The whole multitude of tourism lovers are divided into two societies that do not understand each other. Some recognize only a comfortable holiday with learning environment in the conditions of many star hotels where all inclusive. For such, there are sites like this http://www.ally.com.ua/tours/hot/. Others prefer to visit all interesting places relying on their own efforts and often their own equipment to increase the comfort of travel. You can find many examples when the requirements for comfort are minimal. A good example is the painting by V. Perov “Hunters at a Rest”.
It is quite sufficient to sit on the grass and eat on a small table. But it’s hard to deny that a small camp folding tourist table didn’t hurt this company. Because in addition to good weather and clean place It is advisable to have it to increase the comfort of your stay. Therefore, build with your own hands a neat small camping folding table ik, especially if you know how to hold a hammer, drill or screwdriver in your hands, it’s actually easy.
Of course to receive excellent result it is necessary to consider the necessary folding system for the table and the materials used. In this case, you can implement it in the form of a suitcase, ensuring the packaging of its legs, or, conversely, ensuring that the tabletop is rolled up in the form of a roll.
I'll bring you similar examples implementation of such designs of folding tourist tables.
Ready-made collapsible tourist table
Demonstration of the possibility of collapsing the tabletop after removing the legs on two crossbars secured with screws.
Disassembled tourist table.
The folding travel table is lightweight, compact and easy to assemble.
A good example of a table is shown in the video.
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A table with your own hands can easily be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is quite simple and understandable.
For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for a kitchen that is extremely small in size. Purchasing custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and construct your own “work” yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.
In addition, there is often a desire to express one’s Creative skills in the conditions of a dacha, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully arrange a veranda or gazebo in a suburban area. If you have suitable materials and tools at hand, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use finished project and then get to work.
To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.
Tools for work
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.
You can use regular, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always used. This list usually includes:
- A plane used to level wood and cut parts to the required size.
- Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
- Saws of various sizes and modifications, which are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
- Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
- Screwdriver Set.
- Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
- Sandpaper for sanding.
Many of the tools can be replaced with more modern and convenient devices:
- An electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above were previously used for.
Rating of jigsaws - A sanding machine will help make surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious manual processing procedure sandpaper.
- Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill shaped grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need it and have some experience, then you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.
- will significantly speed up the work, since you won’t have to spend several minutes tightening each screw. In addition, during certain operations it is possible to install one of the milling cutters or ordinary drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).
- The construction level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.
To prevent the finished furniture from being “crooked”, the assembly is controlled by level An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage
Make a similar one country table- everyone can do it Necessary materials
For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680×850 mm, you will not need too much a large number of wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:
- Beam, cross-section - 750×100×50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
- Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
- Wood glue.
- Board size:
- 1680×100×25 mm – 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
- 850×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (transverse frame parts);
- 1580×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (cladding boards for the side elements of the frame);
- 950×100×25 mm – 17 pcs. (boards for tabletops).
All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If you plan to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with stain, and to reveal the textured pattern, the top is carefully sanded with a sanding machine. Fine-grit sandpaper will remove the stained, raised parts of the wood grain, making them lighter than the depressions.
Installation of a garden table
When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to assembly.
Frame or “box” of the table - The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680x100x25 mm and two end boards 850x100x25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On end boards The location of the internal and external boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will be made using the tie-in method.
The elements can be connected in different ways:
Connection with a choice of “quarters” and using metal corners - using a steel angle - this is the simplest and most reliable way;
- the insertion method is more the hard way, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;
Several types of joints based on the tongue-and-groove principle - “groove-tenon”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen with no experience;
- connection with dowels is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be connected.
- All connections are usually made using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
- The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to carry out control using a construction angle and measuring and comparing the lengths of the diagonals.
- If parts are secured with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.
- When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are attached to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. The facing boards are also installed with glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be recessed into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
- The next stage is the transverse cladding of the tabletop with boards 950×100×25 mm. The place where they are attached must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The protrusion of the tabletop above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.
- Next, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the table “box,” and the outer boards are also attached to the end sides. In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the boards to a depth of 2–3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards when installation work, through holes must be drilled.
- After this, legs made of timber with a cross-section of 750×100×50 mm are attached to the edges of the longitudinal boards; they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.
The next step is installing the legs - The legs can be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the connection point. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from inside the frame using a wrench.
- The final stage of manufacturing is sealing the heads of the screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. Use this homemade putty to fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue has dried, the entire tabletop, and especially the areas covered with “plugs” of glue, must be sanded well.
- After this, the table can be varnished or painted water based. After waiting for the decorative or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a country gazebo, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.
