The right frame. The sequence of manufacturing racks and assembling frames for interior doors. What is a door rack

This topic is a copy-paste from various sources, and I create it more for myself: so as not to wander around various sites that use these texts. But I didn’t find the original source. I will try to edit it, cut off all the water as much as possible, and bring it to a convenient readable form.
In no way am I imposing any opinion here, I’m just creating a bookmark that I’m going to use myself in the future, and I hope that some of the forum participants this topic will come in handy. So, let's go!

Let's start with a small digression on the terms “correct” and “incorrect” frame.

Which frame house is “correct”?

A frame house is a large constructor with many solutions, some of which can be called correct, some “semi-correct,” but there are generally a great many “wrong” ones. Nevertheless, among the variety of solutions, one can single out those that are usually meant when speaking about the “correctness of the frame.” These are American and Scandinavian type frames. The vast majority of private houses for permanent residence in America, and a very significant percentage in Scandinavia, are built precisely according to frame technology. This technology has been used there for decades. During this time, all possible cones have been filled, everything has been sorted out possible options and a certain universal scheme was found that says: do this and with a 99.9% probability everything will be fine. Moreover, this scheme is the optimal solution for several characteristics:

• Constructive reliability of solutions.
• Optimal labor costs during construction.
• Optimal cost of materials.
• Good thermal characteristics.

Whenever there is talk about " correct“frame or about the “correct” components of a frame house, then, as a rule, this means standard solutions and components used in America and Scandinavia. And the frame itself satisfies all of the above criteria.

What kind of frames can be called " semi-regular"? These are mainly those that differ from typical Scandinavian-American solutions, but, nevertheless, also satisfy at least two criteria - design reliability and good solutions in terms of heating engineering.

Well, to " wrong"I would include all the others. Moreover, their “wrongness” is often conditional. It is not at all a fact that the “wrong” frame will necessarily fall apart. Such a scenario is actually extremely rare, although it does occur. Basically, the “wrongness” lies in some controversial and not the most best solutions. As a result, things get complicated where things can be done easier. Used more material there, the structure is colder or inconvenient for subsequent work.

The main disadvantage of “wrong” frames is that they provide absolutely no gains compared to “correct” or “semi-correct” ones - neither in reliability, nor in cost, nor in labor costs.

Key features of the American frame

American frame- practically a standard. It is simple, strong, functional and reliable as an iron saw. It is easy to assemble and has a large margin of safety. It can be called a standard in terms of price, reliability and results.

"Correct" frame houses are made without the use of timber and only from dry lumber. All racks, strapping, etc. are made only from dry planed boards.

Timber in racks and frames is almost never used, unless this is due to some specific conditions. Therefore, the first thing that distinguishes a “correct” frame house is the use of dry lumber and the absence of timber in the walls.

Let's look at the main points that distinguish the American frame scheme:

1. Angles - there are several different schemes implementation of corners, but nowhere will you see timber as corner posts.
2. Double or triple racks in the area of ​​windows and doorways.
3. The reinforcement above the openings is a board installed on the edge. The so-called “header” (from English header).
4. Twin top harness from a board, no timber.
5. The overlap of the lower and upper rows of trim at key points - corners, various fragments of walls, places where internal partitions join external walls.

Ukosina is not a distinctive point, since in an American frame, if there is cladding OSB3 boards(OSB) on the frame, there is no need for miters. The slab can be considered as an infinite number of jibs.

Correct corners of a frame house
I will highlight three main angle patterns:

Option 1– the so-called “California” angle. The most common option. From the inside, another board or strip of OSB is nailed to the outer post of one of the walls. As a result, a shelf is formed on the inside of the corner, which subsequently serves as a support for the interior decoration or any internal layers of the wall.
Option 2 – closed corner. Also one of the most popular. The essence is an additional rack in order to make a shelf on internal corner. Among the advantages: the quality of insulation of the corner is better than in option 1. Among the disadvantages: such a corner can only be insulated from the outside, that is, this must be done before sheathing the frame with anything from the outside (slabs, membrane, etc.)
Option 3– “Scandinavian” warm corner. A very rare option, not used in America. I have seen it in Scandinavian frames, but not often. Why did I bring him then? Because, in my opinion, this is the warmest corner option. But you need to think before using it, since it is structurally inferior to the first two and will not fit everywhere.

What is unique about all three of these options and why is timber a bad option for a corner?

In all three options The corner can be insulated from boards. Somewhere more, somewhere less. In the case of timber in a corner, we have two disadvantages at once: firstly, from the point of view of heating engineering, such a corner will be the coldest. Secondly, if there is a beam in the corner, then there are no “shelves” on the inside to attach the interior trim to it.

Correct openings in a frame house
When they talk about the correct openings in a frame house, they usually mean the following diagram (window and door openings follow the same principle):

First ( picture 1), what people usually pay attention to when talking about “wrong” openings are double and even triple racks on the sides of the opening. It is often believed that this is necessary to somehow strengthen the opening for installing a window or door. Actually this is not true. A window or door will be fine on single posts. Why then do we need cohesive boards?

Everything is elementary. Remember when I said that the American frame is as simple and reliable as an iron saw? pay attention to figure 2. And you will understand that solid racks are needed solely to support the elements lying on them. So that the edges of these elements do not hang on nails. Simple, reliable and versatile.

On Figure 3- one of the simplified varieties, when the lower frame of the window crashes into a torn mullion. But at the same time, both window frames still have supports at the edges.

