Insulation of an aerated concrete house from the outside with polystyrene foam. Is it possible to insulate aerated concrete with foam plastic?

Cladding the walls of residential buildings with insulating materials is an event that receives special attention at the design stage. It doesn’t matter what materials you use to build the facility, but experienced builders advise insulating not only the roof and floors, but also load-bearing walls. This will help conserve thermal energy and avoid the appearance of fungus. To solve this problem, there is a sufficient amount of materials suitable for these purposes. Let's try to figure out what is the best way to insulate a house made of aerated concrete.

Why do you need to insulate?

Many builders prefer gas silicate blocks for certain reasons. First of all, construction work from such material does not require special skills. The blocks are large and light, they can be connected without problems using a special adhesive mass. Objects do not need a strong foundation, and insulating the walls of a house with aerated concrete from the outside will reduce the cost of the project.

The blocks belong to the group of cellular concrete. If we compare aerated concrete with the production of slag concrete blocks, the technological process is different. In two words, a foam former – aluminum powder – is added to the mixture of cement and lime. Hydrogen is released, leaving a huge amount of voids in the block.

From the very beginning, porous blocks are characterized by weak strength to mechanical influences. To increase it, the final production stage takes place in an autoclave unit, where the blocks are subjected to significant pressure and high temperature. As a result, the material turns out to be quite durable.

From physics lessons we know that air is considered one of the best materials that can insulate heat. And the thermal conductivity index will depend on the number of pores in the block.

But there is one problem - the porous cells in the gas silicate material are open, which makes the block vapor-permeable and allows it to absorb moisture. For this reason, the answer to the question - is it necessary to insulate an aerated concrete house - will be unequivocal - it is necessary.

Another thing is what protective layer create, and is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete 300, or is it enough to veneer it? finishing materials?

It is no secret that the thickness of load-bearing walls, no matter what materials they are made from, will be fully determined by the average annual temperature conditions your region. As it follows from this, the average thickness of aerated concrete walls can be 30–50 cm. But almost no one is interested in the fact that in this case experts are referring to the load-bearing characteristics of the blocks. Simply put, the walls will be strong.

And, for example, questions about whether it is necessary to insulate a house from aerated concrete 400 and other grades are often kept silent.

In terms of thermal conductivity, in some regions of Russia only aerated concrete walls start from 700 mm in thickness.

Anyone who is planning construction in these regions and is thinking whether there is a need to carry out external insulation of a house made of aerated concrete if its walls are 30 cm thick, or whether it is possible to simply install a plaster layer, you need to take into account that if you insulate the facade of a house made of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam or mineralized wool, then insulation slabs ten centimeters thick will equivalently replace 300 mm thick walls made of aerated concrete material.

It turns out that half-meter walls should have a thermal insulation layer of at least 10 mm. And for walls made of aerated concrete grade d 500 with a thickness of 400 mm or less, more massive thermal insulation will be required.

In addition to the thermal conductivity indicator, there is another important feature - the concept of “dew point”. This term describes a place inside the external walls that has zero temperature. This is where it will accumulate maximum amount condensate

It should be recalled that aerated concrete blocks They differ in their porous structure, and if the dew point falls on the block itself, then due to temperature fluctuations the moisture will freeze and thaw, destroying the material.

There is only one way out in this situation - try to move the point to the insulating layer. It will be less susceptible to destruction, and if it deteriorates, you can replace it faster than rebuilding walls. By the way, this explains the need to insulate external walls.

Insulation materials

The most common methods used to insulate walls made of thermally insulating aerated concrete are:

Features of insulation with various materials

Layer arrangement options from insulation material a lot of. Manufacturers offer a large selection of products needed for this at affordable prices. Let's look at the most popular options:

Expanded polystyrene

One of the economical options, used only outside the facility. There are two types - foam plastic and penoplex.

Foam plastic

The cost of the material is low, so it is preferred by developers seeking to save budget.

It should be taken into account that it does not allow steam to pass through. For this reason, when installing an insulating layer, it is recommended to provide a ventilation system.

The material is fixed on pre-cleaned walls with an adhesive composition applied with a notched spatula. Additionally, plastic dowels are used. When gluing foam sheets, their slight displacement is allowed. The surface can be plastered and painted after the adhesive solution has completely dried.

Penoplex

With its characteristics, the material resembles foam plastic and is used for outdoor work. Before installation, the wall surface is cleaned of gaps, chips, protrusions and cracks using plaster mortar. This gives the wall surface evenness and additional protection from the penetration of cold air currents.

When the plaster solution has dried, the wall is treated with a primer compound to improve the adhesion of the penoplex insulation to the aerated concrete blocks. When constructing an insulating layer, use adhesive composition cement based and disc dowels. The final stage is finishing the facade walls with plaster solutions or siding panels.

Minvata

The material has good strength and vapor permeability, and goes well with aerated concrete walls.

The use of such material provides comfort and a moderate level of humidity in the room.

The insulating layer will last for at least seventy years. The material is secured with plastic dowels and glue, which secures a mesh of fiberglass material. It will ensure the integrity of the plaster layer and paint applied on top. Some people prefer to insulate the walls outside with mineral wool under the siding.

Many people prefer stone wool

And yet, what is the best way to insulate aerated concrete? Today's market is able to offer any materials for finishing and insulation. You just need to remember that not all insulation materials can work effectively on aerated concrete blocks.

Basic principle of creation multilayer construction– strengthening the vapor permeability of the next layer, starting from the inner surface of the walls. Be that as it may, steam is one of the waste products, and part of it is removed outside through the walls. Among all the materials used as insulation for aerated concrete houses, many experts choose stone wool.

Two types of facade are very popular - “wet”, which has a thin layer of plaster, and a suspended ventilated system. In the first option, steam is released through the walls into the insulating layer, then passes into the plaster. In another case, the steam is drawn out through the ventilation gaps, which are arranged between the insulating layer and the facing material.

More durable slabs are used under the plaster layer, and for ventilated facades, preference is given to lightweight mineral wool with low level compressibility.

A thin layer of plaster can be applied to all substrates, and in a ventilated façade system, the use of materials that meet fire safety requirements is permitted. Is it worth reminding that cotton wool belongs to just such a group.

Technological features of installation of mineral wool

A ventilated facade finished with siding is a popular option for finishing private houses, because with its help all foundation errors are leveled out. And the work is not very difficult; it can be done on its own.

Over time, heaving forces or other reasons can cause cracks in the masonry, but the suspended cladding system does not suffer. And if we take into account the fragility of aerated concrete blocks and the need for strict adherence to production technology, most consumers give their preference to cladding, considering it a more durable finishing layer. To know how to properly insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, you need to understand the stages of the work.

Preparatory stage

If you decide to insulate a building that is already in use, all functional and decorative elements, clean the surface from dirt, prime. If there are doubts about the load-bearing capabilities of the foundation and walls, they are examined by tapping them with a hammer.

When insulation is carried out during construction, the remaining solution is removed from the surface. Wet walls should be given time to dry completely.

Surface marking

Markings are applied to the walls using a construction level or level to create a frame base. The distances between the bars depend on the size of the insulation material.

Installation of vertical racks

To completely eliminate heat leakage, insulation is performed in two layers, with overlaps at the joints. To do this, first assemble the vertical sheathing.

The size of the bars must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. Fix it to the aerated concrete surface with special fasteners.

Laying wool

The thickness of the insulation is determined according to special thermal calculations. Most often it is 10 - 15 cm. The complete absence of shrinkage and excellent elasticity of the material make it possible to simplify the technological process by installing wool without additional fasteners, inserting it by surprise. If necessary, they can always be trimmed with a sharp knife or a hand saw with a fine tooth. Cuttings are always useful for filling gaps.

Attaching horizontal posts

Having laid the first layer, markings are made for the horizontal slats. The second row of bars is necessary so that the frame base for the siding is fixed vertically to it.

Cotton padding

Plates laid sideways with the seam sections shifted completely eliminate cold bridges, even if the racks are fixed with metal fasteners.

Protection

We figured out how to insulate walls with stone wool. All that remains is to protect it from the effects of precipitation and ensure unimpeded drainage of condensate. For this purpose, vapor-permeable material is laid.

On top of such a membrane, fasteners are installed for the cladding, while maintaining a gap of three to five centimeters, ensuring normal operating conditions for the insulation.

Many people doubt whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete in this way, considering it costly. But the heat saved in the future will allow you to save on heating.

