Installation of a monolithic belt on brickwork. Is it possible to make an armored belt from brick

A reinforced belt (reinforced belt) is a closed reinforced structure that follows the outline of the building walls and blocks their deformation as a result of load redistribution. That is, the armored belt allows you to avoid the effects of adverse weather conditions, when the house shrinks, soil settles, etc. The reinforcement can be made of reinforced concrete or brick. The armored belt acquires particular relevance when constructing houses from building materials that are not resistant to deformation.

- This is ordinary masonry, reinforced with reinforcement. At first glance, this approach is simpler than pouring a full-fledged monolithic reinforced concrete belt with reinforcement. However, is this approach sufficient? Will such reinforced masonry replace a full-fledged armored belt? First, let's figure out what types of arm belts there are and what functions are assigned to them.

Main functions of the armored belt

strengthening walls;
ensures uniform distribution of loads;
prevents the formation of cracks;
promotes leveling of brickwork;
maintaining the integrity of the structure during shrinkage of the house.

Types of reinforced belts

It is customary to distinguish 4 types of reinforced belts.

Grillage.

Grillage- this is the lower, sub-foundation armored belt, which is the key to the strength of the entire building. In addition, it can connect columnar and pile foundation piles. The height of the grillage is from 30 to 50 cm, width - 70 - 120 cm. For production, reinforcement with a thickness of 12 - 14 mm is used. For greater reliability and durability, concrete should cover the reinforcement frame by 5 cm on each side.

Base armored belt

It is laid around the entire perimeter external walls. If the ceiling is slabs, it is recommended to do it on all load-bearing walls. The main function of the base reinforced belt is to distribute loads on the foundation. Mesh reinforcement with a height of 20 - 40 cm is used;

Interfloor (unloading) belt

It is constructed to strengthen and tighten the walls, as well as to prevent the formation of cracks. In addition, it absorbs and distributes the load of the entire structure. Placed on all load-bearing walls;

Armobelt under the Mauerlat

An armored belt under the Mauerlat - performs a number of useful functions: it allows you to securely fasten the Mauerlat itself, distributes the load from the roof, gables, rafter system, and levels the horizontal of the entire structure being erected. It is mounted along the perimeter of external walls, in some cases (with inclined rafters) - on the middle load-bearing wall. When creating a reinforcement frame, the studs are placed above it. A thread is made at the end of the rods, and corresponding holes are made in the Mauerlat. After the poured concrete has hardened and gained strength, a Mauerlat is installed on the studs and secured with bolts.

When manufacturing armored belts, special requirements are placed on the quality of concrete. It is recommended to use cement grade no lower than M200. The concrete mixture is poured at once, which will allow it to harden evenly and set well. For higher strength, concrete is periodically wetted.

Is it worth making an armored belt out of brick?

So is it worth the risk and instead of making a full-fledged armored belt from concrete and reinforcement, make an armored belt from brick? In our opinion - no! Brick masonry is only slightly stronger than block masonry, even if it is reinforced. Two or three rows of bricks will not be able to evenly distribute the entire load along the walls. This will result in some fragments and sections of the brickwork experiencing high blood pressure, compared to the rest of the wall, and this is dangerous due to the appearance of cracks and even complete destruction of the wall. Therefore, it would be right not to take risks and make full reinforcement with an armored belt made of reinforced concrete.

Monolithic belt is a reinforced reinforced concrete beam, which is done mainly under the ceiling in masonry walls.

At first glance, the purpose of such a belt is unclear: you can, after all, support the ceiling directly on the masonry and not install any belts. As they say, “cheap and cheerful.” Let’s look at the reasons for constructing a monolithic belt.

1. If the masonry material of the walls does not bear the load from the floor. In a brick wall made of solid brick, for example, a monolithic belt is not needed, but in a wall made of cinder block, when supporting the ceiling of a large span, such a belt is necessary.

At the point where the slab is supported, a significant load is concentrated (from the ceiling, floors, people and furniture), and all of it does not fall evenly on the wall, but increases in the direction where the slabs are supported. Some masonry materials (cinder block, foam and aerated concrete, shell rock, etc.) do not work well when exposed to such a concentrated load, and may simply begin to collapse. This type of failure is called crushing. You can perform a special masonry calculation to determine whether a monolithic distribution belt is needed. But in some cases (when using cinder block, foam concrete), a monolithic belt must be made for design reasons based on experience in construction from these materials.

2. If the building is being built on weak soils (for example, subsidence). Such soils have the property that after some time, when soaking or other unfavorable factors, significantly deform - compress under the weight of the building. In this case, part of the house may sag, resulting in cracks in the walls and foundation. One of the measures that protects against adverse effects subsidence is the installation of a continuous monolithic belt under the floors. It serves as a screed for the house and, with minor precipitation, can prevent the formation of cracks. If you are going to build a house, first of all inspect the houses in the neighboring areas (preferably those that were built a long time ago). If there are inclined cracks in the walls, running from the ground up, from the roof down, or from the corners of the windows up, then this is the first sign that a monolithic belt in your house will not be superfluous.

3. If a house is being built in a seismic area (in Ukraine this is Crimea), the installation of monolithic belts is mandatory.

4. In multi-storey buildings, the standards also require the installation of monolithic belts.

How to make a monolithic belt - see the topic "Prefabricated floor or monolith" .

Attention! For the convenience of answering your questions, a new section “FREE CONSULTATION” has been created.

Comments

0 #61 Irina 05/06/2013 19:00

I quote Angelina Wat:

I want as much as I need, because every builder thinks and speaks differently

In order to find out how much of something is needed, you need to know what is available: the layout of the house, the presence of load-bearing walls or columns, the distance between them, loads on top floor from floors, partitions - this is the required minimum.

Hello! The foundation is not buried. Partly - self-construction, but the path of construction was determined by a man who has been involved in foundations for more than 50 years, a professor at our University, an honored builder of the Republic of Karelia (and other regalia).
If the soil was normal, coarse crushed stone was brought in in very large quantities, poured at a height of about 50-70 cm above the ground level, and in area protruding beyond the perimeter of the future foundation by a couple of meters on each side. Leveled. Then a large construction vibratory roller was found (it was working half a kilometer away at the site), which hammered this crushed stone for a couple of hours. To be honest, only the first “passes” of the vibratory roller apparently drilled through the crushed stone. After this, to level the horizon level, thin layer on top of the crushed stone there is sand. Next is waterproofing along the top, formwork and reinforcement. I knitted the reinforcement for the first time, myself. 14th reinforcement, along the perimeter and in the area of load-bearing walls (under the wall and a meter to the right and left) every 10 centimeters, the rest - 15 cm. Two planes at a distance of 30 centimeters from each other. They recommended knitting the reinforcement less frequently, and a thickness of 30 centimeters is sufficient. A foundation 12 by 12 meters took 5 tons of reinforcement, and with a thickness of 42 cm - 66 cubic meters of concrete grade 250. I understand that I may have over-laid the foundation a little, but that year I was looking for people to do foundation work. For the work they asked for 200 thousand rubles. and higher. I decided that it was better to invest this money in the foundation than in improving the well-being of strangers. During the two weeks of vacation, we slowly tied the reinforcement with the help of my father. I was confident in every detail. They filled it with imported concrete in 5 hours using a concrete pump at the Isuzu vehicle base. I plan to start laying the walls as soon as the snow melts; the bricks are already on the site. I will reinforce the walls conscientiously. Now I'm looking for decent masons. They have too many demands at the moment. They ask for 2800 rubles for rough masonry. per cube, and additional payments for every movement of the hand and turn of the head.
They push it under the slabs to make an armored belt 5 cm thick, with two thin reinforcement bars inside. It is clear that this, like an armored belt, is of little use. Just a leveling screed. It’s clear that you’ll have to do the screed this way, but is it worth bothering with a full-fledged armored belt 30-40 centimeters thick and appropriate reinforcement - THAT’S THE QUESTION! I would be grateful for any constructive advice. The fact is that with aerated concrete there would be no questions, I would definitely do it. And with bricks - it’s not clear yet. It seems that brick, as a material for load-bearing walls in private housing construction, has generally gone out of fashion. All are built exclusively from aerated concrete.

After you've finished construction of a concrete block foundation or laid it out of rubble stone, it must be done. Some inexperienced developers, not understanding the importance of a monolithic belt, do not make it, trying to save money on it. And this is an unforgivable mistake! The monolithic reinforced concrete belt of your home is a kind of strong and reliable belt on your trousers, which, regardless of how and where you rip your trousers, tear off a button or zipper, will keep them on you in any situation! (For some reason, such an association came to my mind! 🙂 The main task of such a belt is to ensure the strength of the foundation in the event of local subsidence of the soil underneath it. In addition, such a belt connects the entire foundation into one, which gives it additional spatial rigidity.

