A bathroom in a private house is an opportunity to create something more than what is usually found in an apartment. It can be furnished completely as you wish, providing enough space for creativity and incorporating elements that simply would not fit in a cramped apartment.
The modern design of a bathroom in a home begins to take shape already at the design stages. Even before building a house, you can choose the size of the premises, focusing on the necessary parameters.
Communications
In order to make a bathroom in a private house, you need to install many pipes through which the water will rise and go. The difficulty in installing communications for homeowners is that everything needs to be done from scratch.
If in apartments it is enough to connect to existing systems, then a new water supply system needs to be laid in the house and a drainage system must be organized.
However, there are also advantages, for example, when organizing your own well, the owner ceases to depend on housing and communal services for water.
In order to make a bathroom in a private house with several floors, you need to purchase a powerful pumping station. Powered by electricity, it will quickly raise water to the desired area.
In order for hot water to appear in the tap, you need to choose a heating system. If you choose a simple heating system, only hot water will appear in the house.
But if you make an effort and spend more money, you can combine heating and hot water, at the same time making the floor in the bathroom heated.
Water drainage
Without a competent water removal system, all the work will be done in vain. Since toilets and bathtubs need to dispose of water somewhere, they won't work without draining.
For homeowners located far from a sewer line, there are two types of systems, fecal pit and septic.
The first method was known to our ancestors. It involves digging a deep hole in the ground. For strength, the walls are reinforced with a metal sleeve or lined with brick.
A septic system is a set of treatment plants that will release into the soil only liquid that has been cleared of large inclusions.
Ventilation
Ventilation in the bathroom must work well. Otherwise, fungi and mold will constantly appear in it.
The most in a simple way organization of ventilation in own home is the creation natural system air circulation.
To create it, you need the ceiling in the bathroom to have two holes. Through the first one will arrive Fresh air, and through the second, moisture is removed.
Also good decision There will be a window installed in the bathroom, if conditions allow, then a constantly open window will create healthy circulation.
However, this method is only suitable for relatively warm areas. If you leave the window open for sufficient big minus, you can not only get sick, but also damage the water supply system.
You can get rid of this danger and improve air flow by installing a hood in the bathroom. Such ventilation will allow you to organize a constant temperature in the room, remove excess moisture and odor and prevent the appearance of mold and fungi.
Layout
For a comfortable existence, everyone needs enough space. Therefore, you should not make the bathroom in a private house, the photo of which can be found below, too small. The minimum area is considered to be 4 square meters. m.
Also, you should not place the bathroom on the other side of the building relative to the bedroom. It is much more comfortable when you don’t have to go far in the morning or at night to wash or take a bath.
It is worth choosing the location of elements and components when drawing up a house project. It is necessary to choose the right places for the drainage communications to exit.
Peculiarities
In a private house, the bathroom is almost always located so that one of the walls is aligned with the street.
To avoid the formation excess condensate and no additional difficulties arise, it is advisable to organize an additional layer of insulation in this area.
When choosing suitable system heating water, you can organize a heated floor without much expense.
Do not forget about protecting electrical circuits and electrical appliances from moisture.
Appearance
In order for going to the bathroom or simply brushing your teeth to bring positive emotions, you need to organize a pleasant design.
The characteristics of the indoor environment require that all surfaces be easy to clean and non-porous. The most common solution is to use tiles.
But in order to do appearance more modern, you can purchase plastic panels. Their a large assortment includes not only different colors, but there are also models with original drawings.
Photo of a bathroom in a private house
Arrangement of a modern bathroom in wooden house requires the use of special construction measures to protect architectural elements from negative impact moisture. In this case, any technological error can be critical and cause irreparable damage to the structure. It is advisable to provide for the installation of a bathroom in a wooden house at the design stage. During calculations, it is necessary to take into account the large weight of the bathroom and, therefore, strengthen the flooring elements. In addition, to improve the operating parameters of the premises, an effective natural or forced ventilation system should be installed, and the issue of water supply and sewerage drainage should be resolved.
Calculated maximum load for floor beams should increase to 460 kg/m2; to ensure such indicators, beams of increased cross-section are taken. In addition, they should be located slightly lower than the beams in other rooms. And one more very important feature wooden houses– significant shrinkage. The arrangement of a bathroom, unlike residential ones, can only begin after the shrinkage has been completely completed, and this requires at least a calendar year.
The bathroom is the place where everyone is concentrated engineering systems at home, some of them require periodic Maintenance. This complicates the tasks for builders; they must isolate the pipelines in such a way as not to restrict access to them for inspection and maintenance.
