Do-it-yourself construction of houses from SIP panels: video. How to build a house from SIP panels? Adopting Canadian technology Step-by-step instructions for building a house from sip panels

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Sandwich panels were invented not so long ago, but very quickly found their niche in the construction field. Houses made from sip panels are gaining more and more popularity, and there are a great many reasons for this, from the fact that the material protects well from the cold to the extremely short installation time. It’s clear that everyone wants to move into their own home as quickly as possible, but developers sometimes announce unjustifiably high prices for your services. The way out of this situation suggests itself - why not build a house from sip panels with your own hands?

What are sip panels: material characteristics

Sip panels, also known as sandwich panels, appeared in Europe about 50 years ago, but entered the domestic market relatively recently. Their design is very simple: between two wooden slabs there is a layer of polystyrene foam. It acts as heat and sound insulation. The thickness of the “filling” varies depending on the purpose of the panels.

The main factors influencing the choice of panel thickness are the type of construction (summer or winter), the type of wall (external or internal) and the climatic conditions of the area. On both sides, polystyrene foam is protected by OSB boards made from pressed wood chips.

The panels are attached to each other without gaps, which eliminates the occurrence of cold bridges and increases the thermal insulation characteristics. Tight connections are provided by special grooves into which wooden dowels are inserted. The panels have standard width in 125 cm, 250 cm and 280 cm.

Advantages of sip panels

Frame houses made from sip panels have gained popularity all over the world for a reason. This building material has a lot of advantages and disadvantages compared to traditional products: bricks, reinforced concrete slabs, blocks, etc.

Unfortunately, it has not yet been possible to invent an impeccable building material that would not have a single drawback. Sip panels are no exception, but its shortcomings can be attributed more to the peculiarities of operation than to serious mistakes.

Opponents of sip panels (yes, there are some) claim that they are highly flammable and generally unsuitable for building houses. However, fires often occur inside, and there panel walls sheathed with non-flammable plasterboard, so the risk that such a building will catch fire like a match is minimized.

There is also a legend that mice and other rodents like to live in sip panels, but no one has yet provided actual evidence of this. The issue of environmental friendliness is also particularly acute, but it also fades away if we remember that many products (meat, fish, poultry, sweets) are often packaged in polystyrene foam containers.

Some argue that panel walls do not protect against noise, but if we take into account the fact that life in a private house excludes the existence of neighbors behind the walls, below and above, then there is no particular source of noise. In addition, external and internal finishing increases soundproofing characteristics.

The only truly justified nuance of using sandwich panels is the arrangement of ventilation. Since the elements are fitted close to each other, the result is completely blank walls that do not allow air to pass through. For this reason, at the stage of creating a project for houses made of sip panels, the installation of the ventilation system is immediately taken into account.

Choosing a foundation

As we have already said, panel houses do not require a massive, expensive foundation, but mistakes in organizing this issue are quite common. This is because it is necessary to take into account not only the light weight of the house box, but also the properties of the soil, the level of groundwater and climatic conditions in general.

The best options for foundations for houses made of sandwich panels are:

  • screw pile;
  • columnar;
  • shallow tape;
  • monolithic (reinforced concrete slab).

The main danger in the construction of such houses lies in the lateral tangential forces under the building - during the spring heaving of the soil, the foundation may simply come to the surface, and because of this the house will tilt or crack. Whatever foundation you choose, its cost will be about 20% of all construction costs, which is quite a lot. But you should not save at this stage under any circumstances, otherwise subsequent repairs and error correction will take even more money.

Screw piles

The overwhelming majority of experts agree that frame houses using Canadian technology are best built on a foundation of screw piles. It's comparative new way arrangement of the base, which is characterized by efficiency, simplicity and high speed of installation compared to others. Construction of a foundation on screw piles is 30-40% cheaper than any other, even taking into account the fact that you will need to hire a team of professional builders.

The screw pile is steel pipe, to which a blade of a special configuration is welded. It has a high load-bearing capacity, since during the process of screwing into the soil the pile does not loosen the soil, but, on the contrary, compacts it with its blades. It goes deep to a level below freezing of the soil, which naturally prevents deformation of the building from heaving.

The service life of such a foundation can be calculated in centuries (usually the manufacturer gives 100 years). But the main advantage is the ventilated underground, which is very useful when using sip panels. In addition, if you ever want to make an extension to the house, you just need to install the required number of piles nearby, and the foundation will work as one whole, evenly distributing the total load.

Shallow foundation

This type of foundation for houses made of vulture panels is used less frequently and mainly on non-heaving and slightly heaving soils. In other cases, he will “go” in the first spring. For arrangement, the fertile layer of soil (about 30-40 cm) is removed, formwork with reinforcement is arranged and everything is filled with cement mortar.

A shallow foundation can easily support the weight of sip panels. To minimize the risk of deformation from uneven soil heaving, experts recommend installing a gravel-sand cushion before pouring concrete.

To increase strength and durability, the foundation is reinforced with a reinforcement cage.

Concrete pouring should be done at one time, so for efficient work you may need the help of 2-3 people. After pouring, the concrete must be treated with a vibrating plate or at least pierced with a stick in several places to prevent the formation of air voids.

The disadvantage of this method is the long period of concrete drying, which can last up to 4 weeks. Also, underground ventilation will not be as good as in the case of piles. For this, special holes are usually made. If you want to make an extension to your house in a few years, building up a shallow foundation will be quite problematic and troublesome. The laying of all communications (electricity, sewerage, water supply) must be organized before pouring concrete, which is also not very convenient.

Monolithic foundation

If your site is located on weak heaving soil, installing a monolithic foundation will be the only right solution. It is a solid reinforced concrete slab that evenly distributes the load from the house onto the ground and does not allow it to deform due to seasonal movements.

Construction principle slab foundation It’s quite simple: remove the fertile layer of soil, make a drainage cushion from sand and crushed stone, fill everything with concrete and strengthen the screed with iron reinforcement.

The only drawback of this type of foundation is high price and difficulties in constructing additional extensions in the future.

Columnar foundation

Such a foundation can be considered a “relative” of a pile foundation, but the arrangement will take much more time and effort, although its cost is lower than that of a monolithic or strip foundation. A columnar foundation is suitable for non-heaving and slightly heaving soils.

It consists of pillars located at the intersection points of the walls, at the corners of the future building, at the locations of massive load-bearing beams, piers and at points with heavy load (long walls, for example). The columnar base eliminates the possibility of arranging a basement, but gives additional ventilation underground, as in the case of piles.

The shape of the pillars can be any, but most often they are made round, because such structures are easiest to place in holes made with a hand drill. Different materials are also used: bricks, wood, concrete. Square pillars are made of brick, but they are inconvenient to place at depth. Therefore, the best option is to build round concrete pillars, reinforced with reinforcement.

Important: columnar foundations cannot be laid in areas with high level groundwater, since in this case the foundation on which the pillars will rest will be fragile and may be washed away by water.

Panel installation

We have mentioned more than once that sip panels are very light, so you do not need large construction equipment for installation. In fact, the work is very simple and quick, and if it is better to enlist the support of specialists to build the foundation, then it is quite possible to build a house from sip panels on your own.