The minimum height of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is 200 mm. As a rule, it is carried out across the entire width of the foundation, because it is much easier and easier to install. formwork for monolithic belt. The quality of the monolithic belt directly depends on the quality of the formwork. Previously, formwork for a monolithic reinforced concrete belt was made from edged boards 40 mm thick. The material is not bad, in principle, it may be enough for the construction of one house. And yet, the quality of the front surface of the belt with such formwork is low. It is best to use moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard for formwork. For several years now we have been making formwork for monolithic belts from moisture-resistant chipboard. Having cut the sheet, which has dimensions of 2500x1250mm, lengthwise into two equal parts, you need to strengthen the resulting blanks with dimensions of 2500x620mm wooden slats with a cross section of 40x40 or 50x50mm, securing it around the perimeter with 3.5x55mm screws. Also, in order to ensure that the middle of the formwork panels does not sag over time due to high humidity, it is necessary to strengthen it with several short slats of the same cross-section. Before installing such formwork panels, they must be opened each time with any water-repellent composition. The easiest option is to use used motor oil.

We install these formwork panels by using
metal pins with a diameter of 12-16mm. The length of such studs should exceed not only the width of the future belt, but also the thickness of the formwork. To the resulting size you need to add another 40-50mm - for nuts and washers. Using such a pin, we tighten two panels together, and in order to accurately maintain the required width of the monolithic belt and easily remove the pin after the concrete has set, we use liners made from the cheapest plumbing plastic pipe with a diameter of 16-20 mm. In the photo, everything that I am trying to explain in words, you can see and understand the principle of installing formwork for a monolithic belt in this way. Install the studs in

two tiers: the lower tier is laid directly on the foundation, under the lower reinforcement of the frame, while the plastic tube serves as a kind of guarantor of the mandatory 20 mm protective layer of concrete for the reinforcement. The top tier of studs sits directly above the bottom tier. Depending on the height of the belt, for the upper studs, if they are higher than the concrete, tube liners may not be used.

For a shield 2500 mm long you need six of these studs. Holes for studs are best made in vertical reinforcement bars

formwork panels. In this case, the shields will last you much longer. I write “pin”, although in fact a metal rod is suitable for such fastening required diameter with threads 50 mm long cut on each side. Alternatively, you can make a stud with threads on only one side, securing a plug of any material on the other side.

This method of installing formwork is very convenient because it does not require large quantity additional wooden fastening for securing the boards. Depending on the height of the chord, only a few struts will be required to ensure the verticality of the installed formwork. Reinforcement frames and meshes It is best tied using tying wire, but can also be made using a welding machine. The height of the frame should be less height 40mm belts. The frame of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is made of A-III reinforcement with a diameter of 10-14 mm, which is arranged in two tiers. For a wall 400mm wide, three reinforcement bars in two tiers are sufficient. BP-I wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm can be used as mounting fittings.

First, reinforcement cages are laid on the wall, after which the formwork is installed. You can mark the top of the concrete belt on the formwork using a level, a hydraulic level or a regular

level, although the latter can only be used with a short belt length. The standard grade of concrete for a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is M250. It is best to lay it in formwork using an in-depth vibrator, the use of which guarantees the high quality of the finished belt. By the way, the use of such studs will definitely prevent the concrete from pushing the formwork apart. If you are going to fill monolithic reinforced concrete belt small width, these studs can also be used, regardless of their length, by inserting additional liners from the outside of the stud so that the nut can press the outer liner to the formwork.

After you remove the formwork, only the end of the tube with the hole will be visible on its surface. Having filled it with polyurethane foam or simply mortar, the installation of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt can be considered complete.

Armopoyas is a monolithic reinforced concrete structure. The belt has a circular outline, fits on the walls, and has no breaks (gaps) in its body. The solution to the question: how to properly make an armored belt begins with the installation of formwork. The most accessible formwork material is board. The formwork for the armored belt is made either from separate boards or from ready-made wooden panels connected to each other from the outside with wooden scraps. The bottom of the boards is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. At the top, the opposite walls of the formwork are connected wooden ties(on nails). The spacing of the ties is 80 cm, but not more than 100 cm.

Do-it-yourself armored belt

When making an armored belt with your own hands, you can use another option for creating it, in which the formwork is not wooden structures, and the U-shaped blocks are made of aerated concrete. Trough blocks are laid the same width as the wall, and have a cavity inside for laying connected reinforcement frame and concrete. It is especially advantageous to install a belt with such “formwork” on external walls, because the side walls of the U-shaped blocks act as insulation and eliminate the formation of cold “bridges.” The disadvantage of tray blocks is their high price.

Height of armored belt

The geometric and technical characteristics of a monolithic structure are determined by calculation. Usually the width of the belt is equal to the width of the wall, 30-50cm. Since the support of a prefabricated or monolithic floor on the walls is only 120 cm (in practice - 150-200 cm), based on this, the width of the belt can be taken smaller. The recommended height of the armored belt is 30cm.

In cottages where it is planned to create light floors, installation in the belt is allowed flat frame. The ladder frame is prepared directly on the wall, directly in the formwork. It consists of 2 rods (for a wide wall 3 rods) of a periodic profile (calculated diameter), connected to each other by transverse rods. The spacing of the rods is 50 cm. The reinforced belt under the floor slabs carries higher loads. Therefore, the frame is made three-dimensional from 4 or 6 longitudinal reinforcing bars and tied with transverse wire clamps.

Armopoyas for aerated concrete

The frame must have a protective layer of concrete of 4-5 cm on all sides. From below it is laid on supports made of brick or concrete chips. It should be noted that the armored belt is installed on aerated concrete not only on external walls, but also on load-bearing internal walls. And if along the length of the wall transverse rods and clamps can be connected with knitting wire, then at the corners of the structure and in places where the frame branches into internal load-bearing walls, the connection of longitudinal reinforcement and transverse elements is performed by welding. The level of the frame is set strictly horizontally.

When installing a roof truss structure, its bottom row, the Mauerlat, is attached to the load-bearing wall with special anchors and studs. The rafter system itself creates a bursting load, which can lead to deformation of the walls. Armored belt under the roof ensures wall strength and stable rigidity roofing system. It will be performed similarly to the procedure for installing a monolithic belt under the ceiling. The armored belt under the Mauerlat serves both to distribute the load over the entire surface of the wall and to insert fasteners for the Mauerlat itself.

How to fill an armored belt

Problem: how to fill the armored belt is solved at the final stage of constructing a monolithic structure. For pouring, you can use ready-made commercial concrete mix M200 (B15). Another option is to produce concrete at the construction site. M400 cement, sand and crushed stone are taken in a ratio of 1:3:5. All components are loaded into a concrete mixer, water is added to the desired consistency and mixed. It is important that concrete is poured into the formwork continuously and not in parts. To remove air bubbles from the mixture, after pouring the concrete mixture should be vibrated or the concrete should be intensively pierced along the entire length of the belt with a piece of reinforcement.

Reinforced belt for aerated concrete made of bricks

In practice, as an option for strengthening wall structures, an armored belt for aerated concrete is sometimes made from brick. It is a conventional solid brick masonry reinforced with reinforcement. Reinforcement is in progress masonry mesh from wire: 4-5mm through each row of masonry in height. The solution is cement-sand in a ratio of 1:4. The height of the brick belt is taken from 20 cm to 40 cm. The width of the belt can correspond to the width of the wall, but perhaps narrower. Of course, an armored belt made of brick cannot be called equivalent in strength characteristics to a reinforced concrete belt. However, it is reliable when building houses in areas with low seismic activity or for the construction of auxiliary facilities and outbuildings.

Insulation of armored belt

To prevent the reinforced belt from becoming a “bridge” of cold and to avoid the formation of condensation on it, it is necessary to insulate the armored belt. Therefore, monolithic or brick belt, most often, they are not performed across the entire width of the wall, but with an indentation from its outer edge. It is important to maintain a minimum width of the reinforced belt, equal to 20 cm for concrete and 25 cm for brick. The resulting longitudinal niches are filled with heat-insulating material, which are partition aerated concrete blocks laid on spoons (10 cm), polystyrene foam slabs and other materials.

A reinforced monolithic or brick belt gives the building structures of a house made of aerated concrete blocks increased strength. And for all household members, it becomes a guarantor of a safe, long and happy stay in a new home.

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The feasibility of constructing a reinforced belt

In what cases is it necessary to strengthen the structure? Is it possible to do without it? The seismic belt is poured in the following situations:

insufficiently deep foundation;
ravines and ponds are located in close proximity;
the building was built in mountainous terrain;
possible shrinkage of the soil under the building;
the object is located in a seismic zone.

What is the support frame for?

Row modern materials used in construction, has a range of advantages. But due to insufficient rigidity, they negatively perceive point forces. You can prevent destruction by installing an armored belt. This event is a justified necessity for modern buildings, including brick ones.

Overlapping the roof affects the building with two types of forces:

Vertical effective load transmitted by the mass of the roof and external factors: wind load, snow cover, seismic components. Spot impact roof truss transforms into uniformly distributed.
A thrust force transmitted to the base by supported rafters. The roof is trying to force the building apart. This is counteracted by a steel bar reinforced belt.

