Greenhouse made from window frames for teapots. Do-it-yourself greenhouse from window frames: materials, design, stages of work, drawings, video instructions

October 17, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

In this article I will tell you how to build a greenhouse from window frames. This task is quite labor-intensive, especially if we want to get not a temporary greenhouse, but a permanent structure, but the result is worth it. Reuse using old frames makes it possible to significantly save on greenhouse glazing, so it’s definitely worth the tinkering.

Such structures can be erected according to the most different schemes, so here I will describe general principles buildings tested in practice. Having figured out what's what, you can make adjustments to the algorithm I proposed in accordance with your wishes for the final result.

Preparatory work

Stage 1. Foundation

A greenhouse from window frames is assembled according to the principle of a designer, and the most difficult moment here will be finding the frames themselves. As a rule, construction begins after overhaul country house when several windows appear after replacement.

After all, it’s a shame to throw it away, but I want to attach it to some business. But, alas, for a fairly large structure this quantity is not enough, so you have to go to your neighbors and beg, barter or buy unnecessary windows.

Usually for the construction of structures closed ground standard ones are used wooden structures, and it is them that I will talk about in the article. It is also possible to build greenhouses and greenhouses from PVC windows, but this is quite an expensive pleasure, and therefore this layout option is practically not found.

Be that as it may, let’s assume that we have the required number of glazed frames. Now we have to somehow install them on the soil.

And here we need to lay at least some foundation: without a foundation, only a very small greenhouse can be built, since a capital structure will inevitably sag under its own weight.

There are several options for arranging the base for a greenhouse made of frames, and I will describe them in the table below:

Material	Peculiarities
Tree	The easiest way to give the greenhouse the required shape and evenly distribute the load on the soil is to install it on a base made of wooden beams. A frame made of thick, mastic-impregnated timber is laid on the surface or slightly recessed, and a frame for glazing is formed on it. The performance properties of such a base are satisfactory, but over time, even wood treated with a moisture-proofing compound loses its strength. So the replacement of beams (and therefore the complete reconstruction of the greenhouse) must be carried out at least once every 5 - 7 years.
Brick	A columnar or strip brick base is a good option in terms of strength and durability. Brickwork, laid according to all the rules, can withstand significant loads, in addition, it also serves as additional thermal insulation in the soil layer of the greenhouse. The downside is high price high-quality building stone - however, in order to save money, you can also use used bricks.
Concrete	Tape concrete foundation or a columnar structure made of concrete blocks is an ideal foundation for a permanent greenhouse. A concrete strip or blocks reinforced with steel bars can withstand significant loads, while waterproofing underground parts roofing felt or mastic effectively protects concrete from destruction under the influence of moisture. The disadvantages of this solution include the significant labor intensity of the arrangement and serious financial costs.

Having decided to make such a greenhouse with my own hands, I settled on a combined option:

First, a layer was removed from the area fertile soil to a depth of about 30 cm. I folded the soil separately and then used it to form beds.
On the leveled area, I marked the foundation of the future greenhouse and dug trenches 50 cm deep and 40 cm wide.
Sand was poured into a 10 cm layer at the bottom of each trench and the cushion was carefully compacted.
I installed formwork from old boards, lined it with thick polyethylene and poured strip base made of concrete. Instead of reinforcement with a steel bar, I added broken stone to the solution.
After the initial polymerization of the concrete, the formwork was removed and the foundation was covered with polyethylene to prevent drying out.

After 25 days (normally you need to wait 28 - 30 days, but I almost couldn’t wait), I removed the polyethylene and mounted it on concrete base strapping made of timber with a cross-section of 150 mm. I placed two layers of roofing felt under the timber for waterproofing.
At the corners I connected the beams into half a tree and secured them to the concrete with anchors. Sami wooden parts treated with a moisture-proofing compound.

Naturally, this scheme is not the only possible one. Moreover, it is quite labor-intensive, so for simpler greenhouses you can use either only timber frames or only concrete tape.

Stage 2. Frame installation

A homemade greenhouse made from window frames is usually assembled on a frame. It consists of an upper and lower frame connected by vertical posts at the corners.

If the walls of the greenhouse are of considerable length (4 m or more), it is worth strengthening the frame with additional vertical supports.

In my case, the role of the bottom frame was a beam laid on a concrete foundation. On the sides I lined it with boards so that they protrude above the beam by at least 100 mm.

At the corners I installed racks made of timber with a section of 50x50 mm. I fixed the supports with self-tapping screws, pulling them to the boards of the lower frame.
I made the top trim from the same timber, securing it to supports.

I needed a small greenhouse, so I did not install additional supports and reinforcing crossbars. If you need a large structure, then you should draw all the necessary drawings and see where it will be possible to strengthen the structure with racks, struts, etc.

Stage 3. Roofing

Much more often the roof is covered either cellular polycarbonate, or plastic film - so the load on rafter system will be significantly lower.