Important: before starting installation, you should carefully calculate the house made of sip panels in order to stock up necessary materials, including finishing, fasteners, arrangement of the roofing pie. The drawing must show the thickness of the load-bearing and interior walls, laying communications, location of windows and doors.

How to install houses from sip panels:


Sip panel finishing

Construction of houses from sip panels is pleasant not only because of the quick installation time and ease of construction - finishing such structures is a real pleasure! Since the surface of the panels is perfectly flat and smooth, you do not have to spend money on plaster or screed and spend hours leveling walls, floors and ceilings to achieve the desired result for the finishing cladding. Let's look at what we can do to improve frame house outside and how to carry out interior decoration.

Interior finishing

Before proceeding with the interior finishing, it is necessary to seal the joints with paint mesh, sand and polish them. Since the panels are monolithic, immediately think about where the communications will be located and make holes for them. In the bathroom, preparation follows a different scenario - the joints are closed not with a mesh, but with a sealant based on silicone or acrylic. The panels on the floor should be completely covered and overlap the walls by about 20 cm, so that if water spills, the wall materials will not get wet.

Any materials can be used for finishing a house made of sip panels. It is recommended to pre-cover the walls with plasterboard. This is necessary not so much for aesthetics (the panels are already smooth), but to enhance the fire safety of the building (we wrote about this above).

Since the floors in such houses do not need leveling and insulation, they can be covered with even the most demanding coverings - laminate, tiles, parquet. In the bathroom and kitchen it is better to make self-leveling acrylic floors to provide additional waterproofing.

Exterior finishing

Some owners prefer not to resort to exterior finishing of houses made of sandwich panels at all - they already look quite beautiful. But to protect the material from dampness, it is recommended to cover it with something.

The most popular options for exterior finishing of panel houses:


As described in detail in the video, houses made of sip panels are becoming increasingly popular every year. This is explained not so much by fashion as by tangible savings - housing is constantly becoming more expensive, apartments in cities cost more and more, and it is becoming more and more difficult to find your own home.

Why spend crazy money on an apartment with a modest square footage, noisy neighbors and a smoky highway outside the window, when you can build your own spacious and warm house Are sip panels much cheaper?

Houses made of sip panels: photos





How are panel-frame buildings heated?

Assembling vulture houses

Buy a house from SIP panels

Do-it-yourself construction of houses from sip panels, video, instructions, step-by-step guide

Step-by-step video instructions - how to build a house from sandwich - SIP panels yourself

How to assemble a vulture at home. Video

Every instruction is very detailed guide, study everything carefully, carefully, pay attention to all the nuances and details!!! Be sure to read and study both documents, as this is the only way you will gain a complete understanding of the entire construction process yourself! Remember that SIP at home is just one option among types of prefabricated buildings.

In the documents, you will learn EVERYTHING about how to make a panel-frame building with your own hands, what materials are used for this, what you need to know, and, of course, you will find and get acquainted with practical skills in the construction of prefabricated buildings.

Stages of building a frame house from SIP panels - step-by-step sequence of actions

Any construction of a panel-frame structure is step by step process, which involves a sequence of construction work. When we build a house from sip panels with our own hands, we not only have to pour the foundation ourselves, but also install windows, doors, and also carry out interior wall decoration, conduct electrical networks and communications, not forgetting construction of an attic floor And facade finishing.

Construction – manufacturing, pouring the foundation

Building a foundation - This is the foundation of your future home. The most common foundation options are shallow strip foundations and foundations on screw piles. It's no secret that prefabricated houses have a relatively light weight, good environmental friendliness and do not require massive foundations.

Foundation on screw piles with piping for a vulture house. Photo

Foundation from screw piles with your own hands, on your own. Video

This significantly reduces construction costs and increases its speed. From this link you can learn in detail about all types of foundations for houses made of SIP panels.

Planning and choosing a house foundation will depend on the type of soil, slope on your plot of land, as well as directly from the area of ​​the building itself. If the foundation is from monolithic concrete. Then you definitely need to make a waterproofing layer. Details at the link above. It happens that if the soil is loose and sandy, then it makes sense to use a monolithic slab as a foundation.

The foundation for a vulture house is a monolithic slab. Photo

Strapping beam - floor base

The next stage of construction of a vulture house with my own hands, is the arrangement of the base floor and walls of the first floor. If the building is two storeys. As a rule, a dry strapping beam is used for this, which is pre-treated with antiseptic compounds - this significantly improves fire safety.

Laying the strapping beam on the foundation. Photo

Laying is carried out around the perimeter of the house and along the contours of the load-bearing internal partitions. If the foundation is on screw piles, then you should first arrange a base of steel channel.

Installation of SIP panels - assembly of a house kit

So you bought SIP panels and your next action is theirs self installation. Assembling a house from SIP panels– this is a process that requires special attention! If you are a beginner, then it is best for you to install the walls of the house according to the instructions, which you can download at the beginning of the article. It should be understood that making a home kit occurs individually for each project.

Assembling a house from sip panels yourself, using your own resources. Video

Preparing a house set from sip panels for assembly. Photo

When a house kit is delivered to you, you need to pay attention to the assembly sequence. All panels must be numbered, and the numbering must clearly correspond to the assembly diagram of the house kit. Your task is to lay out all SIP panels according to numbering along the perimeter of the foundation. If the building consists of two floors, then the first floor set is laid out first.

Do-it-yourself installation of sip panels. Video

SIP panels are quite heavy, which ensures good sound insulation. You will definitely need help, at least two people, be sure to take care of this. The panels are installed by splicing them together, as well as by tying the lower base to the strapping beam.

Installing SIP panels yourself. Photo from idealfoundations.com.au

The connecting element between SIP panels is the frame elements - this is a wooden antiseptic beam. Also, to enhance the fastening properties, an assembly sealant is used - this is a one-component material based on polyurethane foam, in common parlance polyurethane foam.

This connection scheme is called “tongue-and-groove”; it is reliable enough to provide long-term service life of prefabricated buildings. After connecting the panels using a wooden beam, it is necessary to screw in self-tapping screws on both sides, which significantly increases the rigidity of the entire structure.

Installation of wall panels occurs only when the bottom trim is completely done. First, the corner components of the house kit are installed, and only then the remaining load-bearing posts and the panels themselves are attached (installation is carried out from the first corner panel and is simultaneously carried out in both directions, to the second corner sandwich panel).

Correct installation of a house kit made of sip panels. Video

After installation, each panel must be adjusted using a building level. This approach allows you to correctly position all the walls of the set in space independently. During detection of deviations and adjustments are the key to correct installation.

Assembly of house walls from SIP panels. Photo

Strictly adhere to the SIP panel assembly diagram and carefully monitor the sequence of actions. Remember that all joints and cracks between SIP panels must be treated with polyurethane foam!

Assembly, installation, installation of floors

There are the following types of floors- zero overlap, interfloor overlap and attic overlap.

Zero overlap made of sip panels. Photo from the site stavimsteni.ru

Any of these floors can be arranged either from SIP panels or using a wooden frame made of T-beams or two T-beams. Just as it is pros and cons of sip panels, and each type of flooring has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Between the floors the ceiling is made of sip panels. Photo from the site sipdom.ucoz.ru

If you decide to assemble floors from sandwich panels, then this is done by analogy with assembling walls. This is a completely acceptable approach, since the heat-insulating properties justify the laboriousness of the process. Of the minuses, if the house area is large. You may need heavy equipment.

