Laying solid board begins with assessing the base and choosing a method for its preparation. Installation can be carried out different ways depending on specific circumstances. Although the work requires involvement significant amount time and effort, they can be done exclusively with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.
Before laying a solid board, you need to prepare the selected material:
Attention! Together with the solid floor board, all materials involved in the installation procedure are maintained under similar conditions.
Requirements for rough surface
It is necessary to lay a solid board on a carefully prepared base that meets the following requirements:
If the necessary conditions are met, you can proceed to the next stage.
Methods for laying solid boards
There are two main installation methods: with secure fixation to various types bases, where glue, screws and staples act as fasteners, or using the floating method - when exclusively a locking system is used for connection.
Most solid board models are connected by two types of locks On a note! It is necessary to carefully approach the choice of glue for solid boards. So, for a concrete base you will need a special two-component composition with high adhesion, and for a wooden flooring a one-component composition is suitable, but not water based(subject to additional fixation with staples or screws).
Laying the mass on a concrete or cement-sand screed
Work with cement or concrete screed begins after the base has dried, for this purpose the percentage of residual moisture is initially determined. This is easier to do using a special device, but purchasing it for one-time use is impractical, so you can use another method.
Only special equipment can give the exact moisture level of concrete.
At a short distance, 4 holes are drilled in the shape of a square, they are immediately covered with thick polyethylene and pressed on all sides. After 24-48 hours, the presence of condensation is checked: even a small amount of it indicates a residual humidity of more than 6%, which suggests the use of waterproofing. The floor should not be equipped with additional heating.
The process of laying solid wood on a screed without plywood is as follows:
Trimming in progress electric drill or a saw, the edge is processed with a file.
Mounting on plywood
This option is used in situations where the base has significant unevenness. The method is also suitable for laying material made of valuable wood species on joists that does not have the required thickness.
Plywood on screed
The process of preparing a screed with serious unevenness for laying an array is as follows:
It is necessary to pre-treat the screed with antiseptics, and if necessary, apply waterproofing.
After installation, the plywood flooring must be sanded well. On a wooden floor
If the coating is in good condition, then preparation proceeds according to the following scheme:
- Everything unnecessary is removed, the old one is removed decorative layer, the surface is polished.
- The condition of the boards and joists is assessed. If there is damage, the worn elements should be replaced.
- Old wood flooring fixed to the joists with new self-tapping screws.
- The plywood must be laid according to the same principle as in the previous version. But only self-tapping screws are used for fastening.
Old wooden floor should be leveled using plywood flooring Upon completion of preparation, solid parquet can be glued and screwed.
By lags
This technology is used if there is a need to lay additional insulation or communications. Also this a good option for apartments with very uneven rough screed.
You can independently prepare the base for the array as follows:
- The logs are set according to level. It is necessary to achieve perfect evenness; for this, a system of securely fixed compensation pads is used.
- Sheets of plywood are laid on top and screwed on with self-tapping screws, the caps are recessed.
- The coating is sanded and cleaned of dirt.
- Decorative material is laid on top across the joists.
Installing flooring on joists allows you to insulate the floor and conduct communications under it In exceptional cases and with significant thickness of the boards, installation can be carried out directly on the joists. But longer and more complex preparation will be required, and the process itself requires relevant experience, so it is not suitable for doing it yourself.
Installation diagram of solid boards along joists Regardless of the preparation method, laying solid boards on plywood has general technology:
When joining, the planks are tightly tucked into rows To perform the installation beautifully, the scheme is thought out in advance, but it will be extremely difficult to perfectly match the wood pattern.
"Floating" solid wood floor
Floating flooring is carried out if there is installed system warm floors or if the room's humidity may change by more than 5–10%. The technology of the method is that the fragments are placed on a special substrate and fixed only to each other. Also, gaps of 5–10 mm are left from the wall.
Algorithm of actions:
- Marking is carried out, the order and layout of the first row are determined.
- The underlay is laid.
- The initial parts are fixed using a locking method. To prevent their shift, the size of the gap from the walls is set; for this, solid wedges are used.
- The second and subsequent rows are additionally fixed with staples (screws) or glue, which is used to coat the lock. But in the second option, it will be impossible to disassemble the floor to replace damaged parts.