Therefore, it is impossible to say formally that if the racks are not doubled, then this is “wrong”. They can also be single, as in the Scandinavian frame. The mistake is when the racks along the edges of the openings are solid, but do not bear the load from the elements resting on them. In the version, as in the figure below, they are simply meaningless: the horizontal elements hang on fasteners, so there is no point in doubling or tripling the racks on the sides.

Now let's talk about an element that is already more critical and the absence of which can be considered as an “incorrectness” of the opening. This is a “header” above the opening (English header - title, header).

As a rule, some kind of load will come from above onto the window or doorway - the floor joists of the second floor, rafter system. And the wall itself is weakened by deflection in the area of ​​the opening. Therefore, local reinforcements are made in the openings. In fact, this is a board installed on edge above the opening. It is important that the edges of the header either rest on the posts (if the classic American scheme with solid opening posts is used), or are cut into the outer posts if they are single. Moreover, the cross-section of the header directly depends on the loads and dimensions of the opening. The larger the opening and the stronger the load on it, the more powerful the header. It can also be double, triple, increased in height, etc. - depending on the load. But, as a rule, for openings up to 1.5 m in width, a header made of 45x195 boards is quite sufficient.

Is it possible to do without a header? This depends on the load falling on the opening from above. For example, a narrow window in a one-story house and the rafters in this section of the wall are located along the edges of the opening - the load from above on the opening is minimal and you can do without a header.

Double top harness
The double strapping again provides reinforcement along the top of the wall for deflection from the load from above - the load from the ceiling, rafters, etc. In addition, pay attention to the overlaps of the second row of strapping:

Why is this particular jib called “correct” and what should you pay attention to?

• This type of jib is installed at an angle of 45 to 60 degrees - this is the most stable triangle. The angle may be different, but this range is best.
• The jib cuts into the top and bottom trim, and not just resting on the counter - that’s enough important point, thus we tie the structure together.
• The jib cuts into every post in its path.
• For each node - adjacent to the harness or rack, there must be at least two fastening points.
• The jib cuts into the edge - this way it works better in the structure and interferes less with the insulation.

Correct Scandinavian frame

The Scandinavian frame, in essence, is the development and modernization of the American one. However, basically, when they talk about a Scandinavian frame, we are talking about the following design:

Corners, jibs - everything here is like the Americans. What should you pay attention to?

1. Single strapping along the top of the wall.
2. Power crossbar embedded in the racks along the entire wall.
3. Single posts on window and door openings.

In fact, the main difference is this very “Scandinavian” crossbar - it replaces both the American headers and the double harness, being a powerful power element.

What, in my opinion, is the advantage of the Scandinavian frame over the American one? The fact is that it places a much greater emphasis on minimizing all kinds of cold bridges, which are almost all solid boards (double strapping, racks of openings). After all, between each solid board, a gap could potentially form over time, which you may never know about. Well, it’s one thing when the cold bridge is the width of one board, and another question is when there are already two or three of them.

The disadvantage of the Scandinavian frame is that it is slightly more complex, at least in the fact that in all racks you need to make cuts for the crossbar. And the fact is that, unlike the American one, it does require some kind of mental effort. For example: large openings may require double racks to support horizontal elements, and additional crossbars and headers. And somewhere, for example, on the gable walls of one-story buildings, where there is no load from the joists or roof, perhaps a transom is not even needed.

Summarize

The American-Scandinavian frame scheme is usually called “correct”, due to the fact that it has already been tested many times on thousands of houses, proving its viability and the optimal ratio of “labor-input-reliability-quality”.

“Semi-regular” and “irregular” include all other types of frames. In this case, the frame can be quite reliable, but “suboptimal” in terms of the above.

Understanding what is commonly called "correct" frame house, you can much faster understand who is in front of you - builders who really know the basics of modern frame house construction, or self-taught people who have no desire to improve their skills.

When starting to install the interior structure, prepare the materials and tools required for this. This will reduce the duration of work and improve its quality. It is advisable to cut all the elements of the frame of the interior structure to size in advance, preparing a beam of suitable length. Remember that the frame, like the door leaf, can be made of various materials. Before choosing a timber, check out all available options to decide which is better.

Materials used in making boxes

In order for an interior door to last a long time, you need to correctly install and select suitable material for the manufacture of all structural elements. Typically, to make an interior door frame, the following is used:

• Fiberboard. Although distinguished by its presentable appearance, such material does not always become ideal option for making boxes due to low strength. There is a high probability that during operation the stand will begin to bend under the influence of applied loads. Especially if the weight of the door leaf turns out to be significant. If you are using this material, refuse to install the door from natural wood or MDF;
• Untreated wood. The material is similar in cost to fiberboard, but in this case, dry profiled timber, which is highly durable, is used to make the box. If there is a choice, instead Fiberboard is better purchase untreated timber. Considering the condition of the surface of the assembled box, take care in advance about the materials for processing the timber. It is also advisable to purchase a composition that will prevent rotting and warping of the door material under the influence of moisture;
• Laminated wood. In this case, the surface of the timber for making the box is initially covered with a layer of decorative paper. The service life of the box and the interior system as a whole largely depends on the characteristics of the latter. If the thickness of the laminated layer is insufficient, characteristic scratches and abrasions will soon appear on the surface of the timber, which will worsen the appearance of the box. Sometimes they appear already during the installation of the door.