If desired, it would be easy to make a bench to go along with the table.
Small folding table for the kitchen
This small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.
- Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
- The presence of a spacious double-sided bedside table will allow you to store various small items and small toys in it.
- The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child can do homework while sitting at it.
- In addition, there is room on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
- If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if you lay a soft cloth on its surface.
Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.
Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article on our portal.
Necessary materials and parts for a folding table
To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:
Diagram of the table with the numbers of assembly parts marked (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) | Part number on the drawing | the name of detail | Quantity, pcs. | Part size, mm | Material of manufacture, thickness, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Folding part of the table top. | 1 | 600×600 | |
| 2 | Fixed table top of the cabinet. | 1 | 600×475 | Multilayer plywood 25 mm thick |
| 3 | 2 | 530×30 | ||
| 4 | 2 | 120×30 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick | |
| 5 | The upper end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×30 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 6 | Groove element for leg movement on a folding table top. | 2 | 530×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 7 | A groove element for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the cabinet. | 2 | 120×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 8 | The lower end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 9 | Side walls of the table cabinet. | 2 | 720×520 | MDF 19 mm |
| 10 | Horizontal parts of the cabinet forming shelves. | 3 | 520×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 11 | Bottom vertical part internal partition cabinets. | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 12 | The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the cabinet. | 1 | 312×184 | MDF 19 mm |
| 13 | The middle horizontal part of the cabinet. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 14 | Cabinet door. | 1 | 477×346 | MDF 19 mm |
| 15 | Cabinet shelf. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 16 | Cabinet drawer front panel. | 1 | 346×209 | MDF 19 mm |
| 17 | The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front panel). | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 18 | Drawer side panels. | 2 | 341×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 19 | Back panel of the drawer. | 1 | 272×120 | MDF 19 mm |
| 20 | Drawer bottom panel. | 1 | 341×272 | MDF 19 mm |
| Handles for drawers and cabinet doors. | 2 | Ø 30 mm | Wood | |
| Upper leg element. | 1 | 80×80×18 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick | |
| Mobile table leg. | 1 | Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702 | Wood | |
| Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop. | 2 | Ø 50 mm | Metal | |
| Furniture door hinges. | 2 | The size depends on the shape. | Metal | |
| Bottom end panels covering the gap under the cabinet. | 2 | 20×300×5 | Plywood 5 mm |
The drawings show a drawing of a table that can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.
Main dimensions of the table (illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) 
Individual table components – drawer and a guide channel for moving the leg (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) To manufacture all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electric tools that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.
Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.
Installation of a folding table-cabinet
You should start making a table with its most important and largest part - the tabletop. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and “mobile”, that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table can easily serve as a regular compact cabinet.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to make 25 mm thick plywood using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600×600 and 600×475 mm. |
 | Next, markings are made on the larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make one yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope. |
 | Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw, installing the appropriate compass attachment on it. |
 | Next, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, or, if desired, even or rounded. |
 | The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will join the second part of the tabletop flat. Then its edges are processed in the same way. |
 | The next step is to place the two processed parts of the tabletop on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Markings are made for installing furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the tabletop. Furniture hinges may have different shapes, so they should be placed in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special shaped grooves are made in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes using self-tapping screws. |
 | After connecting the two parts of the tabletop with hinges, in the middle of the panels, markings are made on their lower side to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides should be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed with a milling cutter: 530×30 mm in size - 2 pieces, 530×20 mm - 2 pieces, 120×30 mm - 2 pieces, 122×30 mm - 1 piece, 120× 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122×20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides, are cut off from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their angles do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, the parts are glued with wood glue to the marked area of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop. First, the longest slats measuring 530×20 mm are fixed with glue and then screwed with self-tapping screws; then a piece of 122×20 mm covers the channel. On top of the long and short fixed slats, second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width; they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places where the screws are screwed in so that the top ones do not collide with those that secure the bottom slats. Four parts are fastened to the rectangular part of the tabletop in the same way. All elements must be processed until smooth and perfectly evenly fastened to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving. |
 | The leg is usually made using lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from a master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the required height until smooth. Then, using a dowel and glue, a square plywood guide plate measuring 80x80x18 mm is attached to the upper end of the leg using a dowel and glue. |
 | Next, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made. |
 | The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of the plywood. After this, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of the cabinet. |
 | The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed smoothly with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy. |
 | If you plan to cover the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels. |
