Extension of a bathroom to a wooden house. Extension to a house - the most interesting projects and main types of extensions (130 photos)

Time passes, and it turns out that the private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We’ll tell you in this article how to do this efficiently and without extra costs.

Save money without harming quality – requirements for premises and materials

Poorly thought out design of an extension will eventually force something to be redone or completed, or added to country house. In order to avoid getting into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with choosing a location and size.

Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in a country house, then this is tantamount to building a small house. It is necessary to reliably insulate and prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.

Another common type of extension is kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about utilities and install them even before construction begins. It is much more convenient to lay sewer and water pipes before pouring the foundation than to dig underneath it later. The waterproofing of the floor covering requires increased attention. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then you can save on this.

The house is being expanded by adding a veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer recreation, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many variants: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to complex with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing the foundation is necessary.

The extension to the house must be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has external decoration, then it will not be difficult to repeat it in the attached room. All materials go well with wood, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option there will be a frame structure:

it is built quickly, literally in a few months;
does not require a capital foundation because it is lightweight;
without special knowledge and skills, it can be built with your own hands;
will cost less.

The foundation for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching a structure to a house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this respect they compare favorably frame structures, which do not give vertical shrinkage.

If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows off. If this is an extension to a side wall, then the roof follows the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.

Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable

For columnar foundation Extensions to the house use concrete, brick or a combination of both. It is made mainly for a living room or veranda. If used for a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the input will be required engineering communications to the house. Since the protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, such expenses can be incurred, and it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards; for concrete, you will need a lot of backfill material and a fence around the perimeter.

We start by marking the area, the installation locations of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate hole of 50x50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than freezing of the soil. At the top we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a 10 cm layer of sand, compact it carefully, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.

We lay out the film for waterproofing and bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, pour a little bit into each hole. concrete mortar for the base and wait for it to set. When planning concrete pillars, we tie reinforcement at the top along the entire height and lower them into the pits. We ensure equal distance between the walls. We place pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.

We make formwork for the base, inside which we run the film. We pour the concrete in layers, pierce each layer several times with a rod to release air bubbles. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it sets, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, water heavily and cover with burlap or film.

When the foundation reaches the required strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bitumen mastic, apply it to the pillars and immediately glue pieces of roofing felt for waterproofing. There is space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill in to insulate the floor. We apply ordinary land, mixed with crushed stone or pieces of brick. Fill in layers of 10 cm and tamp. The technology for constructing a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.

Getting started - bottom frame and extension floor

So, we stopped at frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for a tree to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing the most reliable means – bitumen mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.

Then we do bottom trim. Usually 150x150 mm timber is used, but it is possible to use 150x50 mm boards. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, aligned with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.

In boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes under the studs and connect them. If it is strip, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then lay it down. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. It turns out the harness required thickness, which also has additional advantages:

costs much less than beams;
It’s very easy to connect them together, but with bars it’s more difficult.

We attach the bottom frame to the beds from the same 150x50 mm boards, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next we install logs made of similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the trim board with nails, 2 on each side.

Now let's start insulating the floor. The cheapest, although not very environmentally friendly option, is tile polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg/m3. Its advantage is that it is the only insulation material that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50x50 mm bars to the lower edges of the logs, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the bottom and top rows overlap.

The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. To prevent it from warping over time, we lay it alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we place one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if there are edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We lay it directly along the joists.

Wall installation - two assembly technologies

There are two technologies for assembling frame buildings. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then ready-made designs are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is immediately sheathed, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. A shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; assistants will be needed.

We begin the construction of the frame with the corner posts. For them and intermediate posts we use timber 150×150 mm or even 100×100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We position the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. This way we will save on waste-free use of material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.

Fastening can be carried out simply and reliably metal corners, installed on both sides of the racks and secured with stainless steel screws. Before finally fixing the stand, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will cause the entire extension to bend.

Temporary bevels, which are installed from the inside and serve until attachment, help maintain the correct shape of the frame. external cladding. If the casing is made of hard and durable material like plywood, OSB, GVK, it is capable of independently strengthening the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary slopes. When soft material is planned for the cladding: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be avoided. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.

At the places where windows and doors are installed, we attach crossbars. We make the racks next to them double: they experience increased loads and must be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing top harness. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and the actual harness made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor joists were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150x50 boards on the edge.

