IN small apartment The most rational piece of furniture is a wardrobe. They are divided into two types: free-standing cabinets and built-in cabinets. Before starting to resolve the issue, how to make a wardrobe with your own hands, you need to choose the option that suits you specifically. Let's take a closer look at them. Read also.

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Selecting a cabinet option

Freestanding cabinet

Advantage: suitable for different rooms, can be rearranged from place to place, disassembled and moved to another room. Unpretentious to the quality of floors, walls, ceilings.

Flaw: higher consumption materials and higher cost compared to a built-in wardrobe.

Built-in wardrobe

Advantage: the ability to design for any niche (in the wall, under the stairs, in the attic), lower consumption of materials (some of the cabinet structures are replaced by the floor, walls, ceiling), lower cost.

Flaw: attachment to one place.

At first glance, making a cabinet is difficult, or even impossible, with your own hands. Fortunately this is not the case. The main thing is to carefully and scrupulously calculate the parameters; the work itself is quite capable home handyman.

Cabinet design

Let's consider the manufacture of a free-standing cabinet wardrobe. Having studied and mastered its structure, you can easily design a built-in wardrobe and also assemble it with your own hands.

If you have difficulty drawing sketches and calculating dimensions, it makes sense to invite someone who has skills in this. Having explained to him the vision of the future cabinet, you will jointly carry out the design. Well, if you have drawing skills, you can master this stage yourself.

Take paper, pencil and take the following steps:

1. We determine the dimensions of the cabinet based on its location, sketch out its general appearance;

2. We determine the dimensions of the bottom, base and lid of the cabinet;

3. We break it down inner space cabinet into horizontal and vertical sections;

4. We determine in which sections the boxes will be installed;

5. We determine the dimensions of the doors of the closing sections, determine (if necessary) the placement of the side open sections and mezzanines;

6. We determine the ends that we will “edge” (cover the edges of the sheets with a special tape, see below);

7. Choosing accessories.

We indicate the required dimensions on the drawing.

The process is not easy and can be simplified by using one of free programs for designing furniture, for example SweetHome 3D.

Tools needed to make your own cabinet

Before you make a cabinet with your own hands, you need to acquire necessary tool. We will need:

1. Level.
2. Pencil.
3. Square.
4. Awl.
5. Drill and special drill for Euroscrews.
6. A screwdriver and bits for it (the screwdriver can also be used as a drill).
7. Hacksaw for metal.
8. Iron.
9. A sharp, durable knife (a joint is convenient).

Materials for making a cabinet

A good-quality cabinet would be made from natural wood, but you can make it at home in a larger area wooden elements difficult. Therefore, for assembly we use laminated chipboard, and for the back wall laminated fiberboard. Trade now offers wide choose colors and shades of these materials.

Making cabinet parts with your own hands

A practical solution to the question of how to make a cabinet with your own hands begins with cutting chipboard sheets into their component elements. When drawing parts, when cutting, you should take into account the width of the saw cut (usually 3-3.5 mm), otherwise the parts will turn out smaller than necessary.

It is advisable to order cutting (actually, cutting the sheet) in a workshop (sometimes a similar service is provided in stores). Chipboard will be cut to your dimensions, quickly and accurately, without unevenness or “burrs.” Achieve similar quality at home using hand tools very difficult.

Edging cabinet parts

Having cut the sheet into parts, we proceed to edging. "Edge", this is the usual PVC tape thickness 0.4 - 2 mm. We use a thin one to finish the hidden (lower and rear) ribs, cover the visible ribs with a two-millimeter edge, selecting the desired color and pattern.

For example:

1. Inner shelf: 2mm edge on front rib. The remaining three ribs are adjacent to the inner walls.

2. Cabinet Lid: All ribs are external and require a 2mm edge finish, with the exception of the rear invisible rib. For it we use an edge of 0.4 mm.

3. Drawer fronts: all edges are external and visible. We use a 2 mm edge.

At home, it is convenient to glue edges by ironing them with an old massive iron, setting the appropriate temperature, depending on the material of the edge (here you will need to experiment a little).

Cut off the remaining edges sharp knife. We clean the cut with fine sandpaper (no. 200 and above).

Cabinet fittings

The quantity and type of fittings depends on the number of compartments and drawers, and you will need a wide variety of it, namely:

- handles and guides for drawers;
— door handles;
- hangers;
— “Euroscrews” (confirmed screws) with plugs.

The preparatory work is completed, now let's look at how to make a cabinet with your own hands from prepared parts.

DIY cabinet assembly

1. Mark the holes for the mounting screws. The work is responsible and requires special precision. Confirmats are often screwed into the end of the part, so the hole should be located strictly in the middle of its thickness.