Assembling the frame floor of a house in a vulture house. Photo

Assembling floors using T-beams or two T-beams (depending on the load-bearing loads) is reliable, inexpensive and effective. This approach is also justified from the point of view of laying utility networks - ventilation,sewerage systems, water supply And heating system.

Top frame with wooden beam

Top trim around the perimeter of the house is required. It serves to securely fix the entire structure and increase the overall seismic resistance of the building. Strapping wooden beam, which is laid on top, is also at the same time the basis for the ceiling, either between floors or under the roof.

The upper frame of the walls is made of SIP panels. Photo

Construction of the roof of a SIP house - do-it-yourself roof

Arrangement and construction of the roof is the final stage of installing a set of SIP panels. Your further actions will depend on what type of roofing is included in the house kit.

Roofing a house from sip panels with your own hands. Photo from achfoam.com

In most cases, the roof is built directly from SIP panels. With this approach, the organization of a rafter-transom system is not required. The performance qualities of sandwich panels are quite sufficient for them to withstand all load-bearing loads with a reserve. A roof made of SIP panels is assembled on the same principle as Wall panels, according to the house kit drawing.

You may also be interested in: Return to main SIP Electrical equipment in SIP houses Finishing in houses made from SIP panels Pros and cons of construction from SIP Fire safety Service life of SIP houses Heating in houses made from SIP panels Go to the main site

For more detailed advice on the issue you are interested in, please send us a message.

If you are looking for an opportunity to build a warm home for little money, consider building a house from SIP panels. The cost of a two-story “box” of 10*10 meters without finishing is around 17-20 thousand dollars. In this case, there is no need for additional insulation; you can move into the house immediately after construction (if communications are connected) and you can immediately begin finishing.

What is a SIP panel

The construction of houses from SIP panels began in the second half of the last century in Canada. The technology is simple, the construction of a building requires very little time (from two to three weeks, depending on the complexity of the project), it can only be cheaper, and even then not in all regions.

Houses are built from thermal insulation panels, which themselves have sufficient strength. In English, these panels are called SIP, which is an abbreviation for the following name: StructuralInsulated Panel. This translates as “Structural Thermal Insulated Panel”. It turns out, in theory, in Russian, the name of this material should sound like KTP. In reality, regular transliteration is used (replacing English letters Cyrillic). As a result, the name “SIP panels” is in use.

This material consists of two, between which a layer of expanded polystyrene (foam) is laid. The result is a kind of sandwich (a construction “multi-layer sandwich”). Hence another name - sandwich panels.

When building a house, there are two types of assembly:


In our country, the first option is most popular. Wooden frame gives the structure additional strength. The load-bearing capacity of sandwich panels without a frame is more than enough for the construction of one or two-story private houses. But knowing that the house is built on solid timber is reassuring. This technology has one more advantage - maintainability. If there are problems, you can remove the damaged panel and replace it with a new one, which will frame technology impossible.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any new technology for our country, building a house from SIP panels has its adherents and opponents. Opponents have the most important argument - the unnaturalness of the materials and the possibility of releasing harmful substances. Indeed, these boards consist of foam and OSB. Polystyrene foam is a common material and is only dangerous when it burns. OSB has also been on the market for a long time; it is made from pressed large shavings and wood chips. Resins containing formaldehyde are added as a binder. It is this binder that raises the most questions: formaldehyde is a strong poison and its presence in the atmosphere in large quantities causes poisoning.

Formaldehyde emissions must be controlled by the SES (sanitary and epidemiological station), and only safe building materials must be put on sale. So if you are planning to build a house from SIP panels, carefully choose the manufacturer - the quality of the material depends on his integrity. Panels assembled using German OSB from Egger are recognized as the highest quality and safest. Their formaldehyde emissions are E1 (safe).

Excerpt from GOST R 56309-2014 (date of introduction 2015-07-01): “Depending on the content (emission) of formaldehyde, the boards are manufactured in emission classes E0.5, E1 and E2.”

At the same time, they easily tolerate high humidity, do not absorb water and are not deformed.

SIP panel Egger E1 2800x625x174 (Romania) is the best option for walls. Height - 2800 mm, thickness of polystyrene foam - 150 mm. If you prefer “standard” ceilings with a height of 2.5 meters, then you should purchase Egger E1 2500x1250x174

German Glunz Agepan panels are also good, but few people use them. If we talk about Russian manufacturers, then you should pay attention to the products of the Kalevala company. Only safe and high-quality materials are used in production:

1. OSB-3 Kalevala Russia emission class E1;
2. Glue – TOP-UR (Russia);
3. Expanded polystyrene – PSBS – 25C Knauf (Russia).

Speaking about the advantages of construction from SIP panels, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the technology has been thoroughly developed. Panels are produced for various elements of the house: external walls, partitions, interfloor ceilings, etc.

Why do people build houses from SIP panels? Because such a house has solid advantages:

  • Light weight, which allows you to save on the foundation. Pile or construction is ideal for this type of building.
  • Low heat loss, low heating costs. Expanded polystyrene is an excellent insulation material, and it is sandwiched on both sides OSB sheets. This is what makes a sandwich panel house very warm.
  • Low cost per square meter.
  • Short construction time. box two-story house can be collected in a month.
  • No shrinkage. There may be settlement at the foundation. The structure made from SIP panels has no settlement.
  • Finishing work can begin immediately after the box is assembled.

In general, it is this set of properties that makes people choose a house made from SIP panels. Build like houses permanent residence, and summer cottages for seasonal visits. So, with a limited budget, building a house from SIP panels can be a very good solution.

How to build it yourself

There are two ways to build a house from SIP panels with your own hands:

  • Buy a house kit for a specific project from a company that deals with this, and assemble it yourself. Not all companies agree to this, but many have a supervising installation service. This is when a company specialist supervises your installation.
  • Buy slabs. Trim them under required sizes, purchase timber, all this - on your own. In this case, all responsibility for the quality of construction will fall on you. If you have carpentry skills or have someone to help you with, you can choose this option.

Briefly about what a house kit is. This is a set of ready-made SIP panels, wooden beams of the required size and fasteners for the construction of a specific house. All components are cut at the factory and numbered. When assembling, you use the resulting blocks in a certain order. The process is reminiscent of building a house from children's construction set, only you are assembling a real house.

Building a house from SIP panels when ordering a house kit is like playing construction kit

A house kit is good if everything is done accurately. This is not only about the quality of SIP panels (it must be checked separately), but also about the use dry wood ( chamber drying) , and about cutting accuracy. The edges of the panels must precisely “grab” the beam, the two panels must be joined with an expansion gap of about 3 mm - all this is achieved using precision equipment.

Reference. The expansion gap is the required distance that is left between building materials subject to expansion (dilatation). If the house is being built in a region with a humid climate (for example, Leningrad region), then it is necessary to leave a dilatation gap in mandatory, otherwise the OSB will swell. In dry climates, there is no need for a gap between OSB.