Internal insulation of a building made of aerated concrete blocks

We understand how to insulate the outside of walls. It remains to provide internal insulation. It is important to know here that aerated concrete should not be insulated inside, since winter time warm air currents will not be able to pass through the block pores. Condensation will begin to accumulate, the walls will become saturated with moisture and freeze. All this will have a negative impact on the operation of the facility. From the inside, you can simply level the walls with your own hands and hang wallpaper.

It turns out that aerated concrete is insulated only from the outside. This will help preserve heat and protect the house from destruction. By the way, don’t forget about the insulation for the ceiling. Mineral wool, already known for its properties, will perfectly cope with its role.

As follows from the reviews, it is better not to even design a house made of 300 mm aerated concrete without insulation.

Preference should be given to materials that have good vapor permeability.

Anyone who has decided to build a house from 400 mm aerated concrete without insulation, and is wondering whether this can be done, is recommended to simply plaster the outside walls to protect the blocks from destruction under the influence of precipitation. In addition, the plaster layer will give the building a presentable appearance.

When insulating walls, take care of reliable ventilation. In addition, the performance indicators of the insulating material must coincide with similar parameters of the materials used in the construction of walls.

Conclusion

There is now only one conclusion - wall insulation is necessary. Aerated concrete walls, insulated from the outside, have their own advantages:

• the work performed does not cause difficulties;
• the cost of the facility is reduced due to reliable thermal insulation of the walls.

To eliminate possible problems associated with the climate and the vital activity of rodents, it is recommended to insulate aerated concrete walls with mineralized wool, penoplex or polystyrene foam.

If the walls are insulated according to the rules, heating costs are minimized. Only carry out work in accordance with technological requirements, use high-quality materials.

betonov.com

Aerated concrete, although porous, in itself provides external thermal insulation can't do it at home. For strong load-bearing walls, you need sufficiently dense building blocks not lower than D500 grade. And in order for the box to be not only reliable, but also warm, they would have to be laid in two rows. It will be more expensive than insulating a load-bearing wall, and this approach does not solve the problem of losses 100%. Therefore, our review is devoted to materials that will best cope with this task.

1. Using mineral wool
2. Basalt panels
3. Insulation with PPS slabs
4. Spraying polyurethane foam

Only residents can afford to leave a house made of aerated concrete without external insulation southern regions, where there are no bitter frosts, and the temperature difference in winter outside and inside the house is not too great. In the central regions, practice shows that it is cheaper to do masonry in one to one and a half blocks, and then simply carry out external insulation.

The formation of a condensation plane, that is, a “dew point” that occurs when there is a large temperature difference outside and in the interior, should not be discounted. Because of this, unprotected masonry gets wet to a depth of 1-2 cm in winter, and the entire surface of the load-bearing walls from the thermal insulator turns into a continuous source of losses. To move this zone beyond the boundaries of the building envelope, a house made of aerated concrete needs insulation from the outside.

To choose the right material for external thermal insulation, you need to have a good understanding of the “behavior” of cellular blocks, taking into account all their pros and cons. Due to their high porosity, they not only reliably retain heat in the house, but also breathe quite actively themselves. Therefore, it is necessary to think about how air exchange will occur so as not to provoke the appearance of condensation under the external insulation.

Thermal insulation of a house made of aerated concrete is planned in accordance with the basic rule of vapor permeability of walls: with each subsequent layer of the facade “pie” it should increase. And if for some reason the selected material cannot ensure unhindered air movement from the inside, it is better to leave a ventilated gap in front of it. Aerated concrete has a vapor permeability in the range of 0.15-0.25 mg/m∙h∙Pa. Let's see how to insulate a house from the outside with these initial data.

Mineral wool

It perfectly passes air through its fibers, and it is easy to breathe in the interior. Another plus is the relatively low cost. So a completely logical solution would be to insulate the walls of the house with mineral wool. But it has a couple of not very useful properties:

• Hygroscopicity.

Insulation of an aerated concrete façade with a mineral “sponge” requires special protection of the thermal insulation from moisture, coming both in the form of suspended steam from inside the house and from the outside.

• Fragility.

Mineral wool lasts about 10-15 years, gradually crumbling into dust and losing its properties. After external cladding you will have to dismantle and start anew the insulation of the aerated concrete house.

Basalt slabs

A house made of aerated concrete can be lined with basalt products on the outside. This is a special and improved case of mineral wool - in no way inferior to it in terms of insulating properties, but more durable and with good performance characteristics.

Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete blocks is carried out using a technology that is at the same time similar to working with Penoplex and mineral wool materials. They are glued to primed walls and additionally fixed with facade dowels. But in comparison with expanded polystyrene, thermal insulation of aerated concrete with basalt slabs is a little more complicated, since it involves the use diffusion membrane. After this, plaster is applied to the outside of the insulation using reinforcing mesh and the facade is painted.

Basalt slab can be made from ultra-fine (1-3 microns) and thin fibers (4-15 microns). The first retains heat better due to the larger volume of air pores, the second is more affordable.

Expanded polystyrene

The insulation of aerated concrete from the outside with PPS slabs causes a lot of controversy. The reason is the low permeability of polystyrene foam and the appearance of a thermos effect, that is, a sealed shell that prevents air exchange. Another unpleasant moment is the possible shift of the “dew point” to the contact zone between the wall and the insulation, which causes waterlogging of the outer surface of the masonry.

But these problems can be solved with the help of ventilation gaps, especially if siding will be installed on the façade. Plastic cladding for aerated concrete, it must be placed at such a distance from the load-bearing walls that there is enough space left for Penoplex slabs, plus a gap of a couple of centimeters. The insulation itself is inserted between the frame guides, and the aerated concrete “releases steam” without hindrance.

Another scheme is possible if the house has effective supply and exhaust ventilation. In this case, insulating aerated concrete with Penoplex is greatly simplified. Everything you need to do to reliably insulate your home:

• place Penoplex slabs on the glue and secure them along the façade with dowels;
• seal the seams well with foam;
• stretch the mesh over the polystyrene foam and plaster the walls.

This method of insulating a house made of aerated concrete will create absolutely waterproof protection for porous blocks.

Polyurethane foam

Liquid polyurethane foam, which is applied to surfaces by spraying, is not very popular in private construction. To work with it you need special equipment, so you will have to spend money on calling a team - you can’t do this kind of insulation of aerated concrete on your own.

Spraying polyurethane foam allows you to create a continuous porous layer of insulation over the entire aerated concrete façade, which is not sensitive to moisture and does not collapse over time. In addition, thermal insulation simply adheres to the surface of the walls without violating the integrity of the blocks in the masonry, which, given their modest strength, is also important. But such external insulation is not cheap - for work and material 100 mm thick you will have to pay about 550 rubles / m2.

Characteristics of polyurethane foam:

• Coeff. thermal conductivity – 0.026 W/m∙K.
• Air permeability – about 0.1 mg/(m∙h∙Pa).
• Adhesion – 1.5-2.5 kg/cm2.
• Average water absorption by volume is 1.6%.
• Density – 40-120 kg/m3.
• Service life – from 25 years.
• Flammability class - G2.

Comparing the pros and cons of polyurethane foam with the properties of other external insulation materials, one should highlight its lowest thermal conductivity. But not in every city you can find companies that provide foam insulation services. So in most cases you will have to be content with more common and affordable materials.

Insulating aerated concrete walls from the outside is a simple and necessary procedure. Of course, there are many examples of buildings that stand perfectly without insulation or even external decoration. But in houses for year-round residence It’s better to spend once, even a considerable amount, on a reliable insulator, than to pay extra money for energy resources every winter.

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abisgroup.ru

Insulating a house made of aerated concrete from the outside and inside: selection of material, instructions

General characteristics of aerated concrete

Aerated concrete (or gas silicate) is very popular these days as a material for the construction of residential buildings. Its composition is silicates, cement, various industrial slag as a filler and an aluminum foaming component. Aluminum reacts with water, resulting in the release of hydrogen - hence the pores formed under the influence of gas bubbles.

This material is environmentally friendly, which is important in the modern world. It is easy to use and has a low price.

But it also has a number of significant disadvantages - they should not be forgotten when building houses using gas silicate blocks.

1. Low resistance to mechanical stress. Low strength. This material is used in the construction of houses up to three floors high, or if the building is reinforced with metal lintels, as a result of which the aerated concrete wall loses its thermal insulation qualities.
2. Gas silicate brick has high porosity, which causes increased water absorption. Therefore, the facade definitely needs to be covered with plaster or other finishing materials. If we neglect this factor, a wall made of aerated concrete under the influence of precipitation can absorb up to 35 percent of moisture.
3. Gas silicate brick eliminates any possibility of using self-tapping screws. Any mechanical violations of the structure are fraught with the destruction of the building. Therefore, chemical anchors should be used if necessary.

