Laying paving slabs yourself - process technology. Technology for laying paving slabs - consider the main nuances of the process Laying large paving slabs with your own hands

Do you want to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands and be satisfied with the result? Simplicity of technology wide choose and the low cost of the starting material will allow this work to be completed quickly and efficiently - this will require minimal repair skills and simple tools.

How to lay paving slabs - choose the material yourself

Sidewalk tiles look great both on the site and as a finishing material for paths, courtyards and areas in private homes. The obvious requirement for starting such work is a sufficient area of ​​street surface for cladding, small areas and it’s hard to lay out, and the design effect leaves much to be desired. Bad weather will complicate our installation, so it is advisable to work without wind or rain. Range paving slabs huge - both in the size of the elements and in their color, texture and complexity of articulation. When choosing, you should take into account the strength of the future path; it directly depends on the thickness of the elements:

• Up to 40 mm inclusive allows walking and cycling;
• Tiles up to 50 mm thick can withstand a passenger car;
• Bars from 60 mm can easily “cope” with the weight of the truck.

To master the intricacies of laying, it is wise to choose simple, rectangular or square tiles. It is better to start such work when tiling the path - on a narrow “front” it is much easier to understand how to lay paving slabs with your own hands correctly and consistently. Vast surfaces of carved multi-colored concrete are often laid by entire construction teams, and without experience, and especially alone, they can pave own yard Not recommended.

Quantity rectangular tiles for a straight track it is easy to calculate, making a reserve of 10-15% for possible defects during delivery and installation. Borders will definitely be required - they will become natural boundaries during installation, strong side surfaces to prevent the “creeping” of our prefabricated mosaic. The height of the borders should be several times greater than the thickness of the selected tile; this is necessary for proper installation of the multi-layer base. It is better to leave round and shaped blocks for the next stages of landscaping. Diagonal or circular laying is not only associated with high material consumption, but also with the difficulty of cutting and installing curved elements.

The price of paving slabs depends on their abrasion resistance, impact strength and the cost of color pigments. In general, the material is inexpensive; it is quite possible to choose high-quality samples for installation “testing”.

How to lay paving slabs - we prepare the base with our own hands

How to correctly lay paving slabs without prior experience in such work largely depends on the quality of the base. Preparing many types of repairs is much longer and more difficult than the work itself - the same kitchen panels or laminate flooring on a flat base can be installed quickly and easily. The picture is similar with paving slabs. Every preparatory stage must be done responsibly and without haste; thoroughness is more important than speed records.

How to prepare the base for paving slabs - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Marking

We drive in pegs and visually outline the route of the future path with twine or cord tied to them. You should walk along the marked area, assess its width and the presence of problem areas. It is much easier to move a few pegs with string than to heroically uproot a century-old stump at the site of future installation. Do not consider the markup to be something monolithic - it is quite susceptible to adjustment, and more than once.

Step 2: Drainage – is it ours or not?

Drainage works at self-installation paving slabs are divided into two types. Internal drainage necessary for clayey, swampy soils. It must be carried out immediately after digging a trench, laying down a slope at earthworks ah and laying drainage drains (pipes).

External drainage is the same slope, but narrower than the tiles themselves to one of the edges of the sidewalk. If the laying width is small and the climate is dry, it can be neglected, but a long-term and smart solution is to slope the sidewalk surface towards the curb for further water drainage. The slope is sufficiently 2-3˚, ​​in addition, some of the moisture will escape through the cracks between the tiles.

Step 3: Foundation

We remove turf, soil or any other old covering to a depth of about 20 cm using a good bayonet shovel. As a result of excavation work, you should get a flat and wide ditch; we remove the soil from its bottom with a shovel. At the same time, we are engaged in the fight against remnants of vegetation. Roots or any sprouts should be removed so that later they do not justify the poetic lines “And trees grow on stones.” Because stones with a tree unexpectedly growing through them will become your man-made path! Repairing a sidewalk damaged by roots is labor-intensive and complicated; you should try to avoid it at the preparatory stage.

One curb is installed at the bottom of the trench (yes, just one for now), and a layer of gravel or crushed stone of fractions from 10 to 20 is laid - that is, quite small. Now you should select a line for installing the second border in such a way that the entire space is filled with whole tiles (here’s another benefit of rectangular bars!). The mounting gaps should be 2-3 millimeters wide, no more. We install the second curb, strictly parallel, and firmly concrete both borders of the path. The solution is mixed using cement grades of at least 300, the ratio of cement to sand is 1:2.

We level the layer of gravel, its thickness is approximately 10 cm. Now sand is poured onto the gravel pad - large and wet, do not confuse it with installation sand! The height from the curb edge to the sand base should remain approximately one and a half thickness of the tile. The poured sand is watered abundantly and after a few hours it is compacted using a hand tamper. The solid foundation is ready. The next day, you can begin laying the exclusive sidewalk, if the strength of the installed curbs allows. If not, postpone the procedure for another day.

