very convenient for caulking in stretch.
Tools for work
Before you start caulking a log house, you need to resolve the issue of a log caulking tool.
For insulation log houses use devices made of metal and steel. Some owners perform this operation using homemade devices, made from a block of oak, walnut or beech.
Particular attention should be paid to the handle of the tool, which should be made of embossed rubber. The tool intended for caulking must have a non-sharp blade, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the insulation used. In addition, the tool should not have any roughness, otherwise the material may catch on them and be removed from the gap.
To fill the insulation, use a tamping hammer - a mallet..
Gap sealing technology
Caulking a log house is a simple technological process that you can do yourself. This is one of the important stages of building a house, which involves a number of stages.
Caulking begins with sealing gaps in the walls of the house at the stage of its assembly. Primary insulation is not able to completely eliminate all seams. After all, upon completion of construction, a house made of timber undergoes shrinkage and drying out, which inevitably leads to the appearance of new gaps.
With the onset of cold weather, precious heat begins to escape through them, which negatively affects comfortable living. In the bathhouse, because of this, the temperature in the steam room quickly decreases. In addition, the heat lost at low temperatures causes the appearance of frost with outside facade. This excess humidity negatively affects the condition of the wood.
All this forces re-caulking after shrinkage of the walls of a wooden structure already 6 months after completion construction work. During this time, the timber manages to dry by 90%. The time required for shrinkage depends on several factors - the quality of the material, the time of its preparation, humidity and weather conditions. The complete shrinkage of the structure is completed in 3 years. The final third caulking is carried out before finishing the walls, when the log house has completely shrunk.
Houses made of rounded logs differ in many respects from buildings made of logs. Because of perfect shape and the size of the gaps in the logs turn out to be very narrow. But even in this case, caulking is necessary. Although there's no way around it on our own It won't work anymore. You will have to seek help from specialists. After all, you can overdo it and stuff small gaps with too much insulation material, and this can cause the walls to warp.
Caulking methods
Caulking of log houses is carried out using two main methods: stretched and set. Sometimes they are used simultaneously. Each of them allows you to use tow as insulation.
Stretch
This method of sealing cracks is used for narrow gaps in a log house. A small amount of tow is applied to the crack, and then stuffed inside using a caulking chisel. But during this operation it is necessary to leave 4-5 cm of free edge. The roller made from tow is wrapped in the remaining free edge, as if intertwining them, after which they are driven into the gap between the crowns using caulk and a hammer.
I would like to draw your attention to the fact that while twisting the roller you need to grab nearby strands. If this is not done, the roller will simply fall out of the slot. You can make sure that the caulking was done well by gently pulling the roller. The work is considered completed correctly if the roller remains in the same place. If, as a result of such actions, you managed to pull it out, this means that the gap was not completely filled.
Included in the set
This caulking method is used primarily for sealing large and wide cracks. First you need to prepare long bunches of tow, form them into skeins, and then cast on loops that fill the gaps. The loop should have a thickness comparable to the size of the gap being sealed. First, you need to stuff the insulation at the top of the gap, helping yourself with caulking, and then move on to sealing the bottom, using a “road builder” as a tool.
Features of the operation
Although caulking a log house is a time-consuming process, it is worth the effort. If it is carried out correctly, the log house will last at least 8 years. But this work must be carried out in accordance with a certain algorithm.
When caulking a log house, you must be extremely careful, trying not to miss any the smallest area. You shouldn't hit it with a hammer too often. One blow should be made per blade width. Therefore, it is best to go through the row again to avoid overstuffing the insulation.
The technology of building log houses has a lot of nuances. One of them is that after completion of construction work the house cannot be considered ready for use. After this, shrinkage occurs, which is a natural process and takes from 6 months to three years. During this time, new gaps appear between the crowns of the log house, which must be eliminated. This is why every owner needs to caulk.
