Chipboard end connection. Features of furniture fasteners and what options exist

In this article I will try to consider the main connection methods furniture parts providing them, if possible, with installation tips with diagrams and comments.

So, the simplest option for attaching metal or plastic parts (metaboxes, coat hooks, mounting corners) to laminated chipboards, the laminated chipboard sheets themselves, and the sheets to the walls is self-tapping screws. They can be with countersunk heads (in Fig. No. 1, 3,4,5,6), with press washers (in Fig. No. 2) and dowel-nails (in Fig. No. 7), which are used for driving /screwing into walls.

Screws are marked with two meanings. The first number indicates the thread diameter, the second the overall length. Naturally, the larger the diameter and length, the greater the load the self-tapping screw will withstand.

pros

Ease of use,

Cheapness

Minuses:

Relatively small load to withstand.

For tightening, a screwdriver/screwdriver with a corresponding bit is used - usually a cross-shaped one. To avoid cracking of the workpieces, it is necessary to pre-drill the mounting holes - with a drill smaller in diameter than the thread size. It is necessary to drill a recess under the cap. I usually do this with a screwdriver bit.

A reinforced version of self-tapping screws, which also looks somewhat more aesthetically pleasing, are confirmations(or European screws). They differ from ordinary screws in their greater thickness, thread pitch, cylindrical hexagon head and blunt end.

There are two main sizes of confirmations used: 50 mm and 75 mm. The former are more common and convenient for tightening 16 mm laminated chipboards, while the latter are better used for working with 26 mm laminated chipboards.

pros

together,

Significant holding force

Minuses

Through fastening, which means a cap visible on the surface (can be closed decorative plugs),

Instability to assembly and disassembly (the connection after just 3-4 cycles of assembly and disassembly practically loses its fixing properties).

This fastening method allows you to repeatedly assemble and disassemble furniture, especially when using a footer, without losing the strength of the connection.

This advantage is more than compensated by the complexity of manufacturing. For installation you will need: cylindrical drills (for wood or metal) with a diameter of 5 and 8 mm (5 mm must be with a stop), with a diameter of 15 mm. It is advisable to use a furniture jig for precise assembly.

pros

Stealth (no visible fasteners are visible from the outside)

Possibility of tightening parts together

Minuses

Inside the product, a fairly large eccentric remains visible - 15 mm, which needs to be hidden (with a plastic or self-adhesive plug)

Complexity (3 parts, 3 holes, special tools)

Eccentric coupler VB35 MD/16 differs from the minifix in the structure of the eccentric and the short rod. It is mainly used for hanging shelves, although also for various kinds lids and table tops are also perfect. There are two options for rods: short (for hanging shelves on one side) and long (if the shelves should be on both sides vertical stand on the same level. In this case, the rod passes through the parts, protruding symmetrically on both sides).

The eccentric itself in this version is closed in a decorative casing (metal or plastic), the color of which can be matched to the color of the chipboard. It looks quite original, and there is no need to hide it. The eccentric is screwed in from below; if necessary, you can drill an additional hole on top of the shelf, which will then have to be closed with a plug.

pros

Invisible from the outside

There is no need to hide the eccentric inside the finished product

Possibility of tightening parts

Easy to make connections (only 2 holes, instead of three in the minifix)

Easy installation (the shelf is simply thrown on top and then fixed)

Possibility of repeated assembly and disassembly

Minuses

Expensive (price about 15 rubles per set)

The need for specialized tools (Forstner cutter)

The attachment force is less than that of confirmatories

Furniture screed used mainly for pulling together several cabinets into a single block (for example, in kitchens). Represents threaded connection with two heads for Phillips and flat screwdrivers.