Construction stages: photo report

Construction of a house from SIP panels, like any other, begins with the selection and construction of a foundation. It is considered optimal for light houses pile foundation. This is exactly what is done in most cases when starting the construction of a house using SIP technology. Sometimes it is impossible to install a pile foundation:

  • on hard soils that are too expensive to drill (rocks);
  • on unstable soils with low bearing capacity (peat bogs);
  • in the presence of cavities in the rock mass.

In these cases, they do or (more often USHP - an insulated Swedish stove). They are much more expensive, but more reliable.

Once the foundation has been selected and calculated, its construction can begin.

Making a pile foundation

Since foundations are most often made from screw piles, we will illustrate exactly how they are made. Piles are screwed into the ground manually (if the soil and strength allow) or using special equipment. The height of the heads is 80 cm above ground level, the distance between the piles is no more than 2.5 meters.

The heads are welded to the installed piles, and the strapping beam is attached to them (in this example, 200*200 mm).

Important! The joints of the timber must be located on the heads. When laying the strapping beam, do not forget to lubricate the locks before joining protective composition(bitumen mastic).

There is no support under the joint - you can’t do that!

To protect against rotting and insects, the strapping beams are impregnated with a protective compound. Roofing material was laid in two layers under the timber (on the heads).

This stage takes from 3-4 days to a week. It depends on the complexity of the soil, whether you work with the equipment or turn it yourself. Now you can start laying the floor slabs, but before that you should familiarize yourself with the methods of connecting them.

How to connect SIP panels: basic principle

When connecting panels, a wooden dowel (beam) or a thermal key (a piece of SIP panel of smaller thickness) is inserted between them. As mentioned above, in our country the technology using a frame is more popular, i.e. Dry timber is used as a key. It is this option that we will focus on.

The beam is inserted into the groove and fixed using self-tapping screws and/or nails, which are twisted/hammered through the OSB into the body of the beam. If you have a nail gun, we initially recommend tackling the panels with “yellow” wood screws 40-50 mm long, and then punching through the joints rough nails 50-65 mm long in increments of 10-15 cm.

The following can be used to fasten SIP panels: “yellow” wood screws, galvanized screw nails, galvanized rough nails. Do not use “black” hardened screws - they break off and quickly corrode

There is always a risk that the connection will be leaky, and the entire construction technology of SIP panels is based on the thermos effect, that is, on maximum tightness. Therefore, before assembling this unit (and any other), foam is applied to the side surface of the panel. It fills all the cracks, providing the proper level of heat and moisture insulation.

Note! The picture above shows a dowel made from double timber. Often such recommendations are perceived incorrectly, and in order to save money, unplaned wood is purchased. edged board 50x150x6000 mm natural humidity. Once the board dries, the joint is unlikely to remain sealed.

When making a composite wooden dowel 100*150, in our opinion, it is preferable to use three dry bars with a cross-section of 50*100 mm - in this case the connections overlap (see video below).

If we are talking about wall panels, then it makes sense to insert and secure the dowels in advance.

The foam was applied, the beam was inserted, and secured with self-tapping screws. Foam was applied to the side edge of the second slab, the groove was placed under the protruding part of the beam, an expansion gap of 3 mm was set, and secured with self-tapping screws. The foam that came out of the seams during the installation process is cut off after polymerization.

This technique, with minor modifications, is repeated in any connection of SIP panels. The diagram of this node is presented above.

After cutting the slabs, it becomes necessary to remove polystyrene foam to the required depth. For these purposes, an electric thermal knife (cutter) for foam plastic is used. They come in various designs, but the thermal knife must be equipped with a limiter. Only in this case will you be able to remove polystyrene foam exactly to the required depth. “Overdoing” can lead to the appearance of cold bridges at the junction of the panels.

You can make the cutter yourself, but at the same time Do not forget about safety precautions when working with electric current.

First overlap

The first floor is nothing more than a floor that does not require insulation. As melted, it is assembled from SIP panels with a thickness of 224 mm and a width of 625 mm. With such a width of the slabs, the wooden beams are spaced at intervals of about 60 cm, which is enough to withstand the load.

If you have slabs with a width of 1250 mm, then they need to be sawn lengthwise into two equal parts.

When installing the ceiling, the panels should be laid like bricks in masonry - with the seams mismatching (staggered). This is necessary to ensure that the seams do not warp when humidity increases.

These are the pieces that floor blocks should be cut into when using 1250 mm wide slabs

To protect the bottom OSB board from moisture, each of the boards is coated on one side with the same bitumen mastic. You can use other compositions with similar properties.

Assembly of SIP floor panels for the first floor

When connecting the slabs, a mounting beam is laid between them (diagram in the previous paragraph). The beam is attached at the edges to the frame (with long nails), and the edges of the slabs are attached to it using self-tapping screws.

We cover the side sections of the slabs (all floors) with an edged board of a suitable size. We apply foam to the side surface of the slab using a snake, then we place a board and fasten it through the OSB with self-tapping screws into the end of the board.

A starting (crown) board is laid on top of the sandwich along the perimeter, on which the SIP wall panels will rest. It is laid around the perimeter and in those places where partitions will be installed.

The crown boards are fastened with nails/screws, but to be sure, they were secured through and through with studs to the pile heads. Holes were drilled for the studs. A pin is driven into them and tightened with bolts.

Walling

We continue the construction of a house from SIP panels: we are installing the walls of the first floor. For this work, it is advisable to have two assistants, then the process will go faster and easier.

We place the first panel so that it “fits” onto the crown board

Wall installation begins from one of the corners. When installing, the panel is “slipped” onto the installed starting board with a recess in the lower part (first apply a layer of foam to the board or the end of the sandwich). The panel is placed, aligned vertically, attached to the starting board on both sides with self-tapping screws in increments of 10-15 cm.

On the side surface installed slab foam is applied, another plate is set at an angle of 90°. An embedded board (end block) is pre-attached to its side part, the thickness of which is equal to the depth of the groove. Like the first one, this panel is attached to the strapping starting board.

In addition, we fasten the corner using long self-tapping screws.

As a rule, self-tapping screws with a length of 220 to 280 mm are used

The length of the self-tapping screw must be such that it passes through the slab and the entire thickness of the embedded board. The installation step of this fastener is 40-50 cm.

In window and door openings, for more reliable fastening, you can install metal perforated reinforced corners. The element is optional, but adds rigidity and inspires confidence.

External walls and partitions are immediately erected

The installation of partitions from SIP panels follows the same principle: we attach a crown board and partition blocks to it. They can be the same thickness as for external walls, but thinner ones can be used. The decrease in sound insulation properties is compensated by the interior decoration.

To save money, partitions can be made using frame technology. Then initially only the frame can be installed, and its cladding can be transferred to a later period. It is more convenient to do this when the roof is already installed.

In a house, frame partitions can be made from SIP panels

Interfloor ceiling

To install floor slabs in the grooves of wall panels, boards are installed on foam and self-tapping screws. They create a harness for installing the ceiling.

Next we lay the floor slabs. If the partitions are assembled from SIP panels, their load-bearing capacity is quite high and no additional reinforcement measures are required. If the partitions were assembled using frame technology, we make the upper beams reinforced: they are assembled from three boards glued together. For greater strength, the beams can also be fastened on both sides with self-tapping screws.

Floor slabs made of SIP panels are laid on the finished frame. They should be no more than 625 mm wide and should be laid staggered (with the seams mismatched). Since the panels are narrow, there is a lot of wooden beams in the ceiling. Due to this, such a floor can withstand loads in places where there are no floor beams.