We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of the racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.

Shed roof - design and technology

The roof of a house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one; all that remains is to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along its length, its roof is made of a pitched roof. The slope is ensured by the difference in height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main canopy.

The roof is supported by rafters, which we lay on beams. They are made from thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground according to a template so that they are all the same. Then after installation in place there will be no need to align horizontally. We treat the grooves with mastic, install them and fasten them to the walls with brackets and metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.

We lay the sheathing on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material we make it continuous or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for continuous wooden flooring occurs when used soft material, we make sparse for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten corrugated sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws having sealing washers, and ondulin with nails with a wide head. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the final design: wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.

Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension

Mineral wool and polystyrene foam are mainly used to insulate buildings. Mineral wool resists fire and has low thermal conductivity. They are light in weight and have a consumer-friendly release form: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation- Styrofoam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, not afraid of fungus, moisture, rotting. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it, and in case of fire it emits toxic gases.

We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:

1. We install the waterproofing, having previously cut strips of the required sizes. We fasten with staples using construction stapler, so as to ensure overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
2. Place insulation between the studs. Ensure a tight fit to wooden structures, seams between separate elements We close the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
3. We attach the vapor barrier, even if we use polystyrene foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the wood. We perform fastening in the same way as waterproofing.
4. We cover the walls from the inside. We use plasterboard over a perfectly flat frame or OSB if there are any unevenness. It is tougher and smoothes out imperfections.

What remains is internal and external finishing, where there is room for the owner’s imagination. Frame extension it is built quickly, cheaply, lasts for decades, and can be built with virtually no outside help.

Buying a new wooden country house usually comes with a lot of problems and concerns. However, if your home design includes a bathroom, consider that the lion’s share of all problems have already been solved. Bathroom in wooden house- the most difficult part of construction, no living space requires as much attention and labor. Literally everything matters: the location of the bathroom and shower, the size of the room, proximity to water, good ventilation. In addition to designing sewerage and ventilation systems, it is necessary to carefully consider the design of waterproofing and issues of further finishing of the room.

The main stages of building a bathroom with your own hands

Shower location plays important role: firstly, it must have access to a source of water, and secondly, it must be connected to a sewerage system, or, at worst, cesspool or treatment plant.

A bathroom in a wooden house (no matter what it is made of: profiled timber or logs, or chopped by hand) is equipped in several stages:

Bathroom in a wooden house: location and dimensions

No matter how much you would like to bring your share of creativity into the construction of a bathroom, it would be more correct to do this without going beyond professional rules its placement:

If one of the walls of the bathroom is external, it will be easier to ventilate it

one of the walls of the bathroom should be external, this will greatly facilitate its ventilation;
if the house has several floors, you can also equip several bathrooms, placing them one above the other;
optimal location - next to the bedroom or dressing room;
inappropriate place for a bathroom - next to the place of eating and preparing food;
if you want to save space, consider making a main or additional bathroom under the stairs.

As for the size, the bathroom, along with utility rooms should not occupy more than 20-25% of the area of the house. In any case, if the owner wants a huge bathroom, no one will stop him from doing so; it is only important to worry about careful waterproofing.

Rules for constructing a bathroom in a private house

The functionality and durability of the future bathroom depends on careful adherence to all installation rules.

The main problem facing the builder is the shrinkage of a wooden house. If a brick or reinforced concrete house does not create such problems, then a wooden one, due to its material, is subject to seasonal changes.

To drain water, use metal-plastic or plastic pipes

Therefore, it is worth taking this fact into account when laying communication networks, making a reserve of free space or using damping devices.

To drain water, it is best to use metal-plastic or plastic pipes, because they do not deform when exposed to walls and partitions that have changed due to precipitation. When fastening the pipeline, it is necessary to use clamps with rubber gaskets.

The design of a bathroom in a wooden house is best done on the basis of a sliding frame system - self-sufficient load-bearing structure, autonomous relative to the walls of the house and therefore not exposed to their influence during shrinkage.

The sliding frame is a system of metal profile attached to the wall.

The main requirement during installation is to ensure the mobility of the profile. To do this, elongated, oval holes are made in the wall using a drill, so that the screws entering them do not touch the wall covering. The screws are not tightened tightly so as not to interfere with the mobility of the entire structure.