2. Installing the bottom and walls of the cabinet:

2.1. First, we put the bottom and walls of the cabinet in place, checking that the overall dimensions are correct.

2.2. We drill holes for attaching the base (it consists of two strips) and the central partition.

2.3. We fasten the base and central partition. We attach the side walls to the bottom with confirmations. We protect them with a special waterproof profile. This way we will protect parts resting on the floor from moisture.

2.4. We fasten the upper shelves, which gives the frame spatial rigidity. Installing a rear wall will further enhance it.

2.5. We mount the lid (“roof”) of the cabinet. Even when making the cabinet as high as possible, we leave a gap of at least 7 cm between the lid and the ceiling in order to tighten the fastening confirmations.

A screwdriver will not help when attaching the cover. We attach the fasteners by hand, or using pliers, and then tighten them using a curved hex wrench, or better yet, a “ratchet” wrench with an appropriate attachment.

2.6. We install side shelves. We fasten them with four confirmations, 2 on each side of the shelf. If the side shelf is flush with the bottom or inner shelf of the cabinet, it will not be possible to secure it with confirmations. In this case, “dowels” are used - small wooden cylinders. They are inserted into pre-drilled recesses on the wall, and then pushed into the same holes drilled in the shelf.

3. Door assembly. Wardrobe doors are a separate and important mechanism. Their installation is at least half appearance, and you won’t be able to make the cabinet beautiful with your own hands without doing this part of the work as accurately and accurately as possible.

We begin assembly from the back door. Let's provide a glass insert in the middle. The top and bottom of the door will be made of chipboard.

First, we check once again whether the cabinet is accurately leveled, secure the top one by installing two supports for it and a lower running profile (Photo 1).

We are preparing a set of fittings for assembling the rear door (Photo 2):

— rear door running roller without trunnions;
— rear door running roller with trunnions;
— corner of the rear door – 2 pcs.
— screw 4x25 – 8 pcs.;
— screw 4x16 – 10 pcs.;
— screw – 6 pcs.;
- seal.

Before installing the glass (mirror), we evenly install sections of the seal along the length of the dividing profile (Photo. 3).

When installing chipboard inserts, no seal is used. The protrusion of the inserts in relation to the profile should be the same on both sides. When assembling the door, place the inserts face down on the foam to avoid scratching.

We install the glass in the dividing horizontal profiles. When installing two glasses, the seal is installed on both sides of the dividing profile (Photo. 3).

We assemble a combined door using dividing profiles. Before installing the main vertical profile We also install seals at the junctions with the glass.

We install the main profile on both sides of the door. The profile is attached to the chipboard with 4x25 screws, and to connection profile screws, using a screwdriver (Photo 4, 5).

One profile must be mounted in a horizontal position. The second one can be mounted when the door is positioned vertically (Photo 5, 6). At the same time we draw Special attention to the correct location of the front surface of the profile.

We install the handle profile on one side and the other, orienting the bend towards front side(Photo. 7). We check the tightness of the profile joints. If necessary, you need to beat it with a mallet and align the joints along the length.

We install the restrictive corner of the rear door from below on both sides and the running roller (without trunnions) of the rear door at the top from the handle-profile side (Photo 8).

We hang the rear door on the running profile.

Let's move on to the front door. We are preparing a set of accessories for it:
— front door running roller;
— corner of the front door – 2 pcs.
— screw 4x25 – 8 pcs.;
— screw 4x16 – 10 pcs.;
— screw – 6 pcs.;
- seal.

Continuing to make the cabinet with our own hands, let's move on to assembling the front door. It is similar to the rear one.

We install the handle profile on both sides, orienting the bend to the front side. We check the tightness of the profile joints. If necessary, we align the joint along the length by tapping it with a mallet. We install the corner of the front door from below on both sides. We install the front door running roller at the top on both sides (Photo 8).

We install the door in the grooves of the profiles and adjust it to the level. We fix the clamps on both sides (Photo 9). Finally, we install baskets and hangers on the outer and side walls. We check the operation of the door. The opening and closing process should be easy, without braking or unnecessary sounds.

This is where our story ends. Take your time, think through each operation in advance, carry out the work carefully and you will succeed! If you think in advance that you will not be able to make a cabinet with your own hands, it is better to purchase ready-made wardrobe, for example, here http://www.azbykamebeli.ru/catalogue/0000039/ there are good and inexpensive models.

As usual, we are waiting for your

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How to make a cabinet in a niche with your own hands in 5 steps and without helpers

Looking at the built-in furniture, most owners think that self-assembly of such beauty is impossible. However, when the home master receives sensible instructions, he changes his mind. Let us step by step figure out how to make a cabinet in a niche with your own hands, and in order to quickly understand the technology, we will break the whole process into 5 steps.

