Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, did not particularly worry about mulching. But today this agricultural technique has become fundamental in achieving High Quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's a hassle. But practice shows that labor costs in in this case pay off handsomely. In this article we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.
Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that “little ones” have always been considered more fashionable, the range of succulents with which you can decorate modern interior, it’s worth taking a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterns, degree of prickliness, impact on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article we will tell you about the five most fashionable succulents that amazingly transform modern interiors.
The Egyptians used mint as early as 1.5 thousand years BC. She's different strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils that are highly volatile. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article we will look at the most interesting varieties mint, and also tell you about the features of growing this plant in open ground.
People began growing crocuses 500 years before our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the harbingers of spring to next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, flowering times may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article is dedicated to the earliest varieties of crocuses, which bloom in late March and early April.
Cabbage soup made from early young cabbage in beef broth is hearty, aromatic and easy to prepare. In this recipe you will learn how to cook delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup with this broth. Early cabbage It cooks quickly, so it is placed in the pan at the same time as other vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup turns out tastier than freshly prepared cabbage soup.
Blueberries are a rare and promising berry crop in gardens. Blueberries are a source of biologically active substances and vitamins and have antiscorbutic, anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, and tonic properties. The berries contain vitamins C, E, A, flavonoids, anthocyanins, microelements - zinc, selenium, copper, manganese, as well as plant hormones - phytoestrogens. Blueberries taste like a mixture of grapes and blueberries.
Looking at the variety of tomato varieties, it’s hard not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners are sometimes confused by it! However, understanding the basics of selecting varieties “for yourself” is not so difficult. The main thing is to delve into the peculiarities of the culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest groups of tomatoes to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been valued by those gardeners who do not have much energy and time to care for their beds.
Once very popular under the name of indoor nettle, and then forgotten by everyone, coleus today is one of the brightest garden and indoor plants. It is not for nothing that they are considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are primarily looking for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant monitoring. But if you take care of them, bushes made of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.
Salmon backbone baked in Provençal herbs provides tasty pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. The champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then sprinkle with apple cider vinegar. These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Wild garlic and fresh dill get along well in one salad, highlighting each other’s aroma. The garlicky pungency of wild garlic will permeate both the salmon flesh and mushroom pieces.
Conifer tree or shrubs on the site is always great, but a lot of conifers is even better. Emerald needles of various shades decorate the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils, released by plants, not only aromatize, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most zoned adults coniferous plants, are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require proper care and attention.
Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the canopy flowering trees have long become an integral attribute of welcoming spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese take place under the sign of their flowering. But sakura grows well in cooler regions - certain types can be successfully grown even in Siberia.
I am very interested in analyzing how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an item of trade, lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century B.C. e. About 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its propagation and cultivation were described.
Delight your family and prepare themed cottage cheese cookies in the shape of Easter eggs! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - sifting the flour, combining everything necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration as the pieces of dough turn into real ones. Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read our step by step recipe!
Among tuberous crops, there are not so many decorative deciduous favorites. And caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to own a caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all, it requires care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of caladiums are never justified. Attention and care can avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And the plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.
We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply easy-to-prepare dish for you today. This sauce is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or anything. Chicken and mushroom gravy will save you in moments when you don’t have time or don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Take your favorite side dish (you can do this in advance so everything is hot), add some gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.
Hello, dear readers! Gladiolus or Swordweed received this name due to the fact that the stems of this slender flower resemble a sword blade.Gladiolus is a very beautiful and noble flower, and bouquets of them are usually given to both women and men.
Now flower suppliers offer such a wide variety of colors, textures, varieties of gladioli - whatever your heart desires, the choice is only yours.
To plant flowers, in addition to gladioli bulbs, you need to purchase soil, a little sand, potassium permanganate, one deep plastic box with pallet and complex fertilizer for flowers. Below I will write why all this is useful to us. I thoroughly studied all the information about the intricacies of planting and caring for this beautiful and whimsical flower. I always wanted to create at home not just a collection of potted plants, but to get a riot of colors and smells of flowers, albeit only within the square meters of my apartment. But if everything goes well, then my gladioli will move to the dacha in open ground.