What are the features of installing elements to ensure safe and long-term operation of the bathroom?
| Name of elements | Description and technical requirements |
|---|---|
| On pipes with cold water Condensation forms, negatively affecting all surrounding wooden structures. To reduce the amount of condensate, it is recommended to use only plastic pipes for water supply; they have lower thermal conductivity compared to metal ones, which minimizes the amount of condensate. Pipes must not come into contact with wooden walls, they should be installed taking into account the possible ingress of condensate. If possible, plastic water tanks should be thermally insulated with special tubes made of polyurethane foam. | |
| Special requirements are put forward for tightness. the main problem- under everyone wooden buildings there are definitely products for natural ventilation. This means that in winter time There is a possibility of sewer pipes freezing; to prevent this phenomenon, they need to be buried in the ground. One more problem. The sewage system operates without pressure; leaks are difficult to notice due to the small amount of water flowing out. But this does not make leaks any less dangerous. To increase the service life of wooden buildings, all pipe connections must be completely sealed. | |
| The bathroom has increased relative humidity. In such conditions, open contacts electrical wiring quickly oxidize, the resistance at the joints increases and the temperature increases. The degree of heating can become critical and cause wooden structures to catch fire. According to the requirements of the PUE, in such places the connection of electrical cables must be as reliable as possible; all end switches are covered with a layer of tin. | |
| Wooden structures must have reliable vapor and waterproofing; it is advisable to use modern materials that allow the elements to “breathe”. Due to this effect, moisture that gets on the tree can evaporate naturally. | |
| A mandatory element in the design of all bathrooms in wooden houses. Some developers do not pay due attention to ventilation and believe that because of it, the heat losses. Regulations require at least 5-fold changes of air in bathrooms. This means that the entire volume of air must be replaced five times within an hour; this indicator can only be ensured by high-quality ventilation. |
bathroom ventilation
These special requirements must be taken into account when arranging a bathroom in wooden buildings.
Step-by-step instructions for arranging a bathroom
As an example, we will look at the most complex arrangement option: the premises are old and require dismantling of the walls, ceiling and floor, and revision of utility networks. During new construction, some operations can be skipped. Old finishing materials from the walls must be removed down to the wood, the floor must be cleaned and the old ceiling must be dismantled.
Step 1. Remove all the finishing of the room down to the skeleton of the house, check the condition of the wooden structures, if any problem areas fix them. The ceiling must be cleared to the floor beams, and the floor to the joists.
Step 2. On rough floor make the screed with a semi-dry mortar, the plane of the screed should lie at the level of the joists. Semi-dry screed has a relatively low weight and good thermal insulation properties, which is why it is recommended to use this material for work. Surface leveling is carried out as a rule; the surfaces of the logs serve as beacons. Allow time for the material to harden.
Step 3. Cover the screed with two layers polyethylene film 200 microns thick. Around the perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to provide turns with a height of approximately 15–20 cm. It is better to do the turns with a reserve, and then carefully trim the film, than to allow the mortar to come into contact with wooden elements. The film is fixed using an ordinary stapler.
Practical advice. Other modern materials can be used for waterproofing. We recommend using film for two reasons: it has the lowest cost, and in terms of efficiency the material is in no way inferior to expensive analogues.
Step 4. Attach damper tape to the walls. It is needed to compensate for the linear expansion of concrete screeds. If it is not installed, then large forces arise between the walls and the floor. As a result, the screed may swell and crack. The thickness of the tape is approximately 4–5 mm, it is also fixed with a stapler.
Step 5. To increase the strength of the concrete screed, lay reinforcement.
It is necessary to use only construction reinforcement of a periodic profile. To raise the bars above the floor, you can use segments plastic pipes height within five centimeters. Lay the rods once across the room, and the second time along the top. The dimensions of the reinforcement must correspond to the size of the room, the distance between the bars is approximately 20–25 cm, the diameter of the bars is 8 mm. To prevent the rods from moving while pouring the screed, tie them together with wire. There is no need to knit often; it is enough to fasten each rod in three places in a checkerboard pattern along the surface of the reinforcement.
Practical advice. To increase the strength of concrete, you can additionally use a chain-link mesh and place it on reinforcing bars. But professional builders They consider it a waste of time and money. The strength of the mesh is much lower than the strength of building reinforcement; it does not have any noticeable effect on the final performance of the concrete screed. Moreover, it lies on top of the reinforcement.
Step 6. Make holes for the sewerage and insert temporary mortgages into them. Subsequently, they are removed and permanent sewer pipes are installed.
Step 7 How to fill the screed correctly? This simple process, but some inexperienced builders make serious mistakes - they make a screed in two layers. The reinforcement is poured first and the beacons are placed second and the surface is leveled. This is explained by the fact that it is difficult to install beacons on the reinforcement, especially if there is a chain-link mesh on top of it. This is strictly prohibited.
Why? Firstly, the adhesion values between two different layers are much less than the strength of a monolithic layer. Secondly, in most cases, the reinforcement is located in the middle of the screed, and in this position it does not work. The reinforcement should be located at 1/3 of the layer thickness, it does not matter whether it is on top or bottom. But not along the axis of symmetry. Only in this position does it compensate for bending forces to the maximum by binding the concrete layer into a single monolithic structure. Conclusion - you need to correctly place the reinforcing layer in height, and pour the screed over its entire thickness at once. It is more difficult to make beacons with fittings, but you don’t need to pay attention to this.