The choice of material used to make the frame depends on where the specific interior door will be located. When it comes to a bedroom or office, you don’t have to worry and feel free to purchase fiberboard if you are satisfied with its characteristics and appearance. For other rooms, it is recommended to purchase a wooden beam, which is better suited for making a stand door frame.

Types of door leaves

Doors on the market are presented in a wide range, which creates certain difficulties when choosing suitable option. When choosing, it is important to know what technology was used in the production of the canvas, since the installation procedure depends on this. Typically, interior doors are made of wood, MDF and fiberboard. There are also combined options.

Door made of fiberboard

The door made of fiberboard has frame structure. In the process of its manufacture, to the frame from natural wood laminated fiberboard sheets are attached. This door has an affordable price. It does not create problems during the installation process, which can be done on our own. That is why preference for fiberboard products is given by those people who decide to install door design on one's own.

For those who do not intend to replace the door in the next 10-15 years, it is recommended that they avoid purchasing fiberboard panels. Such a canvas can be easily damaged during installation or subsequent operation. Even careful attitude does not guarantee that after a couple of years the door will not lose its presentable appearance. In addition, fiberboard is afraid of moisture.

MDF door

The best option in terms of combination of price and quality. Products made from MDF are durable, not afraid of moisture, and therefore can be installed in rooms with high humidity. Provide an acceptable level of sound insulation. You can also do the installation of an MDF door yourself. Wherein installed structure will definitely last longer than a fiberboard door.

Door made of wood

Door from natural material It has undeniable advantages from point of view appearance and performance characteristics. However, the high cost of such products forces buyers to pay attention to cheaper products. In addition, there are certain requirements to the installation process. Considering that a solid wood door is heavy, it is attached to strong hinges.

Assembly and installation of the box

Choosing timber for interior doors, from which the stand and other elements of the box will be made, make sure that its humidity corresponds regulatory requirements. Otherwise, some difficulties may arise when operating the interior door. After a while, the canvas will definitely begin to jam, and then stop opening altogether.

Web size control

Even before purchasing, make sure that the geometry of the canvas is correct. Even if visual inspection there is a feeling that all sides are equal, check this with a tape measure. Sometimes manufacturers offer canvases in which opposite sides differ by only 2 mm.

It would seem that the difference is relatively small, but during installation it is very difficult to eliminate such an error. Especially if you purchased a budget model of an interior door. In such a situation, you will have to figure out how to ensure a uniform gap along the entire perimeter of the canvas. Sometimes the task may turn out to be impossible, and you will have to either hang the door in the shape it is or purchase a new one.

Before installing the canvas in the box, prepare mounting hole under lock and key. Perform the work extremely carefully so as not to damage decorative coating interior door. If this does happen, it is worth trying to repair the canvas. Otherwise you will have to buy a new one.

An example of calculating the dimensions of box elements

For example, let’s take a door with a standard leaf 2 m high and 80 cm wide. Such products are installed in most living rooms and offices. To install it, a box of suitable size timber is first assembled. The beam is taken slightly longer than the height and width of the doorway. When ordering moldings, carefully calculate the required quantity. A stand formed from two elements will have lower strength characteristics compared to a product made from solid timber.

In order for the post to be installed in a specific doorway, it must first be measured correctly and then cut. Before adjusting the stand to the dimensions of the box, make cuts in the upper part at an angle of 45°. This is where the box beam will be connected. The tightness of the fit of the structural elements depends on how smoothly and accurately the cut is made. Better job perform using miter saw. WITH hand hacksaw and only professionals can handle the wort.

Considering that initially the stand is larger than the required size, it will have to be trimmed. When calculating the final length, the size of the upper and lower gap is taken into account. A minimum of 4 mm is left between the top end of the door and the frame. Bottom - 1 cm to install interior design could work properly. Both posts must be the same size.

Attention! By adding together the height of the canvas and the gaps, you get inner size racks. This should definitely be taken into account! In the example given, the internal size of the cut beam will be 2.014 m.

When determining the size of the lintel, follow the same principle. To the width of the door leaf, add the size of the gap between the door and the side posts. The latter should be about 4 mm. As a result, the length of the lintel will be 808 mm (it is determined by inside). To ensure that the lintel fits tightly to the counter, make cuts on both sides at an angle of 45°, carefully controlling the beginning of the cut.

The procedure for assembling and installing the door frame

The frame is assembled before the door installation begins. Installation requires special equipment and tools. The work is done on the floor. The elements of the box are connected to each other with self-tapping screws with a flat press head. If we are talking about rectangular box, the beam should be located at a right angle.

Attention! If MDF is used instead of timber, mandatory First, drill holes for installation. If this is not done, installation will be difficult and the material may burst.

Once the box is assembled, begin its installation. Taking into account the operating conditions of the door, the frame is fixed in doorway as reliable as possible. Otherwise, there is a high probability that if the sash slams suddenly, the interior structure will simply fall out due to improper installation.

The box is fixed at three points, having previously ensured its spatial position. The longitudinal beam must be strictly vertical to prevent jamming of the door leaf. To make it easier to fix the box in the opening, you can use pegs suitable thickness. Self-tapping screws are tightened in the places where the hinges and the mating part of the lock are installed. Considering that the elements listed above will be located on top, the fasteners will be invisible.

After the box is fixed with self-tapping screws, the gap that necessarily forms during the installation process between the vertical beam and the wall is foamed. The foam is poured in several stages, waiting until the previous layer has completely dried.

