Insulation of the ceiling under a cold roof. How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof? The need for insulation

The ceiling is the area in the room that is responsible for retaining heat. After all, heat rises upward, and if the ceiling is flawed and there are no obstacles in its path, then it escapes out. Insulating the attic space is possible, and now we will look at how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side different ways.

The need for insulation

Attic insulation in the private sector will be required in the following cases:

1. The house is being prepared for construction and the ceiling consists only of beams.
2. A residential building, but the ceiling needs insulation, as it lets cold into the rooms.
3. In the attic the temperature is much lower than in the living room, and to keep warm unheated room it didn’t go outside; it’s being insulated.

Types of insulation

When insulating the ceiling, the following materials are used:

• Sawdust.
• Expanded clay.
• Clay.
• Reed.
• Seaweed.
• Ecowool.
• Penoplex.
• Minvata.
• Polyurethane foam (foam).

Let's consider each material separately.

Ceiling insulation methods

What are the principles of attic insulation? It's no secret that the best insulation- this is air. Current thermal insulation materials contain air, which is trapped in the mold in various ways.

From the experience of the last century, the air that was locked in the attic was an excellent insulating “material”, as it changed depending on the seasons or weather conditions.

The attic floor was insulated with natural granular material. And all this helped maintain the temperature inside the heated room to +25°C. The positive thing is that these materials do not become damp in the attic due to regular ventilation.

Sawdust

The cracks in wood floor coat it with watery clay, pour sand on top, but if the clay cracks in some place, then sand gets into the cavity and the integrity of the coating will not change. Next, the main layer is sawdust (the thickness can be either 15–20 cm or 25–30 cm). Sawdust is a flammable material; to protect it from fire, a layer of waste slag is poured on top. Boards are laid on top of the slag to make it easier to walk on the floor.

To protect the sawdust from pests (mice), add a layer of slaked lime mixed with carbonite.

The floor must be protected from excess moisture. To do this, you should lay a waterproofing film on the wood floor with the possibility of allowing steam to pass through from the edge of the living space, or cover the floor with clay, mix sawdust and cement (10:1, where 10 parts sawdust, 1 part cement) and then add 1.5 parts water . Pour the resulting mixture onto the floor of the attic or between the floor beams of the subfloor. It is better to carry out this work in the spring, so that the cement and sawdust dry thoroughly in the summer. After drying, the sawdust does not collapse, but crunches a little underfoot.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a heavy substance; it is used to insulate ceilings made of concrete floors, because there is a possibility that a wooden ceiling may collapse under the weight of this insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling from the attic side begins with a vapor barrier film. It is necessary to cover it with an overlap, and seal the joints with tape. The overlap on the walls will be up to 50 cm. The wooden rafters and chimney are covered with the same film.

Next stage– the kneaded clay is placed. Next, on top - expanded clay.

In order for the thermal insulation material to be durable, you need to take small and large expanded clay (the small fraction will perfectly fill the voids, then the backfill will become homogeneous). In cold climates, expanded clay should be laid in a layer of at least 500 mm.

A sand-cement screed is laid on top of the expanded clay in a layer of 50 mm. The solution turns out to be quite thick. After drying, such an attic is used as a boiler room. It is fireproof and environmentally friendly.

Clay

Clay in its pure form is not used as insulation, because for efficient work thermal insulation, such a layer must be at least 50 cm. For this reason, clay is mixed with straw or sawdust.

Initially, a vapor barrier film is laid on the floor, preventing moisture from passing through (at that time, a sawdust-clay solution is being prepared). Then add 5 buckets of clay (1 bucket approximately 10 liters) to a barrel with a large capacity.

The clay, while in water, should almost completely dissolve. Gradually pour some of the mixture into the concrete mixer and add sawdust. When mixing the entire consistency, add water little by little.

The solution should be neither thick nor liquid. It must be applied to the ceiling in a layer of 20 cm. The entire surface is leveled and left to dry completely (if cracks appear, they are coated with clay again).