If the installation of beacons is prevented by a chain-link mesh, then they will have to be done in two stages. At first, throw the solution in heaps slightly above the mesh, give time for the solution to harden. After setting, increase the height of the poured mortar under the beacons until required height. For beacons, you can use metal or wooden slats. The bathroom space is small; there should be no problems with accurate installation of beacons. First mark on the walls zero level floor, for this work you need to use a water or laser level. The slats are set along the marked lines, the position is controlled by the level.
Step 8 Prepare cement-sand mortar and make a screed. If the bathroom is small, then in this case you can use a semi-dry mixture. Alignment is carried out as a rule; after completion of work, the slats can be removed or left in the solution.
Work on preparing the base floor for the slab has been completed, you can begin finishing of walls and ceilings.
Step 1. Treat the walls with an antiseptic and a primer; it will increase the adhesion of the surface to the plaster. It is better to treat with a pneumatic spray gun; the jet moves at high speed and penetrates into all the recesses.
Practical advice. If the bathroom has a solid wall, then it is recommended to insulate it with pressed mineral wool at least five centimeters thick. Mineral wool is glued to the wall with a special glue (you can use glue for ceramic tiles), which ensures a tight and durable fit.
Keep in mind that there should be no gap between the insulated surface and the insulation. Air moves freely in the gap, and this sharply reduces the effectiveness of insulation. To increase the stability of fixing the mineral wool, nail it to the wall with long nails; pieces of sheet metal can be used as large heads.
Step 2. Front surface mineral wool finish off waterproofing mastic to protect against moisture. Mineral wool has many advantages, but also two significant disadvantages. As humidity increases, thermal conductivity increases sharply. In addition, it does not dry well, and prolonged contact of wet mats with wooden structures becomes the cause of putrefactive processes.
Step 3. Use the same algorithm to insulate the bathroom ceiling. If two rows of pressed mineral wool sheets are required, they should be staggered to cover the joints.
Step 4. To vapor barrier the ceiling, trim it with any foil material. The overlap between the vapor barrier strips must be at least ten centimeters; for complete sealing, use adhesive tape. Carefully and very efficiently insulate the ceiling when taking water procedures it is exposed to the maximum amount of steam. Wrap the vapor barrier on the walls; the width of the ceiling should be approximately 10 cm.
Step 5. Start installing metal mesh on the walls under the plaster. The mesh is secured with a large pneumatic stapler or nails.
Mesh for plaster. Beacons have been installed. Photo
Important. Be sure to go around the corner with the mesh and do not make joints in this place. This technique eliminates the possibility of cracks appearing in the corners of the plaster.
Make a gap of several centimeters between the mesh and the wall, use various available spacers.
Step 6. Install beacons. This is easier to do with the help of wood screws, a metal strip and a laser level. If you don’t have one, then the beacons can be set with an ordinary plumb line.
- As a rule, determine the most convex place on the surface; to do this, apply it to the wall in several places. This parameter determines the thickness of the plaster layer.
- Screw in a self-tapping screw under the ceiling, attach an ordinary plumb line to it and screw in the lower self-tapping screw at its level. Fix the hardware in one line under a straight rail. If you have enough practical experience plastering works, then instead of a plumb line, you can set the beacons to an ordinary level.
- Do the same operation at the opposite corner of the wall.
- Screw the metal strip onto the self-tapping screws; use special metal plates for fixation.
- Stretch ropes between the two outer slats and install all the remaining beacons along them. The distance between them should be 20–30 cm less than the length of the rule.
Step 7 Check the position of the metal mesh; it should not touch the surface of the walls; if such areas are identified, bend the wire with pliers. According to the electrical wiring diagram, mount the casings of wiring, sockets and switches on the wall. After the wires are pulled inside, the housings should be closed, this will prevent the solution from getting inside.
Step 8 Mount electrical cables, while strictly complying with the requirements of the PUE. If you do not have enough knowledge, then you need to seek help from a professional electrician.
Walls can be plastered without pre-installed boxes, but then special holes will have to be drilled under them and sealed. If you do all the work yourself, then you shouldn’t create for yourself unnecessary problems. At the same time, place mortgages under water sockets, water inlets, etc. Mortgages are needed for all communications that are in the bathroom.
Step 9 Check that the elements are installed correctly, everything is in order - start plastering the walls. This can be done in two ways: traditional manual using a kelly and modern mechanized using a hopper bucket. The first method is very labor-intensive, the second allows you to complete the work much faster and at the same time minimize the amount of labor-intensive work. Ordinary plastering has long been known to everyone; we’ll tell you how to work with a hopper bucket.
Important. Before preparing the solution, the sand should be sifted through a fine sieve. Otherwise, problems will arise with the mechanism for applying the mixture to the wall.
Remember that the thickness of a single layer of plaster cannot exceed 1.5 cm - when a thick layer dries, deep cracks will certainly appear. If your plaster is thicker in some places, you will have to carry out the work in two stages.