The floating installation method requires the presence of a soft substrate This technology provides maximum flexibility, but a perfectly flat base will be required.
Sanding and protective coating
If the material used has not been processed previously, then after a week the following actions are additionally performed:
- The surface is subjected to scraping with hand or electric tools. If the coating is in perfect condition, then only sanding is done.
- The floor is thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt.
- To protect and enhance the decorative effect, various compositions are used: stains, oils, varnishes. Required option is selected based on the specific situation and the desired effect. Greater reliability is created by varnish, which is applied with a spray gun in 2–5 layers. If it is necessary to change the shade of the wood, then a suitable stain is used. Oils improve and highlight the natural color of the material.
If necessary, the solid board is varnished You should know! Only products installed with glue and screws are processed; the process is not suitable for the “floating” method.
A combination of oils and varnish is not allowed; it is applied only as an independent protective and decorative layer or after staining.
Laying solid boards - covering floor mounting, the elements of which differ significantly from parquet in their parameters. During the work, the process includes some features. Only a specialist with the skills and professionalism of a master can lay out the floor evenly and correctly with a board. All preparatory stages will be done with high accuracy and taking into account errors.
Characteristics of a quality board
The massive board has a cut at each end, which helps in the interlocking connection of two such elements. It is made by milling and makes it possible to tightly join two boards together using the tongue-and-groove method.
As the main material for flooring, the board has its own dimensions, quality and installation specifics. In terms of installation time, each linear (or square) meter will be sold much faster than parquet blocks.
Floor array dimensions:
- in length - 0.6-3 m;
- wide - 6-20 cm;
- thickness - 15-22 mm.
Solid wood differs from parquet board in length, thickness, width and even smoothness. Permissible roughness for floor wooden covering according to the standard - 125 mm.
For both types of materials, thickness plays a key role in determining durability. The thicker the board, the longer the wooden floor will last. The thinnest ones (0.7 cm) are excellent for scraping, and not for arranging the strength of the coating.
Preparation for laying solid boards
To carry out high-quality work, the following conditions must be met:
- The room temperature should be between +18 and +25 degrees Celsius.
- Humidity levels should not go beyond the range of 45-65 percent.
- The space should be free, not blocked by tools or parts of building materials.
- Immediately after the board is delivered to the site, it is not laid. You need to wait until it rests for about two to three days.
The packaged board should only be opened by workers and before the actual installation work. Before the arrival of specialists, you will need to first bring the surface to a clean condition.
Base for laying solid boards
The board must be laid out on a specific base. Work cannot be carried out if the floor in a private house is earthen or consists of reinforced concrete floors V apartment building. First, a base is made - a concrete screed. Then you can choose:
- Lay the boards directly on the new (or old, but strong) screed.
- Or cover everything with sheet plywood and install a board floor on top of it.
- Or use an existing, strong plank floor as the base surface.
If there are “warm floor” systems, solid boards are not used. During the heating process, the wood will dry out, crack, and the coating will quickly fail. In such cases, laying specialized piece parquet, if the customer wants to have a wooden floor covering.
Phased work
Algorithm of actions when laying solid boards:
- Studying the surface on which the boards will be laid.
- If necessary, adjust the underlying basis.
- Measurements and calculations (if necessary).
- Application of waterproofing material.
- Flooring of plywood sheets impregnated with resins and other moisture-resistant substances.
- The first stage of grinding is preparatory.
- Lay out the boards.
- The second stage of sanding is thorough, including sealant and putty.
- Painting, tinting or varnishing.
You can lay a solid board, refined different coatings: oils, tinting, or varnish. But working with such material will cost a little more. For example, a varnished board with an additive for glue (or self-tapping screws) can be laid for 1,250 rubles per 1 sq.m. And when using wide elements (over 120 mm) - from 1450 rubles for 1 square meter.