Paneling, installation of ceiling and floor in the bathroom

After installing the profile, you can begin covering with plasterboard. First you need to prepare the base: using rivets to existing U-shaped profiles the same ones are attached, modifying them so that it is convenient to attach sheets of drywall.

Drywall is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws

Drywall can be secured using self-tapping screws. It is worth deciding in advance on the placement of the wiring and, when installing sheets of drywall, drill holes in them for the wires. You can lay tiles on top of the drywall.

It is better to make the ceiling in the bathroom suspended: this way you can conveniently disguise all the ventilation elements.

Scheme of waterproofing a bathroom floor in a wooden house

The floor is arranged in different ways: depending on the type of base. If the base is concrete, the floor is made the same as in a stone house. If the base is wooden joists, then thickened waterproof plywood is laid first, then hydroglass insulation, reinforced screed and finally the tiles.

In addition, a bathroom in a wooden house needs careful waterproofing. If funds allow, you can lay a polymer floor, but if the budget is limited, you can apply a water-repellent mixture with your own hands or glue a water-resistant flooring.

Preliminary finishing of a bathroom in a wooden house must be done carefully: it must be leveled, cleaned, soaked with an antiseptic and cracks in the floor must be repaired before directly laying the waterproofing layer and finishing coating.

Wooden houses easily become damp and are extremely susceptible to mold. To avoid these unpleasant consequences, you should take care proper ventilation premises.

If at least one of the walls of the bathroom is external, then the room itself is ventilated. Additional ventilation requires expensive, fire-proof equipment.

It is better to entrust the installation of ventilation to a professional, because incorrectness in this matter can cause a further fire in the system. In addition to the fact that all materials used must be non-flammable, the entire structure should not come into contact with wood, but should be mounted on special brackets. The system also needs fire dampers and reliable protection from moisture.

Supplying water to a bathroom in a wooden house

The final stage of work is supplying water. Before supply is established, all systems, from sewer to ventilation, must be installed and thoroughly checked. To avoid water freezing in the pipes, all drainage networks must be insulated, and the base of the floor must be equipped with a vapor barrier film.

Diagram of water supply to a wooden house

Thus, equipping and preparing a bathroom for use with your own hands requires a lot of effort, building materials and special equipment (take, for example, the ventilation system). You can’t get hung up on the aesthetic side of the issue: it’s better to spend less on beautiful finish, but carefully consider waterproofing and ventilation of the room, not to mention the main thing - proper sewerage.

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Vacation home rarely associated with convenience and comfort. For some reason, a rickety toilet stall and a galvanized wash trough come to mind. And it’s completely in vain: in a cottage it’s not a problem to build a comfortable bathroom and comfortable bathroom. I will try to describe solutions to a number of problems that arise at different stages of construction in this article.

Construction

How to attach a bathroom to a house - stone or frame?

Let's break this question down into several less global ones.

Foundation

How to connect the foundation of an extension to the base of the house?

As a rule, private houses, depending on the type of soil and the mass of the walls, are built on strip, column or pile foundations. In the case of a strip foundation, the problem of connecting the foundations of the extension and the main building will inevitably arise. This problem has two possible solutions:

The extension is connected to the strip foundation of the house with thick (14 - 16 mm) reinforcement. It is pulled through holes drilled in the concrete. This reinforcement scheme eliminates deformation of the walls of the extension during soil subsidence;

It makes sense to build a general foundation on stable soils even after the house has completely settled. If the soil is mobile and shrinkage has not yet completed, it is better to prefer separate bases.

The second option is to build an independent foundation. It is laid to the same depth as the foundation of the house. Between the foundations there remains expansion joint, filled with any elastic material (for example, glued mineral wool). This scheme allows, among other things, the use of foundations different types(say, columnar and ribbon).

What can the foundation be made from??

In Crimea, where I live, the most popular solution is monolithic strip foundations from concrete grades M250 - M300. Typical depth is about 30 - 40 centimeters, the height of the foundation above ground level is 25 - 30 cm.

On heaving soils in regions with cold winters, the foundation should be buried below the freezing level. In areas of the country with permafrost, strip foundations are not held in high esteem: as a rule, houses are built on stilts.

