Making a concrete porch with your own hands is not difficult. But first you need to think through all the details so that when you enter the house, you don’t stumble over uncomfortable steps, and the structure itself will serve you well long years. Concrete porch is very popular among owners of private houses, as it does not rust or rot. The materials are inexpensive, and you can assemble the formwork and pour concrete into it yourself. Plus, manufacturers offer a variety of finishes, so no one will know what your porch is made of.
- Step by step instructions
- Useful tips
- Review of finishing materials
Installation technology step by step
It's always difficult to start. Questions about shape, finish, number of steps and other things will immediately arise in your head. Nice drawing and calculating all the materials will simplify the work itself.
Firstly, walking should be comfortable and safe. Therefore, arrange a small area in front of the door; it should be 50 mm below the door. Build the stairs at an angle of 25 to 45 degrees. The recommended height of the steps is 200, and the width is at least 300 mm; these are the kind of stairs that are made in multi-storey buildings. If the steps are higher, children and the elderly will not be able to access you easily. The porch itself should be no narrower than 0.8 m; this space is enough for one person to walk freely on it.
2. Base.
The question of whether to build a foundation for a concrete porch or not does not have a clear answer. It all depends on the structure itself and the type of soil. If you need a regular staircase of 3-5 steps with a small platform in front of the door, and your house is located on good soil, it is not necessary to make a deep foundation. But if you have already drawn a drawing of a huge staircase with a canopy, and the house is on clay soil will have to be filled with concrete solid foundation. Since it would be necessary to write a whole book to consider all the options, in this instruction we will look at how to make a concrete porch with a small foundation.
Clear the area of debris and plants. Dig a hole at least 300 mm deep. We recommend insulating the future structure with expanded polystyrene or other material that does not allow steam and moisture that forms in the ground to pass through. This will not only add strength, but also increase the life of the finish.
If you decide to completely fill the future porch with concrete, fill the hole with a 50 mm layer of crushed stone and a 100 mm layer of sand soaked in water. To reduce the consumption of materials for a medium-sized structure, you don’t have to completely concreting the entire space; to do this, add sand to the height of the upper platform and stairs, compacting it well.
To build a strong, large porch on unstable soil, you need to build at least columnar foundation, there are detailed instructions on the Internet on how to properly make and pour concrete pillars. Otherwise the system will be unreliable.
Another question that can only be answered by knowing all the characteristics. For a new private house that has not had time to settle down, it is better to attach a porch; ideally, pour the foundation and the platform with the stairs at the same time. The problem of being tied to an already settled house is resolved individually, since due to uneven speed shrinkage in unstable soil conditions, there is a high probability of rapid occurrence of cracks. The design of the formwork will depend on the decision you make.
3. Formwork.
For the side and bottom edges of the formwork, plywood reinforced with timber or strong boards no thicker than 20 mm are suitable. If the wood is dry, wet it and plan the areas that will touch the concrete. The formwork should be 200-300 mm higher than the future porch, depending on the strength of the soil. To fasten parts, use self-tapping screws and corners. Make sure there are no gaps. Strengthen the system by making strong supports.
First, install the side formwork; it should be 100 mm from the wall if you decide not to connect the porch and the house. Roofing felt is attached to this space and a layer of sealant is applied. Then boards are mounted to outline the outline of future steps. Then lubricate the formwork from the inside special mixture to facilitate disassembly of the structure.
4. Reinforcement.
We recommend using ribbed reinforcement. The elements are connected to each other with soft wire or welded. To make the porch one with the house, drill small holes in the adjacent wall and insert the ends of the reinforcement there.
The distance between the reinforcement layers is 150 mm, and the step in any direction is 150‒200. Additionally, it is necessary to outline the contours of each step. Minimum distance to the formwork 40‒50 mm.
5. Preparation of concrete mixture.
If you decide to buy ready-made concrete, grades M150-M200 are suitable. To save money, you will have to dilute the mixture yourself. It is better to borrow a household concrete mixer from someone, since the material hardens instantly if it is not in motion.
To make concrete you need:
- cement M400-M500;
- crushed stone 10 – 35 mm in size;
- sand with particles 1.2 – 5 mm;
- water.
Table of proportions for preparing concrete mixture:
The proportion of water can vary from 0.5 to 1 part depending on the materials. Do not overdo it, otherwise the concrete will lose strength.
For concreting to be successful, it is important to follow the technology from start to finish. There are special additives to improve properties. If you are not using a vibratory compactor, add plasticizers to make the job easier.
6. Concreting.
To properly pour a porch, start concreting from the bottom steps of the stairs. After pouring each step, spread the concrete evenly over the formwork using a stick or vibrating compactor.
7. Stripping.
Since concrete will reach its stated strength in 28 days, it is ideal to wait a week after you pour the structure. If time is short, leave the mixture for at least 2-3 days.
1. If it is very hot during work, water the concrete every day to prevent cracks.
2. When concreting, it is convenient to use a vibrating compactor. This procedure will give the structure strength, and it will be easier for you to evenly distribute the mixture.
3. Some builders suggest using crushed bricks to save money, broken glass, stones and other debris instead of sand and gravel. If you want to build a porch that will fall apart after the first winter, give it a try.
4. It is more convenient for a person to start and finish the climb with one leg, so take an odd number of steps.
5. It is better to pour concrete in clear weather; the appropriate temperature is +20 degrees.
6. The surface of the steps is arranged with a slope of 5 mm so that water flows freely from them.
7. If you decide to make a semicircular porch, it is convenient to assemble the formwork for the steps from thin galvanized plywood.
Finish options
The advantage of a porch made of concrete is a wide selection of finishing materials. Thrifty craftsmen make drawings immediately after concreting using templates or lay out patterns from pebbles; this is inexpensive, but requires attention and patience. There are other options.
- Granite and marble cladding. Looks great and holds up well. Another thing is that it’s small a private house Against the backdrop of this splendor, it can get lost.
- Clinker tiles. Durable, non-slip, looks very presentable.
- Porcelain tiles. The quality is not inferior to clinker, but costs less.
- Concrete and paving slabs. An inexpensive option, but it gradually crumbles, and made by vibration casting it slides.
- Tree. Not always reliable, but it looks harmonious with a wooden house.
You can combine several options to create a porch that matches your home and is affordable. For example, wood and concrete tiles or granite and ceramic tiles. It is important to choose reliable material so that its beauty will delight you for a long time.
Selecting a staircase reinforcement scheme
Assembly reinforcement cage stairs
Before starting to reinforce the concrete staircase, it is necessary to assemble the staircase formwork, and then perform concreting of the staircase. How to do it yourself is described in the article Do-it-yourself concrete staircase.
Rod reinforcement is excellent for reinforcing concrete stairs of simple shape.
To understand what and why to reinforce, let's look at the forces that arise on a single-flight staircase.
This will be the force of gravity from the own weight of the stairs, its pedestrians, carried things and other heavy property. All of the above puts pressure on the stairs from above.
At the same time, in the upper part of the staircase slab the concrete is compressed, and in the lower part it is stretched. All this means that concrete, which is weak in tension, needs to be reinforced at the bottom of the staircase slab. In the upper part of the staircase slab, in this case, there is no need to reinforce concrete; there the concrete will perfectly resist compressive forces even without any reinforcement. It should be noted that some private developers, when assembling the reinforcement frames of stairs, put steel channels, angles, beams, etc. into the formwork on the sides.
Of course, this won’t make things worse, but it’s a completely useless waste of metal that’s not cheap these days. Reinforcing a concrete staircase with reinforcement in the lower part is more than enough to absorb tensile forces.
The figure shows a reinforcement diagram for a simple single-flight staircase. It can be seen that a single-flight monolithic staircase (without a monolithic platform or winder steps) is reinforced only in the lower part of the slab, that is, where tensile forces are concentrated.
Sometimes you can find projects where the top of the stairs near the top surface of the concrete is reinforced with a 100x100x5 mm steel mesh. Such a mesh practically does not increase the rigidity of a monolithic staircase, but only protects the steps from chipping in case of accidental strong impacts.T
Such a simple nature of the effects on a simple single-flight staircase makes it possible to use a simplified method to draw up a reinforcement scheme.