After the installation of the box is completed, the installation of the canvas begins. The hinges are attached to it in advance, then hanging the door will not take much time. If at this stage the sash jams or the lock does not open/close well, you must immediately correct the errors made during the installation process. If this is not done, the door will soon stop working normally and the installation will have to be repeated again.

To properly assemble the frame for an interior door, you should prepare the tools in advance and required quantity material. The timber must be of a suitable size and have necessary characteristics. Following the advice of professionals, you will quickly assemble the box, install it in the opening and hang the sash. If everything is done correctly, the interior door will last a long time and will not deform.

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Introduction

In this article I will tell you how to assemble a door frame, namely how to cut and assemble a door frame in two different versions:

• Wash down the boxes at 45°
• I washed the boxes down at 90°.

Door frame assembly

Door frame with seal

box with seal

Door frame without seal

An interior door consists of a door leaf, hinged hinges, mortise lock or latch, as well as the door frame. As a rule, the door frame for doors of the middle price class is supplied in the form of a do-it-yourself “designer”, that is, in disassembled form. Consists of a box of three profiled wooden beams, covered with veneer or film to match the color of the door leaf. The length of vertical beams is 2100-2200 mm; horizontal beams are 1000-1100 mm. Door frames differ from each manufacturer in their readiness for installation.

Door frame with factory cut 45 degrees.

For some manufacturers, the door frames are already sawed off and cut at an angle of 45°, just to the size of the door leaf and are completely prepared for assembly. But most boxes are delivered unprepared. They need to be prepared.

Let's consider two options for assembling the door frame

Option 1. Sawing and assembling the box at an angle of 45°

Wash down the boxes at 45 degrees

Correct joining of the door frame in the corners

Washed down the boxes on the miter box

The door frame is ready for assembly

• Take two future vertical bars of the box. With a web size of 2000 mm and finishing floor covering at 30 mm, the length of the short side of the beam should be -2000 + 30 + the gap between the canvas and the finished floor: 10-15 mm = 2040-2045 mm.
• Place a mark on the inside of the box beams along the required length of the canvas.
• Saw off the excess at an angle. The cutting angle of the timber should be 135° on the inside or -45° on the outside. The length of both vertical beams of the box must be the same.
• Do the same procedure with a horizontal short beam. The only difference is that you have to saw off from both sides. Be careful with the sizes. The main thing in all carpentry work: Measure twice, cut once.

When marking, do not forget that the gap between the canvas and the box itself should be 3 mm.

Option 2. Assembling the box at an angle of 90°

Assembling the box at an angle of 90°

Door frame view for direct connection

Door frame connection at 90 degrees

Preparing for direct connection boxes

With this assembly option, in the vertical posts of the future box, the so-called box ledge is removed by the thickness of the vertical beam. See picture.

Assembling a door frame step by step

Door frame assembly

Assembling a door frame with a gash

After preparing the box, we begin assembling it.

Place the prepared parts of the box on the floor. Connect the corner joints of the box with screws, two screws in each corner. In door frames sawn at 90°, the self-tapping screws are screwed in at right angles (photo above left). In door frames sawn at 45°, the screws are screwed in at an angle of 45° (photo top right). The box is "almost complete."

In order to maintain parallelism vertical racks and the distance between them matches the size of the door leaf, place the door leaf on the “almost assembled” frame, since it will stand in the opening. Fix the gap between the canvas and the box by inserting identical pieces of hardboard or wedges into the gap.

Fixing the canvas in the box for its correct assembly

Now the box needs to be fixed in this position. There are several ways to do this.

Ways to fix the door frame in the desired position before installation

Method 1. Secure the door frame using thin slats. Nail the slats perpendicular to the posts, using thin nails to the very edge of the vertical posts. There should be two slats: in the middle and at the bottom.

Mounting angle for box assembly

Method 2. Strengthen the joints of the box beams of the future box. Add wide and rigid force angles with holes for fastening to the screws. Screw the force angles, strictly checking the perpendicularity of both vertical and horizontal beams. But I recommend adding another fixing bar to the bottom of the box.

The assembly of the door frame is completed, remove the door leaf from the frame. Assembled box ready for installation.

Do-it-yourself door frame - step-by-step assembly and installation process

The complete door set includes the door leaf, frame and hinges. It can be difficult to purchase a ready-made complete set, so there is nothing left to do but make a door frame with your own hands from profiled timber or entrust this task to specialists. The box, most often, has to be selected separately, and it is not a structure ready for installation, but several elements that need to be adjusted in accordance with the size of the opening, the necessary cuts made and assembled. It is not so easy to assemble a door frame with your own hands, so in addition to tools, it would be nice to have at least a little carpentry skill.

Door frame material

The frame serves not only as a frame for the door leaf, but also as a load-bearing base. The strength of the entire structure and its durability depend on the quality of the material and installation of the product. The choice of material depends on the purpose of the door and the material of the leaf itself. Metal-plastic and metal doors They are usually supplied fully equipped, so we will consider only those cases where the door frame has to be manufactured independently. As a rule, in this case we are talking about two types of material: wood and MDF.

• Natural wood has different densities and is sorted into soft and hard. The cheapest and most popular product is pine, but when it comes to installing entrance doors, you should focus on a harder and more expensive type of wood, for example, oak. It will ensure durability, strength and reliability of the structure.
• MDF is used exclusively for interior doors. If you are going to assemble a box from this material, you should treat all cut edges with nitro varnish to ensure protection from moisture.

Equipment and standard sizes

The door frame consists of several slats: two side, top and bottom, if the design includes a threshold. If the depth of the doorway exceeds the corresponding parameters of the timber, your kit must be supplemented with extensions that will increase the depth of the box.