 | The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make shaped grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and secured. The holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a milling cutter, but in this case the milling cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be placed at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is necessary to carry out careful markings. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet on which the door will be attached. Then the walls and doors are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for the screws. |
 | In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, step back 50 mm from the edge of the panel and find a convenient height position, mark a point through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle. |
 | All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. Paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but will also protect the material from negative influence specific kitchen humid environment. |
 | Next, you can proceed to assembling the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can carry out the assembly on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be done using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the screw heads will have to be masked with various compounds after assembly. The assembly process proceeds as follows: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels is leveled on it and using a construction corner, and its location is marked with a pencil. -The location of the fastening parts is immediately marked on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then at the marked points of the bottom and end sides Holes are drilled in the side panels for installing dowels. - After this, before gluing the parts together, locations for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, shelf support brackets are mounted in the marked places, for which holes are also drilled. - Next, dowels coated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, and the side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - Fixed shelves-lintels are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls. |
 | Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried well. To make the cabinet stand more rigidly, it is laid on its side and pressed with clamps while it dries. |
 | While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for installing fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Next, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom. |
 | The sidewalls are screwed together using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be recessed into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can be furniture corners, which are screwed from the inside to the sides with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners. |
 | When assembling the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners construction corner and changing the diagonals, otherwise a skew may occur. |
 | If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the drawer, then first, the location of their attachment is determined on the sides of the drawers and on the inner walls of the cabinet. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, draw a line along which the guides will be fixed. |
 | Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. In addition to self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use glue to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are tightened with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue has dried in the center façade panel a hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed. |
 | Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - connecting the cabinet and the countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then secure it with screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the tabletop needs to be positioned correctly. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - by 120 mm. |
 | Having secured the tabletop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table door onto the screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports. |
 | When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, you can choose other colors to decorate it, which will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room. |
 | When open, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its “light” design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this table option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms. |
If there is a need to save money, or simply have a great desire to express yourself in carpentry, then do not delay self-made. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.
For those who are confident in their abilities, we offer another interesting option for a round table, which can easily serve both at home and on the site.
Video: example of assembling a round table
And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, would also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement:
Video: lightweight kitchen table with collapsible design
In the warm season, both children and adults want to stay longer fresh air. A picnic in nature is not just sports and outdoor games, swimming in ponds and other pleasures. You also need a snack. Today we will discuss how to make a folding picnic table with your own hands. The problem is that there are not so many recreation areas well equipped with all the necessary furniture. Therefore, if you don’t want to spend money on purchasing a new table, you’ll have to get down to business.
Types of structures
There are 2 types of camping tables:
- Suitcase table. It looks like a folding chessboard. The legs are inside the suitcase. If you need to expand the table, the legs are attached to the tabletop.
- Table with folding legs. The design is extremely simple: when folded, the legs are tucked under the tabletop. If necessary, they move apart, and the structure is completely ready.
Important! Each option has strengths and weak sides. For example, it is easier to make folding furniture for a picnic with your own hands, and operating such products is also much easier. At the same time, the “suitcase” is more compact and more convenient for transportation. In addition, there is space for camping utensils, skewers and other accessories necessary for a picnic.
Materials
What material to choose for making your own structure? In principle, 3 options are possible:
- Metal.
- Wood.
- Plastic.
Home craftsmen say that it is easiest to work with wood. If you don’t have skills in metalwork, it’s better not to touch metal. At the same time, you must not forget to treat the wood with a special varnish so that it does not become deformed, lose its attractive appearance or warp under sun rays or in the rain.
Plastic can be used to make both legs and table top. But not everyone knows how to work with plastic. But plastic product literally forever: it is not afraid of either ultraviolet radiation or corrosion.
Folding picnic table
Let's consider the easiest picnic table to make with your own hands - a wooden one.
Set of tools
These tools are in the arsenal of any home craftsman, even the least experienced:
- Electric jigsaw. If you don't have one, you can use a wood saw or circular saw.
- An electric drill for drilling holes into which screws are screwed.
- Hammer.
- Phillips screwdriver.
- Building level.
- For marking - pencil, square, ruler.
Important! Listed cutting tools— a jigsaw or a circular saw are tools whose work is associated with increased danger. Therefore, compliance with safety rules is mandatory.
Materials
For the tabletop you will need wooden boards with a thickness of 2-4 cm.
Important! You can use not boards, but a sheet of MDF or chipboard, about a centimeter thick.
You will also need:
- Self-tapping screws.
- Furniture bolts.
- Under the bolts there are wing nuts.
- 2 door handles for carrying the product.
- Hooks.
First, cut out a tabletop from plywood, chipboard or boards the right size. The further procedure is as follows.