We fasten the laid slabs to the framing beam with self-tapping screws or nails. The edges of the OSB are at the top and bottom to each intermediate beam. After securing the installation of the ceiling, we close the open side sections along the perimeter of the building according to the same principle: foam + edged board. For greater rigidity, in those places where the floor beams pass, we fasten the floor panels with long self-tapping screws (220 mm) all the way through.

This stage after assembling the first floor does not seem difficult. Everything is the same, only the work is at height, tightening the sandwich panels takes longer and is more difficult than installing them.

Second floor walls

The second floor in this project is , so the wall panels are low. We also install partitions at the same time as the external walls. Before installing the roof, an embedded beam is installed in the upper open groove; roofing SIP panels will be attached to it.

Standard panels will have to be cut to fit the gables, since the shape is non-standard. The installation and connection of the wall panels themselves on the second floor is no different.

Roof made of SIP panels

Special sandwich panels are used for the roof. Under them, the ends of the slabs are cut at a certain angle, which is determined by the angle of inclination of the roof slope. Here, just as with flooring, you can get by with a minimum of beams, because each connection has its own beam. Therefore, the rafter system is not assembled.

For a roof made of SIP panels, beams need a minimum

Skate decoration

The roof of a small to medium sized house is made of SIP panels and usually has a central ridge beam. Here two planes of the roof converge. This node can be designed in two ways (in the pictures below). The first one is symmetrical. The sandwich panels are cut at an angle, and the top of the ridge beam is cut at the same angle. Two planes are fastened with long self-tapping screws through the panel to the beam on both sides. The fastener installation step is 30-40 cm.

IN this method There is no usual timber between the two slabs; they are connected only by foam. After the foam has polymerized, the excess is cut off and the seam is processed waterproof sealant, after which a protective strip is put on the skate - made of metal, plastic, etc. - depends on the type of roofing chosen.

There is another way to join roofing SIP panels on the ridge. The second method does not require cutting the slabs at an angle, but one part of the panels must be longer (by the thickness of the roofing slab). The beam is still cut at an angle, the slabs are joined at right angles, and fastened through and through with long self-tapping screws to the beam.

This connection uses embedded end bars. They are installed as usual - using mounting foam and self-tapping screws. To block the access of moisture to the under-roof space, the junction of the two panels is also additionally coated with a waterproof sealant.

There is an option for installing a roof with or without SIP panels central beam. There are roofing options with two load-bearing beams, which are located off-center. These can be either specially laid floor beams, or partitions assembled from SIP panels or using frame technology. In the second case, it is better to strengthen the beams (make them prefabricated with glue and nails).

The most difficult thing in this unit is to cut the embedded beams at the right angle. This can be done on the ground, which greatly simplifies the task. The panels are fastened through the slab with long self-tapping screws to the floor beams or mortgages in the partitions. Also, two planes are fastened together at the junction point - on opposite sides with long self-tapping screws.

Roof and wall panel connections

For laying SIP roofing slabs, wall slabs are cut at the required angle. The inner part of the OSB is higher than the outer part. The foam plastic is “cut” at the same angle, and the edges of the embedded beam are trimmed. It is this part that is the most difficult if you did not buy a house kit, but are building a house from SIP panels using standard panels, cutting them to the required dimensions with your own hands.

How to connect wall and roof SIP panels

If you have the appropriate equipment, cutting them at an angle is not a problem. The problem is cutting the foam between the OSB boards to the required depth. You can select the core using a thermal knife, and then remove the residue cleanly mechanically. Most likely, the cut will still not be smooth, so you will have to add more foam to fill the unevenness.

In the pictures, the roof overhang is also made of slabs with insulation. This is easier to implement, but it is an unreasonable expense. To save money, the length of the SIP panel is taken up to the intersection with the walls, and then only the timber goes (as in the photo). In this case, the beam is made composite: one part is longer by the amount of the overhang, the second is shorter and ends where the wall ends.

Features of joining roofing slabs

The connection of two roofing slabs occurs in the same way as others: timber, foam, self-tapping screws. But since precipitation is possible here, it is advisable to seal all seams.

To improve the tightness, all seams on the roof are additionally coated with waterproof sealant. First it is cut hardened foam in the plane with the roof, then sealant is applied. After filing the overhangs, we can consider that the construction of a house made of SIP panels is completed. Install windows/doors, connect communications and the home is already suitable for habitation. Finishing can be done immediately after installing the box.

Mice and other troubles

To save our readers from unnecessary headaches, we decided to talk about the mistakes made during the construction of one residential building. First of all, the material is intended for those who hire contractors for construction. However, it will also be useful for those who build a house on their own.

The facility was built under the “Rural House” program, and local would-be builders acted as the contractor. Unfortunately, the future residents did not pay due attention to the quality of the work. The result is natural - a large number of significant "jambs".

Brief information about the house:

  • Commissioning date: 2008
  • Number of floors: 2
  • Foundation type: strip
  • Technology: frameless
  • Panel sizes: 2740x1220x224 (floors), 2740x1220x174 (walls), 2740x1220x145 (dowel for connecting wall panels)

Problems appeared quite quickly and were associated with the most important part of any structure - the foundation. Strip foundation was filled with low quality concrete, this led to the fact that when moisture entered, it began to crumble.

In extreme cold (below -30°C), another “jamb” was discovered - part of the plastic floor plinth in the kitchen froze.

It was decided to remove the bottom panels of the vinyl siding, remove the cold bridges where the wall slabs adjoin the first floor ceiling, and sheathe the foundation with corrugated sheets to look like stone.

After dismantling the lower siding panels, signs of field mice appeared.

During construction, the ends of the floor were not covered with boards. Pieces of plywood are installed, with large distances between them. Also note that the roofing felt does not start from the timber, but from the floor level

A brief explanation of roofing felt. At the time of construction of the house, in a specific locality Haven't heard of vapor permeable membranes. The contractor was going to lay on the walls plastic film. The customer opposed this, and as a result, roofing felt was used.

It is clearly visible that the mice did not waste any time...

As a result, the owner of the house had to mitigate the consequences using his modest construction experience.

Related errors:

  • The lower part of the first floor ceiling has not been treated with bitumen mastic.
  • SIP panels with a width of 1220 mm were laid on the floors of the first and second floors (they had to be cut in half lengthwise).
  • Raw wood was used.
  • The panel for making thermal keys is thinner than the polystyrene foam layer.
  • The corners of the house are not tightened with long screws.
  • Self-tapping screws are exclusively black.

There were other mistakes, but we do not talk about them, as they do not directly relate to the technology of constructing SIP houses.

Alas, the case discussed above is not the most severe - the fatal option is discussed in the video below.

The conclusion is very simple: you should not blindly trust the customer. All stages of construction must be supervised personally, or seek help knowledgeable person from the outside.

If the construction is carried out by contractors, then the quality of their work can be assessed already at the stage of acceptance of the first floor slab.

Construction from sip panels (SIP) can be considered the fastest that currently exists in this market. It’s quite possible to build a one-story cottage in a week or a week and a half. The technology came to us from Canada. It is also extremely popular now in European countries.