Reed

A good option would be to insulate the attic in a wooden house with reed mats. Such mats are tied together with wire or twine and laid on top of the floors. It is better if they are laid in two layers, thus preventing the cold from entering the premises of the house.

Seaweed

Algae is a natural insulation material. You can purchase them in coastal regions at affordable prices by ordering home delivery. Seaweed will not harbor rodents, it is anti-allergenic, does not burn or smoke.

Due to the fact that the algae is not afraid of moisture, it is not vapor-proofed. Ladders are laid from it on the ceiling, in a layer of 20 cm, and boards are installed on top.

Ecowool

Cellulose wool (ecowool) is an excellent natural substance that ensures heat preservation. Fireproof due to processing boric acid. It perfectly absorbs moisture, for this reason you should not lay a vapor barrier film. Cellulose wool is laid on both wooden and concrete floors.

Using a blowing machine, ecowool is blown into the cracks. The layer in such insulation comes out saturated and intact, with an air “prisoner” inside.

A layer of ecowool of 25 cm is sufficient, but in most cases the thermal insulation layer of the attic floor is 40–50 cm. When applying ecowool, at the end of the work, you can spray water to increase the process of formation of a solid layer.

Penoplex

Penoplex is expanded polystyrene with excellent strength properties. It is used for insulation of concrete floors, before the concrete floor is poured. TO wooden floors such material is not used, because it will not “breathe”, as a result of which fungi and mold will appear on the wood.

Before installation, the attic floor is leveled, and then a vapor barrier material is laid. Next, the slabs are laid out at intervals, and the surface is secured with dowels with a cap. Fill the joints with polyurethane foam, and when it dries, fill it with sand-cement screed in a layer of 5 cm.

Minvata

The most popular insulation material is mineral wool. It is produced in rolls and in rigid slabs.

Between wooden beams a vapor barrier material is laid (since mineral wool is incompatible with moisture). The film is spread with an overlap, gluing the joints with tape.

On the side of the walls, an allowance of 150–250 mm is made. Then rolls of cotton wool 200–250 mm thick are placed. The rolls should fit into the space with little effort, cut with a margin of 20 mm (more than the distance of the beams). Then the mineral wool is covered with wooden boards (with a gap of 3 mm between the board and the wool).

If the floor is concrete, then the concrete floors are leveled, then covered with a vapor barrier film, and tiled mineral wool is laid on top of it in a spaced pattern. Then the flooring is made of wood, plywood or other materials.

You should not screed on mineral wool, since concrete has low vapor permeability, which will violate the main rules of thermal insulation.

Polyurethane foam (foam)

Polyurethane foam is a non-flammable insulating material, neutral for insects and microorganisms, has good sound-proofing and waterproofing properties, tolerates temperature changes well, with no cold bridges.

The material is sprayed under high pressure. So, it gets into all the cracks, enveloping all protruding elements. The layer of such material is 100–120 mm.

The process of insulating an attic in a private house is not difficult; the main thing is to figure out what type of insulation material is most suitable in your case.

Video

You can learn more about how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side by watching the video:

Scheme

The schemes we propose will help you to efficiently insulate the ceiling:

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How and what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a private house

In order to retain heat in the room, thermal insulation measures are necessary. 15% of all heat loss occurs through the ceiling. Before insulating your ceiling in a private house with your own hands, you need to choose the material wisely and become familiar with the technology for performing the work. Activities can be carried out in several ways, it all depends on the type of insulated ceiling.

Methods of performing work

Ceiling insulation technology suggests the existence of only two installation options:

• outside the premises;
• from inside the room.

When choosing between them, several factors are taken into account. The article is about holding events in a private house; it is worth remembering that insulation in an apartment is carried out according to the same principle, but the work can only be done from below, since insulation from above affects the upper apartment or attic - the common area of ​​the house.

External ceiling insulation scheme

Most often, in apartment buildings, insulation is required to increase sound insulation interfloor ceilings or thermal insulation of the ceiling of the last floor.