It is quite possible to determine the optimal reinforcement scheme for such simple monolithic stairs yourself.
Designations in the figure for the concrete staircase reinforcement diagram: working height of the monolithic staircase slab (H), length of the flight of stairs (L).
The distance between the transverse reinforcement (E) is usually chosen to be 40 cm. Rods with a diameter of 10 mm are used as transverse reinforcement. Optimal distance power reinforcement to the surface 3 cm.
The height of the working slab of the staircase (H), the diameter of the longitudinal reinforcement and the distance between the bars of the longitudinal reinforcement (I) are selected according to table. 1 depending on the free flight of stairs (L).
Table 1. Determination of longitudinal reinforcement of a single-flight concrete staircase
In the case of a two-flight staircase with a monolithic platform, the forces that arise in the design of the monolithic staircase, the reinforcement scheme of the concrete staircase becomes more complicated.
The picture shows that, unlike a conventional single-flight staircase without a platform, the own and useful weight of the staircase wants to break off the landings, causing tensile forces in the upper parts of the monolithic landings.
This is partly helped by shrinkage stresses. Therefore, monolithic platforms are reinforced both from below and from above, and the upper reinforcement in the landings partially continues in the stairs. The parameters of the upper reinforcement frame are selected similarly to the lower reinforcement.
The landings of double-flight staircases experience great stress from the weight of the staircase, and therefore must be firmly fixed to the wall.
In practice, to secure monolithic platforms, reinforced concrete crowns are most often used, which are formed by recesses in the walls with dimensions on average of 20x20 cm. Thus, in order to secure a monolithic concrete platform, you need strong and thick walls, for example, made of concrete, concrete blocks or bricks . When walls are made of bricks, free recesses are left in them, and in the case of thick walls made of monolithic concrete Wooden trapezoids or foam plastic products of the appropriate size are laid to the formwork at the site location.
If the walls are built using the thermo-house monolithic casting technology, then it is most practical to monolith the flights of stairs and the landing at the stage of wall construction.
To increase structural rigidity, stairs with monolithic landings should be attached from above to the reinforcement frame with upper and lower reinforcement.
As for do-it-yourself reinforcement schemes for concrete stairs with winder steps and spiral stairs, their reinforcement schemes with rod reinforcement are too complex and individual.
To compile them, at a minimum, you will have to use special programs for calculations and design of reinforced concrete structures.
Do-it-yourself concrete staircase and options for finishing it
Therefore, it is best to entrust the design of the reinforcement scheme for such stairs to professional designers, especially since the project itself will be relatively inexpensive in the total cost of a complex staircase.
In order for the reinforcement cage bars to maintain their design position in accordance with the reinforcement diagram, it is necessary to fasten all the reinforcement bars together. To fasten reinforcing mesh, you can use either spot welding or knitting.
There is an opinion that welding leads to a decrease in the strength of the reinforcement, but this is only true if special high-strength reinforcement is used. In this case, indeed, high-strength hardened reinforcement, due to heat treatment at the welding points, turns into ordinary construction reinforcement. Such high-strength reinforcement is expensive and is produced by only a few factories in the CIS on special order.
For ordinary building reinforcement, welding does not harm in any way and is the main method of connecting reinforcement cages in industry.
Assembling the reinforcement frame of the stairs
If you don’t have a welding machine at hand, you can simply tie the reinforcing mesh with annealed knitting wire using a hook.
For quick tying, it is convenient to clamp the hook into an electric screwdriver.
It is even more convenient to fasten reinforcement cages using electrical plastic clamps. The truth about this method of connecting reinforcement is still kept silent by domestic SNiPs, but this method of connection is already widely used abroad and on private construction sites.
To maintain a distance of 3 cm between the bottom of the formwork and the reinforcement, it is convenient to use plastic clamps, which are sold in construction supermarkets.
For a monolithic staircase, it is preferable to use a clamp shaped like a “chair”.
Sometimes it is not possible to assemble a reinforcement cage from continuous bars of the required length.
It is difficult to do this when connecting on bends, since it is not convenient to bend the reinforcement without a bending apparatus. In this case, the power reinforcement can be connected from pieces. The connection is made by welding or bonding. The easiest way to weld is to use manual electric arc seam welding between reinforcement bars. When welding rods with an overlap on both sides of the joint there should be at least 6 diameters, and when weld on one side only there are at least 12 diameters.
In the case of a two-flight staircase with a monolithic platform, the diameter of the wire that is taken to secure two reinforcing meshes must be at least 6 mm. If the power reinforcement is connected to each other using ties, then the overlap should be (on average) equal to 50 diameters of the connected reinforcement.
If there are several joints to be connected, then they are placed in a checkerboard pattern so that they are 0.7–1 m apart from each other.
Construction of houses, dachas, cottages in Lately one of the most common “hobbies” for most Russians. The richer one hires professional builders, someone is trying to slowly cope on their own. This is the category that most often searches for construction advice on the Internet.
It is for those who want to build their own house with their own hands that our guide is about “ How to make a concrete staircase yourself».
Stairs are usually installed in buildings of more than one floor, but sometimes a staircase is required to go to the basement.
After all, today not a single private house can do without a basement. Where else to store the “gifts of nature”: potatoes, pickles, preserves and jam?
The strongest and most durable is a concrete staircase. And, by the way, the process of its construction is quite within the capabilities of a skilled owner.
Calculation of concrete stairs
If the interfloor stairs in a house under construction are planned to be made of concrete, then their calculation is done at the project stage.
How to make a concrete staircase with your own hands: recommended dimensions, materials and technology
If there is a need to equip a staircase to go down to the basement or ground floor, then you should take measurements on site, make a drawing for the future structure, and then begin its construction. Before making a concrete staircase yourself, you should consider hiring a specialist to do the work.
In order for the staircase to be comfortable, it is necessary to remember the standard building codes that have been in use for a long time.
So, the optimal width of the stairs is 1 meter, the minimum is 80 cm, and the maximum is optional. The optimal step height is 17-18 cm (if cladding is planned, then the height of the cladding material is minus).
A convenient step width is 28-30 cm, i.e. by the length of the foot (if the staircase is made with winder steps, then their width is calculated based on the angle of rotation of the staircase).
When calculating the stairs, the angle of elevation is important. Optimal - 30-35 degrees. It is important to maintain the distance from the ceiling to any step, which cannot be less than 2 m.
Sequence of work
Work must be carried out in strict sequence:
- install formwork;
- reinforce the frame of the future staircase;
- concrete steps.
The most labor-intensive process is the installation of formwork.
The simplest formwork is made for stairs placed between two walls that perform load-bearing functions. The markings of the future staircase are made directly on the wall and the frame itself is attached to them.
For a staircase that is attached to the wall on only one side, it will be necessary to provide supports.
Putting up the formwork
The actual formwork for a concrete staircase is a box, at the bottom of which there is a solid slab (it is advisable to cover it with film), side walls that correspond to the shape of the steps, and transverse boards that form the steps themselves.
If the steps are up to one meter long, you need to take boards 30-40 mm thick, and if more than a meter, then you do not need to compact them with a second board. Boards for end formwork can be about 30 mm thick.
You can fasten the formwork elements using wood screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm; when dismantling, they are easier to remove than nails.
It is better to connect corner elements using metal corners.
The boards forming the steps are installed with a slight offset - the second step is made 2 centimeters below the top edge of the first. The same principle is used to build formwork for all other steps. This is done so that the concrete does not fall out from under the boards.
To prevent concrete from being absorbed into the wooden parts of the formwork, it is abundantly moistened before concreting, or protected with waterproofing material.
The manufactured formwork must be well strengthened, since concrete is very heavy and a cubic meter weighs 2.5 thousand kilograms. Therefore, the reinforcement is also attached to the side supports by approximately 15-25 cm.
For a non-professional builder, the procedure for tying the reinforcement necessary to give strength to the stairs will be difficult.