It was the last option that I chose:

I cut rafters from a 100x25 mm board. At the bottom of each rafter leg I made a selection for the top trim.
I connected the rafters in pairs, and then fastened them to the ridge beam.
I attached a frame for an opening window to the rafters.
With the help of two helpers, the resulting roof frame was lifted onto the frame of the greenhouse, installed on the top frame and secured to the rafters with metal overhead plates.

I covered the top of the roof with a light-stabilized film (both slopes and gables), leaving only the opening for the window open.

The disadvantage of a woven roof is obvious: the film is not mechanically durable, and it is almost guaranteed that it will have to be replaced in two to three years.

On the other hand, the costs of arranging the roof will be minimal, and the lower (compared to glass or polycarbonate) transparency of polyethylene is compensated by additional lighting penetrating through the walls from the window frames.

Greenhouse assembly

Stage 4. Installation of frames

Now our construction is approaching its final stages: we need to install window frames, hang doors and vents, and also furnish the room from the inside.

Let's start the description with the installation of frames:

Old window frames must be prepared before installation on the frame. This preparation consists of dismantling hinges and locking elements, eliminating the most obvious damage, replacing broken glass, etc.

It is worth replacing the glass after installation is completed: this way there is less risk of breaking a new window during installation.

We begin to mount the products from the corner. We place the first window near the vertical support on the bottom one, align it and fix it to the frame using metal plates.
We install the following structures with minimal gaps, connecting them with steel plates on self-tapping screws.

If the greenhouse (what if you are so lucky!) is assembled from plastic windows, then it is best to join individual structures using a balcony connector. It is inexpensive, attaches simply (the protrusions snap into the grooves of adjacent frames), but it provides a very strong fixation.
After installing all the frames, fill the gaps between them with foam.
From the outside, fill each crack with a thin wooden plank– it will not only help minimize heat loss, but also serve as an additional stiffener.

Everything is clear with the first row of frames, but the height of the structure will be no more than 1400 - 1600 mm. If you want to make the greenhouse higher, then it is best to cover the distance between the upper edge of the row of installed frames and the top trim with film.

I would not install a second row of frames (even if laying them on their sides) - the base becomes too unstable.

Stage 5. Doors and vents

It is not enough to build a greenhouse - you need to equip it in such a way as to provide an optimal microclimate for the plants. And if in terms of heat everything depends on the tightness of the housing, then you need to think about ventilation separately.

Door to ensure inflow fresh air plays virtually no role in the greenhouse premises. That is why I use the simplest design on a wooden frame covered with several layers of polyethylene. I fix it on regular hinges and equip it with a simple lock that holds door leaf in a closed state.

It is much more important that the greenhouse has efficiently functioning vents. It would seem that the answer to the question of how to make a window in a greenhouse is extremely simple - take and use any of the windows on the frames that now make up the walls.

But the fact is that such windows will have to be opened and closed independently, depending on the temperature inside the greenhouse - and this is quite troublesome, and there is always a risk of missing the right moment.

An automatic window that opens and closes depending on the temperature does not have these disadvantages. The easiest way is to equip it with a special hydraulic cylinder, but the price of such a device may seem too high to many.

Therefore, in this section I will tell you how to make a structure with similar functionality with your own hands from improvised means:

I take a ready-made small sash or make it from profiled timber. I install axial hinges on the frame - so that the sash rotates around a horizontal axis, and in a vertical (or inclined, if we are making a structure on one of the roof slopes) position it is completely closed.
I attach the window to the bottom crossbar from the outside wooden block– it will act as a load for automatic closing.
I fill the jar with liquid (I use antifreeze, but you can also use water) about 40% and seal it tightly. I install a thin tube into the lid.
I securely secure the container with antifreeze and pipe under the ridge of the greenhouse.
I also close the second jar (smaller volume) with a lid with a tube. I make a hole with a diameter of 3 mm in the lid for air access. I fill the jar with antifreeze so that the bottom edge of the tube is immersed by about 10-12 mm.
I drive a long nail into the top crossbar of the opening window frame, from which I securely hang a small can.
I connect both containers with a flexible hose.

Self-opening windows in a greenhouse work according to the following scheme:

As the temperature rises, the liquid from the upper container will evaporate and flow through the hose into the lower container. Besides. Increased pressure will play a role when antifreeze expands.
Due to this, the weight acting on the upper crossbar of the window will increase, and the window will open, letting in fresh air.
As the temperature decreases, there will be reverse process: the liquid will be drawn into the upper (sealed) container, and the window will close under its own weight.

Before making such a design the basis of the entire ventilation system, it must be configured by selecting the optimal volumes of liquid for reliable operation of the system.

Actually, the arrangement of the greenhouse does not end there: you need to lay the beds inside, lay paths, and if this is provided for in the project, install additional heating. But in any case, the design turns out to be quite reliable and functional!

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself greenhouse from old window frames can be created even by gardeners who have not previously been involved in construction and design. Its design is quite simple, and therefore, after reading the recommendations in the text and studying the video in this article, you can assemble this structure quickly and at relatively low cost.

If this idea interests you, then all questions you may have can be asked in the comments below: if I can, I will definitely recommend something useful!