So, the first thing gladioli require is a sunny place, but there are varieties that fade (lose color saturation) in bright sun. This can be found out by carefully reading the information on the label or checking with sellers or corm suppliers. Gladioli also need to be protected from the wind, since varieties reaching 1 meter or more easily break in the wind if they are not tied up. I think that within the confines of my apartment the wind is not scary for me. But if you want to decorate your garden with gladioli, then choose sunny and protected from strong winds place.
How to grow gladioli from bulbs
We have decided on the place for planting gladioli, now let’s move on to choosing the bulbs. When choosing bulbs, pay attention to their size. Beginning flower growers think that if the bulb is large, then it will give a strong and abundant flowering, but that's not true. If the bulb is large and flat, then it is already an old bulb, which produces weak flowering and produces few new bulbs (babies). The most best onion for planting that will give strong stems and abundant flowering - this is a medium-sized round bulb. This is a strong, young corm that has grown from a baby.
Before planting gladioli bulbs, it is advisable to soak them for 2 hours in a weak (pink) solution of potassium permanganate to avoid various diseases. Before placing the corms in the pink solution of potassium permanganate, they must be cleaned of dry films.
Gladioli are planted in mid-April; they can be planted earlier if the soil is ready and they are not afraid of light frosts. To get more early flowering gladioli, you can plant gladioli bulbs in a plastic box or in special cups for germinating seedlings, adding nutritious soil to them. Next, you need to provide them with light, warmth and regular watering until the roots and shoots sprout. Only after this are the seedlings transferred to the previously prepared open ground.
The soil for planting gladioli is treated with organic and mineral fertilizers. A small amount of sand is also added to the soil and everything is thoroughly mixed. Immediately before planting the bulbs, a handful of sand is poured into the bottom of the hole. It is advisable to prepare the soil for planting gladioli in the fall.
Planting depth of gladioli bulbs big size 8-10 cm, and for small bulbs 3-4 cm. We believe that the depth of the hole should be twice the size of the bulb. The distance between the bulbs is 10-15 cm. And if you want to make rows of gladioli, then maintain a distance of 30 cm between the rows.
We have become familiar with the rules for planting gladioli; now let’s move on to the details of caring for them.
Gladioli planting and care in spring
Beautiful gladioli love water very much. After the bulbs are planted in properly prepared soil, they must be watered abundantly with water that has stood for several hours. Growing gladioli require frequent watering: every 3 days, abundant watering in cloudy weather and every day in the evening in hot weather. sunny weather. If gladioli do not have enough water or the soil is too dry, they will grow poorly and will not bloom. To prevent drying out, the soil between the gladioli is sprinkled with sawdust in a 10 cm layer and covered with fine peat or humus (compost). This coating reduces the difference in soil temperature during the day and prevents weeds from germinating, which in turn increases the flowering of our gladioli.
For brighter, richer flowering, gladioli need to be fertilized. Fertilizing also produces large replacement bulbs, and small corms even bloom in the first year when fertilized. Nowadays, stores offer a large selection of complex fertilizers, which contain both organic and mineral microelements. Personally, I will not write here what fertilizers I use and which manufacturers, since I myself like to experiment and look for something better. I’ll just add that complex mineral fertilizers for flowers work effectively. You can make your own solutions for fertilizing gladioli.
How to fertilize gladioli
We fertilize the gladioli for the first time when the 3rd leaf appears - this indicates that the root system has formed. Fertilize with solution ammonium nitrate or urea. Ammonium nitrate take 60 g per 10 liters of water, and urea 40 g per 10 liters of water. After 10 days liquid fertilizer repeat with the solution.
The next, 3rd feeding is carried out when the 4th leaf appears. The appearance of the 4th leaf of the gladiolus indicates that the flower is preparing to bloom. This time we take 60 g of potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water + 20 g of superphosphate, which we first dissolve in hot water. After feeding, take a handful of ash and scatter it among the flowers on the moist soil. After 10 days we repeat the same thing.
Phosphorus-potassium, 5th fertilizing is done when the flower stem (peduncle) appears. We take 60 g of superphosphate, which we also first dissolve in hot water, and 40 g of potassium per 10 liters of water. It is advisable to repeat the phosphorus-potassium fertilizing after the gladiolus has faded. Don’t forget to add a small amount of grains of potassium permanganate and boric acid to each fertilizer solution.