Prices for preparing the base for installation
| Grinding the screed | 150 rub. sq. m. |
| Mapping the levelness of the base | 70 rub. sq. m. |
| Priming the screed. Under mastic or glue | 70 rub. sq. m. |
| Vapor-waterproofing device under plywood. Reinforced polyethylene and mastic. | 150 rub. sq. m. |
| Vapor-waterproofing device under plywood. Two-component vapor-waterproofing primer in two layers | 100 rub. sq. m. |
| Dismantling plywood or parquet without saving the material | 170 rub. sq. m. |
| Dismantling parquet boards and underlay without preserving the material | 220 rub. sq. m. |
| Dismantling parquet boards while preserving the material | 350 rub. sq. m. |
| Dismantling solid boards without saving material | 310 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying plywood with offset. Including dowels, screws and drills | 250 rub. sq. m. |
| Sawing a sheet of plywood into four parts (750/750 mm square), including saw blades. | 100 rub. sq. m. |
| Sawing a sheet of plywood into 64 pieces (190/190 mm square), including saw blades. | 700 rub. sq. m. |
| Sanding plywood (machine SO-206 + ELAN), including abrasive materials. | 150 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying plywood with glue in small squares (190/190 mm) | 450 rub. sq. m. |
| Strengthening plywood (by drilling) | 150 rub. sq. m. |
Price for laying parquet: turnkey and individual works
| Laying parquet boards, laminate - floating method | 450 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying varnished engineered/parquet boards using glue and screws. Including self-tapping screws. | 1150 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying block parquet using glue and nails. Deck, herringbone, squares | 750 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying solid boards with glue and screws. Including self-tapping screws | 1050 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying varnished parquet | 1050 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying varnished solid boards using glue and screws. Including self-tapping screws | 1250 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying varnished solid boards with glue and screws, more than 120 mm wide | 1450 rub. sq. m. |
| Installing a cork threshold when laying parquet | 800 rub. sq. m. |
| Installing a cork threshold when laying varnished parquet + varnish protection | 1400 rub. sq. m. |
The floor covering is installed at the final stage of renovation. All installations must be completed at least two months before the start of installation. interior work, causing an increase in humidity in the room. At the time of installation relative humidity air should be 40–60% at a temperature of 18–24°C.
Laying solid boards on a screed without plywood, plank floors or chipboards using a floating method is suitable for small rooms, the main thing is that the base is level, strong and dry. It should also be taken into account that heavy furniture can deform the floor.
The presence of a tongue and groove or “Click” lock makes it easy to install solid planks. This allows you to lay the floor "floating" without connecting to the base. You can lay the array yourself, armed with knowledge on the Internet or taking advice from familiar professionals.The advantages of this installation:
- high installation speed;
- the cost of laying solid boards (no need to buy glue and other components);
- ease of installation - installation can be carried out by one person;
- the absence of rigid attachment to the base, which allows the floor to move freely during thermal compression or expansion of the wood.
For independent conduct Installation requires the following tools:
Before laying a solid board, it is necessary to assess the condition of the screed.
IMPORTANT: natural flooring requires an absolutely flat, clean surface. All interior work must be completed before installing the board.
The basis is required check for moisture. For this purpose, there is a device that measures its performance as a percentage. Ignoring the measurement at the first stage means soon getting:
— fungus (it can easily grow in a humid environment);
- warping (under the influence of dampness, the floor can swell and deform).
The best solution is to invite a specialist. The moisture meter should show no more than 2%. There was an opinion that it was possible to do without the device. It is necessary to leave a piece of polyethylene pressed to the screed overnight. In the morning, inspect the area under it and if perspiration appears, it means the humidity is increased. German scientists, having conducted such a study, found out: in the place where the evaporation did not come out, the moisture meter showed 6%.
Test of strength will provide a guarantee for long-term use of the coating. You can conduct research yourself:
- Walk around it. It crumbles under your feet, you can feel the sand - the worst option. This screed needs to be redone.
- Inspect carefully. Visible chips and depressions must be filled with putty.
- If it is visually flawless, it is worth walking over the screed with a sharp object. On perfect coverage there will be no damage left.
For laying a wooden floor, the following base indicators will be excellent: compression – 25 MPa, shear – 7 MPa. Accurate indicators will be recorded by a device - a Schmidt hammer, which calculates the shock impulse under an applied load (another name is a sclerometer).
An epoxy two-component primer will help to further strengthen the base.