October 17, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Only financial resources and thinking allow a summer resident to create certain structures on his site. After all, as a rule, we try to create everything with our own hands. Today we can talk about creating structures such as greenhouses, and they will be made from old window frames. This is the most a budget option of all the possible ones that can exist. And you don’t have to look for materials, since old windows can be found everywhere.

Where can I get window frames? It’s very simple: windows in a neighboring house or even an apartment, in a kindergarten, or in a school can be changed. Don't waste your chance: you need to take the frames to your garage. At the same time, you will even be grateful for the fact that construction garbage(which are the frames) will be removed from the site.

But just the availability of building materials will not solve the problem. You need to know how to properly make a greenhouse from frames for.

The basis of the greenhouse: choosing a suitable foundation

It is worth noting that a foundation must be laid for the greenhouse. Without it, the structure will collapse. The weight of the frames will be so great that over time the greenhouse will simply sag.

The highest quality and most reliable material is brick. However, the material is quite expensive. But with long-term use it pays off perfectly. Excessive moisture may cause the stone to deteriorate.

Natural stone is also expensive, but will be able to withstand the strongest greenhouse structures. Natural stone can also withstand the most humid environments, which makes it possible to give advantages in use to this particular material.

Wooden foundation

Wood is also very durable material, however, after five years you will have to change wooden foundation, which will begin to crumble under the influence of moisture and temperature changes.

Experts assure that the most the best option- this is concrete. Such a foundation can last as long as possible. Of course, you can use absolutely any construction option. It all depends on what financial resources you have.

Frame of the structure

It is worth noting that the greenhouse itself, made from window frames, is already quite durable. You just need to strengthen it and mount it correctly. In order for the frame to be strong, it must be firmly strengthened with the base. Window frames are simply connected to each other on the base using corners, screws, studs and other fastening materials. Each person determines for himself what materials to use for fastening. It all depends on the budget.

So, let's look at the most common types of frame fastenings

Corners and screws are rightfully the most reliable. During the installation of the greenhouse, you will only need to properly install the greenhouse and secure it to the foundation. The parts of the greenhouse are secured with corners and then connected to each other with self-tapping screws. This way it is possible to achieve the maximum degree of stability.

You can also install a greenhouse using wooden nails, as well as bars. This option is even simpler than the previous method of connecting structures. Inside, the frames are connected using small cross-section beams.

There is another way that requires a minimum of time and effort. To do this you will need wire and clamps. Using the wire, you can wind it around the part of the connection and tighten it with pliers. Plastic clamps, which can be bought at a hardware store, are also used for tension.

Installation of a greenhouse from old windows

It must be said that any greenhouse structure can be created from the frames. The only thing is that you need to assemble everything correctly so that the structure lasts a long time. In order for the work to be completed efficiently, all work must be carried out step by step.

The frame and base are the most important parts of the greenhouse during installation. The fasteners must be strong and reliable so that the greenhouse lasts a long time. There may be connections that require welding.

How to cover a greenhouse from frames

Since the frames themselves are heavy, it is not recommended to use glass. In this case, the weight will increase even more. Glass is used when a small greenhouse is being assembled. The best option is to cover the greenhouse with plastic film. For this, a simple sheathing is used on the top of the structure. Once the film is placed over the top of the greenhouse, you can begin to stretch the film.

Once all work is completed, you need to check its quality. If no flaws are found, then you can begin planting various crops. Now you can plant on your site at any time of the year. various cultures, which can only be grown on the site.

Do-it-yourself garden swing made of metal for the dacha.…

September 17, 2016
Specialization: professional approach to architecture, design and construction of private houses and cottages, new products on the market of building materials and finishing. Hobby: growing fruit trees and roses Breeding rabbits for meat and decorative breeds.

Everyone is familiar with the problem with used building materials. What to do with old wooden window frames if metal-plastic has been installed throughout the entire house or apartment? If there country cottage area, then a mini greenhouse made from windows is an excellent use of this material.

Average new greenhouse made of polycarbonate with an area of 20 square meters will cost from 15 to 25 thousand rubles. A greenhouse made from old windows will cost a maximum of five thousand, taking into account the cost of building a foundation and purchasing new boards for the frame.

It is not necessary to build a monumental structure, you can limit yourself to a mini greenhouse. How to build such a greenhouse with your own hands? I offer two alternative methods.

Choosing a place to build a greenhouse

In the photo - a mini greenhouse, we attach the frames from above along the ridge, the slope is at least 40 degrees

We build a greenhouse in a well-lit open place so that trees and buildings do not provide shade. If the area is small, then we orient ourselves in such a way that the morning and afternoon sun illuminates the greenhouse, and the evening sun rays You can also donate.

We arrange the greenhouse lengthwise from east to west. In this case, the sun will reach the plants evenly throughout the day, and the sprouts will not bend.

If we build small greenhouse without installing a strip foundation, it is not necessary to take into account soil moisture. But when arranging a greenhouse of 20 square meters or more, when there are many frames, the foundation must be placed on a dry place.