In the fall, when the gladioli have faded and their leaves have begun to turn yellow, we begin to dig the bulbs out of the ground, without cutting off the stems and roots. Pruning must be done every 2-3 days. We cut the stems to 2-4 cm, we also cut the roots, only lightly. In winter, bulbs can be stored in open boxes, boxes, cotton bags in a cool place at a temperature of +5 - +10. Over the winter, remnants of roots and stems may separate.
Gladiolus needs well-lit, wind-protected and well-drained areas. In the northern regions, even slight shading of gladiolus plantings at any time of the day retards the growth of plants, reduces their decorative qualities and leads to later flowering compared to flowering in areas that are fully illuminated. Phytodesign will help you choose a place intended for planting gladiolus, which should be flat or have a slight slope in the south direction, which ensures drainage of excess water and good soil heating.
Heavy, clayey, peaty and purely sandy soils, highly alkaline and acidic, are unfavorable for gladiolus. Required structure soil is created by adding sand to heavy loamy soils, clay to sandy soil and a sufficient amount of well-rotted compost and humus.
Plant gladioli on ridges, the width of which, for ease of care, is usually 1-1.2 meters, to a depth that depends on their diameter, that is, about 3 times the height of the corm. Post-planting mulching with crumbly peat or peat chips is required, which is scattered over the surface of the planted area in a layer of 3-5 centimeters.
Start preparing the corms for planting about a month before planting by cleaning the gladioli from covering scales. Peel carefully to avoid damaging the sprouts. Cut out the damage, and treat the cut area with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, brilliant green, dust with sulfur or crushed coal.
Place the peeled corms in a single layer, sprout side up, in a bright, dry, warm room. Over 20-30 days in the corm in the light and at low humidity, moderate shoot growth occurs without root growth, although their rudiments already appear on the bottom. Before planting, treat the corms with a solution of Fundazol or Maxim.
Gladiolus responds well to careful care. Water generously - 10-15 liters per 1 square meter. Loosen the soil regularly, including after watering.
Feed for the first time in the phase of appearance of the 2-3rd true leaves. For 1 square meter, add 25-35 grams of ammonium nitrate, 15-20 grams of potassium fertilizer, 30-40 grams of superphosphate. The second feeding is in the phase of appearance of the 5-6th true leaves: apply 10-20 grams per 1 square meter of ammonium sulfate, 15-20 grams of superphosphate and 10-20 grams of potassium sulfate. The third feeding is at the beginning of budding or slightly earlier when the peduncle extends. It ensures good flowering and better formation of corms. Add 30-40 grams of superphosphate and 15-20 grams of potassium chloride per 1 square meter.
Full maturation of gladioli corms occurs 6-8 weeks after the end of flowering. However, in middle lane and in more northern areas, excavation often has to be done earlier. If thrips has spread greatly during the growing season, then 1-2 weeks before digging up the corms, spray the plants with a solution of Fitoverm, Fufanon, Aktellika, Aktara, Intva-VIR. As the temperature drops, the pest moves into the covering scales of the corms, so if there are a lot of thrips, it is also worth treating the corms immediately after digging in an Actellik or Fufanon solution for 30 minutes. If rot is widespread, you can pickle the corms in a solution of the drug Maxim.
Gladioli are quite sensitive to negative temperatures, so plants are dug up before the onset of stable cold weather, usually in late September-early October depending on weather conditions. Approximately 7 - 9 centimeters from the plants, cut through the ground with a shovel. Then deepen the scoop and pry up the corms with a lump of earth. Using pruning shears, trim the stems of the newly formed corms, leaving no stump. Remove the old corm and take a new one left hand, and with your right thumb press on the old one, separating it. After this, trim the roots. Wash the gladioli in water and place them in a bucket of garlic pulp for 2 - 3 hours. Then pre-dry them and take them home. Dry there for another 2 - 3 weeks at a temperature of 25 - 30 degrees. After this, the gladioli should lie at rest for 3 - 4 weeks. room temperature. At this time, look through the corms, remove severely affected ones, cut out sore spots and cover the cuts with brilliant green.
Before storing, gladioli need to be treated against a terrible pest - thrips. Spray them with any preparation suitable for killing cockroaches. Wrap the corms in several layers of newspaper and place them in the refrigerator or balcony door. The temperature should be 3-9 degrees, and relative humidity within 60 percent. It’s a good idea to add cut cloves of garlic to the package and change them from time to time.