Is it necessary to insulate aerated concrete walls?

There is an opinion that gas silicate houses do not require special insulation, that the porous structure of gas silicate blocks ensures their high heat-insulating properties and the cladding provides sufficient protection for the walls. However, in practice everything is somewhat different. In order to decide whether it is necessary to insulate aerated concrete walls, the following factors should be considered:

• - the climate of your region;
• - thickness of gas silicate blocks;
• - thickness of the seam in the masonry;
• - filling the seam in the masonry.

If cement is used to fill the joints during the construction of aerated concrete walls, the joints will be thick and thermal insulation properties walls will be very dubious. It makes sense to use specialized glue in the masonry - this will allow you to make thin seams between the blocks. With a brick thickness of 375 mm, you can do without a heat-protective layer - facing the facade will be sufficient protection, but provided that the density of the blocks is low and the seams are made correctly.

It’s safe to say that a house made of gas silicate blocks needs to be finished with insulation if:

• - a material with a density of more than D500 was used;
• - gas silicate was used, the thickness of which is less than 30 cm;
• - if the supporting frame of the building was filled with aerated concrete bricks;
• - if the seams in the masonry are too thick;
• - if cement was used in the masonry instead of specialized glue.

Selection of material and method of heat-protective finishing

Before you start insulating a house made of aerated concrete, you should decide on the material and method of laying the insulation - outside or inside the house.

For thermal insulation, materials such as penoplex (foam plastic), PPU (polyurethane foam) and mineral wool are used. However, penoplex or, as it is also called, extruded polystyrene foam, deservedly enjoys the greatest popularity. It has high thermal insulation properties, does not absorb moisture, has a low mass, is easy to install and is available in many types. machining. Polystyrene foam is much cheaper than polyurethane foam and does not require special equipment for use. If installation is carried out correctly, insulating gas silicate walls with polystyrene foam will give a high heat-saving effect for your home.

When choosing to decorate your home with foam plastic from the inside, you need to remember the following:

• - the insulating layer will need to be changed frequently due to the fact that the chances of gas condensation occurring on the surface of gas silicate blocks and penoplex slabs are quite high;
• - there is a need for a waterproofing layer in order to protect the foam boards from moisture, and a ventilated layer to remove condensation. This significantly reduces the usable area of ​​your home.

An undoubted advantage of laying out a thermal layer from the inside is the ease of installation - this is especially important when large quantities floors in the building. If all of the above suits you, the method of thermal insulation of the house from the inside will be more simple solution.

When finishing gas silicate walls on the outside with foam plastic, the durability of the building increases, the facade looks more aesthetically pleasing, and the usable area of ​​your home is not “eaten up.” However, a number of difficulties arise when installing the insulating layer.

In any case, a house made of gas silicate blocks will need cladding to increase durability. It’s up to you to decide which method to choose.

Finishing the house with polystyrene foam outside

On initial stage You need to clean the aerated concrete walls from construction debris, deposits, and dust. We smooth out all the cracks, cracks and irregularities using special construction cement mortars and putties.

We prepare specialized glue by strictly following the instructions, avoiding the formation of lumps and solid particles. Use the prepared glue to spread the penoplex and aerated concrete wall over the entire surface. We lay the slabs end-to-end in a checkerboard pattern. Then we fix the penoplex with special plastic dowels. To do this, we drill holes in each slab in the center and in the corners. We hammer a dowel into each hole with a hammer and hide the cap in polystyrene foam. We hammer the plastic core into the middle of the dowel until it stops. We cut off the rest. We must fill the gaps between the plates with sealant or foam. After drying, the facade requires cladding to protect it from external weather influences. The method of thermal protection of aerated concrete walls from the outside is quite labor-intensive, but it is quite possible to do it on your own. Finishing cladding after insulation work also does not require special construction skills.

Finishing the house with foam plastic from the inside

At its core, the process of insulating a gas-block house with penoplex from the inside does not differ significantly from the external method. At the initial stage, we clean the wall from dust and debris, level it and rub it. We glue foam slabs onto the aerated concrete wall, as described in the previous section. After the glue and sealant have dried, we can begin plastering and finishing work. It should be noted that cladding the external surfaces of a gas-block house is necessary in any case - we should not forget about this.

Conclusion

Contrary to popular belief, gas-block houses should be insulated. This will make your home more comfortable, more durable, increase the soundproofing of your home, and protect the facade from snow and rain. And you can do it yourself. Everything is in your hands - go for it!

mynovostroika.ru

Insulating a house from foam blocks from the outside: the harm and benefits of polystyrene foam

How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete, what thermal insulation material to choose? These questions concern many who decide to build a house from cellular materials. Since the distinctive property of aerated concrete is vapor permeability, this property must be preserved.

For thermal insulation materials, this coefficient should be slightly lower than that of the material from which the walls are built. If this parameter is higher, there is a possibility of moisture accumulation.

Is it possible to use foam plastic, a material that is very popular, for insulation? How to properly insulate gas silicate walls Houses?

Properties of foam plastic

Like aerated concrete, polystyrene foam has positive and negative qualities

Advantages of the material

• Polyfoam is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic substances.
• Durable, does not decompose.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• High vapor barrier properties.
• Fireproof, fire-resistant, self-extinguishing.
• Low specific gravity, does not weigh down the structure.
• Relatively inexpensive material.

Properties of foam plastic - thermal conductivity, long service life and relatively good vapor permeability

Disadvantages of the material

• Fragility, foam crumbles easily.
• Destroys upon contact with nitro paints, enamels, varnishes.
• Does not allow air to pass through.
• The material can be damaged by rodents and therefore needs protection.

When choosing foam plastic as aerated concrete insulation on the outside, you need to take into account all its qualities. The vapor permeability coefficient of the material is lower than that of aerated concrete blocks. This problem can be solved by providing additional ventilation.

Insulating walls made of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam will increase the degree of sound insulation, eliminate temperature changes in the house, and reduce heating costs

Sequence of work on installing foam plastic from the outside

To insulate the facade of a building, you must adhere to the following sequence

1. Surface preparation. The aerated concrete surface must be cleaned of dirt, glue, and dents and other irregularities must be leveled;
2. External application of primer for porous materials;
3. It is recommended to reinforce the perimeter of the windows with fiberglass mesh. Its size should be such that 10 cm extends under the insulation;
4. Gluing foam boards. For this purpose, special adhesive for aerated concrete is used. Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is evenly distributed over a small area of ​​the wall outside the house or onto a sheet of insulation. The foam is pressed against the wall with light movements. All joints are treated with glue;
5. For additional external fastening, long plastic dowels with a cap are used - an umbrella in the middle of the sheet and at its corners;
6. The sheets will be glued correctly with an offset, just like when laying blocks;
7. Applying the first layer of plaster on the foam plastic, followed by gluing the reinforcing mesh. The joints of the mesh must be overlapped, so cracks will not form subsequently;
8. Applying a second layer of plaster;
9. Painting the facade.

Key points when working

In construction there is such a concept as “dew point”. The formation of condensate will depend on its location. When constructing walls, the point is located in the blocks themselves, but when they begin to insulate, a gradual shift occurs, moreover, towards the heat-insulating material.

High-quality insulation is the key to comfortable indoor conditions

We take into account the following points

• The house must have proper ventilation.
• It is necessary to select the correct thickness of the foam, taking into account the heat engineering indicators. It is possible to insulate the walls from the outside with thin sheets of 2 - 4 cm, but this would be a big mistake. The temperature in aerated concrete should always be positive. The central regions of Russia are characterized by low winter temperatures, sheets 10 cm thick - The best decision, that’s when the house will be warmer.

Let us emphasize once again that polystyrene foam is less permeable to vapor, so the humidity of aerated concrete walls increases by an average of 6 - 7%. Humidity can be reduced with a good ventilation system. You can insulate external walls with polystyrene foam, a lightweight waterproof material. It has poor vapor permeability. Other materials for façade insulation, such as expanded polystyrene foam and foam glass, are not so popular in use.

How important it is for the house to “breathe” depends only on you. You can make a house “breathable” if you provide good hood, and air supply.

Today, facade insulation with foam plastic is one of the most inexpensive methods, and is very popular, since the main purpose of insulation is to preserve heat. A material such as polystyrene copes well with this problem.

obloke.ru

Insulating a house made of foam blocks from the outside with penoplex

Houses built from foam blocks have a high heat-saving ability. But despite this, the walls of the building still need insulation. This will save thermal energy for a long time and save on heating costs. In addition, execute thermal insulation work Even a beginner can do it, as the whole process is quick and easy. It is also worth looking at how insulation occurs wooden house outside with mineral wool.