Greenhouse dimensions and foundation structure

Even shallow strip foundation a greenhouse must be built in a place where there is no close occurrence groundwater. On my site, in two places at a depth of one and a half meters, the soil is already wet, and there the house used to be. So in this old house it was constantly damp. When wet, the foundation gradually collapses.

We choose a dry area, preferably with chernozem soil, under which there is a layer of sand. It is clear that not all of us are happy owners of fertile lands. Therefore, if the soil is clayey, then the soil for the greenhouse will need to be prepared before building the foundation.

A certain soil composition is required for a greenhouse:

The bottom layer - gravel or crushed stone - is a drainage that will allow excess water to pass through and allow plant roots to breathe and prevent rotting.
Next, a layer of sand is needed - all plants love light soils at the root lobes, which allow the thin growing root to form and grow unhindered.
Only the last, top layer should be fertile. This is a layer of chernozem enriched with humus, pre-prepared leaf compost or a complex mineral fertilizers(nitroammophoska).

Greenhouse size

A small do-it-yourself greenhouse made from old window frames does not need a foundation. A frame made of boards or timber can be laid directly on the ground.

To prevent the boards from rotting, the lower frame must be treated with a protective wood primer or tarred. Roofing felt, which is used to wrap the lower square of the frame and rack, at a height of about 50 centimeters above ground level, is also suitable.

the most comfortable beds— one meter wide, they can be easily processed on both sides;
We make the path between the beds so wide that it is convenient to move around. If you don't plan to use garden wheelbarrow, That optimal width paths - half a meter;
The optimal width of the greenhouse is four meters. Three beds and two paths fit here. The length is arbitrary.

You can plan your future greenhouse in advance on paper. It takes a couple of minutes to make a drawing, but it will help you navigate the right number of frames and boards, and optimally divide required quantity beds and paths.

Foundation structure

A foundation is necessary for a large greenhouse, since the mass of frames with glass is rather large. A greenhouse made from window frames is installed with your own hands on a shallow (50 - 60 centimeters) strip foundation, since the frame can shrink under the weight of the frames and the structure is deformed.

For a footage of 10 square meters, a foundation on pillars is also suitable. The number of pillars is calculated based on the number of window frames. Ideally, each frame should be supported by two posts;
you can make a foundation of concrete, brick, or use a ready-made welded metal frame;
It's important to remember that brickwork Without a foundation, it “slides” over time, and it cannot be buried in the ground. Therefore, under brick pillars you still need to pour a concrete base.
in regions with severe frosts It is worth taking advantage of the natural warmth of the soil. Therefore, the greenhouse is buried into the ground by about half a meter or a meter, depending on the depth of freezing of the ground in winter;
a simple strip foundation is poured according to the usual scheme: trench, board formwork, concrete pouring, hardening, formwork removal.

The foundation must be covered with roofing felt before installing the frame. This will help further protect the wooden frame parts from moisture.

A welded frame is much more convenient. Why? For the reason that, if desired, the greenhouse can be moved to another place. If we fill the foundation, then it is already a permanent building.

I think you will be interested, there is information regarding the assessment suburban area. So - when assessing real estate on a site, all covered buildings on the foundation are included in the total economic area for which tax must be paid. Therefore, it is cheaper to weld a frame foundation for a greenhouse, which can be easily disassembled before the assessment commission arrives.

Frame installation

Before making a greenhouse from window frames, all wooden parts must be treated with a primer deep penetration and also paint the wood. This will keep it from rotting. Carefully remove paint from all old frames and adjust the parts so that there are no gaps.

There is no need to remove the vents and hinges; they will be useful for installation and subsequent ventilation of the greenhouse in summer time. If the frames are different in size, then we group them so that the shorter ones fall on the ends of the greenhouse, and the taller ones cover its long part.

Doors will be installed on the sides and the missing height can be hemmed with boards, but along the length it is better to be continuous.

For the base of the frame, a 50x50 or unedged board, thickness 40 - 50 mm, no longer needed, as the weight of the entire structure increases. The board for the frame is preferable, since its width allows the frames to be securely fastened with self-tapping screws and will give our base additional rigidity.

Frame elements:

Bottom trim - dimensions along the perimeter of the foundation. The beams can be fastened together with metal corners on self-tapping screws, rather than nails, this is more reliable. If the strapping is made of boards, then to give rigidity along the length, you can install one or two more boards.
The racks are attached vertically to bottom harness. They are mounted in the corners, along the length and on the sides in increments equal to the width of the window frames selected for the greenhouse. The racks in one row should be lower than in the other - for a slope of 40 degrees. The difference in height of the racks is 30 centimeters.
The top trim is the basis for the roof. A window frame greenhouse must have a slope angle of at least 40 degrees so that water can easily drain and accumulate in the film.
It is not practical to install a gable roof on such a structure. A single-slope roof would also work.. In order for the film to be securely fastened, the pitch between the roof slats should be no more than 60 cm. For the roof, you can use plasterboard guides. They are lightweight and very easy to attach to wood with self-tapping screws.

