Wood circular machine connection diagram. Serious DIY tools: how to make a circular saw

IN household A circular saw always comes in handy. Major repairs are a costly and troublesome task. Not everyone can afford to buy expensive processing tools. wooden materials. A DIY circular saw allows you to carry out safe work and speed up the construction process. A saw made by yourself has a number of advantages, such as reliability, efficiency and sharpening for immediate needs.

A circular saw

Purpose of a circular saw

Before you begin assembling the machine, you need to clearly define its purpose. For preparing firewood and simply cutting large pieces of wood, a firmly fixed table with a slot for a saw is sufficient. This type is common in villages and rural areas; the machines are not safe and have increased functionality.

For a more varied range of carpentry jobs, you will need a better option. The circular machine must be equipped with a coordinate table with special guides, this allows you to change the degree. The manufacture of small-sized products requires increased safety. Speed ​​control is installed and discs can be changed.

Design features of a circular machine

Circulars of any fixed type consist of main parts.

1. Table for connecting mechanisms. An assembly combined with higher power engines is preferable to a table made entirely of metal. The surface of the table must be made level with your own hands, for a higher quality product at the end.
2. The engine in most cases is used from what is in stock. Electric motors designed for for a long time operation from the network will be preferable to commutator drives.
3. The shaft is the most critical component of the circular. Finished products are used most often; in other cases, the assembly is made on lathe. It is important to calculate mounting holes, eliminate runout.

Desktop table circular saw made with your own hands can be used as cutting machine. The cut cannot reach more than 8 cm, so larger jobs will require the use of a larger machine.

Stationary machine with your own hands

To perform everyday or one-time tasks, a hand-made circular saw is quite suitable. Small-volume sawing work does not imply heavy loads on the disk drive. Compact tool It has small dimensions, which makes it possible to remove it after finishing work in a certain place. For experienced carpenter you will need to make a large stationary type circular.

Making a stationary circular saw with your own hands will require precision and literacy from the master. Drawings presented in many types of literature will help in manufacturing. It is worthwhile to treat every component of the unit competently and carefully, because the circular machine is used at high speeds with a cutting tool.

Circulation table

Saw blade

The design of a DIY circular saw must contain a saw blade. The working surface of the disk is set to one third of the total diameter. For example, with a diameter of 210 mm, the disk should protrude 70 mm from the table. Parts with greater thickness will require a powerful motor, from 1 kW. A miniature circular saw will not cope with such tasks.

The splitting knife installed on some models serves to prevent short circuits and jamming during operation. It is located at the back a few millimeters from the teeth of the saw blade. The device may also be needed when making a circular saw with your own hands.

Adjustable side support

Any type of work will require a stop. The side support is made of a block of dense wood. In other cases, it is possible to make it from a metal corner. The arrangement should be slightly longer than the table structure. The stop is installed using bolts. The template is installed between the table and the cutter for precise installation and better settings.

Shaft

Homemade shaft

The most important part of the design is the shaft mounted on the circular saw. A self-made shaft for a circular saw can damage the structure and cause injury. The reason for this is runout, which cannot be avoided when making a shaft using artisanal methods. The manufacture of the shaft should be entrusted to a specialist with good turning equipment. You should remember that there is a cutter that needs a seat. The holes must be symmetrically machined and machined.

Finished shafts are sold in specialized markets. Preference should be given to parts with a self-aligning bearing. Otherwise, the conventional mechanism may soon render the circular machine unusable.

Broadcast

There are several types of gears that can be used in the design of a DIY circular saw:

• V-belt transmission;
• mechanism consisting of gears.

The preferred option is to use a belt drive. Using a mechanism with gears can lead to jamming if a foreign body enters and injury to the worker. When choosing the pulley diameter, take into account maximum amount revolutions of the saw blade.

Motor

Homemade machines are equipped in most cases with an engine from an old washing machine. The main features are increased service life and efficiency. The speed of such engines is not high, which makes working on a circular saw assembled with your own hands safer, longer, and has a positive effect on the result. The use of a special three-phase motor implies the presence of a 380 Volt network. If one is not available, you will have to use a starting and running capacitor, which leads to additional costs.

Circular saw from a grinder or circular saw

When working with small workpieces, it is enough to get by with a small circular saw. A circular saw, made with your own hands from available power tools, you will need a grinder or Circular Saw.

There are many options for stationary use of improvised tools. It is enough to secure the device from the bottom of the table to access the material to the disk. The height is adjustable depending on the workpiece, but for safety reasons should not exceed one third of the size of the saw blade. This installation option is not available for the switch; it is necessary to modify the device for convenient operation.

A fairly common option is to use a frame on guides. The simple design allows you to use the tool to work at any angle. It consists of two parallel metal pipes or angles on which the saw is mounted.

A hand-made circular saw makes the work you do faster and more economical. Such a device will be needed when major renovation and other activities related to cutting wood. The simplicity of the design, the possibility of using scrap materials, makes the cost almost zero, and making it yourself allows you to add the necessary functionality for the job.