The varieties selected by A. Gromov are extremely popular: Gagarin's Smile, Andrei Sakharov, Maya Plisetskaya, Marina Tsvetaeva, Mother, Moscow 850, Ruddy Cheeks, Traffic Light, Sokolniki, Solo Canary, Amber Baltic.
Long years Gladioli were associated with me only from September 1, and these flowers in my mind turned into something cold and official. But one day I wandered into an exhibition of gladioli and became ill with them. It turned out that the name of the plant comes from the Latin word “gladus”, which means “sword”, and was given to it for the shape of its leaves. That’s when I started thinking about how to grow beautiful gladioli in my dacha?
Now my garden is full of gladioli. I put them on sunny place in the beginning of May. I make a hole, pour in some sand, put in a corm, cover it with sand and then earth. As you can see, special soil for gladioli is not required. I feed the plants twice with complex fertilizers: when several leaves appear, I add nitrogen, and the second time, when buds appear, I add potassium and phosphorus. Those. and fertilizers for gladioli are the most common. I water the plants generously, trying not to get it on the leaves, and loosen them often.
How to grow gladioli in the country?
If I really like a variety of gladiolus, then I propagate it by dividing the corm into three parts so that each has a sprout and a piece of the bottom. I lubricate the cuts with brilliant green. Each “piece” will bloom in the summer.
In the fall, a month after flowering and after the first frost, I dig up the plant, cut off the leaves and lightly dry the corms. Then I free them from the remaining stems and soil and dry them at home on top of the kitchen cabinets for a month. Then I wrap it in paper and put it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. And a month before planting, I take it out, treat it against diseases and pests, and lay it out on the windowsill. If I see that the bulbs are damaged by thrips (because of this, the gladiolus will not bloom), I buy a suitable insecticide, put the corms by variety in bags, spray the drug into them and tie them up. And after 2-3 days I take them out and put them on the windowsill again. Also, to save flowers from diseases, you can hold the corms in hot water (50-55°C) for 15 minutes, then rinse them in cold water and dry.
Here are the domestic varieties of gladioli that I liked the most:
. "Peacock feather". The flower is green-pink. The edges of the petals are bright pink. There are 21 buds in the inflorescence, 7-8 flowers are open at the same time. Height 140-150 cm, inflorescences - 75 cm.
Peacock feather
. "Czardas". The flower is 14.5 cm in diameter, highly corrugated. The color of the flowers varies from milky crimson to bright crimson. Plant height 150 cm, inflorescences 75 cm.
. "Cranberries in sugar." The flowers are 13 cm, pale crimson with a dark cherry spot. The height of the plant is 170 cm, the inflorescence is 80 cm. Of the 22 flowers, 12 are open at the same time.
Cranberries in sugar
. "Grand Duchess Elizabeth". The flowers are pale salmon with a golden hue, 14.5 cm in diameter, corrugated. Plant height is 150 cm, inflorescences are 70 cm.”
Grand Duchess Elizabeth
Dear Olga. We will add to your useful experience for site visitors Additional information about how to grow beautiful gladioli.
Gladioli in the budding phase require more phosphorus and potassium. With a sufficient amount of these elements, flowering will be good, and the corm will gain the necessary supply nutrients. For feeding, superphosphate (phosphorus) and potassium chloride or potassium sulfate (potassium) are best suited. Fertilizers should be applied to the furrows between the rows in liquid form at the rate of: 25 g/m² superphosphate and 15 g/m² potassium chloride or potassium sulfate. Since superphosphate does not dissolve in water, it must be filled with water for a day, and the infusion should be shaken thoroughly before adding it to the soil. Before and after fertilizing, water the plants thoroughly.
Gladioli are cut at the moment of full opening of the lower flower in the inflorescence. The remaining flowers will open gradually in a vase of water over two weeks or more. To ensure a smooth and neat cut, you need to use sharp knife or pruning shears. On a plant left in the garden, it is recommended to leave as much more leaves(at least four), which will “work” on the corm.