Making a table frame:
- Lay the boards intended for the frame on the tabletop. The distance from the frame to the edge of the tabletop is 20-30 mm.
- Using a jigsaw, cut the boards to the required size, first checking that the markings correspond to the drawing.
- Outline the contours of the frame with a pencil and make holes for screwing in the screws.
Intermediate bars:
Cut the support bars on which the legs of the table will rest when unfolded, drill 4 holes in them for screws.
Important! To avoid the legs colliding when unfolding, place wooden supports between the frame and the stop bars.
Assembling the tabletop and frame:
- Gather all the elements together, don’t forget to secure them wooden substrates and stops.
- Connect the tabletop and frame into one structure using screws.
Table legs
Transfer the corresponding drawing to the boards, then cut out the legs. At the point of attachment to the frame, the legs are made rounded, and at the bottom they are cut at an angle of 15-20 degrees. Drill holes for the bolts.
Assembly of the structure
- Connect the first 2 legs using a crossbar and secure to the frame with a bolt and wing nut.
- Do the same with the second pair of legs.
- Check the table in action to see if the legs cling to each other when unfolding. Otherwise, sand them at the point of friction.
The table is ready! Now all that remains is to secure the carrying handle and attach hooks for towels or barbecue utensils.
Suitcase table
Compared to a folding structure, slightly more materials will be required:
- For the tabletop - chipboard sheet or MDF (can be replaced with regular boards).
- Wooden beam. It will be useful for assembling the box and table legs.
- Loops.
- Latches.
- Handle (suitcase or door).
- Self-tapping screws.
- Bolts with wing nuts.
The procedure for making furniture is as follows:
- Cut out 2 halves of the tabletop from MDF or chipboard. It will be foldable.
- Saw off sections from the timber to fit the dimensions of the frame, in accordance with the drawing. Attach them to the tabletop halves on all sides. Two halves - two frames.
- Fasten the 2 halves together using loops.
- Cut 4 equal pieces from the timber that will serve as table legs. Make holes for the bolts in them. At the same time, make an indent so that the legs and frame are freely connected to each other.
- Connect the legs to the frame using bolts and nuts.
- Attach a handle to the frame to carry the table.
- Equip the finished product with two latches so that the “suitcase” does not open when carried.
Your DIY folding picnic table is ready!
Important! Before starting work, draw up a drawing in different projections, calculate all dimensions, make an accurate calculation of the consumption of materials. This way you will be able to avoid mistakes.
Do-it-yourself wooden folding table, drawings, diagrams, detailed description of the product, the peculiarity of which is the rim at the bottom of the tabletop, where the assembled legs are hidden.
Let's look at the table design in section, which shows the assembly units of the product:
1.
Table cover (table top).
2.
Side (supporting frame).
3.
Legs.
Table drawing and its main dimensions shown in the figure.
TABLE COVER
The tabletop is made of laminated wooden planks connected to each other on a strip. A “U” shaped aluminum furniture profile size 2 x 20 x 20 (mm).
Reference:
When joining wooden parts furniture board on the rail, the following dimensions should be adhered to:
A– width of a wooden furniture panel
S– thickness of a wooden furniture panel
So– thickness of the shield after machining
Sp– allowance for machining
Sh– edge thickness
Si– thickness of the groove and rack
L– rail width
Li– groove depth
A = 12…150(mm)
So = S – 2 Sp = A…⅓ A = 12…60(mm)
Sp = 2…3(mm)
Sh = Si = ⅓ So
L = So
Li = ½ L + 1..2mm
BEARING FRAME
Comprises:
1.
Transverse tsar.
2.
Longitudinal king.
3.
Confirmat 7 x 50 (mm).
The inner surface of the transverse drawer along its entire length is planed at an angle of 10°. WITH inside longitudinal drawer, two recesses are milled for fastening metal corners. We connect the longitudinal and transverse drawers to each other with euroscrews (confirmats).
LEGS
Consist of:
1.
Leg.
2.
Crossbars.
The crossbars are made of wooden cuttings Ø 16 (mm), which are inserted with a slight interference fit into the holes of the legs, first applied to the contact surface of the parts. thin layer glue.
DIY wooden folding table or assembly procedure according to drawings:
1.
Let's prepare the necessary material.
2.
Let's make assembly parts.
3.
Let's assemble the assembly units.
4.
We will carry out finishing processing of the assembly units and apply a decorative paint coating.
5.
Wood screws with countersunk head 3.5 x 16 (mm) we attach four metal corners 26 x 26 x 30 (mm) to the supporting frame.
6.
