Step 1. We print out the purchased bathtub and the factory frame and lay it out on a clean floor, having previously laid it soft cloth or cardboard. In the set of fasteners you will find short and long metal profiles, self-tapping screws, legs and pads for them (thrust bearings), dowels, studs, washers, nuts, stands. Depending on the configuration, the number of parts may be different, for example, the reinforced frame contains more metal profiles, or the bathtub is supplied immediately with an all-welded frame.
Typically, holes are already drilled in the reinforcement and dowels are inserted. This eliminates the need to mark and drill holes yourself.
Most acrylic bathtubs are installed not only on the frame, but are also fixed along the line adjacent to the walls with metal hooks and hangers.
If the kit does not include drain fittings, it must be purchased, taking into account the height of the legs and comparing it with the dimensions of the siphon.
For work you will definitely need screwdrivers, wrenches and pliers. Also do not forget about the sealant on silicone based, bubble level, tape measure and pencil.
Step 2. We start by assembling the frame and legs. Turn the bath over without removing it protective film from the inner surface. We provide easy access to any side of the bowl.
Using long self-tapping screws, we connect the profiles. We rely on the instructions attached to the acrylic bathtub and the correspondence of the holes in the longitudinal reinforcement with the dowels installed in the transverse strips.
We place the assembled frame exactly in the center of the bottom of the bathtub.
Step 3. Let's move on to installing the legs. We will install three pieces on the front edge of the bathtub, two under the bottom of the bowl and two more at the edge that will be adjacent to the wall.
We begin to fasten the racks to the profile and side of the bathtub. We install the stand on the side, screw the first long pin into it, and a nut onto the pin. We insert the resulting pin with a stand into the hole of the longitudinal metal profile. Secure the stud with a nut and locknut. We screw a plastic support on top.
We assemble the remaining support legs in the same way. We adjust the height of the legs depending on the dimensions of the decorative screen. The approximate height from the floor to the edge of the side should be 60 cm.
Short studs are intended for the legs located under the bottom of the bathtub. We insert them into the holes of the transverse profiles, secure them with nuts and screw on the plastic supports.
Step 4. Check the assembled frame with a bubble level.
If necessary wrench Tighten the studs to level the position.
We take short self-tapping screws and fasten the racks to the sides of the bathtub.
Step 5. Turn the bath over. We take a level and once again double-check the horizontality of the sides. There is no need to make slopes for better water flow.
Step 6. Now you can connect the siphon with overflow, based on the manufacturer's instructions. General principle connection of inspection siphons (piping) of the knee type is as follows:
Note! Before the stage of final installation of the bathtub and screen, you can insulate the bottom of the bowl with polyurethane foam, applying it in a thin stream to the sides, bottom and partially grasping the fasteners for the purpose of their additional fixation.
Step 7. When the siphon is assembled and the bathtub is level, all that remains is to make markings on the walls, drill holes and fix brackets or hooks on the wall that will hold the bathtub. We put the edge of the bathtub on these hooks, and insert the free end of the thick siphon corrugation into the sewer hole. After joining, we apply a strip to the junction of the bathtub and the wall silicone sealant and attach the baseboard or protective strip.
Note! To check the quality of the siphon installation and the correct installation of the structure, you should take a full bath cold water and wait a few hours. If no leaks or distortions are found, you can drain the water and install decorative screen and use the bathroom. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble and reassemble all products in order to eliminate defects.
Step 8. Install the decorative screen. Clip fastenings are included. Screwed first top mounts, after which the opposite ones are the lower ones. The decorative panel simply “snaps” onto them.
Attach the squeeze plates to the inserts, setting a distance of 2 mm between the side of the bath and the edge of the squeeze plate 
You can also make a frame for decorative panel from wooden blocks or metal profiles.
Installing a bathtub on bricks
No factory frame? No problem! We can install an acrylic bathtub on bricks. This option is even more reliable compared to the method of installing a bathtub on a factory-made frame.
The support can be solid or columnar.
Installing a bathtub on a solid brick base
First step. We temporarily install the bathtub in the place of its future installation and project a drain hole onto the base. This will give us the opportunity to leave a gap in the substrate for connection.