How to lay paving slabs correctly - installation instructions

A common mistake is trying to lay paving slabs with your own hands while being on a sand base. The entire installation is carried out without leaving the already laid tiles, and always in dry weather. Its sequence:

How to lay paving slabs correctly - step by step diagram

Step 1: Prepare the mounting mixture

Ordinary fine sand, always dry, will also work as such. It can also be laid on a cement-sand mixture, in a ratio of three to four volume fractions of sand per one cement. But such installation will make our path inseparable in the future. The thickness of the dry mixture is about 3-4 centimeters.

Step 2: Set up the beacons and fill in the mounting mixture

If the path is wide, the sand is leveled along the beacons. They are installed according to the level, and one beacon should be higher than the other by an average of 1 cm per meter of path width, this is necessary for water drainage. It is best to use steel or aluminum tubes as beacons (necessarily even!) - they can be easily removed from the sandy surface after it has been leveled. The installation of beacon tubes is carried out on two sand cushions, poured onto a prepared base.

For a narrow sidewalk, it is permissible to level the installation mixture directly between the curbs; again, it is necessary to slope it to allow water to drain. A bucket or other container with sand should be at hand, as well as a trowel, mallet and the tiles themselves.

Step 3: Our first row is the most important

The accuracy, strength and aesthetic appearance of the entire tiled structure depend on the first rows. Measure and stretch the line to facilitate precision work. We take the first block and install it 3-5 millimeters from the curb. The level checks the longitudinal quality of the installation - the transverse one will have a drainage slope, it is necessary to ensure its consistency. Therefore, the fishing line is pulled precisely in the transverse direction - it does not coincide with the horizon, but follows the set slope.

Install the bars tightly and evenly one next to the other, leaving no more than 2 mm of gap; this is filled later with the same sand. Each tile is rammed with a mallet or rubber hammer in height, when there is no doubt about the accuracy of installation on the plane. And this will be clear when the entire row is laid out from one border to another. If a corner collapses, remove the block and add sand. An element sticks out - remove excess sand from under it. Don’t be afraid to redo the first rows several times; they set the quality of the entire tiled surface.

Step 4: Mortises and Seams

All non-integer elements are mounted in last resort. It’s easier to place them at the installation site and visually mark the cutting line than to measure remotely and theoretically. Cutting paving slabs with a grinder diamond blade. You can cut it with a regular hacksaw for metal, but the speed of such work will leave much to be desired. So it's wise to stock up on power tools, a few discs and eye protection.

At the end of the work, small cracks are filled with cement mortar with a high content of liquid glass for resistance in bad weather. Installation joints between tiles are covered with sand or sand-cement mixture. Then, using a hose with a narrow sprayer, you need to carefully go through all the seams, “pushing” the sand as deep as possible. A similar procedure is performed several times, each time adding a new portion of the bulk mixture. The long-term integrity of our efforts depends on the tight filling of the assembly seams.

You can walk on the new path in a couple of days; the structure should set and remain stable. Paving slabs should be swept and hosed down regularly. How brighter paint– the more often the cleaning, the deeper the patterns – the more difficult it is to remove dirt from them. IN winter time Ice and snow are removed without the use of metal tools, which can damage the paint layer. Sidewalk tiles should not be sprinkled with abrasive mixtures or other chemicals - for anti-slip properties it is better to use clean sand. With proper care, a man-made path will last for several decades.

Ecology of consumption. Estate: There are several technologies for laying tiles. It is possible - on a layer of cement mixture and over time the entire surface turns into a monolith. But it also happens that the tiles will need to be disassembled. Therefore the best, the most practical way- laying tiles on a sand base.

There are several technologies for laying tiles. It is possible - on a layer of cement mixture and over time the entire surface turns into a monolith. But it also happens that the tiles will need to be disassembled. Therefore, the best, most practical way is to lay the tiles on a sand base.

To do this you will need a trowel, metal or wooden stakes, a cord, a building level, a rubber hammer, a wooden mallet, a hose, a rake, a broom, profiles, manual tamper, channel, sand, crushed stone fraction 10-20 (20-50) or gravel, cement 400 (500) or dry plaster mixture, geotextiles, paving slabs 50-60 mm thick, for parking lots - 70-80 mm, curb stones.

First draw a plan drawing. Based on it, calculate how much tiles, sand, crushed stone or gravel, and cement are needed.

Using a tape measure and pegs, cord or twine, mark paths and areas for laying tiles. Check everything “in reality” by going through the planned plan.

To avoid having to cut the tiles later, it is necessary to make the length and width of the paving area multiples of the dimensions of the purchased tiles. It is better to avoid such cutting so that the coating is more durable.

Install the curbs first. They may be slightly higher or level with the path. Their main task is to keep the path from spreading.