How to insulate

Today, choosing the right material should not pose any problems. To insulate a house made of foam blocks, you can use numerous options for heat insulators that are commercially available.

Mineral wool

This material goes well with foam blocks. Mineral wool has excellent vapor permeable and thermal insulation properties. But you can only achieve durable thermal insulation if you use special glue when attaching the material. But you cannot use cement mortar, as it creates cold bridges.

Insulation of a house made of foam blocks mineral wool

It is best to fasten the foam block with glue rather than mortar. The advantages of mineral wool remain its resistance to damage, combustion, and environmental safety. This material is also perfect for do-it-yourself insulation of the front door.

Expanded polystyrene

In terms of its soundproofing qualities, the material is inferior to mineral wool. But despite this, it is able to resist fire and moisture. It’s also very convenient to work with polystyrene foam, and anyone can buy it, since it’s inexpensive. When using polystyrene foam, it is necessary to take into account that it allows steam to pass through, as a result of which the room can be stuffy.

Expanded polystyrene for insulation

So it is necessary to carry out insulation using the material in question in houses where there is excellent ventilation. Sometimes when using polystyrene foam you have to take care artificial ventilation by installing air conditioners. It will also be useful to learn about how the house is insulated and covered with siding.

Polyurethane foam

This material is suitable for those who want to complete all the work on insulating a house made of foam blocks as quickly as possible. After insulation, maximum protection of foam blocks is created from the negative effects of precipitation.

Polyurethane foam for insulation of foam blocks

But the material has a number of disadvantages that must be taken into account when purchasing polyurethane foam:

1. Since the material is applied by spraying, the base is completely isolated. Consequently, he stops breathing. In addition, the heat insulator partially penetrates deep into the structure, filling the pores of the foam blocks. There may also be difficulties with ventilation that cannot be eliminated with your own efforts.
2. Polyurethane foam is not a cheap pleasure. It can only be used with special equipment. Even before application, it is important to prepare the composition correctly. Here you will have to pay for the services of specialists. You can read here how to insulate a façade with polystyrene foam yourself.
3. The material is difficult to repair. Dismantle the insulation on separate area It won't work on its own. You will have to again seek the services of specialists. You will also have to disassemble the exterior trim.

Plaster

In this case, it will be necessary to use special compounds that have different thermal insulation properties.

Using plaster

The advantages of dry thermal insulation include:

• speed of thermal insulation work;
• you can change it for little money appearance your building;
• possibility of repairs;
• excellent protection of the foam block from the influence of external factors.

It will also be useful to learn how to insulate the front door with your own hands.

Of course, plaster also has its disadvantages, but they can be simply minimized if you use the following simple tips:

1. When choosing a mixture, make sure that it is intended specifically for foam blocks.
2. The process of insulating walls made of foam blocks with plaster requires a certain skill and experience. In addition, everything needs to be done not just efficiently, but also quickly. This is due to the fact that the plaster sets quickly, so there is a risk of forming joints in individual areas that will be visible.
3. When using plaster, you need to strictly follow the technology. Plaster should be laid in 2 layers. In this case, the thickness of the outer layer should be 2 times less than the inner one.
4. Plaster mixtures for foam blocks are presented with different composition. So each type has a different degree of adhesion.

It may also be useful for you to learn about how to insulate plastic windows yourself.

Polyurethane foam

This insulation option is considered one of the fastest. In addition, polyurethane foam is characterized by excellent heat conductivity. It creates excellent protection for walls from frost.

Polyurethane foam for insulating foam blocks

To the benefits of application polyurethane foam can be attributed:

1. Easy to apply to the base.
2. Excellent insulating qualities, sometimes acts as a waterproofing agent.

As for the downsides, polyurethane foam is exposed to sunlight. The protective layer on the surface contributes to significant material consumption. Thus, it is simply impossible to obtain an absolutely smooth surface.

It will also be useful to learn more about how insulation occurs wooden floor in a private house.

Insulation process

Depending on what kind of insulation you decide to use, it is necessary that its surface is rough. This will allow you to achieve high-quality adhesion to the glue. If it is polystyrene foam, then no preparatory measures need to be taken. Extruded polystyrene foam requires additional energy consumption. Before attaching it, it is necessary to treat it with a needle roller. If you use foam plastic, then you need to make fire-resistant cuts between floors from non-combustible material.

Video of insulation of a house made of foam blocks from the outside:

To begin insulating a house made of foam blocks from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the slopes and ebb the tide. The fact is that during the work you may find that it is necessary to dismantle them and then reinstall them. But after insulation it will be impossible to do this.

It may also be useful for you to learn about how to insulate a wooden floor from below in a private house.

The structure of the insulating cake will include the following layers:

• primer composition,
• insulation adhesive,
• thermal insulation material,
• dowel,
• reinforcing glue,
• alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh,
• perforated corner,
• reinforcing glue second layer,
• primer,
• plaster,
• primer composition,
• dye.

The process of laying the material begins from the lower area of ​​the wall. To do this, attach a rail. Its task is to ensure that the insulation sheets do not move during installation. Apply glue along the entire perimeter of the sheet and wall using a spatula. In this case, the glue is not applied to the entire wall, but only along the dimensions of one sheet. The sheets are laid closely so that the space between the plates does not exceed 2 mm. Some builders, in addition to glue, use dowels, performing fasteners in 5 places.

When insulating walls near openings, then instead of foam plastic it is better to use pieces of mineral wool, the width of which is 20 cm. Remove the resulting seams with foam and tape. After 3 days, you can remove the support rail. Now you can move on to reinforcement with glue and fiberglass mesh. There is no need to remove the mesh. Its fasteners at the joints are overlapped. Then comes priming, plastering and painting.

It may also be useful for you to learn about how the ceiling of a private house is insulated with sawdust.

If you are cladding with siding, then before laying the heat insulator you need to build a frame, and then lay the siding on top of the insulating material. Do this so that a small gap is formed between the insulation and the siding panels.

The process of insulating a house from foam blocks from the outside is such an important, responsible and uncomplicated job. Any owner who has already been able to make a choice can cope with them heat-insulating material. Choose it based on the climate in your region and your personal wishes.

fasdoma.ru

Is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete?

First of all, you need to say a few words about aerated concrete itself.

Material with a porous structure.

When creating blocks use:

Aerated concrete blocks are very convenient: they can be cut (and quite easily), they weigh little, do not affect human health, cost relatively little and have a high level of sound insulation.

But aerated concrete also has a number of disadvantages:

• They are not sufficiently resistant to mechanical stress. That is, from such material it is possible to build buildings with a maximum height of 3 floors.
• The material is relatively fragile and therefore requires precise installation of the foundation and laying of the blocks themselves. Errors during laying (or installing the foundation) often lead to cracking of the material.
• You also need to use anchors as fasteners (other fasteners can lead to cracking of the concrete).
• Since the material is porous, it will absorb moisture well, which means it needs to be lined or coated with a special solution.

Is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete 400

Now this topic is relevant among owners of aerated concrete houses: “to insulate or not to insulate their houses.”

It’s difficult to answer, it depends on many parameters, including the location of your home (region).

Although often the construction team insists on insulation (mandatory) in order to increase the cost of the work.

If you want to avoid unnecessary expenses, you need to calculate how much this insulation will pay for itself; if it pays off in more than 100 years, then the meaning of such insulation...

If the walls are built with high quality and your climate is mild enough, then you will probably have enough simple insulation roofs (also inspect windows and doors, insulate if possible) but without external insulation of walls.

So is it necessary to insulate aerated concrete?

It is necessary to insulate if your house is located in a cold climate and this will bring you benefits - that is, savings on heating.

But keep one thing in mind: aerated concrete blocks have a high level of vapor permeability and they need to be insulated in such a way that the vapor permeability decreases from the outer part of the wall to the inner one.

Insulate a house made of aerated concrete with your own hands

Typically, blocks are insulated from the outside using one of 2 types of insulation:

• Penoplex;
• Mineral wool.

External insulation of blocks with penoplex

Penoplex insulation is the most profitable (in terms of cost) and insulation quality option. Penoplex insulation is best done from the outside.

1. First of all, you need to prepare the surface. Since the blocks themselves are even and have a smooth surface, there is no need to additionally level the surface to perfection.
2. If there are cracks or chips, they need to be covered with plaster (or special glue)
3. It also needs to be sealed window slopes.
4. After plastering, the surface is coated with a primer (this creates greater adhesion).
5. After the primer has dried, you can begin laying the foam boards.
6. The insulation is glued to the surface using cement glue and additionally pressed with dowels.
7. And finally, you need to take care of finishing the facade.