Second step. We lay out the bricks over the entire supporting part of the container. We select the height so that the sides of the bath rise above the floor by no more than 600 mm. At the same time, we take into account that we will still have a 2-3 cm pillow made of polyurethane foam.
The bricks are laid on traditional cement mortar.
Third step. We assemble a frame made of sheet plywood around the perimeter of the brickwork. The height of such sheets should exceed the masonry by the thickness of the foam substrate. Don't forget to leave the drain hole unfilled.
Fourth step. We evenly foam the surface of the substrate with polyurethane foam, without going beyond the boundaries of the frame. We immediately apply pre-prepared sheet plywood onto the foam. We use moisture-resistant sheets 10 mm thick.
Fifth step. Seal the drain tightly acrylic bathtub. At the same stage, we prepare about a liter of water and wooden supports to regulate the level of installation of the container.
Sixth step. Pour the previously prepared water into the container and place the bath on the substrate according to construction level.
Seventh step. While the polyurethane foam has not hardened, we adjust the evenness of the installation of the bathtub using supports. As a result, the water in the container should be evenly distributed around the drain, and the level should show “0”.
Eighth step. Having aligned the bathtub, pour water into it to about half the volume. Under the weight of water, the foam will not be able to lift the container, and the bath itself will take on the required slope.
Ninth step. Let the foam dry and remove the bath. If the edges of the container must be recessed into the wall, first outline the outline of the edge on the surface, and then make a recess in the wall for the edge of the bath. A hammer drill will help us with this. If a groove is not provided (this is not recommended if the walls are made of blocks, plasterboard or other lightweight material), at the level of the lower cut we simply fix a timber impregnated with , or a steel corner. We will additionally strengthen the supporting bar at the end with stops.
Tenth step. We return our container to its place and connect it to the sewer. We fill the gaps between the container and the bricks with foam. We install a decorative screen and baseboards.
Example of a bathtub installed on bricks with mosaic finishing 
First step. We bring the container into the bathroom.
Second step. We mark the base at the location where the brick supports are installed. Most correct option– erection of pillars closer to the edges of the bend of the acrylic bathtub. If the container is long, an additional support can be erected in the middle.
Third step. Having outlined the places for laying the supports, we begin to prepare cement mortar. We are not preparing too much - we have to lay out no more than 20 bricks, so extra expenses We don't need it.
Fourth step. Let's start laying. We place the support for the back of the bathtub at a height of 190 mm, and the pillar for the front edge of the tank is erected at 170 mm. The height of the middle support, if needed, is selected according to the situation, depending on the design of the bathtub being installed. The difference in height of the pillars will provide conditions for efficient drainage of water from the tank.
Important note! Many modern acrylic bathtubs initially have a sloping bottom to ensure water drainage. If you have such a bathtub, set all the supports level, focusing on the top part.
Fifth step. We give the masonry about a day to dry and install the bath. We place the container slowly, moving it tightly towards the walls. We fill the gaps between the bricks and the bathtub with sealant.
If desired, you can additionally fix the bath to the wall using dowels and a metal profile. This type of fastening is used quite rarely, but still occurs.
After making sure that the bathtub is installed correctly, firmly and evenly, we connect the sewerage system, install it, mount a decorative screen and lay the baseboard on the bathtub.
Video - Installing an acrylic bath using a combined method
Video - How to install an acrylic bathtub yourself
Video - Installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands
Installing a bathtub is a responsible, but relatively uncomplicated undertaking. If you really want to do the installation work, you can on our own by refusing services third party specialists and saving significant money.
To make the process as easy, fast and interesting as possible, you need to carefully prepare for it.
On modern market sanitary equipment presented acrylic, steel and cast iron bathtubs.
Cast iron containers – time-tested option with impressive service life and heat saving performance. The material is resistant to various loads and generally does not cause any complaints.
The only unpleasant moments are high price such products, as well as heavy weight. Due to the significant mass of the bathtub, installing it yourself can be difficult - you will have to hire an assistant.