- Cover the floor with cardboard or plywood scraps to protect it from liquid plaster. Thick layers of dried plaster can be removed from the floor screed without any problems, but if you level it with your feet, the coating will take a long time to clean.
- Prepare plaster mixture. Add 4-5 parts sand to one part cement and water as needed.
- Use a hopper scoop to scoop up a portion of the solution and throw the first contact layer about one centimeter thick onto the wall.
- Allow time for the plaster to harden slightly and remove excess as a rule.
This completes the first stage; you can continue only the next day. During this time, the solution will harden a little and excess moisture will evaporate from it. If cracks appear, no problem, the second layer will cover them. Finishing layer also apply the plaster with a hopper bucket. Work in sections, immediately remove excess plaster as a rule. Pull it along the beacons from bottom to top, at the same time move it slightly left/right. Throw excess solution back into the container with the mass. The small remaining depressions can be filled with kelly and again leveled with the rule.
Important. When working with the hopper bucket, be sure to use personal respiratory and eye protection.
If the walls are planned to be finished in the future ceramic tiles, then there is no need to align anything else. Before painting, the surfaces must be perfectly leveled with grout. At this point the plastering process is completed, you can begin next stage bathroom arrangement.
Laying ceramic tiles
Start working only after concrete surfaces completely dry, this will take at least two days. Be sure to prime the dry screed to improve the adhesion coefficient.
- Mark the placement of the tiles. Please keep in mind that the seams on the floor and walls must match completely. The axis of symmetry of the tile layout on the floor is located in the middle front door, and not in the middle of the room. This is an axiom for laying tiles in any room.
- Start laying tiles from the floor, prepare a special solution for gluing, and fully follow the manufacturers' recommendations.
Checking the evenness of floor tiles
Practical advice. Trimming the tiles should be done at the invisible junction of the wall and the floor. As a rule, in the place where the bathtub, plumbing fixtures, washing machine and other equipment. If this option is not possible, then cutting the tiles is done symmetrically on both sides; this method somewhat complicates the process of laying the flooring.
Wall tiling
The last stage of arranging a bath is finishing the ceiling. You can use cheap plastic panels; they are not afraid of moisture, are easy to install and are quite durable. In addition, in the implementation there is huge selection various types panels, which makes it possible to create any interior in the room. Plastic panels fixed to a metal frame. If you want to make the frame from wooden slats, then they need to be impregnated at least twice with effective antiseptics.
What you need to consider before making a bathroom in a private house. The most important thing in arranging a bathroom in a private home is communications.
The water supply and wastewater disposal system must be planned in advance during construction. If it is not possible to connect to a centralized water supply, solve the problem using pumping station. In this case, water will be drawn from a well located on your site. In order to be able to use 24/7 hot water, use electric boilers. Spent wastewater must be disposed of. To this end, at summer cottages storage type septic tanks are used.
When improving the bathroom, do not forget about the ventilation system. Thanks to it, moist air will be quickly removed from the bathroom, which will prevent the appearance of fungus in the room. In some cases, it is necessary to create a forced ventilation system.
Style selection
Nothing superfluous, everything is concise and functional! So, you can place the washbasin in a floor cabinet.
This will allow you to hide the communications connected to it from prying eyes and at the same time place shelves with household chemicals and cosmetics behind the cabinet doors.
Should you combine a bathtub and a toilet in a private house?
You must answer this question yourself, based on your own preferences.
If enough people live in the house big family, in which there are children of different sexes and elderly people, then it is advisable to separate the bathroom and toilet. This will reduce the load on the room and make staying in it more comfortable for all family members.
Decorating the walls and floors of the bathroom in the house
As facing material For the bathroom we recommend using tiles.
It has increased moisture resistance, is easy to clean and will have an almost original appearance for a long time. Thanks to modern technologies When making tiles, you can reproduce a huge number of textures and products of various colors. This allows designers to use tiles to create a stylish and modern interior. Also as an alternative to the classic facing tiles use mosaic or marble.
Bathroom heating for home
Because the bathroom should have comfortable temperature at any time of the year, it is necessary to lay warm floors in it. Believe me, the installation costs are not that high, but at the same time you can walk on the tiles barefoot without fear of catching a cold.
Bathroom furniture in a private house
When selecting furniture, try not to overload the decor with large items. In order to make good use of the free space, purchase a corner bathtub or shower stall. The tray in the latter should not be too deep so that all household members can use it without experiencing discomfort.
If you are used to being content with just a bathtub, then we recommend choosing a multifunctional option equipped with a Jacuzzi function with hydromassage.
By the way, today a free-standing bathroom in a private house is very popular. It will make your room look truly luxurious.
Plumbing material
If we talk about the material from which the bathroom should be made, then it is worth mentioning acrylic, metal and cast iron. Each of them has both its advantages and disadvantages. Acrylic allows you to experiment with shape, creating real masterpieces. But at the same time, it is quite fragile and does not tolerate temperature changes, as well as cleaning with abrasive detergents.