Manufacturing of reinforcement cage
As a rule, steel ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm is used, which is knitted at the intersections with wire.
There must be at least 3 cm between the bottom of the formwork and the reinforcement.
If you plan to install railings, then you should make wooden inserts.
After this, you can begin concreting.
Remember that the steps and slab are poured with concrete in one go. The optimal composition of concrete contains 10 parts cement, 30 parts crushed stone, 20 parts sand, 7 parts water.
Concrete is poured into the formwork from the bottom step; after pouring, the mass is compacted and smoothed with a trowel.
It is better to take short breaks between concreting steps - 5-10 minutes - to contain the pressure of the concrete.
After pouring all the steps, it is advisable to cover the steps with film so that the concrete does not crack when it dries quickly.
It is better to begin dismantling the formwork after three to four weeks, when the concrete has completely dried. The staircase is ready: all that remains is to finish it to your taste.
12/08/2013 at 15:12
I. General information
II. Main product characteristics
Design
V. Scope of application
VI. Standard project
VII. Making reinforced concrete stairs yourself
VIII. Installation
IX. Average cost of reinforced concrete staircase products
During the construction of buildings, all technical nuances associated with engineering projects are developed in detail, construction technologies and building materials.
Multi-storey buildings, cottages, schools, kindergartens, institute buildings, banks, industrial complexes and many other structures for residential and industrial purposes have reinforced concrete stairs + reinforced concrete flights of stairs in their master plan.
I. General information
Reinforced concrete stairs and flights of stairs are connecting elements that are installed in special openings between floors or levels (this opening is called a staircase).
These elements are subject to constant kinetic or mechanical stress. Reinforced concrete products are manufactured at reinforced concrete factories, according to standard dimensions and building regulations applying concrete grade M300. And privately to order - according to individual sketches.
Flights for stairs are an inclined component of a staircase structure, which includes load-bearing beams and a certain number of steps (from 3 to 18 steps).
Standard flight width is 90cm.
II. Main product characteristics
- stable monolithic design,
- has a long service life,
- not subject to destructive effects from sudden temperature changes,
- does not rot or be destroyed by insects or rodents,
-has high resistance to chemical and mechanical influences,
- does not tend to age,
- highly resistant to wear,
— the possibility of diversity in the decorative and finishing design of the flooring,
— possibility of manufacturing any shape and configuration,
- reasonable price and quality,
— reinforced concrete stair steps are fire-resistant and durable.
Reinforced concrete stairs and flights have one single disadvantage - they make the overall structure of the building heavier.
III.
According to the methodology of the production process and engineering technologies, products are divided into:
- monolithic type (prefabricated),
- combined type.
Based on the number of flights used, concrete stairs are classified:
- for one-march,
- two-march,
- three-march
- and screw ones.
The form is: straight, L-shaped, U-shaped, U-shaped, curved, screw and exclusive configuration.
According to GOST, reinforced concrete staircases are divided into the following types:
— flat march without equipping fascia stepped elements (LM)
- ribbed march with equipment of frieze steps (LMF),
- ribbed march with half platform (LMP). 
IV. Design
All reinforced concrete elements of the staircase - flights, steps, platforms and beams, as well as additional components and fastening materials make up reinforced concrete structures of stairs, which are obviously displayed in project documentation home, namely in the drawing of the staircase.
The design parameters of the prefabricated modification divide products into small-sized and large-sized.
The small-sized group is assembled from individual elements composition, which includes steps, stringers (or without stringers), platform beams and slabs.
The heaviest of this structure are platform beams (300-450kg).
Large or industrial stairs differ in size and number structural elements: platforms and marches.
V. Application area
- industrial complexes of all types,
- schools and kindergartens,
- airport and railway stations,
- cinemas and restaurants,
- buildings of higher educational institutions,
- ordinary reinforced concrete house stairs up to 3 floors,
- multi-storey frame, brick, stone houses and other areas.
VI. Standard project
Development of drawing and technical information with the provision of all structural details of the future staircase is a standard project. Several options with drawings are provided to the customer for consideration. They include technical drawings with component parts and their dimensions. Drawings can be drawn up individually for each type of stairs. Namely: with straight, L-shaped, U-shaped, U-shaped, curved, spiral staircases.
How to make a concrete staircase with your own hands
In three dimensions and in section, all the complexities of the future structure in combination with the interior of the house are clearly visible. 
A typical design of a staircase complex is carried out before the construction of a house (low-rise or high-rise buildings). It is included as part of the general construction project.
All details of the project plan are discussed and agreed upon with the customer. A standard design for the installation of reinforced concrete stairs and flights can be ordered from the design government organizations or in private design offices.
List of detailed information of the drawing part of the project
precise technical marks for high-rise installation,
range of sizes along the horizontal and vertical plane,
clearance niches for fastening products;
parameters of concrete steps,
all technical data for installing beam products,
calculation of the resistance of buildings to the additional weight of stairs,
Typical projects are divided into standard (for multi-storey buildings), and non-standard or customized(for private houses).
The first includes prefabricated stairs (factory), consisting of two elements: a staircase and a flight. To the second - all other options.
In standard designs of private houses up to 3 floors and above, the following are taken into account: firstly, the size of the site allocated for construction or installation, secondly, the manufacturing and installation technology, the type of raw materials used in production and the shape of the staircase structure, thirdly, the location , intended for installation (load-bearing walls, middle of the hall) and geographical area.
The number of steps, width, height and shape are agreed with the customer.
VII. Making reinforced concrete stairs yourself
The question always arises: “how to make a reinforced concrete staircase with your own hands?” When performing this work, some skills in the construction field are required, as well as to perfectly study the installation stages: assembling formwork, installing a frame made of reinforcement and concrete pouring frame.
Assembling the formwork is the most sensitive moment– precise selection of formwork for each element is carried out.
Wooden boards, plywood and metal sheets can be used as formwork. When installing, wooden formwork must be soaked in water to prevent moisture absorption from the concrete and damage geometric shape steps, etc.
elements. An easy option for manual installation is the option of a wall staircase or an inter-wall staircase. The most difficult operation is making formwork for screw type stairs.
All options involve the installation of support beams made of thick timber.
After final assembly and strengthening of formwork sections, reinforcement of marches and platforms is carried out. The role of reinforcement is played by metal rods and mesh. The final step is pouring concrete. For cooking concrete composition You will need cement, sand, crushed stone. All components are diluted with water, then mixed in a concrete mixer for 15 minutes.
Using buckets, the solution is poured into the formwork.
Within 25-28 days, concrete reaches one hundred percent maturity, it's time to start decorating. Natural wood, laminate, thick plastic, cork are ideal for finishing work.
Precise technological execution of phased construction will give concrete structures strength and appropriate resistance to various destructive environments.
All DIY products, elements and stairs (reinforced concrete) have a number of advantages, namely: high resistance to mechanical stress due to the applied building materials, special decorative finishing and various exclusive forms, so reinforced concrete stairs in private houses are preferred by all clients who have country houses.
VIII. Installation
Installation begins with pouring a concrete pad on the first floor in the stairwell. Precise marks for reinforced concrete structures are made in advance. Each slab is checked for defects.
Installation steps: stringers of 2 flights go into the nests of the platform beams. The stepped part is placed on the stringers, resting its ends on it, while the front edge rests on the step lying below.
The march consists of two steps - lower and upper. Their purpose is to transition to the site. In turn, the platform is a reinforced concrete slab that serves as the load-bearing walls of the building or concrete beams. The handrails are attached with screws to the grille.
The connection of these structural elements is carried out by welding.
Factory marches have a solid cross-section, and the treads are folded or overhead. Handrails are delivered to the site in finished form and installed on site. The weight of a reinforced concrete element reaches 1t.
When installing large-sized reinforced concrete positions, teams of professional builders and special equipment (crane) are involved. The installation technology is carried out simultaneously with the construction of high-rise buildings. It is recommended to strictly observe the step-by-step technological process, otherwise it is fraught with unforeseen circumstances - collapse of staircase structures or cracks in load-bearing walls and the products themselves. 