We attach the legs to the supporting frame, with a slight tension, using furniture bolts with a semicircular head and a square headrest 10 x 50...60 (mm) according to the “bolt – washer – nut” pattern.
The figure shows the design of the supporting frame with folded legs.
The figure shows the design of the supporting frame with legs unfolded.
7. We screw the tabletop to the metal corners using countersunk wood screws 3.5 x 12 (mm).
The wooden folding table is assembled. And yet, in this design it is possible to provide leg clamps. Send us your thoughts, all ideas will be published on the pages of our website in compliance with copyright.
How to make folding legs for a table.
Folding tables, or tables with folding legs
usually used in special cases. Main
the purpose of using such tables is saving
places. The table can be made folding, in the form
table "book" or with folding legs.
If the folded “book” table remains indoors,
then a table with folding legs is usually put away in the pantry.
Therefore, the appearance and design of such tables can be noticeably
differ.
You may be wondering why the table in the photo has such a strange shape.
countertops? The fact is that this table has a rather narrow specialization.
It serves as an additional insert between two round tables, see
article round table on one leg.
When all three tables are moved together
the resulting tabletop surface is 950 mm wide. and a length of almost 3000 mm. .
When making folding legs, the shape of the tabletop does not play a special role,
therefore, you can make legs for regular table
with a rectangular tabletop.
The total length of the tabletop is 2000 mm. , width 950 mm. . If we exclude acute
"tails" the length of the table will be 1050 mm.
DIY wooden folding table drawings
Table height 760 mm.
Of course, you can make a tabletop of any size you need.
When calculating the legs you need to look at two positions, this is the total height of the table
and tabletop overhangs. Here the table is wide, so the overhangs are 100 mm long. .
And yet, the distance between the legs cannot be less than the length of the legs, otherwise
the legs just won't fit into place.
How to make a small table with folding legs, Look
article coffee table.
Table legs.
The legs are made in the form of frames assembled on spikes, the material is birch.
Frames made of bars 60 mm wide. and 30 mm thick. . It turns out
classic assembly, upper horizontal jumper - drawer,
the bottom one is a prong.
To attach the legs, I installed two transverse ones on the bottom of the tabletop.
bar.
The width of the bars should not be less than the width of the legs, i.e. 30 mm. .
The thickness of one bar is 20 mm. , another 50 mm. . The difference in thickness is 30 mm.
necessary so that the folded legs do not interfere with each other.
For this table, one pair of legs is 750 mm wide.
and height 720 mm. .
The other leg is 750 mm wide. and height 690 mm. . This is based on thickness
table tops 20 mm. , let me remind you that the total height of the table is 760 mm. .
The legs are attached to the cross bars with piano hinges. Loops are needed
drown so that the legs, when unfolded, rest against the entire edge
into the edges of the bars. If the legs hang on hinges, then the table will turn out to be
very unstable.
In order for the table to be stable, the legs must be unfastened.
Shown here
the simplest option. Birch board 100 mm wide. with cuts on
the thickness of the legs and the depth of the cut are 50 mm. . The legs are made the same way
cuts in the middle of the top edge with a depth of 10 mm. .
A table assembled in this way stands rigidly under lateral loads,
but when longitudinal, it walks slightly due to the flexibility of the legs.
For the little one
table, one transverse leg may be enough for a large
It is better to strengthen the table fastening.
As a matter of fact, when installing this table, it is clamped at the ends with two
quite massive round tables, and therefore it’s easy for him to walk
nowhere. Actually, I wanted to make a more complex and rigid structure.
Not only tables and chairs can be folding, see how to do it
flower shelves from a stepladder.
In another version, another transverse frame is glued. This frame is also
installed on hinges from the bottom of the tabletop and when unfolding the table
falls out between the legs. In this case, the thickness of the transverse bars on which
legs are attached, it is necessary to increase it so that the central frame
fit under the frames of the legs. In this case, the legs must be installed
retainers.
The simplest fastener is a self-tapping screw or confirmat which
twists from the outside, through the leg into the end of the central frame.
Another option, instead of one large longitudinal central frame, make
two drawers that fall out, here you also need to think about fixing the drawer
to the legs.
Instead of all this, you can install two slopes, from below from the middle
tabletops are again attached to the legs, the slopes are also attached
to the tabletop on hinges.
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How to make chipboards with chipboards with your own hands
At the beginning we had a “small” factory computer desk, which was adopted in Prague.
But over time, we realize that this table in our small room takes up too much space (more than a meter from the wall). I had to cut it into pieces and make a night table for it.