To avoid damaging the leaves remaining on the plant when cutting, you can perform the operation in this way: using a narrow knife sharpened on both sides, pierce the stem in the place where the fourth and fifth leaves diverge, and then, holding the plants with one hand below the puncture, simply pull them out with the other peduncle
Summer cottage impossible to imagine without flowers. Russians grow a lot of things to decorate their plots. For example, experienced florist Svetlana Khomchenko from Yaroslavl. She told us how to plant gladioli correctly. “Whatever flowers I have grown in my life - roses, carnations, and tulips - I have ordered from all over the country. But gladioli became my main love. I tested more than 500 varieties and selected the best, disease-resistant and most decorative. And the agricultural technology was worked out to the smallest detail. I was even going to write a brochure: Flowers in the country - growing and breeding gladioli.
How to care for gladioli
Over the summer I fertilize several times, starting when the third or fourth leaf appears: first with mullein infusion, then with chicken infusion or a weak infusion of pigeon droppings. After watering and rain, the plants receive another portion. Gladioli can be fed with chlorophyll extract - fill a 10-bucket barrel with grass, weeds, fill it with water and add 100 g of caustic soda. After a week, the fertilizer is ready, I throw out the rough stems with a pitchfork, and you can feed all flower and garden crops by diluting 1 liter of infusion in 1 bucket of water.
After the appearance of the fourth leaf, I systematically spray the gladioli against pests with chlorophos or karbofos (0.3% solution) at intervals of 10 days, or with an infusion of garlic or tomato stepsons. Against diseases, I spray the plants with 0.3% foundation 3 times a season.
In the fall, after digging up gladioli, I burn corms with obvious signs of disease, and cut the stems of healthy ones short, wash them in water, soak them for 20 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and dry them during the day in the wind and sun. Then I dry it for 2-3 weeks near heating devices (you can hang it in gauze bags). By the end of drying, the old mother corm is easily removed (if with difficulty, then it is either not completely dry or sick). A diseased corm must be destroyed to avoid infecting healthy ones.
I separate the corms and baby bulbs and store them by variety in paper bags or bags in the coolest place in the apartment or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. For better preservation, I powder them with naphthalene and foundation. Of course, powdered material cannot be stored in the refrigerator.
When and how to plant gladioli
In the spring, a month before planting, I clean the gladioli corms and arrange them in boxes in one layer. Before planting, I soak the corms and the cleaned baby for 10 hours in a solution of 0.5% succinic acid(growth stimulator), then for 20 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. I add 3 g of foundationazole per 1 liter to both solutions. I plant gladioli corms in late April - early May, as soon as the soil thaws to the depth of a spade bayonet.
Many people ask me, at what depth to plant gladioli? When planted deeply, the flowers form few children; when planted shallow, they produce a large corm and many children. I plant large corms, depending on the soil, to a depth of 12-20 cm according to a 20x25 cm pattern.
Shoots will appear when the threat of frost has passed, during which time the gladioli will form a powerful root system. And, conversely, when planted late in hot weather, the plant develops green mass without creating a good root system. After the emergence of seedlings, you can mulch the plantings with overripe litter from sawdust from chickens or chaff.
I pour sand in a layer of 3-5 cm into the planting furrows or put sphagnum moss. Planting in fresh horse manure gives excellent results. Two weeks before planting in the ground, I place the cleaned babies in 5-6 pieces in film cups. After the shoots emerge, I plant the cups in the ground at intervals of 25 cm.
Depending on the variety and size of the corm, gladioli bloom in July-September.”
In my dacha, gladioli grow well and produce powerful flower stalks. But for some reason the buds only bloom halfway and then fade. What's the matter? (Fedor Grachev, Lipetsk region)
The most likely reason for this is diseases and pests of gladioli, primarily gladiolus thrips. This is a small insect, up to 1 mm, which is quite difficult to see with the naked eye. Larvae and adult insects suck juices from the most tender parts of the gladiolus - young growing leaves and bud petals. Silvery spots form on buds affected by numerous punctures, and in case of massive damage, the buds do not bloom and wither.
How to resist diseases and pests of gladioli?
Thrips overwinter on corms, under the covering scales. Therefore, gladioli should be stored at a temperature of 4-6°. With more high temperature thrips wakes up and damages the corm. To prevent diseases and pests, before planting, gladioli corms should be soaked for 30 minutes in a solution of Decis or Intavir.