Functional purpose

The reinforced frame performs a number of important tasks:

maintaining the contour and preventing wall deformation during soil shrinkage and earthquakes;
leveling the structure being erected in the horizontal plane and eliminating errors made during laying;
ensuring the rigidity of the building under construction;
distribution of local or point forces along the supporting plane of load-bearing surfaces;
fixation of a closed line, which is the basis for fastening the roof.

Regardless of your plans to place an attic above the first floor of the house, the next floor or the roof, remember that you need to take care of strengthening the structure!

Features of preparatory activities

A serious requirement when constructing a belt reinforced with steel bars is compliance with the dimensions.

The wall should correspond as much as possible to the thickness of the walls, representing a square section structure with a side size of at least 250 millimeters. If the construction of the building is carried out from aerated concrete, then the final row is laid with special blocks of a U-shaped configuration. This chain is a formwork for filling with concrete mortar. In a situation where the construction of a house is carried out from brick, the external contour is formed by installing bricks at half the thickness, and the internal contour is made from boards.

When constructing a frame, pay attention to its continuity along the entire perimeter of the object. General system The roof of the house includes special elements: ledges or ridge racks, resting on other walls of the building that are not permanent. In this situation, a reinforcement frame should also be built on them. Check the horizontalness of the top edge using a water level.

Sequence of preparatory operations

For an armored belt, you can complete all stages of work with your own hands if you carefully study technological process and purchase everything you need in a timely manner. Installation work stages include:

Preparing for installation. How to make formwork strong? What materials are needed? To arrange the frame, use ordinary wooden boards having a thickness of at least 40 millimeters. The width of the boards should be about 200 millimeters. Using special guide elements, it is necessary to fasten the formwork with nails to ensure rigidity. The length of the nails up to 120 millimeters allows for reliable fixation of the formwork for the armored belt. Carefully bend the protruding parts of the nails. For the reliability of the structure, guides to the capital elements of the building should be fixed.

Ensuring immobility. The dimensions of the guide elements, made of beams or boards, must correspond to the thickness of the wall. The shape is fixed to the boards using nails. The formwork for the armored belt must be rigid and not diverge when pouring concrete mortar.
Sealing of joints. We plug the end slots with a thick solution, which should not flow outward and remain inside the perimeter. You can also add polyurethane foam or film for sealing cracks.

Specifics of reinforcement

To install the reinforcement frame, you will need corrugated rods with a diameter of more than 12 mm, which are laid around the perimeter of the building. When laying reinforcement, its installation must be done on both sides: one row to the inside of the wall of the building, and the other to the outside. How to properly fix a reinforced frame? This requires welding, with the help of which the entire frame is thoroughly welded. This applies to all metal parts and joints. The corners of the belt that protrude should be folded around the entire perimeter.

After reinforcement, the structure will be surrounded by two solid steel rings. Partitions of buildings that do not bear the force load of the floor are reinforced traditional way. Be sure to install a wire mesh with a diameter of 8 mm with square or rectangular cells on top of the reinforcement. Attachment to the mesh reinforcement is carried out using binding wire. When fixing the grid around the perimeter of the building, gaps are not allowed. Provide minimum size vertically reinforced contour - 20 centimeters. The load-bearing frame elements are overlapped. This will ensure the solidity of the belt after concreting.

Concrete preparation

It is possible to use a mortar used for laying bricks, based on a sand-gravel mixture. For this purpose, river sand, large fractions of gravel, and also a small amount of crushed stone are used. For traditionally used 400 grade cement, mix one part cement with four parts sand and gravel mixture. We control the level of the poured mortar using a pre-tensioned construction thread.

Pouring concrete solution

The required strength can be ensured by following the following recommendations:

The formwork for the armored belt is concreted using technology in one step;
carry out work continuously;
It is advisable to pump the solution directly into a wooden form using a concrete pump;
pour concrete until it covers the reinforcement to a depth of 5 cm;
it is preferable to use concrete with a grade of at least M 200;
Air cavities that negatively affect strength are unacceptable. To eliminate this, use special vibrators;
the use of plasticizers improves the fluidity of the mixture, reduces the concentration of water, which shortens the hardening time of concrete;
the concrete mass must stand for 3 weeks;
during hot periods, moisten the surfaces generously with water to prevent cracks and strengthen the hardened mortar.

Final operations

The formwork frame should be dismantled a week after the concrete has settled. By this time it will reach strength characteristics. After hardening concrete screed immediately begin laying slabs for future flooring or installing a roof. Be sure to use roll waterproofing materials before installing the roof or installing floor slabs. In places where the roofing system is attached, holes for anchors are made, if necessary.

It is not advisable to save on building materials. If the reinforced belt is poured taking into account technological requirements, then the durability of the building and the strength of the structure are guaranteed. It’s not difficult to make an armored belt for the roof, following these recommendations! You can do it yourself!

Originally posted 2016-11-03 10:26:32.

pobetony.ru

Main types of unloading belts

Depending on the location of the armored belt, it can wear different names and take on certain functions:

Grillage - placed between the columnar or pile foundation of the house and the walls. However, they don’t build it out of brick - it’s too important a site.
The plinth is the second level of unloading and reinforcement, which is used in the construction of houses on a foundation made of concrete blocks. It provides the base with greater rigidity on moving soils and is also made of reinforced concrete. Although a fairly common option is brickwork, which serves as permanent formwork for subsequent pouring.
Unloading is an intermediate reinforced belt under the floor slabs, which not only takes on their weight, but also ensures the rigidity of the building above one floor at each level. When building from lightweight concrete blocks you cannot do without it, and here the best way is precisely the brick.
A support under the Mauerlat is a mandatory element of a house made of aerated concrete or other porous blocks that do not easily absorb point and multidirectional loads. In addition, fastening the timber itself with studs in such walls turns out to be unreliable even when using chemical anchoring. Here, the reinforced belt for walls made of aerated concrete turns into a kind of connection between the blocks with which it is connected with mortar, and the roof truss, reinforced through a mauerlat beam.

Features of laying on aerated concrete

As a rule, the brick belt is made 4-7 rows high and the width of the wall being strengthened. Reinforcement must be performed in each horizontal seam using a steel mesh with a cell size of 3-4 cm or rigid wire with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Installation is carried out in the same way as in the case of conventional brick walls:

with seams offset by 1/3 of the length;
with tie dressing in every third row.

If the reinforced belt for aerated concrete made of brick serves as a support for the mauerlat, you can immediately wall up vertical pins - metal threaded rods with a diameter of 12-16 mm - into the masonry. They are installed in increments of 1-1.5 m, and the depth of their embedding will depend on the thickness of the beam - it should be twice as long as the free end for attaching the Mauerlat. However, many builders advise immediately embedding cuttings to the entire height of the armored belt.

After the mortar has set, roofing felt or two layers of roofing felt are spread on the surface of the masonry. This is waterproofing that will protect the timber itself and the brick superstructure from the accumulation of condensing moisture. Next, the Mauerlat is outlined and drilled at the required points, threaded onto the stud releases and fixed on the reinforcement belt with nuts for wide washers.

Since ceramics have greater thermal conductivity than the main wall material, it turns into a kind of cold bridge (although monolithic reinforced concrete in this case behaves even worse). To avoid problems during the further operation of the building in winter, you can try to “close” the contour of the cellular blocks in parallel with laying the bricks. To do this, a thin GB partition is removed from the side of the premises, as if hiding the armored belt inside the aerated concrete wall. If a gap has formed between the surfaces, experts recommend additional thermal insulation.

Stages of constructing a belt under the ceiling

If the rigid contour under the roof plays the role of unloading and reliable support for the mauerlat beam, it is enough to lay it around the perimeter of the house box. However, the use of slabs for interfloor or attic floors will force the middle load-bearing wall to be covered with rows of bricks. Here, aerated concrete can also experience loads, so a rigid layer for its reinforcement is simply necessary.

No matter how light the floor slabs are, rest them directly on cellular or expanded clay concrete blocks it is forbidden. The masonry will be able to withstand their weight, but if the direction of the applied force changes, it will begin to collapse. In this case, the belt serves as a kind of buffer that distributes the pressure of the slab over the entire area of the walls, preventing the load-bearing structure from being pushed through. It is possible to refuse a thick layer of solid brick only when the ceiling is made of wood - here they make do with a backing for the beams in one or two blocks.

Otherwise, the armored belt is under hollow core slabs built according to all the rules. Main stages of work:

The first row is planted directly on aerated concrete using a solution. If the thickness of the main wall is standard (30 cm), laying is done in two bricks, filling the gaps with “checks”.
Installation of reinforcing mesh along the entire belt line.
Laying the second row according to the same pattern with subsequent reinforcement.
The third row of bricks is bonded. Here you need to focus on the inner plane of the wall. The gap remaining outside is filled with either quarters or pieces of mineral wool, if an insulated ventilated facade is being erected at the same time.