And at this point, for gathering here, there is such a simple little folding table that can be folded on demand, freeing up space in the room. I don't mind bad calendars, I covered them (during a photography session) with a hole in the wall that had a permanent CRT monitor on it.
This is actually the size of our counters for clarity only and these sizes and shapes are strictly not followed.
The sheet was purchased at OBI, I don’t know, but, in my opinion, it was originally 90x60 cm. And after the blade rounded the edges and cut small niche behind the backs of the chairs, the table dimensions are 90x56 cm.
Then, with sandpaper, wrap the stick around the sanded ends of this sheet. After this, the red back is painted, except for the back side, as it will be attached to it.
The table was attached to the wall with a 45x45 mm stick because the wall is very soft (chalk) and not entirely level.
There are four self-locking screws on the wall, approximately 8-10 cm long. The screws are screwed into the base so that the self-tapping screws do not stick. After the iron is pulled to the wall, the steaks are held together by gluing glue. Before having a CRT monitor, this column served as a small window frame that was parked upright in the dedicated heater, mouse and keyboard pockets.
The hanging loop was attached to the counter and then to a stick on the wall.
The counter edge of the counter is supported by two pieces of such chains at the edges.
The length of these segments is selected by hooks on the wall and corners on the table. This means that the table is built strictly horizontally (flat), and then we measure the length of the chains.
Some such 3.5mm thick hooks were wrapped into the wall through the feet.
Why the hooks did not impress me with their appearance, to secure the chain on the table, I decided to use a regular railway angle located under the table.
The first was drilled with a 2-3 meter drill with a series of holes in the table, then with the same drill, a diagonal bridge was selected between the holes. Upon return, the holes with the exposed file were trimmed slightly. Thus, we received two longitudinal holes for the corners in the dsp. Before fixing the corners under the table, the turnips rounded the file (the one that is always in the front) at the corners.
Then remove one link from the chain and place it on the corner.
The massage does not touch the back of the head (if you are sitting with your back to it).
The tin here is curved, there is no twisted roll. Why is the stand held vertically and at the same time at a certain distance from the wall, which is parallel to the wall. It works great and is quite reliable.
After purchasing this LCD screen (by the way, there is a photo with the old monitor in aperture), the table stopped to be folded because the new monitor was gigantic and did not hang in the wall.
Thus, this new Bank has always settled on this table. They also had to cut a small wall to make the monitor wall move a little longer than it was installed.
If you decide to draw the same or similar folding table, think about the expected loading in advance.
For example, if you want to jump or sit on it, then it is better to take the chain right away, so it is advisable that the links on it are sealed.
DIY transformer table
The same applies to the rest of the structure, hooks, corners, loops and table, which can be cut thicker and stronger.
Overall the table is very attractive and doesn't bother with legs because it has no legs.
If the so-called window threshold (bar) runs a little larger, you can switch it in front of this LCD screen as well. Also at the bottom of the table (bottom) you can adhere or anchor an image or poster, preferably following the contours of the table (so to speak, for harmony). After lifting the table, you don't have to admire the clean and boring surface of the chipboard. Thus, like the button, it is possible that two birds with one stone, in the composite state, the image is displayed, and in the disassembled state the grass of the table is straight for its immediate purpose.
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We make a camp table with our own hands - and off to nature
When someone starts talking about the “approaching” of the tourist or fishing season, it only makes us smile.
Avid tourists and fishermen do not recognize any seasons - any weather is good. The main desire. You can sit with a fishing rod, even over a hole in the ice, or on the green shore of a lake, laying out snacks and strong drinks nearby - not on the ground, of course, and not on the ice. A table is definitely needed, and it’s compact and light. And it’s best to make such a camp table with your own hands.
We suggest making a camp table like this
They are sold in many, but we need:
- True to size, not standard.
- Inexpensive.
- Multipurpose.
The optimal size when unfolded seemed to us to be: length 1000 mm, width 580 mm and height 530 mm.
When folded, it looks like a suitcase with dimensions, respectively: 580x500x80 mm. The pictures show a rough, unprocessed version, but we will now figure out how to make it.
Folded camp table
List of required materials
Everything here is extremely simple, because we are making a camp table, not a formal one.
Therefore, we take plywood 10 mm thick and a birch block with a section of 30x30 mm. We cut two 500x580 mm tabletops from plywood, and cut the block as follows:
- 500 mm – 8 pieces, table legs and overhead parts of the frame for the table top.
- 520 mm – 4 pieces, internal parts of the frame for the table top.
Open table
Since we have the bare minimum of fittings and fasteners, we’ll buy them at the same time so we don’t have to go to the store twice:
- Self-tapping screws 4x25 mm
- Self-tapping screws 4x50 mm.