Buildings made from sip panels are very warm and quite reliable. In our conditions, the material is ideal for the construction of country cottages and country houses. In this regard, many who want to become owners of such temporary or permanent housing are interested in how to build a house from sip panels with their own hands in record time due to technology.

What are sip panels?

Sip panel is a three-layer building material. The inner part is a thick layer of polystyrene foam, which acts as an insulating and insulating material. On both sides, 2 layers of chipboard OSB are attached to it. It is made from wood chips, multi-directional and glued under pressure.

Expanded polystyrene provides excellent sound and heat insulation. OSB boards and high-quality glue, produced using special technology, reliably fix the insulating material. During construction, sip panels are connected to each other with polyurethane foam, and wooden beams give rigidity to all structural components.

Advantages of this building material:

1. Durability - 100 years or more.
2. Fast construction using the joining method of SIP panels.
3. You can build in any season, since there are no solutions that require special conditions for hardening.
4. Very simple roof design.
5. Thanks to the small thickness of the panels, it increases effective area inside the house.
6. A building built using this technology is very light and does not shrink.
7. Excellent thermal insulation, allowing you to save energy even during the heating season.
8. Easy installation of doorways.
9. The perfectly smooth and even surface of the panels allows you to use any finishing finish without first leveling the walls.
10. Expanded polystyrene and OSB boards do not rot; Rodents do not live in them.
11. The material is absolutely clean and environmentally safe.
12. Construction from it is quite simple and does not require heavy equipment to be involved in the process. construction equipment(cranes, etc.).
13. Low prices SIP panels make construction with them the most cost-effective option.

Flaws:

1. The panels do not allow water vapor to pass through, so buildings made from them need high-quality ventilation.
2. The material cannot boast of high fire resistance. In this regard, the issue of electrical wiring insulation needs to be given Special attention. It is recommended to install a fire alarm.
3. The material is not resistant to moisture, so the foundation must be made wide enough to protect the structure from dampness.
4. The technology for constructing houses from sip panels does not allow for much diversification of standard projects.

Construction from sip panels (video)

You should always start with design. And although you cannot expect much variety in this matter, it is important to correctly calculate the size of the rooms, the placement of communications, etc. The complete assembly of the building is shown in the video.

A building made from sip panels is very light weight and does not require a powerful foundation. Under one or two-storey house you can build a strip or pile-screw. During the construction of the foundation, it is very important to properly waterproof it. To do this, you will need bitumen mastic and 2 layers of roofing material, the sheets of which must be laid overlapping.

Then you can begin laying the subfloor, which we also build from the same SIP panels (video). The photo shows how the floor is attached to the foundation. The panels are connected to each other and immediately fixed using polyurethane sealant and self-tapping screws.

Building walls (video)

You can see what the assembly of building walls from SIP panels looks like in the video.

It is assembled literally like a large construction set. First, the lower trim is installed. As is the case with many modern building materials, construction from sip panels begins from the corners of the house. Subsequent ones are attached to the corner panels, butt to joint, in both directions, up to the next corners. A wooden beam is laid between the panels, fixed with sealant and self-tapping screws.

To build any building, you must use a building level. IN in this case This is also true, despite the fact that the sip panels are perfectly smooth. Using a level will help prevent walls from deviating from the ideal vertical. The ends of the walls and the upper sections are covered with sealant, after which we begin to make the upper trim.

To create floors between floors, the same sip panels are used. They have sufficient strength for this and can withstand very significant weight (furniture, the residents themselves, etc.). After installing the floors, we continue to build walls - now on the second floor. The ceilings are reinforced with wooden beams.

Door/window openings are made very simply: they can simply be cut using a regular hacksaw. The material lends itself perfectly to processing and requires almost no effort during this process. All this can be done with your own hands.

How to build a roof

The technology for constructing a roof on such a building is extremely simple. To build it, we again use the same SIP panels. The slabs are mounted according to the same principle as walls and interfloor ceilings. It is not necessary to use rafters. How the roof and wall panels are connected is shown in diagrams 1 and 2.

Please note that a support column is installed in the center. For this you can use a 50x70 mm beam. All fastening of roofing elements is carried out using self-tapping screws, sealant and connecting bars. Once the roof is assembled, you can immediately begin the finishing coat. The roof can be covered with almost any material (metal tiles, corrugated sheets, soft tiles, etc.). The choice of material depends on the preferences and financial capabilities of the home owner.

Finishing

The outside of the building can be clad plastic lining, siding and any similar material that will protect the walls from moisture. The interior decoration is even simpler. Since the walls made of sip panels are absolutely flat, there is no need to install any leveling frame.

The walls inside the building can be covered with wallpaper, plastered, even tiled or mosaiced (bathroom, kitchen, etc.). Almost any floor covering will also work. You can lay laminate, linoleum, floorboards and even parquet on the floor if you so desire. Even including all the finishing touches, the construction of a 3-4-room mansion from sip panels in the worst weather can take a maximum of a month and a half.

The technology is simple and low-cost; the cost of all materials is also minimal. Everything is done simply and very quickly. If you need the most inexpensive country house with excellent heat and sound insulation, construction from sip panels is just the thing. In the next video we posted a review from the owner of such a house. It will help to better understand what such a structure is like.

Building a house from SIP panels with your own hands.

Here we give a summary of tips for building houses from general plan sip panels:

Choosing a foundation

In the vast majority of cases, two types of foundations - on screw piles and shallow strip foundations - can completely solve the problem of reliable support Canadian home in outskirts of Moscow.

If done under light canadian house concrete pile (below the frost depth) foundation on heaving soil, it is better using TISE technology (with widening of the lower part of the piles) and with high grillage (with a gap between the grillage and the ground).

This is correct in theory. In practice, in the Moscow region, bored piles are often made under SIP houses without widening, and often the grillage is supported on the ground (low grillage).

Problems do happen, but in most cases, lightweight houses on such foundations stand without problems. The fact is that a powerful reinforced concrete grillage not only prevents uneven subsidence of the piles under the weight of the house, but also compensates for the uneven pushing out of the piles by the lateral forces of frost heaving. In essence, we are dealing with a “floating” foundation of an unreasonably expensive and complex design.

Why are such foundations made? The answer is simple: “Customers love it.”

Clients like a lot of things that are harmful. For example, it is beautiful when the foam protruding from the joints of SIP panels is neatly cut off.

But this cannot be done outside. Until the exterior finishing of the house begins, the polyurethane foam is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation from the sun. Pruning only speeds up this process.

For a house made of SIP panels, the best pile foundation is screw. The blade of the screw pile performs the same function as the widening of the lower part columnar foundation, made using TISE technology: they reduce the pressure of the loaded pile on the ground and prevent it from being pulled out by the forces of frost heaving of the soil.

Thus, screw pile, working as an anchor, provides a fixed point of support if the piles are screwed below the freezing depth into the load-bearing (!) soil..

Due to the increased rigidity of SIP structures, they are less sensitive to seasonal ground movements. For small country houses, the most inexpensive option is suitable - a foundation on posts.

As a rule, these are small concrete blocks, installed on a sand bedding (necessarily at the corners of the house, the joints of load-bearing walls and several intermediate ones).