In order to properly seal new cracks, it is necessary not only to choose the right caulking tool, but also insulation. Considering that stores offer a variety of various materials, it is important for the owner to become familiar with the features of each insulation in order to avoid problems both while working with the material and after sealing the cracks.
Caulk of a wooden house – important stage insulation of the finished structure using natural or synthetic heat insulators. Here every detail matters: the right working tool, high-quality insulating material, technology for performing the work. Not all homeowners know how to properly seal roof gaps and joints in order to reduce possible heat loss, avoid distortion of the house structure, and prevent rotting of wood and heat insulation.
Why is caulking of a log house done?
Thermal insulation of a log house helps retain heat in the premises, prevents deformation of the wood and a decrease in its operational parameters. Modern insulation materials They are durable, practical and safe, therefore they provide high-quality caulking for wooden buildings.
Log caulking solves the following problems:
- eliminates cold bridges and reduces heat loss at home;
- corrects construction defects;
- eliminates various flaws in external and internal corners, crowns, door and window openings;
- makes the house more attractive and reliable;
- increases the service life of wood.
When is caulking done?
Caulking a wooden house is carried out in several stages, and this is explained by the gradual shrinkage of the wood. Maximum shrinkage occurs during the first 18 months after completion of construction work and stops after 5 years.
- The first stage of caulking is performed after assembling the log structure. In this case, when building a house thermal insulation material fills the space between the logs so that the edges hang freely on both sides. After installation roofing structure the insulation is driven into the connecting seams between the crowns.
- The second stage of insulation is carried out 1.5 years after the completion of construction work and preliminary shrinkage of the house. The insulating material is laid tightly enough to hide all the gaps and cracks.
- The third stage of caulking is carried out after 5 years, when the process of shrinkage of the log house is considered completely completed. All existing defects between the logs are filled with insulation.
Important! For log house All three caulking steps are carried out, and for a house made of timber, which will be lined with siding on the outside, the third stage of caulking is optional.
Caulking materials
For caulking timber or logs, it is better to use natural insulation materials that have the following characteristics:
- hygroscopicity,
- resistance to temperature changes,
- breathability,
- environmental Safety,
- ease of installation.
Such insulation materials include:
- moss (red and white),
- tow,
- flax wool,
- jute.
Moss
The safest and practical material with excellent antiseptic properties. It provides reliable protection of wood from rotting and biological damage.
Moss (sphagnum) is a reliable material for sealing crown joints: it allows air to pass through well and quickly absorbs excess moisture, prevents the development of pathogenic microorganisms and fungi, thereby increasing the service life of wood.
Moss is resistant to fire and rotting, therefore it is able to maintain its performance characteristics long time. High price- the only drawback of this material.
Self-procurement of raw materials will significantly reduce the cost of thermal insulation of a house made of logs or timber.
Before caulking the walls, the pre-prepared moss must have a suitable level of humidity - not be overly dry or moist.
Tow
Practical and safe material, which is used for caulking crowns after complete shrinkage of the log house. It is made from hemp, jute and flax fibers.
Sold in compressed bales or rolls. Tow in bales has short and hard fibers, which complicate the process of driving crown joints. Tape tow High Quality has long, elastic and soft fibers.
This material has low antiseptic properties, is susceptible to high moisture, and therefore requires additional processing protective impregnations or paints.
The main disadvantages of insulation include the difficulty of installation, the unattractive appearance of the treated seams, and a short service life.
Lnovatin
A natural material for caulking wooden houses, which is produced by pressing short flax fiber into strips. Linen wool has high heat-insulating and moisture-resistant characteristics. Such insulation can provide reliable protection of wood from rotting and mold.
Linen batting is used to seal seams between crowns with fixation on metal staples.
Jute
The highest quality and most durable tape insulation for caulking houses made of logs or timber. The material has high heat-saving properties and is not susceptible to rotting and mold. Even with prolonged exposure to moisture, jute fiber remains practically dry.
Jute is used for primary and secondary thermal insulation of a house. It has high strength, wear resistance, elasticity and practicality. It is placed in interventional seams with fixation with staples.