Standard door block sizes vary in width and height. The correspondence of the parameters of the door leaf, block and opening is indicated in the table.

Do-it-yourself door frame assembly is carried out taking into account the following points:

• There should be a technological gap of 3 mm wide between the inside of the frame and the door leaf along the entire perimeter.
• The gap between the wall and the top of the box must be at least 20 mm.
• The gap between the side planks and the wall is 10 mm from each side. When installing on polyurethane foam, it is necessary to increase the gap to at least 20 mm.
• The gap between the bottom of the sash and the frame or floor depends on the material and location of the structure. For dry rooms, these parameters can vary between 5–15 mm, for wet rooms, in order to ensure ventilation, - 50 mm.

Options for connecting structural elements

The main difficulty in assembling door frames is the process of connecting individual elements. The joining of horizontal and vertical strips of the product can be done in two ways:

1. I washed it down at an angle of 45 degrees. This process is best done with a miter saw, but in the absence of one, a miter box will do.
2. At a right angle of 90 degrees. To cut the workpiece you will need a saw with fine teeth.

The joining of the planks is carried out using tenon joints or galvanized self-tapping screws. The figure shows options for tenon joints, which clearly show how to assemble the door frame yourself to ensure high strength of the joints.

When calculating the parameters of the length and width of the profile slats, it is necessary to take into account that the length of the tenon should be equal to the thickness of the box beam. Tenon connection provides sufficient strength finished design, but if desired, additional reinforcement of the joints can be done with zinc-coated nails.

Door frame assembly process

Let's look at how to properly assemble a door frame . As source material we will need profiled timber made of natural wood or MDF.

The box is assembled in the following order:

Step-by-step installation process

To secure the assembled frame in the opening and install the doors yourself, you must perform the following steps:

Tip: Before foaming, you need to clean the surface from dust and moisten it with water from a spray bottle. These measures can significantly increase adhesion.

Another important condition To avoid disturbing the geometry of the frame during the installation process, use spacer wedges that correspond to the width of the box and are inserted across it.

The final stage of installing the frame and door is decorative design opening with platbands.

How to assemble a door frame

In the last article we found out how to cut holes for installation door handle and latches. It's time to figure out how to assemble the door frame.

Door frame consists of two side vertical elements and one upper horizontal element connecting the first two. Less commonly, the lower horizontal element is also used as a threshold, but this is rather an exception to the generally accepted rules.

How to properly file the ends of a door frame

One of the rules of “good form” is filing box joints and platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. The highest quality cuts are made using a miter saw. If you do not have the opportunity to use this tool, you can use a miter box and a special hacksaw for an ultra-clean cut with a “pass” or “tenon”. I highly recommend that you first practice on ordinary bars and “get your hands on it.”

First they file down side elements boxes. Do not immediately cut the racks to length. I'll explain why. If you cut the top part incorrectly at an angle of 45 degrees, you will no longer have the opportunity to correct the mistake by cutting it again, because the post has already been shortened, and there will simply be nowhere to make it even shorter. First, file the most difficult part, that is, the upper corner joints and check the correctness of the file with a square. The angle should be clear, without deviations, and the cutting plane should be perfectly flat. If there is a deviation of even a couple of degrees, when assembling the box, you will not be able to achieve an angle of 90 degrees at the joints, which is prerequisite quality work.

Having finished cutting down the racks, we move on to transverse element of the box. Here you also need to be very careful. After all, the second end will need to be sawed not only at an angle, but also along the length, so that the necessary gaps remain between door leaf and side posts of the box. The length of the inner part facing the door leaf should be 8 mm. greater than the width of the door leaf . If the width of the door leaf is 60 cm, then the length will be 60.8 cm. Make precise markings and make a cut.

Now you need to cut the side posts to length. There is a small nuance here that should not be overlooked. Not only do we need a gap above the top of the door leaf, we also need a gap below of about 10mm. But the floor on which the box will be installed may not be perfectly level, or “out of level.” In this case, if we cut the side posts to the same length, then during installation the door frame will warp, because one post will be higher than the other.

To avoid this, you need to check the level of the floor in the doorway. It is most convenient to use here laser level, but you can easily see the difference with an ordinary rack level. It is only necessary that the level itself fits the width of the doorway. If the level is short, then do the following simple operation. Cut an even block of the required length, and place a level on it, thereby increasing its length.

So, let's say for example that you find a difference in floor height at the edges of the doorway of 6 mm. What to do next? The stand, which will rest on a low place, needs to be made longer by this same 6 mm. We do the calculation this way. The side posts should be 13 mm. exceed the length of the door leaf and equal 2.013 meters, which includes the length of the door leaf (2 meters), the gap above the leaf (3 mm) and the gap below it (10 mm). Let's add a difference of 6 mm to the rack resting on a low place. and we get 2.018 meters. If the floor is flat and clearly level, then the racks should be the same length (2.013 meters).

Now that all the elements of the frame have been sawed down, assembly can begin, but first you need to mark the places for the hinges on the door leaf and frame.

Inserting and hanging hinges for a door frame

Let me immediately draw your attention to the fact that without professional tools and experience, you are unlikely to be able to install high-quality mortise hinges. The insertion is made using a manual milling machine, and not with a chisel and a hammer, as many people think and are mistaken.