Acrylic bathtubs have many advantages, among which:
- light weight;
- almost complete absence of noise when filling with water;
- many different shapes, sizes and configurations;
- affordable price.
Steel bathtubs also weigh little and are relatively cheap, however When filling such a container with water, a lot of noise is created. And steel products do not last long.
So, if you have enough budget and want to buy the most durable and reliable product, give preference to a cast iron bathtub.
If the most priority characteristic for you is non-standard shape and configuration as well as beautiful and modern appearance, buy an acrylic product.
If there are no special requirements for the parameters of the bath and desire to save money, feel free to install a steel container. Otherwise, the choice is yours, and the article “” will help you decide faster.
Deciding on the size and shape of the container
The modern market offers bathtubs of a wide variety of shapes (oval, circle, rectangle, corner and non-standard designs) and sizes (on average from 1.2 to 2.1 m).
When choosing the configuration and dimensions of the container, focus on your preferences and available space.
Think about how the new bathtub will fit into the interior of the room, whether it will fit in at all, whether it will be convenient to use the room after installing such a bathtub, etc. In general, these points are left to your discretion..
But there is a number of standards and requirements regarding various clearances and spacing. So at what height should a bathtub be installed correctly and what distance should there be between other elements in the room?
- Before the bath you need to leave order 90 cm free space, as much as possible.
- The size of the space between the toilet and the bathtub should be not less than 75 cm.
- The distance between the top edge of the bathtub without legs and the floor should be about 0.5 m, if the bathtub has legs, this figure increases to approximately 64 cm.
Preparation for installation
Regardless of the chosen material for making the bathtub, for its installation you will need the following tools and accessories:
- Screwdriver Set;
- small grinder;
- chisel;
- level;
- hammer;
- gas key;
- cement mortar;
- insulating tape;
- polyurethane foam;
- drain fittings;
- corrugation with a diameter of 4 cm, rubber cuff 4x5 cm if connected to cast iron pipes, drain-corrugation of 5 cm when connecting to plastic pipes.
It is best to install the bathtub before tiling the walls.– in such a situation, the risk of damage to the finish is significantly reduced.
You need to do the following:
- shut off the water supply;
- dismantle old bath;
- break out the (plastic) or cut out the (metal) old drain;
- clean the sewer socket and insert the corrugation into it, then thoroughly coat all joints with a silicone-based sealant;
- level the floor if necessary.
When choosing a place to install a new plumbing product, remember: after installing the bathtub, there should be access to the pipes, but at the same time, the container should fit as tightly as possible to the wall.
At the end all you have left is remove construction waste.
Step-by-step instructions for acrylic products
The installation of such a product is carried out in a few simple steps. All you need is follow the given instructions, and everything will definitely work out.
Installation of frame/legs
How to properly install a bathtub with legs or a frame yourself? We do the following:
- unpack the supporting elements;
- turn the bath over and mark on its bottom the places where the legs are attached. One should be placed near the head of the bath, the second closer to the drain hole;
- Drill holes for screws according to the marks.
- screw the mounting brackets to the bathtub. For this we use self-tapping screws. We screw the legs of the sanitary ware to the installed mounting brackets.
The hole depth should be no more than 0.6 cm. Be careful not to drill all the way through the bathtub. For greater convenience, mark the drill using insulating tape.
Siphon connection
We work in the following order:
- first we do connecting the top drain hole, and after – the lower one;
- we assemble the siphon;
- we treat surfaces with a solvent to thoroughly degrease them, and then apply a thick layer of sealing agent.
The choice of siphon should be given Special attention. The best option- This chrome plated brass product with a semi-automatic system for opening/closing drain taps.
About installing storage electric water heater you can read in.
Connection to sewerage
One of last stages Each of the above instructions was to connect the bathtub to the sewer. Let's take a closer look at this process.
Kits for connecting the bathtub to the sewer are sold unassembled. We begin work by assembling the system.
First we need to assemble the individual nodes. To do this, take the hose through which the overflow and drain are connected, and put gaskets on it.
The gasket is made on a cone. It needs to be arranged thin side towards the ends of the tube.