Metal coated with enamel is more durable, but less malleable, which is why metal bathtubs often have a standard oval shape.
Cast iron retains heat well. The water in such a bathtub will remain hot for a long time, but at the same time the bathtub will be quite heavy and bulky, which will undoubtedly cause difficulties during transportation and installation.
Furniture
It is better to make the cabinet in the bathroom in the house hinged, so you will save precious meters. When purchasing furniture, pay special attention to the characteristics of the material from which it is made. The main condition that mandatory must be fulfilled - this is moisture resistance.
Decor for a bathroom in a private house
Mirrors and lamps can literally liven up your bathroom decor. To make the interior stylish, try to play with contrast and choose color scheme, directly opposite the tiles on the walls and floors.
Bathroom lighting in a private house
In apartments, the bathroom is most often located in a room that does not have windows, so you have to limit yourself to artificial lighting. In a private home, you have the opportunity to correct this annoying misunderstanding. When choosing a room for a bathroom, we suggest using a room with a window. For artificial lamps, we recommend choosing lamps with closed shades. They are specially designed for use in rooms with high humidity. Original version- spot lighting on the ceiling.
Remember that important role Accessories play a role, so choose them wisely!
August 28, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"
A DIY bathroom in a wooden house is the dream of many owners of country houses and cottages. This dream is quite possible to realize, but in order for our efforts not to be in vain, it is worth carefully studying the finishing technology.
When I was arranging a bathroom in country house from my parents, I had to understand many nuances and master a number of techniques. That's why below I tried to collect all the tips that may be useful.
Secret 1. Without high-quality waterproofing, nothing will work
The first thing we have to think about is waterproofing. Protection from moisture is the cornerstone and the main foundation: let's make a mistake here, and we will have to regularly fight the fungus, and the finish itself will also rapidly deteriorate.
The best way to arrange waterproofing is comprehensive. This means that we will make the floor in the bathroom in a wooden house multi-layered, maximally protecting each layer from moisture. I implemented the following scheme:
- The space under the joists was used to place expanded clay. To do this, the soil in the underground space was covered with a layer of a mixture of sand and gravel (15 cm), and then expanded clay was laid to the upper edge of the log. At the final stage, the expanded clay was filled with liquid cement mortar.
- On top of the joists I installed a rough flooring made of moisture resistant plywood 15 mm thick. This thickness was enough, since the logs were spaced in 50 mm increments, and the flooring did not show the slightest sign of deformation.
- I laid it on plywood waterproofing membrane. The overlap on the walls was made equal to about 10 cm - these sides are designed to provide protection against leakage on the sides.
- I poured a 50 mm thick screed on top. To level the screed, I used beacons, which I then took out and filled the holes at the place where they were installed with mortar.
You can also make a slope towards the water drainage, and place a hole in the floor near the wall, connected to the drain pipe. It is advisable to equip this hole with a grill and a plug that closes the lumen of the pipe. The grate will prevent small objects (rings, earrings, etc.) from entering the sewer, and the plug will act as a barrier to unpleasant odors.
- The dried screed was sanded and treated with a penetrating waterproofing solution.
It should be noted that the floor in a wooden house in the bathroom must be waterproofed simultaneously with the laying of communications, primarily sewer pipes. This is due to the fact that pipe outlets need to be brought into the room through the floor, and it is better to do this in advance - then we will not have to do double work.
The technology for laying sewer pipes in a wooden house involves installing all elements on capital foundation made of brick or concrete to avoid displacement and deformation during wood shrinkage. Areas where the pipe passes through a wall or exits the foundation must be equipped with concrete trays or metal sleeves.
Secret 2. Ventilation forgives many mistakes in finishing
The arrangement of a bathroom communications system in a wooden house necessarily involves installation ventilation system:
- At the top of the wall in one of the corners we leave a ventilation hole - a vent. While repairs are being carried out, it can be covered to prevent it from getting inside. construction waste, and then mask ventilation grille with insect net.
- Ventilation in the bathroom is vented either directly to the street (through the wall), or into a ventilation pipe on the roof - through a special circuit made of metal pipes. In the second case, the air ducts are disguised under a suspended ceiling or laid in the attic.
- To increase efficiency, you can install in the hole itself exhaust fan, powered from the mains. We turn it on after water procedures: in just a few minutes the device will pull out small room all the moist air.
- In order not to have to worry about turning the fan on/off, you can install a small device that turns off the power after a selected period of time. Then it will be enough for us to click the button once - and we won’t have to return to the bathroom.
- The option of connecting ventilation to lighting is also quite viable: they came in, turned on the light - the fan turned on, came out, turned off the light - the fan turned off.
- In addition to air exhaust, it is also necessary to ensure its supply. It is not necessary to equip the walls with special devices (although such valves also exist). It is enough to leave a gap of about 15 mm between the bottom edge of the door and the threshold.