Under the top row of aerated concrete, on which the belt for the floor slabs is placed, reinforcement must be laid in the grooves. This will add rigidity to the entire structure and provide the walls with additional protection from cracks. Otherwise, once they appear, they will crawl lower.

According to the above diagram, the armored belt is laid out all the way required height, after which you can safely install floor slabs on it. Anchoring in progress in a standard way for brick walls - using L-shaped metal brackets. Fastening elements are covered with a layer of cement mortar to protect against corrosion.

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A monolithic belt is a reinforced reinforced concrete beam, which is made mainly under the ceiling of masonry walls.

2. If the building is being built on weak soils (for example, subsidence). Such soils tend to deform significantly after some time, due to soaking or other unfavorable factors - to shrink under the weight of the building. In this case, part of the house may sag, resulting in cracks in the walls and foundation. One of the measures that protects against the adverse effects of subsidence is the installation of a continuous monolithic belt under the floors. It serves as a screed for the house and, with minor precipitation, can prevent the formation of cracks. If you are going to build a house, first of all inspect the houses in the neighboring areas (preferably those that were built a long time ago). If there are inclined cracks in the walls, running from the ground up, from the roof down, or from the corners of the windows up, then this is the first sign that a monolithic belt in your house will not be superfluous.

3. If a house is being built in a seismic area (in Ukraine this is Crimea), the installation of monolithic belts is mandatory.

4. In multi-storey buildings, the standards also require the installation of monolithic belts.

How to make a monolithic belt - see the topic “Prefabricated floor or monolith” .

Main types of unloading belts

Depending on the location of the armored belt, it can have different names and take on certain functions:

Grillage - placed between the columnar or pile foundation of the house and the walls. However, they don’t build it out of brick - it’s too important a site.
The plinth is the second level of unloading and reinforcement, which is used in the construction of houses on a foundation made of concrete blocks. It provides the base with greater rigidity on moving soils and is also made of reinforced concrete. Although a fairly common option is brickwork, which serves as permanent formwork for subsequent pouring.
Unloading is an intermediate reinforced belt under the floor slabs, which not only takes on their weight, but also ensures the rigidity of the building above one floor at each level. When building from lightweight concrete blocks, you cannot do without it, and here the best way is brick.
A support under the Mauerlat is a mandatory element of a house made of aerated concrete or other porous blocks that do not easily absorb point and multidirectional loads. In addition, fastening the timber itself with studs in such walls turns out to be unreliable even when using chemical anchoring. Here, the reinforced belt for walls made of aerated concrete turns into a kind of connection between the blocks with which it is connected with mortar, and the roof truss, reinforced through a mauerlat beam.

Features of laying on aerated concrete

with seams offset by 1/3 of the length;
with tie dressing in every third row.

Stages of constructing a belt under the ceiling

No matter how light the floor slabs are, they cannot be supported directly on cellular or expanded clay concrete blocks. The masonry will be able to withstand their weight, but if the direction of the applied force changes, it will begin to collapse. In this case, the belt serves as a kind of buffer that distributes the pressure of the slab over the entire area of the walls, preventing the load-bearing structure from being pushed through. It is possible to refuse a thick layer of solid brick only when the ceiling is made of wood - here they make do with a backing for the beams in one or two blocks.

Otherwise, the reinforced belt for hollow slabs is built according to all the rules. Main stages of work:

The first row is planted directly on aerated concrete using a solution. If the thickness of the main wall is standard (30 cm), laying is done in two bricks, filling the gaps with “checks”.
Installation of reinforcing mesh along the entire belt line.
Laying the second row according to the same pattern with subsequent reinforcement.
The third row of bricks is bonded. Here you need to focus on the inner plane of the wall. The gap remaining outside is filled with either quarters or pieces of mineral wool, if an insulated ventilated facade is being erected at the same time.

Under the top row of aerated concrete, on which the belt for the floor slabs is placed, reinforcement must be laid in the grooves. This will add rigidity to the entire structure and provide the walls with additional protection from cracks. Otherwise, once they appear, they will crawl lower.

According to the above diagram, the armored belt is laid out to the entire required height, after which floor slabs can be safely mounted on it. Anchoring is carried out in the standard way for brick walls - using L-shaped metal brackets. Fastening elements are covered with a layer of cement mortar to protect against corrosion.

Armopoyas is a structural element of a building, installed at the level of the top of the walls, under the floor slabs. The purpose of the armored belt is to ensure the joint operation of building structures during uneven deformations of wall materials. Also, the reinforcing belt provides a reliable connection between the walls of the building. Ensuring such a connection is necessary, since brickwork is an anisotropic material (the same can be said about masonry made from aerated blocks, foam blocks, expanded clay blocks, etc.), which cannot work equally in compression and tension.

It is necessary to clearly distinguish between the concepts of reinforced belt (armoshov), reinforced brick belt, monolithic belt. Armoshov consists of reinforcing bars arranged in one row, protected by a layer of c. p. solution. The thickness of such an armored seam (armoured belt) usually reaches 30 mm. Such a structural element is laid on top of the walls, under the support of the floor slabs. This type of armored belt should be provided on the first and last floors of the building, as well as every five floors throughout the entire height of the building.

Reinforced brick belt is a structural inclusion in brickwork made of monolithic reinforced concrete. Characteristics reinforced brick belt is as follows: it is installed at the ends of the floor slabs and not over the entire width of the wall. Between the ends of the floor slabs and along the perimeter of the building, reinforcement cages are installed and concreted.

Monolithic reinforced concrete belt. This structural element in configuration and location resembles an armored belt (armoshov), but, unlike it, it is reinforced not with one row of reinforcing bars, but with several rows, usually two, and has a height of 15 cm or more. The functional advantage of a monolithic belt lies in the distribution of the load from the floor slabs on the walls of the building, i.e. load-bearing and non-load-bearing walls become loaded approximately equally and, due to this, give approximately equal load on the foundation, and also have a smaller difference in deformations under load than walls without a monolithic belt. It is very important to install a monolithic belt when building a house from aerated concrete blocks. IN low-rise construction a Mauerlat is installed on a monolithic belt rafter roof. Also, in addition to evenly distributing the load between different walls, the monolithic belt protects the walls from the effects of local compression under the supports of the floor slabs (crushing), this is very important when building a house from aerated concrete and wood concrete blocks.

A fairly common design solution is to use a monolithic belt as a lintel over a window or doorway. In this case, the monolithic belt is calculated as a beam on two supports (a conventional reinforced belt cannot work as a lintel). In the general case, the beam appears to be rigidly clamped at the ends, but the decisions made in the design scheme still need to be ensured structurally. If the opening is in the middle of an extended wall along which there is a monolithic belt, then design scheme a rigidly clamped beam will be ensured. However, if the opening is located too close to the edge of the wall and has a large width (approximately 10-15*H, where H is the height of the monolithic belt), then in this case it is worth calculating it as a simply supported beam. Of course, it is possible to rigidly fasten a monolithic belt in brickwork, but this will require a number of structural calculations and constructive measures during construction, so it is better to install it along its edges to strengthen the monolithic belt metal channels above the opening, which, by the way, will also serve as permanent formwork.

In the general case, the calculation of the armored belt is carried out under the action of loads from uneven settlements of the building. The reinforcement belt should prevent rotation of one part of the building relative to another or its parallel displacement during uneven precipitation.

When installing reinforcement and monolithic belts on brick walls, the question arises about the structure ventilation ducts, which will cross the armored belt through and through. Such solutions are very common in design practice, so that while maintaining the integrity of the working reinforcement (or part of the longitudinal rods) at the site of the ventilation duct, the operation of the reinforcement belt will not be disrupted.

autocad-prosto.ru

Main types of unloading belts

Depending on the location of the armored belt, it can have different names and take on certain functions:

Grillage - placed between the columnar or pile foundation of the house and the walls. However, they don’t build it out of brick - it’s too important a site.
The plinth is the second level of unloading and reinforcement, which is used in the construction of houses on a foundation made of concrete blocks. It provides the base with greater rigidity on moving soils and is also made of reinforced concrete. Although a fairly common option is brickwork, which serves as permanent formwork for subsequent pouring.
Unloading is an intermediate reinforced belt under the floor slabs, which not only takes on their weight, but also ensures the rigidity of the building above one floor at each level. When building from lightweight concrete blocks, you cannot do without it, and here the best way is brick.
A support under the Mauerlat is a mandatory element of a house made of aerated concrete or other porous blocks that do not easily absorb point and multidirectional loads. In addition, fastening the timber itself with studs in such walls turns out to be unreliable even when using chemical anchoring. Here, the reinforced belt for walls made of aerated concrete turns into a kind of connection between the blocks with which it is connected with mortar, and the roof truss, reinforced through a mauerlat beam.

Features of laying on aerated concrete

with seams offset by 1/3 of the length;
with tie dressing in every third row.