The main thing is to carefully complete the base for the tiles. This is what guarantees the quality and durability of the future path.

First, remove the old covering or, if there is none, the turf to a depth of 15-20 cm. And no roots or seeds! It is necessary to plan water flow and drainage, especially in clay soil. To ensure that water flows to the edges of the site, transverse or longitudinal slopes are made.

In any case, whether the tiles are laid on liquid solution, dry mixture or sand, crushed stone or sand cushion is always used as the base.

First, we lay and compact crushed stone or gravel. On top is an intermediate layer of sand 3-5 cm thick. Geotextiles can be laid between the crushed stone and sand to ensure free flow of water.

Tamping on a sunny day is done after a couple of hours, and in cloudy weather - the next day.

As the top layer of the base, you can use a ready-made dry mixture or a cement-sand mixture prepared by yourself in a ratio of 1 to 3. Fill the mixture with a layer of 3-4 cm and level the surface with a rake. Make a channel final alignment surfaces.

Attention! The tiles should be laid away from you. Each subsequent tile should adhere as tightly as possible to the previous one. A gap of 1-2 mm is enough to fill with dry mixture or sand. We compact the laid tiles with a wooden mallet. If the tile sags, put sand under it with a trowel and level it with a tamper. At the end of installation, level the protrusions with a rubber hammer.

And one more piece of advice. Sand for a mixture with impurities of any salts cannot be used, especially when laying colored tiles: due to impurities, ugly white stains may appear on the path in the future.

Having laid the tiles, we check the site again. Having eliminated the protrusions and irregularities, sprinkle all the seams with a dry cement-sand mixture, sweep away the excess and use a hose with a sprayer to moisten the mixture in the gaps.

Paving slabs require maintenance. It needs to be cleaned regularly and washed from time to time. And in winter you can’t use it to clear snow from paths. metal tool, so as not to tile surface. Do not damage the tiles with varnishes, paints or other chemicals. published

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Paving slabs are an aesthetic and functional decoration for a personal plot. It allows you to give a well-groomed appearance to the garden space and facilitates the movement of people and equipment. Attractive price, ease of use and ease of installation have made it a popular material among developers. Such paths and platforms look very attractive. The market offers a wide range of types of paving slabs from various materials, various shapes and color solutions. And the varied texture will allow you to choose a material to suit any design and landscape.

Paving slabs are very popular because they have a number of positive qualities. Except not high price and ease of installation, it is environmentally friendly and has durable properties. If necessary, you can always replace the damaged area without compromising the integrity of the entire coating.

Main advantages:

• Paths and platforms can be laid in any shape and configuration;
• It is possible to remove the covering and move it to another place;
• Environmentally friendly material;
• Does not injure tree roots, allowing moisture and air to pass through;
• No fumes occur in hot weather;
• Resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• Strength and wear resistance.

The disadvantages include slipping on the tiles during frosts. To avoid an undesirable effect, purchase material with a rough surface. When choosing a coating, you need to decide for what purposes the tiles will be used. There are 2 types of material, differing in the production method: vibropressed and vibrocast. The first option is purchased for sites with increased load. Vibrocast is suitable for laying paved paths in the garden.

Depending on the designer's imagination and the preferences of the owners, tiles can be laid in several ways:

• In a checkerboard pattern;
• Herringbone styling;
• Braided;
• In the circle version;
• Chaotic pattern.

A beautifully laid out project will add zest to the site and emphasize the individuality of the owners.

What is the best way to lay paving slabs?

Laying paving slabs can be done on a bed of wet sand, a mixture of sand and cement, or on a concrete base. The first 2 options involve easy dismantling of the paving stones. Installing the material on concrete will make the site stationary.

The easiest and most popular installation option in dachas and garden plots sand is considered.

The advantage of this paving is the passage of moisture into the ground through layers of sand. Sometimes it is mixed with gravel and pieces of brick to compact the substrate. Any paving stones, ceramics or bricks can be placed on such a layer. A mixture of cement and sand is pre-prepared based on proportions of 1:5 and distributed over the prepared surface. Then they spill water and begin to lay the tiles. This method allows you to firmly strengthen the coating and, if necessary, easily dismantle it. Place material on concrete base recommended in cases of heavy surface loads. This coating is used in parking lots and as a garage area.

The advantages of the screed include:

• Strength;
• Evenness of laying;
• No shrinkage during operation.

Cement, sand and water are mixed in a concrete mixer, then the mixture is poured and compacted. It is necessary to take care of water drainage before installation; after hardening, it will be problematic to remove the permanent coating. Depending on the purpose of operation, the owner of the personal plot chooses suitable option bases for tiles.

Installation of paving slabs: technology for performing the work

There are various ways to lay tiles, but experts recommend sticking to the general sequence.