Planning is the key to success

The beauty of built-in furniture is that it doesn’t matter what kind of structure you are going to install. Will the cabinet occupy the niche completely, partially, or planned? corner layout, in any case, the sequence of actions is similar.

Material selection– this is the first thing you need to decide. If the floor is concrete, then there is not much difference, you can take what you like, but for wooden floors you need to choose lightweight panels. Plus, in Lately such a characteristic as environmental cleanliness came to the fore;
Preparing the niche itself– this point is not relevant for every owner, but you still need to know some subtleties;
Cabinet Layout – beautiful schemes the dimensions in the network are sufficient, but you need to rely on the practical benefits and feasibility of arranging a particular section;

Doors– as practice shows, in wardrobes sliding doors are the most important node, moreover, they take at least half of the budget;
Material cutting and installation– if all the previous points were completed efficiently, then assembling the cabinet will take a maximum of 2–3 days.

WITH practical point In terms of view, it is easiest to build furniture into a niche, because you already have a ready-made box, all that remains is to fill it and mount the facade.

Step No. 1: subtleties of material selection

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Tree. Natural wood is not suitable for a built-in wardrobe. Different humidity inside and outside will lead to the board starting to crack, in addition, the structure turns out to be massive and heavy. Assembly of such furniture is available only to professionals and the price is fantastic. But it is better to assemble the supporting frame from wooden blocks. They are easier to work with than metal profiles.
	Drywall. It is possible to assemble plasterboard shelves in a niche. But gypsum boards themselves are fragile, plus they still need to be puttied and painted. I'm not even talking about how much time and effort it will take to assemble and cover the frame. Drywall is good for partitions and small shelves; this material is not suitable for a serious cabinet.
	laminated chipboard. Laminated chipboard has been used for the manufacture of budget furniture for a long time. But about 10–15 years ago, information appeared that formaldehyde was used in the production of chipboard, and therefore the furniture was harmful. True, manufacturers claim that the laminated finish blocks formaldehyde fumes and judging by the fact that furniture continues to be produced, this is true.
	Fibreboard, MDF and HDF. All these are wood-fiber boards, only fiberboard comes with low solid density, MDF with medium density and HDF with high density. The prices for these slabs follow the same sequence. Since the cabinet is built-in, the density does not play a big role for us, the main thing is that the thickness of the slab is at least 16 mm. In general, this direction is considered the best for a sliding wardrobe.
	Plywood. It is excellent for making furniture; it is strong, reliable and durable, but thick laminated plywood is an order of magnitude more expensive than MDF or chipboard, so it is rarely used.
	Furniture board. This natural wood. The panels are glued together from planks of inexpensive wood, after which they are lined with veneer or thin plywood. The material suits us, the boards are cheaper than solid wood, but more expensive than MDF
	Tempered glass. At the moment, the most popular material for arranging facades. The only disadvantage of tempered glass is its high price. Keep in mind that it is not advisable to take ordinary glass from the nearest glass cutting machine; firstly, it can crack due to vibration, and secondly, if such glass breaks, it can seriously injure you.

Step #2: preparing a niche

If the niche is covered with wallpaper and it holds tightly, then you can leave everything as is and continue working. It is advisable to remove old wallpaper, spray the wall with water and scrape off the wallpaper with a spatula; there are removers for wallpaper that sticks too tightly.

Cover the niche with new wallpaper. It is best to take non-woven or fiberglass wallpaper for painting; they are durable and will last in the closet for as long as you like. This method is good if you have scraps of such wallpaper left from the last renovation; it is not profitable to buy a large, solid roll;
If you don’t want to tinker with wallpaper, then cover a clean wall with PVA glue diluted with water, and when the soil is dry, paint it acrylic enamel. Instead of acrylic, you can take something cheaper, for example, oil paint, but it will stink and take a long time to dry.

Step No. 3: layout, diagrams and dimensions

A competent layout has simple laws, based on which you can easily distribute sections and zones in your closet:

Small and frequently used items are placed at eye level, that is, underwear, shirts, blouses, socks, stockings, etc.;
Valuable small items and things that require careful storage are distributed in drawers;
Bed linen is sent to the upper shelves or to a separate section, but in no case to the lower one;
Sections of outerwear and shirts with suits are located separately;
The bottom is reserved for shoes and household items, such as a vacuum cleaner, ironing board, etc.

There are also laws to determine the dimensions of sections:

Height open shelves for things it starts from 300 mm, it is advisable to make the width at least 500 mm;
According to furniture standards, the height of the outerwear section is 1600 mm, but this is not a dogma, it can be made smaller;
The minimum height of drawers is 100 mm, the width is the same as that of the shelves.