Stages of constructing a belt under the ceiling

Otherwise, the reinforced belt for hollow slabs is built according to all the rules. Main stages of work:

The first row is planted directly on aerated concrete using a solution. If the thickness of the main wall is standard (30 cm), laying is done in two bricks, filling the gaps with “checks”.
Installation of reinforcing mesh along the entire belt line.
Laying the second row according to the same pattern with subsequent reinforcement.
The third row of bricks is bonded. Here you need to focus on the inner plane of the wall. The gap remaining outside is filled with either quarters or pieces of mineral wool, if an insulated ventilated facade is being erected at the same time.

Under the top row of aerated concrete, on which the belt for the floor slabs is placed, reinforcement must be laid in the grooves. This will add rigidity to the entire structure and provide the walls with additional protection from cracks. Otherwise, once they appear, they will crawl lower.

stroitel-list.ru

Introduction

Aerated concrete is an excellent alternative brick. However, unfortunately, the strength indicator of aerated concrete blocks is much lower. The material does not hold fasteners on its surface well.

Masonry made of aerated concrete blocks has its own characteristics:

The construction of walls must be carried out on a reliable foundation.
During work, it is necessary to regularly check the evenness of the structure.
Along the entire perimeter of the building, the walls should be reinforced with a reinforced belt made of reinforced concrete.

When conducting construction work with violation technological rules Cracking of blocks may occur under the influence of roof pressure.

The meaning of the armored belt

A reinforced belt is a monolithic structure located around the entire perimeter of the building. The armored belt protects the walls of the house from destruction and deformation under the influence of loads. The technology for strengthening the wall surface of an object involves laying a load-bearing belt between the floors of each floor and in the place of roofing.

To ensure the functionality of the armored belt, its structure must be:

Continuous.
In a ring style.
Closed.

The main components of the armored belt:

Reinforcement frame.
Concrete mixture.
Formwork or blocks.

The purpose of the design is:

In distribution load bearing from additional floors or roofs to walls in order to give them strength.
To protect the foundation and walls from cracks.
To increase the spatial rigidity of the building.

The design ensures the strength and reliability of load-bearing walls, increases the resistance of the structure to wind, temperature changes, seismic vibrations, shrinkage of the soil and the construction site itself.

Dimensions of armored belt

The dimensions of the armored belt depend on the design feature building material to which it needs to be attached. The wall can be internal or external. For each category, builders consider their own specific requirements regarding the size of the structure.

The internal structure is reinforced with an armored belt with a width corresponding to the thickness of the wall.
When strengthening a house from the outside, the width of the protective belt should correspond to the width of the wall, excluding insulation and formwork.
The minimum height of the structure is one hundred and fifty millimeters. This indicator cannot be greater than the width of the wall.

Options for creating an armored belt

It is possible to install a unloading belt for walls made of aerated concrete blocks in several ways:

Using wooden formwork.
Using additional blocks.

When comparing these two methods, it can be noted that equipping walls with an armored belt using wooden formwork is technologically more difficult to implement. The second method, using additional blocks, is much simpler, but you will have to invest more money in it due to the use of expensive building material.

The unloading belt is not laid:

Under a solid reinforced concrete structure.
Under wooden floors, resting on blocks.

In the case of using wooden floors, it is enough to pour concrete platforms five centimeters thick under the beams, which play a supporting role and will reliably protect building blocks from pushing.

Creating an armored belt using formwork

The formwork for the unloading belt is wooden frame. It is made from scraps of boards fastened together along the outside.

After the formwork is completely assembled, its lower part is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, and the upper part with transverse board ties at intervals of eighty to one hundred centimeters. The screed is necessary to make the structure reliable, otherwise when pouring concrete, it may be deformed or crushed.

Before constructing the structure, you should first worry about purchasing the necessary building materials:

Edged boards with a minimum thickness of three centimeters and 40x40 timber for the manufacture of formwork.
Nails for fastening the plank structure to the wall.
Flexible wire to add rigidity to the structure.
Reinforcing bars with a diameter of twelve millimeters.
Expanded polystyrene for insulation.

Construction tools used:

Drill.
Hacksaw.

Formwork construction technology

The technological process involves performing work in several stages:

Preparation of wooden panels.
Laying a layer of polystyrene between the wall of the house and a wooden panel for insulation purposes.
Fastening the structure to the wall with self-tapping screws or long nails.
Additional fastening of wooden structure elements using self-tapping screws and wire.
Assembly of the reinforcement frame. First, you should lay the reinforcing pins inside the wooden panels. Flexible wire is used to connect the reinforcement to the frame. It is not recommended to fasten the reinforcement to each other by welding due to rusting of the material inside the concrete.
Pouring with cement mortar.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement is made from reinforcement rods with a diameter of eight to twelve millimeters.

The principle of the process is:

IN horizontal laying twigs
They are fastened with an overlap using flexible knitting wire along the entire perimeter of the wall.
In tying the joints with rings of wire with a diameter of six millimeters.

Knitting of reinforcing bars should be done directly in the formwork. IN finished form The reinforcement frame is heavy. If the structure is assembled separately, it will be difficult to lift and place it. It is recommended to lay a layer of stones or bricks between the aerated concrete blocks and the frame of the unloading belt.

1. Pouring concrete

When purchasing dry concrete mix, you must use a material marking of at least M200.

If there is no product of the required characteristics in the store, you can prepare it yourself, using the following proportions in the ratio of components:

Crushed stone - 4.8 parts.
Cement – 1 part.
Sand – 2.8 parts.

To increase the density of the composition, crushed stone can be replaced with gravel. After mixing the dry elements, add water in small portions, the amount of which should correspond to twenty percent of the total amount of the mixture.

The concrete pouring technology provides standards for the performance of work, which should be performed to obtain the desired functional result:

Pouring must be carried out in one cycle without interruption, avoiding partial drying of the concrete layer.
It is necessary to avoid bubbles with emptiness in the filling solution, which in the future, when the mixture dries, will reduce the strength characteristics of the structure.
After pouring, it is recommended to compact the concrete using a hammer drill with a special attachment. Also, to eliminate voids in the solution, a vibrating machine is used, and if it is absent, air bubbles will have to be removed by pinning the solution with reinforcement.

2. Construction of an unloading belt using blocks

The formwork can be not wooden structures, but U-shaped aerated concrete blocks. A mandatory condition for such a building material is the presence of an internal cavity, which is necessary for laying a frame of reinforcement and pouring concrete.

Tray-type blocks are laid the same width as the walls. It is convenient to install such a belt on external walls because it performs an additional insulating function, while eliminating the formation of cold “bridges”.

3. What you need

The method is simple and requires the prior purchase of building material - ten-centimeter-thick prefabricated blocks. Please make a calculation before purchasing required quantity material based on the planned height of the structure and the perimeter of the object.

The process of manufacturing an armored belt structure using additional blocks

Installation of additional blocks on the wall in the usual manner.
Reinforcement of the central part of the building material.
Pouring the resulting structure with cement mortar.

Brick armored belt

The loading belt can be constructed using reinforced brickwork reinforcement mesh. It is less reliable than concrete and is applicable only for small outbuildings. To increase the strength of a brick structure, it is recommended to use reinforcement or metal welded mesh.

Features of the structure:

When using reinforcing mesh with a cross-sectional diameter of five millimeters, it is recommended to lay it through four rows of bricks.
The width of the structure must correspond to the thickness of the wall of the building being processed.
The height of the structure depends on the type of building material of the walls of the house and on the type of roof. The average construction size for a wall made of aerated concrete blocks is forty centimeters.

Strengthening walls using bricks with built-in reinforcing mesh cannot fully replace imparting reliability to structural elements using a reinforced concrete analogue.

The most important feature of aerated concrete is its low thermal conductivity, which ensures that a structure built from it does not freeze, even at the lowest ambient temperature. Therefore, when constructing a reinforcing structure, it is important that it does not violate the thermal insulation properties of the house.

During the cold season, as well as during periods of sudden temperature changes, condensation may occur on the reinforced belt. In order to avoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to carry out work on insulating the structure.

Expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam and mineral wool can be used as insulating heat-insulating elements. In some cases, aerated concrete blocks with partitions are used. When using mineral wool, a small ventilation gap should be left between the insulation and the facing surface.

Tips for organizational work on insulating a facility:

When constructing a structure for the purpose of its subsequent insulation, it should be done with an indentation from the outer edge of the wall, and not along its entire width.
The minimum width of the unloading belt should be twenty centimeters when used monolithic concrete and twenty-five centimeters in the case of using brick.
The resulting free space after filling the armored belt should be filled with insulation and covered with a foam block, previously cut to the required dimensions.