Installation of stairs on metal stringers, reinforced concrete easy option and consists of: installation of stringers, installation of formwork and reinforcement, the last thing is pouring concrete.
This architectural composition can be installed anywhere. They are mounted without the use of additional equipment, unless the weight of the flights exceeds 350-400 kg.
IX. Average cost of reinforced concrete staircase products
For the attention of builders, combined reinforced concrete stairs can be purchased in ready-made prefabricated form at factories. It is also possible to individually manufacture reinforced concrete staircases to order from professional companies producing reinforced concrete products.
Product type (length) (width) (height) (weight) price
ML30-60-10(9 speed) (3610.0) (1050.0) (1200.0) (1.80) 10570rub
ML30-60-12(9 speed) (3610.0) (1200.0) (1200.0) (2.0) 11860rub
ML36-60-13(11 speed) (4280.0) (1350.0) (1200.0) (2.70) 17970rub
1LM30.11.15-4 (3000.0) (1050.0) (2500.0) (1.480) 9850rub
1LM30.12.15-4 (3000.0) (1200.0) (2500.0) (1.70) 10500rub
LM1(3910.0) (1050.0) (1600.0) (1.920) 11650rub
LM2(4250.0) (1050.0) (1800.0) (2.080) 10750rub
Staircase structures made of monolithic concrete
When building country houses and apartments on several levels, stairs are used. These essential elements must be practical and safe.
Most often, monolithic concrete stairs have recently begun to be used, since they do not require treatment after pouring and have a number of undeniable advantages.
- Calculations and design
- Manufacturing
Device options and advantages
The structure can be located both indoors and outdoors and, depending on the type, consist of one or two inclined beams and steps.
The following can be used as load-bearing elements:
- Stringers of a monolithic staircase - can be made of reinforced concrete or steel, the steps are attached from above.
- Bowstring - steps are inserted into grooves located on the inside. It is made of reinforced concrete, steel or wood.
Monolithic concrete stairs have a number of undeniable advantages: strength, durability, and high environmental friendliness.
The design does not require frequent repairs, can be made to order. The advantages include relatively inexpensive materials and work.
It is very important that high-quality monolithic stairs made of concrete are silent and safe.
Main types
Stepped products are different:
- A concrete staircase for a home can be entirely monolithic.
It is poured into pre-prepared formwork, which is dismantled after the cement mortar has hardened. It is worth noting that this option has recently been used infrequently for the home. There are several reasons for this, but the main one lies in the large weight, which significantly increases the load on the foundation. But basement or yard stairs made of concrete are not uncommon today.
- Combined - made of cement-sand mortar and metal.
They consist of a frame made of high quality steel and concrete steps. In this case, the formwork is assembled for each of them separately.
There is another classification of monolithic concrete stairs:
- Marches - can contain 1, 2 or more spans, called marches. According to building codes, the ideal angle is 45˚. The most optimal flight is considered to have 9 steps; sometimes it is advisable to use more, although then you will also have to make a landing.
Its width should be the same as the span, and its length should not exceed 1.5 average steps. This type is one of the most common.
- Screw or spiral - represent more complex design, so they are not used too often.
They are not very convenient, but they take up little space, so they can be used in small spaces. Spiral monolithic reinforced concrete stairs are calculated and designed much simpler than marching ones.
Do-it-yourself concrete staircase - calculations, installation, tips on how to make
So, if the length of the steps is 0.5 m, the length of the entire staircase structure will be approximately 2 times greater. In the interior of modern houses and multi-level apartments, they look very elegant and stylish. They can be successfully combined with marching ones. So, in the main part of the house a product of the first type is installed, for example, from the 1st to the 2nd floor, and from the 2nd to the attic - a spiral staircase, which will save not only money, but also space.
The product can be ordered from professional builders or made independently.
It is worth noting right away that this is a very labor-intensive process, and for those who have never worked with a cement-sand mixture, it is better not to undertake it, as this will jeopardize the safety of movement. Do not forget that a monolithic staircase with your own hands must be made of high-strength concrete.
It should be thick and not slip out of the formwork, thereby breaking the symmetry.
In order to calculate the height, you need to measure it from the floor to the part of the wall where the last step will end.
After this, visually draw a diagonal from the end point to the floor so that you get a right triangle. Then calculate the most optimal width of the marches, length and height of each step. Do not forget to deduct the height of the top floor slab, as well as those that will serve as the base of the staircase and its platform if you decide to make a two-flight structure.
Write down all calculations on paper and make a drawing. When calculating the height of the steps, do not forget that they will be lined with some material, for example, plastic or carpet, their thickness must be taken into account.
Making a staircase with your own hands
Only the highest quality materials are used. The grade of concrete for the manufacture of monolithic stairs should not be less than M-300.
- They start by assembling the formwork. It is necessary to ensure that the cement-sand mixture does not leak out or spread; it is advisable to use moisture-resistant plywood. Don’t forget about the special adhesive lubricant, which will help you dismantle the prefabricated equipment easily and without damaging the surface.
- Reinforced mesh, consisting of strong metal rods welded together by a point method, is a mandatory component of both monolithic marching staircases and spiral staircases.
It serves as a skeleton that prevents concrete from cracking and crumbling.
- After the formwork and reinforced mesh are ready, you can begin concreting monolithic stairs. It is worth noting that they are installed before the finishing of the home, during construction. Make sure the concrete is viscous and start pouring it into the formwork. It is more convenient to do this from the top step.
It is very important to ensure that there are no bubbles or voids; each freshly poured step must be compacted. For this purpose, a vibrating screed is used.
Staircase structures made of monolithic concrete can be used only after the surface has completely dried. It is better to leave facing work until completion interior decoration Houses.
Price
If you do not want to do the work yourself, you can turn to specialists.
The price of a monolithic concrete staircase in Moscow in this case will be approximately as follows:
Do-it-yourself monolithic concrete staircase: photo and video instructions
Concrete is a material of extraordinary strength and durability. But for the builder, its most interesting property is the plasticity of the newly prepared mixture. If structures from other materials are constructed, that is, they are composed of elements, then concrete ones are poured into a finished form.
Monolithic concrete stairs are, without a doubt, the most durable of all.
At the same time, the view can be more than fantastic. In this lesson you will learn how to make a monolithic concrete staircase with your own hands without involving specialists.
To do this, you only need desire, perseverance, patience and determination.
Types of construction
According to the method of manufacturing, concrete stairs are classified into two types:
- monolithic – march and landing, if provided, are a single whole and are manufactured as one structure.
The price for a monolithic concrete staircase varies depending on the structure;
- combined - march elements are produced separately. For example, it is installed metal carcass, and the steps for the stairs are made of concrete.
In the first case, the entire process is carried out at the installation site. In the second, the structure is only assembled on site.
Calculation, installation, pouring and finishing of concrete stairs with your own hands
The photo shows monolithic concrete stairs.
Necessary Requirements
Despite its other advantages, a concrete structure has one significant drawback for private construction - heavy weight.
Therefore, before deciding how to make a concrete staircase in your house, you first need to make sure that the wall and floor can withstand such a load.
A standard march 4 m long and 1 m wide weighs about 2.5 tons. The support of such a structure should be either a monolithic foundation or a reinforced concrete beam.
When installing in an already completed building, another difficulty may arise.
If a layer of heat insulation is placed under the coating, then it will be pressed under the weight of the march. Before installation, it is necessary to disassemble the floor and remove the insulation.
Construction of concrete stairs
This entire process is labor-intensive and time-consuming, since installation of formwork, pouring, and, most importantly, hardening of the material take a lot of time.
However, a DIY concrete staircase is a doable task.
Work on constructing a concrete staircase with your own hands is carried out in several stages:
- layout;
- formwork installation;
- reinforcement;
- pouring concrete.
Preliminary calculations
Making a concrete staircase will not require excessive effort if you consider its construction at the planning stage.
The easiest option is to make steps between two walls. And the formwork in this case is simple, and the volume of concrete is minimal.