Step No. 4: facade door block

Here we need to decide on the width of the door leaves and the type of sliding mechanism.

Calculation of sashes

The recommended maximum for the width of the door leaf is 700 mm, it is not advisable to do more, less is possible. The thing is that the larger the area of the sash, the heavier it is, and accordingly, the higher the load on the supporting rail. Plus, the wide doors cover a large area and the cabinet is inconvenient to use.

We have at least 2 sashes, each one runs on its own guides, but it is impossible to make them exactly end-to-end according to the size of the opening; the normal overlap is 30–50 mm. Here you also need to take into account that the leaf consists of a door leaf and metal profiles framing this leaf, the thickness different models profiles are 20–50 mm.

The calculation scheme is approximately as follows:

Measure the frontal distance between the extreme points;
Divide this distance by the number of sashes;
Now add 2–2.5 cm to the resulting width of each sash for the overlap;
Next, if you subtract the thickness of the framing door profiles and sealing tape from the total width of the leaf, you will get the net width of the leaf;
When calculating the height of the sash, we focus on the passport data of the mechanism. There, in order to get the net height of the leaf, you need to subtract from the total height of the niche, the dimensions of the roller mechanism at the top and bottom, plus subtract the thickness of the guides and the door profile.

Types of rail mechanisms

The most popular mechanisms now are those with a lower support roller. In other words, a pair of rollers are installed at the bottom of the door leaf, which ride along grooves in the guide profile. There are also grooves and rollers on top, located on the upper edge of the leaf, moving along them, holding the doors in a vertical position.

This model works well for concrete base, on wooden floors It is not advisable to install this mechanism. Sooner or later, under the weight of the cabinet, the floor will sag and problems with the doors will begin, plus debris is constantly collecting in the lower grooves.

Designs with top suspension of the sashes have 2 varieties. A top rail with two hooks under the doors is considered cheaper, but less reliable. This rail is rigidly attached to the ceiling and shutters with rollers are hung on it.

Installation of fittings is not difficult and the sashes can be hung quickly. The problem is that if you press this door a little, it will fly off the guides. In general, these arrangements are not suitable for families with small children.

The monorail is recognized as the most reliable system in this niche. Here, each block has 2 paired rollers and this entire system moves inside a metal profile pipe. The monorail can withstand even the weight of heavy wooden doors, but there are also disadvantages to it.

Complex installation - first the rollers are inserted into the profile, then the profile is attached to the ceiling and after that the doors are hung from the roller blocks. It is very problematic to do this alone and without experience;
Monorail prices are 2–3 times higher than competitors;
The guide profile needs to be covered with something;
The roller blocks must be adjusted after installation.

Step No. 5: cutting material and assembly

From experience, homemade cabinets It is better to make a coupe either from laminated chipboard, or from laminated or veneered MDF, they have the best price-quality ratio.

A few words about cutting

I don’t recommend cutting slabs at home, even if you have a good tool. The fact is that you will not be able to laminate the ends of the house efficiently (tested). In furniture companies, the cutting and finishing service is not expensive.

By the way, transportation of large laminated boards It’s a troublesome task, so it’s better to order both the material and cutting from a furniture workshop. They buy goods in bulk, so the price difference will be acceptable.

Assembling the structure

It is better to start assembly from the inside of the cabinet. You have a diagram, the slabs are cut to size, then you buy furniture corners and use self-tapping screws or confirmants to screw the entire structure together.

A “cage” of shelves is attached to the back and side walls of the niche at several points with dowel-nails; there is nowhere for it to go in the niche, so you shouldn’t mount it too rigidly. First installed vertical racks, then shelves, drawers, etc. are gradually hung on them from bottom to top. Can be assembled in blocks.

After assembling the cabinet filling, you can move on to the most important procedure - installing the lower and upper guides. They are set strictly horizontally, according to the level, even the slightest distortion is not allowed here, otherwise the doors will move on their own. Don't rely on adjusting the rollers, it won't work.

If the floors are very crooked and you do not want to level them with a screed, then you can install wooden beam thickness of 50 mm and attach the support guide rail to it. Set the level with pads. You can also adjust from above using wedges. Then all this “beauty” will have to be covered with decorative overlays.

Now all that remains is to assemble the door leaves, insert them into the guides and adjust the rollers to perfection. Some systems use door stops. There is no point in listing all the types of stoppers, so when purchasing accessories, simply clarify this issue with the seller.

Conclusion

The technology described above is universal, in in this case we talked about furniture built into a niche, but you can also install free-standing or corner cupboard coupe. There are several more editing options in the video in this article. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

February 26, 2018

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Making a wardrobe with your own hands is quite possible for a DIYer with his own hands. After all, such an idea is an excellent alternative purchase finished product. Ordering a factory furniture product, as a rule, means an overpayment of about 70% of the cost of the product. However, there is a way out - you can make a wardrobe yourself. By the way, this is not at all difficult, the main thing is to correctly draw up an action plan and strictly follow it. Let's take a closer look at this process.