Therefore, I recommend buying overhead loops, as in the photo. They do not require insertion, and their installation does not take much time and effort. The overhead loop consists of two parts that fit into one another and form one plane. The smaller inner part is attached to the door leaf, and the larger one to the frame post.

Mark at the end of the door leaf 20 cm from each edge. Examine the canvas carefully and decide which way the door will open. Here it is important not to make a mistake and place the loops correctly. The hinge hinges should face the direction the door swings.

Place the hinge at the end until the hinges stop. Do not press the hinge too hard against the edge of the canvas. The loop should rotate freely on the hinges without touching the canvas. If, when opening the hinge, you notice that the hinge scrapes along the canvas, leave a small gap of 1 mm.

Place a mark in one of the hinge holes and drill a hole slightly thinner than the self-tapping screws that come with the hinges. There is no need to drill all four holes at once. You can make a mistake in the markings, and the loop will lead to the side. After tightening one self-tapping screw and making sure that the hinge has not moved and sits straight, drill the remaining holes and secure it. Do the same with the second loop.

Now we’ll screw the mating part of the loop to the box post. For convenience, it is better to place the door leaf on the floor and place the frame post next to it. In order for the hinges to lie evenly on the frame, the door needs to be raised slightly, adjusting the height with wedges. By leaning the box stand against the end, make sure that it protrudes slightly above the length of the canvas, which after assembly will allow the required gap of 3 mm to form. Then drill holes to secure the hinge. Now you don’t need to completely screw the hinges on, because you still need to assemble the box, and it’s more convenient to do this without a canvas.

Twisting or assembling a door frame

Lift the door leaf from the floor and set it aside, thereby making room for door frame. It is also more convenient to roll the box on the floor, as you will soon see for yourself. To begin, the following preparations are required. Take the top part of the box and in the cut plane, perpendicular to it, drill two holes on each side for self-tapping screws, about a centimeter from the edges, as in the photo. In the uprights of the box, make one hole in the middle, also perpendicular to the plane.

Now, positioned correctly box elements, one by one, continue drilling to the adjacent part, and then screw them together with self-tapping screws. No need to look for any special screws. Any will do, for example those that are used to secure drywall to metal profiles. The most important condition here is the clear connection of the sawn ends.

To ensure that the parts fit snugly together, place plywood under them. If you have a very flat floor, then you can do without it. I repeat that the most important thing here is to keep the plane from sliding at the moment of twisting. If you have strong hands, you can avoid skewing by simply holding the box with one hand while tightening the screw with the other.

How to assemble a door frame with your own hands

Doors are important detail any room, since they provide protection from unwanted penetration, retain heat and sound insulation. In order for the design to cope well with its functions and last longer, you need to know how to assemble the door frame if you cannot turn to professionals for help.

Door frame components

To understand exactly how the door frame of interior doors is assembled, it is necessary to study its structure and components. These include:

• lintel - a “ceiling” strip located on top of the structure;
• loop beam - side part, loops cut into it;
• the recessed part is the opposite of the hinge part, it closes with the door when closing, and the counter side of the lock is installed into it;
• threshold - a beam located below.

Necessary tool

In order to assemble the door frame with your own hands quickly, you need to prepare in advance the tools that will be needed during the work process. In addition to the components of the box, the following accessories are needed:

• a simple pencil, tape measure, square and level;
• electric jigsaw or circular saw;
• perforator;
• drill or bit;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• screws, mounting foam, fastenings;
• necessary accessories.

How to take measurements

To assemble a high-quality structure, it is important to take the dimensions correctly, otherwise the door will not fit in the frame. There are several rules for taking measurements at home:

1. First of all, the doorway is measured; the external parameters of the frame should exceed it by 70 mm. As for the internal parameters, a gap of 3 mm around the perimeter should be maintained between the door leaf and the edge of the frame.
2. There is a separate rule for the gap located below; its height can be from 10 to 15 mm. This is necessary to ensure air circulation in the room, which is especially important for closed rooms, such as a bathroom or storage room. When installing sliding doors, it is necessary to take into account that profiles will be installed.
3. Often, when building bathhouses, owners do not make a large gap at the bottom of the door, this is acceptable, but in this case, it is necessary to carefully measure the door threshold with a level in the corners.

These parameters are mandatory; if a discrepancy is found, the doorway must be expanded or reduced. It is easier to work with artificial openings made of plasterboard.

Assembly methods

The door frame installation guide depends on how it is assembled. Designs come with or without a threshold and with different nuances securing parts.

How to assemble a door frame at 45° and without a threshold

Typically, MDF products are installed according to this scheme. Detailed instructions for making a box using this method:

1. To eliminate unevenness, you need to trim the box blanks.
2. The loop and false beams are sawn in the upper part, at 45 degrees inward. For work, it is better to use tools with fine teeth or a hacksaw, this will help avoid damage to the finish. When working with products made from eco-veneer or laminated MDF, it is best to saw from the reverse side, so that possible cracks remain on it.
3. After processing the side parts of the box, you can proceed to sawing the lintel. It is sawn on both sides at 45 degrees inward. It is important to measure everything carefully so that assembled form the parts formed a right angle. Do not forget that a gap of 3 mm must be maintained. Measurements can be made either using a tape measure or by placing the beam directly against the doorway, making notes with a pencil.
4. Next, you need to adjust the loop and trim beam in height, from the bottom, to the beginning of the cut corner. If there is no threshold, it is enough to add two gaps to the height of the door, 3 mm + 10-15 mm. After hanging, the door should close tightly enough, without obstacles to opening, and not touch the floor.
5. Once all the components are sawed down, you need to move on to assembling the parts. It's easier to work by placing them on the floor. For safety, it is better to use a small diameter drill. Self-tapping screws must be for wood; they are also screwed at an angle of 45 degrees. When fastening the parts, they must be pressed tightly against each other, since the screws stretch the parts.
6. After assembly, the structure must be tried on in the doorway; if the calculations are accurate, it will fit into it without any problems.