Stages of work execution:

1. Clearing the area. Stumps are uprooted, plants are removed, soil is removed from 15 to 20 cm.
2. The surface of the earth is treated with herbicide.
3. Markings are made along the length of the path or the perimeter of the site using pegs and beacons.
4. Form slopes for water drainage.
5. Install curbs.
6. Fill the work surface with a layer for laying tiles.
7. Compact and level the mixture.
8. Lay the tiles.
9. Seams are sealed.

These principles apply during installation, regardless of what it will be laid on. raw material. Consistent steps will help you lay the sidewalk correctly.

Tools for laying paving slabs

Post beautiful path It won’t be difficult even for a beginner, the main thing is to have desire, patience and accuracy. In order to start construction work, you need to prepare materials and tools. Draw up a drawing with a plan of sidewalks, then calculate the required number of tiles, depending on its size and configuration.

Necessary materials:

• Tiles or paving stones;
• Side stones;
• Crushed stone;
• Sand;
• Cement;
• Waterproofing film.

Tools for work: grinder for cutting tiles, shovel, tamper, trowel, mallet, hammer, broom, building level, tape measure, pegs, cord or rope. For work, it is advisable to have gloves and special knee pads. Access to water and electricity must be ensured.

How to lay a path from paving slabs on a sand base

You can lay out the path yourself by following step-by-step instructions. The main thing is that when arranging it, good drainage is ensured. This will prevent water from stagnating and destroying the structure. To do this, make a slight slope of 5 mm every 1 - 1.5 meters.

The first step is preparation work surface. Remove unnecessary plants and remove the layer of soil, clearing the area for future installation. The ground is leveled with a rake and pegs are placed at the nodal marks, between which a cord is pulled. The markings should be every 1 - 1.5 meters. The distance between the ground and the markings should be equal to the thickness of 2 tiles folded together. Next, provide a slight slope for water flow towards the street.

On the sides of the paths it is necessary to make trenches for installing curb stones.

The second stage of work will be preparing the layer. To do this, you need to lay geotextiles, which will prevent grass from growing through the tiles and will prevent the coating from sagging. Crushed stone is poured on top over the entire surface of the path and compacted so that the layer does not exceed 15 cm.

The third stage is the installation of side stone. Pre-dug trenches are filled with cement mortar, then a curb is installed. Its height can be flush with the path or protruding slightly. This design will allow you to hold the entire array and emphasize geometric shapes. Next, pour a damp sand cushion, level it with a rake and compact it again. If the owner wants to further strengthen the structure, at the next stage a mixture of cement and sand is applied, leveled and compacted.

The tiles begin to be laid from the curb, according to the diagram. In order not to damage the leveled surface, work is carried out away from you, moving gradually forward. The intermediate distance between tiles should not exceed 3 mm. Beginners can use special crosses. Using a mallet, each element is sunk, focusing on the level.

First, lay the main area, then all the other parts that need to be adjusted to size. After paving the path, you can additionally walk with a vibrating plate for perfect compaction and a smooth surface. Next, the seams are filled with wet sand and passed with a broom to fill all holes. Laying out a path yourself is not a complicated and exciting process that will make the owner proud and create the necessary aesthetic appearance for the garden plot.

How to make a platform from paving slabs on a concrete base

You can arrange a stationary platform on a concrete base for a car or for other significant loads yourself. To prevent water from stagnating, concrete covering the sites will need to be made with a slight slope.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Prepare the surface for the site, remove debris and plants.
2. Mark its boundaries with pegs and stretch the twine between them.
3. Remove the top 20 cm of soil, pour water on it and compact the designated area.
4. Dig a trench along the width and length for the curb stone, fill it with cement and place the curb stone.
5. Put it on the ground waterproofing film which will prevent moisture from rising to the top.
6. Pour crushed stone on top of the film and fill the voids between it with sand. Compact everything well.
7. Fix the prepared reinforcement or mesh between each other and the side rods.
8. Make a cement mixture in a ratio of 1:3:2 cement, sand, crushed stone. Then mix it with water until smooth and pour onto the prepared surface. Level it, not forgetting the slope, and leave it to dry for several days.

Laying the tiles is carried out only after the cement base has completely dried. Its installation is carried out using cement-sand mortar, some craftsmen use glue. The concrete base is moistened, the solution is applied with a trowel in a small layer of 2-3 cm and the tiles begin to be laid.

Laying paving slabs

If you decide to pave the surface on the site yourself, then you need to know what technology fits better for the selected option. Smart device sidewalks, design diagrams and some instructions reflect routing for laying paving slabs.

Regardless of which installation method is chosen, you must adhere to general rules paving:

• Masonry is carried out in dry, preferably cloudy weather;
• Sawdust is not used to fill joints;
• If large loads are expected on the laid surface, the cushion is made of concrete with reinforcement;
• Soils with a complex structure require reinforcement with 80 cm of concrete, and then a mixture of cement and sand of 40 cm to prevent the site from moving;
• At the porch it is better to lay the tiles on cement base, since the daily load is increased;
• Be sure to make a slope of 5° for water outflow.