Today, the wardrobe can be placed on a par with the most popular types furniture. Due to sliding doors, it allows you to significantly save space, which is an important factor for modern apartments. Its “filling” can be almost anything, based on the wishes of the owners, and the floor, ceiling and walls of the room can serve as the bottom, top and even walls of the cabinet, which allows you to save consumables.

Before designing a product, it is important to take into account its advantages and nuances.

Let's consider the advantages of the structure:

Space saving. Sliding doors do not require extra space, and the product itself is installed as close to the wall as possible.
Capacity. The large volume allows you to store many necessary things.
Versatility. The design can be adapted to any interior design of the rooms.
Internal filling. Making a wardrobe with your own hands means providing it with the elements you need.
Zoning. Often, sliding wardrobes are used to divide studio apartments into separate zones.
Wide design possibilities. There are many types of products that are suitable for placement in your home.

Deciding on the type of wardrobe

The convenience of placement in the room and comfort of use are influenced by the design of the wardrobe. The following common types exist:

Built-in. The back, sides, ceiling and floor in the niche are the walls of the structure. The cabinet can be adapted to custom sizes, space configuration. The disadvantage is the impossibility of transfer.

Free-standing, cabinet-mounted. It looks like a standard wardrobe with separate walls, but has sliding doors. Disadvantage: large size.

Angular. It can be built-in or case-mounted. It is convenient because it can be placed not only on the wall, but also around the configurations of the room, for example, arches, corners.

Diagonal-angular. Contains a module for closing a swing door. It combines wheels with rails and swivel mechanism, serving for convenient operation of the structure.

Choosing material

Its durability depends on the correct selection of raw materials from which you plan to make a wardrobe for your bedroom with your own hands. Mahogany is considered the most durable and reliable. No less quality material there will be oak and beech. Karelian birch will be more expensive, but also beautiful wood, providing long term product services.

Recently, fiberboard, MDF, laminated chipboard, as well as plywood are often used to make furniture. Structures made from them differ in reliability characteristics, but they are cheaper compared to solid wood. As for aesthetic qualities, laminated pressed boards and MDF are today manufactured in various design variations. Internal components are also made from MDF, chipboard, and plywood.

Drywall is used less frequently as a raw material for the production of cabinets, as it provides less resistant materials. external influences options. It will be difficult to move such a structure, since the material crumbles when unwinding again.

Furniture panels contain a special wood structure and are often found defective, which affects their strength. This kind of material may not be very advantageous in comparison with more durable and reliable MDF panels, laminated chipboard. Shields are suitable for creating small cabinets in niches. For large-scale products, the use of strong solid wood is recommended. The facade can be decorated with glass, tinted with film and other materials.

Design features

The most important step is planning the wardrobe. At independent calculations When placing parts, you need to be extremely careful, taking into account all structural elements. The length and height of the product are measured taking into account the dimensions of the room and the volume of things that will be stored in it.

Structural components are determined by the type of cabinet selected. But for any variety, the characteristics of the height and depth of the shelves and rods are important. We must not forget about proper calculation of the position of sliding systems. Be careful that the doors do not hit each other or walls while closing. Today there are restrictions for this.

The best option would be to create a sketch with the exact location of the components and their dimensions, method of fastening, and a description of decorative nuances.

How to design a wardrobe - ready-made drawings and diagrams

To create a high-quality product, you must first work out a detailed drawing of the sliding wardrobe. To do this, you need to independently take measurements of the room where installation is planned.

Often people are faced with problems of uneven floors and walls, which leads to troubles in drawing up a construction plan. Therefore, during measurements, it is important to reflect the room configuration errors in sketches. If the difference in heights and latitudes is too great, it is necessary to initially level the surface.

Below are examples of finished drawings of a sliding wardrobe. These diagrams will help you navigate the calculations necessary for the full creation of the product.

Measurements can be taken with a tape measure or laser level. Pay attention to all the points and elements indicated in the project. Try to take measurements as accurately as possible, write down the dimensions in the diagram.

How to make a wardrobe for the bedroom with your own hands

After choosing the material from which the structure is made, you need to determine a list of parts. Description and dimensions are indicated on a separate sheet. It will be used to cut elements and select fittings.

Sawing and fittings

Advantage self-execution cutting is to control the consumption of materials. You need to cut sheets of wood, MDF, chipboard, plywood, taking into account the description of the drawings of the sliding wardrobe with your own hands. That's why preliminary preparation and product design is one of the key stages of work. You need to carry out carving activities using high-quality equipment so as not to get chips on the saw cuts. The edges must be sealed with specialized PVC film. It sticks to the surface by heating the adhesive strip.