All fasteners are made using wood screws only. Fastening with nails during operation does not stand up to criticism; in a year the entire structure will be swaying in the wind.

Fastening the frames to the frame

There are a few important nuances, which must be taken into account when attaching frames to the finished frame:

The fastening step with self-tapping screws is 25 - 30 centimeters, no less.
The joints between the frames must be sealed. Polyurethane foam or regular window putty will do. Additionally, you can lay insulating tape or a rubber seal.
For reliability, the outside of the frame must also be attached with self-tapping screws; here the step can be more than 40 - 50 cm.
For reliability, the frame can be secured from the inside with a board at the bottom. We also attach it to wood screws.

If there are few old frames, then the northern side of the greenhouse can be covered with a board or thick one. But it is necessary to paint the plywood, as it very quickly becomes unusable from rain and snow.

Roof installation

The roofing material is dense polyethylene film for greenhouses or polycarbonate. Glazing a roof is a thankless task. hail, heavy rain or a storm and you have to change the glazing, and the price of glass is now quite high.

The downside of the film is that this canopy will have to be removed for the winter, and the reliability leaves much to be desired. Advantage - a pitched roof is suitable, less work and consumption of building materials. The pitch of the lathing under the film is no more than 40 m, since it sags and rainwater accumulates in it.
Polycarbonate is more expensive than film, but it is a more reliable option and also allows you to install an arched roof.

It is better to cover a small homemade greenhouse with film; it is easy to remove for the winter.

Installation of a gable roof frame

The operating procedure is as follows:

We install two load-bearing beams along the length, and we will attach the roof rafters to them.
We attach rafters to the top frame, depending on the length of the greenhouse from three to six pieces.
It is important to determine the angle of inclination of the rafters; it should be the same.
We mount the rafters to the supporting beam using vertical posts (trusses).
Next, along the rafters we apply lathing from slats to secure the roof covering. For polycarbonate, the pitch of the slats is 60 - 80 centimeters, for film 40 - 50 cm.
We fasten the roof along the sheathing. It is advisable to secure the film to the rafters with thin slats for reliability.

That's all, our greenhouse is ready, we can supply water and install electricity and lighting.

Summary

In the video presented in this article you can see the entire process of constructing a greenhouse from old window frames. If readers have any interesting suggestions and innovations, I invite you to discuss them in the comments.

September 17, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

50+ photos of greenhouses with an opening top

Below you can view a gallery of greenhouses with an opening lid that you can make with your own hands. We collected photos from all over the Internet, below we indicated the sources from which we were able to determine the authorship.

Mounting methods

How to attach an opening greenhouse lid

How to attach greenhouse arcs or PVC pipes under film

Clamps

We insert it into the ground
(Shockingly simple way!!!)

The method is that we plant PVC pipes on reinforcement driven into the ground. Wooden rods can be used instead of reinforcement (enough for a season)

Click on the photo to enlarge

How to attach film to a greenhouse

The simplest version of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes

Very simple design greenhouse Easy to assemble and just as easy to disassemble. It can be moved, enlarged, reduced.

It's cheap and easy to make .

Step by step photos. Click on them

How to make a greenhouse from willow or cedar branches.

This greenhouse is suitable for those who did not expect sudden frosts.

This mini greenhouse can be done in 45 minutes, according to the author of the photo.

To make the arcs, we used not PVC pipes, but cedar branches, but I think that in our conditions, willow branches will also work. The branches are tied together with nylon thread (it doesn’t matter what) to give it an arched shape. When the arches of branches are stuck into the ground, a block is attached on top of them to give one level, which is also attached to each arch.
To move such a greenhouse to another place, the author advises placing two long bars along the bases of the arcs, then tying each arc to these bars. As a result, we will get something like a stretcher. Taking such a stretcher from both ends, you can quite easily pull our greenhouse out of the ground and move it to another place.
Below you can see step by step photos, to enlarge, just click on them.

Telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse

Here is a very interesting version of a telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse. I moved the arches and nothing gets in the way, below you can see the fastening mechanism, click on it to enlarge.

DIY greenhouse with convertible top

Look at the step-by-step photos of making such a greenhouse. First we make a tray for the soil, then we make a frame on which we will attach the arcs, and which will recline. Then we attach this frame to the pallet on hinges and cover it with film.

Step-by-step photos of production.

Click on the gallery to enlarge

A greenhouse made of straw or hay.

As you can see, the photo shows a greenhouse, the walls of which are made of briquettes (or bales) of straw (hay). A frame with an opening top is simply piled on the straw walls. The film rolls onto the block. Such greenhouses are usually directed to the south. This design helps well when the slope of the soil on your site is directed to the north; in such cases, the sun slightly heats the earth. This kind of greenhouse will help you out in this situation..

(Dew Collector greenhouse system from Roots Up)

The greenhouse condenses up to 80 liters of water per day!!!

Soon, thanks to such greenhouses, Ethiopia will flood the world with food. The greenhouse was created for arid countries to solve the problem of drought.
During the day, steam accumulates in the upper part of the greenhouse. When night falls, special valves are opened to draw in cold air, which cools and condenses the water vapor, after which the liquid enters a special storage tank.
Excess water left after irrigation can be used for drinking.