To use, you only need a drill of a suitable diameter and a screwdriver.

pros

Significant holding force

Easy to install

Possibility of tightening parts

Minuses

Narrow specialization (the ability to tighten only parallel parts),

Visible heads

It consists of as many as five parts: the tie itself, two footers and two bolts with countersunk head. To work, you will need a 10 mm drill, a screwdriver, a hexagon (metal fittings - screw it in) or a hammer (plastic fittings - hammer it in).

pros

Significant connection strength

Unpretentiousness to marking holes

Easy to manufacture (2 holes)

Possibility of repeated assembly and disassembly

Invisibility from outside the product

Possibility of tightening parts

Minuses

Plastic corners simple and cheap way connection of parts. It differs from the previous one in being more aesthetically pleasing and easier to install (no need to drill anything out at all - it is attached with simple self-tapping screws, but is much less durable. Currently produced a large number of colors - can be chosen to suit chipboard color so that the element does not catch the eye.

Their variety is metal corners with plastic cover have the same advantages and disadvantages with the exception of slightly higher connection strength (of course, they do not reach the level of an aluminum tie, but they are no longer a plastic corner).

Minuses

Dimensions (interferes with the installation of other fittings),

Poor connection strength

Inability to tighten parts

Impossibility of repeated assembly and disassembly,

In conclusion, I will say that to choose furniture fittings that are optimal in your case, you should remember a few simple rules:

The fittings must withstand the expected load with some margin;

Fixing elements on finished product should be as invisible as possible;

Fastener elements accessible to the eye must be covered with decorative plugs (plastic or self-adhesive);

Consider the possibility of subsequent assembly and disassembly of the product.

FOR A BEGINNER FURNITURE MAKER, I WOULD ADVISE USING CONFIRMATIONS AND SCREWS, SOMETIMES SUPPLEMENTING THEM WITH DIFFERENT CORNERS. IN MOST CASES THIS IS ENOUGH FOR A STRONG AND NOT VERY VISIBLE CONNECTION.

Modern furniture fittings offers a wide range of furniture fasteners, each of which has its own area of application depending on the type of connection and materials used. In this article we will examine in detail the main furniture fasteners that are used to make furniture in professional workshops and by home craftsmen.

Furniture dowel

This type of fastening is rarely used on its own in the modern furniture industry. It is mainly used only to impart rigidity in conjunction with eccentric couplers.

Its main function in most cases of furniture construction is to prevent the panels from moving relative to each other and giving additional rigidity to the fastening.

Usually used in conjunction with an eccentric coupler. It is made from hard rocks natural wood, It has cylindrical shape. This is a very simple and cheap part that is used in wooden connections from time immemorial.

Craftsmen and carpenters who work with wood use furniture dowels as the main fastening element. In this case, the furniture parts are connected to dowels, which are glued to the parts using PVA glue. In this case, using any other screeds together with PVA no longer makes sense.

Screw tie

The screw coupler consists of a screw and a barrel. This kit is used to attach the end of one panel to the face of another. For example, for attaching a shelf to a side panel or a headboard to the drawers.

This is a very strong fastening due to the large tightening stroke. The only drawback of this fastener is the visibility of the screw head from front side panels.

You can, of course, close them with special plugs, but this is also not a panacea. Plugs on external panel the cabinets do not look aesthetically pleasing.

Installation of this type of fastener requires skills. Beginners may encounter such a problem as inaccurate alignment of the barrel holes with the hole in the end of the shelf, and it is not so easy to remove the unwanted barrel from its nest.

But the inconvenience during assembly and aesthetic errors are more than compensated for by the reliability and durability of the connection.

Conical coupler

The conical tie is often used for fastening thick chipboard panels (25 mm, 38 mm) and assembling frame facades on tie bars.

One of its advantages is the absence of visible caps on the front side of the panels. Unlike the screw in a screw tie, the rod used in a tapered tie is screwed into the panel. The screed itself has 2 holes. One is for the rod, which is screwed into the panel layer. The second is for the conical tie screw. The disadvantage of this type of fastener is the small tightening stroke. Under heavy loads, the holes for the rod screw may become loose over time. Then the screed will simply stop working!

Furniture corner

Quite a simple type of fastener. Easy to install. Doesn't require any additional holes in panels for its installation. There are both metal and plastic options.

Quite a strong type of fastening. The disadvantages are that it is visible and does not look aesthetically pleasing. But this is the main type of fastening in built-in furniture.