You may also be interested in the following articles:

How to do cross-cutting machines DIY woodworking DIY disc sawmill

A circular saw is specialized equipment that is used for cutting wood, laminate, some types of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction repair work and carpentry operations, the presence of a stationary sawing installation can significantly reduce time costs and improve the quality of the result. If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made model, then you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. To make it yourself, you will need the most common metalworking tools and the skill to work with them. The more necessary materials and parts are available, the cheaper the project will cost.

A stationary circular saw is designed to perform fairly large volumes of work. The design of the implemented option in two forms is presented in the diagram below. It also indicates main installation dimensions, which are recommended to be used as a starting point for self-assembly.

In the drawing the numbers correspond to the following structural elements homemade equipment:

• 1 – frame (bed);
• 2 – side panel;
• 3 – starting device;
• 4 – mechanism for adjusting the height of the table, 13 – its stops;
• 5, 6 and 7 – two halves of the sawing table with a base;
• 8 – electric motor;
• 9 – platform for installing the motor;
• 10 – studs (M10);
• 11 – saw;
• 12 – shaft;
• 14 and 16 – driven and driven pulleys, respectively;
• 15 – belt;
• 17 – switch.

Advice! To improve personal safety when operating homemade mechanism, its rotating parts located under the table should be covered with lids. Above the disk during equipment downtime you need to install protective cover.

It is better to place the starting device in a visible place on the panel (made of dielectric material) so that access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine emergency switch. It is convenient when it is large in size.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit by making it with a jointer or planer. To do this, it is enough to secure a drum with knives on the existing shaft, and make a slot of the appropriate size in the table for it. This will allow you to expand the functionality of the created installation: plan lumber on it, chamfer and select a quarter from wooden blanks.

If you plan to regularly perform carpentry operations using homemade equipment, it is recommended to equip it with coordinate table with several guides. They need to be fixed at different angles. To organize productive work, it should also be possible to regulate the speed of the electric motor and quickly replace disks if necessary.

Selection of materials and parts

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and manufacturing costs. To achieve this, you should select materials and parts with the desired characteristics. To reduce costs, you need to start from old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for making a bed with a table

To make a bed (frame) you can use channel or metal corners(sizes from 25×25 mm to 50×50 mm are sufficient). If these materials are not available, then the most economical option- This is to purchase them at a scrap metal collection point. The legs of the machine will use water pipes or profile metal pipes.

Advice! Frame elements must be connected to each other using electric welding, because bolted connections unwind under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the frame, it is also necessary to weld spacers at the corners to impart rigidity to the structure. To make it easier to move the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim) equipped with locks. It should be borne in mind that the more massive the unit being created, the more stable it must be in order to avoid injury.

Metal pipe frame

The main requirements for a table for a circular saw: resistance to mechanical influences (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand workpieces weighing more than 50 kg without deflection, and surface smoothness. These properties characterize sheets of the following materials:

• become;
• duralumin;
• silumin;
• PCB;
• moisture-resistant plywood;
• organic glass.

If you use moisture resistant plywood , then it should first be covered with zinc-coated sheet metal. The use of chipboard or OSB is not recommended due to the instability of these sheet materials to vibration influences.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or becomes distorted due to deflection, the disk may jam. This can lead not only to damage to the workpiece, but also to injury.

For various works(for example, unraveling logs onto boards) you need to equip a table side stop. It performs the same function as a circular saw guide manual type: ensures smooth sawing of lumber. Moreover, its use makes it possible to obtain workpieces of different sizes.

Guide stop must be strictly parallel to the disk to avoid jamming of the latter. It can be made from a wooden block or a metal corner. In the first case, only hardwood should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the stop must be removable. It can be fixed using clamps or in special grooves (bolts) made parallel to each other on the working surface of the tabletop.

Selection of engine and starting equipment

The easiest way to use a drive for the considered version of a homemade circular machine is single phase electric motor . Its power must be selected taking into account the upcoming load. Indirectly, you can navigate by the diameter of the installed disk:

• if it is 350 mm, then for normal operation the unit requires an electric motor with a power of 1000 W;
• for a disk with a diameter of 170 mm, a 500 W motor is sufficient.

In the latter case, you can make a drive mechanism from an engine from an automatic washing machine. He is able to work long time at an average load level. For discs with a diameter of 350 mm, an electric motor from an industrial ventilation unit. It should be secured firmly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason, it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibration by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly oscillate.

Can also be equipped homemade equipment three-phase electric motor(at 380 V) of suitable power. To start it from a 220 V network, you will need to additionally install working (phase-shifting) and starting capacitors into the electrical circuit. It should also be taken into account that the engine power will be less than the nominal value indicated on its plate or in the passport.