The only drawback of the material is its high cost.
Caulking tools
If for thermal insulation of a wooden house they are used natural materials, then before caulking you should prepare:
- Mallet. A small wooden or rubber hammer designed for laying insulation using wooden caulks.
- Stacked caulk. Spatula with metal or wooden base, blade width 10 cm, thickness 0.5 cm. This is the main tool for caulking the crowns of a log house.
- Crooked caulk. Curved chisel with flat blade 5 cm wide and 0.5 cm thick. Used to fill corner seams and gaps in rounded areas of the building with insulation.
- Road worker. Triangular blade with special longitudinal groove. The blade width is 17 cm, thickness is from 0.8 to 1.5 cm. The tool is intended for filling gaps of equal width.
- Breaking caulk. A narrowed wedge-shaped blade up to 3.5 cm wide, which allows you to widen the inter-crown gaps for the convenience of laying heat-insulating material.
Important! All caulking blades should be slightly dull and smooth to avoid damaging the wood and pulling the insulation out of the seams. Before starting work, the tools are thoroughly cleaned with a clean cloth.
Log caulking technology
The process of caulking a log house is carried out in stages. There are two caulking methods:
- in a stretch,
- to the set.
It doesn’t matter what method is used to caulk the house, all insulation work begins with lower crown. Next we will look at how to properly caulk a wooden structure.
Stretch
Stretch caulk involves insulating the seams between logs with pre-stretched insulation. For this purpose, fibrous and rolled materials are used.
Fiber insulation
- Work is carried out from the ends of the lower crown. A small part of the insulation (for example, tow or moss) is applied with transverse fibers to the seam and hammered inside with caulking.
- Along the edges, the insulation is rolled up into a small roller and compacted into a crown joint.
- Next, a new portion of insulation is used, which is formed into a roller, and the entire caulking procedure is repeated. This allows for high-quality sealing of the seam along its entire length.
Roll insulation
Dense rolls from roll insulation are much easier to obtain. For uniform distribution, the material is carefully stretched along the entire length of the seam and applied to it across the fibers.
- The tape is unwound on a flat surface from one of the corners to the opposite corner.
- Hooking it up by the free edge, using caulking, the insulation is laid into the inter-crown seam so that the free edges hang down by 5 cm. This way the entire length of the seam is filled.
- After the seam is completely filled, the tape is cut off from the roll.
- The rest of the insulation is driven into large cracks between the logs. The insulated seam must have the same thickness and protrude 3 mm beyond the edges of the grooves.
Included in the set
Caulking in the kit allows you to insulate wide and deep gaps between logs. Here, a larger volume of material is used, and accordingly, the quality of thermal insulation is higher. Tow, hemp rope or jute cord are suitable for this.
- To caulk a log house with jute (the easiest option for beginners), a small amount of material is unwound and folded into loops. Next, each loop is placed into the seam using caulk.
- Hammering loops begins at the top of the seam and then continues at the bottom.
- An additional strand is placed on top of the laid insulation for better insulation. The material is leveled along the entire length of the seam using a road builder.
If desired, insulation of the house in this way can be accelerated. In this case, the heat-insulating material is driven in using a hammer drill. The tool is used at low speed to prevent seam deformation. A pneumatic hammer with a compressor is also suitable for laying insulation.
Caulking corners
The corners in the log house are insulated after the main work is completed.
For this it is better to use roll insulation and crooked caulk. The process works as follows:
- The free edge of the tape insulation is applied to the seam located in the corner and filled with crooked caulk.
- After installing the material, its free edges are rolled up and hammered into the seam.
- All work on laying insulation is carried out from top to bottom. To ensure uniform driving, the material is carefully stretched and straightened.
Decorative caulking
If the main task of caulking is thermal insulation of a wooden structure, then decorative caulking is used to decorate insulated crown joints.
To give the seams of a log house an attractive and harmonious appearance, experts recommend using rope and rope made of jute or flax as finishing.