Euroscrew

This fastener is most often used for assembling modules kitchen furniture and in economy class furniture. Just like with a screw tie, Euroscrew heads or plugs are visible on the front side of the side panel of the cabinet.

It screws into the end of the shelf with a pre-drilled hole. This screed also belongs to the economy class. To install it, 2 holes are drilled - into the end of the shelf and into the face of the part. They are attached perpendicular to each other. The most commonly used euroscrews are 7 mm in diameter and 50 or 70 mm in length.

This screed has 2 significant drawbacks:

Firstly, the outer side of the cabinet, if there are many shelves behind it, as a rule, is all “disfigured” with caps or Euroscrew plugs. Therefore, these fasteners are used in economy furniture. In kitchens, this drawback is hidden thanks to the cabinets standing in a row.

Secondly, furniture assembled with euroscrews cannot be disassembled and reassembled more than 3 times, since screwing the tie into the end of the shelf destroys its internal structure.

Eccentric coupler

One of the most popular types of fasteners today. All quality furniture It is assembled precisely on an eccentric coupler (minifix). Its operating principle is as follows: an eccentric rod is screwed into the face of the part to which another panel will be attached at the end, into which the eccentric itself is screwed through the end of the other shelf, and then the eccentric turns the rod into itself.

An eccentric tie is always used in conjunction with a wooden dowel, which was described earlier. The dowel provides additional rigidity to the assembly and prevents the fixed panels from moving relative to each other.

Furniture assembled on this screed can be disassembled and assembled an unlimited number of times! There are different diameters of the eccentric itself: 25, 15, 12 mm. More common is an eccentric with a diameter of 15 mm.

Since the eccentric itself is visible on the side panel, plugs are provided for it to match the color of the panel. One of the disadvantages is the weakening of the tie in the event of spontaneous rotation of the eccentric.

To avoid this, some hardware manufacturers have provided notches directed in the opposite direction from its rotation during installation, which enhances adhesion.

Types of eccentric couplers

As practice shows, furniture is assembled and disassembled with great difficulty if all the fasteners in it are metal ties, described above. Let’s say that in order to remove one shelf, you practically need to disassemble half the cabinet. For horizontal parts (shelves), it is more convenient to use eccentrics, which allow you to place horizontal parts in an already assembled furniture box. Their operating principle is the same as that of the previously described eccentric coupler. The only difference is that the eccentric, located in the shelf, fits onto the rod screwed into the face of the sidewall from above and there is no need to disassemble half the cabinet for this. In some factories, this type of fastener is called a shelf holder, since it is intended only for horizontal parts. Horizontal shelves assembled using these ties further tighten the joint, which increases the rigidity of the entire furniture frame.

There is a wide variety of eccentric-type furniture fasteners on the furniture market, but the principle of operation is the same for all. Knowing the operating principle of one type of eccentric coupler, you can easily understand the others.

To ensure high quality assembly and installation of interior elements, furniture fasteners are used. Depending on the location of fixation and method of connection, there are several varieties. These elements not only make the assembly and installation procedure easier, but will also be invisible after the process is completed.

The design and type of fastener will depend on the purpose of the furniture on which it is fixed. The elements can hold the product together inside, creating its frame, and also secure the base of the furniture to the wall or floor. Today the following types of fasteners are used:

Furniture corner;
Confirmation;
Dowel;
Screeds;
Shelf supports;

Each of these types has its own characteristics and features that distinguish them from each other. To find out which element is needed to assemble furniture, it is recommended to consider in detail the advantages and disadvantages of each category.

Furniture corner

This element belongs to a simple and outdated type of furniture fastener. It would seem that if a detail is outdated, then why talk about it? It's simple - such a corner will be useful for beginning assemblers. He will also become an assistant in independent design furniture products and subsequent assembly. In addition, its installation does not require any special equipment or skills. According to the production material, there are 2 types of furniture corners:

Plastic - fastened with self-tapping screws, has a more miniature appearance and is relatively light weight. This corner is convenient to use for fastening light furniture panels or for supporting furniture parts;
Metal - has stiffening ribs and is produced at an angle of 90 degrees. To fix the part, plastic or metal screws and couplings are used. There are holes on one side of the corner and grooves on the opposite side.