In addition to strength and moisture, It is worth paying attention to how level the base is. Acceptable rate height difference – 2 mm per 2 linear meters. Deviation from the norm in a larger direction will change the geometry of the floor. A two-meter strip or building code(whatever is at hand). They need to be passed along the base and checked for tight fit of the slats to the floor. The identified recesses should be filled with putty, and the protrusions should be sanded.
ATTENTION. After graduation preparatory work debris, sand, dust should be removed. Thoroughly vacuum the surface and prime it. At the exit before laying, the screed must be smooth and clean.
Substrate
The next stage of work is laying the substrate. It compensates for minor flaws, protects against moisture penetration and creates additional sound insulation. For “floating installation” use the following types substrates:
- made of foamed polyethylene;
- cork;
- rubber;
- fabric.
Temperature and humidity gaps
Paul from natural wood, laid in a floating manner, reacts much more to temperature and humidity indicators than. It is important to leave gaps around the perimeter of the room, taking into account all elements that come into contact with the board (heating pipes, doors). When expanding, the board will have room to “move.” If they are missing, the floor covering will swell. Gaps are left 10 - 15 mm per meter. With a width of 3 meters, 3 * 10 = 3 cm should be left. For ease of installation and to prevent displacement, wedges are used. They are placed over the entire contacting area. Afterwards, all the gaps will be hidden under the decorative plinth.
Screed mounting
Before installing the floor, it is necessary for the material to lie in the room for 2–3 days. It is not advisable to open the packaging. A sharp temperature fluctuation will cause the array to change. First of all, you need to cull. Do not lay boards damaged during transportation. They must be returned or replaced before the installation of solid boards begins.
Lay out - from the far left corner deck or diagonally
, perpendicular to the window. This technique is important technologically and aesthetically. 
REFERENCE. The joining seams must be shifted at a certain pitch to strengthen the connections. For an array, the spacing should be at least 40 cm.
The first board is placed with the ridge against the wall. The next boards are inserted into the groove and tapped with a hammer. The blows should not be strong, knock only on the block. After laying three rows, spacer wedges are placed between the wall and the edge of the parquet floor. Having planted the board in the center, smoothly move, tapping, to the edges. Additionally, the dies are attached one to another with glue.
Shutdown
The last row should be laid after measuring the distance to the wall. Since walls always have a certain curvature, the values will differ. Each board must be customized separately longitudinal cut to the required size at the installation site (remember the expansion gaps). For the convenience of working near the wall, where there is always little space, you need to use a mounting paw. It will help press one board tightly against another.
Remove the spacer wedges and... His should be attached directly to the wall. Then it will not interfere with the free movement of the floor when narrowing or expanding.
On plywood
Necessary materials:
- grinding machine (or wheel);
- electric jigsaw;
- construction vacuum cleaner;
- primer;
- glue for solid boards;
- plywood – 10 mm;
- spatulas (including those with teeth);
- roulette;
- pencil;
- square;
- coating (varnish, wax).
Plywood – good basis for natural boards. It is attached to a screed, joists, or wooden floor. If concrete base V poor condition you need to refill it to make it even. Allowing time for shrinkage and drying self-leveling screed, sand it thoroughly. All the smallest irregularities should be eliminated. Remove dust construction vacuum cleaner. Coat the entire surface with epoxy primer. You should pause for complete drying. 
Cut plywood sheets into rectangular pieces to cover the entire surface. Before installation, for a firm fit of the sheets, glue is applied to the screed. Next, the plywood is attached to the cement base with dowels.
Particular attention should be paid to the corners. It is also recommended to leave temperature gaps here: 1.5 cm around the perimeter, 2 -3 mm between the rectangles themselves.
Sand the surface, remove dust, and you can begin laying the solid wood on plywood. Before laying a solid board, the plywood is coated with two-component glue to the width of one board.
Glue
A universal adhesive consisting of polyurethane mixtures and a hardener is suitable. We recommend choosing an odorless, water- and solvent-free glue. Which does not cause allergic reactions when it comes into contact with human skin, dries quickly and firmly holds natural wood coatings. German manufacturers adhere to such a high standard. 
- During installation, you must ensure that the ridge fits into the groove, carefully tapping the board along its entire length. To increase strength, each board is secured with self-tapping screws every 25–30 cm. After installation is complete, clean the entire floor surface.