An effective ventilation device in the bathroom is required condition formation of a comfortable microclimate. If humid air is not promptly removed and replaced with fresh, drier air, then condensation will accumulate on almost all surfaces. As a result, the materials used for finishing will gradually become saturated with water, and colonies of fungi and bacteria will develop on this moist and warm substrate.
Secret 3. Proper finishing of walls, floors and ceilings
Floor finishing
Now we should talk about how to decorate the room itself. The priority remains the same - maximum effective protection from moisture.
As flooring I would choose either tile or solid/laminated board. The tiles are laid according to the following scheme:
- If this has not been done previously, treat the screed with a penetrating primer with waterproofing components.
- We prepare tile adhesive, choosing a high-quality moisture-resistant variety.
- Using a grater, apply glue to the floor, and then lay the tiles (you can pre-soak them in water). We lay the tiles in rows, and the seams between separate elements We try to do less cladding.
- After finishing veneering and polymerization adhesive composition(takes about a day) you can start grouting. To fill seams I use polymer composition, providing maximum moisture resistance: yes, applying it yourself is more difficult than standard cement grout, but it also provides much better protection from moisture.
Tile is a universal finishing material for bathroom floors. However, our house is made of wood, and if we want to keep the entire interior in the same style, then the floor can be made of wood:
- For finishing bathroom floors suitable for the room parquet boards or regular tongue-and-groove solid wood boards. Before installation, we bring the material into the room and leave it for at least 48 hours; during this time, the humidity of the air and wood will equalize, and the board will deform less in the first hours after installation.
- The basis for installing a wooden floor in a bathroom can be either a concrete screed or a joist system installed on top concrete base With high-quality waterproofing. In the first case, we will mount the board with glue, in the second - with screws or nails with additional gluing.
- The boards prepared for finishing the floor are laid out on the floor and adjusted to size.
- Then we proceed to installation: starting from one of the corners, we lay the boards on a base treated with moisture-resistant glue, and, if necessary, fix the edges of each board with mechanical fasteners.
- When choosing how to protect wood from moisture, I give preference to complex treatment: first I apply impregnation with waterproofing and antiseptic components to the boards, and then oil with tinting pigments. Instead of oil, you can use a water-repellent varnish, preferably matte, to make the floor less slippery.
Interior finishing made of wood requires periodic renewal of the protective layer, and this applies primarily to the floor covering.
In principle, it is possible to repair the floor using other materials, but then the structure will not be so durable. And the style of a wooden house should be emphasized by choosing a wooden floor or floor tiles under parquet or natural stone.
Wall and ceiling cladding
The decoration of the walls and ceiling in the bathroom of a house made of timber or logs can be done using almost any material. Moisture gets to these surfaces infrequently and stays for a very short time, so it is important for us that the paint, cladding, plaster or wallpaper simply more or less cope with high “background” humidity without deforming or peeling.
And yet, since our house is made of wood, then to maintain the unity of style, I would use wooden cladding - clapboard or glued boards. In this case, we sheathe the ceiling and walls along the frame:
- We install the sheathing on the supporting structures: under the horizontal sheathing - vertical, and vice versa.
- In the place where the wall-mounted sink will be installed, as well as where the shelves are planned to be installed, wall cabinets etc. We install mortgages from timber secured to the wall with anchors.
- Thermal and sound insulation of the bathroom is ensured by laying porous materials in the sheathing. Here my choice is dense panels made of basalt wool who minimally lose their thermal insulation properties when exposed to moisture.
At this stage, we lay the wiring hidden under the casing and draw conclusions for sockets and lamps. All wires are laid in waterproofing, non-flammable casings.
- A hydro- and vapor barrier membrane must be laid on top of the insulation. If you want the bathroom to be very warm, then instead of a membrane you should use foil-coated polyethylene foam.
- Then all we have to do is fix the lining to the sheathing with our own hands. At the same time, in the bathroom, I would recommend abandoning clamps and fixing the boards with thin nails: the less metal there is outside, the less it will rust.
After completing the cladding, we will have to finish the walls and ceiling:
- First, we install additional elements: floor and ceiling skirting boards, moldings, corner trims, etc.
- All wooden surfaces treated with a penetrating antiseptic.
- We apply oil for wet rooms or varnish with water-repellent properties to the cladding of the walls and ceiling.
- We connect sockets and lamps. It is advisable to buy these parts with a sufficient level of moisture protection - yes, their price is higher than that of standard ones, but they are much better protected from short circuits when water drops enter.
However, no one forces us to use exclusively boards for sheathing. Combinations of lining and tiles look quite advantageous (tile the wall behind the bathroom or the lower part of the wall to a height of about 1 m), as well as wood paneling and stretch (fabric or vinyl) ceiling.
Secret 4. Installation of plumbing – everything is in your head
At this stage, the finishing itself is completed with your own hands. And in order for the bathroom to be used, all we have to do is install all the plumbing.