Correct laying of paving slabs (video)

High-quality construction of paths and sidewalk areas with proper drainage and drainage, will allow the structure to last long years, maintaining the original aesthetic appearance.

Laying paths is a mandatory stage in the arrangement of any local area, because paths make the site not only more comfortable, but also aesthetically pleasing. For these purposes, you can use the most different materials, but most often the choice falls on paving slabs. There is nothing surprising here: it has a lot of advantages, and the technology for laying the material is so accessible that literally anyone can do it with their own hands. To correctly lay the path and thereby improve the area of ​​the dacha, you only need to follow the step-by-step instructions - we suggest you read them further.

Why choose paving slabs

So that you have no doubt about the advisability of using this material to create country paths, let’s consider the main advantages:

• A large selection of shapes, shades, as well as textures - tiles make it possible to implement any design idea on the site and create a harmonious landscape ensemble.
• Ease of use - there are no puddles left on the paths made of paving slabs, since all excess moisture leaves through the seams between the tiles.

Paving slabs are convenient and durable

• Durability - the material does not deform under constant exposure to the scorching sun, precipitation and sudden temperature changes. In addition, the tiles are durable and low abrasion, so they can withstand long-term intensive use - over 15 years. But even if some area of ​​the coating is damaged, it can always be restored by replacing several tiles.
• Ease of installation - laying a path will not be difficult even for those who have never dealt with such landscaping work. To make sure of this, consider the technology of laying tiles step by step.

Stage 1: Selecting a pattern for laying tiles

First of all, you need to decide how you will lay the tiles - the shape, size and amount of material for the path depends on this.

The most common schemes:

• Classic ordering is the simplest installation method, which involves placing paving slabs one after another. Most often, square or rectangular elements are used - they are easier to fit together.

Advice. To give such a rather simple track originality, you can combine different colors and tile textures.

• With an offset - one more traditional way laying: tiles are placed so that their joints do not coincide. The combination is actively encouraged here different colors and textures, but the shape of the elements must be uniform.
• Herringbone - laying at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. Rectangular or shaped elements can be used. A complex version of the herringbone pattern is wicker: paving slabs are also laid at an angle, but alternating - lengthwise and crosswise. To make the pattern clear, it is recommended to use only two colors.

Paths made of paving slabs look very modern and beautiful

• Chess - laying square two-color tiles in a checkerboard pattern. Although this option is simple to implement, due to the play of colors it looks very impressive.
• Geometry - various geometric patterns are formed from tiles: squares, rhombuses, zigzags, etc. The composition is created by using elements of different colors, but the same shape.

Stage 2: Preparation of materials and tools

When you decide on the installation scheme, you can go to a hardware store to buy tiles. When choosing a product, focus not only on its design, but also on performance indicators: slip level, maximum permissible weight loads, processing capabilities (trimming, painting).

Advice. To correctly determine the number of tiles, it is better to draw up a simple plan diagram in advance: indicate the shape and dimensions of the planned path. Subsequently, taking into account the area working area and the dimensions of a specific tile, you can easily calculate the required volume of material.

In addition to the paving slabs themselves, you will also need:

• dry cement;
• sand;
• fine crushed stone or gravel;
• small pegs - wooden or metal;
• mallet - rubber or wooden;
• Master OK;

Before laying tiles, the surface should be leveled

• level;
• tile knife;
• tamping;
• profile;
• geotextiles;
• twine.

Stage 3: Laying on a concrete base or sand bed

A properly prepared foundation is a guarantee of successful laying of a country path, so this stage needs to be thought out in detail. The first step is to mark the future path: mark its boundaries, drive pegs around the perimeter and connect them with twine.

Advice. If on site clay soil, take care of drainage: make longitudinal and transverse slopes in the resulting trench so that moisture flows to the edges.

Now you need to decide the most important question: on what kind of base will you lay the tiles? There are two options:

1. Sand pillow. First, you need to lay a layer of sand on the ground - 5-10 cm in height. Compact it and moisten it. Lay geotextiles on top. Then lay a layer of crushed stone or gravel - also 5-10 cm in height. Walk along the base with a tamper and add up to 5 cm more sand. After this, perform the final moistening and compaction of the pillow. This base option is only suitable for narrow and short paths.
2. Concrete base. To begin, fill the trenches with a layer of sand - about 5 cm. Moisten and compact the base. Then prepare a cement mixture: 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Fill the trench with the resulting composition - the layer should be 4-5 cm. Be sure to level the concrete with a trowel. This base option is more durable than the first, so it is suitable for paths of any size.