Starting equipment should be selected based on the power of the motor, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a start button in conjunction with thermal protection - this will protect the electric motor from burning out the windings if the current increases when the disk jams. It is better to install protection in a separate electrical panel, attached to the side panel of the machine from the convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated so that the wires do not short-circuit to the frame of a homemade circular electric saw. The on and off buttons should be pressed without any effort. Due to the frequent storage of equipment outdoors, the electrical part must be well protect from getting wet. The simplest thing is to cover the installation with oilcloth or similar waterproof material.

Gear, shaft and disc

To transmit rotation from the electric motor to the disk the best option is the use V-belt together with pulleys from the car engine. The use of gears is not recommended for safety reasons. This is due to the fact that if the disk jams, the belt will simply slip, and the gear drive, due to its rigidity, can cause failure of the entire drive unit.

Advice! If you use pulleys of different diameters, you can change the speed of the disk and install different types on the machine. This is true if there is no motor speed controller.

Shaft manufacturing It is better to entrust it to a specialist by ordering it from a professional turner. Moreover, when you plan to make a circular electric saw more functional by equipping it, for example, with a plane. But the easiest option is to buy finished part factory production. A sample of it is shown in the photo below.

Disc for circular saw It’s easier to buy ready-made than to make it from a sheet of tool steel. The problem is one of balancing. An imbalance of the saw during operation of the equipment leads to its rapid failure and reduces the level of safety of the work process. If you have a circular saw for wood, you can remove the saw blade from it.

It is necessary that the diameter of the disk corresponds to the corresponding parameter of the sawn timber: for example, for 100 mm logs you will need to use a saw measuring approximately 350 mm. This is due to the fact that the disk should not protrude more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.

Ignoring this requirement not only leads to a deterioration in the quality of sawing workpieces, but also increases the possibility of injury.

Algorithm for assembling a homemade circular saw

The assembly of a woodworking machine according to the drawing given earlier is carried out in the following sequence:

• a rectangular frame is made from the corners;
• four legs are welded to it at the corners of the required height;
• at a height of about 200 mm from their lower edge, they make a binding from the corners;
• a shaft is mounted on the upper frame;
• fix the driven pulley on one side and the disk on the other;
• a table with a lifting mechanism is made and attached to the frame;
• on the lower frame they make a platform from corners or sheet metal for the electric motor;
• the drive pulley is fixed on the motor shaft;
• put the belt on the pulleys;
• On and off buttons and an electrical panel are mounted on the side panel of the unit;
• using wires of a suitable cross-section, connect the elements of the electrical circuit of the equipment (motor, buttons, protection);
• supply power to the machine from a stationary network.

The final stage is checking the functionality of the assembled equipment. First, you should make sure that all moving parts rotate freely: to do this, simply twist the drive pulley by hand. After which you can start the unit in test mode. If strong vibration is detected, you will need to check the reliability of the bolted connections and fixation of the disk.

You can make a circular saw with a table consisting of two halves or a solid one. In the latter case, you will need to cut a rectangular slot in it for the disk. The design of the machine with a table consisting of two halves is shown in the video below. This video also demonstrates the design of the lifting mechanism for these parts.

Important! To prevent the possibility of the saw jamming due to the connection of fragments of the workpiece being cut, it is recommended to install a riving knife. It should be located at a distance of approximately 3 mm behind the disc.

To regulate belt tension, the electric motor must be installed so that it can be moved. The easiest way to achieve this is by creating larger slots than required for the motor mounting bolts. In this case, the expansion of the holes should be carried out in the direction of belt tension.

If you follow the drawing completely, you will need to do more complex mechanism belt tension. The process will be carried out by pulling up the platform with the electric motor using studs and fixing it with locking bolts in the desired position (in the drawing these structural elements are indicated by the number 10).

The entire design and assembly process can be greatly simplified if circular saw blade. In this case, there is no need to install a number of parts (motor, disk, shaft, belt, starter). But the capabilities of the created model will be limited by the power of the tool used.

Homemade circular anyway must be grounded. It is also additionally recommended to install a residual current device or differential circuit breaker in the panel. These measures will protect against defeat electric shock, if the machine body is energized, for example, due to breakdown of wire insulation. It is better to select components for the electrical part of a circular saw so that they are suitable for repair and easy to maintain. Free access to equipment components will help you easily replace failed parts.

It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is precisely longitudinal sawing blanks How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

• base;
• sawing table;
• parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.

So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly from rip fence The quality of the cut depends on the fact that if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.

In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

Exist various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point mounting (front and rear)	Advantages:· Quite rigid design, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and with frequent readjustment it is a significant drawback.
Single point mounting (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of a circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the circular table structure, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-production, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.

Preparing for work

Before you start work, you need to decide necessary set tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.

The following tools will be used for work:

1. Circular saw or you can use.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Grinder (Angle grinder).
4. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

During the work you will also need the following materials:

1. Plywood.
2. Solid pine.
3. Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
4. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
5. Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
6. Self-tapping screws.
7. Wood glue.