- Let's start with the largest element - the bathtub. We attach the legs to the bowl in advance (if the bathtub is acrylic, then the whole metal carcass), we bring it into the room and install it along the wall.
Siphon, overflow system and other pipes that are attached under the bathtub. It's better to install it in advance too.
- We align the legs, leveling the bathtub, and then finally move the structure towards the wall. We close the gap between the side and the wall with molding and fill it with moisture-resistant sealant.
- We connect the siphon under the bathroom to the outlet sewer pipe in the floor, after which we install a screen covering the side walls of the product.
- To the conclusions of cold and hot water We connect the mixer on the wall. We check its functionality and the tightness of the connection by supplying water to the system.
- We attach the sink to the wall to the mortgage. To fix the product, I use anchors, which I screw into the embedded beam; on a clapboard paneling, even a thick one, the sink will definitely not hold.
If our sink is heavy, then we need to either use long fasteners that will go right through the insert and be fixed in the load-bearing wall, or choose to install the sink in a cabinet. Moreover, the second option seems to me more preferable, since under heavy load even thick anchors become loose over time.
- We attach a siphon to the sink drain, which is connected to the outlet of the sewer pipe.
- We check the tightness of all connections: it is very important that water does not leak anywhere, otherwise the wood (even treated with an antiseptic) may begin to rot.
Conclusion
Finishing in a bathroom in a wooden house should be subordinate to the main goal: protection of load-bearing structures and decorative materials from the harmful effects of moisture (and partially also from temperature changes). Achieving the desired result here is difficult, but realistic – and the tips given, the video in this article, as well as the recommendations that you can get by asking a question in the comments will help with this.
August 28, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
Wooden houses with your own design features differ in many ways from stone or concrete counterparts. In particular, installing a bathroom in such a house was previously almost impossible, since the influence high humidity all adjacent premises were exposed. Today there are no obstacles associated with the location of the bathroom and interior decoration such buildings.
When asked how to make a bathroom in a wooden house, qualified craftsmen give specific recommendations. Following these practical advice, you can competently and quickly equip such a bathroom, thereby extending its service life and the convenience of staying in it.
Often, in addition to the main bathroom, additional guest restrooms are installed in the house. When designing them, it is necessary to mark the equipment installation points in advance. It is better not to design a bathroom next to the toilet and kitchen; it would be more appropriate to arrange the restroom next to the bedroom or between two adjacent rooms.
Before you begin installing or reconstructing such a bathroom, you should draw up a preliminary design for communications and the placement of plumbing in the room. When compiling it, you need to take into account the number of household members.
You will receive a completed interior only if you draw up a preliminary project and think through all the nuances
Before you buy Construction Materials, plumbing and related products, it is necessary to carry out the following preliminary work:
- measure room dimensions;
- choose material for sewer pipes;
- install future location of valves, water pipes, sewer pipes and ventilation systems;
- plan laying wiring and installing lighting;
- define indentations of plumbing fixtures from the walls;
- conditionally place plumbing fixtures.
As a rule, the bathtub is mounted in such a way that its long side is located close to the partition. If the dimensions of the room allow, you can place it in the center. Then it is better to lay communications to the bathtub under a specially made podium. It is recommended to free up a space of 700–1000 mm near the bathtub to make approaching it as convenient as possible.
The shower box model does not have special significance, but most of all usable space A corner configuration with sliding glass doors will save money.
It is recommended to place hooks, hangers and heated towel rails at a distance of no more than 700 mm from the bath or shower.
The sink is usually suspended approximately 800 mm from floor tiles. But you should take into account the height of your household so that using the washbasin is convenient for everyone.
It is necessary to take into account the degree of hydrophobicity of finishing materials
Finishing a bathroom in a wooden house, photos of samples of which can be seen in the gallery of this article, should be carried out using materials that do not allow moisture to pass through. It is recommended to finish the floor tiles, before laying a layer of waterproofing.
When planning the placement of lighting fixtures in the bathroom, it is worth considering the installation of additional spotlights, in addition to the main light source. As a rule, one lighting fixture mounted on the ceiling is used for main lighting. Local lighting is installed in close proximity to the washbasin and mirrors.
Installation of a bathroom floor in a wooden building
In most older houses, the floor beams are made of wood, so the base of the bathroom floor is also made of this material.
As a rule, in wooden houses the base of the floor is also made of lumber
In order to install the necessary plumbing, arrange a floor heating system, lay tiles, hide water supply, heating and sewerage pipes without encountering any difficulties, experts advise constructing the foundation using the joist method. The distance between the beams should be reduced and their thickness increased to strengthen the floor. The floor for a bathroom in a wooden house is usually decorated with the following materials:
- varnished coating made of glued traffic jams;
- porcelain stoneware;
- tiled tile, including mosaic;
- varieties wood, characterized by hydrophobicity;
- laminate waterproof grades;
- linoleum.
In a wooden building, the floor plane of the remaining rooms should exceed the base of the bathroom by 20 mm.