When pouring the cement composition, you should ensure that the elements of the reinforced mesh do not touch the walls of the formwork.
To increase the functionality of the armored belt, a frame made of reinforcement is installed on the surface using a level.
The strength of concrete after it is poured is facilitated by periodic moistening, especially in hot weather. It is recommended to moisten the structure every day for five days. The best effect is achieved by covering the moistened surface with plastic film.
The formwork can be removed after a week, but it will function as intended only after two weeks, when the cement mixture has completely hardened.
If you plan to insulate the unloading belt, then you should not make it flush with the wall. Experts recommend shifting the formwork inward with the further purpose of filling the resulting niche with insulating, heat-insulating material.
There is no need to spend money on a reinforced belt if there is strong soil not saturated with water under the foundation, brick walls, and also when constructing one-story house With wooden beams, and not reinforced concrete panels.

orcmaster.com

Formwork for armored belt. Types and methods of device

Armopoyas is a monolithic reinforced concrete structure. The belt has a circular outline, fits on the walls, and has no breaks (gaps) in its body. The solution to the question: how to properly make an armored belt begins with the installation of formwork. The most accessible formwork material is board. The formwork for the armored belt is made either from separate boards or from ready-made wooden panels connected to each other from the outside with wooden scraps. The bottom of the boards is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. On top, the opposite walls of the formwork are connected with wooden ties (on nails). The spacing of the ties is 80 cm, but not more than 100 cm.

Do-it-yourself armored belt

When making an armored belt with your own hands, you can use another option for creating it, in which the formwork is not wooden structures, but U-shaped blocks of aerated concrete. Trough blocks are laid the same width as the wall, and have a cavity inside for laying connected reinforcement frame and concrete. It is especially advantageous to install a belt with such “formwork” on external walls, because the side walls of the U-shaped blocks act as insulation and eliminate the formation of cold “bridges.” The disadvantage of tray blocks is their high price.

Height of armored belt

In cottages where it is planned to create light floors, it is allowed to install a flat frame in the belt. The ladder frame is prepared directly on the wall, directly in the formwork. It consists of 2 rods (for a wide wall 3 rods) of a periodic profile (calculated diameter), connected to each other by transverse rods. The spacing of the rods is 50 cm. The reinforced belt under the floor slabs carries higher loads. Therefore, the frame is made three-dimensional from 4 or 6 longitudinal reinforcing bars and tied with transverse wire clamps.

Armopoyas for aerated concrete

When installing a roof truss structure, its bottom row, the Mauerlat, is attached to the load-bearing wall with special anchors and studs. The rafter system itself creates a bursting load, which can lead to deformation of the walls. The armored belt under the roof ensures the strength of the wall and the stable rigidity of the roofing system. It will be performed similarly to the procedure for installing a monolithic belt under the ceiling. The armored belt under the Mauerlat serves both to distribute the load over the entire surface of the wall and to insert fasteners for the Mauerlat itself.

How to fill an armored belt

Reinforced belt for aerated concrete made of bricks

In practice, as an option for strengthening wall structures, an armored belt for aerated concrete is sometimes made from brick. It is a conventional solid brick masonry reinforced with reinforcement. Reinforcement is carried out with masonry mesh made of wire: 4-5 mm through each row of masonry in height. The solution is cement-sand in a ratio of 1:4. The height of the brick belt is taken from 20 cm to 40 cm. The width of the belt can correspond to the width of the wall, but perhaps narrower. Of course, an armored belt made of brick cannot be called equivalent in strength characteristics to a reinforced concrete belt. However, it is reliable when building houses in areas with low seismic activity or for the construction of auxiliary facilities and outbuildings.

To prevent the reinforced belt from becoming a “bridge” of cold and to avoid the formation of condensation on it, it is necessary to insulate the armored belt. Therefore, a monolithic or brick belt, most often, is not made to cover the entire width of the wall, but with an indentation from its outer edge. It is important to maintain a minimum width of the reinforced belt, equal to 20 cm for concrete and 25 cm for brick. The resulting longitudinal niches are filled with heat-insulating material, which are partition aerated concrete blocks laid on spoons (10 cm), polystyrene foam slabs and other materials.

of-stroy.ru

How necessary is an armored belt?

Most often, a monolithic belt is a construction necessity, but in some cases such structural strengthening is not required.

You can do without an armored belt if:

the foundation is poured below the soil freezing level;
The walls of the house themselves are made of brick.

But even if these conditions are met, it is necessary that the floor slab extends onto both sides of the wall by at least 12 cm, and that the building itself is located in a seismically safe area.

An armored belt is necessary if:

The house is multi-storey. In this case, the presence of monolithic belts is prescribed by regulations;
The walls are built from porous materials, such as cinder blocks or aerated concrete. Under uneven pressure from the floor slab, these materials begin to crumple and quickly collapse;
The building is being built on soft soil. In this case, there is a danger of subsidence of the house and, as a result, the formation of cracks in the walls. The monolithic belt will act as a screed and prevent cracks from occurring. Inspect old buildings in neighboring areas. If they are covered with cracks running down from the roof and up from the ground and the corners of the windows, then the construction of a reinforced belt is clearly necessary;
The foundation of the building is made of prefabricated blocks or shallowly buried. The reinforced belt will evenly distribute the pressure of the slabs along the entire perimeter of the foundation;
The house is located in a seismically active zone.

How to build a reinforced belt?

A monolithic belt is a structurally simple element. A formwork is built along the perimeter of the wall, into which metal reinforcement is mounted. Then the structure is poured with concrete and insulated.

To construct a monolithic armored belt, the following materials are required:

Plywood/boards;
Quick installation;
Self-tapping screws;
Nails;
Ribbed metal rods;
Bricks/stones;
Concrete/sand, cement, crushed stone;
Cellophane film;
Insulation (foam);
Knitting wire.

And tools:

Welding machine;
Screwdriver;
Hammer;
Concrete mixer;
Building level;
Hammer.

First stage: erection of formwork

Most often, the formwork is assembled on the basis that the armored belt will be approximately 15-30 cm in height, and the width will either be narrower than the wall or the same size as it. In the second case, the formwork moves deeper into the wall, which makes it possible to subsequently fill the resulting gap with insulation.

The optimal materials for formwork are plywood, OSB boards, and boards. The formwork must be mounted so that its upper part is in a perfectly horizontal plane. This can be achieved by adjusting the installation using a building level.

There are several ways to install formwork:

Fastening using electric welding. In this case, the anchors are passed through the formwork walls, and the plugs are welded;
Fastening with quick installation. This method is much faster and easier to perform, but it requires some preliminary preparation. Installation practically does not adhere to materials such as aerated concrete or cinder block. If the main part of the building is built from similar materials, then the last rows under the proposed belt must be laid out of brick.

Holes are drilled through the board attached to the wall at a distance of 700 mm from each other. The fungus is inserted into the holes and secured with a screw. For quick installation, it is better to take 6x100 mm and a 6 mm drill. When removing the drill from the resulting hole, you need to swing it a little in different directions. The hole will increase slightly and the wood fibers will not interfere with the installation of the fungus.

We fix self-tapping screws at a distance of 1 m on the upper edge of the board, and nails are driven into the facing brickwork in the same way. Self-tapping screws are tightened in pairs with nails using tying wire.

Second stage: production of fittings

For the manufacture of the reinforcement frame, it is necessary to use only ribbed rods. The concrete solution is attached to the uneven surface of the ribs and thereby provides greater bearing capacity and tensile strength.

The rods should be 12 mm in diameter and 6 m long. For transverse fastening, rods with a diameter of 10 mm are required. The transverse frame must be welded along the edges and in the central part; the remaining transverse rods are not welded, but tied with wire. In the process of assembling the frame, it is necessary to reduce welding work to a minimum. The fact is that the welded seam becomes less durable due to overheating, and when constructing a reinforced belt, this is unacceptable. Most of the parts should be assembled using tying wire.

The wire can be taken of the smallest thickness; its function is to maintain the integrity of the frame shape while pouring concrete. Using thick wire will not make the frame stronger, and installing such a structure will require much more money and effort.

When the two parts of the frame are ready, they are stacked, forming a small space between them. Then they are welded in the center and along the edges, forming a finished frame, which in cross-section has the shape of a square or rectangle. It is best to do this directly in the formwork, since the resulting part has quite a lot of weight.

There must be a distance of at least 5 cm between the reinforcement and each side of the structure. To raise the reinforcement above the horizontal surface, bricks or stones are placed under the frame.

When assembling parts into a solid reinforced belt, there is no need to use welding; you can simply make an overlap of 0.2 - 0.3 m between adjacent frame parts. The structure must lie level inside the formwork; to achieve this condition, it is necessary to use a building level.

Third stage: pouring concrete

Concrete for pouring a monolithic belt must be strong, since the weight of the floor slabs will rest on it. If ready-made concrete is used, it must be grade 200 or higher.

If you prepare the mixture yourself, then you need to carefully follow the technology and it is advisable to use a concrete mixer. Take 1 part cement, 3 parts sand and 5 parts crushed stone. The resulting mixture must be mixed well and, gradually adding water, brought to the required consistency.

Under no circumstances should concrete be poured in multiple layers. If it is not possible to fill the entire belt at once, it is necessary to make temporary vertical bridges from aerated concrete or boards. Before pouring the next portion of concrete, the lintel must be removed and the joint must be well watered.