Laying tiles on a sand bed

Stage 4: Tile laying technology

The last stage is the direct construction of the path from paving slabs. You only need to start laying from yourself - this way you will not deform the prepared base. According to the chosen pattern, install the first tile, adjust its position and fix it to the base, carefully tapping it with a mallet.

Focusing on the first element, lay the entire track, keeping gaps of 2 mm. Tamp each tile with a mallet so that it “sits” firmly into the base. Periodically check the height of the covering - if you notice that some element is laid unevenly, use a trowel to carefully lift it, adjust the position and re-fix it on the track.

After the paving slabs have been laid, fill the seams with either sand or a dry cement-sand composition. Then remove excess filler and thoroughly moisten the gaps. The seams should be tight, since they will bear part of the load that the track will take on.

Advice. To fill the joints, use only clean sand that does not contain any organic impurities, so that vegetation does not soon appear between the tiles.

You can walk on the paved path only 2-3 days after its installation.

Laying paving slabs is relatively inexpensive, but effective way improve the local area. As you can see, arranging paths does not require professional skills or complex tools - it’s quite possible to make paths with your own hands. So carefully study the step-by-step installation instructions and you can safely get to work.

How to lay paving slabs: video

Paving slabs at the dacha: photo

FORUMHOUSE users know well that life outside the city means not only a pleasant time in a hammock in the garden, but also constant housework. Everyone arranges their “ten acres” to their own taste. And if the creation of landscape design is a matter of personal preference, then garden paths are simply vital in any personal plot and at any dacha. Indeed, in addition to purely decorative purposes, it is the paths that allow us to move freely around the site, regardless of the time of year.

Therefore, increased demands are placed on materials for paving garden paths, such as wear resistance, safety, environmental friendliness and presentable appearance. Paving slabs meet all these requirements. Expert advice and step-by-step instructions from users of our forum in this article will help you lay tiles for the path in your country house yourself!

How to make a path from tiles. Planning.

Any construction should begin with careful planning of all work. Laying paving slabs will be no exception. First of all, you should pay attention to the following points:

The total number of paths and their location on the site. Tiles for paths in the garden.

The key rule can be formulated as follows: “The central path in the garden should lead from the entrance to the site to the house.” If there is a garage, workshop or gazebo on the site, then paths should be laid to them. This way, you can ensure the zoning of the site, ensuring unobstructed access to each building.

Width of sidewalk paths

The path leading to the house should be such a width that two adults walking towards each other can easily pass each other. On average, this value ranges from 1 to 1.5 meters.

Paths that are not used very often and lead to flower beds or beds can be made 0.5 to 0.8 meters wide.

You should also clearly define functional purpose tracks.

Denis Bogdanov Landscape improvement specialist, forum nickname Denis Vlad-ch

– For myself, I clearly divide paths into decorative ones, leading to the gazebo, and functional ones, which are subject to heavy loads and lead to the house or garage.

Paths that experience heavy loads require more careful preparation of the base than those paths that are used from time to time.

Denis Vlad-ch

You also need to consider how you will care for your garden path in winter and autumn.

Unlike unfilled paths, paving slabs are easier to maintain. When removing snow and fallen leaves, you won't be throwing rubble aside.

The second most important characteristic of a garden sidewalk, after functionality, is how pleasant it is to walk along it. And in order to understand this, you can use the secret of landscape designers.

Vladimir Petriv Director of Petriv Landscape Designe

I always advise you to first walk along pre-marked paths and make sure that everything is comfortable and that it is convenient for all household members to move along them. I can say that after such a “walk” you almost always have to make adjustments to the original plan for marking the path.

In addition to defining the functionality garden path, you need to select the thickness of the tile. And here it is better to adhere to the following rules.

How to make a sidewalk path: step-by-step instruction

In addition to determining the functionality of the garden path, it is necessary to select the thickness of the paving slabs. And here it is better to adhere to the following rules.

Konstantin MerzlyakovExpert from the Factory GOTIKA, Moscow:

For garden paths and local areas where passenger vehicles do not enter, the paving slabs of the path can be no thicker than 40-50 mm. And for a path providing passage passenger car and parking areas, the thickness of the tiles must be at least 60 mm.

Vladimir Petriv:

Initial preparation for laying garden paths usually involves excavation, and this must be linked to the geoplasticity of your site. With large differences in heights, slopes, etc., it will be necessary to move and remove large masses of land - a very costly undertaking that requires the use of construction equipment

Geoplastics is the artificial formation of the relief and architecture of a site.

How to lay a tile garden path. Recommendations from experts.

Paving slabs are an environmentally friendly and durable coating for garden paths. And its durability and beauty, first of all, will depend on the quality of paving slabs and compliance with laying technology. You can also make tiles for paths with your own hands.

Konstantin Merzlyakov

Modern paving slabs are made of concrete. The shape of the tiles can be absolutely any, which allows you to successfully fit garden paths into landscape design any area.

The service life of concrete vibropressed tiles is on average 15 years, provided proper preparation grounds.