Portable greenhouse (greenhouse) from a barrel

Easy and simple to make (45 minutes)

This portable greenhouse is suitable for growing seedlings, or plants such as parsley, cilantro, etc.

2 photos - cut out square holes with a jigsaw to 1 quarter of the circumference of the barrel.
3rd photo - a hole with a drill so that you can insert a jigsaw.
4 photos - holes in the bottom to drain water from the drainage.
5-6 photos - attach handles on the sides for carrying.
7-12 photos we attach the film.
14 photos - drainage.

The greenhouse can be painted in green color so that it blends in with the landscape of the dacha

Portable greenhouse made of film

As you can see from the photo, the greenhouse has a lightweight version. It does not have a massive base; it is attached to the ground with reinforcement fixed to the base. It is carried as if on a stretcher using two long boards nailed to the base. It will be useful for the gardener when there is a need to close some weak plants at the time of cold snap.

How to automatically open windows in a greenhouse?

A very interesting and simple design for automatically opening the window depending on the weather conditions. The principle is as follows. Between the large (3L) and small (0.5L) jars there passes a tube in the form of a communicating vessel. A large jar is suspended from the base of the greenhouse, and a small one from the window. Moreover, the small one should be balanced with the window in such a way that with a minimum amount of water in it, the window should be closed. In a hermetically sealed large jar when the temperature in the greenhouse rises. water due atmospheric pressure moves into a small jar, opening the window

A simple greenhouse option opening from the side .

As you can see, the design of a greenhouse made of film is very simple. Such a greenhouse can be easily moved and placed in a new location.

Dome greenhouse made from pipe scraps

it's ugly, but it works

The authors of the blog booth555.com moved to new house, and they had to install their own sewer system. As a result, they were left with a lot of pipe scraps, which were used by an enterprising young family to create this greenhouse. The advantages of these pipes are that they are easy to bend and at the same time stable and easy to nail down.

Look at step-by-step photos of creating a greenhouse.

As I understand from the translation of the article from English, the pipes are attached to wooden crossbars using tape. I didn’t really understand about the film, the film scraps were somehow fastened together, most likely a cord was threaded through the holes, and there is also a hint in the 6th photo.

The film at the bottom is pressed to the ground with bricks, this makes it possible to lift the film up on hot days.

I could not translate the purpose of the star (in the 4th photo), but I assumed that it was attached to the dome to give stability to the structure.

Write your options for assigning a star in the comments.

Recumbent greenhouse made of double-glazed windows or frames

The author of the blog doorgarden.com made such a recumbent greenhouse on his site from glass door(a double-glazed window), which was accidentally hit by a stone from under a lawn mower.
According to the author, such a greenhouse allows him to collect greens for salads in January, well, America, I can’t say exactly what state it is.

Look at the drawing of this greenhouse. Everything is very simple. As we can see from the photo, the double-glazed window is not attached to any hinges; it simply lies, resting against the side board to prevent it from slipping.
The double-glazed window can be replaced with any large glass or window frame.

in summer hot weather, when there is no need for such a greenhouse, it can be thrown over the strawberries to protect the berries from birds.

Photo source: doorgarden.com

Attention!!! Important point about greenhouses made from window frames

Whatever frames you have at your disposal, the transparent roof must be made folding (lifting upward), and not swinging or folding, as on the right in Fig. Through any vertical crack the entire warm air will instantly evaporate and the plants will be hit with cold, and the horizontal one can be adjusted with supports according to the weather and local conditions.

What should be the slope of the greenhouse lid???

Note: optimal inclination slope of the roof of a lean-to greenhouse from the vertical (90 degrees) – φ, where φ – geographic latitude places; and (90 degrees)–φ is the angular altitude of the Sun at noon of the spring/autumn equinox. See below about a greenhouse with a heat accumulator.

Source of the last two paragraphs and photos: vopros-remont.ru

Cold greenhouse. (diagram-drawing)

With your own hands

Auto photo of this cold greenhouse Vince Babak, while growing vegetables for the school cafeteria, wondered if it was possible to grow fresh vegetables early winter. After studying the literature on this topic, he created this winter cold greenhouse.

The greenhouse consists of a wooden frame and glass lid. The glass of the lid should always be tilted to catch as many rays of the weak winter sun as possible.

The author claims that even in winter, with sunny weather, this greenhouse can heat up to very high temperatures, so the lid must be able to open upward. In order to regulate the temperature, a thermometer must be placed in the greenhouse (see photo 5), and a mechanism must also be made to fix the open lid on different angles(see photo 4).

Vegetables that can be grown in early winter in a cold greenhouse

BUT still, the main secret of such a greenhouse is not in its structure, but in the plants grown in it . These should be plants that can easily tolerate cold. According to the author's research, there are five crops: spinach, green onions, mache, claytonia, and carrots can be grown successfully in the northern states of the United States. And also arugula, Escarole, Mizuna, parsley, sorrel, European lettuce, mustard, spinach and turnips.