Walls

What to build bathtub walls from?

The material of the walls is dictated both by local prices for building materials and by the type of walls of the main structure. Agree that a brick bathroom will look rather strange in a house made of timber. I will list the most popular solutions in my region:

Frame building with cavities filled with mineral wool and OSB sheathing 10 mm thick. The frame is rigidly tied to the walls of the house with galvanized corners or anchors;

The walls are made of shell rock, a local sedimentary rock. Thanks to its porous structure, it retains heat well, but does not have high mechanical strength. In order for the extension to be rigidly connected to the house, a reinforced concrete reinforced belt is constructed, tied to the walls of the main building with reinforcement placed in the holes in them;
Aerated concrete in last years significantly replaced shell rock due to the ideal geometry of the blocks. Walls made from it do not require obligatory leveling with plaster;
Finally, the time-tested classics - logs and beams - also never left the building materials market. In this case, there remains an expansion joint filled with mineral wool or other insulation between the walls of the extension and the house.

Is wall insulation necessary??

It all depends on the climate zone and the materials used in construction. If the extension is built from aerated concrete blocks and is operated in Yakutia or Chukotka, heat loss through walls without insulation will be unreasonably large. On the other hand, frame walls 100 mm thick filled with mineral wool will provide sufficient thermal insulation over most of the country.

Roof

What should be the design of the roof of a bathroom attached to the house??

All the extensions I saw in Crimea had pitched roof, laid on wooden beams. Beams can rest on a mauerlat anchored to an armored belt, but more often they are simply waterproofed and laid in the upper part of the walls.

How to cover the roof of an extension?

In my opinion, in the middle price range the most attractive material- professional sheet. This is what I used to build the attic roof in my house. Here are the arguments in its favor:

Low price square meter(from 150 rubles with a sheet thickness of 0.4 mm);
Acceptable strength that allows the roof to support the weight of an adult;
Durability. The service life of the profiled sheet is estimated at at least 30 years.

To be fair, it is worth mentioning a couple of disadvantages of the material:

The roof will make a noticeable noise in the rain;
For small slopes (less than 15 degrees), overlaps along the length must be additionally sealed with silicone. Unlike metal tiles, corrugated sheets do not have a transverse wave, which prevents the flow of water.

With a small extension, the roof is usually completely covered with one row of sheets.

When installing corrugated sheets, a sheathing made of boards 30-40 mm thick in 0.5 meter increments, vapor-permeable waterproofing and a counter-batten 20 mm thick are laid on top of the beams. The counter-lattice creates a ventilation gap that prevents the accumulation of condensation and rotting of the roof frame.

How to insulate the roof of an attached bathroom?

Slabs of glued mineral wool are laid in the spaces between the beams or rafters of the roof. They are hemmed at the bottom vapor barrier film. Then a rough ceiling is constructed from a 25 mm thick board, to which a leveling ceiling is attached. plasterboard sheet, plastic or any other finished ceiling material.

Floors

What to make a bathroom floor from?

A typical floor base is wooden beams. As a rule, on their side surfaces cranial bars are hemmed, on which 25 mm thick boards and insulation are successively laid. The insulation is covered with waterproofing on top, after which a subfloor is laid from boards 40 - 50 mm thick (depending on the pitch between the beams).

If the distance from beam to beam is large, it is more profitable not to increase the thickness of the flooring boards, but to lay transverse joists under them in increments of 30 - 50 cm.

A typical bathroom flooring is tile. Its laying on wooden base deserves special discussion. When building a bathroom in the attic, I solved this problem like this:

A 15 mm thick OSB sheet was screwed to the joists with self-tapping screws;
Placed on top of it cement bonded particle board 24 mm thick. To prevent floor deformation, the slab is glued to the base polyurethane foam and tightened with self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes in it;
The DSP joints are filled with mortar;
A tile is placed on top of the DSP. To stick it on I used Ceresit CM 17 tile adhesive.

The bathroom is used extremely carefully, so I did without additional waterproofing of the floor. In general, it is useful; for waterproofing it is easiest to use dense polyethylene laid between the layers of the base.

Decoration Materials

What and how the bathroom can be finished in frame house with your own hands?