In a private home, the choice of method is limited only by the decision of the home owner. Carrying out measures for interfloor ceilings (as sound insulation) is not required; thermal protection of the ceiling of the last floor is carried out if there is unheated attic. It is worth noting that a smart option is to insulate the ceiling from the outside, on the cold air side. This has the following advantages:

Step by step process ceiling insulation with mineral wool

• in addition to the room, the floor structure is insulated, which increases its service life;
• Insulating the ceiling from the attic does not reduce the height of the room top floor;
• carrying out the work does not require serious effort (when fastening the insulation from below, you must constantly keep your head up and use a stepladder or other means of providing access);
• at in different ways thermal insulation measures, the location of the dew point (the point of condensation) changes when insulating from the side warm air it gets into the thickness of the floor pie, which can cause problems in the future;
• the method does not affect the interior decoration of the premises; if in the future it is necessary to replace the insulation, the work can be carried out quickly and without additional financial costs.

If necessary, you can insulate the ceiling from the inside.

Insulation from the attic

Thermal protection from cold air is best done with materials that have high density and rigidity. The attic is a space in which it is necessary to provide access for human passage. If you lay a compressible, weak material on top of the attic floor, it may wrinkle, deform or collapse and cease to perform its functions. When choosing insulation for this method, strength is as important as thermal conductivity.

Ceiling insulation scheme in the attic

Before insulating the ceiling in a private house, you need to familiarize yourself with the procedure for performing the work:

1. The attic space is cleared of debris and dirt. The insulation must lie on a clean and level base.
2. The space is measured and the required amount of thermal insulation material is calculated.
3. Depending on the selected material, a vapor barrier layer is provided. It must be laid on the warm air side relative to the heat insulator. Not all materials require vapor barrier; if the insulation is resistant to moisture and has a low moisture absorption coefficient, no additional measures are required.
4. Laying is carried out using two methods, the choice between which depends on the strength of the purchased material. If thermal protection is carried out with high-strength insulation, it can be laid under a cement-sand screed. To increase the reliability of the structure, the screed is taken to be at least 2 cm thick and additionally reinforced with wire reinforcement with a diameter of 3-4 mm. If the strength of the heat insulator is not high enough, installation is carried out between the joists. Availability wooden frame allows you to remove the load on the floor of the room from the insulation and transfer it through the bars to the ceiling.
5. After installing the heat-insulating layer, waterproofing is provided. It will prevent the insulation from getting wet on the outside. Water in the attic can appear due to roof leaks or liquid spills; waterproofing in case of unforeseen situations protects the thermal insulation layer from loss of performance characteristics. The simplest material for waterproofing is polyethylene film.
6. The next stage is installation of the floor pie.

Insulation from the inside

Before insulating the ceiling, choose enough lightweight material. Unlike installing heat protection from the outside, insulating the ceiling from the inside does not require the use of durable heat insulators. In this case, they try to choose the insulation that will adhere securely to a horizontal surface. The smaller the layer, the easier it is to install.

An example of correct and incorrect installation of insulation

To understand how to properly insulate the ceiling in this case, you need to familiarize yourself with the work procedure:

1. As with the previous method, first the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Calculate the required amount of material.
2. Next, installation of a wooden or metal frame is required. If, when installing from the outside, you can lay it without additional bars or boards, then when installing from below, it is better to ensure reliable fastening. The ceiling structure is subsequently attached to the frame. Wooden boards or bars or an aluminum ceiling profile are used as frame elements.
3. The insulation is placed between the guides. The fastening can be adhesive to the ceiling or using fasteners to the frame. Both of these options are often used together.
4. The final stage is installation of the ceiling.

Insulation materials

The choice of thermal insulation layer depends on the method of insulation and the financial capabilities of the home owner. To answer the question of what is the best way to insulate a ceiling, you need to distribute the materials that can be used for each case.