If the building has already been built, then the arrangement of stairs will depend on the parameters of the room.
When choosing a project, you need to remember some features:
- the steeper the angle of the march, the less concrete will be required and the lower the price of the product will be.
But at the same time, the greater the slope, the more difficult it is to climb and descend;
- it is easier to build a landing than winder steps;
- for spiral staircases, it will require many formwork panels of non-standard shape, which will significantly complicate installation. The price also increases;
- When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account the recommended sizes of steps, otherwise it will be extremely inconvenient to use.
Manufacturing of formwork
Essentially this is wooden mold along which concrete is poured.
Formwork is constructed from plywood 12–18 mm thick or edged boards 3 cm thick.
- If the formwork for a concrete staircase is intended to be used once, then the material is not protected. If repeatedly, the product is covered with glassine, old linoleum, or roofing felt.
- The material is fastened with wood screws: nails are difficult to remove after concreting.
- For supports and temporary stands, timber with a cross-section of up to 10*10 cm is used. The number of supports is calculated based on the fact that a pine beam 3 m long can withstand up to 150 kg.
- All elements are cut from plywood or boards with a jigsaw and assembled according to the sketch.
In its finished form, the formwork looks like a model of a staircase, in which only the upper part of the steps and the landing are missing.
- It is better to make the side formwork from plywood, the bottom from boards, as shown in the photo.
Reinforcement of the staircase structure
Before the staircase formwork is poured with concrete, reinforcement is performed.
The metal frame significantly increases the strength of the product and prevents cracking and crumbling of concrete. Mounting rods and steel mesh are used.
- At the stage of installing the formwork in the wall, you need to make grooves for attaching the mounting rods.
- Transverse rods are fixed into the grooves, then longitudinal rods are laid - the step between them depends on the length of the span.
- Fastening of reinforcing bars is done either by spot welding or wire knitting.
The latter method is more appropriate for a small amount of work.
- The resulting frame mesh should rise 5–10 mm above the bottom. To do this, plastic bosses are installed under the mesh.
- The side edge of the step is reinforced with a reinforcing bar, the top - with a flat steel mesh, fixed to the main frame.
Concreting stairs
To pour concrete stairs, use a solution of at least B15 grade.
The composition is prepared independently in a concrete mixer. It is necessary to add at least 4 parts of crushed stone (fraction 10 - 20 millimeters) to the finished solution so that the concrete does not leak out of the formwork during pouring.
The technology for constructing concrete stairs involves the sequence of the following stages:
- Concreting stairs is done at a time, so it is advisable to prepare the solution in one portion.
- The formwork is wetted with water.
- Filling is done from bottom to top.
- The steps are compacted and carefully leveled with a trowel.
- Concrete surfaces are covered with film to prevent uneven drying.
- The formwork and supports are removed after the concrete has hardened - no earlier than after 4 weeks.
Concrete monolithic stairs are designed for the most severe operating conditions.
For external structures it is difficult to find a more durable and unpretentious material. Inside the building, the attractiveness of the structure is no less important. The most varied finishing is possible: wood paneling, artificial stone or ceramic tiles, or a combination of materials. The choice of design depends only on the features of the interior and personal tastes.
The video below will tell you in detail about the construction of a monolithic concrete staircase on your own!
Good luck with your construction!
Do-it-yourself monolithic concrete staircase: video
The stairs are difficult building construction, which should be characterized by high reliability, safety, durability, aesthetics and comfort. A concrete staircase meets all of the above standards. It is better to entrust the manufacture of concrete stairs to professionals. When carrying out work, you need to make correct calculations, create unique project and follow all steps of the step-by-step instructions.
Such a staircase is often installed in permanent or street buildings made of concrete and brick, its service life is more than 50 years, and the subsequent redecorating updates the design and extends the service life to 100 years.
Advantages of concrete stairs
Compared to wooden structure The laying of a concrete staircase is carried out during the construction of a private house. This is one of the details of the object that enhances the structural strength. Other advantages of the structure include:
- reliability, strength, long term services;
- moisture resistance, minimal risk of fire;
- the possibility of laying together with the building, which ensures savings;
- use of corrosion-resistant steel reinforcement;
- possibility of finishing with any building material;
- resistance to negative external factors and increased use.
Choosing the type of staircase
Before the beginning construction work you should decide on the type of construction, the shape of the staircase, and select suitable high-quality building materials. You should not save much on purchasing raw materials, as its quality can greatly affect the reliability and durability of the finished product. The staircase cannot be used immediately after pouring the steps, since the concrete will take up to 4 weeks to gain strength. Only after this can the formwork be removed. You also need to decide in advance on the location of the structure and the method of opening the doors.
By design, monolithic staircases are divided into straight (one- and two-flight), spiral (or screw). Screw options with winder steps have an aesthetic appearance; they are more in demand among consumers, but require formwork with a radial shape, so they are most often made to order.
An elementary option is a straight interfloor staircase with one flight, located between two walls. In this case, there will be no end parts of the structure, and the formwork is fastened to the walls. It is more difficult to make a semicircular or monolithic structure resting on one wall. To design the free end, you need to add one side part to the structure. You can choose a marching system where there are no supports on the walls (the lower and upper floors serve as load-bearing elements); the formwork is assembled with side elements.
But there is not always enough space to build a single-flight version, so preference is given to a two-flight version with winder steps or platforms between the flights.
Concrete stairs can also be monolithic, combined, prefabricated from factory-made flights, or type-set.
The first type is performed on site using the technology of pouring concrete mortar into the formwork, and can be installed anywhere (on the porch, street or basement).
Classic version completely monolithic design The second option is a metal structure complex shape(frame) with concrete steps. Each step is cast using formwork and reinforcing mesh, and is used as a building material marble chips and granite crushed stone. The dried surface is polished.
Prefabricated prefabricated flights are used mainly in apartment buildings, however, if desired and a small crane is available, this option can also take place. The main advantage is the price, the disadvantage is the limitation of standard sizes.
Typesetting types consist of concrete beam(stringers) and individual steps, which are rectangular, triangular, corner and with a groove. Reinforced concrete types are made in a factory according to specified dimensions and have a standard shape.
Staircases on steel stringers Calculation of stairs
Before starting construction work, you need to measure the space, make a diagram, drawing or project of the planned structure with a preliminary calculation of all elements and indicating the required dimensions. The drawing is developed reflecting design parameters, number of steps, height and width. As a rule, the height of the steps is 15-18 cm, and the minimum span width is 80-90 cm. You also need to take into account the thickness of the finishing material, know the building codes, carry out the work in stages, and do not forget about the presence of fences and embedded elements.
Climbing angle
The first parameter is the angle of inclination (lift), the value of which affects the length and height of the structure. So, with the same height, a product with a tilt angle of 25° will be longer than analogues with indicators of 35° and 45°.
The construction of a staircase structure with an angle of 45 degrees (span projection 3 meters) will require 2.35 times less building materials than for a product with an angle of 25° (span projection 6.4 m).
Optimal slope range 24 – 37 degrees According to the manual, you need to choose the elevation angle based on the appropriate size of the flight, the complexity of the structure and its comfort.
Step sizes
Having decided on the angle of inclination and height, the work of designing concrete stairs includes breaking them down into steps. The optimal step size for calculation is 27-30 cm in width and 16-20 cm in height. If you make higher steps, it will be more difficult for both the elderly and people who are accustomed to a standard step to move along them. Very low steps of less than 15 cm will also be uncomfortable for an adult, but for children this is the best option.
You can select the parameters of the steps using the formula: 2H+L = 60-64 cm, where H is the riser (step height), L is the tread (width). To calculate, you can take the above indicators: 2*18+30=66 cm.
Stair width
As a rule, the width of a staircase in a country house depends on the free space or space between the walls where it will be placed. It should not be narrower than 80 cm, since when climbing to the second floor along a narrow staircase (or descending from it), a person will feel like in a tunnel. It will also be inconvenient to carry any objects. Therefore, the optimal size would be 90-120 cm.