During the growing season, gladioli affected by diseases and pests should be sprayed repeatedly with special preparations, starting in June. "Aktara" gives the greatest effect. Processing should be carried out in dry and warm weather. Rain will negate all your efforts, and in cold weather gladioli pests are not active.
In autumn, thrips go underground or into the covering scales. Therefore, when digging up gladioli, the leaves must be cut off immediately, leaving a stump of no more than 1 cm, and the old corm must be broken off. Remove all plant debris from the planting site along with leaves and old corms and burn. It is advisable to immediately treat the corms themselves against thrips, and then send them to dry.
If diseases and pests of gladioli are not controlled, the corms will become depleted and eventually you will not have flowers.
In regions with a mild climate (warm winters, in early spring, hot, long summer) begin preparing gladioli corms for planting from the end of January to March, in regions with a cold climate - from the beginning of April. Corms are sorted into groups depending on the timing of flowering and carefully cleaned of scales (destroying specimens affected by fungal diseases), treated against diseases and with microelements, and laid out for vernalization.
If the gladioli corms were properly prepared for wintering and stored in proper conditions, then the likelihood of their premature awakening is minimized. In winter and spring, corms are inspected once every 3-4 weeks in order to promptly detect undesirable phenomena (thrips attack, disease development, signs of early awakening) and take the necessary measures to preserve the collection. It happens that in March, gladioli corms (especially early and mid-early varieties) begin to grow: their root tubercles swell and sprouts begin to appear, sometimes reaching significant sizes (up to 8 cm).
Corms with sprouts discovered during the inspection are dried in a warm room for several hours (corms with dry scales - for less time, and if there was high humidity- longer), placed for further storage in a cold place (preferably with a temperature of +1 degree or slightly higher). A week before planting, these corms are taken out of storage, carefully cleaned (so as not to damage the sprouts and roots) and placed sprout up in low boxes, the bottom of which is powdered with dry peat. If there are a lot of such corms, then they can be carefully laid out in boxes or crates in 2-3 tiers, protecting the root tubercles from damage and without pinching the sprouts by neighboring corms. Boxes and drawers with sprouted corms are placed on light shelves and window sills in a room with a temperature of 25-30 degrees. Such specimens are planted in the garden very carefully, protecting the sprouts from breaking off and the roots from damage (they cannot be pressed into the soil, because damaged roots of gladioli are not restored). These gladioli bloom half a month earlier.
You can plant some of the sprouted gladioli corms in bowls, but it’s better to use larger ones for this. peat pots(in order to plant them in the ground along with plants in the spring), thus avoiding transplantation, which gladioli are sensitive to. Gladioli planted in peat pots will need to be kept in a cool and very bright place (preferably on a glassed-in loggia or in a cool greenhouse), watered very limitedly so that the leaves do not stretch too much, otherwise after planting in the ground the long leaves will be vulnerable to the wind and break, flowering in This year we won’t have such gladioli anymore. After planting in the ground, it is advisable to initially cover gladioli grown in pots from the sun and wind with covering material. Several gladioli corms can be planted in large flowerpots and grown in the summer on a balcony or in the garden as ordinary tub plants (do not replant them in open ground).
Nature itself has instilled in man a love for plants and flowers. People are fascinated by planting and caring for gladioli in pots, they admire the magnificent flowers, inhale the floral aroma, and watch their growth and development. Even indoors, a person strives to surround himself with beautiful living plants. The gladiolus flower, due to its voluminous and long root, belongs to garden crops. But breeders were able to develop special varieties of gladioli suitable for growing both at home and outdoors.
Rules for planting gladioli in pots
The gladiolus flower, due to its splendor and beauty, is called the “gladiator's dream”. By ancient legend Gladiolus is considered the flower of gladiators who did not want to fight with their opponents. Until now, gladiolus is a symbol of friendship, nobility and memory!
How to plant gladioli in a pot:
- Selection of landing capacity. These should be spacious pots, flowerpots, cache-pots or containers with a diameter of 20 to 30 cm and a depth of 30-40 cm.
- Drainage is required. Excess moisture is harmful to gladioli, so drainage material at the base of the container and special holes in the bottom of the pot are prerequisites for a beautiful and powerful flower.
- Soil base. Airy and structured soil is suitable for planting and caring for gladioli in pots. For the plant to grow well, the soil must be nutritious and moisture-absorbing.