External insulation of blocks with stone wool

House insulation can also be done with stone wool; it can be used both for siding and plaster.

If it is under siding, then install the sheathing using vertical guides on the outside of the house, lay the insulation in the niches and cover it with a layer of vapor barrier, and fix the siding on top.

Is it possible to insulate from the inside?

Experts and craftsmen recommend insulating it from the outside, but not from the inside. Since from external to internal, vapor permeability should decrease. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate in the blocks themselves, and the strength of the entire structure will decrease.

Only external insulation will help you both insulate the house and protect the structure from moisture

Average cost for insulating a house made of aerated concrete

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3

stroysvoy-dom.ru

How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside: penoplex or mineral wool, sequence of operations (photo, video)

How and with what to insulate the outside of a house made of aerated concrete?

• Mineral wool for insulating aerated concrete
• How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete: sequence of work

Thermal insulation of a house has become a standard for quality construction. Thanks to the popularity of walls made of porous concrete, the question arose: is it necessary to insulate buildings made of aerated concrete? The answer to this question depends on several factors: the thickness of the cellular walls, the presence of cold bridges, the region of construction and its winter temperatures. How to determine the need for insulation? What materials should be used to properly insulate a house made of aerated concrete?

Diagram of the advantages of aerated concrete.

Insulation of aerated concrete: how and when to insulate it?

Insulation of aerated concrete walls is necessary in the following cases:

1. The thickness of the walls is less than 600 mm indicated by building codes (for regions of central and northern Russia).
2. If the masonry did not use special glue, but a cement-sand mortar. It is a cold bridge, so insulation is required.
3. If for the purpose of strengthening bearing capacity walls were erected with a reinforcing belt and a frame made of ordinary concrete. Having lower heat-saving properties, concrete in the frame becomes a cold bridge. The walls require insulation.

Scheme of vapor permeability of aerated concrete walls.

It is important to know that the actual thermal conductivity of aerated concrete walls is lower than that of individual porous blocks. This is explained by the presence of masonry joints, which are cold bridges. Therefore, thermal insulation of aerated block houses is necessary in almost all regions of Russia.

The best insulation of the walls of a house is done from the outside. Outdoor placement of insulating material is constructive correct solution. It is due to the fact that the dew point moves into the insulating material. The load-bearing wall remains dry, condensation forms in the insulator.

At the 0°C point, condensation forms. To remove it from the insulation, it is necessary that the insulating outer layer be porous. Which material is best suited for external thermal insulation of an aerated concrete wall?

Among the common insulators (polyurethane foam and construction wool), preference in insulating aerated concrete walls should be given to mineral or stone wool. It is a porous material, and its porosity is higher than that of foamed aerated concrete. This is another rule for high-quality insulation: if the wall consists of several layers, then their vapor transmission capacity should increase in the direction from the inside to the outside. The most high ability The outer layer should allow steam and air to pass through.

It is necessary to consider the advantages of mineral wool and the features of its installation on vertical walls.

Expanding the topic of this article, it is necessary first of all to answer the question of what aerated concrete is. Well, first of all, it is a building material. Secondly, it belongs to the category of cellular concrete, as a result of which a porous structure saturated with gas bubbles is formed inside the material.

Accordingly, the quality of this material will largely depend on the uniform distribution of pores, their density and closedness.

Note!
In principle, this is a natural material that is made from quartz sand and cement with the addition of special gas-forming agents.
Most often, their role is performed by aluminum powder.

Technologies for the production of aerated concrete are different, hence the recipe, which varies depending on the type of technological process. For example, manufacturers often add lime to the composition of aerated concrete, less often gypsum.

The production technology is quite simple.

1. All components are mixed in certain proportions.
2. Molding takes place, where the material begins to expand under the influence of chemical reaction, during which gas formation occurs.
3. After preliminary drying, the aerated concrete is cut into blocks.
4. Then the finished product must be dried. There are two methods: autoclave and non-autoclave.

Attention!
When using the first method, the strength characteristics of the material increase, but at the same time its price becomes higher.

Pay attention to one very important point, which relates to the topic of our article. The porous structure of aerated concrete suggests that this material itself is a good heat insulator. True, there is one “BUT” here. By increasing the thermal insulation qualities of aerated concrete, we reduce its strength properties.

That is, the more pores inside the product, the weaker it is, but the higher the insulation performance. Therefore, the question of whether or not to insulate a house built from aerated concrete blocks will largely depend on the brand of the product. And if you purchase more porous blocks, then remember, you should not build multi-story buildings from them.

Now let's move on to the process itself and from the inside.

Is it necessary to insulate

We partially answered the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete. But it is necessary to focus on another aspect. Aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, that is, they “breathe” very well. This seems to be a big plus, but on the other hand it is also a minus.

Attention!
Walls made of aerated concrete blocks must be constructed in such a way that the vapor permeability of the material decreases from outer surface walls to the inside.
That is, the question of how to properly insulate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete is solved in exactly this way.
If everything turns out the other way around, then the gas inside the pores will begin to gain moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the material, and, accordingly, the entire structure of the building as a whole.

To prevent the penetration of wet vapors into the body of the blocks, it is necessary to insulate the walls both outside and inside. Therefore, first of all, we will analyze several basic thermal insulation materials that are currently most often used in this process.

Let's figure out how to insulate aerated concrete walls.

Insulation materials

Modern market building materials Today we are ready to offer a huge range of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate aerated concrete.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam

Experts today give preference to such heat insulators as:

1. expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
2. polyurethane foam.

• The first insulation has a different structure relative to the density of the material itself. For example, ordinary polystyrene foam (also known as polystyrene foam) is less durable, less dense, and, accordingly, less reliable. In addition, it does not have high thermal insulation rates.
  Extruded polystyrene foam is a dense and durable insulation material with high thermal insulation performance.

• Polyurethane foam is a unique material. Firstly, it is a building mixture that is applied to the walls under pressure. Secondly, when it hits the surface, it instantly bonds with it, creating a reliable foamed protective layer. Thirdly, such insulation will last for several decades.

But there is one very serious point here. Expanded polystyrene is a slab material that is not difficult to lay on the wall with your own hands. But you won’t be able to apply polyurethane foam to the surfaces to be treated yourself.

This requires not only experience and skills, but also special equipment. That's why this method insulation is quite expensive, but effective.

Mineral wool

I would like to say a little about mineral wool. This is one of the most effective thermal insulation materials. But experts note that it is better not to use it with aerated concrete.

The thing is that mineral wool has the property of drawing in moist air vapor, which is a negative factor for aerated concrete blocks (we have already discussed this above).

So, you know which insulation for aerated concrete walls is better, now you can move on to the very process of arranging the thermal protection of the building.

And first of all, we will consider insulating aerated concrete with expanded polystyrene as the most budget option.

Insulation of walls made of aerated concrete blocks

As mentioned above, insulation of aerated concrete walls is carried out from the outside and from the inside. Why on both sides?

Remember!
Humidity and condensation largely depend on the dew point.
Until thermal insulation work is carried out, this point is located on the surface of the wall.
As soon as the insulation process is completed, the dew point will shift to the surface of the heat insulator.
A small mistake or incorrect work can lead to condensation forming on the insulation, and this is a guarantee that this material will soon begin to lose its qualities and properties.

As in any construction process, the insulation of aerated concrete houses is divided into several stages.

Stage No. 1

This is the internal insulation of aerated concrete walls.

I would like to note that many of us independently insulated a loggia or balcony, so many technical processes will be familiar, taking into account the specifics of aerated concrete.

• In principle, aerated concrete blocks are a very flat and smooth surface, which makes no sense to process to perfection. But sometimes they also have defects. Therefore, cracks and chips are sealed with glue or cement mortar, and the bumps are removed sandpaper or a sharp spatula.
• After which the entire surface must be primed to create high wall adhesion. Please note that in some areas of the house the walls will be subject to negative impact humidity.
  So, such walls must be treated with waterproofing compounds. And when it all dries (usually this takes up to six hours), you can start plastering. IN in this case There is no need to use a thick layer of plaster.
• And the last thing is finishing. The easiest way is to paint the walls with special vapor-permeable paints, which are specially made for aerated concrete.
  If plasterboard is used as finishing, then the wall must be additionally treated with a primer. By the way, drywall can be glued to such surfaces.

Stage No. 2

This is insulation of the facade of a house made of aerated concrete. Everything is much simpler here because there is no need to mess with dirty processes. Although it should be noted that manufacturers today have begun to offer plaster solutions that are intended specifically for aerated concrete blocks.

Such solutions have excellent vapor-permeable properties, and also never crack.