- First, the array should be driven well into the groove, and only then nailed.
- It’s realistic to buy a quality floor cheaper. You need to take an untreated board from a hardware store, carefully sand it, clean it from dust and apply varnish. At self-processing you can save 25% of the cost of the same material with an already applied coating or buy it.
- For temperature gaps, it is better to insert two dies onto one board.
CAREFULLY. When installing using glue, you need to be extremely careful. If you put a lot of glue, you can ruin the floor - it will come out from above when you tap the dies with a hammer. At first, small spots on the surface are invisible. They will be “revealed” by daylight. It is difficult to remove dried inclusions. A special cleaner will be required. It should be used while working.
- After installation is complete, the natural solid wood floor should remain undisturbed for 24 hours.
- To extend the service life, it is recommended to observe temperature and humidity conditions when operating the premises.
- Use in cleaning special means for care.
- Do not flood the floor with water.
- Under computer chair put a spring mat.
- Pets (cats, dogs) running across the floor can quickly render it unusable. A durable, improved coating will protect the surface. True, the price of such products is high.
Useful video
How to lay solid wood
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Such flooring material, as a solid board, is very popular today. He has a large number of positive aspects, from high strength to very presentable appearance. By external design it is similar to parquet board, but, unlike it, it is a solid wood. When choosing a way to lay solid boards on the floor, you first need to think about whether it’s worth it. Costs! With this design, the floor will last much longer, and its operation is practical.
Solid wood boards are an environmentally friendly, strong and durable material.
Such a floor covering is not afraid of exposure to aggressive factors, moreover, it is easy to work with by grinding, and the load on such a material can be absolutely any.
To implement it yourself, you must first decide on the method. In addition, this process is carried out only when the repair is almost completed. To make your work easier, it is recommended to study in more detail the features of such a board and how to choose it correctly.
Choosing the right board
In order for the floor to serve properly, special attention should be paid to the finishing material. Its quality directly determines how much the result will satisfy its owner.
Therefore, there are points that it is advisable to pay more attention to when purchasing a solid board:
- Design Today, massive boards are produced absolutely different variations. Therefore, it must be selected in accordance with the future interior. There shouldn't be any problems with this, since this material has a wide color palette, and this is not to mention the structure. To make such a board, both ordinary wood and more expensive “exotic” wood can be used. The most common option is beech. Such boards have warm colors and are highly durable. But there is also a peculiarity - they are sensitive to moisture. Therefore, if this indicator is increased in the room where the installation of solid boards will take place, it is better to opt for teak, larch and other similar trees.
- Quality and geometry of the material When choosing boards, you should carefully check the surface for cracks and similar defects. The edges of the planks deserve special attention so that firing is not used to finish them. If such a moment is observed, then you can be sure that the drying technology was carried out incorrectly. When laying such a massive board, the desired effect will not be achieved; the floor will look sloppy. As for geometric shapes, it is very important that the elements are seamlessly attached to each other. The surface should not have protrusions or dips, since such a defect will cause the laid floor surface to be uneven.
- Documentation. High quality material always has certificates in which the manufacturer provides the consumer with maximum information about your product. Having studied them, you should see how the drying was carried out. If convective type technology was followed, then this is the kind of massive board that should be purchased. The humidity indicator should not exceed 9%.
- GOST certificates. This documentation indicates that the solid board was produced by serious companies. In addition, responsible manufacturers present information regarding their material as clearly as possible.
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Basic installation methods
When laying a solid board, you should thoroughly prepare the base. The choice of working method will depend on this.
Boards can be placed on several types of bases:
- cement-concrete or simply concrete screed;
- plywood;
- natural wood;
- logs;
- staples.
Most often they use the first option, that is, a screed. In order to carry out installation, glue is used, which has a high index relative to temperature changes, but is absolutely non-toxic to humans.
When laying a solid board on a cement-concrete or concrete screed, you should check it for strength and see if there is any damage to it in the form of unevenness, cracks or chips. It is best if such a surface has 6-7% humidity, otherwise you will have to take care of waterproofing.
As for plywood, this method is also often used. But there is also a nuance here.
To lay a solid board on plywood, you should remember about the vapor barrier layer.