The measurements must be checked several times. If a mistake is made and the door frame turns out to be too small for the door leaf, you will have to purchase new material.

How to assemble a door frame with a 90 joint yourself

The simplest assembly option, which a beginner can handle, is also often used when working with wood-fiber materials. How to assemble with a 90 degree joint step by step:

1. The side beams are adjusted to the height of the doorway, taking into account all the gaps. They will reach to the very top of the doorway.
2. The upper part is fixed between the loop and the false part, so it must be shortened by as much as the width of both side beams. After connecting, the three parts should fit snugly into the width of the opening.
3. After preparing the components, you can proceed to assembly. Holes for self-tapping screws are made in advance to avoid cracks in the wood; they should enter from the sides, at an angle of 90 degrees.

Assembling a door frame with a threshold

Structures equipped with thresholds are usually installed at the entrance to houses, as they retain heat and make the box more durable. Even though a new part is being added, assembling the parts is not difficult. The first steps are identical to those performed during the installation of boxes without a threshold. The lintel and side beams can be installed at angles of 45 and 90 degrees. The threshold is always set at a right angle. Step-by-step instruction for assembling a box with a threshold:

1. The threshold beam must be sawn exactly at a right angle, observing the width, from one side part to the second, you can also focus on the formula: door width + 6 mm gap. To correctly determine the height of the threshold, it is necessary to place the structure in the door leaf.
2. Next, you need to carefully cut down the thrust quarter on the false and hinged beams, to the height of the bottom board, to securely fasten the threshold. Measurements must be taken accurately, otherwise you can simply ruin the material.
3. Once the components are prepared, you can proceed to connecting them, also tightening them tightly so that the parts do not fall apart. When working with entrance doors, it is better to use galvanized self-tapping screws.

Door frame tenon connection

A less common method of connecting box parts can be done without using self-tapping screws, however, to ensure strength it is best to use galvanized nails or special assembly adhesive.

The principle of this method is that at the junction of the components, it does not matter whether they are placed at a right angle or at 45 degrees, they are cut out tenon joints. One of the parts has the connection itself (tenks), and the second has grooves machined for it, into which it is tightly inserted.

Installing a frame in a doorway

This stage is best performed with an assistant, since door block can be heavy, especially if the door is used with a slab core, which can lead to operational difficulties. The structure is installed in the doorway in several stages:

1. The structure is inserted into the opening and secured in it using wedges. Then, its position is completely aligned so that it stands perfectly relative to the horizontal and vertical axes. Once the exact position is determined, holes for dowels are drilled in the opening itself and the frame.
2. When the structure is tightly fixed in the opening, you can begin preparing the door for hanging. First of all, the hinges are screwed to it, and the second part is fixed to the hinge beam. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the height, since the door will not be level. If everything is done correctly, after you hang the canvas, all the gaps will be respected.
3. Then, the box is fixed; this can be done using polyurethane foam; it is also used when filling the gaps allowed between the beam and the opening.
4. As soon as the work is completed, you can proceed to installing telescopic or simple platbands, casings and other accessories.

Errors during installation and assembly of the door frame

Not everyone can correctly install and assemble a door block without making mistakes. The most common of them:

1. Incorrectly selected tools and screws, which can damage materials or make the structure fragile. For example, doors made of fiberboard have a fibrous structure and a different density, unlike PVC, which means that different fasteners must be used.
2. Insufficient vertical alignment of the door can cause the door to open or close on its own.
3. Inattention when observing the direction of opening doors.
4. While working with polyurethane foam it is important to consider that it tends to expand if applied too much a large number of, the box may bend.

Don’t be afraid to ask questions to experienced installers; only an experienced installer can give good advice and warn against possible errors. If the steps are performed incorrectly, you have to purchase new material, which is not profitable and takes a lot of time.

The most important stage installing a door involves attaching the door frame to the wall - the video below will confirm this. Weak fasteners, non-compliance with the level and other installation errors can lead to the fact that the leaf will not fit into the frame or the door will open randomly. In the worst case, the entire structure will simply fall.

We invite you to explore several installation methods and choose the one that seems most optimal to you in your situation.

If you change old door for a new one, it must be removed by removing the platbands and carefully dismantled using a nail puller, having first sawed the box and pressed it away from the opening. Firmly seated old fasteners for the door frame you can cut it with a grinder.

Then it is necessary to examine the slopes for their strength, and the adjacent walls for verticality and evenness. Inconsistency with the level and curvature of the walls will lead to the fact that visually the door will appear crooked, and the platbands will not adhere to the plane of the walls.

Therefore, all defects should be corrected at this stage using plaster or cladding on the frame.

In addition, even before starting installation, you should make sure that the door leaf will fit into the opening not only in width, but also in length. The instructions say that there should be a gap of about 1 cm wide between it and the floor. Keep this in mind if the floors have not yet been leveled or the flooring has not been laid.

Note. The opening should be slightly wider than the outer dimensions of the box. If this is not the case in your case, you will have to expand it or choose a different door model.