Season for construction

Construction using Canadian technology is possible at any time of the year. A great time for construction is winter. Due to rain, construction may take a little longer. Measures must be taken to prevent dirt from entering the construction site.

There may be problems with access to the site. In terms of weather, summer is the most favorable season for DIY construction. But summer has its own difficulties due to the growing excitement in the construction market, with quite understandable consequences.

What to build from SIP panels

Important question: What structural elements of a house should be assembled from SIP? External walls are always assembled from SIP panels. The walls turn out surprisingly warm and smooth.

Domestic load-bearing walls It is also advisable to assemble it from SIP panels. The issue of partitions is secondary. Partitions can be assembled from anything and at the stage finishing. Most often, partitions are assembled from SIP panels with a thickness of 124 mm.

The use of SIP panels for the assembly of zero and attic floors or roofs is justified by their high thermal insulation ability.

SIP flooring does not require a subfloor. Finishing floor coverings(laminate, linoleum, carpet, etc.) are laid directly on the SIP floor.

Use SIP for assembly interfloor overlap is possible, but not entirely advisable due to low performance in relation to impact noise.

Making a complex roof from SIP panels is problematic. It is possible to assemble a roof of any complexity from SIP, but a reasonable question arises - why, if a proven classic rafter system with insulation is simpler?

Which timber is suitable for joining SIP panels

It is not recommended to use beams made from boards assembled at a construction site for joining SIP panels due to the risk of cracks forming. And if you can find a massive wooden beam of the required cross-section in the markets, it is only raw.

This requires clarification. Concepts dry or raw lumber (timber, boards, etc.) are used only at the household level. In fact, all lumber contains moisture. Excessively damp wood has many disadvantages, one of which is shrinkage (change in linear dimensions).

Moisture in wood is present in 2 forms - free (capillary), filling cell cavities and intercellular space (up to 70%), and bound (hygroscopic), located in cell membranes (about 30%).

Removal free removal of moisture (often called plant sap) occurs quite quickly and easily during atmospheric drying. Moreover without change linear dimensions and volume of wood. Only its density decreases. Very often, a board from which a significant part has been removed is called “dry.” free moisture.

The problem is that wood shrinks later, namely through evaporation. related moisture! It is at this stage that the linear dimensions wooden lumber.

During forced chamber drying, dry-looking coniferous lumber shrinks up to 12% in the transverse direction to the fibers!

Due to the anisotropic structure of wood, removal related moisture is accompanied by cracking and warping. Therefore, truly dry lumber can be distinguished from raw lumber without a moisture meter. presence of cracks.

To remove most of the bound moisture, forced (chamber) drying is necessary. Therefore dry edged There is no lumber on the markets. All that is sold is a cheese cutter - freshly sawn wood, which must be dried in a chamber.

Kiln-dried lumber is expensive. In addition, after drying to the required moisture content, edged lumber loses its GOST dimensions.

Planing (sizing) eats up a few more millimeters of thickness and width, which ultimately makes such lumber unsuitable for joining SIP panels with polystyrene foam thicknesses of 100 mm, 150 mm and 200 mm.

Massive timber with a thickness of 100x150 mm and 100x200 mm of chamber drying is almost impossible to find. Solid timber requires particularly mild drying conditions, i.e. special equipment.

Conventional drying chambers are designed for drying boards up to 50 mm thick for further planing into moldings or for the production of laminated veneer lumber, I-beams, furniture panels, etc.

An acceptable alternative to massive timber rectangular section for joining 174 or 224 mm SIPs in floors and roofs is not available today. Wooden I-beams (I-Joist, etc.) with a height of 200 mm are rather weak for this purpose.

A massive rectangular beam of 100x200mm can replace a 300mm I-beam in terms of rigidity and strength, but you can’t fit it into a 224mm SIP panel.

LVL and laminated timber are expensive. For example, the retail price of laminated timber 100x200 mm is 650 rubles. per m.p. (May 2013). This is more than 30 thousand rubles. per m3.

Floors made of SIP panels

Floors and roofs are places where insulated classic beam (rafter) structures compete with SIP structures in terms of price, manufacturability and other parameters. If technical details You are of little interest, go straight to the next point.

Often, especially in small buildings, the device of zero overlap and SIP roofs is the most optimal solution. But for large spans, traditional floors on wooden beams may be better than SIP floors.

It's not just a matter of price. We wrote about the problem of connecting beams in floors and roofs above in the previous paragraph. There are other reasons to take into account when making your decision:

SIP panel by its design it is a wall panel and is designed to bear large longitudinal loads. As a ceiling, the SIP panel does not have any special advantages, although it has good bending strength.

The ground floor and interfloor floors of a house must not only withstand certain loads, but also be sufficiently rigid (not bend too much). The floor should not “walk” under your feet. It is easier to assemble a floor of the required rigidity from beams of a suitable cross-section.

SIP floor panels are often made narrower (usually twice as large - 625 mm). Joining the panels on floor beams. This means that the main load-bearing element of the SIP panel floor is still the same wooden beam. The rigidity of a beam is determined not so much by its cross-sectional area as by its height and shape. And 200 mm, which is dictated by the “slab” panel, is good for spans of up to 4 meters.

If the spans are longer than the length of the SIP panel, then the strength of the floor depends on the beams (at the transverse joints of the panels, the entire load falls on the beams)! For this reason, for spans of more than 5 meters, it is better not to make SIP floors - the pitch of 625 mm of beams with a height of 200 mm is too large (according to SNiP, the permissible span for a beam of 200x100 mm with a pitch of 625 mm is less than 5 m).

If floor beams are installed with a pitch of 625 mm, as in a SIP floor, then OSB-3 slabs sewn onto the beams at the top and bottom and without glued polystyrene foam will work like shelves on an I-beam! OSB-3 slabs for covering floor beams, unlike SIP, do not need to be cut into strips 625 mm wide. It will take half as many self-tapping screws for installation (saving effort and time).

The ceiling must have the same thickness everywhere, but the spans it covers are most often different. Beams can be laid out in different directions and at different pitches, thereby optimizing material consumption. Usually above the living room are the most large spans. There it is advisable to make the ceiling stiffer by reducing the pitch of the beams and (or) increasing their cross-sectional area.

When making floors from SIP, this possibility will most often not be available. The overlap will turn out to be weak in some places, and vice versa in others. Cover the spans above the bathroom, hallway, etc. beams 200x100 mm with a pitch of 625 mm - this is luxury.