The moisture level of the material should not exceed 10%, and for the installation itself, two-component glue is used. To secure the edges you will need air gun with 30 cm stilettos.
The convenience of the method of laying on logs lies in the speed of installation work. There is no need to worry about cement mortars. Placed under the joists waterproofing material, which is preferably used on the basis of a film made of polyethylene or penofol.
A few words about staples. Builders call this method “floating”. Using it, it is possible to save 30-40% on installation work.
The technology for laying aluminum products involves installation together with silicone expansion joints, which provide improved edge bonding.
It also happens that a massive board is laid on top of an old wooden covering. But in this case, you should be sure that it still retains its reliability and strength, and the moisture level of the material is 8-10%.
If the old base has varnished coating, then it must be removed, after which the surface is thoroughly sanded. This is done in order to eliminate any unevenness. It should also be noted that when installing solid boards, you should follow the same direction as the previous coating. To secure them, you should stock up with self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion coating.
Having familiarized yourself with each method, you can, after weighing all the pros and cons, choose the one that is most convenient in a particular case.
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Preparatory stage of installation
In addition to the fact that the workspace must be prepared, you should also stock up on the necessary tools:
The rows between solid boards are secured using staples or glue placed in the groove.
- metal ruler;
- with a simple pencil;
- spatula;
- carpenter's square;
- pneumatic stapler;
- screwdriver and drill;
- wooden mallet;
- self-tapping screws.
Regarding fastening elements, there is the following recommendation: it is better to take self-tapping screws that have anti-corrosion properties electroplating. This type of element does not rust, and they also tend to smooth out the effects of seasonal influences. Some people think that you can use nails that are specifically designed for hardwood floors, but this is not true.
WITH bottom side use stainless steel staples. They are used to fix two elements by snapping them into grooves or fastening them using screw-in screws.
As noted above, if the method of laying on a screed is chosen, then in no case should they come into contact with each other. An intermediate layer should be created, for which a primer mastic and vapor barrier film. All gaps that form in the joints are glued.
Currently, it is one of the most popular and sought-after natural wood floor coverings. This increased interest is understandable: solid wood floors are reliable, durable, beautiful and prestigious. However, a solid floor will show its wonderful properties only if:
there is a board of decent quality;
accompanying materials are correctly selected;
The laying technology is strictly followed.
In this article we will focus on the last two points.
Solid wood board installation technology
For assembly, in the vast majority of cases, rigid fastening technology is used flooring to the base. This installation method has a number of advantages: it provides a high degree of reliability and comfort, guarantees durability and strength of the structure, and makes it possible quality repairs and updating the parquet floor.
Method of rigid attachment to the base involves gluing each individual board to a previously prepared surface of the subfloor. In this case, the board should be pressed as tightly as possible to the base while it dries completely. adhesive composition. To ensure that this condition is met, they usually fix the board to the base using self-tapping screws or use the downforce of a heavy load installed on top of the floor covering. The specificity of the method lies not only in compliance with all the mandatory requirements of installation technology, but also in knowledge of the properties and characteristics of the materials used. Let's talk about this in more detail.
Specifics of the method
To begin with, let's note main feature solid wood floors: wood is a living material that is sensitive to changing conditions environment. Knowing that wood can change its properties and understanding cause-and-effect relationships makes it possible to reduce errors in the process of laying and using solid boards to zero.
1. Optimal conditions to carry out work
Before starting installation, you should definitely take care to create favorable working conditions.
Laying solid boards should be carried out after all wet work has been completed. Otherwise, it can greatly affect the humidity in the room, which in turn will lead to deformation of the floor.
The room in which production will take place parquet work, should be well lit.
2. Selection of materials for laying solid boards
Make a list of the tools and materials needed for the job.
Moisture-resistant plywood thickness 15-20 mm is the best material for use as a base on which a solid board is attached with glue and screws: it perfectly holds the screws, stabilizes the “parquet cake” structure well and improves the thermal insulation of the floor.
Natural cork 2-4 mm thick can be glued for additional sound insulation, and also as a lower leveling layer.
Primer necessary to improve adhesion (cohesion of surfaces) when gluing various types base of the floor with a layer of plywood, cork or solid board.