If you are planning to decorate a bathroom in a country style, the coating should be treated with compounds that protect against mold microorganisms, water ingress and the influence of sudden changes in temperature.
Construction of a concrete base
The classic technology for pouring screeds is as follows. A layer of thermal insulation is laid, and a reinforced mesh or grid of steel reinforcement is placed on top of it. If a water floor heating system is to be installed, its pipes are fixed to the cells reinforcement cage, and then high-strength concrete is poured.
The best base for floor tiles is a cement screed
Of course, beacons must be installed before this. After the walls are plastered, ceramic tiles are laid on the floor surface.
Bathroom in a wooden house, equipped concrete screed made using this technology will function for a long time and reliably.
Moisture proofing of the bathroom
It will be useful to find out how to waterproof a bathroom in a wooden house with your own hands. In this type of building, the bathroom must be well protected from moisture, unlike in ordinary houses. Here it is necessary to cover all planes with a layer of insulation, including the ceiling. Wooden base floors should be covered bitumen mastic, onto which the hydrophobic material will be glued.
It is appropriate to install a heated floor system on top of the installed waterproofing in private cottages.
For waterproofing, a variety of polymer films or construction compounds. Typically, the film is laid in two layers over all surfaces of the room. Plaster or screed is applied on top of the insulation layer, after which finishing is carried out.
If you decide to decorate the floor and walls with wood, it is imperative to impregnate it with special hydrophobic and antifungal compounds.
Interior decoration of the bathroom
When considering building materials for finishing bathroom walls, one cannot help but mention drywall. This material is perfect for preparing surfaces for finishing. It should be noted that for use in conditions of high humidity, it is necessary to choose a moisture-resistant variety. Of course, in the case when, as finishing material wood appears, the need for it disappears by itself. When cladding with wood, it is necessary to arrange reliable ventilation, if possible forced.
When selecting materials for finishing, you need to pay attention not only to the attractive appearance, but also to how they will interact with the materials household chemicals, and how easy it will be to carry out routine cleaning and maintenance.
Let's consider a question that interests many owners - how to cover a bathroom in a wooden house. Best choice For finishing the walls and floors in the bathrooms there will be tiles, which are distinguished by a huge variety color palette, sizes, shapes and textures.
Very often, in such buildings, fragmentary finishing is used, when most of the wall area is sheathed with wood, and tiles are laid only in places where there is increased accumulation of liquid, where water pipes are laid and connected. This way you can create an individual and unusual bathroom design.
Fragmented tiling in places where moisture gets in will protect the wall covering
You can highlight the corner where the bathtub is located by mounting a plasterboard structure lined with tiles so that the container is either in a niche or slightly extended relative to the plane of the wall. This technique will help visually zone the space. This effect can be enhanced by installing spotlights. You can also highlight the washbasin area.
When arranging a bathroom in a wooden building, special attention should be paid to protecting the walls from moisture. Waterproofing is quite satisfactory simple method. Before covering the walls with wooden panels or plasterboard, a double layer of special polyethylene film is nailed to their base using a stapler.
Waterproofing the ceiling is done in a similar way. Of course, when using such surface covering technology, the effect of moisture accumulation in the room will be inevitable, since there will simply be nowhere for it to go. Therefore, it is absolutely necessary to equip the bathroom with reliable ventilation.
The nuances of installing a bathroom ventilation system in a wooden house
Without a doubt, the best option for installing ventilation in the bathroom would be to install compulsory system air exchange of supply and exhaust type. This simple job is within the capabilities of anyone.
Ventilation system design
Two air duct pipes are installed under the lintel. The first serves for air supply, and the second for its removal. In the opposite corners of the bathroom, outlets are made from the air channels, directed downward. At the ends of these outlets, at a level with the future plane of the ceiling, sockets are mounted, in one of which an exhaust fan will be installed, and the other will be covered with a special grille. The fan and grille are installed only after the ceiling has been finished.
As you can see, the technology is simple, understandable and does not require any special skills.
Ceiling installation
Arranging a bathroom in wooden building requires the installation of a suspended ceiling. This is due to the fact that such a design will serve as a protective cushion, limiting the access of dampness.
Installation of suspended ceiling
It is known that warm, damp air rises upward and condenses on a horizontal surface. Therefore, the ceiling in the bathroom must certainly be suspended, even if the decision is made to cover it with wooden panels. Besides, similar design allows for hidden installation of ventilation and wiring systems.
The ceiling finishing material must be resistant to moisture. Today, slatted and tile suspended ceiling systems are often installed in bathrooms, which simplify the installation of ventilation and lighting.
By and large, the installation principle for all types of suspended ceilings is the same. Of course, this does not apply plasterboard structures. It is necessary to use exclusively moisture-resistant plasterboard for hanging systems in bathrooms. In addition, the profiles on which it will be attached must be designed for outdoor use, since, unlike conventional ones, they have an anti-corrosion coating.
When filing the ceiling, use only moisture-resistant plasterboard