Attention!
There is one very important point.
If the walls are treated with vapor-permeable materials from the inside and vapor-tight materials from the outside, then the likelihood is that inside the house there will be high humidity, very large.
Therefore, be extremely careful when choosing a heat insulator.

The slab material is laid directly on the wall, for which you can use either a cement-based fastening mortar or special mushroom-shaped screws. In the case of self-tapping screws, experts do not recommend using hardware which will begin to rust after some time.

And the last thing is finishing. What to choose?

In principle, there are a lot of materials, it’s better to note what not to choose.

• Vapor-proof paints;
• Polymer-based solutions;
• Solutions based on foamed plastics;
• Foam glass.

Yes, and do not forget to insulate all elements of the house, otherwise there will be little benefit from the work done. We're talking about insulation. plastic windows, entrance doors, basement, roof and so on.

Conclusion on the topic

As you can see, the instructions on how to properly insulate a house made of aerated concrete using expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) are not that complicated. Of course, knowing the nuances of this process will ensure simplicity and reliability, but in any case, anyone can cope with such work without problems.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Aerated concrete blocks are widely used in modern construction both in our country and abroad. Despite the fact that aerated concrete has good thermal insulation qualities, walls made of this material must be insulated (to reduce the cost of heating the house and increase the energy-saving performance of the entire building). Insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam is very effective and inexpensive way achieving this goal.

Selection of insulation material

Experts say that it is more expedient to insulate a structure made of aerated concrete from the outside than from the inside of the house: firstly, the usable area of ​​the room is not lost; secondly, the “dew point” shifts beyond the aerated concrete blocks. To insulate aerated concrete buildings from the outside, a variety of materials are used: mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex), polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene). Expanded polystyrene is the most popular due to its low thermal conductivity, durability and low cost. This material is fireproof due to the fact that it contains anti-foam. Also, the advantages of the material include ease of processing and installation: it is easy to cut into pieces of the desired shape, and slabs of standard sizes (0.5 x 1, 1 x 1, 1 x 2 m) are conveniently attached to aerated concrete walls. The thickness of the material (from 20 to 100 mm) allows you to create a sufficient heat-insulating layer (if necessary, the panels can be folded in half). Also, to order, factories produce non-standard sheets of expanded polystyrene with a thickness of up to 500 mm. That is, for insulating aerated concrete with polystyrene foam, there is a large selection of finished products.

Calculation of insulation thickness

To determine the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, you need to make a simple calculation. We take data for calculations from reference tables. SNiP standardizes the total required heat transfer resistance for walls (Ro) depending on the region (measured in m² °C/W). This value is the sum of the heat transfer resistance of the wall material (Rst) and the insulation layer (Rth): Ro = Rst + Rth. For example, we choose St. Petersburg (Ro=3.08).

Heat transfer resistance is calculated using the formula R= δ ⁄ λ, where δ is the thickness of the material (m), λ is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material (W/m °C). Let's say our house is built from aerated concrete blocks of the D500 brand, 300 mm thick (λ = 0.42 - we take it from the reference table). Then the wall’s own heat transfer resistance without thermal insulation will be Rst = 0.3/0.42 = 0.72, and the heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer Rt = Ro-Rst = 3.08-0.72 = 2.36. As a thermal insulation material, we choose light polystyrene with a density of 10 kg/mᶟ (λ=0.044 W/m °C).

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is calculated using the formula δ=Rут λ. The thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene with a density of 10 kg/mᶟ is λ=0.044 W/m °C.

Insulation thickness δ=2.36 0.044=0.104 m, that is, according to the norms and rules, they are suitable for our house standard slabs made of polystyrene 10 cm thick.

We check our calculations for the “dew point” temperature (formation of condensation in the wall):

The graphs show that the condensation zone (the area where the wall temperature lines coincide with the “dew point” temperature) is located in the heat-insulating layer and even at an outside air temperature of -30˚C does not reach the aerated concrete. Conclusion: our thermal insulation layer is calculated correctly, that is, even at the most low temperatures a wall made of aerated concrete will not become saturated with moisture.

Let's say you don't want to make any calculations, and you decide to just buy a material 5 cm thick. Let's see in what area the condensation zone will be located at this thickness and all other conditions being equal. For clarity, here is a graph:

We see that moisture is formed not only in the heat-insulating layer, but also in aerated concrete. The presence of water, the thermal conductivity of which is significantly higher (λ≈0.6) than that of aerated concrete and expanded polystyrene, leads to a decrease in the heat-saving characteristics of the walls of the structure, that is, the result is a “cold house”.

Insulation of walls made of aerated concrete blocks

Despite the fact that the application polystyrene foam boards to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, it reduces its “breathing” properties; this material is widely used. The technology for arranging a thermal insulation layer is quite simple and can be easily done independently.

Preparing the walls

The surface of aerated concrete blocks is quite flat, so preparing the walls comes down to removing the buildup of adhesive mortar in the area of ​​the interblock seams. Potholes (if any formed during the construction process) are sealed with repair cement mortar. Then we cover the entire surface of the wall with an antiseptic solution (to prevent mold and mildew formation). After the antiseptic has dried, we prime the walls to improve adhesion when gluing polystyrene slabs to aerated concrete.

Installation of thermal insulation boards

We cover the walls of the building with sheets of expanded polystyrene using special adhesives. As glue, you can use ready-made dry mixtures (Ceresit CT 85, T-Avangard-K, Kreisel 210, Bergauf ISOFIX), liquid adhesives (Bitumast) or ready-made assembly adhesives in aerosol packaging (Tytan Styro 753, Ceresit CT 84 “Express” , Soudal Soudatherm, TechnoNIKOL 500). We apply glue to the slabs along the perimeter and additionally in several places on the surface.

Important! The adhesives should not contain solvents or other chemical components that can damage the surface of expanded polystyrene or disrupt the structure of the material.

Many adhesive compositions allow installation of slabs at ambient temperatures from -10˚С to +40˚С. However, experts in the field of house construction recommend carrying out thermal insulation work at a temperature not lower than +7˚С and in dry, windless weather.

First, we glue the first bottom row of foam plastic boards along the entire perimeter of the building, then we attach the remaining rows. We press the slabs with force against the wall surface and lay them in a checkerboard pattern. We check the correct installation with a level.

Important! In the corners of the structure, the panels are laid end-to-end, that is, in such a way that in one row the panel from the end of the building extends to the thickness of the sheet, and the panel located at an angle of 90 degrees rests against it. In the next row, the operation is performed in reverse order.

After the adhesive composition has completely dried (about 1 day), we additionally fasten each sheet using special dowels with large caps (“umbrellas”), which should not contain metal parts. The fact is that they rust and create additional cold bridges in the heat-insulating layer: that is, the dowel itself and the central nail must be plastic. Depending on the size, 5-6 dowels are needed for each sheet.

Using a hammer drill, we make a hole in the thermal insulation layer and the aerated concrete wall, then use a hammer to hammer in the dowel and insert a fixing nail.

After the installation of all fastening dowels is completed, we proceed to finishing the walls.

External finishing of polystyrene foam insulator

Since polystyrene foam has low strength and is susceptible to negative influence ultraviolet radiation, after its installation it is necessary to carry out finishing work.

First, on top of the polystyrene foam, using a special plaster mortar (or adhesive composition), we attach a fiberglass reinforcing mesh, which prevents cracking of the plaster and improves adhesion. After complete drying, apply a layer of finishing decorative plaster. Such external finishing is quite sufficient to give the heat-insulating layer the necessary strength.

We insulate the floor with polystyrene foam

Insulation of a concrete floor with polystyrene foam is carried out in sheets with a density of 20-30 kg/mᶟ. We make flooring of polystyrene foam boards as follows:

• do a preliminary leveling fill (this is done if the difference in height of the base exceeds 5 mm), let it dry;
• prime the surface;
• We attach a damper tape along the entire perimeter of the room to the bottom of the walls;
• We lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the screed (ordinary polyethylene is quite suitable: at the joints the material is overlapped - at least 10 cm, on the walls we add at least 20 cm; we fasten everything with construction tape);
• we lay polystyrene sheets on the floor according to the groove-tenon principle in a checkerboard pattern (the tenons must fit completely into the grooves);
• We lay a vapor barrier and reinforcing mesh on top of the thermal insulation layer;
• We make the screed of the required thickness.

On a note! This method of insulation is very effective, but the height of the room is reduced by 10-15 cm.