When pouring a monolithic belt, it is necessary to constantly check building level horizontality of the resulting structure and eliminate differences as much as possible. In the future, it will be much easier to install floor slabs on a carefully leveled surface.

When the concrete has already been poured, it is necessary to pierce it using a special tool or just a piece of reinforcement. These simple steps will release air from the concrete and prevent the appearance of possible voids.

Poured concrete must be given the conditions to harden and gain strength. To do this, it is covered with a film so that the moisture does not evaporate too quickly, and in hot weather it is pre-watered.

The formwork can be removed after about 3 days - the period depends on weather conditions. This is done using a crowbar or nail puller.

Stage four: insulation

The monolithic belt, having become part of the wall, plays the role of a heat conductor, and if measures are not taken to insulate it, “cold bridges” may arise. Before finishing work, insulation must be placed in the recesses left after removing the formwork. Wonderful Styrofoam will do the right size.

A monolithic reinforced belt will protect the house from destruction caused by many external reasons. This element of the building frame is not difficult to calculate and install; it can be done by anyone who has encountered construction at least once. When making a reinforced belt, you cannot skimp on materials. High-quality and correctly made, it will justify its cost. In many cases, a strong armored belt is the key to the strength and durability of the entire building.

1popotolku.ru

Armobelt for the walls of a house made of aerated concrete

Often inexperienced, novice builders do not even know why they should pour on the walls of a one-story house reinforced concrete belt. And the need for its device lies in the following reasons:

Armored belt sizes

Monolithic is poured around the perimeter of the entire building, and its dimensions are tied to the width of the external and internal walls.

The height can be filled according to upper level aerated block or lower, but it is not recommended to raise it above 300 mm - it will be easy unjustified waste of material and increasing the load on the walls of the house.

The width of the armored belt for aerated concrete is made according to the width of the wall, but it may be a little narrower.

Concrete belt reinforcement

For reinforcement, metal or fiberglass reinforcement is used. Usually its cross-section does not exceed 12 mm. Most often, the reinforcement cage consists of four long rods that laid along the wall of the house. From these, using brackets from reinforcement of a smaller cross-section, a square or rectangular frame is formed. Long reinforcing bars, every 300 - 600 mm, are attached to the brackets with tying wire. It is not recommended to use welding to connect them in the frame because the metal at the point of penetration is weakened, and at the same time, corrosion may occur at this point.

The frame should not be allowed to come into contact with aerated concrete blocks. To do this, special plastic pads with a height of about 30 mm are placed under it. As a last resort, you can place separate pebbles of crushed stone.

Attention. To properly make a frame for a reinforced belt, it is recommended to use reinforcement only with a ribbed surface, which ensures rigid adhesion to concrete.

When can you do without an armored belt?

Pouring a reinforced belt to strengthen walls does not always make sense. Therefore, in order not to spend extra capital on purchasing materials, you should know in what cases you can do without a reinforced concrete belt:

The foundation is located on solid rock.
The walls of the house are built of brick.

It is also not necessary to pour a concrete belt over aerated concrete blocks if a wooden floor will rest on them. To unload the floor, under the load-bearing floor beams, it will be enough to pour small support beams with concrete concrete platforms about 60 mm thick.

In other cases, when construction is carried out on peat bogs, clay, and other weak soils, it is necessary to make an armored belt. It is especially impossible to do without it when constructing walls made of aerated concrete, expanded clay and other large-cell blocks, which are fragile materials.

Gas blocks are practically incapable carry point loads and become covered with cracks at the slightest subsidence of the foundation or when the soil moves.

How to fill an armored belt with concrete correctly

When filling, the following rules must be observed:

Concrete placement must be completed in one continuous duty cycle. For a high-quality reinforced concrete belt, partially dried layers of concrete mass are unacceptable.
Air bubbles should not be allowed to remain in the concrete mass, which form pores and thereby reduce the strength of hardened concrete.

To prevent this from happening, freshly poured concrete must be compacted using an internal vibrator or a special attachment using a hammer drill. In extreme cases, it can be compacted with a tamper or a metal pin.

Types of belts and their functions

Reinforced concrete belts are poured to strengthen structures such as:

Sometimes when constructing small outbuildings it is used reinforced brick belt on aerated concrete walls. To do this, 4 or 5 rows are laid out on the walls, across its entire width. building bricks. Between the rows, in an armored belt made of bricks on walls made of aerated concrete, during the work process, a metal mesh welded from wire 4 - 5 mm thick with cells of 30 - 40 mm is laid on the mortar. Floor beams or a wooden Mauerlat can be placed on top to secure the roof.

Reinforced armored belt on aerated concrete

For a reinforced belt, which is poured over aerated concrete blocks, it is used concrete mortar grade M 200. Load-bearing reinforcement with a cross-section of 12 mm is fastened in a frame with transverse square or rectangular clamps using knitting wire. Clamps are made from smooth reinforcement with a diameter of no more than 4-6 mm. The supporting reinforcement is overlapped with each other with an overlap of at least 150 mm and tied together with soft knitting wire.

The belt can be made without a three-dimensional frame of 4 reinforcing bars. Sometimes a flat frame of two rods is sufficient, which is assembled in almost the same way as a volumetric one. Only in this case, for transverse ligation, not clamps are used, but individual reinforcing bars.

The connected frame can be laid in wooden formwork, which is made from boards. You can also use aerated concrete blocks of the top row as formwork. But first you need to cut out the inside of them so that the block becomes something like a box without end walls. The blocks are stacked with the resulting shelves up, after which the frame is laid in them.

When laying the frame, you need to make sure that there is a small space of about 20 - 30 mm between the reinforcement and the formwork walls, as well as the lower blocks.

After bookmarking in reinforcement cage formwork, you can additionally make and attach to it the necessary embedded parts that will be needed to secure the Mauerlat or other elements from the house structure.

Separate reinforced belt under monolithic slab no overlap is done. The slab itself distributes almost all vertical loads evenly onto the walls, and at the same time it is the main stiffening rib for the house and connects almost all the walls of the building with each other, combining them into one spatial structure.

It would be ideal if it takes up the entire width of the wall. But this is usually done if on the facade side insulation will be installed, blocking the cold bridge that can form through concrete. But in the case where only plaster finishing is expected on the outside, its thickness will need to be reduced within 40 - 50 mm to lay foam plastic or other insulation.

To insulate the belt, you can also use thin (100 mm) partition blocks, which are installed and temporarily secured along the edge of the wall. A frame is laid between them and everything is filled with concrete. In this case, the partition blocks play the role of formwork and at the same time insulation.

Reinforced belt for wooden Mauerlat

Since aerated concrete blocks have a fragile porous structure, it will not be possible to firmly attach them to rafter system roofs of the house. Under the influence of wind, the fastenings will simply become loose over time and the roof may become deformed. And with a strong gusty wind, it can simply be blown away.

In addition, when the roof is loosened, when its fasteners are weakened, the upper rows of block masonry will also collapse over time. Therefore, a reinforced concrete belt is simply necessary for a strong connection between the roof and walls made of aerated concrete blocks.

The reinforced belt for mounting the Mauerlat can be smaller in width than its counterparts for the ceiling and foundation, since the vertical load on it is minimal. Therefore, to reinforce it, often to save money, a frame with two reinforcing bars is used.

To securely fasten the Mauerlat in the belt, even before pouring it, vertical anchors are installed bolts with external thread , which together with the frame are filled with concrete. In this case, the thread rises above the concrete by approximately 200 - 250 mm.

To firmly fix the Mauerlat, they drill into it through holes, through which it is put on the anchors, after which it is firmly pressed to the concrete with nuts.

Eventually— a properly made reinforced concrete belt can provide a house built from aerated concrete blocks with high strength and durable operation. At the same time, it will be able to protect walls from deformation and cracks, maintain the strength of the roof and extend the service life of the house by 3-4 times.

Brick armored belt for walls: features + Photo. Why do you need an armored belt? Reinforced belt is a design monolithic type, which is located along the entire perimeter of the building.

In order to provide a functional armored belt, its structure must meet the following characteristics:

The main components of an armored belt are a concrete mixture, a frame made of reinforcement and blocks (or formwork). The purpose of the design is:

Protect the walls and base of the building from.
Distributing the load from the roof and additional floors onto the walls, giving them strength.
Increasing the rigidity of the building.

This design helps ensure the reliability and strength of the load-bearing wall, as well as increase the building’s resistance to wind, seismic vibrations, temperature changes, shrinkage of the earth and the building itself.

Dimensions

The dimensions of the brick armored belt will depend on the design features of the material to which the fastening will be made. Walls can be external and internal.

The internal structure must be reinforced with an armored belt, which has width values that correspond to the thickness.
If we are talking about strengthening the house from the outside, the width of the belt must correspond to the width of the wall without taking into account the formwork and insulation.
The minimum height of the structure must be 15 cm, and this figure cannot be greater than the width of the wall.

Manufacturing options

It is quite possible to install an armored belt for walls that are built of aerated concrete, and there are several ways to do this:

When using wooden.
When using additional blocks.