Such fasteners are used to connect the roof or bottom of a sliding wardrobe with its walls or when assembling cabinet kitchen furniture. Plastic options are equipped with a special plug, which gives the product a finished look. Metal ones are considered affordable and very durable. The disadvantages of fastening include the gradual loosening of surfaces fixed with corners, as well as the unattractive appearance.

Plastic

Confirmat

This name is usually used to refer to ordinary furniture screws. In another way they are called euroscrews, as well as euroscrews. The fastener is easy to install and does not require precision; a screwdriver or drill is required to fix it. In the screw head there is a hole for a hex key, which is also necessary for work.

To install this part, you need to drill two holes: one in the end of the part, and the other in the element that will be attached. The ease of assembling furniture using a confirmat allows the furniture maker to drill holes on site. It takes a minimum of time to complete the job. You can simplify the process as much as possible if you use a special drill for confirmation for installation. However, many furniture makers claim that over time this device becomes loose and the cutters become clogged with wood shavings. Therefore, for frequent use, standard drills are used.

The most popular and used confirmat size is 7x50 mm. Below are the pros and cons of using this fastener.

Based on the information provided, it is worth noting that these furniture fastenings are convenient and reliable. But if you can use them, then it is better to give preference to an eccentric coupler.

Dowel

Hidden types of fastening are a feature of furniture assembled using dowels. This is a small wooden cylinder, its dimensions are often 35x8 mm. The first number shows the height of the element, and the second indicates the diameter of the fastener. The essence of fastening with dowels is as follows:

Holes are drilled in each of the two parts;
The holes must be coaxial - that is, coincide in the location of the axis;
A dowel is inserted into one hole, which only goes halfway deep;
A second piece of furniture is placed on the cant protruding from the furniture piece - this is how they are tied together.

In order for the connection to have increased strength, the hole is treated with PVA glue, which additionally fixes the dowels and makes them motionless. The big advantage of this type of furniture fastener is that it remains invisible: it cannot be seen from the outside or the inside. The dowel connection has some disadvantages: it is done once, so it is extremely difficult to disassemble such furniture without damage. The second disadvantage is that precise drilling of holes is required for a perfect fit of the two components. This nuance creates the need to use special devices.

Devices for installing dowels are called conductors. They can be factory-made or home-made. The former are considered the best in quality, but the latter can be made independently.

Ties

Today there are two main varieties furniture screed– eccentric and intersectional. It is necessary to consider in more detail each of specified types separately:

Eccentric tie – this element is used only in conditions of factory assembly of furniture. To put him on furniture board you need to use a drilling device exact hole. The main advantage of such fasteners is the ability to remain invisible, then the furniture acquires a neat and attractive appearance. Another advantage, compared to confirmed ones, is that such furniture fasteners allow you to assemble and disassemble furniture several times without losing rigidity. In addition, using an eccentric coupler it is possible to fasten parts at an angle;
Intersectional tie - represented by a screw and a nut, with the help of which two perpendicular furniture elements are tightened. An intersectional screed is convenient for fixing the headboard and bottom of the bed, as well as tabletops. It is necessary to select fasteners based on the thickness of the particle board.

The most popular tie size is 32 mm, but this figure can reach 50 mm.

Eccentric

Intersectional

Shelf supports

A large number of shelf holders allows us to divide them into 2 subgroups: for parts made of chipboard and glass. IN furniture showrooms you can find many models where glass is harmoniously combined with wooden base. To efficiently hold two materials of different composition together, shelf holders are used.

Each type can be separately divided into two more categories: with and without fixation. Let's take a closer look at how to fix glass in furniture, as well as how to use a shelf holder for chipboard.