The rope is carefully fixed to the surface of the seam using galvanized nails without heads, driven into the logs at a distance of 18 cm from each other. Decorative caulk is also suitable for hiding unevenly dried joints between crowns and additional insulation designs.
After finishing the caulking process wooden house should be used as much as possible throughout the year. In winter, a check is made for the formation of new cracks and deformation of the laid insulation.
A year and a half after the first stage of caulking, the second stage is carried out. In this case, a thorough inspection of the structure is carried out, thermal insulation material is added where it has become deformed or fallen out, as well as where new gaps or distortions have appeared in the frame.
Caulking a wooden house is an important and responsible undertaking that requires a competent approach and compliance with all stages technological process. The internal microclimate in the premises and the duration of operation of the house depend on the quality of the work performed.
Caulking a log house is a painstaking process that requires patience and great effort. Everything matters here: the tool, the quality of the material, the sequence of work. Without the appropriate experience, not everyone can properly caulk a log house, so first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology, study caulking methods, and choose the right inter-crown insulation.
Caulking of a log house is carried out in two stages - immediately after construction and after some time, when shrinkage occurs. Primary (or rough) caulking can be carried out in two ways: with laying insulation during the process of assembling the walls or performing one-time work upon completion of construction.
1 way
Lay the bottom row of logs on the base.
Then the insulation is spread on top so that the ends of the material hang evenly on both sides. Next, lay the second crown, and again a layer of insulation. This is repeated until the very top of the log house. After all work on the construction of the log house is completed and the roof is installed, the protruding ends of the seal are driven into the gaps between the beams using caulking.
Method 2
Caulking begins after installation roofing system to the log house Insulation (preferably tape) is applied to the seam of the bottom row and, using a tool, is pushed into the gaps between the logs along the entire length, leaving hanging edges 5-7 cm wide. Then these edges are folded in, formed into a roller and hammered inside the seam. Repeat the procedure in the next row and so on until the top of the structure.
The second stage of caulking is carried out after shrinkage of the log house - after 1-2 years. The selected insulation is applied to the cracks between the crowns and driven tightly inside. You should always start work from the bottom row, and be sure to do it along the perimeter of the log house.
You cannot caulk one wall first, then the second, and so on. In addition, each row is caulked both from the outside and from the inside to avoid distortions in the structure. The insulation raises the frame by 5-10 cm, and its uneven distribution contributes to the vertical deviation of the walls. In some cases, the log house is caulked for the third time - 5-6 years after construction. During this time, the wood completely shrinks and new gaps form.
There are two ways of caulking - “set” and “stretched”. The first is used to eliminate wide gaps between logs, the second is usually used during primary caulking, when the gaps are still narrow.
To work, you need tools - a set of caulking tools, a road worker and a mallet. As a rule, metal caulks are used, although many craftsmen make them themselves from hardwood.
| Name | Description | What is it used for? |
|---|---|---|
| Flat metal or wooden spatula. Blade width 100 mm, thickness 5-6 mm | The main tool for filling gaps between crowns | |
| Flat chisel with a blade width of 50-60 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm | Used to seal seams in corners and rounded areas of a log house |
| The caulk is triangular in shape with a longitudinal groove along the blade. Width - 170 mm, thickness 8-15 mm | Tool for forming even rollers from twisted strands of compaction | |
| Thick and narrow wedge up to 35 mm wide | Widens narrow gaps, making it easier to fill with insulation | |
| Wooden hammer | Used for filling the seal with wooden caulks |
The caulking blades should not be sharp, otherwise when driving the material they will cut it. Pay special attention to the surface of the blades: if it is rough, the insulation fibers will cling and be pulled back out of the seams.