High-quality fittings perform vital importance in the normal functioning of the cabinet. Depends on the parameters of the elements correct adjustment sliding doors, reliable fastening of shelves and rods. The main fasteners do not differ from the components used in the production of cabinet furniture.

Among them are:

door hinges, if swing mechanisms are provided;
rods;
guides for drawers;
trouser rack, shoe rack, pantograph, retractable hangers;
small accessories: handles, fasteners for mirrors.

The list of these parts is determined by the selected product configuration.

Fastening the frame

The principle of fastening the frame depends on the type of cabinet. Typically, supports are made of metal profiles that are mounted to the walls. To properly secure the parts, you need a diagram of the wardrobe. Profiles cut according to a pre-drawn drawing are screwed to the walls using dowels, positioned along even guides (vertically and horizontally). They form the frame and main support for the elements.

Shelf guides need to be attached to the side elements of the frame. If a partition made of plasterboard and other not too durable materials, they need to be strengthened. To do this, you can place a durable beam of suitable dimensions in horizontal profiles.

The cabinet wardrobe does not require a profile and is assembled according to the principle ordinary furniture, excluding the door mechanism.

Door preparation

Preparing the doors is one of the most critical aspects of the assembly. Correct installation assumes maximum accuracy. Ceiling and floor guides are mounted using self-tapping screws. It is important that they are located in the same vertical plane, since a deviation of even millimeters will create difficulties in operating the structure. It is important to take into account the characteristics of the floor and the factor of rail contamination.

Common door suspension systems:

Double rail with bottom support. The most popular type. The lower rollers act as support rollers, and the upper ones, in turn, prevent the sash from falling out. With this system, the doors practically do not jam or touch each other when opening. But high sensitivity to floor subsidence is provided. First, the upper roller is inserted into the groove, then the door is raised, and the lower part is wound up.
Double rail with top support. The upper rail is supporting, which makes the operation of the sashes quiet, since there is no subsidence. The disadvantages are that it requires perfect flat ceiling for mounting the suspension, when pressed firmly, the doors may fall inward. When installing, the sash must be tilted.
Monorail. The carriage contains 2 pairs of rollers, and the suspension of the sashes is located in separate guides. They are more reliable. But installation of such a system requires time and skills, since first carriages are installed in the rail, then it is attached to the ceiling, then it is installed door leaf. After hanging the sashes, you need to adjust the stroke.

The main feature of the wardrobe is the sliding doors. They are the facade of furniture, therefore they carry not only structural, but also decorative function. This complex design where metal or aluminum rollers and rails are required.

According to the method of installing the system, there are:

suspended - the mechanism is located on top;
supporting - fasteners are installed from below.

The edge of the door that is not in contact with the rail moves along the guide. It is better to prefer metal sliding elements, as they are stronger than plastic rails.

Fastening the shelves

The distance between the shelves of the product should not be less than 30 cm. This is necessary for ease of use of the cabinet.
The depth of the compartment for hangers should not be less than 55 cm.
The number, size and location of drawers should be noted on the diagram.
Dimensions taken into account additional elements: retractable nets, hangers for umbrellas, shoes, ties, hats, baskets, pantograph, etc.

Shelves can be installed using specialized fasteners that are used to construct conventional cabinet furniture. On modern market There are more reliable fastening mechanisms for storage systems, consisting of flippers and rods.

Painting and installation of doors

After preparation internal filling Doors are being painted and installed. The canvas can be painted using special acrylic dyes, stains, and varnish. You must first coat the wood with a protective antimicrobial agent.

Principles for installing doors with bottom and top supports:

Bearing elements fixed at the two upper points of the blade are installed in the upper groove of the guide.
The compartment door is slightly raised, after which the rollers are inserted into the lower rail.

It is important to consider the features suspension systems, since in some cases additional tilting of the sash is required. Monorail fasteners differ in the installation method described above.

There are various locking designs on the market that prevent excessive movement of sliding doors. They are installed on the rail mechanism. After this work, decorative handles, moldings and other elements are installed.

Lighting

Before working on the frame part, it is necessary to take into account the desired lighting principle. Based on the design drawing, a diagram for connecting the lighting to the wiring is worked out. For a built-in cabinet is constructed plasterboard construction on the ceiling, based on a profile support.

The light can be installed in the upper part of the cabinet, having previously cut the required diameter for the lamps. For security internal wiring must be placed in corrugated tubes.

Assembling a sliding wardrobe with your own hands at home is quite simple if you make the drawings correctly and follow the calculations.