Glue for the installation of solid boards - one of the most important components of the quality of the “parquet cake”. The durability of the finished parquet floor directly depends on the choice.
Self-tapping screws are used to ensure that the board is pressed against the plywood during its gluing to the base. The choice of shape, size and number of screws depends on the specific purpose of their use.
Silicone sealant Designed for filling expansion joints between parquet floors and indoor walls. The sealant will protect the ends of the plywood and boards from moisture penetration and prevent possible deformation of the parquet.
Materials for finishing parquet (varnish, oil) may be needed to apply a protective surface layer if the board does not have a factory finish.
Care products used for professional cleaning and additional protection board surface.
Set of tools. To lay solid boards you will need the following tools: saw, hammer, sharp knife, marking square, drill, screwdriver, chisel, spatula, tape measure, pencil, wooden hammer, spacer wedges, mounting paw.
3. Preparing the base for laying solid boards
Before you begin installing the board, check the quality of the prepared base.
Solid wood parquet flooring is multilayer construction. The basis of the “parquet cake” can be a concrete floor, screed, wooden subfloor or a joist system.
Regardless of the type of base used, it must be level, dry, durable and clean.
The evenness of the base is checked over the entire area of the upcoming installation, using a rule of at least 2 meters in length. The clearance between the base and the rule should not exceed 2-3 mm over a length of 2000 mm. If necessary, the base should be leveled in accordance with the specified requirements.
It is recommended to use as an additional soundproofing layer natural cork 2-4 mm thick.
The ideal base for gluing solid boards is a layer moisture resistant plywood, comparable to the thickness of the board. The plywood must also be securely attached to the wood or concrete base using glue and screws.
If additional fastening with self-tapping screws is not possible, you should use exclusively two-component polyurethane glue and sheets of plywood with an area of no more than 0.25 m2 each. The surface of the plywood must be sanded, and the plywood itself must be laid in compliance with a technological gap of 5 mm wide between the sheets.
All layers of the “parquet cake” must be firmly glued to each other.
It is unacceptable to use heated floors as a base!
4. Solid board layout diagram
A pre-drawn plan of your future floor will help you avoid unnecessary corrections during the work - think through the layout of the board in detail, or better yet, draw it on a sheet of paper. Try to adhere to the following rules.
Decide on the direction of laying out the boards in each room. Usually the board is laid in the direction of what is falling into the room. daylight. In elongated rooms, it is recommended to lay solid boards in the longitudinal direction (material waste will be 3-5%). The rooms are complicated geometric shape you can lay the board diagonally (material waste will be 7-10%).
As a rule, solid boards are sold in a set of lengths; in other words, the package will contain boards different lengths. When laying, this should be taken into account: use short boards at the beginning or end of the row, in places under furniture and in utility rooms.
5. Step-by-step instruction for laying solid boards on a finished base
Who to entrust the work to?
Now you know everything about the technology of assembling solid floors. But don’t rush to put new knowledge into practice—the first steps in any business rarely lead to ideal results. Shouldn't be converted own house in the field of experimentation, it is much safer to entrust the laying of solid boards to professional parquet floorers. And the knowledge obtained with our help is better used to assess the level of professionalism of the master and control his work.
When choosing a contractor to lay solid boards,
look for a specialist with a narrow focus: a parquet master;
check his qualifications: work experience, certificates of completion of professional courses and seminars, recommendations, reviews and portfolio of objects;
make sure that the master has necessary tools and equipment;
read the text of the contract and the contractor's warranty obligations.
Of course, it is best to look for craftsmen in a large parquet company. Ideally, in the same salon where the solid board was purchased. By ordering parquet from one company, you will place full responsibility for the quality of parquet floors on it.
Summary
Installation of natural wood flooring is a labor-intensive and responsible process that requires special knowledge and professional skills. Succeed in this not an easy task The tips below will help.
Start parquet work in last resort, after completing all wet work.
Carefully study the description of the solid floor assembly technology.
Use only high-quality materials that are truly necessary for installation. Follow the recommendations of the manufacturers of the materials used.
Check the subfloor to ensure it meets recommended specifications.
Consider options for laying out the board in each room.
Entrust the execution of work and the selection of related materials to professionals from a reputable parquet company.
When hiring a specialist, always enter into a contract agreement.