Then we put nuts and gaskets on the drain design elements and assemble its body. To do this, screw part of the body to one side and the drain neck to the other. In the end you get a water seal - a ready-made system of tubes.
In order for the connections of structural elements to be of the highest quality and reliability, we place the cone-shaped gasket so that one of its parts fits into internal diameter the second part to be connected and sealed the resulting joint under the influence of a plastic nut.
Our next task comes down to connection of the drain body with the drain pipeline. To do this, we insert the pipeline into the drain body, not forgetting about the rules for installing the gasket, and then tighten the connection using a nut.
Next we proceed to assembling the overflow. To do this, put on the O-ring, and then insert the body of the overflow system from the inside of our new bath. Apply to the front side decorative overlay, and then secure the structure with a bolt.
Next to us you need to insert the tube into the overflow body. We do this from the inside of the bathtub. The tube will provide a connection between the drain housing and the overflow.
We attach the drain body to the bathtub. Before doing this, insert the gasket into the drain hole of the bathtub. We place the gasket with the thick side under the bathtub, and the thin side with it. front side.
Attaching the drain body from the inside, then place the drain neck on the drain hole. It must be located on the front side of the sanitary ware.
Attach the drain to the bathtub using a bolt. Carefully tighten the bolt and tighten the rubber sealing gaskets.
Connect the hose from the overflow hole to the drain body and secure it with a plastic nut. We connect the drain hose to the sewer system.
The bath is connected to the sewer. Turn on the water and check the tightness of the connections. If it drips somewhere, carefully tighten the nuts.
We tighten the plastic nuts only by hand, without using any additional tools.
At the end, all that remains is to complete the finishing touches, if you want it or the design idea requires it.
Finishing
There are several main options for finishing the bathtub. You can do the following:
- tiling the bathtub;
- close the space between the top edge of the bathtub and the floor with moisture-resistant plasterboard;
- install a ready-made decorative screen.
Choose a method that do you like best, and get to work.
Regardless of the chosen method finishing, you must leave windows for access to drains and pipes so that if they break down, you can easily carry out the necessary repair measures. It is strictly forbidden to close these places tightly.
Now you own everything necessary information For self-installation and bath connections. Follow the recommendations received, and everything will definitely work out.
Good luck!
Bathroom renovations are always associated with large financial costs, which seriously undermine the family budget. The high cost of finishing is explained by the complex microclimate of this room, which requires the use of special expensive materials, as well as high complexity installation work for plumbing equipment.
When money and effort come to an end, wanting to save money, many homeowners wonder how to install a bathtub with their own hands. In this article we will tell you how to properly prepare a bathroom for installation and install the washing container yourself.
Premises requirements
Before you begin installing plumbing equipment, you need to carefully prepare the room for work. From the quality of execution preparatory work depends on the correct installation and operation of the bath. By the time the new wash container is delivered, the bathroom should be in the following condition:
Note! When renovating a bathroom, it is important to follow the correct sequence of technological operations. Installation is carried out exclusively on a leveled and tiled floor. But finishing the walls should be done only after connecting the plumbing equipment, so that there is a minimum gap between the wall and the washing container.
Installation methods
Installing a bathtub with your own hands is a responsible process of putting it on display. required height and connecting the washing container to the sewer and water supply systems. Installation can be done different ways, depending on the size, shape and weight of the equipment. Experienced professionals recommend using the following methods:
Please note that the correctly chosen method of installing a bathtub extends the service life of the product, ensures comfort and safety when using it. In addition, by performing installation, you can improve performance model, reducing the noise and thermal conductivity of the walls using insulating material.
Installation sequence
The process of installing a bathtub consists of several stages: bringing the device into the room, connecting to sewer system, fixing the legs, aligning the bowl to the building level, as well as connecting with plumbing system. The difficulty of the task lies in the large weight of the washing container, so it is quite difficult to install it alone. Install the bath in the following order:
Important! Optimal height The sides of the bathtub, recommended by SNiP, are 60-65 cm, since installing a washing container at this level causes less injury and inconvenience. A minimum distance from the floor to the bottom of the bowl, sufficient to connect a siphon with overflow - 10-15 cm.