- Planting material. Only whole, healthy bulbs should be selected for planting. suitable varieties with a stem height of no more than 50 cm (miniature or small-flowered).
- Disembarkation time. The time range for planting gladioli is quite wide - from late March to mid-May.
Gladioli are planted in pots in March, and planting closer to summer is not prohibited - in mid-April and early May. The bulb is deepened into the planting soil by 10 or 12 cm, and the distance between them should not exceed 5-6 cm. After 2 or 3 weeks, you will be able to enjoy the first shoots. The ideal place for pots with gladioli is where it is windless, sunny and warm; the plants should not be exposed to rainwater. To better understand the technology, watch a video of planting gladioli in pots.
Growing gladioli indoors and outdoors
Gladiolus belongs to the iris family; there are about 5,000 varieties in the world, varied in shape, appearance and color. Distinctive feature gladioli - long flowering period and long life after cutting.
Is it possible to plant gladioli in pots? Yes, this flower is great for landscaping balconies and loggias; flower pots can be displayed on paths in the garden and on summer cottage, lush flowering can transform an apartment and a private house. For every amateur or professional gardener, growing gladioli will be an interesting and exciting activity, and if all the rules are followed, you can achieve a stunning effect - long-term and lush flowering until the fall.
Continuous flowering of gladioli is maintained by planting additional seed rhizomes in pots, cache-pots or containers every 2 weeks. This method is ideal for low growing variety gladiolus
Caring for gladioli flowers without mistakes
in pots suitable for dwarf, miniature, small-flowered and medium-flowered varieties of gladioli. This allows a person to decorate his house and balcony, grow beautiful gladioli in the country house and in the flowerbed, plant flowers in hanging planters and floor flowerpots. Decorative properties gladioli are preserved provided that the soil is sufficiently moist; excess moisture can destroy the plant. Watering at home should be carried out at intervals of 3 times a week. Outdoors on hot days it is necessary to water the flowers twice a day - in the morning and evening hours. It will be useful to sprinkle the soil with mulch, which retains moisture well and protects against mold.
Proper feeding is the key to long and beautiful flowering of gladioli.
Mineral mixtures based on nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are suitable for this, organic fertilizers and substances to stimulate growth. The first fertilizing can be done at the stage of the appearance of the third leaf, the second time the fertilizer is applied when the sixth leaf grows. It is advisable to further fertilize during the formation of inflorescences.
Gladioli in pots outdoors - requirements:
- Preparation. Experts recommend soaking the seed material before planting in a solution of potassium permanganate with a concentration of 0.1% for half an hour.
- Landing. The rules for planting in outdoor conditions remain unchanged: a container of sufficient width and depth for planting, drainage to the bottom, fertile and loose soil. Planting is allowed to a depth of 10-12 cm from the end of March to the end of May, maintaining a small interval between gladiolus bulbs.
- Watering. Soil in containers dries faster than open ground, so the soil in a pot or flowerpot should be well moistened, but without excess moisture. Therefore, plants should be watered based on environmental conditions and air humidity. Root system gladioli requires systematic loosening of the soil; crust formation negatively affects the development of the plant and the quality of the flowers.
- Feeding. Gladioli should be fertilized at the root and outside the root system. Mineral fertilizers applied 4 times - on the 3rd leaf, on the 6th leaf, the next - during budding and at the beginning of flowering. Organic substances are introduced if necessary, growth stimulants are added twice during the summer season - these can be the preparations Zircon and Epin.
- Protection. Diseases often attack gladioli in pots when planting and caring for them. Prevention and careful observation of the flower will avoid the death of gladiolus from pests.
- Loosening. Unique loves light and airy soil. When a crust forms on the surface, the process of rotting may begin, as a result the plant will die or lose its spectacular appearance. appearance. It is necessary to loosen the soil around the stem around the perimeter of the pot.
Due to the external resemblance of gladiolus leaves to swords, its second name is sword. These delicate and graceful flowers are universal - they can be grown in open ground on the street or in the garden, as well as in room conditions on a windowsill, balcony or loggia. The incredible bloom of gladioli can be preserved throughout the summer until the coldest weather, provided that they are cared for conscientiously and accurately.
Video about gladioli in a flowerpot