And, like any coating, paving slabs require maintenance during operation (cleaning, use of water-repellent coatings, etc.).

The first stage preparatory work for laying paving slabs is to break down the contour of the area to be laid and set up control “beacons”. The angles of the territory, connection to existing areas, and slopes are taken into account. After the work on laying out the contour has been carried out, they begin to prepare the base, which includes the following types of work: planning, installation of a load-bearing layer, installation of curbs and installation of a leveling sand layer under the tiles.

DIY sidewalk paths

We make a path from paving slabs in the following step-by-step sequence:

• The earthen boxes under the side stone are torn off;
• A side stone is installed around the perimeter of the site. Curb stone is necessary for strong fixation of paving slabs;
• The underlying layer is poured;
• The base is being laid;
• The tile covering is being laid;
• The tile joints are filled.

It is also necessary to remember that when laying tiles, the following standards should be followed.

Alexander LoginovTechnical Director of the company TD BRAER

Work on the device paving must be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.06.03-85 “Highways” and SNiP III-10-75 “Improvement of territories”.

A independent process installation can be divided into a number of successive stages.

1. Planning and designing a garden path. It is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site. Then develop the layout of the garden paths, choose the design and pattern of the tile layout;
2. Cost calculation necessary materials;
3. Carrying out work on laying garden paths.

Garden paths made of tiles.

Let's take a closer look at each of the points.

Alexander Loginov:

The choice of method for laying tiles depends on the condition of the dacha soil and the subsequent operating conditions of the site: the blind area of ​​the building, a pedestrian area, an area for driving and parking cars, etc.

It should be remembered that the result of your work, first of all, will depend on the thoroughness of the preliminary marking and preparation of the base for laying the tiles.

Planning includes the following:

• draw the layout of the area to be paved;
• measure the area in order to put the dimensions on the plan;
• based on the above points, make a calculation required quantity tiles for laying, as well as the amount of materials for preparing the base of a tile path with a border.

After developing the plan, they begin marking future paths.

Alexander Loginov

First of all, determine the direction of water flow. Please note that water must flow along the building's blind area or along a path into drainage wells or onto lawns. The slope can be made longitudinal, transverse, longitudinal-transverse, but not less than 0.5%, that is, 5 mm per meter.

The direction of the slope should be such that water flows from the paving into drainage systems or on the lawn, but not towards the building!

After the location for laying the tiles has been determined, the boundaries of the path are marked. To do this, pegs are driven along the boundaries of the site, along which a cord or fishing line is pulled. After this, you can begin excavating the soil, following these recommendations:

1. The excavation is carried out so that after laying the front surface of the tile reaches the specified level of your site;
2. The area formed after excavation is leveled and compacted;
3. If the soil is soft, it needs to be moistened (sprayed with water from a hose) and compacted.

Vladimir Petriv

Drainage and water disposal into a storm drain or storage well must be thought out and installed at the preparatory stage of work on laying garden paths.

Tiling a garden path

Konstantin Merzlyakov

When laying paving slabs on a complex curved surface and with a large difference in heights, it is necessary when planning to include a larger percentage for the consumption of tiles (trimming, adjusting, etc.).

Preparing the base of the sidewalk path

Most important stage laying paving slabs - preparing the base. The right foundation will not allow the path or site to “sag”, ensuring their longevity. It should be borne in mind that, despite the tight seams between the tiles, the base is still saturated with water. Therefore, a permeable drainage bearing layer (gravel, crushed stone) is needed at the base. Then some of the water from the surface will be drained through the paving stones and the load-bearing layer into the soil.

How to make paths from tiles.

It is also important to understand what layers it consists of. correct option base pie for laying tiles.

Alexander Mishin Expert of the Wienerberger Brick company

The pie consists of several layers: the natural soil base, the subbase, the underlying layer, the “bed” and, in fact, the “sidewalk”.

The “bed” is a layer of sand or small gravel. The sub-base is a bulk layer of soil, and the underlying layer consists of gravel or crushed stone.

Alexander Mishin

The thickness of the “bed” for any type of soil base is on average 3-5 cm. The thickness of the remaining layers should be formed based on indicators of the soil base such as humidity, density and composition.

Alexander Loginov

For the main supporting layer, frost-resistant material with a uniform grain composition (crushed stone, gravel) is used. This material must be laid evenly in height and with the required slopes.

To build a regular pedestrian country path, you will need to make a load-bearing layer 10-20 cm thick. When constructing areas for travel and parking passenger cars use a layer of 20-30 cm. For heavy loads, the load-bearing layer is increased and placed in 2-3 layers, each layer is compacted with a vibrating plate or vibrating roller.

As mentioned above, the method of preparing the base largely depends on the expected load on the garden path. It is also necessary to take into account the bearing capacity of the soil.