Checking and sealing the joint
Do-it-yourself bath installation ends with checking the functioning of the system. To do this, turn on the water supply, open the taps and observe the operation of the drain. All connections must be tight, and water must quickly flow into the drain, leaving the tank on its own. If everything works, then before you start using the device, all that remains is to seal the joint between the bathtub and the wall. This is done as follows:
When installing steel models, you can process the bottom or walls with outside with polyurethane foam or pasted over with vibration insulation to reduce the resonating ability and thermal conductivity of the material.
Video instruction
1. The bath is an important part of any apartment. Every apartment resident spends a significant portion of their room in the bathroom.
However, sooner or later, we are faced with the need to replace the bathroom with a new one. And here that knowledge will come to the rescue,
which we have outlined below. First of all, you need to dismantle the old bathtub. As a rule, this is associated with certain difficulties, since
the old coupling bolts are most likely rusty and it is simply impossible to turn them out with a wrench - the wrench erases the bolt head stops, but the bolt
and does not scroll - in this case it will have to be cut off with a grinder. Also, most likely we will encounter difficulties associated with dismantling the drain and
overflow grate. Previously they were made of brass - soft material, during dismantling, such a grill may simply break, and then you will have to
carry out dismantling using non-standard methods. One of them is this: using a hacksaw blade, we cut out the lattice segments, positioning the blade perpendicularly
inner ring.
Cut out the drain hole using a hacksaw or grinder 
Break the drain grate using a hammer and chisel
We make cuts from the inside and bend the segments inside the funnel. We do the same with the counterpart of the ring under the bathtub.
Now you can easily pull out the drain grate through the hole in the bathroom. We dismantle the overflow grille in the same way if it cannot be removed in the usual way.
When the grates are removed, we dismantle the drain and overflow pipes. If a drain pipe embedded in the sewer with cement, carefully break the cement, then remove the pipe.
Hole sewer pipe, it is necessary to close it with a stopper (this can be a piece of wood adjusted to the diameter of the pipe, or just a gag made from pieces of rags).
Remove the siphon and overflow from under the bathtub 
Free the walls of the bathtub
Now is the time to remove the bathtub and free up the room. To do this, break the tiles that secure the edges of the bathtub and remove it from the base.
The bathtub is carried out vertically through the doorway. When the bathroom space is freed up, we begin installing a new bathtub.
2. In this article we consider DIY bathroom installation, without electrical components. If you plan to use baths with electrical components,
We strongly recommend using the services of professionals.
Let's look at the main types of bathtubs in order to choose the most suitable one. Traditionally, bathtubs are made of cast iron, steel and acrylic.
Free standing cast iron clawfoot bathtub
Cast iron bath
It keeps warm for a long time, it is not expensive, however, such a bath is very heavy. A cast iron bathtub weighs on average about 100 kg, which makes it very
the non-trivial task of its transportation and installation.
Acrylic bathtub - made from modern material- acrylic. The bathtub is made of acrylic plastic and is reinforced to avoid sagging. She is relatively
lightweight, but more expensive than cast iron.
Steel bath- just as easy, and at the same time - cheap. Its main drawback is that the water in it cools quickly.
Circular bathtub in the bathroom interior
In addition, there are bathtubs made of many other materials - stone, copper and even wood.
Also, bathtubs differ from each other in shape. The most common is the bath rectangular shape. However, there are also round side baths -
which bring additional aesthetics to the bathroom, however, when choosing this type of bathroom, you need to remember that the water in it easily overflows,
therefore, there should be at least 5-10 cm between the bathtub and the walls in order to provide easy access for collecting spilled water.
Round bathtub installed in a frame in the interior of the bathroom
In addition, it is advisable to use special curtains, the edges of which descend into the bathtub on each side.
Before installing the bathtub, you should ensure that the surface on which the bathtub is mounted is perfectly flat. If necessary, apply a screed, or
special leveling solution. It makes sense to combine a bathtub replacement with a bathroom renovation. In this case, the floor is laid with tiles.