Plywood or OSB are usually used to cover the frame. Basic finishing material for the bathroom - tile: it combines absolute resistance to moisture with exceptional strength, allowing you to clean the walls with any aggressive and abrasive detergents, and durability.

The main problem is gluing the tiles onto OSB or plywood. Here are her two solutions:

Use silicone sealant instead of tile adhesive. It is applied pointwise or in strips to the edges and in the middle of each tile, after which it is rubbed against the wall with a couple of sliding movements. Preliminary priming of the walls is not necessary; you just need to thoroughly clean them of dust.

The seams are filled with the same sealant. Many manufacturers offer colored silicone grout for tiles;

I used regular clear silicone to fill the seams. The base can be seen through the seam only in bright light and looking straight at it.

Cover the walls moisture-resistant plasterboard or GVL. The seams do not need to be puttied: they will still be covered with tiles. In this case, any cement-based adhesive can be used to lay the tiles.

When finishing the bathroom in the attic, I used another material - rubber paint. This is a regular water-based emulsion based on acrylic latex, which after drying provides a complete waterproofing coating. It can be washed and cleaned with any non-abrasive means.

It is advisable to provide at least one skylight in the bathroom walls. To protect against indiscreet views from the outside, it is usually located under the ceiling. I used metal plastic window With double glazing without opening doors.

Plumbing

Which bathtub is better to buy - cast iron, steel or acrylic??

IN different time I had the opportunity to use all three types of bathtubs. These are the impressions they left behind.

Material	Peculiarities
Cast iron	The significant mass of the bathtub makes it difficult to install, but increases stability. The bath heats up slowly and cools down slowly. The water intake is almost silent: the massive walls do not resonate
Steel	Until the seam between the wall and the side is sealed, the steel bathtub remains unstable. Sitting on the side, you can turn it over. The bottom makes noise when taking in water. Deformation of the bottom under the weight of the owner may well cause chips of the enamel
Acrylic	A lightweight bathtub requires fastening to the wall, which makes it relatively difficult to install. Acrylic is afraid of strong impacts, so it is better not to place shelves with household chemicals And cosmetics. The surface gets dirty easily; For cleaning, you can use acidic and alkaline cleaning agents (Belizna, Domestos, etc.)

I currently have it installed acrylic bathtub. The choice was dictated by two considerations:

Savings. A comparable-sized cast-iron bathtub cost three times as much;
The opportunity to choose a form that is convenient for me. Triangular and asymmetrical cast iron baths, apparently, are not produced in principle, and acrylic ones - as many as you like.

How to install a bath - horizontally or with a slope?

Install the bathtub on legs so that its sides are horizontal and check the bottom slope with a level. If it is capable of ensuring water flow to the outlet, the bath can be left in this position. If the bottom is also horizontal, the side farthest from the outlet will have to be raised.

How to seal a seam between a bathtub and a wall?

If the walls are smooth, it is enough to fill the seam silicone sealant. If the seam is significantly thick, you will have to first stick a strip of foam plastic under the bathtub shelf or nail a thin strip. The obstacle will prevent the silicone from sliding down under its own weight.

A few nuances:

The seam is filled with silicone to its full depth. It will not only ensure tightness, but will also securely fix the edge of the bathtub. This is especially important if the latter is made of steel or acrylic;
Take the time to first protect the tiles and bathtub shelf with strips masking tape. It will be quite difficult to remove set sealant from their surface;
If the seam thickness is small, it is better to use transparent rather than white sealant. For some reason unknown to me, it is not affected by fungus, while white silicone often turns black after several years of use.

When uneven walls The gap between the wall and the bathtub is closed with a plastic corner. It is better to glue it with the same sealant. Silicone is applied not to the corner itself, but to the wall and shelf of the bathtub: this way there is less chance of staining adjacent surfaces.

Which faucet is better to choose for the bathroom??

Its design will be dictated to you by the interior of the bathroom in the house: for example, a chrome-plated faucet will perfectly match modern design, and a retro-style bronze fixture will look good with a freestanding cast-iron bathtub with wrought iron or bent legs.

And here design it is better to select based on fault tolerance different solutions. Here I will allow myself to give a couple of tips:

The most reliable type of shut-off and control valves are ceramic valves;
Ball shower switches do not break in principle. They can be easily distinguished from similar externally lever ones by the movement of the handle: it rotates freely 360 degrees.