Design of a circular saw stop

The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is complex design, which includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

• The base of the transverse part;

1. Longitudinal part

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part;

1. Clamp

• Eccentric handle

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

A couple of points to note:

• flat longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage from (or alternatively, you can make it “on a quick fix» false table), which you don’t really mind deforming or ruining. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

• The base of the transverse part;
• Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
• Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
• End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping bars - upper and lower - have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.

With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.

Assembling the entire transverse part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Installing the guide

It's time to secure our entire structure to circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Video

Video on which this material was made.

DIY circular (wooden device)

Round wooden car is a stationary equipment with a circular saw blade. In addition to the slitting machine pendulum saw(cross-cut device) also falls under the concept of a “circular saw”, which is characterized by the mobility of the saw blade fed to a fixed lumber.

Circular (woodworking machine): types

Depending on the design of the device, one can distinguish following types, into which the circular tree is divided:

• Table type suitable for home use. Accordingly, a name placed on a table or workbench has an average weight of 25 kg. Once the job is completed, the machine can be hidden. Greatest depth straight sawing is 75 mm.
• Stationary type. Used in medium and large production, the maximum is 125 mm. Using a stationary circular type, the most accurate and high-quality work is performed.
• Circular machine with stand: it can process long boards thanks to its inclined support. Folding legs allow the machine to be transported. The maximum cutting depth is 85 mm.

Additional types are selected according to the location of the saw blade:

• Horizontal sawing machines. The saw is parallel to the frame.
• Vertical sawing machines. The cutting blade is perpendicular to the frame, the saw can be open or semi-open.
• Angle type: two disks operating simultaneously, located at right angles to each other.

All of the listed types of equipment can be professional and used for home use. The difference lies in the power of the machines, the number of tools and additional options.

Round wood design

Industrial and household circular saws are standard equipment. It consists of the following elements:

The main part of the circular machine to which all other pieces of equipment are attached. The frame is usually made of cast iron or strong steel to ensure stability and vibration-free operation during operation, so as not to complicate the process. If the frame is made of wood, it must be secured with stiffeners

1. Working surface.

Placement table saw material is a working surface. As a rule, its upper part is made of metal or cast iron; on the surface there are guides and rulers for measuring lumber and ease of installation. The part of the working surface on which the saw blade is located is usually removable, which makes it easy to replace. The saw slot must match the thickness of the blade, otherwise, with a larger size, the slot will be constantly clogged with chips and sawdust.

The thickness of the processed wood depends on the diameter of the circular saw blade of the woodworking machine. The disk must be installed so that 1/3 of its diameter does not exceed the working surface.

Professional equipment is usually equipped with a guard to protect the operator from contact with the saw blade, as well as from pressing the lumber.

Read also

This element is installed to simplify the sawing process, especially when processing improperly dried or sticky wood, which can lead to jamming of the saw blade. The clamping knife is installed behind the saw blade relative to the working stroke.

Simplest sawing machine in the world!

At the very end of the video I'm giving away a FlexCut knife! And although I have a good one sawing machine, I need it.

Homemade circular saw with your own hands (circular saw, sawing table)

Homemade circular (sawing or saw machine) can be done with your own hands.

This element serves as a guide for smooth cutting. The longitudinal stop must be made of rigid material and not move during operation; it is fixed in at least two places.

The drive consists of a motor and a shaft on which the saw blade is mounted. For high-quality processing of lumber, a two-phase or three-phase motor with a power of 1200-1500 W is required. The shaft for attaching the saw should be sized to match the inside diameter of the blade and provide a secure and secure fit.

Homemade wood circulars with your own hands, photo

Homemade circular saws, provided they are assembled correctly, can produce high-quality cuts and have a service life that is on par with factory-made models.

Do-it-yourself circular carving on wood

To assemble a homemade car model, you will need the following materials and tools:

1. A metal sheet
2. plywood
3. Cross beam 50×50 mm
4. Board 50×100 mm
5. Steel corner
6. Clamps
7. Screwdriver, electric drill
8. Measuring instruments
9. Hacksaw for saw or paw
10. Manual freezer

A homemade circular must meet the following requirements:

• Capital rigidity and structural stability, on which equipment safety indicators depend.
• Straight work surface
• Grounding the machine
• Free space for sawdust
• Free access to wood waste for disposal
• The presence of a protective casing over the rotating disk.

When choosing a saw, you should take into account the quality requirements and safe operation: safe fastening of the disk, working with the saw, as well as the presence of a start and stop button for the sawing machine.

Read also

Do-it-yourself round wood can be assembled from an ordinary Bulgarian or corner grinding machine. Basis for homemade car Can also be a hand-held circular saw or electric drill. Before assembly homemade model you need to think about its design, calculate the load it will be subjected to.

To begin, create a stable frame or workbench. The main ring model does not always require a metal welded structure, since it cannot withstand the same loads as powerful industrial equipment. If the saw blade speed does not exceed 4500 rpm during operation, the workbench can be made of wood.