My advice: Make a cardboard sheet covered on one side with foil. At night, you can cover the greenhouse with this foil, which will reflect the heat coming from the ground back into the greenhouse.

Greenhouse made of window frame and hay

Greenhouse (greenhouse) In a plastic bottle

or "How to grow seedlings if the apartment is cold"

Often happens in our domestic apartments what for growing seedlings the room is not warm enough. A way out of this situation could be a greenhouse like this in a plastic bottle.

When sunlight enters such a greenhouse, the air in the greenhouse begins to heat up. and remains warm for a very long time, even after sunset .

An important advantage will be high humidity inside the bottles and, which will be created due to the heating of pre-moistened soil. This humidity significantly speeds up the process of seedling ripening.

The manufacturing process is simple : cut the bottle, wash it, place the soil with the seeds inside and seal it tightly with tape.

How to make a quick greenhouse with your own hands

Greenhouse made of wooden gratings

The advantages of such a greenhouse:

- quickly erected
- stable
- easy to manufacture

Minuses:

Not suitable for tall plants, but can be used for growing early greens and seedlings.

Russian in-depth greenhouse on biofuel

About Russian pits

The simplest greenhouse is a lean-to greenhouse, sunk into the ground, with biological heating. For its construction, choose a dry, well-lit and sheltered place from the winds. It is desirable that it be a low slope facing south. To protect the greenhouse from the wind, green spaces, fences or special reflective screens, which are installed on the north side, can be used. Particularly convenient are the rotating flat screens, painted white, which allow you to get the most out of your solar energy. Illumination with reflected light increases the temperature in the beds by 2-3°, which is equivalent to moving your site, for example, from the Moscow region to the black earth regions of the country: Lipetsk or Voronezh.

Note: You can use any flat panels covered with aluminum foil for baking.

Construction begins with the installation of a frame around the perimeter of the greenhouse made of four sanded logs with a diameter of 10-14 cm. The northern side of the frame should be slightly higher than the south. On the south side, a groove (quarter) is selected in the trim to support the frames.

At one time, the Russian greenhouse was a revelation for European farmers. It was from the “Russian pits” that the nobility of that time received green onions, lettuce, dill, parsley, radishes, and strawberries for the table in winter.

The pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm. In diameter it has the shape of a trapezoid. In dense soils, the walls do not need to be fastened, but in loose and slumping soils, fastening with horizontal boards is used. To prevent the greenhouse from being washed away by rain, a drainage ditch is installed around it, which can be closed wooden shields, facilitating approaches.

The most convenient frames for a greenhouse are 160x105 cm in size. They are made from 6x6cm bars, connected for strength with wooden pins, and then properly painted with weather-resistant varnish PF-166 (“6 = c”). Glass is strengthened with putty or glazing bead. To drain rainwater, grooves are cut into the lower sashes.

Biofuel in greenhouses is horse or cow dung . Horse fiber is considered the best; it gives more heat. It is harvested in the fall. Manure is collected in piles and carefully insulated on all sides with straw, sawdust, peat and covered so that the manure does not freeze. In the spring, before filling the greenhouse, it is transferred to another, looser pile and heated. To do this, make several holes in it and pour a bucket into each hot water, after which the stack is covered with burlap or matting. After two to four days, when the manure warms up to a temperature of 50-60°, the greenhouse is filled with it. The colder one is placed on the bottom, and the hotter one is placed on top and on the sides. After precipitation, a new portion is added in two to three days. The manure should lie loosely, and only at the walls it should be slightly compacted so that voids do not form.

Greenhouses - pits were usually made of 3-4, which ensured year-round use: while 1 pit was warming up after refilling, the rest were producing products. An indispensable condition for the successful operation of a Russian greenhouse is the lining of the entire complex of pits clay castle With drainage ditch, otherwise the biofuel will sour.

To enlarge the photo click on it

After filling, the greenhouse is covered with frames and mats made of matting, straw or burlap. Soil is poured on top of the heated manure - garden or turf soil, compost or fertilized peat. On average, one frame requires 0.2 cubic meters. m of land. It is not recommended to exceed this amount, since under the weight of the earth the manure becomes compacted, the flow of air to it becomes difficult, and it stops burning. For the same reason, you should not over-moisten the soil.

A greenhouse of even such a simple design will make it possible to grow vegetables much ahead of schedule.

Greenhouse layout diagram

where is the best place to put a greenhouse on the site?

You can always buy ready-made greenhouses freely available in specialized stores. But they are expensive and not many gardeners can afford to buy them. There is only one thing left to do, build the structure with your own hands.

If you can’t find discarded frames, you can negotiate with workers or a manager from a company that installs metal-plastic windows. After all, the happy owners of new plastic windows simply throw the old ones into a landfill. Why not use old unnecessary frames. To begin with, you should choose the place where the new greenhouse will be built on your personal plot.

What you need to pay attention to:

Good lighting;
Mandatory orientation from North to South;
Dry dense soil;
Windless area;
The area must be level;
Lack of groundwater.