Features of construction from SIP panels

  1. If the structure is subject to a large lateral load, then the SIP joints should rest on the support. It is not advisable to embed a support inside the panel under the sheathing. In this situation, SIP does not work as a monolithic structure! Forces arise to separate the skin from the polystyrene foam. If you jump onto a SIP floor between the joint beams, the large local lateral load can tear the sheathing away from the EPS.
  2. Moreover, OSB-3 has low bending rigidity in the transverse direction. Therefore, OSB-3 is laid as a floor covering or continuous sheathing across beams (rafters), and not along, as it turns out in SIP structures of floors and roofs. Therefore, it is undesirable to use SIP with thin sheathing of 9-10 mm for the installation of floors.
  3. The interfloor ceiling must be massive in order to provide good protection from impact noise. Only massive beams can provide this.
  4. There is no need to expect that it will not rain heavily when assembling the house. Until the roofing is completed, puddles form on the SIP flooring, which, if not removed, can only evaporate, since all joints are sealed. Therefore, you should prepare in advance to eliminate the consequences of precipitation. However, not everything is so scary: OSB-3 boards resist moisture well, and a short stay in water does not have a significant effect on them. Wooden floors on beams with insulation, flooring and lining underneath can also be assembled in advance in the form of ready-made elements. But this is usually not done due to possible precipitation.
  5. It is not very rational to assemble a SIP roof under a roof that does not require continuous sheathing.
  6. In beam floors, providing high thermal protection (noise insulation) is not a problem. The height of the section of the floor beam is determined by the calculation of the floor for rigidity and is usually at least 200 mm. It is incomparably easier to lay insulation between horizontal beams than in a wall frame. There are no problems with shrinkage of insulation in floors. Therefore, beam floors and rafter roofs are a serious alternative to SIP structures.
  7. A few words about the features of wooden frame (beam) structures. Not everything is perfect here either. Wood is a living material. This is his advantage and disadvantage at the same time. The wood smells pleasant and is pleasant to touch. But whole pieces wood is prone to deformation. The tree is afraid of drought and dampness. It is prone to drying out and cracking. Due to the anisotropic structure of wood, the deformation of lumber always occurs unevenly: individual beams noticeably bend and twist. This leads to deformation of the frame structure. Forced drying of wood in chambers reduces this disadvantage of wood. Another effective solution is the use of laminated lumber. Example - laminated veneer lumber, wooden I-beams with a wall made of OSB-3 (I-beam) or LVL timber(resembles plywood). The disadvantage of wooden I-beams (I-beam or Joist) is their low weight. For interfloor coverings, it is preferable to use massive beams.
  8. When constructing beam floors and frame partitions from ordinary lumber, you need to be prepared for the fact that some of the beams may “come out” of the plane (especially if they are tightened with flooring or sheathing partitions). It will take a plane and patience. When installing SIP floors, this problem does not arise.
  9. Fewer problems using SIP panels to bridge between top floor and an attic, if the latter will not be used as an attic. Often the attic floor is assembled from SIP wall panels.
  10. A rafter roof for a Canadian house is always done in the case of a “cold” attic. If there is a warm room directly under the roof of a Canadian house (attic, second light), then SIP panels are often used to install the roof. With this construction we immediately obtain warm roof, and ready continuous sheathing For soft tiles.
  11. Conventional wall panels with a thickness of 174 mm are often suitable for roof construction. They are quite warm and durable. Not complicated Constructive decisions(purlins resting on gables and interior walls attics) make it possible to ensure sufficient strength of the roof made of SIP wall panels even with large slopes. In particular, SIP wall panels can be installed on the rafter system:
  12. Laying soft tiles and other roofing materials directly on a SIP panel without a ventilation duct (gap) is contrary to general principles roofing “pie” devices. Bituminous shingles block the escape of steam from the SIP structure to the outside. There is information on the Internet about the unpleasant consequences of such a design decision.

The photo shows that the main damage to the SIP sheathing occurred in the area of ​​the panel joints. The most likely reason is the penetration of steam under the waterproofing substrate of soft tiles from the attic through poor-quality joints of SIP panels. When installing soft roof directly on the SIP surface it is necessary to vapor barrier the joints SIP panels on the premises side. You can use adhesive tape:

This rule should also be followed when decorating external walls with SIP. If something that impedes the escape of steam is mounted directly on the SIP sheathing without a ventilation gap, the joints of the SIP panels on the room side should be well vapor-insulated. As they say in the birthplace of SIP technology, "That's why foam plus tape makes so much sense to us."

For the same reason, it is undesirable to vapor barrier SIP structures of the zero (lower) floor from below from the underground side. This is often done with bitumen mastics because “customers like it.” This does not increase the service life of the ceiling. It is necessary to take care of good ventilation of the underground by installing a sufficient number of vents in the basement!

If the ventilation of the underground is poor, bitumen mastic will hide from view problems with OSB-3 sheathing that may occur due to constant moisture, which will not allow taking the necessary measures to eliminate the causes in a timely manner. The same thing can happen as with OSB-3 under a bitumen roof in the photo above.

For external protection of enclosing structures from moisture, special vapor-permeable membranes (wind protection) are used, which protect the structure from precipitation and wind, but do not prevent steam from escaping from the structure to the outside.

About vapor barrier

It doesn't have to be film. Many Decoration Materials can perform the function of vapor barrier of the building envelope.

For example, a 12 mm thick OSB-3 board prevents the diffusion of water vapor as a vapor barrier (Sd > 2 m according to DIN 52615), so SIP panels do not need a vapor barrier.

Other examples are elastic plaster, laminate on a synthetic backing, etc. Linoleum will protect the lower floor from both steam and moisture.

The basic rule for constructing multilayer enclosing structures is that the vapor permeability of the wall should increase from the inner surface (warm room) to the outer surface (street). If you do the opposite, give steam from a warm room an easy entry and make it difficult to exit, then it will remain in the enclosing structure, wetting and destroying the building material.

  • Assemble external and load-bearing walls from SIP panels
  • interior partitions if desired (frame partitions can also be installed at the finishing stage)
  • assemble the interfloor ceiling from beams
  • make the zero (bottom) overlap from SIP with a thickness of 224 mm - you won’t regret it!
  • If possible, assemble a simple roof over the attic from SIP; in other cases, make a rafter roof
  • The attic floor can be made of SIP, or it can be built on beams.

If subsequently, at some point in the joints of SIP panels, a space unfilled with foam is discovered, there is no need to panic. The defect can be easily eliminated at any time. It is enough to make a small hole in the SIP panel sheathing and fill the voids with polyurethane foam.

If the exterior decoration of the house is postponed, it is better to hide the external walls of the SIP house from the effects of ultraviolet radiation and slanting rains. Polyurethane foam unprotected from sunlight quickly deteriorates, wood dries out and cracks (especially on the sunny side). Because of this, during heavy slanting rain, moisture can penetrate into structures.

To prevent this from happening, you need to seal the resulting gaps with mounting material. Increased attention should be paid to protecting the joints of walls and ceilings from rain. The simplest and inexpensive way- this is to sheathe the outside of the walls with a membrane (wind protection) that does not allow moisture to enter the walls, but allows steam to escape outside.

A few notes on the operation of a “freshly built” SIP house. For various reasons, the structure of a home may contain excess moisture. Most often it is bad weather. It is rarely possible to assemble a house without rain.

Excess moisture from the structure enters the air, so in the initial stages of operation of the house it is possible high humidity indoor air. During this period, increased attention to ventilation of the house is necessary.

Insufficient ventilation can lead to problems, since humidity and heat are a fertile environment for blackness and even mold to appear on the surface of wood. Ventilation and treatment of problem areas with a protective composition effectively eliminates adverse effects. But it is better not to allow them.

You need to be especially careful during the cold season. Despite the cold, at first the windows in all rooms should be kept slightly open. Turning on the heating in a clogged room can cause the air humidity to rise so that the dew point is on the surface of the walls.

Unfavorable conditions for wooden structures may occur when heating only parts of the rooms. Water vapor from warm rooms falls into cold rooms and condenses on the walls there. Dampness forms with all the ensuing consequences.

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