Floor insulation can be done not only using expanded polystyrene slabs, but also using expanded polystyrene concrete, making a screed out of it (since the thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene concrete is low - λ=0.05÷0.07 W/m °C). We prepare the solution for this filling ourselves by mixing necessary ingredients: 20 kg of cement, 12.5 liters of water and 0.125 m³ of polystyrene foam granules, or buy a ready-made dry mixture. After insulation with polystyrene concrete, we make a finishing screed (if necessary) and lay the floor covering.

Ceiling insulation

Polystyrene foam can be successfully used to insulate indoor ceilings. As a rule, thin sheets 5 cm thick are used for these purposes. Attaching the slabs to the ceiling is similar to laying them on an external wall. The only difference is that you can use adhesives and plaster mixtures, which are intended for indoor use (they are cheaper than for outdoor use).

In custody

By correctly calculating the thickness of the thermal insulation layer made of polystyrene foam and following the technology of laying sheets and external finishing, you can build a warm and comfortable house for living in any region.

The use of aerated concrete as a material for the construction of houses is very widespread. But often the owners do not know whether it is worthwhile to insulate such a building or not. Having understood this issue, and also having considered the best options for insulating a home of this type, it will be possible to make the living conditions the most comfortable.

Why insulate a house made of aerated concrete?

To understand why aerated concrete buildings need insulation, you should first understand the features of the aerated concrete blocks themselves. Aerated concrete is a material that has a cellular structure and is made from a mixture of cement and quartz sand. A distinctive feature of aerated concrete from other cellular concrete is the addition of a gas-forming agent during production.

There are several approaches to the production of aerated concrete blocks. Typically, the constituent elements are mixed in certain proportions and then molded. When aerated concrete dries, it is cut into blocks and additionally put through autoclave processing. There is also a non-autoclave manufacturing method, but it does not produce high-strength material.

The insulation capabilities of aerated concrete blocks are relatively high. But to reduce the cost of building a house, it is better to use additional insulation. It allows you to reduce the thickness of aerated concrete walls, but does not interfere with the permeability of the structure to air. There are two methods of thermal insulation of such a building - internal and external.

External insulation: what material to choose?

It is possible to qualitatively insulate a house made of aerated concrete blocks from the outside only by choosing a suitable material. It is worth paying attention to such insulation options.

1. Foam plastic and penoplex. Well known in the construction market. They are separate slabs, the thickness of which is 3-5 cm. The big advantages of penoplex are the ease of working with it when carrying out thermal insulation measures, good thermal insulation and high density. Penoplex and polystyrene foam can be used to create a thermal insulation layer before finishing the siding or other cladding panels. Thermal panels can also be installed on top of this insulation.

2. Mineral wool. It is also very popular. But the problem is that mineral wool can absorb moisture. In the case of aerated concrete, this is a destructive feature. Therefore, it is not recommended to use mineral wool for houses made of aerated concrete blocks. Aerated concrete itself very easily allows air to pass through, along with steam passing through it. In such a situation, the probability of rapid destruction of the material is very high.

3. Polyurethane foam. Unlike the previously mentioned insulation materials, polyurethane foam is a building mixture. Special equipment is used to apply it to the surface of the walls. Polyurethane foam foams in a short period and quickly gains density. It will last for decades, but it will be expensive. Applying polyurethane foam yourself is very problematic.

Now it’s worth considering how each of these materials is installed. Then it will be clear what the essence of the insulation work is.

The simplest insulation option is to use polystyrene foam. Most often this insulation is combined with siding or other cladding panels. First, a frame for PVC panels is installed, between the elements of which foam boards are laid. Then you can proceed to installing the siding.

It is important that there are no gaps between the foam boards. If they appear, they are filled with polyurethane foam. Another finishing option is applying plaster. It is necessary to use plaster for facade works under further painting. Then the protection of the walls of an aerated concrete house will be the highest.

Thermal insulation of aerated concrete house with penoplex

This method will not cost much more than foam insulation. But the result will be better, because penoplex is more practical. For the outcome to be truly good, the following stages of the event must be followed.

1. Preparatory work

Due to the fact that aerated concrete blocks have a smooth surface, it is not necessary to level them in a special way and transfer them with insulation. But sometimes defects are found on the walls. If any defects are found, they must be eliminated with glue and plaster. When insulating slopes, plastering is also carried out, since without it there is a danger of the formation of cold bridges through which heat will escape from the interior.

2. Fastening thermal insulation materials

It is possible to ensure reliable fastening of penoplex on walls made of aerated blocks if the latter are first coated with a primer. After drying, you can begin to attach the insulation. It is better to use glue with cement base. In addition to gluing, dowels with wide heads are additionally used for installing penoplex.

3. External cladding of the facade

Most often, penoplex is laid to create a thermal insulation layer under plaster or siding. The owner can determine which one finishing material more suitable for him.

Thermal insulation of aerated concrete buildings with mineral wool

When working with mineral wool, approximately the same steps are followed as in the case of laying polystyrene foam. That is, you will need to install vertical guides that will act as a frame for the siding. But it is important that the mineral wool slabs are additionally covered with a vapor barrier. After laying it, the mineral wool is fixed, which is then additionally covered with a vapor barrier film. Having completed such work, you can begin covering the facade with finishing materials.

Internal insulation of a house made of aerated concrete blocks

External insulation of aerated concrete buildings was discussed above. But there is also a method that involves thermal insulation from the inside. However, experts do not recommend resorting to this method. With this method, condensation may occur. The danger of such a negative manifestation can be reduced by choosing a more successful thermal insulation material.

Here it is necessary to proceed from the fact that in order to reduce the risk of condensation on the walls, it is necessary to reduce the vapor permeability of materials when moving from the outside of the walls to the inside. Mineral wool, as a material with very high vapor permeability, is unlikely to be suitable in this case. It is much better if the owner chooses penoplex or polyurethane foam for internal insulation.

Proper insulation is the key to comfortable living

Buildings made of aerated concrete, with all their advantages, still require additional thermal insulation. Therefore, the owner must approach such work very responsibly if he wants to receive decent conditions accommodation. As is now clear, it is better to place heat-insulating material on the outside. Internal insulation cannot be called optimal.

Video on how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete with your own hands

Aerated concrete (gas silicate) is one of the most popular materials in modern house construction. Houses made of aerated concrete have become a familiar part of the countryside landscape; from 15 to 20% of new buildings built over the past 10 years are houses made of aerated concrete blocks. The porous structure of the material, characteristic of all lightweight concrete, ensures high performance characteristics of the structure. In many cases, owners decide to carry out additional insulation of the house using aerated concrete from the outside. This measure allows you to minimize heat loss and improve the microclimate of your home.

A house made of aerated concrete needs high-quality insulation

About the need for insulation

The structure of aerated concrete is a complex system of many open cells (voids) filled with air. This structural feature causes two useful properties material:

Good thermal insulation. The manufacturer claims that the porous structure of aerated concrete brings its thermal insulation properties closer to wood, and is three to four times superior to brick. In the middle zone, according to SNiPs, the thickness external walls 400-500 mm will be sufficient without additional insulation if a block of a brand no lower than D500 is used. These calculations are correct, but do not take into account the second property of aerated concrete.

Gas permeability. Open pores mean that the material is able not only to transmit, but also to accumulate moisture, which is what happens during the operation of the house. Walls that have absorbed a certain amount of moisture become denser (water accumulates in the pores, like in capillaries). The thermal conductivity of such walls increases, and the ability to retain heat decreases, which is especially noticeable in regions with harsh winters. And if in the south (where the winter temperature difference between inside and outside the building is small) country houses do not need insulation, then to the north the walls must be protected.

The properties of aerated concrete are determined by its structure

Principles for choosing insulation

When choosing a suitable material for insulating aerated concrete walls, three factors are taken into account:

Physical properties of the material. Aerated concrete can regulate the humidity in the room: the walls breathe, allowing water vapor to pass out. The external cladding should not impede this diffusion.

Insulation properties. It should not just be vapor permeable; vapor permeability should be higher than that of aerated concrete blocks.

Insulation rule. It says: the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer of facade insulation should increase. If the selected material cannot easily allow air to pass out, then a ventilated gap must be installed behind it.

Compliance with these conditions helps to shift the dew point beyond the walls. If the masonry is not protected by anything, moisture accumulating inside, when severe frost inevitably freezes. This leads to noticeable heat loss; after several cycles of freezing and thawing, the destruction of the surface layer of the blocks may begin.

Good to know! The dew point is a plane in the thickness of the wall where, due to the difference in external and internal temperatures, water vapor condenses into dew. At competent organization external insulation, the dew point moves outward and cannot harm the walls.