After this, it is necessary to allow the surface to dry thoroughly (at least 2-3 days) and only after that proceed to further work.
The next step is to lay the tiles on the walls. We recommend laying tiles completely over the entire wall, including in those places that will be hidden by the bathroom.
It is quite understandable to want to save money by skipping places under the bathtub that are not visible to the eye, but in this case, the next time you install a bathtub, you will have to
also change the tiles.
When installations steel bath
, first the bathtub is installed, and then the tiles are laid.
In the bathroom, the bathtub is brought vertically; the threshold of the rooms is first laid with something soft. The bath is located 70-80 cm.
Installation of a drain-overflow system for a bathtub
from the installation site, drain hole towards the taps, and then the drainage system is installed.
Often, the drain works on the principle of a drain-overflow system. Installation begins with the installation of a drain funnel. The funnel is installed in the drain hole
baths (before this, we recommend inner side apply sealant to the funnel rings), with reverse side put on the rubber sealing ring
and a pressure (usually plastic or metal) ring.
Then the system is secured with a clamping screw - while making sure that the o-ring does not warp.
Then we screw a tee to the external thread of the funnel, so that the side outlet faces the nearest wall. When installing a tee, do not
We forget to seal it with O-rings and clamping rings.
Video: DIY bathroom installation
We install the overflow grid in a similar way, connecting it to the overflow tube, if necessary, reduce its length, cut off the upper part of the overflow
tubes. When the drainage system is ready, we install the supports (legs) of the bathtub and mount the bathtub on them. The installation technology is as follows:
the first support is installed, the bathtub is carefully laid on it, then the opposite edge of the bathtub is raised, and the second supports are placed under it.
Then we connect the drainage system to the sewer system. After this, we move the bathtub to the wall, and using a level and adjusting screws on the legs of the bathtub,
We achieve a horizontal position of the bath. Then we check the tightness of the system.
This is done in two stages: first, pour water into the bathtub and drain it; if there is no leak, fill the bathtub with water and close the plug. If in this
If there is no leak, then the bathtub is installed correctly, you can begin installing the mixer.
Installing a faucet in the bathroom
Comfortable living in the house is out of the question. This room is the “face” of every person. Its appearance speaks of the wealth of the family, the style of the owner and his neatness. Everyone knows that the central place in the bathroom is the bathtub, which is directly used for hygiene procedures.
It is important not only to choose correctly, but also to install the container. Therefore, you need to know how to fix the bathtub correctly by holding renovation work in the room. Of course, you can use the services of specialists, but it is quite possible to install the tank yourself.
So, let's look at how modern plumbing fixtures made of different materials.
Current bath installation methods
The method of installing a bathtub directly depends on its location. So how do you secure a bathtub?
- Fastening to walls and floors. One of the most common installation methods for angular plumbing installations. Often also used when installing a bowl in a prepared niche.
- Fastening to the floor. In this case, the container is installed at a distance from the walls.
Depending on the type of fasteners used, there are the following methods for mounting the container:
- Adjustable or not adjustable legs. Perfect option for securing cast iron or steel bathtubs, which are often supplied with such supports.
- On brickwork. Universal solution for metal baths, which guarantees the stability and reliability of the structure as a whole.
- On adjustable supports or metal structures. This option is often used for installing acrylic plumbing fixtures.
Let's take a closer look at the most popular ways to properly secure a bathtub.
Features of installing a steel bath
A steel bathtub is an acceptable option for many apartments and houses. Plumbing stores offer a wide range of choices of these products. The choice of capacity parameters directly depends on the area and the wishes of the owners. The standard configuration includes bathtubs measuring 0.75 m by 1.7 m.
When choosing such plumbing equipment, remember that it is characterized by heavy weight. It significantly complicates installation and places special demands on the stability and strength of fasteners.
The product instructions indicate that such a container must be installed on special legs. Having these supports makes installation much easier. It is necessary to properly secure the supports, which often come with plumbing fixtures. The bath is ready for installation.
But often such containers are installed on brickwork. How to fix the bathtub in this case?
Features of installing a steel bathtub on brickwork
The masonry provides good rigidity compared to using standard legs.