Caulking materials
As interventional insulation The following materials are used:
- red and white moss;
- tow;
- felt;
- jute;
- flax wool
| Type of material | Description |
|---|---|
| Environmentally friendly material with antiseptic properties. If you independently procure raw materials, the costs of insulating the log house will be minimal. It is usually collected late autumn when there are no snails in it and fewer insects. Immediately after collection, the moss is sorted, lumps of earth and debris are removed, and slightly dried. There is no need to dry it too much, otherwise the stems will become too brittle and unusable. Purchased moss must be soaked before caulking to make installation easier. Pros: durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature changes, environmental friendliness, antimicrobial properties, low cost. Cons: difficult to find on the market, requires protection from birds, requires pre-treatment before installation |
|
| Tow is suitable for primary caulk felling and compaction of crowns after shrinkage. It is made from flax fibers, and depending on their quality, it is divided into bale and roll (tape). Rolled fiber consists of shorter and stiffer fibers, which makes it difficult to stuff between the crowns. Tape tow is better in quality, softer and more convenient for caulking. Pros: has low thermal conductivity, does not electrify, is highly absorbent and dries quickly, has bactericidal properties. Disadvantages: labor-intensive installation, unaesthetic appearance of seams after caulking. |
|
| Until recently, natural felt was widely used in the insulation of log houses. Now its composition is supplemented with synthetic and plant fibers, which significantly improve its individual properties. And yet, felt insulation without additives has a number of advantages: it has high vapor permeability, does not allow odors to pass through, provides good noise insulation, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to use, and environmentally friendly. Cons: susceptible to rotting, easily damaged by moths |
|
| Traditional insulation materials are increasingly being replaced by materials such as jute. It is available in the form of fibers, ropes of any thickness, and also in the form of tape. Tape jute is soft and pliable, compacts evenly, and is used for both primary and repeated caulking. It is more convenient to use jute fibers and ropes after shrinkage of the log house. Pros: it is durable, not damaged by moths and other insects, does not rot, and provides a favorable microclimate in the building. Cons: the material cakes quickly, short service life. |
Prices for tow
Primary caulking “stretched”
The whole process is divided into two stages - laying insulation between the logs during the construction of a log house and the caulking itself. The insulation is laid after installation of each crown. If moss is used, it should be slightly damp.
Take a large bunch of moss and lay it in fibers across the log so that the ends of the fibers hang down on both sides by 5-7 cm. The next bunch lies close together.
The fibers must be evenly distributed over the surface, forming a layer of equal thickness. The wood should not show through the moss, so make the insulation layer thicker. It’s better to put in too much than not, because thin layer will not be able to effectively protect the seams from blowing.
If you use tape insulation, installation is much simpler and faster: the tape is rolled out along the crown and secured with the staples of a construction stapler. When the tape runs out, the new piece is overlapped by 5 cm so that there are no gaps at the joints. After the entire row around the perimeter is covered with insulation, the second crown is installed.
So, the log house has been erected, the roof has been installed, and the walls can be caulked.
The procedure for caulking and sealing cracks after shrinkage of a log house
It is more convenient if the insulation is tape, then forming a roller out of it is much faster. When twisting the material, it must be slightly stretched along the seam, which promotes greater compaction and uniform distribution of the insulation. Sometimes the thickness of the roller is not sufficient to fill the gap, then they take additional strands and wrap them in the hanging ends of the material. After this, the thickened roller is driven into the gap.
If during the construction process insulation was not laid between the logs, caulking is performed in the manner described above, only more material will be needed. It is necessary to apply it to the seams with the fibers across. The longitudinal arrangement of the fibers will not provide the required density; the material will not be able to be firmly fixed and will constantly crawl out of the grooves. When choosing a tape compactor, make sure that the width of the tape is several centimeters greater than the thickness of the log. Edges that are too short are difficult to tuck, and therefore the quality of caulking will be poor.
- The edge of the tape is laid on the ground near the corner of the log house and retreated along the wall, unwinding the roll. The material cannot be pulled, it should simply lie in an even strip on the ground. It is very important that the tape does not twist during the unwinding process. Having reached the second corner, the roll is also left lying, nothing is cut off yet.