When purchasing a faucet, pay attention to its weight. You should not buy a device that is too light: most likely, under the chrome coating there is not brass hidden, but extremely fragile silumin.

What pipes and how lay a sewer system in a bathroom in a country house?

I recommend using inexpensive and durable PVC pipes. Here are the basic rules for sewer installation:

It is better to lay pipes openly. Some blockages can only be cleared through the nearest flare connection. It is advisable that after cleaning you do not have to do unscheduled repairs in the bathroom in the house;

The slope towards the movement of drains should be 2 cm per linear meter for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm and 3 - for a diameter of 50 mm;

The diameter of the pipe can only increase as the waste flows;
To connect bathtubs, showers and washbasins, the sewerage system is installed with a diameter of 50 mm, toilet bowls - 110 mm;
The plastic pipe is attached in increments of no more than 10 of its diameters. The instructions are related to the plasticity of PVC: over several years, loose areas can sag under their own weight and form areas with a negative slope. Each counter-slope will become a place of constant blockages;

To connect the bathtub, it is better to provide an oblique tee with a side outlet directed in the direction of flow of the drains. In this case, a volley discharge of water will not lead to overflow of the sewer system;

All connections of pipes and siphons to the sewer system must be sealed. Sewage odors will begin to penetrate into the bathroom through the gaps.

Ventilation

How to get rid of dampness in the bathroom?

By organizing its heating and forced ventilation. In the attic bathroom of my house, air is taken in through a grille in the ceiling; Ventilation is provided by a duct fan with a capacity of 105 m3/hour. It is connected to a separate dimmer that allows you to regulate the speed, and works around the clock.

Conclusion

I hope that my experience will help the reader successfully solve the problems of building and finishing a bathroom. As always, Additional materials can be learned by watching the video in this article. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

August 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

A FEW YEARS AGO, I BUILT A HOUSE IN A VILLAGE USING FRAME TECHNOLOGY. THERE WAS NO WATER ON THE SITE - IT HAD TO BE CARRIED FROM THE WELL. I RECENTLY DRILLED A WELL AND PLUGGED WATER INTO THE HOUSE, AND AT THE SAME TIME I BUILT A FULL BATHROOM WITH A WC.

At the junction of the future extension, I removed the clapboard from the wall, plinth panels made of slate (cover the foundation pillars) (photo 1). Manual circular saw I sawed sheets of plywood along the width of the opening and removed them. I dismantled the insulation boards, the window and the load-bearing posts of the frame (photo 2) supporting top beam strapping.

Since the length of the roof overhang is 60 cm, and it is technically difficult to increase it, I decided to make the width of the extension the same size. Using a hand drill, I drilled two holes in the ground with a diameter of 200 mm to a depth of 150 cm, poured one bucket of concrete solution into each, and installed pipes 130 cm long and d 120 mm, aligning them (photo 3) between themselves and the foundation pillars of the house. I filled the supports inside with mortar, and covered the outside with sand and compacted it.

The bottom frame of the extension was made from two boards with a cross-section of 150×50mm connected to each other. The connection to the house was made at an angle - on one side 90 degrees, on the other - 45. I laid the floor of tongue-and-groove boards flush with the floor of the house, laid OSB sheets on top and covered them with linoleum.

The bathtub and toilet were placed in the extension before the wall frame was installed. I attached racks made of timber with a cross section of 100×50 mm to the harness and fixed a plastic window between them (photo 4) C inside I covered the frame with OSB sheets.

Insulated the ceiling. To do this, set between ceiling beams insulation boards that, due to their elasticity, support themselves. For vapor barrier and additional insulation Foil-coated polyethylene foam 10 mm thick was fixed between the ceiling beams with a furniture stapler. All the walls and ceiling of the room were closed from the inside plastic panels with an image.

After finishing interior decoration installed a washbasin, hung shelves (photo 5) and a heating radiator. Install the bathtub faucet (hose-head and long swivel spout for the sink) on frame wall difficult, so I used a kitchen faucet with a pull-out shower head.

Distance from storage tank to the mixer should be minimal so that every time you turn it on you do not drain the water that has cooled in the pipes.