For the method from above use:

• hard mineral wool slabs (more details in the article “Insulating your ceiling in a private house with mineral wool”);
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polystyrene foam of high strength grades, laid between joists or under reinforced screed;
• polyurethane foam (only between the joists);
• sawdust;
• expanded clay

The last two options are suitable for those who care about the environmental component of construction. Expanded clay and sawdust are an inexpensive and natural option for thermal insulation.

When insulating the ceiling from the room side, you can use:

• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool in mats;
• polyurethane foam.

These materials are light in weight and can be fixed without problems. Before you properly insulate the ceiling, you need to prepare.

Study the advantages and disadvantages of each material and make right choice. A careful approach will allow you to perform insulation for many years.

domzastroika.ru

Insulating the ceiling in a house with a cold roof

Insulation of the ceiling in a house with cold roof

Builders often charge a lot of money for roof insulation work. This is motivated by the fact that this is labor-intensive work that is carried out by weight. To save money, insulation mansard roof wooden house you can do it yourself. No special qualifications are needed here, no special equipment is required. And it doesn’t matter if your roof is made of ondulin, metal tiles or slate, gable or broken construction. However, modern insulating materials and proven technology for insulating a cold roof have many nuances that you need to know.

Make the roof warm and the premises of a private wooden house suitable for year-round residence, not difficult. The main thing is to create good conditions for maintaining heat inside the attic. How to insulate a roof and what materials to use will be discussed in this article. Insulation issues can be addressed both during the construction of the house and after, by reconstructing the upper floor.

Features of a cold roof

In accordance with the laws of physics and convection processes, warm air masses rise upward. If there is a cold roof on a wooden house, all the heat will go outside. Such heat loss forces additional heating of rooms in the house, wasting electricity or fuel. Therefore, high-quality insulation of ceilings is the most important task for heat conservation, rational use of coolants and creating a microclimate in the house.

Insulation mansard roof

Cold is the design of a gable or sloping roof that does not have a multilayer structure. Such inexpensive and simple roofs lack waterproofing, vapor barrier and thermal insulation.

Insulation of a cold roof

The design diagram of a gable cold roof is very simple - as a rule, a floor made of boards is laid on the wooden floor beams, and the roof is made of slate or metal tiles, without any insulators. In order to properly insulate a cold roof, you need to know what requirements apply to the design of the upper floor ceiling and attic floors. You should also choose the right insulation material.

Gable roof rafter diagram

Requirements for roof slabs

When starting to insulate a roof made of ondulin, slate or metal tiles, broken or hip, you should know what building codes and rules exist for the ceilings of a private wooden house. In order not to violate the basic parameters that the attic design must meet, thermal insulation of the ceiling and insulation of the attic roof from the inside should be carried out taking into account the basic requirements. For attic floors and ceilings, this is strength and compliance with fire safety standards.

Roofing pie

The strength of the attic floors must correspond to the nature of the roof space. If there is an attic in the attic, then the floors must support the weight of the floors, furniture and people in it. Floor beams must not bend, and the permissible load cannot exceed 100 kg per square meter.

Stress on rafter system gable roof

The second basic requirement is fire safety, which is especially important for a wooden house. All structural elements must be treated with special fire retardant compounds.

Gable roof rafter system

Types of heat-insulating materials

To efficiently insulate the structure of a wooden ceiling and the entire metal roof, a variety of heat insulators are used.

Types of insulation

Main types:

• polystyrene foam and penoplex;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• glass wool;
• foamed polyurethane;

Each of the listed insulation materials has its own pros and cons. The choice of insulation for the ceiling and for metal tiles depends on a variety of factors. Therefore, you should familiarize yourself with each type of heat insulator in more detail in order to understand the best way to insulate the ceiling and the entire upper floor.

Insulation of an attic roof made of metal tiles

Budget insulation options

In addition to the listed thermal insulation materials, there are inexpensive bulk insulation materials. These materials are also used to insulate the attic roof. Bulk heat insulators include:

• sawdust and shavings;
• expanded clay;
• slag;
• ecowool.