Frame dimensions are calculated based on the basic parameters of the equipment, in particular the dimensions of the saw. At this stage, you need to determine the power of the saw blade. Generally, homemade circle wood for your own use for home use is made using a saw with a power of no more than 850 watts. But to build a house, it is necessary to process a much larger volume of lumber; accordingly, the power parameters of the saw will be different. In this case, experts do not recommend installing a saw with a power of more than 1250 W. it would not be justified by the costly and safety-risky equipment.

The frame must provide for the possibility of lowering and raising the disk, as well as the location of the equipment control panel. When placing control buttons, it is necessary to take into account their safe position relative to cutting disc. this could be the outside of the machine or a growing countertop.

To make a work surface, you can use metal sheet, plywood or chipboard.

An indispensable element of a homemade machine are guides for accurate and even sawing of wood. The guide structure is made of welded angle steel and is attached to the tabletop using clamps. It is not advisable to rigidly fix the guides in order to be able to change their position in the future.

The area of ​​the groove for the saw and the fixation of fasteners are indicated on the bottom side of the tabletop. The legs of the tabletop are made of rod; the height of the support is selected individually for convenience. Additional stability of the work station will be attached to the legs with steel corners and tightening the supports along the diagonal rails.

The table top can be spread apart or attached to the table top for easy cutting.

A grinder or hand-held circular saw is mounted on the bottom of the workbench so that the circular saw is guided to the surface through a slot. It is necessary to check the angle of the saw: it should be 90 degrees.

If a person lives in a private house or has a garden plot, then having a stationary circular saw in the arsenal home handyman not only desirable, but sometimes necessary. Unfortunately, the cost of an industrially manufactured sample of such a saw does not correspond to the frequency of its home use, and for some Russians it is simply unaffordable. At the same time, making a “circular” with your own hands is quite simple, using a drive for this sewing machine or a regular electric drill. However, the quality of work performed and the range of operations performed largely depend on the bed of the circular saw.

Bed design

Circular saw stand

The simplest circular saw frame, the drive power of which does not exceed 0.8...12 kilowatts, is quite easy to make with your own hands from thick plywood and wooden blocks. For the drive, you can use an electric drill “BOSCH GSB 19-2” (power 0.85 kilowatts) or “DWT SBM-1050” (power 1.05 kilowatts), which is attached to under the stove using a special bracket. The length of the bed will depend on the length of the material being cut. For the table, you must purchase bakelite plywood with a thickness of at least 50.0 millimeters. Of course for professional work a wooden bed will not work, but in order to loosen the boards, quickly saw the bars like this homemade design quite enough.

In general, the bed will consist of a base and a tabletop (desktop). Of course, when manually making a circular saw yourself, you must strive to simplify the design as much as possible. The design of the work table will primarily be determined by the design of the cutting blade mounting unit. Homemade circular devices use either a circular disk mounted directly in the chuck of an electric drill, or (more preferably) a two-support shaft driven into rotation by an electric motor through a belt drive.

Making a countertop

At the first stage of making a frame with a wooden tabletop with your own hands, the existing sheet of plywood is placed in accordance with the existing sketch or drawing. In order to reduce the number of cuts, markings are carried out from the edges of the sheet. The tool used is a fine-toothed hacksaw or a jigsaw.

On bottom side cut off a sawn piece and mark a slot for the disk. The cut can be made with a finger cutter, securing it with your own hands in the chuck of an electric drill. In order to maintain the straightness of the cut edges, a simple homemade copier made from two metal corners is attached to the tabletop with clamps. Further work depends on the mechanism for attaching the circular saw blade. The easiest way is to install it manually on two bearing supports, and drive it through a belt drive from a separate electric motor or from an electric drill.

To add additional rigidity to the tabletop, it is advisable to attach stiffening ribs along its edges, which can be made from bars or aluminum corners. The stiffeners are fastened to the table using self-tapping screws. To give greater strength to the entire structure, an additional layer of epoxy glue can be applied to the joint, which will fix the block to the tabletop along the entire plane of the joint. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the block should be 2.0...4.0 centimeters.

After this, in accordance with the selected drive design, the support unit is attached circular disk. For reliable fastening, it is better to fix the bearing housings to the frame using a screw, threaded connection. In this case, the countersunk screw heads are located on the upper plane of the tabletop and should not protrude above its plane. The upper working surface of the desktop should be coated with wear-resistant varnish and polished.

For greater safety when working with homemade device above cutting edge It is advisable to install a swinging protective cover on the disk.

Base design

For safe work For a homemade circular saw, the table must be installed on a sufficiently rigid and durable base. To make it manually, the master’s imagination is given complete freedom. The base can be made in the form wooden base, but it is better to weld from a corner (such as an aquarium frame) in accordance with the size of the tabletop.

Some manufacturing nuances

The main parameter that determines the design of a homemade “circular saw” is the thickness of the boards being cut. For household work You usually don’t need to cut wood thicker than 15.0…20.0 millimeters with your own hands. To change the depth of cut, you can use and/or make special mechanism lifting the disk, but this will significantly complicate the design of the homemade product.