If we compare both of these methods, it should be noted that equipping walls with an armored belt with a wooden one is more difficult to implement from a technological point of view. The second method, in which it is proposed to use additional blocks, is much simpler, but then you will have to invest more money, since you will use expensive building material.

The unloading belt is not laid if:

If you use wooden floors, it will be enough to pour 5 cm thick concrete pads under the beams, which will play a supporting role in order to reliably protect the building blocks from being squeezed. IN reinforced concrete structures there is simply no point in making additional protection, since the existing load will already be evenly distributed.

Creation using formwork

The formwork for the armored belt is a frame made of wooden components. It is made from scraps of boards that are fastened together along the outside. When the formwork is completely assembled, the lower part is secured with self-tapping screws to the wall, and the upper part with transverse board ties at intervals of 1.8 to 2 meters. The screed is required in order to give reliability to the structure, otherwise it may be crushed or deformed when pouring concrete.

Tools and materials

Before starting the construction of the structure, try to take care of purchasing all the required building materials:

Edged boards, minimum permissible thickness 3 cm and wooden beam 40*40 in order to make formwork.
Nails to attach the plank structure to the wall.
Flexible wire to make the structure rigid.
Reinforcement rods, the diameter of which should be 1.2 cm.
Use as insulation material.

Before starting work on making an armored belt from brick onto aerated concrete, we advise you to draw a diagram of the future structure and indicate the planned dimensions. Based on the drawing, you can calculate the amount of building materials that may be required. From construction tools in this case you will need a hacksaw and.

Construction technology

The process involves performing work in several steps:

Prepare wooden shields.
Lay a layer of polystyrene between the wooden board and the wall of the house for insulation.
Attach the structure to the wall using long nails or self-tapping screws.
Perform additional fastening of the wooden structure using wire and self-tapping screws.
Assemble the reinforcement cage. First you need to lay the reinforcing pins inside the wooden panel. To connect the reinforcement into the frame, use flexible wire. We do not recommend fastening the reinforcement by welding, as the material may begin to rust inside the concrete.
Filling with cement mortar.

As you can see, just 6 steps and the armored belt is ready.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement is made from reinforcing bars with a diameter of 0.8 to 1.2 cm. The process is as follows:

The knitting of reinforcing bars must be done on the machine itself. The finished frame made of reinforcement is quite heavy. When assembling the structure separately, it will be difficult to lift it, much less place it. We recommend laying a layer of brick or stone between the frame and the aerated concrete blocks of the reinforced belt.

Pouring concrete

When purchasing dry concrete mix, pay attention to the marking, as it should be no lower than M200.

If the store does not have such products, you can make it yourself at home if you buy other components and mix them in the correct proportion:

Crushed stone - 2.4 measures.
– 0.5 measures.
Sand – 1.4 measures.

To make the density of the composition higher, you can replace crushed stone with gravel. After the dry elements are mixed, you should start adding a little water in portions, and its amount should be 20% of the total mass of the mixture.

In concrete pouring technology, there are certain standards of work that should be performed in order to obtain the desired functional result:

Pouring should be done in one cycle and should not be interrupted under any circumstances, and the concrete layer should not be allowed to partially dry out.
Also try to avoid any voids or bubbles in the grouting solution, as they may reduce the strength characteristics of the structure in the future.
After pouring, we recommend compacting the concrete using a hammer drill with a special attachment. In order to eliminate voids in the solution, they use a special vibrating machine, and if it is not available, you will have to remove all air bubbles by pinching the solution using.

Creating an unloading belt from blocks

Not only wooden structures, but also U-shaped aerated concrete blocks can be used as formwork. But in this case, there is a mandatory condition for the building material, namely the presence of an internal cavity, which will be required for laying the reinforcement frame and pouring concrete. The tray type blocks should be laid the same width as the walls. Such a belt will be conveniently placed on external walls due to the fact that they additional function insulation, thus eliminating all cold bridges.

Materials and accessories

Since the method is quite simple, to create an armored belt made of bricks for walls and its reinforcement, you only need to buy building materials - additional blocks with a thickness of 10 cm. Before you buy the material, you should calculate the required amount of material according to the planned height of the structure and perimeter object.

Manufacturing process using additional blocks:

Installation of additional elements on the wall as usual.
Reinforcement of the central part of the building material.
Pouring solutions.

Brick armored belt

The unloading belt can be made using brickwork, which will be reinforced with reinforcing mesh. It is slightly worse than concrete and can only be used for small outbuildings. In order to increase the strength of a brick structure, it is recommended to use metal welded mesh or reinforcement.

Features of the structure are:

When working with reinforcing mesh, the cross-sectional diameter of which is 0.5 cm, it should be laid through 4 rows of bricks.
The width of the structure must be equal to the thickness of the walls that have been processed.
The height of the structure will depend on the type of building material of the walls of the house and the type of roof. According to the average size of structures for walls made of aerated concrete blocks, the figure is 0.4 meters.

Strengthening walls using bricks with reinforcing mesh cannot replace fully imparting reliability to structural elements using a reinforced concrete analogue.

Insulation

Most important feature aerated concrete is that it has low thermal conductivity, which will ensure the absence of freezing factor for the built structure even at the most low temperatures environment. For this reason, when constructing a reinforcing structure, it is important that they do not in any way violate the thermal insulation properties of the house. In winter, as well as during periods when constant sharp changes in temperature are not uncommon, condensation may appear on the brick armored belt. To avoid this, we recommend carrying out insulation work.

Foam plastic and mineral wool (mats) can be used as elements to create thermal insulation. In some cases, you can use aerated concrete blocks that have partitions. When using mineral wool, small ventilation gaps should be left between the facing surface and the insulation.

Advice on organizational issues of insulating a facility

When creating a structure and planning its further insulation, work should be done with an indentation from the outer edge of the wall, and not just along its width.
The minimum width of the reinforcing belt should be 20 cm when using monolithic concrete and 25 cm when using bricks.
The resulting free space after filling the unloading belt should be filled with insulation and covered, which should be cut in advance to the required dimensions.

When pouring cement mortar, care should be taken to ensure that the elements of the reinforced mesh do not touch the walls of the formwork.
To increase the functionality of the unloading frame made of reinforcement, install it on the surface using a building level.
To ensure the strength of concrete, keep it moist after pouring, especially in hot weather. We recommend moisturizing the structure daily for five years. The best effect will be when the surface after watering is covered with plastic film.
After a week you can remove the formwork, but it will function as intended only after 14 days, when cement mixture will freeze completely.
If you plan to insulate a reinforced belt, then do not do it flush. Builders recommend moving the formwork deeper and then filling the niche with heat-insulating insulating material.
There is no need to spend money on a reinforced belt if the foundation of the building has soil that is strong and not saturated with water, and the walls are made of brick. The same applies when constructing one-story houses with wooden beams, and not with panels from

Installation of a monolithic belt on brickwork. Is it possible to make an armored belt from brick - Armopoles or brickwork, which is better?

Main functions of the armored belt

Types of reinforced belts

Grillage.

Base armored belt

Interfloor (unloading) belt

Armobelt under the Mauerlat

Is it worth making an armored belt out of brick?

Comments

Do-it-yourself armored belt

Height of armored belt

Armopoyas for aerated concrete

How to fill an armored belt

Reinforced belt for aerated concrete made of bricks

Insulation of armored belt

The feasibility of constructing a reinforced belt

What is the support frame for?

Functional purpose

Features of preparatory activities

Sequence of preparatory operations

Specifics of reinforcement

Concrete preparation

Pouring concrete solution

Final operations

Main types of unloading belts

Stages of constructing a belt under the ceiling

Main types of unloading belts

Stages of constructing a belt under the ceiling

Main types of unloading belts

Stages of constructing a belt under the ceiling

Introduction

The meaning of the armored belt

Dimensions of armored belt

Options for creating an armored belt

Creating an armored belt using formwork

Formwork construction technology

Reinforcement

1. Pouring concrete

2. Construction of an unloading belt using blocks

3. What you need

The process of manufacturing an armored belt structure using additional blocks

Brick armored belt

Formwork for armored belt. Types and methods of device

Do-it-yourself armored belt

Height of armored belt

Armopoyas for aerated concrete

How to fill an armored belt

Reinforced belt for aerated concrete made of bricks

How necessary is an armored belt?

How to build a reinforced belt?

First stage: erection of formwork

Second stage: production of fittings

Third stage: pouring concrete

Stage four: insulation

Armobelt for the walls of a house made of aerated concrete

Armored belt sizes

Concrete belt reinforcement

When can you do without an armored belt?

How to fill an armored belt with concrete correctly

Types of belts and their functions

Reinforced armored belt on aerated concrete

Dimensions

Manufacturing options

Creation using formwork

Tools and materials

Construction technology

Reinforcement

Pouring concrete

Creating an unloading belt from blocks

Materials and accessories

Brick armored belt

Insulation

Advice on organizational issues of insulating a facility