- So, the arrangement of the bathroom begins with unpacking the container itself. We compare its parameters with the dimensions of the seat.
- Remember, in order to install the container correctly, quickly and efficiently, it is necessary that the distance between the wall and the sides of the bowl be at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to the installation of corner baths.
- We install the bowl on previously prepared spacer bars. They should be located close to the wrong side of the sides.
- We connect the siphon correctly.
- Using a spirit level (level), we check the location of the bowl relative to the horizon. If necessary, level the container by changing the angle of the spacers.
- The brickwork must initially be laid under the part of the bathtub where the legs of the structure were to be located.
- The last row The masonry must be brought close to the wall of the bathtub. For this purpose, pieces of brick are used.
- We leave the masonry to dry for several days. Then we check the struts and the stability of the structure.
- Along the perimeter of the brick bathtub we lay a screen right under the rim.
Many believe that this is the most reliable and relatively inexpensive way bathroom fixtures.
Do you need a screen?
You can also cover the brick screen with tiles to match the walls.
Remember that the screen will not only do decorative function. It also provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. When constructing a side, try to ensure that the masonry is adjacent to its lower part along the perimeter. This will prevent the bowl from skewing if suddenly the lower supports are not strong enough.
This method of installing a bathroom is only relevant for metal. Therefore, it should not be used for acrylic bowl.
Attaching the bathtub to the wall and floor
Installation metal structure for brickwork is quite simple. But how to fix the bathtub to the wall and to the floor?
The metal bath must be installed on a standard supporting structure.
It may happen that the studs support legs slightly smaller than previously estimated size. In other words, if, for example, it was planned to install a container with a side height of 60 cm, and a bathtub with inverted legs reaches a height of 57 cm.
This problem can be easily solved by cutting required thickness pieces of tiles. Their glued elements at the location of the legs will allow you to securely fasten the bathtub.
Afterwards you need to measure the location of the lower edge of the side and install metallic profile according to the markings made earlier.
We seal the fasteners along the wall with silicone. To do this, apply silicone sealant in the upper part of the profile, retreating 1-2 mm.
We move it to the wall so that its supports are in a certain place. If you glued additional pieces of tile, you need to install the bathtub no sooner than after 24 hours. After all, the silicone must completely polymerize.
We sorted out the metal bathtub. How to fix an acrylic bathtub, which is especially popular today?
Installing an acrylic corner bathtub on supports
Acrylic bathtubs are particularly popular today. The main advantage is low weight. But how to fix an acrylic bathtub? To the wall or on standard supports?
Installation of a bathtub made of this material on supports occurs in the following sequence:
- The product is removed from the packaging.
- It is necessary to lay a blanket or carpet on the floor, which will preserve the glossy surface from scratches. The bowl is turned over onto the covered floor.
- We measure the sides of the bathtub and compare them with the dimensions of the seat. Corner bath must always be installed correctly. Moreover, the two walls that form seat, must converge with each other at right angles. Otherwise, there will be a gap between the walls and the bathroom, which is quite difficult to cover with something.
- We prepare all the components for making the bathtub frame.
- We lay out all the components separately. This will make it easier to reach them. So how do you secure the legs of a bathtub?
- Carefully insert plugs into the ends of the legs. We snap them well.
- We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (which have threads inside them).
- Screw 2 locknuts onto the studs.
- We assemble the profile from which the frame itself will be made in the future.
- The profile has a hole in the insert. The adjusting leg pin is screwed into it.
- The first locknut must be screwed tightly to the profile, the second - to the leg. This way the structure will be not only stable, but also reliable.
- We install the profiles on the bowl. We fasten them with self-tapping screws, which are included in the kit.
- When assembling the second profile, you need to prepare long and short pins.
- The smaller stud must be screwed in with locknuts using the same principle as the legs.
- But the pancake pin needs to be screwed on the side of the profile, which should be located on the side of the protrusion of the side of the bowl itself.
- We install the plastic legs on both sides on a longer screwed-in pin. Thus, one leg of the bowl should rest on the floor, and the other should rest on the side of the acrylic container.