When choosing a drive motor, the rotation speed of its shaft should be taken into account. Using a belt drive, you can change the speed with your own hands. If you intend to use an electric drill as a drive, then preference should be given to models with variable chuck rotation speed, then using such a hand-made circular saw will be a pleasure.

Conclusion

Despite the primitiveness of the described design, it will significantly facilitate do-it-yourself homework, from carpentry operations with boards to cross-cutting of trimmed garden trees thick knots.

Review and comparison of factory models

Einhell RT-TS 920 Hitachi C10RD Jet JBTS-10 Metabo TKHS 315

stanokgid.ru

How to make a machine from a circular saw with your own hands?

• Wooden machine from a circular saw
• Making a metal frame: instructions
• Making a stationary circular

For sawing various lumber at home great tool is a hand-held circular saw. This power tool can cut lumber of various sections at any angle. This tool perfectly cuts sheets of plywood, hardboard or chipboard.

Diagram of a circular saw machine.

However technical capabilities such a tool can be significantly expanded, which is often necessary when performing repair work, if stationary machine from a circular saw with your own hands.

It is not difficult to carry out such a transformation, and anyone who needs it can make a machine from a circular saw. To do this, you simply need to fix it on the prepared surface in a certain position. In the simplest version, durable construction trestles can be used as an installation site. For long-term use of a circular saw machine, it is better to make a durable, welded metal frame.

To make such a wooden base, you will need:

• sheet of plywood 8-10 mm thick;
• wooden blocks size 40x50 mm;
• universal glue;
• self-tapping screws and bolts with M8 nuts.

Diagram of a homemade cutting device.

A sheet measuring approximately 100x60 cm is cut out of plywood (maybe another). Along the edges of the plywood sheet (along its perimeter), bars are attached using glue and self-tapping screws. Then the tool body is applied to the inside of the sheet, and the places where it is attached to it are marked, as well as the groove for the cutting disk. After that, a groove for the passage of the disk is cut out with a jigsaw (or a router), and holes are drilled for attaching the body. The legs are attached to the side bars using bolts. The height of the circular saw machine is selected from 80 to 90 cm. The body is attached to a previously prepared place on its inner side. The bolts for its fastening must be made flush (not protrude on the surface). The lid must be varnished or painted.

To ensure that the material is cut strictly to size, a guide block is installed parallel to the cutting disc. The block can be attached to the table surface with clamps. The wooden circular saw machine is ready for use.

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A circular saw machine made of metal is much stiffer and stronger than wood and has a longer service life. To make such a bed, you will need the following material and tools:

• a sheet of metal (preferably steel) measuring approximately 1000x500 mm and a thickness of 3 to 5 mm;
• metal corner approximately 45x45 mm;
• M8 bolts and nuts;
• welding machine;
• electric drill;
• Bulgarian;
• clamps.

First of all, prepare a table for the machine from a circular saw. To do this around the perimeter metal sheet welded metallic profile. In order for it to fit tightly to the sheet, it must be pressed to the surface with clamps. Then, on the back side of the sheet, the attachment points for the housing and the groove for the saw blade are marked. Using an electric drill, holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled to mount the housing.

Assembly diagram homemade sawmill.

WITH front side The holes on the table are countersunk to install fasteners in a countersunk position.

Using a grinder and a drill, a groove for the disk is cut in the table. To cut the groove carefully, you need to drill holes with a diameter of approximately 10 mm along the edges of the intended groove and cut a groove between these holes with a grinder. The tool body is installed and secured to the prepared place.

Four pieces approximately 800 to 900 mm long are cut from the corner for the table legs. Then the legs are welded to the corners of the table. To give greater rigidity, a corner is welded between the legs at a distance of approximately 100 mm from the floor surface.

To ensure high-quality cutting of the material, it is necessary to install a guide bar parallel to the disk. It is best to make it from a corner. For this purpose it is cut off flat corner along the length of the table, then two guides are welded to it, which should fix the movement of the bar parallel to the cutting disk. You can fasten the bar to the table with clamps or using a welded plate with bolts.

After completing the welding work, the welding seams are cleaned, the surfaces are degreased and covered with anti-corrosion paint. The circular saw machine is ready for use.

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If you don’t have a circular saw, and you need a more powerful machine for the job, you can make a small stationary machine. Such a machine, manufactured at a factory, is quite expensive, but a machine made by yourself will be several times cheaper. In order to make such a unit, we need the following material and tools:

Assembly of the front part of the machine.

• steel sheet thickness from 3 to 5 mm, size approximately 1200x700 mm;
• metal corner 50x50 mm;
• asynchronous motor at 220 V, 2.2 kW, 2850 rpm. (or another, at the request of the performer);
• pulley for engine;
• shaft with bearings and pulley;
• V-belt;
• saw blade:
• M10 bolts;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• electric drill;
• clamps.

First of all, you need to purchase a shaft with bearings and a mount for the cutting disc. You can buy it in the store building materials or order and make it in workshops (they often have finished goods and cheaper than in the store).