It is imperative to build a safe and secure fence, especially when elderly people and children live in the house. If the fence is located on the steps, it will slightly reduce the effective width of the flight, keep this in mind when calculating.
Online calculator for calculation
For your convenience, you can make all calculations using a convenient one.
Formwork assembly
After completing the calculations, you need to build the formwork yourself. For construction you will need the following materials:
- moisture-resistant plywood 1.2-1.8 cm thick, edged boards 3 cm thick for the bottom of the formwork, edging and risers;
- sheets moisture resistant plywood(0.6-0.9 cm each) for the manufacture of curved zones;
- support beams 10x10 cm or boards 15-17 cm wide and 5 cm thick for supports;
- beams 10x10 cm for mounting boards or plywood sheets;
- metal corners;
- fastenings (wood screws) 3.5 mm;
- concrete, trowel for leveling mortar, trowel, device for smoothing the edges of concrete structures.
To ensure that the concrete surface remains smooth after hardening, it is necessary to grind the wooden formwork parts in contact with the mortar. When using smooth plywood, no leveling procedures are required.
1 – timber for fastening formwork elements; 2 – tension beam; 3 – formwork winder stage; 4 – end formwork. The formwork must be assembled using the following steps:
- The lower part is made of large boards and plywood sheets. They are tightly fastened together with bars from the outside. The bottom of the structure is supported by beams or boards, and the pitch of the supports must correspond to the pitch of the steps. The parts are secured with self-tapping screws, which are convenient to unscrew during dismantling;
- on the sides they put a flange made of edged boards or plywood, reinforcing it on the outside with boards;
- install riser bars to the flange or wall with metal corners;
- joints in parts are sealed with a mortar of cement and sand or leveled with a plane or grinding machine.
Layout of formwork elements The thicker the beams, the higher the structural strength. The weight of a reinforced concrete structure will be large, which must be taken into account during the construction process. You can add additional rigidity using transverse bars.
Reinforcement
For a small staircase in a cottage, the reinforcement can be made with a mesh, which is tied from reinforcement measuring 1-1.2 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm (the size of the mesh cells will be 15x20 cm). The rods are connected with wire.
Large products must be made from a reinforcement frame, including several meshes mounted with vertical rods or welding. The distance between the grids is 2-3 cm.
The frame is the skeleton of the structure where the hardened concrete solution will be fixed, so its horizontal rods must be fixed in the wall, in pre-drilled holes. The mesh or frame is laid in the lower area of the formwork 2-3 centimeters from the bottom (the reinforcement can be raised using stands, bricks or stones). In the area where the railings are located, you need to place plugs or metal plates.
Pouring concrete
During concreting, a grade of concrete not lower than M200 (from class B15) is used. The solution is mixed in a concrete mixer or ordered from RBU and must contain the following components: 10 parts of cement, 30 parts of crushed stone fraction 10-20 mm, 20 parts of sand and 7 parts of water. If the composition is dense, you can add 3 parts of water.
Now you need to fill the composition correctly:
- the lower steps are performed first;
- the solution is compacted to give strength and density. To do this, you can use reinforcement, which is used to pierce the concrete in several areas. professionals recommend using a more reliable method - a construction vibrator, which squeezes concrete through the formwork;
- giving the steps the correct shape, smoothing them with a trowel;
- pouring the remaining elements and the porch;
- covering the solution with a film to protect it from cracks and early hardening. You can also regularly moisten the outer surface of the flooded area with water.
Removing formwork
Concrete gains strength within 4 weeks. After 7 days, you need to remove the boards from the steps and sides. The freed surfaces are leveled grinder or a grinder with a circle for processing concrete. After 21 days, the supporting beams from the lower area of the structure are removed. And only on the 28th day can the remaining formwork be completely removed.
Finish lining
A DIY concrete staircase can have different variants finishing: wood, laminate, tiles, carpet, acrylic stone or porcelain stoneware. Any material must be laid on a level base. After dismantling the formwork, uneven areas may remain on the site, which are recommended to be removed by sanding and plastering. The end parts are usually finished with plaster and painted. After this, the steps are covered with one of the materials.
The surface can be covered with tiles, artificial or natural stone with a rough surface. The material is laid on cement mortar or tile adhesive. Using the same technology, mosaics are laid using small elements original compositions.
Photo instructions for installing clinker steps The finishing can be done with wood panels that are resistant to abrasion. For this purpose, larch and exotic species that have undergone antiseptic treatment are selected.
Installation wood paneling larch An excellent treatment option is laminate, which is abrasion-resistant, easy to install and durable.
If children or elderly people live in the house, then you can choose carpet, available in different colors.
The final stage is finishing with carpet To save money, you can simply paint the steps with high-quality concrete paint.
Painting – cheap, but in its own way interesting option Anyway appearance stairs is associated with the taste preferences and financial capabilities of the owner.
The staircase has accompanied humanity for thousands of years. Still: more accessible and at the same time effective way Civilization has not yet invented moving up and down.
People, as a rule, spend their whole lives building a career ladder, but we’ll talk about a more pragmatic issue - namely: how to pour a concrete ladder.
Before you begin such an important task as pouring a concrete staircase with your own hands, you need to clarify the following fundamental points for yourself:
| How to pour concrete stairs: important points | Photo |
| General planning within the concept of a house or plot |
|
| Calculation of strength characteristics |
|
| Project cost calculation |
|
| What tools will be needed during production? |
|
| The appearance of the product plays a big role in the overall interior |
|
Important! Be sure to take into account the fact that the installation of concrete stairs, due to technological and design features, is only possible if its production is linked with general construction work at the time of construction of the house. Make a concrete staircase just like that or during current repairs in the house, in the vast majority of cases it will not work.
If you do not have experience in making reinforced concrete stairs, then pouring a concrete staircase to the porch would be an excellent opportunity to practice. Let's start with it.
Decorating the porch: first experience
How to fill it with your own strength and reasonable spending?
As a rule, such products have a permanent single-flight structure, are slightly limited in space, are not critical in calculating the static load on the base, and are easily finished with a full range of decorative materials suitable for outdoor use. The production price is also, perhaps, quite attractive.
Preliminary calculations: learning to draw
And in this case, you will not be limited in the choice of design and technological solutions.
Practice and instructions show that a concrete staircase for a porch has the following average parameters:
- step height 17-18 cm;
- the width of the step or as it is also called the stepping plane is 30 cm;
- one-piece staircase design with a combination of steps and risers;
- base - a foundation slab or strip made using classical technology.
A working perimeter is marked on the ground, which reflects the boundary dimensions, design features, places of abutment with other structures of the house, places of reinforcement or connection of stairs using special technological techniques.
Important! At least in the sketch, it is necessary to note the presence and design of fences, canopies, decorative lighting, anti-slip elements and anti-ice systems. Their dimensions, mounting methods, locations of power supply channels and other things. The presence of visual information will good help, and will allow you to lay down on time necessary elements into the overall design at the stage of rough work.
Construction of the foundation: cheap and not very
A rational solution would be to create a base slab on main anchors. On the one hand, this will significantly reduce the thickness of the base slab, on the other hand, it will save on the amount of reinforcement due to the absence of free or, as reinforcement specialists also call them, “empty” strands.
A root anchor is either a special product or reinforcement vertically buried in the base of the soil, whose cross-section is 2 times larger than the cross-section of the main reinforcement. Main anchors are installed in corners, abutments and other load-bearing structural units.
Strands of horizontally knitted reinforcement are fixed to the anchors as rigidly as possible, as a rule, electric arc welding. Wire knitting is not recommended.
Attention. For those who want to save on expensive reinforcement, subject to strong parent soil, small sizes stairs and the presence of nearby metallurgical enterprises, it is possible to organize a load-bearing foundation cushion using slag-water technology.
Be sure to ensure that the waste slag has been released from the blast furnace, as electrometallurgical slags are essentially devoid of Portland cement. A significant disadvantage of this method should be considered the longer period of time for the maturation of the mass, compared to monolithic concrete according to the classical recipe.