When installing shelves in a cabinet or cabinet, you cannot do without shelf supports. They should ideally match the style of the furniture and be combined with general principles interior

Previously, the bolt-nut system was widely used to fix furniture parts. With this connection, a hole was drilled in both surfaces through which the bolt was threaded. On the other side of the cabinet wall, this bolt was secured with a nut. Today a screw with a nut is also used - it is the most simple type connections of furniture parts. The screw is equipped with a semicircular head, which, after connecting to the nut, does not rotate, but remains motionless. This fastener is easy to use, but with the advent of new materials, it has faded into the background. Bolts with nuts are suitable for use by craftsmen at the initial level of assembly.

The advantages of such fasteners are:

Possibility of self-assembly;
Availability of parts;
Possibility of reusable assembly and disassembly of furniture.

Among the disadvantages is the visibility of the fasteners, which is why they have ceased to be relevant. Another significant drawback is the ability to connect only parallel surfaces.

Types, depending on the material to which it is attached

Modern manufacturers today use not only chipboard to make furniture. Glass, metal parts, and plastic elements are widely used. Fastenings for furniture made of chipboard were discussed throughout the material, and options for fastening objects made from other raw materials are discussed below:

Glass - screw-type holders are used that are screwed into a wall made of concrete or plasterboard. They are used to fix shelves and mirror surfaces without damaging the coating of the part. For glass doors the use of furniture hinges is suitable for the cabinet;
Metal - metal racks are used to connect shelves screw fastenings. They are screwed into the racks using a drill or screwdriver. An attractive cap is installed on the front side;
Plastic – plastic parts can be secured using any chipboard fasteners.

Separately, it is worth highlighting the fastening dovetail– it is used to connect boxes. The essence of the connection is to cut out a comb surface on each part, which is inserted into another part, resulting in end-to-end fixation. Choose only the type of fastening that suits you best. Before purchasing, be sure to calculate the thickness of the material so that during the assembly process screws and screws do not protrude on the surface.

Kitchens and wardrobes are almost the easiest types of furniture to assemble for novice craftsmen (not counting only bedside tables and shelves). In general, furniture for the living room and bedroom usually requires a more serious approach, the use of non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners understand how to make furniture themselves.

tree in pure form are no longer used in cabinet furniture; solid wood is considered an expensive luxury material.

Now wood is being replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated laminated chipboard). Most often, these boards have a thickness of 16 mm; chipboards with a thickness of 10 and 22 mm can also be found on sale. 10 mm sheets are usually used to fill wardrobe doors, and 22 mm - for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes the structure is decorated with elements made from 22 mm laminated chipboard.

Almost all furniture parts are made from 16 mm laminated chipboard (except for doors and facades).
Laminated chipboard
Cutting laminated chipboard produced on special machines along guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home using a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy irregularities on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off chipboard evenly with a jigsaw at home.

Edges

The most vulnerable place of laminated chipboard is when it is cut down. It is the easiest way for moisture to penetrate inside, so if the protection is poor, the ends may soon swell. Therefore, the ends are closed using edges; there are several types of them.

Melamine edge is the cheapest, but of poor quality. You can stick it on at home using an iron.

PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm – best option. It can only be glued to special machine, so they do it immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to the invisible ends, and 2 mm to the external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

ABS edge is similar to PVC, but made from environmentally friendly material.
Mortise T-profile– inserted into a groove previously made with a milling cutter. Rarely used.

Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued to liquid nails at home. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude a few millimeters, so dirt will get stuck under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

Facades

Kitchen fronts and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant material. But if you are making a drawer door inside a sliding wardrobe that no one will see, you can use regular 16 mm laminated chipboard with a 2 mm PVC edge for it. But the cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

By standard sizes you can easily navigate: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm façade is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high wall cabinets.

Types of facades

Since facades are mainly decorative function, the choice is huge, they differ in appearance and material.

Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture-resistant and dense compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated to look like wood. But no matter how strong the film is, over time it can come off at the edges and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. The glass is attached to the cover on the reverse side.
Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

Postforming – even higher quality and durable products. Thin plastic at the edges is wrapped 90° or 180°, thereby eliminating unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards. Typically, postforming is done in a strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

Plastic facades- high quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard/MDF) lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have a strict design and flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edges or aluminum profiles. IN Lately Super glossy acrylic plastic is especially popular.