Our forum user Oleg Novitsky advises how to build a sidewalk path from tiles in difficult soil: if under the base there is a so-called heavy or clay soil, or you have a waterlogged country cottage area, then the thickness of the crushed stone base must be made at least 10 cm.

Then geotextiles are laid.

Geotextiles allow water to pass through well and do not allow materials to mix (mixing materials leads to the formation of voids and gaps in the coatings).

Alexander Mishin

The use of geotextiles is appropriate when the natural soil base is located in a swampy area and has high humidity. A layer of geotextile is placed above the natural soil base.

The next layer of our “pie” is screening on a geotextile base.

Oleg Novitsky

We fill the area with screenings (or sand). The screening layer must be at least 10 cm. This layer must be compacted very carefully. At this stage, it is necessary to precisely level the entire foundation for laying using a rule or other tool.

The dropout rate is not very good property– caking. This means that over time the base becomes almost monolithic, and then, due to its low strength, it cracks, and cracks and cavities form in the coating. To avoid such a nuisance, use a vibrating tool for compaction and tamping and do not carry out work in rainy weather. The best screening for such work is dry.

We then proceed to create the foundation level using the following algorithm:

• The boundaries and center lines of the site are marked with a rope;
• Loose sand can be leveled just below the edges of the curb;
• We compact the resulting pillow with a vibrating plate.

Oleg Novitsky

An electric or gasoline vibrating rammer with a rubber sole is well suited for compacting the sand layer. With its help, you can not only qualitatively prepare a gravel-sand cushion, but also avoid further subsidence and collapse of the soil under the laid tiles.

Alexander Loginov

It must be remembered that all layers of the base are poured, leveled and compacted, taking into account a 0.5% slope!

The preparatory stage is completed by filling with river sand or a cement-sand mixture. To do this, a layer of clay-free clay is poured onto the base. river sand 1-2 cm thick without compaction, the layer should be loose.

CPS (cement-sand mixture) is taken in a ratio of 1:8-1:10, because cement is needed to bind the sand so that it can be washed away by water.

Alexander Mishin

Usage cement-sand mixture as a “bed” is justified only in the case where intensive vehicle traffic is expected on the surface of the tile. The garage and pedestrian zone of a private house do not belong here, because the movement and load here are not so intense.

Laying paving slabs

In order for the garden path to be durable and for the tiles to lie flat on it, the gardener must also divide its installation into several successive stages.

Laying begins:

• from the bottom point;
• from optically important boundaries;
• from conspicuous elements: porch, front entrance to the house;
• manual laying of tiles is done diagonally in the direction “away from you”, so as not to disturb the prepared top layer.

Before laying the first row of tiles, in order to maintain the exact location of the seams, it is necessary to pull the cord over the entire length and width of the object. After this, holding the cord, proceed with installation.

It is recommended to check the location and straightness of the seams every three rows of laid paving slabs. Laying is done using a rubber hammer (mallet) with light blows on the tiles. Every 3-5 square meters of laid but not yet compacted paving slabs, its surface is controlled using a two-meter rule or a building level.

Alexander Loginov

Curb stones should be used to frame paths in a suburban area. These guards must be made before laying the outer part of the path to prevent lateral displacement and settlement of the tiles.

Along the edges of the marked area of ​​the path, using a stretched cord, dig a trench of small size and depth (so that the curb enters this trench to the required level). The base of the trench must be compacted, backfilled, and the curb installed on concrete.

The border can be visible or hidden - it depends on the desire. If the border is hidden, then it must be placed so that the top of the tile exceeds the top of the border by the height of the chamfer.

Oleg Novitsky

To reduce the number of tiles to cut, start the longest row at the curb, laying entire tiles directly towards it. The resulting voids should be exactly half the tile. By cutting from one whole you will get two halves you need, and I think waste can be completely avoided. This technique can be used for figured symmetrical tiles.

The main enemy of any paving slab is freezing water. Therefore, you cannot lay tiles on monolithic, waterproof substrates, concrete screed. It is prohibited to lay tiles on the mortar outdoors.

Sealing and vibrating ramming

After laying out the tiles, the coating is compacted with a vibrating plate. After the first vibration compaction of the coating, dry, sifted, clean sand is poured onto the surface so that the sand is easily and densely poured into the cracks between the tiles. The scattered sand is spread evenly with a brush over the entire area and hammered into the seams, “tying” the entire coating into a single whole.

And in order to build a durable coating, when working you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• Do not lay tiles in rainy weather without a special canopy.
• Do not fill the joints with a mixture of sand and cement.
• If the area has “complex”, heaving soil, it must be taken into account that its displacement can deform the tile. Then a more complex installation is performed - with step-by-step preparation concrete pad as a base, which guarantees durability.

Thus, when laying garden paths yourself, you need to take into account every little detail and carefully plan all stages of the work. After all, the path to your home begins with a garden path made!

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