Assembling formwork: Lego constructor in an adult way
Perhaps this is the most crucial moment in the entire process. Not only depends on the fact how carefully and accurately you can put all the elements together aesthetic perception future product, but also strength and durability.
And since the house begins with a porch, the importance of this element should not be underestimated.
Modern technologies provide for the use of standard inventory prefabricated formwork when performing concrete work, which simplifies and speeds up the process by several orders of magnitude. But in view of them high cost, the use of such elements is justified in the manufacture of a series of similar structures.
In other cases, a commercial edged board “inch” with a thickness of 25 mm is quite sufficient. Or sheet plastic, if you plan to have radius elements in the staircase design, for example, rounded encircling steps, gates, etc.
Attention. It should be taken into account that a large number of radius elements will create objective difficulties during the subsequent finishing of the finished staircase. Straight-line cutting of ceramics, porcelain stoneware, artificial and natural stone is much more technologically advanced than curved cutting.
When deciding how to pour a concrete staircase with your own hands, in addition to the edged board, you will need:
- phosphated self-tapping screw with large pitch on wood;
- persistent metal corners for high-quality connection of corner elements, which are easy to make yourself;
- marking square;
- roulette.
Another question: how to pour concrete stairs not only efficiently, but also quickly? It is hardly possible to do without small-scale mechanization.
The most desirable tools are:
- hand-held circular saw or jigsaw with an extended blade of 150 mm;
- corded or cordless screwdriver;
- vibration grinding machine for removing irregularities on planes, transitions, ridges of an already hardened product.
The board is dissolved into its component elements; in this case, during the marking process, the thickness of the mating overlap, equal to the thickness of the board, should be taken into account. Undoubtedly, it is worth taking care of the manufacture of spacers that will ensure that the flat elements remain perpendicular when a load is applied to them when pouring concrete stairs.
Subsequent tiers will fully provide wooden blocks small cross-section, easy to install.
Reinforcement cage set: skeletons in the closet
The old concrete workers gave these unsightly names to the two main operations. A set of formwork was used to “knock together a coffin or a cabinet,” and by lashing reinforcement, a “skeleton” was placed there. And the names are very true in essence.
The life expectancy of the ladder directly depends on the strength and quality of the skeleton. The basic techniques for tying reinforcement are quite widely known and are clearly described.
Let us repeat that it is useful to weld the fundamental nodes using electric arc welding, and the cells of the plane are connected by a loop node with knitting steel wire. Under production conditions, it is subjected to medium-temperature annealing, which causes the steel to have high ductility and softness.
When laying the bottom layer of reinforcing mesh, do not forget to hang it evenly above the “sole” at a distance of at least 30 mm.
Select the thickness of the reinforcing mesh and the mesh size based on reasonable economic needs and the specific design of the product.
When assembling the frame, be sure to cover future technological channels and nests of embedded elements with plugs. At the same time, a pre-prepared technological sketch or drawing of the future product will come in handy.
Pouring a concrete mass: from water to stone
The practice-tested recipe for preparing a concrete mixture is as follows:
- Portland cement (10 parts);
- crushed stone fraction 10-20 mm (30 parts);
- sand mass (20 parts);
- water (7 parts).
Important. The work of pouring concrete on the steps must be carried out in a single operation, without interrupting it over time. Otherwise, incomplete closure of the artificial stone array is possible. Professional concrete workers call this phenomenon “layer cake,” sometimes adding “grandmother’s cake.”
The pouring operation must begin from the bottom, carefully monitoring the preservation of the strength of the formwork structure under the resulting load, and promptly leveling the weakened and displaced spacers. When filling the frame with the mass, ensure that all sinuses and undercuts are well filled, preventing the formation of voids and cavities.
The video in this article shows the key points of manufacturing technology and the procedure.
The use of a vibrator makes it possible to obtain a denser and higher-quality array. In extreme cases, concrete steps can be poured without it. How a budget option A hand tamper will also work.
If the first experiment ended successfully, the calculations and technological nuances were taken into account, it is worth moving on to a more complex option, making a concrete staircase to the second floor with your own hands.
Interfloor staircase: higher and higher and higher
How to pour a concrete staircase to the second floor without involving hired workers, without spending extra money, and having confidence in the quality of the work performed.
Having decided to take such a step, you need to know exactly how to properly pour a concrete staircase, and what not to do, since such critical elements do not forgive mistakes.
Based on the layout of the room and other nuances, you immediately need to decide on the type of staircase that will connect the floors:
| Type of stairs | Design Features | Application |
| Monolithic single-flight staircase with riser
|
The side ends can be of open or closed type, which means use both in the inter-wall space and as a separate independent structure |
|
| Single-flight staircase with a monolithic stringer and a through-type step without risers
|
|
|
| Multi-flight stairs of monolithic and through types, including stairs with intermediate turning platforms
|
|
|
| , complex multi-radius structures with both closed and open stages
|
|
|
Technical nuances: briefly about the main thing
We have figured out the main aspects of the issue: concrete stairs - how to pour them correctly. There are some nuances left:
- In general, making a concrete staircase to the second floor is no different in technology from making a staircase for the porch of a house. The following features should be noted. The grade of ready-made concrete should not be lower than B-15
- As an inert filler for self-cooking concrete mixture it is advisable to use granite crushed stones fr.5-25 with a minimum content of flakiness and dusty inclusions. The use of enriched quartz with a modulus of 0.8-1.1 is encouraged as sand.
- How to fill concrete steps with a solution of such a thick consistency? On initial stage You can’t do without dexterity, and then the acquired skills will do their job, and the concrete will flow like clockwork.
- When preparing the base, you cannot use the floors of the lower floor, thermally insulated using foam plastics, mineral wool, and similar materials. Otherwise, it is necessary to cut off the insulating sandwich and pour solid reinforced load-bearing slab.
The location of flights of stairs at angles exceeding critical values is not allowed.
A progressive step when constructing a load-bearing frame should be considered the use of reinforcement not cut, but bent along the profile of the structure.
This reduces the occurrence of internal stresses by an order of magnitude and increases the overall resistance of the load-bearing frame to tearing, fracture and torsion. It is convenient to bend the reinforcing bar using roller-lever devices.
Do not forget about the “one day” rule - that is, the entire structure must be poured at once, without a break in time. Well, remember the order is from bottom to top. This will avoid the appearance of voids and cavities. Video: pouring a concrete staircase can be viewed several times, focusing on important points.
In conclusion, it should be noted that making a concrete staircase with your own hands, subject to basic technological techniques, is not a complicated process.
However, it should be remembered that the domestic legislator clearly regulated such work. state standards 9818-85 “Marches and landings of reinforced concrete stairs”, which must be taken into account when carrying out independent work, and then poured concrete stairs will serve faithfully for many years.
The classic concrete entrance staircase is one of the standard designs used almost everywhere. Thanks to the use of standard materials and the reliability of the entire structure, concrete stairs are often made by hand in private homes. At the same time, its type and shape are often limited only by the availability of free time for the calculation and production of formwork. If it is possible to order work on the side, then only standard solutions there is more than enough in company catalogs.
What you need to know before installation - pros and cons
Before making a concrete staircase, you need to know its advantages and disadvantages - this will help you finally decide on the choice of shape and material.
Comparison of materials on video:
Advantages of concrete structures:
- The strength of the structure will give odds to any others made of wood or metal. If you correctly reinforce a concrete staircase, then its safety factor allows you not to think about the load on the surface.
- After complete drying, a rough concrete staircase can be used for moving or carrying building materials, and after all work is completed, the final finishing can be done.
- Repair of a concrete structure will not be necessary during its entire service life. It requires minimal care, often cosmetic.
- The monolithic reinforced concrete staircase is completely silent - it does not make creaks or other sounds.
- Concrete is a moisture-resistant, fireproof and temperature-resistant material. Not susceptible to rotting or damage by insects.
- There are very few restrictions on the shape of the structure and other design solutions.