When the main installation activities for the product are completed, light is installed and finishing furniture. Fluorescent and LED lamps are used to illuminate products.

Such lamps do not heat up, creating safe conditions operation of the product. When choosing to install recessed lighting inside a built-in cabinet, you need to take care of it before installing the frame. You can illuminate furniture from the outside, which is achieved by installing lamps in the furniture's cornices.

Decor

Do-it-yourself wardrobe decoration is done using various materials. In this case, it is important to first prepare the product, that is, degrease, remove any remaining varnish and paint using sandpaper. Many people limit themselves to hanging mirrors and painting furniture to match the color of wood. But others strive to create creative furniture models, in which many tools help them.

The following methods are the most popular today.

Decoupage

A primer is applied to the sanded and cleaned surface and acrylic lacquer, then it is sanded and again coated with varnish and primer, after which the pattern is attached and varnished. You can additionally draw in the details of the image to create a painting effect. The result is fixed with several layers of acrylic varnish.

Drawing

The painting is applied manually or using a stencil. First you need to sand the surface and cover the area with a primer. The finished image is varnished.

Film

One of the most popular processing materials. It is suitable for decoration various surfaces, including furniture. There are many varieties of film, including integral pattern, individual elements(flowers, birds, curls, geometry). It is glued to a cleaned surface.

Mosaic

Acrylic and glass material, allowing you to create fantasy patterns or paintings. The canvas is first cleaned, and markings are made for even gluing of the elements. Fastening is done using liquid nails.

Engraving and matting of mirrors

Performed if you have the equipment and skills to work with glass and sandblasting.

Making a wardrobe is a labor-intensive, but at the same time interesting process. To create a high-quality product, it is important to take a responsible approach to the calculations of dimensions, content, and lighting principles of furniture. It is recommended to record planning notes in a separate notebook so that important points were at hand. The drawings and tips provided in the material will help you pay attention to the key nuances of design, as well as inspire you to come up with your own interesting solutions.

If you have any questions, ask them in the comments below. Our specialists will certainly answer them.

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How to make a cabinet with your own hands: drawings, description, step-by-step instructions

How to save free space indoors? To do this you need to install a built-in wardrobe. I suggest simple instructions assemblies wardrobe coupe at home. By following the suggested recommendations, you will make furniture that will not be inferior in build quality to what professional installers make.

How to assemble a built-in wardrobe at home

Making a standard wardrobe yourself from scratch will be difficult and expensive. It is much easier and more efficient to develop a furniture drawing and order production structural elements and from ready-made kit assemble a cabinet with your own hands.

The lifespan of a cabinet is largely determined by the quality of the fittings used, so we don’t save when choosing suspension mechanisms for doors.

Step-by-step instruction

Step-by-step instructions consist of the following steps:

Room measurements.
Project development and ordering a set of cabinet furniture.
Assembling the body frame.
Installation of filling.
Installation of door fittings and sashes.
Installation decorative elements and lighting if provided for by the design.

Let's consider the listed stages in more detail.

Deciding on the type

Illustrations	Types of sliding wardrobes by type of location
	Built-in. Furniture of this type is installed in a niche or between two walls.
	Wall mounted. This is a more common type of furniture that is assembled and installed along the wall, while the sides of the cabinet are not hidden and are visible.

Illustrations	Cabinet Configuration
	Straight. The leading edge of such furniture is a straight line.
	Angular. This category includes double cabinets, where the sections are located at right angles to each other.
	Radial. In such cabinets, the front edge is curved forward or, on the contrary, concave.

Illustrations	Structural device
	Frame. The cabinet design is based on a supporting frame, consisting of an upper and lower part, as well as two sidewalls. The rear wall is attached to the inside of the frame - a reinforcing element made of fiberboard slabs.
	Frameless. This category of furniture consists of door fittings, doors and filling. There is no supporting frame or back wall in such structures.

Materials

Illustrations	Materials for making your own wardrobe
	Furniture panels. Wooden shield- this is a board made of lamellas. From furniture board facades for expensive sets are manufactured. Use wood for self-assembly I do not recommend furniture, since for these purposes it is easier and cheaper to use particle boards or plywood.
	MDF. This variety particle board used primarily for production furniture facades. MDF boards because of high density They can be easily milled, and therefore doors with ornaments of complex configurations are made from this material.
	laminated chipboard. Laminated particle board is a universal, inexpensive material that is used for the manufacture of furniture frames, sliding doors and filling.
	Fiberboard. Due to its small thickness, this material has low bending rigidity and is therefore used only for padding on the back wall of the cabinet.
	Drywall. Used for assembling built-in furniture wall plasterboard, body elements and filling are made from it.

Room measurements and calculations

Before ordering a set of cabinet furniture, we take measurements of the room near the wall where the wardrobe will be assembled and installed.