A frame is welded from a corner to fit the size of the prepared sheet. Then it is temporarily installed on it. After that, the installation locations of the shaft and electric motor are marked. Then two corners are welded into the frame flat surfaces upward for mounting the shaft and motor. The prepared frame is attached to the sheet with clamps and welded. A groove for the disk is cut into the sheet. In prepared areas, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled to mount the shaft and motor. In the places where the motor is mounted, grooves are cut in the corners according to the size of the holes (for tensioning the V-belt).

Four corners are cut for the machine legs. The prepared legs are welded in the corners of the table frame. The structure is cleaned of rust, dirt and painted with metal paint. The shaft and motor are bolted to the back of the table, and a V-belt is installed. The belt is tensioned by moving the motor along the grooves, and then the mounting bolts are tightened tightly. The engine starting device is attached to the frame at the end. To provide high-quality cutting A guide bar is installed parallel to the disk, which can be fastened to the table surface with clamps or bolts into pre-prepared holes. The unit is ready for use.

By making a machine from a circular saw, you can greatly facilitate the work of sawing lumber.

By building such a unit correctly with your own hands, you can save significant cash.

masterbrusa.ru

DIY table for a circular saw

A circular saw is used to cut wood and plastic. Its cutting base is a flat metal disk with a serrated outer edge. When choosing such a tool, everyone decides for themselves what type they need: tabletop, manual, stationary. Many people prefer manual option. However, in some situations it is necessary to secure the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, having the opportunity to secure the tool if necessary.

Preparation of tools and materials

Having decided to make a table for a hand-held circular saw yourself, you need to make sure that you have all the materials necessary for the work:

• laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
• 16 mm laminated chipboard or other sheet material suitable for making the body, sheet size 400 by 784 mm - 4 pieces;
• bars 40 by 40 mm (length depends on installation method);
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts.

For such table will do any hand-held circular saw. It must be remembered that when attached to a table, the cutting depth decreases by 10–20 mm. So saws with small blades are not suitable for such a table.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a table for a circular saw

1. Manufacturing of the body. Sheet material for the body is cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. The parts are fastened using self-tapping screws and bars. It is better to carry out the assembly by first drilling out the external parts of the box. The result is a rectangular box without a bottom or lid. The upper part of the bars is subsequently used to secure the plywood sheet.

2. Preparing and securing the plywood top. Hole slot. First, a piece 800 mm by 80 mm is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, measurements are taken of the support shoe of the saw that will be mounted on the tabletop. Markings are made on the back side of the plywood. 2 central axles will be required. Without them, it is impossible to make accurate markings. Then marks are applied to the plywood corresponding to the dimensions of the support shoe. Then they take the measurements that the circular has: the diameter of the lower protective casing, its thickness, the maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. In accordance with the obtained dimensions, place marks and cut out a rectangular hole using a jigsaw.

3. Attaching the saw to the plywood table top. First, 4 holes are made in the shoe. Diameter – 10 mm. Next, install the tool so that the working part fits into the cut hole. When the saw is level, you need to mark the location of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. In order for the tool to stand securely, you will need plowshare bolts with a countersunk conical head (M8) for fastening. To install them, you will have to take care of the high-quality recess of the cap; it can protrude by a maximum of 1 mm when not tightened.

The plywood is drilled from the outside, the diameter of the resulting holes should be 8 mm, and then a countersink should be made for the head. When the holes are ready, the saw itself is installed on the cutting table for the circular saw, the bolts are tightened from the inside using nuts with plastic locks or spring washers.

4. Fastening the tabletop to the body. Start button. First, holes are made at a distance of 30 mm in the corners of the plywood tabletop. Then a hole is drilled in the central part of the bars. The parts are connected using an M8 18 mm steel fitting. The usual “Start-Start” button is installed on the side. An electrical network is laid inside the case, and the button on the instrument itself is pressed.

5. Making a thrust beam. A simple table for a circular saw will become much more convenient if you equip it with a stop beam. Drawings contain everything required sizes. The beam can be made from plywood and secured using full extension furniture rails. The resulting beam should slide above the surface at an angle of 90° to the cutting plane with a slight gap.

6. Stop for longitudinal cuts. It is made from aluminum cornice. 150 mm from the edges, first drill holes for the bolts, and then draw 2 lines from the place where the bolts are attached to the center line. At the intersection and further towards the bolts, 12 mm holes are made at a distance of 30 mm. The bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines they make slits in the tonic; their width can be seen in the photo.

Information on how to make a table for a circular saw can be seen in the video. This will help you quickly and easily improve the equipment of your workshop.

Video of making a circular table with your own hands

Homemade circular saw with your own hands (circular saw, sawing table)
Circular table from a hand-held circular saw. Option 2.

mainavi.ru

How to make a homemade table for a circular table with your own hands according to drawings

The hand-held circular saw is a powerful tool with high performance. One of the main advantages of a circular saw - maneuverability - becomes a disadvantage when it is necessary to cut large volumes of wood. To make the process easier, you can easily assemble your circular saw table yourself.