- After installing the legs on both sides, tighten the nuts. Please note that after installing the support legs on the profile, their plugs must be placed at the same level. Using a ruler, you can check the location of the extreme points of the supporting legs. To do this, it is enough to measure the distance from the surface of the plug to the surface of the profile.
- We can assume that the acrylic bathtub is ready. Assembled structure can be turned over and installed in a prepared place.
- Using a level, check the position of the bowl. If necessary, align the legs by loosening the nuts on the supports.
Reinforced fastening of an acrylic bathtub
The above methods for securing a bathtub are considered the most popular. But the acrylic bowl can be secured in another way. After all, long-term operation of the bathtub on supports shows that this installation method has one drawback. Under the weight of a person, the bowl crunches in the area between the reinforced profiles. What to do if the bathtub is shaking? How to secure it correctly?
This minor drawback is not critical, but it is advisable to eliminate it. To do this, you need to prepare standard foam concrete blocks measuring 250 mm by 625 mm.
When you decide to install the bathtub on blocks, pay attention to the placement of the profile mounting frame. It must be spaced at a distance of 65 cm.
Foam concrete blocks must be installed under the bowl on mounting foam. After the foam has completely hardened, the bath will become motionless and stop crunching.
This method of installing a bathtub requires a minimum financial costs, because you only need to purchase a bottle of foam and a few bricks.
Features of manufacturing the reinforced fastener design
So, installation work consists of performing sequential actions:
- Raise the bathtub to its maximum height using the adjusting supports.
- We blow strips along the perimeter of the future brick laying polyurethane foam.
- We apply foam to the brick and lay it on the floor.
- We lower the bowl onto the foam using adjustable supports, which we secure with nuts.
- After 24 hours you can use the plumbing.
For better adhesion of the foam to the floor or brick, it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with water from a spray bottle.
Remember that when you secure an object, you significantly complicate the repair and installation work as a whole. What else do you need to pay attention to before fixing the bathtub to its feet?
Stack of water
Correct device drainage of water is necessary for the normal functionality of plumbing in the bathroom. It depends not only on the parameters of the siphon, as many non-professionals believe. The main condition of the stack must be met: all siphon tubes and the drain must be located above the level of the sewer pipe.
A large height difference will allow water to drain faster. Thanks to fast current the liquid will be able to automatically clean the pipeline. As a result, you will have to do repairs and preventive inspections less often.
Remember: before attaching the bowl, you must raise the adjustable legs as high as possible. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the height does not affect the comfort of using the bathroom. The distance between the floor and the sides of the bathroom should be optimal.
Choosing a hose in a siphon
Experts recommend replacing flexible corrugated hoses in the siphon with smooth ones plastic pipes. Of course, it’s easier to work with them, because you don’t need to observe dimensions, they can be quickly bent in any position. But dirt accumulates in the folds of the corrugation, which is difficult to remove by simple washing. If the siphon is frequently disassembled, it may suffer rubber seals and even threaded connections. As a result, serious damage occurs, which subsequently requires replacement of the entire device.
And if the bathtub is attached to the floor, then all repair work is extremely difficult. Experts recommend purchasing siphons in which the function of a sump is performed by an ordinary bend of the tube. This way the smell will not enter the room, and blockages will be much less common. And if they occur, there is no need to disassemble the structure; it is enough to use a regular plunger.
Bath quality
Experienced plumbers recommend giving preference to imported bathtub manufacturers. Unfortunately, modern domestic bowls cannot be characterized high quality. This applies not only to the coating, but also to the geometry of the product.
In domestic products, the corners of the sides are rarely straight. And an error of a few degrees over a long length can turn into several millimeters. Therefore, often in this case between flat wall and the side of the bowl forms a wedge-shaped gap. Hide silicone seal It is not recommended, because the error will be too visible. In this case, ceramic or plastic special skirting boards are used, which must be mounted on fixed surfaces. The corners peel off at the slightest vibration. It is not recommended to re-glue them.
Conclusion
Arranging a bathroom is an important task that every owner who has a little experience in construction industry. Now you know how to fix a bathtub to the wall without difficulty.