When taking measurements for built-in frameless furniture, we measure the perimeter of the niche or the distance between opposite walls and height from floor to ceiling. That is, we need to find out the dimensions of the opening into which the guide profiles for fastening the doors will be installed.

Advice. If there are sockets or switches in the niche, this is not a problem, since there is no back wall in the frameless cabinet

For wall-mounted frame cabinets, measure the wall along which the furniture will be assembled and installed. It is important that there is a gap of at least 5 cm to the side walls, and 10 cm to the ceiling.

Walls in old apartments may be uneven and therefore, for greater accuracy, measurements are taken at several points at once. The resulting numbers are compared and the lowest values are selected for the drawing.

Horizontal measurements are taken at the floor, at the ceiling and in the middle of the room. Also, the distance from the floor to the ceiling is measured at two or three different points.

Drawings with description

After the measurements have been taken, you need to select a suitable drawing and complete the detailing of the furniture.

After a drawing has been selected and materials have been selected, we order cutting of cabinet furniture elements for assembly. I recommend ordering the cutting of structural elements not from handicraft specialists, but from furniture factories.

Installation work

The cabinet is assembled on a pre-prepared floor. To avoid damaging the floor covering, lay down pieces of cardboard.

The work begins with the installation of the body, then the filling is installed and the sashes are hung. To provide high quality assembly, we use correctly selected fasteners.

Fastening the components

Illustrations	Elements for fastening components
	Confirmation. For most connections we use confirmats 50 mm long. We use confirmata with a length of 70 mm in especially loaded fastenings. The tool for drilling a hole for confirmation is a 4 mm drill with a cutter.
	Dowels. Depending on the workload of the connection, we use dowels with a diameter of 6, 8 and 10 mm. We use dowels for adhesive hidden connections or for connections reinforced with confirmations.
	Minifix. We use this hidden fastening for vertical connection when assembling a furniture frame. When making a horizontal connection, we supplement the minifixes with dowels.
	Rafix. This is a type of minifixes that we use for hidden fastening of shelves.
	Self-tapping screws. We use 30 mm self-tapping screws as an alternative to confirmats when making unloaded connections. We use 20 mm self-tapping screws when installing the reinforcing element - the rear wall. A 16 mm self-tapping screw is a typical fastener for most operations, including installation of guides and installation of other fittings.
	Corners. We use plastic corners for lightly loaded connections, for example when installing cabinet filling.
	Shelf supports. These pins hold the shelf with one edge and enter the body wall with the other edge.

Reinforcement elements

After the body, consisting of the upper, lower and side parts, is assembled, it needs to be given sufficient strength. To do this, we attach a fiberboard wall to the back of the cabinet.

If possible, we install fiberboard in a single sheet. If this is not possible, we install wall fragments so that they compensate for the mechanical loads that fall on the furniture body. We fasten the rear wall with 20 mm self-tapping screws in increments of 25-30 cm.

Masking the fastener heads

Stickers and plugs are used to hide the holes. Both options are produced in different colors, so you can choose a similar color and make the fasteners less noticeable.

The advantage of stickers is absolutely flat surface, while the plugs protrude a couple of millimeters. In addition, stickers are cheaper and come in more colors.

Geometry check

During the assembly of the furniture case and before attaching the back wall to it, we check the geometry of the structure. This is done using a construction square, which is installed in the corners. All angles must be right. Similarly, we check the location of partitions and shelves in relation to the body.

Installation of doors with guides

Illustrations	Step by step instructions
	Installation of the upper profile. The profile is installed on dowels, which are screwed into ceiling. The installation step of fastening elements is no more than 30 cm.
	Installation of the lower profile. The lower profile is installed in the same plane with the upper guides so that the subsequently installed door does not have a distortion.
	Door installation. The door is driven into the upper profile by the upper rollers, raised and driven into the lower profile by the lower rollers.
	Settings. According to design sliding system, the rollers are being adjusted. The doors should take a vertical position, which can be checked with a spirit level.

Illustrations	Description
	The use of stained glass technology for decoration. It's not cheap, but it's aesthetically attractive and original solution. For safe operation, stained glass is not made up of individual fragments, but as a whole, with a pattern of glued stripes.
	Sandblasting patterns on mirrors. It is aesthetically attractive and at the same time functional option. The applied pattern decorates the mirror, but does not interfere with its intended use.
	Vinyl stickers. In order not to spend money on mirrored cabinet design, you can use inexpensive doors covered with vinyl film. The advantage of this solution is that you can choose any pattern and color.
	Bamboo facades. The use of bamboo in cabinet design is one of the many trends in eco-design that is fashionable today.

DIY wardrobe drawings. Make a wardrobe to your taste