Table structure

small table stand for circular saw

The design of a table for a hand-held circular saw is so simple that most craftsmen make it without preliminary drawings and diagrams. This is a sturdy workbench that is made of wood and plywood. The most reliable table bases are made of metal. They are the heaviest and require welding skills. Therefore, stands are often made from waste lumber. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the blade protrudes above it through a specially made slot. The lumber is advanced along the tabletop and cut with a rotating disk. For convenience and accuracy of work, the table is equipped with additional accessories: corner and longitudinal stop.

The tabletop “eats” part of the working surface of the disk, the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. Therefore, it is advisable to select a circular saw with a maximum disk diameter, and a table top that is thin but hard.

If you have not purchased a saw yet, select models with high power(from 1200 W). They can handle cutting large volumes of wood. Holes will be drilled in the sole for mounting; the cast base may crack. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.

Selection of materials

mounting a circular saw under a tabletop

To do good stand for a hand-held circular saw, you should remember your carpentry skills, be patient and have a small amount of materials:

• laminated plywood 15 - 20 mm;
• timber 50 x 50;
• board;
• switch;
• external socket;
• a piece of electrical cable;
• PVA glue;
• wood varnish (if the plywood is not laminated);
• self-tapping screws

And tools:

• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• ruler.

The size of the countertop will depend on the size of the workshop. At the same time, too small table It will be inconvenient to saw long sections. If the part fits entirely on the working surface, the cut is smoother and more accurate. The height of the legs is selected depending on the height of the master.

For a small workshop, a tabletop design with approximate dimensions of 50 x 50 x 25 cm is convenient.

Table manufacturing process

1. We cut out a tabletop of the required size from a sheet of laminated plywood. The markings are applied to the lower plane using a metal ruler and pencil. We cut the plywood with a jigsaw, milling the edges if necessary. If the plywood is not laminated, sand the surface of the table.
2. Turn it over and make markings from the bottom for fastening manual circular saw. To do this, remove the disc from the tool and place it with the sole on required space. We make marks on the tabletop and on the sole for fasteners and a groove for the saw blade. Drill holes for the bolts. They will be screwed from above, through the tabletop and held in place with nuts from below. Therefore, we countersink the holes on the working surface side and grind the bolt heads so that they do not protrude.
3. If you plan to cut material at different angles, the slot for the saw wheel is made in the shape of an inverted trapezoid. For smooth sawing a regular groove is made. Before cutting the slot and holes for fasteners, apply a saw, adjust the marks and only then cut.
4. Mark with a pencil the locations of the stiffeners. They are made from boards and installed from below, 8 - 9 cm from the edge of the tabletop. We will attach the table legs to the ribs. The ribs are fixed with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 - 25 centimeters, and additionally glued with PVA. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from above, through the tabletop, and the heads are completely recessed. The ribs are fastened together with long self-tapping screws.
5. The legs of the table are made of a block or board; their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. Legs that diverge slightly downwards will give greater stability. They are fixed with large bolts, tightened from the outside, and secured from the inside with nuts. The timber ties will further strengthen the frame.
6. To adjust the height of the table, nuts are attached to the bottom into which M14 bolts are screwed.
7. Now you can fix the saw from below by inserting the disc into the prepared slot.
8. We attach an electrical outlet to the inside of the table and pass it through electrical wire and install the switch in convenient location(on the outer part of the stiffener). Power to the outlet will be supplied from the switch. We stretch a wire from it to the nearest power source in the workshop. Using a construction tie, we fix the ON-OFF button on the body of the circular saw in a recessed position.

Let's start making auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop you will need #30 square aluminum pipe and two screws with wing nuts.

1. We saw off a piece of pipe along the length of the tabletop, and cut holes for screws 3 cm from the edge.
2. We cut out two clamps from pieces of plywood. The structure is ready.
3. For sawing across the table, we make a plywood sled. We align them with the edges of the table, press them and move them along the toothed circle. We cut a groove where the circle passes through the slide. Small parts can be placed directly inside the slide and sawed.

Dust removal is organized from under the table, but most of the dust flies from above, so it’s a good idea to supplement the device with an upper dust extractor.

Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, so it is important to protect your fingers. From a piece of board or furniture board cut out the pusher.

Additions to the design

This design can be supplemented with a riving knife, which will be removed. Put a disk guard on it, which cuts off the flow of chips flying directly at the carpenter.

Some craftsmen, when assembling a table according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory protective casing and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If you do not plan to cut at an angle, you can remove all the devices for adjusting the tilt of the disk. The saw is fixed directly on the new base, which allows you to gain a few millimeters of cutting depth.

Without an internal casing, it is easier to remove the blade; the saw does not become so clogged with chips when working with raw boards. Disassembly requires extra time, but the engine resource is saved and overload is prevented.

The first video is about a stationary table for a circular saw, the second is about a small portable structure:

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