Next, you need to first prepare the old window frames. It is necessary to remove or trim those areas that are clearly rotten or have mold on them, remove all fittings, remove all old paint from frame

Be sure to remove all the glass (to avoid damage to the glass due to impacts during installation of the structure).

It is necessary to treat the wood with an antiseptic to protect it from rot, mold and dirt, strengthen all the windows if they are not needed in the new greenhouse design, and restore the wood of the frames.

Installation of a greenhouse from window frames

Very often, in the courtyards of multi-storey buildings you can see a lot of discarded wooden window wounds. Residents are replacing old wooden ones with plastic frames. But when they throw them away, the residents don’t even realize that it’s valuable. construction material for summer residents. From these frames you can build an excellent greenhouse, and it is necessary when growing seedlings and early fruits.

Where to begin:

Take careful measurements of the window frames;
Draw accurate drawings of the future greenhouse;
Collect tools.

The first thing to do when starting construction of such a greenhouse is to measure all existing old window frames. This is necessary to know in order to accurately assemble available supplies.

The drawing must indicate the location of the entrance to the greenhouse, the exact location of the beds and passages between them for their maintenance.

Some standard building sizes - the beds need to be 1 m wide, and the passage between the beds is approximately 80–100 cm, and the height of the greenhouse should be more than 1.70 m.

How to properly build a greenhouse with your own hands from window frames

The first thing that is necessary for a greenhouse is the construction of a foundation, because old window frames are quite heavy. Most often, a strip foundation is built. First, outline the dimensions of the greenhouse according to the diagram. Then they dig a trench to a depth of 42-53 cm deep. We strengthen the formwork from wooden boards.

So that the boards can be easily removed from the concrete, they must be wrapped in polyethylene.

Wire reinforcement is laid down the trench. Let's prepare a solution of sand, crushed stone, cement (M200-400) and water. After hardening, carefully remove the boards and allow the foundation to gain strength (3-4 weeks). When laying the foundation, it must be taken into account that it will be ready only in a month.

Steps to remember during construction:

We arrange a strip foundation;
We install the beams as the main frame;
We build the main part - we fix the old window frames;
We are building a roof.

The voids between the foundation and the ground must be compacted with wet sand, and the simplest waterproofing must be done on top - roofing felt tape or bitumen. Next stage– this is the installation of a frame for a greenhouse from prepared wooden frames. We assemble everything according to the drawing. First, you need to build a frame. It is made from wooden beams. A certain amount of timber is sawn off to the required length. The beams are fastened together with self-tapping screws and metal corners, the frames should also be secured to the timber using self-tapping screws. But it’s even better if the main pillars of the frame are vertical pillars, which will be strengthened earlier, at the stage of pouring the foundation. Any cracks and holes must be sealed; the structure does not need drafts.

The last stage of construction is the installation of the roof. It can be single or double slope. Everything is simple here. If there are not enough materials, then you need to build pitched roof. And if there are enough old wooden frames, and gardeners have some means, then you can take a swing at gable roof or even a more expensive option - a roof made of polycarbonate sheet. The greenhouse roof assembly is a hermetically sealed connection of glass or polycarbonate sheet, or simply dense polyethylene film with a frame and beam, since if hit excess moisture inside the greenhouse, plants may suffer due to mold and rot. After everything, the glass is inserted into the frames.

But there is another option - homemade greenhouses. The most important thing in this option is the installation of wooden beams of the frame future design. Along the entire perimeter, vertical beams are connected and thus further strengthened with each other by long wooden planks. These boards will also serve as walls for the greenhouse. The boards are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws with metal corners.

Then we attach old wooden window frames, previously prepared, to the frame of the future greenhouse. They are mounted on hinges so that you can easily open the greenhouse or even remove the entire frame.

Elite greenhouse made of plastic windows

IN Lately, during the construction of new modern apartment buildings, which are already being rented with metal-plastic windows, but not of very good quality. Owners of new apartments most often try to get rid of low-quality plastic windows. Often, after the completion of a new house, you can also see quite decent metal-plastic window. It’s clearly not suitable for a window into an apartment, but it’s just right for building a greenhouse.

Construction has stages:

Foundation;
Frame made of wooden beams;
Fastening plastic window frames to bars;
Roof construction;
Debugging of plastic windows.

A greenhouse is a simple matter, even for dummies. It is necessary to carefully measure the old window frames and, based on existing materials, draw a drawing of the future greenhouse, and strictly follow this plan. Well, the most important thing is that building a greenhouse is not a one-day job.

The bonus of a built greenhouse is early vegetables and greens, and excellent quality proven seedlings.

DIY greenhouse made from window frames (video)

This type of greenhouse has been the most sought after and popular among amateur gardeners for many years. This building looks very beautiful on the site. And if you work a little around the greenhouse landscape design, then the result will not only be a functional structure, but will delight the eyes of its owners. It should also be noted that access to plants with this type of greenhouse is very good and convenient. It is accessible from all sides and is very successful and functional.