Wood and veneer facades - suitable for amateurs natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, there is a long debate about environmental friendliness: there is an opinion that there is so much varnish and impregnation that there is only one name left for the tree.

Painted facades to resemble enamel. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, has low chemical resistance. They used to be popular due to their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything changed.

Aluminum facades with glass are suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. Non-standard fittings are used for their fastening.

Back walls and bottoms of drawers

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDF. The smooth side of the sheet should face the inside of the cabinet/drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected to match the chipboard.

Some people prefer to mount HDF on furniture stapler, but you can’t do that. Over time, the brackets will become loose and the structure may warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the drawers - a stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture LDVP
Sometimes it is inserted into a groove prepared with a milling cutter, but all dimensions must match down to the millimeter.

Most often, HDF is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them in, you must drill a hole, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a “stiffener” in a tall cabinet or in drawers with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with laminated chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

Tabletops

Table top – horizontal working surface, on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and desks, as well as in cheap dining rooms, the tabletop is made of the same chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is necessary to frame it with a 2 mm PVC edge.

Special countertops are used for the kitchen. They are a sheet of chipboard 28-38 mm thick, which is covered on top with durable plastic using postforming technology. Moisture-resistant countertops have green color on the cut, and ordinary chipboard is gray. Correct kitchen countertop must have a drip tray that will prevent the flowing liquid from getting onto the facades and drawers.

The weak point of such countertops is the cut edge. They are usually covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable within the first year of use. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles ( end strip), and to protect against moisture, pre-coat the cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profiles: corner and connecting strips, which are needed for joining several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for table top

One more element - decorative corner, which closes the gap between the wall and the countertop.

Sometimes used to finish an apron wall panel. Unlike tiles or mosaics, it is more practical due to the absence of seams and is inexpensive compared to glass splashbacks.

The tabletop is attached to the cabinets from below using short self-tapping screws to horizontal spacers so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Countertops made from natural or artificial stone are higher quality and more durable than others. A natural stone heavy and demanding special care due to high porosity. A fake diamond has no such disadvantages, it can be given any size and shape. Main disadvantage stone countertops – high price, for a small kitchen they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a countertop made of tiles or porcelain stoneware. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on regular plywood or chipboard. The base must first be covered with cement-fiber sheets.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: lids, tabletops, walls, facades, shelves. Each part can be either nested or invoice. Right choice the type of location is very important.

Let's look at examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be hanging.

Base cabinet:

As can be seen in the photo, the operating stress in the floor-standing cabinet is directed downwards from the lid and in the first option is naturally transmitted through the parts to the cabinet legs.

In the second, incorrect option, the load is transmitted through the confirmat (furniture screw), and because of this it will be torn out of the part at a fracture.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

If we use the same fastening scheme here as in the floor cabinet (option 1), all 4 bolts will be constantly under the load of being pulled out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmations experience stress on the fracture (see diagram “correctly”).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware ( hardware), which are used to connect parts. Most often, connections are made at right angles.

Wooden dowels - inserted in advance drilled holes in both details. They are used for preliminary fixation and increasing the shear load, then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

Furniture corners are a popular, but outdated type of furniture fastening. Among the disadvantages: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

Euroscrew (confirmed) – furniture screw. This is the main fastener of parts in modern furniture. Furniture makers almost never use ordinary self-tapping screws. Confirmats have a larger thread, so they stay inside the chipboard much better.

The holes for them can be drilled directly on site. To do this, use a special drill that makes a hole with different diameters for the thread, neck and head of the Euroscrew. The most commonly used confirmats are 7*50 mm. Special attention when drilling, you need to pay attention to the perpendicularity of the drilling so as not to spoil the coating of the part through hole.

Furniture screws are tightened with a hex key or a screwdriver attachment. The caps for a Phillips screwdriver cannot be tightened tightly until the end.
The main disadvantage of this type of fastening is that screwed-in caps remain visible. To hide them, use plastic plugs matching the color of the chipboard.
Eccentric couplers – modern and The right way fastenings It leaves a hole with only inside products, but requires very precise drilling.