- Return to the beginning of the tape, take it by the edge and place it over the seam. Using a caulking blade, press the tape in the middle, leaving the edges to protrude by 5-7 cm. In this way, the entire inter-crown seam is passed.
Insert insulation into the seam
- Measure out another 25-30 cm of tape and only then cut it off the roll. This reserve will allow you to hammer the grooves more tightly without adding insulation.
- Now, little by little, straightening and tucking the edges of the material, they begin to caulk the seam. The tape should completely disappear into the gap between the logs along with the reserve.
- As a rule, one layer of tape is not enough for high-quality filling, so everything will have to be repeated two or even three more times.
- The finished seam should protrude from the grooves no more than 3-4 mm and be of uniform thickness.
Prices for caulk
caulk
If the gaps between the crowns are very wide, caulking is used “in a set”. For these purposes, tow, hemp ropes or jute cords are used. Long strands are formed from tow and wound into a ball. Finished cords or ropes are also wound into balls for convenience.
Start from the edge of the lower crown:
- clear the gap, removing loose chips and debris;
- unwind a small amount of cord, fold it into loops and push it into the gap with caulk;
- seal the loops first in the upper part of the gap, then in the lower part;
- put another strand on top, now without loops, and level it with a road maker.
Further along the seam, the strands are laid in one layer until the next gap. The more densely the voids are clogged, the better the insulation. Try not to leave hanging fibers: firstly, they spoil the appearance of the wall, and secondly, the seal can be pulled away by birds. Having finished caulking the first row, they move on to the second, and everyone repeats in exactly the same way.
To make the log house decorative, you can hammer a jute cord along the entire length of the seams.
Caulking corners
The corners are caulked separately after the work on the walls is completed. It is also more convenient to use tape insulation here.
Since the seams between the logs at the corners have a semicircular shape, you will need a curved caulk.
Step 1. The tape is positioned vertically. Take it by the edge, apply it to the corner seam and press it inward with caulk. They step back a little and drive the material into the gap again.
Step 2. As soon as the insulation has been secured a little, they begin to tuck the protruding edges and drive them deeper into the cracks.
Step 3. After filling and leveling the top seam, move on to the second. The material must be constantly straightened and stretched a little so that it lies more evenly.
This is how the entire corner is sequentially compacted. The seams should not protrude more than 5 mm, otherwise the appearance will be sloppy.
Video - How to caulk a corner of a log house
Caulking a log house with sealants
Caulking of log houses with special sealants, which are easy to apply, give the seams a very aesthetic appearance and reliably protect against blowing, is gaining popularity. If the log house is made of rounded logs or laminated veneer lumber, and jute is laid as insulation between the crowns, you can only use sealant and a rope made of foamed polyethylene. Sealing of seams is carried out no earlier than shrinkage of the log house occurs.
Step 1. The joints between the logs are cleaned of dust and clogged debris and wiped dry with a rag.
Step 2. A primer primer is applied along the perimeter of the seams using a brush or sprayer. If work is carried out in winter, the primer should be rubber-based, summer time- on the water.
Step 3. After the primer has dried, a rope of foamed polyethylene is inserted into the seams, the diameter of which is selected according to the width of the gap.
Step 4. Apply sealant. They use the composition in tubes, which is applied using mounting gun, in buckets and in the form of a tape. The last option is very easy to use: remove the tape from one side protective film, apply to the seam, press with your hand and roll with a roller.
Step 5. After sealing all inter-crown joints, remove the outer layer of film so that the sealant hardens. Finally, the joints are coated with colorless varnish or a tinting compound is applied, depending on the color of the sealant.
When applying the composition with a spatula or from a tube, the sealant should be smoothed and excess should be removed with a damp cloth.
If the logs for the log house were harvested by hand, more uneven gaps will form during shrinkage. Here, one sealant and a polyethylene cord will not be enough. In such cases, caulking is performed traditional way, after which the seams are sealed with sealant. After such treatment, there is no need for subsequent caulking.
Video - How to caulk a log house