Dew point shift when using insulation

The energy efficiency of a house is affected not only by properly selected insulation, but also by the quality of the wall masonry. If the interblock seams are made incorrectly (too thick), even high-quality insulation will not give the desired effect. Glue joints with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm are considered optimal. Laying blocks on cement-sand mortar with a seam of 10-12 mm will increase heat loss (and heating bills) by 20-20%.

Types and advantages of facade insulation

There is an alternative possibility - insulating the building from the inside. This option is less preferable for several reasons:

Living space will decrease.

Required installation effective ventilation system.

High will appear risk of mold formation, since the dew point will shift inside the home. Moisture and heat are optimal conditions for unpretentious microorganisms and fungi.

External insulation not only increases the service life of walls, but also preserves usable area housing. Suitable materials It is generally accepted to consider mineral wool, polystyrene foam, as well as polyurethane foam and penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam).

Internal insulation reduces the usable area of ​​housing

Considering different variants on how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, many opt for ordinary or mineral plaster; the latter is specifically designed for aerated concrete walls. The insulation layer can be sheathed with several finishing materials:

Siding or clapboard.

Face brick or decorative stone.

Plaster.

Grouting joints followed by the use of vapor-permeable facade paint.

Installation of an insulating layer on the outside has the following positive aspects:

Energy efficiency increases buildings and heating bills are reduced.

Load-bearing walls are not exposed to natural forces, which increases service life country house.

Together with improved sound insulation of walls increases comfort of living.

Improves appearance of façade walls.

Scheme of a ventilated facade with finishing

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Foam insulation

Polystyrene foam is a common method of thermal protection of facades. It is valued for its light weight, due to which the material does not put a load on the walls and foundation, and ease of installation. Another important advantage is the cost, which is two times lower than the cost of mineral wool. In addition to its advantages, polystyrene foam has one quality that is unsuitable for aerated concrete.

It is known that the vapor permeability of wall layers should increase from the inside to the outside. Conventional extruded foam does not allow steam to pass through (it has zero vapor permeability). If it is used to cover aerated concrete, moisture will accumulate in the wall, worsening its performance. The output will be a single-level device wooden frame, with a ventilation gap. Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam is carried out in the following order:

Facade preparation. If it was built from non-autoclaved aerated blocks, leveling the surface may be required. If the blocks are autoclaved, the surface is cleaned and primed.

Profile installation. The guides of the frame system are fixed on the façade.

Foam insulation

Installation of foam plastic. It is placed in the spaces between the frame elements, additionally secured with foam or glue.

Fixing the slabs. The foam sheathing is additionally reinforced with plastic dowels (metal dowels are not suitable, as they create cold bridges).

Decorative finishing. A primer is applied to the foam layer, a fiberglass mesh is fixed on top, then reinforcing glue is applied. After the glue has dried, finishing is done with decorative or warm plaster.

Insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is presented on the market in the form of slabs and rolls. It is actively used for insulating facade walls; basalt slabs are a special case of mineral wool, with similar qualities and performance characteristics. The widespread use of mineral wool is due to its many positive qualities:

Good vapor permeable properties.

High strength and immunity to biohazards. Materials are available in different hardness categories.

Fire resistance(when ignited, it does not burn, but melts).

Environmental friendliness. Mineral wool base – natural ingredients, not hazardous to human health.

Insulation with mineral wool

Installation of mineral wool on the facade is carried out in the following order.

Facade preparation. The wall is cleaned and leveled using cement mortar. Then the surface is primed and, if necessary, additionally leveled with vapor-permeable plaster.

Frame installation. The guides of the frame structure are fixed taking into account the size of the material used (roll or rectangular mats). Thanks to the frame, a ventilation gap is formed, sufficient for air circulation along the wall and steam removal.

Fastening mineral wool. It is carried out using glue applied to the slab material. Additional fixation is provided by plastic umbrella dowels.

Preparation for finishing. The mineral wool layer is reinforced with mesh and glue.

Finishing. The walls are coated with primer and plastered; The second common option is to cover it with putty and paint it. Not used for finishing acrylic plaster with moisture-proof properties; such a coating will cause condensation to form.

Video description

About whether it is necessary to insulate aerated concrete walls in the following video:

Expanded polystyrene

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is one of the types of foam plastic. Expanded polystyrene is produced by foaming the starting ingredients at high temperature and pressure. The method of obtaining determines physical properties material - it is mechanically strong, frost-resistant and can have different densities. The higher the density (and strength) of EPS, the higher the thermal conductivity. Vapor and air permeability are always at the same (low) level, and water absorption is minimal. The combination of qualities makes it possible to widely use EPS as an insulating facade material.

An undesirable property of polystyrene foam for aerated concrete walls - low vapor permeability, leading to the appearance of a thermos effect and a shift in the dew point - is avoided by installing a ventilation gap. As in the case of using polystyrene foam, the second option is possible - installing a powerful supply and exhaust ventilation. Installation of the insulating layer and decorative finishing carried out according to the same scheme as for polystyrene foam.

Expanded polystyrene boards

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

The material refers to sprayed substances; its application requires special equipment, which makes it not the most popular choice in private housing construction. After spraying, a homogeneous sealed layer with the following properties is formed on the wall:

PPU penetrates into the porous surface layer of the aerated concrete facade and forms with him strong connection, not deteriorating over time.

Thermal conductivity PPU, depending on density, occupies an intermediate value between polystyrene foam (minimum thermal conductivity coefficient) and mineral wool.

Required thickness polyurethane foam is determined by the grade of material and ranges from 5 to 10 cm(in the middle lane). The service life of such coating is at least 25 years.

Vapor permeability After hardening, polyurethane foam is comparable to the performance of reinforced concrete; the filtration of air and water vapor completely stops. To remove water vapor accumulating in the premises, an effective ventilation system is organized.

The principle of creating a polyurethane foam layer

If polyurethane foam (as well as polystyrene foam or EPS) is selected as the external insulating layer, a finish is selected for the premises, preventing steam from penetrating into aerated concrete. Suitable for this role cement plaster and alkyd paints, ceramic tiles and vinyl wallpaper are often used.

Methods of attaching insulation to the facade

In practice, three technologies are used to insulate external gas-block walls.

Curtain facade. It is a wooden or metal frame structure, the pitch of which is equal to the width of the heat-insulating material. The insulation is placed in the cells of the frame, and a decorative layer is mounted on top.

Wet facade . The aerated concrete surface is cleaned. The selected thermal insulation material is attached to the adhesive and additionally secured with dowels. Then the wall is plastered in 2 layers using a reinforcing mesh.

Wet façade with reinforcement. If as a final facing material brick or natural stone is chosen, hooks are used to fix the insulation. Then the surface is reinforced with mesh and plastered. After the plaster has dried, cladding is carried out; The method allows you to do without strengthening the walls and foundation and in many cases is preferable.

Video description

About insulating a house made of aerated concrete with mineral wool in the following video:

Cost of work on insulating the facade of an aerated concrete house

Construction organizations offer services for insulation and plastering of the facade of aerated concrete houses, the price of which is determined by several factors. The exact estimated cost of the work is determined during a direct inspection of the house. The cost of work is affected by the following parameters:

Home inspection(the service is in most cases free if a contract is concluded).

Geometric features walls, number of storeys and surface area.

Specialist consultation for choosing optimal thermal insulation.

Compilation estimates.

Purchase and delivery of materials.

Carrying out work on insulation and finishing of the facade.

Export construction garbage.

Video description

About mistakes when insulating aerated concrete in the following video:

The cost of some work on the preparation and insulation of the facade in Moscow and the region (per m2, excluding the cost of materials) is as follows:

Construction and dismantling of scaffolding: 50-55 rub.

Cleaning the façade surface: 90-110 rub.

Insulation of external walls with mineral wool: from 375 rub.

Installation of mineral wool on glue with doweling: from 425 rub.

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam: from 430 rub.

Installation of foam plastic with glue: from 400 rub.

Thermal insulation PPU: thickness up to 3 cm – 600 rub., thickness 5 cm – 750 rub.

Reinforcement of walls with fiberglass mesh: from 400 rub.

Installation of a reinforcing layer on top of the insulation: 380-420 rub.

Application decorative plaster: from 380-430 rub.

Finish color: from 400 rub.

Facade finishing with artificial stone: from 1250 rub.

Specialists will competently carry out all stages of insulation

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses made of aerated concrete blocks from construction companies presented at the exhibition of Low-Rise Country houses.

Conclusion

The vapor permeability of aerated concrete walls is valuable quality for a country house. Incorrectly installed facade insulation layer will not only not give the expected effect, but will also entail undesirable consequences, from the effect of a thermos to the appearance of mold. Contacting specialists will help you avoid annoying mistakes and make your home warm and comfortable.

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