To heat water I use two electric tanks - 50 and 10 liters. I connected them in series. The smaller tank is constantly connected to the network: its volume is quite enough for everyday use. I connect the big one for taking a bath. Bucky placed it behind a partition on the wall next to the TV to save space in the bathroom.

The outside of the resulting extension was covered plastic lining. The foundation pillars were covered with sheets flat slate.

On a note
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Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Have you noticed that the bath and toilet next to the kitchen are designed in almost all standard residential buildings, starting from Stalin buildings, and ending with buildings under construction today. Have you ever wondered whether these are shortcomings in the building design, saving living space or a technical necessity?

If you don’t know the answer, but are planning to build an extension or own house, I will try to answer it, and you will also have the opportunity to watch the video in this article regarding this topic.

What does the kitchen have in common with the bathroom and toilet?

Sewage system

In order to understand the essence of the issue, you need to understand the principle of the system.

Table of slopes of pipes of different diameters

To install a sewer system, there are certain instructions and different priorities:

first of all, sewer systems this type does not have a forced drain, therefore the slope of the pipes is required - there is no way to do without it;
Moreover, this same slope is different for different pipe diameters and the allowances for ± there are small. This means that we have to look for a common denominator for all plumbing fixtures;
the drainage from the house to or any storage tank is made by the hundredth, one hundred and fiftieth or, in rare cases, the two hundredth pipe, which is laid at an angle in the trench;
all other plumbing fixtures are connected to it;
therefore, from a technical and technological point of view, it is much more profitable and convenient to install all plumbing units as close to each other as possible.

In the diagram above you can see standard arrangement bathrooms, whether it is an extension of the kitchen and toilet to the dacha, or they are pre-designed in the house:

Please note that the toilet is the last one, the outlet of which is connected to the hundredth pipe (it is designed for it). Although, if you have a larger pipe diameter, then in such cases you simply install a reducing adapter;
all other appliances, with the exception of automatic washing and dishwasher are connected by the 50th pipe, and the mentioned exceptions are connected by the 32nd.

Imagine that the toilet, that is, the toilet bowl, will be located at a distance of, say, 20 m from the kitchen sink, which means that the outlet at the sink siphon should be at a height of 70 cm. Agree that this is not entirely convenient and practical!

That is why the plan for a kitchen-bathroom-toilet extension to a house is made as if in one unit, although separated by partitions.

Nuances of arranging an extension

The extension where the water supply and sewerage lines will be located must be warm, regardless of what material it is made of (wood, brick, foam blocks, concrete, etc.). Otherwise:

pipelines will freeze in winter;
if it is metal, it will burst;
and polypropylene and PVC will simply stop functioning.

Now I’m not talking about pipe heat insulators, but specifically about a warm room, that is, fairly thick walls and heating devices inside.

So, in order to build a warm extension, you will have to insulate it with your own hands, using synthetic materials type mineral wool, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. But each region has its own insulation coefficient for residential buildings.

Using this coefficient, the thickness is calculated thermal insulation material. But if you don’t want to deal with formulas, you can simply focus on your home and make the wall thickness the same.

If you additionally insulate the walls in the extension, it is better to do it outside. If the insulation is inside, the wall still freezes, therefore, the efficiency of the arrangement decreases.

If you are making an extension for the kitchen with bathrooms, then most likely you will do it in modern style Therefore, you will want to hide all the pipelines under the finishing. This means that they will move to a colder area of the building and you will need additional protection by cold.

Foamed polyethylene is the best choice here, which is made in the form of a pipe with a seam on one side - the shell is opened and put on the pipe required diameter(the price of such material is quite affordable and depends on the cross-section).

In such extensions it is very convenient to arrange all the electrical wiring, for example, a switch block for the bathroom-kitchen-toilet and one or two sockets. This not only saves space, but also facilitates possible repairs.

But in the bathroom or kitchen there may be appliances such as an electric boiler or an automatic washing machine, and they need separate wiring, moreover, with grounding. Grounding for the private sector is not a problem - you can easily make such a circuit yourself, protecting not only electrical appliances, but also your health.

Conclusion

Of course, you have the opportunity not to install bathrooms in the extension directly next to the kitchen and separate them, for example, with a pantry. You can even make two extensions, but in this case you will have to install a separate sewer line.

In any case, it's up to you to decide! If you have any questions or want to add to the topic, write about it in the comments.

August 27, 2016

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