If the opening is too wide for the selected door, it will have to be reduced by bricking it or building a plasterboard box into it. It is not recommended to leave a large gap and fill it with foam. This will weaken the reliability of the fixation and make it problematic to attach the plinth to the door frame.

Installation methods

There are several ways to secure a door frame in a wall opening. Each of them uses its own type of fastener. And each option provides a certain level of strength and reliability of the structure.

The choice of method depends on both the wall material and weight.

Foam mounting

The algorithm for performing the work is simple:

• The assembled frame with the hung door leaf is inserted into the opening and fixed in it using wooden wedges;

• The construction level is determined by its correct position relative to the vertical. Moreover, the level must be applied to two adjacent faces: internal and lateral;

• Spacers 3 mm thick are inserted between the frame and the closed door on top and on the sides;

Advice. In order not to stain the canvas with foam and damage it, you can use spacers made of wooden slats or special adjustable devices.

• Small areas between the wall and the frame are foamed with polyurethane foam;
• When they dry, the entire perimeter is filled with it. This cannot be done right away, since as the foam expands it will put pressure on the box. When foaming the perimeter, you should not fill it completely; initially, half the volume is enough to leave room for expansion.

The basis of a door set of interior doors is the door frame. The performance properties of the doors largely depend on what it is, what it consists of and how it is installed.

What is a door frame?

Door frame - part of the door block, which is attached to the doorway, and already to the frame door hinges the door leaf is attached. This door element is called a frame because with the threshold it forms a rectangle into which the door leaf is inserted. Used to install swing doors.

Door frame in a doorway.

A standard door frame for a single-leaf swing interior door without a threshold consists of two and a half sticks (one stick on the right, one stick on the left and at the top half a stick - a crossbar). A standard door frame stick has dimensions: 70 mm width, 30 mm thickness and 2100 mm height. Each manufacturer's sizes may vary slightly.

When measuring doorways to order doors of the required width, it is important to know the exact dimensions of the frame in order to determine the width of the door block along with the frame and thereby know whether the door block will fit into the opening and, if so, how much space will remain on the sides. In addition, the width of the door frame determines whether additional additions will be required or not.

Sectional view of door frame pillar

Telescopic and simple door frame

Based on the method of attaching the platbands to the door frame, a distinction is made between a simple frame and a telescopic one. The telescopic door frame has a slot for inserting a telescopic platband into it. Attached to a simple door frame simple platbands using special nails without heads or glue.

What material is the door frame made of?

The coating of the door frame is almost always the same as the coating of the door leaf (veneer, laminate, eco-veneer, PVC), but the base can be of two types: homogeneous and combined. A homogeneous box is a box consisting of one material, usually solid pine or MDF.

In our online store of doors, solid wood frames are supplied with doors from the "Ocean" factory and economy class doors for painting "Canada". MDF frames - almost all laminated doors.

The combined material of the box necessarily includes MDF and some other material, for example, thick plywood, chipboard, solid wood, etc. This method of making the box gives it rigidity, and also ensures the box's resistance to deformation from the effects of temperature and moisture.

Door frame seal

This is a soft element in the form of an overlay, which is attached along the entire perimeter of the door frame - in the place where the door leaf adjoins the frame. The seal provides sound insulation, thermal insulation, and prevents the penetration of odors. In addition, the door closes softly and silently and does not rattle against the frame.

Embedded fittings

The door frame is mainly sold in the form of sticks (blanks), which are sawn by a craftsman at the place where the doors are installed. right size and at the desired angle, they cut the hinges and the strike plate for the latch into the box.

But doors with factory-installed fittings are also sold. The hinges and striker are already cut into the box, and the box itself is sawn to the desired angle and size. Such doors with embedded fittings include almost all doors with a rebate (otherwise they are called " Finnish doors"). In our online store of rebated doors, we present doors from the manufacturers "Karnoderevshchik" and "Mario Riolli".

Threshold for interior door

This is part of the door frame (lower crossbar) which serves to tightly close the door, which provides significant sound and heat insulation. In a residential area, provision of these conditions is required mainly only for the bathroom. That is why it is customary to install thresholds only on doors to the bathroom and toilet.

Although modern tendencies renovations show that many do not install thresholds in the bathroom, preferring simplicity and convenience. As an alternative, you can use an automatic threshold, which is built into the door leaf and lowers when the doors are closed.

Door frame installation

The door frame is installed in such a way that the gap between the door leaf and the frame at the top and sides is uniform and is no more than 3 mm, and at the bottom between the door leaf and the floor is 8-10 mm, depending on the flatness of the floor. The door should not close on its own when in the open position.

The frame can be attached to the doorway in three ways:

First way- the box is fastened with dowels in three places - in the places where the hinges are attached and under the striker plate. This is a more aesthetic method of fastening, when all fastening points are hidden under the fittings.

Second way- the box is fastened with dowels in six places, three on each side. The box is drilled right through from the front side, and after installation, the holes are closed with plugs, similar to how this is done when assembling cabinet furniture. This method of fastening is more reliable and durable.

Third way fastening the door frame - the frame is attached using iron plates (canopies). The plates are attached to the inside of the frame in six or more places, and then these iron plates are attached to the doorway. This method of fastening combines the advantages of the first and second methods, but is more labor-intensive and more expensive in installation costs.

If the box comes with accessories, it is better to install them together with the box. The box for the extensions must have a groove (recess) into which the extensions are inserted. Otherwise, when installing the extensions, the master will have to prepare the box for the extension, which will cost additional money.

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