- The hinges are butterfly, with a span of 60x60 mm.
- Furniture padded hooves, not angular, plastic - 4 pieces.
- Furniture iron handle.
If you have a handle from an old bag that folds, you can use it.
- Suitcase latches. They are not sold in furniture fittings, but in the leather goods fittings department. You can also use locks removed from any used suitcase or old sewing machine. We took it from a compact film projector.
- Furniture screws (or bolts, if you already have them in your household) 8x70 mm – 4 pieces.
- Nuts are wing nuts, respectively M8 – 4 pieces.
Use of fittings and fasteners
To make a camp table with your own hands in draft– you need the bare minimum of tools.
We won’t highlight it as separate items – we’ll take it out of the closet as needed.
Rough assembly of a camp table
We assemble the frames by tightening them with 4x50 mm screws, one for each corner.
In the outer parts of the frame, it is advisable to drill through holes with a diameter of 5 millimeters for them, so as not to split the block. Such fasteners for frames are quite enough - the main load will be taken by the plywood tabletop.
We screw it to the frames with 4x25 mm self-tapping screws, also having previously drilled the plane with a five-point drill and countersunk it.
For screws (bolts) we drill holes with a diameter of 8 mm in the overhead parts of the frame, retreating along inner corner 15x15 mm. They should coincide with similar holes in the legs.
Before installing the butterfly loops, we stuff the legs as seen in the picture.
They should not overlap each other when the tabletop is unfolded - why the extra thickness? We also fasten the hinges with 4x25 mm self-tapping screws, simply putting the table halves together. We drill for the handle - and the table in the rough version is ready, but!
Stuffed legs should not touch each other
Processing a camp table
It’s wonderful that everything has coincided with us and is developing and unfolding so wonderfully.
For now, this process can only be enjoyed at home, in a dry, well-ventilated area. In this form, our table will withstand two, maximum three excursions into nature.
Afterwards you will have to make a new one, which is quite a shame.
The camp table is ready, but it still needs to be processed
Water is present everywhere and is friendly with wood only as long as the tree clings to the ground with its roots.
Swelling, blackening, etc. – it’s disgusting to even place a can of worms on a deformed table. Therefore, we will process it and at the same time strengthen it slightly.
There is no need to grind the parts until they are perfectly smooth; the main thing is to get rid of potential splinters.
But it should be coated and painted with exemplary care - so that it serves for a long time and properly.
For anti-putrefactive and antiseptic treatment, we recommend Pinotex and any of its derivatives.
With it you will not only protect wood and plywood, but also tint the table in the chosen color - there are a lot of options.
The ends of all bars and plywood countertops We recommend soaking with drying oil before final varnishing. To do this, you need to heat the drying oil in a water bath until it reaches maximum fluidity (do not try to do this on open fire or boil it!), and literally rub it with a hard brush into all water-absorbing edges.
After this, dry all the parts thoroughly and proceed to varnishing.
There is no need to “drench” the surface with varnish – it also needs to be rubbed in.
How to make a folding table with your own hands: 2 master classes
It is better to cover two or three times. You have already understood how to make a camping table, all you have to do is realize that this necessary and convenient item will actually go with you on multi-day hikes. And no one will offer him vodka with pepper or tea with raspberries when he gets sick - the table must be dressed in an impenetrable “spacesuit” in advance.
Properly decorated and treated, it will serve you for many years.
And by the way: Not only legs fit inside it. And the wife will never go looking for a stash in something so unglamorous.
With its help, you can change the location of the feast, as well as take the structure into nature. Such a product will not take up much space in the interior, because when you are not using it, the table can be folded and placed behind the door.
Preparing tools
A folding table with your own hands can be made by any home craftsman who has dealt with wood at least once in his life. However, to carry out this work you will need a certain set of tools and materials. You should prepare a screwdriver with a quick-release chuck and a set of bits, a grinding manual typewriter, tape measure, pencil, building level and right angle.
If not grinding machine, then there is no need to purchase it for one time; it is best to use sandpaper, and you can finish making the table, making its surface smooth. Some modern stores offer consumers to rent such equipment.
Preparation of materials
You can make a folding table with your own hands in one evening if you have everything at hand necessary materials. You will need two types of slats, one of them should have a cross-section equal to 30 mm, while the other should have a cross-section of 20 x 40 millimeters. In the first case, you need to prepare four elements, the length of each of which will be 1200 millimeters. The total length of the latter should be 5 meters.