For getting required holes use a Forstner drill. There's not much point in going to the trouble of using them to assemble items that will be hidden, but they work well for attaching drawer doors.

Furniture fittings

From inexpensive manufacturers For fittings, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, from the serious ones in the world – the Austrian Blum.

Drawers and slides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The simplest of them is to assemble a perimeter from laminated chipboard. If a beautiful facade is required, it is screwed onto the main frame from the inside (like the tabletop). The façade can also be secured to eccentrics as the fourth wall of the drawer.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to secure it correctly.

Drawer guides are divided into roller or ball guides.

Doors for wardrobes

The sliding wardrobe can be separate (with side and back walls), or built into a niche or corner (with one side wall). Internal filling can be anything: regular shelves and mezzanines, drawers and baskets, clothes rails, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

Article on the topic: .

The main element of the wardrobe is sliding doors. You can’t save on them, you need to buy high-quality fittings, otherwise you’ll suffer with falling and jamming doors. In almost any city you can find domestic products in specialized stores. sliding systems Aristo is not a problem.

A sliding wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame into which they insert decorative elements: mirrors and glass, chipboard, rattan sheets, bamboo, artificial leather (based). Each door can be assembled from a combination of several such materials, which are separated aluminum profile. It is not recommended to make doors more than 1 m in width.

Standard profiles are designed for a sheet thickness of 10 mm. But how to insert a 4 mm thick mirror into it? To do this, put on the edge of the mirror silicone seal. So that in case of impact broken glass no one was hurt, you need to order a mirror with a film glued to the back side.

The doors move along guides; they are installed at the top and bottom. The lower doors provide forward and backward movement, and the upper ones fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock-absorbing spring and a screw for height adjustment. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.
With the right approach homemade furniture It turns out cheaper and better quality than what is displayed in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, precisely suited to the needs of the owners and the characteristics of the room.

Recently, they have become increasingly popular in the manufacture of furniture. corner connections slab materials with a miter bevel. In this article, our friend and colleague Sergei Novikov will share the secrets of making such a non-standard joint. Unlike a joint with an acute angle, which, firstly, is quite traumatic, and secondly, is itself susceptible to chipping and deformation with minimal impact, this option is free from the above-mentioned disadvantages.

So, first, using a tire, we file the mating edges at an angle of 45 degrees. In principle, this can be done with sawing machine, but a plunge-cut saw with a guide bar (in 2 passes) in relation to chipboard gives better results.

So, we get two parts with sharp corners, let's move on directly to connecting them.

To enhance the strength of the joint, we will need a lamellar router (I think we can get by with a regular one, but with special devices(so far there are only vague outlines in my head). These flat furniture dowels (slats) are inserted into the grooves selected by the slats.

They prevent the parts from moving during displacement, and also add strength to the final connection, significantly increasing the gluing surface.

We coat the mating surfaces with glue (any PVA-containing glue will do).

We connect the parts and clamp them with clamps until the glue dries completely. After removing the clamps, glue streaks remain on the corner - they do not need to be removed, because... Later they will fall off on their own.

The next step is to smooth the corner. It is carried out either with an angular cutter (45 degrees) or with a cylindrical cutter, but for this the router must have an angular base.

After cutting the corner, you get this trapezoidal profile. Now our task is to improve this corner. You can, of course, just paint it or stick an edge on it, but the edge will not stick, and when painting you won’t be able to get a neat, flat surface.

The cut must be puttied. IN in this case Automotive putty with fiberglass is used (what was on hand), but it is better to use more homogeneous mixtures.

Degrease the surface to be putty. The solution for this should not contain water. Apply the composition with a spatula, rubbing it into the pores and leveling.

After final drying, we finally smooth the surface with a sanding block with fine sandpaper. Now let's paint it over. Cheap spray paint will work for this.

We glue to protect the surface of the cut edge masking tape and cover with paint 2-3 times. For additional durability and shine, we open it with a layer of acrylic varnish.