Concrete structures have much fewer disadvantages, but they must also be taken into account:
- Weight. Depending on the size, monolithic concrete stairs can weigh up to two or three tons - if the steps extend beyond the foundation of the house, then the possibility of their uneven shrinkage must be taken into account.
- Labor intensity. Before you make a concrete staircase with your own hands, you need to create a wooden formwork, which, in fact, is a rough wooden staircase - concrete will then be poured into it.
- Price. To pour concrete stairs, you need a frame pre-made from formwork, in which the reinforcement is laid and only then concreting is done. Therefore, the production of concrete stairs will cost more than any other analogues.
Types of staircase structures
The main division is into entrance (front) and high-rise. In the first case, they are used to simply get into the house, and high-rise ones are used for direct access to the second floor or to the cellar (basement). Each of them, in turn, has its own varieties and forms.
Even a standard concrete staircase in a private house can be of any geometric shape: usually rectangular, but there is no difficulty in creating rounded, multifaceted or combined structures, the choice of which depends on the overall design of the building.
Depending on the height to which you need to ascend or descend, the second type of staircases is divided into single-flight and rotary, with two or more landings. A separate category are rotary semicircular or screw varieties. If you are making a concrete staircase to the second floor with your own hands, then you must take into account the need for an exit platform. The only exception is if top floor there is already a terrace to which the upper flight of stairs will be adjacent.
The staircase to the basement is made according to the same principle as to the second floor, but its manufacture is a little simpler - by making the steps to the basement with your own hands, you can install the formwork directly on the ground. Before this, it is recommended to thoroughly compact its surfaces and cover it with sand. If you have time, it is recommended to do this work in the fall and pour the concrete in the spring. If everything needs to be done at once, then special attention must be paid to tamping. The better it is done, the less likely it is that voids will occur due to soil subsidence.
Various types of structures in the following video:
Self-installation of concrete stairs
To take on the production of a concrete staircase, you need the skills of a carpenter, welder and mechanic, and in addition, know how to calculate the impact of massive structures on their support points. Even standard entrance concrete stairs without any special frills will be an additional load on the foundation, which must be taken into account if they are built separately.
The work order is as follows:
Calculation of a flight of stairs
The first step when calculating a staircase is not even calculating its dimensions, but assessing the place where it will stand. The weight of one cube of concrete is about 2.5 tons, so concrete stairs for a house, depending on the design, will weigh about 2-3 tons. If there is no load-bearing slab in the place where the lower steps will rest, then installation will be a big question. IN ideal, the staircase must be designed when drawing up the house plan and the foundation strip must pass through the place where it is installed.
You also need to think in advance about how the finishing will be done - if you opt for decorative stone, then this decision will additionally make the entire structure heavier.
Next, you need to decide on the angle of elevation - comfortable movement is possible with a slope of 30-40°. In this case, the height of one step will be about 17 cm and the width 28-30. In rare cases, it is allowed to make steps at an angle of 45°. Considering the high cost of dismantling concrete structures, it is recommended in this case to find a staircase with such a slope in advance and evaluate for yourself whether it is worth walking on it from year to year or looking for an alternative.
In the case where a slope of 45° is still considered appropriate, it is worth adding so-called overhangs to the design of concrete steps for such stairs - they will increase their width.
If you plan to create a spiral concrete staircase, then the width of the step along the inner radius will be less than with outside. In this case, the calculation is carried out taking into account the fact that most often people will move along the steps a little further than their middle, closer to the outer radius.
It should also be taken into account that spiral staircases can often have a shifted center of gravity - this is especially true for half-turn structures. In such cases, it is advisable to “support” them against a load-bearing wall or column. To accurately calculate such structures, you must have knowledge of theoretical mechanics - if you don’t have it, then it is better to entrust the construction of such a massive structure to specialists.
Installation of formwork
This is the most critical stage, the quality of which determines appearance finished product and accuracy of concrete pouring. In fact, the formwork copies the structure of a concrete staircase, repeating its shape.
And the reinforcement in the video:
The installation procedure and required materials are as follows:
- Plywood or boards for the base and side walls. – it is advisable to use laminated one, about 20 mm thick. If you use boards, then 3 cm thick or more. For spiral staircases, the formwork of curved surfaces is made of 9 mm plywood, reinforced with spacers.
- First, the bottom of the formwork is made - the base for steps and flights is set at the desired angle, onto which the sidewalls will then be attached. If the staircase is made close to the load-bearing wall, then you can do exactly the opposite - mark and fasten the sidewalls on the wall itself, repeating the shape of the steps for the stairs, then attach the base to them and fix everything with lower and side struts.
If the staircase to the second floor made of monolithic concrete is adjacent closely to the load-bearing wall, then reinforcement must be fixed in it, and if a two-flight structure is used, a groove must be made at the place where the flight is poured, which will serve as additional adhesion.
- 100*100 mm beams are used to support the formwork when concrete is poured into it. It is important to ensure that after strengthening there is not the slightest play in the base, since this is a guaranteed deformation of the entire structure.
When the base is ready, the entire formwork is waterproofed. For this polyurethane foam all the cracks are blown in, but you need to make sure that if possible it does not crawl inside - in this case, it will leave grooves on the surface of the finished staircase.
Installation of reinforcement
Reinforced concrete greatly enhances the tensile and shear strength of ordinary concrete, so stairs must be made using this technology.
For convenience, the reinforcing layer is performed before installing the step slabs. Essentially, a frame is made from reinforcement with a cross-section of about 10 mm, repeating the shape of the staircase, but not reaching the future surface of the concrete by about 3 cm. In order for the reinforcement to “hang” in the air, fasteners are placed under it to hold it suspended.
At intersections, or tied tightly with wire. You should get a net with square meshes with a side of 20 cm.
Particular attention should be paid to the place where the lower step contacts the floor. To do this, metal pins are driven (concreted) into its surface, to which the step reinforcement is attached.
When the reinforcement is ready, the formwork is finally fixed - the sides for the steps are installed and boards are placed on top so that you can walk on them while the mortar is pouring and drying.
Pouring concrete
In order for the structure to be monolithic, concrete stairs must be poured in one go, so you should prepare a reliable concrete mixer with a sufficient drum volume and invite an assistant. It is recommended to use concrete grades M250-300 - it is strong enough and light enough for such structures.
Approximate ratio of components: one bucket of water, two cements of the M-400 brand, 4 buckets of crushed stone and two sand, plus 10 grams of superplasticizer c-3
Also, for pouring concrete stairs, pieces of reinforcement that will be convenient to hold in your hand, a trowel, a bucket and a vibrator will be useful. concrete mixtures, with a nozzle of such a size that it passes freely through the reinforcement.
The procedure for filling the formwork:
- As a standard, the solution is poured starting from the bottom step or two. If too liquid concrete is used, it is recommended to initially pour the first step and let it dry, but it is better to make a monolithic structure and cover the first step with a board.
- Then the concrete is bayoneted and processed with a vibrator.
- Steps 3 and 4 are poured, while the solution in the first two may begin to be squeezed out - a bucket and trowel will come in handy here - the excess concrete must be collected and poured onto the upper steps.
- Next, the remaining steps are poured in the same way and marching platform, if it is in the design.
The whole process is clearly shown in the video:
After pouring, the surface of the steps is finally leveled with a trowel and left to dry. After 2-3 days, when the concrete has set, its surfaces can be sanded.
During the hardening process of concrete, its surface must be periodically moistened with water, which will increase its strength.
The order and timing of stripping
It is not recommended to walk on the formwork until the solution has completely dried, even if it is entrance staircase into the house, it is necessary to prepare in advance other possibilities for access to the premises.
The drying time of the concrete solution is about 2 weeks. The formwork boards can be removed from the steps after about a week to initially assess the quality of the pour. After another week, you can completely remove the side boards, and three weeks after pouring, you can safely remove the support beams.
When the concrete has completely hardened, the ladder can be used to move around the house, dragging tools and other equipment.
After the repair is completed, the concrete staircase can be finally sanded and a suitable finishing option can be chosen for it - overhead steps made of wood, laminate or tile.