To make a tabletop, you can use laminated veneer lumber, which is made from pine. A reliable and durable option would be a tabletop, the thickness of which varies from 30 to 40 millimeters. A part with the following dimensions is cut from the workpiece: 1300 x 650 millimeters. Each component is well processed with sandpaper and then varnished, which should be done before assembling the structure. The slats that will form the basis of the legs must be rounded at the top and then sanded well.
Additional preparation of elements
The do-it-yourself folding table is made to dimensions that will suit the future owner. But the technology remains the same as described in the article. Thus, in the legs that have not yet been cut to length, it is necessary to drill through holes; they will be needed for the frame strips and axial bolts. The diameter for the fasteners should be 8 millimeters, and the two holes for the strips should have a diameter of 5 millimeters.
In the central part of the strip, you should drill a hole for the axial bolts, stepping back 430 millimeters from above. The frame strips are marked by eye, but symmetry should be maintained.
Nuances of the work
A do-it-yourself folding table is made using a certain technology, it involves the creation of trestles and a table top; these components should not be fastened together. It is necessary to make grooves in the tabletop where the legs will be installed and then wedged. Special sockets must be made in such a way that they are fastened to the tabletop using 4 x 50 mm self-tapping screws.
On next stage You can proceed to assembling the structure. If you decide to do folding table with your own hands, then the trestles should look like a folding bed; such a system will save space in the house or the trunk of your car.
Initially, the legs should not be sawed off from the bottom, but they should be approximately the same. The axle bolts are also not fully tightened to allow the legs to be extended. Lock nuts should be used to secure the tolerance. The master can purchase absolutely any bolts, but their length and diameter must be suitable. For the legs, for example, 8 x 70 millimeter bolts should be used. In the grooves of the table top, limit bolts should be used, the parameters of which are 8 x 120 millimeters.
When built with your own hands, at the next stage you can install the upper ends of the legs in the unfolded state into the grooves of the tabletop. The unfinished structure should be installed on any flat surface to determine how much the legs need to be cut to eliminate the error in length. Be sure to use a building level. When adjusting the length, you should not be particularly zealous; to carry out these manipulations you will need a jigsaw. If the table will be used only outdoors, then the generally accepted height of 750 millimeters should be reduced, since you will have to sit at such a structure literally on the ground.
Making a coffee folding table
Folding coffee table You can also make it yourself, photos of it are presented in the article. The frame is assembled into confirmations, and you need to use a special drill. Marking on the surface of laminated chipboard can be done using stickers, since the pencil will not be visible, its lines glare. A transformation mechanism should be installed in the frame, which has the shape of a rectangle, but before this, springs are installed to help unfold the structure. The mechanism is fixed through the end-to-end method, because the weight of the table will be impressive.
Folding legs should hide all technical fastenings and holes. Markings for fastenings can be done in the same way. Through holes for the bolts should be prepared at the next stage, then a drill is used to mark the place for installing the bolt head. This fastener will allow you to fix the mechanism, but do not be alarmed by the fact that the number of fasteners is quite large. The legs have the shape of a rectangle and must be as strong as possible, since the weight of the entire structure is approximately 45 kilograms. These components should be secured together with ties.
A folding table with your own hands, the drawings of which are presented in the article, can be completed by you in one evening. The next step is to screw the legs to the structure itself; for this, the fasteners are first marked. You can drill locally if you have enough experience. It is recommended to install using metal bushings. For this fastener, holes are drilled in the legs. Legs are installed on four sides, which will allow you to hide the technical holes in the frame.
Assembling the tabletop
The tabletop must be assembled with extreme precision, since the hinged folding is quite strong and ensures smooth sliding of the elements. It will be quite difficult to hold the hinge in the sockets, and the screws cannot cope with this task. Therefore, you can purchase other hinges. A tabletop of this design is divided into two parts, first the small one is installed, then the large one. At this point we can assume that the table is ready for use.
A do-it-yourself folding picnic table, drawings of which are presented in the article, can be made according to custom sizes. You can make the design according to the book-table principle, which has an attractive appearance. To do this, you need to prepare two legs, a drawer frame, a base, 4 horizontal and two vertical beams, a movable leg and All cuts should first be edged. Afterwards the central part is fastened. The next step is to assemble the tabletop and fix the lid to the ends of the legs. The movable element with the frame is installed on the piano hinges, only after this the table can be completely assembled and, if necessary, varnished.
Conclusion
When making a folding camp table with your own hands or any other type of structure for eating, the particular difficulty lies in preparing the parts. It is better to entrust their cutting to professionals if you do not have special skills and tools. But each master can do the assembly independently.