To through the cracks wooden floor If any crumbs of insulation do not spill out, you can lay polyethylene film.

Ecowool insulation

But remember that there will be no vapor barrier, since polyethylene does not allow moisture to pass through, which can condense in the room on the top floor. Backfill insulation requires calculations of the strength of the floors. It is necessary to make sure that the beams can withstand the considerable weight of bulk insulation, as well as slate or metal tiles.

External ceiling insulation with expanded clay

Another economical option ceiling insulation - laying corrugated cardboard. Sheets of material are attached with self-tapping screws or construction staples to the attic floor. Joints and seams are sealed with polyurethane foam. Electrical wiring is stored in corrugated channels, protecting wooden structures from fire.

Roof insulation with corrugated cardboard

General scheme of ceiling insulation

Roof and ceiling structures are the most vulnerable elements to heat loss in a home. They account for from 15 to 40 percent of the total heat transfer of the house, regardless of the roofing material - metal tiles or slate. In addition, to create a comfortable climate in the house, a vapor barrier must be made to protect the insulation from fumes, and the ceiling and attic floor must also be waterproofed.

Scheme of vapor barrier, waterproofing and roof insulation

It is recommended to carry out the insulation of a wooden house in a comprehensive manner, arranging thermal insulation of the roof from the inside and the ceiling at the same time. This will give savings insulation material, since two ten-centimeter layers of heat insulation with an air gap attic space replace a layer of the same insulation 25-30 cm thick. This saves about forty percent of thermal insulation. External insulation of the ceiling with simultaneous thermal insulation of the roof from the attic will give a good effect and will avoid dampening of the lower rooms. Such thermal insulation can be carried out without dismantling the metal roof and the ceiling of the upper floor.

Reflective attic roof insulation

Features of ceiling insulation

They consist in the fact that when installing thermal insulation, there is no way to organize the removal of condensate, which is formed due to the difference in temperatures of the attic and lower rooms. In addition, depending on the time of year, there is a change in warm and cold sides. Therefore, when installing thermal insulation for a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to ensure the complete absence of condensation on the insulation.

Ceiling insulation scheme in a wooden house

You can prevent the formation of condensation by laying a special vapor barrier - a film material that allows moisture to pass in one direction.

It should be laid in such a way that there is a gap between the insulating material and the film.

It should be noted that when insulating a ceiling, the correct use of a separation film is of great importance. Below we will look at their varieties.

Ceiling insulation

Membranes and separation films

Modern technologies make it possible to use an increasingly diverse range of materials that allow water, steam and other substances to pass through or repel. For years, proven glassine, roofing felt and tar, used on slate roofs or metal tile roofs, fade into the background and are rarely used. Technological membrane-type insulating films are much lighter, more convenient to use and, importantly, perform their function more specifically and efficiently. In addition, they are reliable, strong and durable, and their thickness is much smaller. The correct scheme for their use is important.

Superdiffusion membrane for pitched roofs

Integrated insulating materials can be divided into two groups.

1) Vapor barrier. For this purpose, so-called vapor barriers are used - thin-layer materials that do not allow evaporation to pass through. In turn, they can be:

• film;
• foil;
• foil with capillary substrate (folgoizol).

The vapor barrier protects the roof insulation

2) Waterproofing. It is carried out using materials that do not allow moisture and any liquids to pass through, called membranes. Are divided into:

• simple film with one layer;
• micro-perforated with steam penetration in both directions;
• superdiffusive, with vapor permeation in one direction.

Roof waterproofing

Vapor barrier is best achieved using film polypropylene materials, the thickness of which is from 55 microns. Polyethylene films are poorly suited for protection against evaporation, since, regardless of the thickness, they allow air to pass through due to their structural features.

PVC film is sensitive to temperature changes and changes in humidity; over time, it may not perform its role well, and even crack.

For a foil vapor barrier, polyethylene can be used as a base, since the foil prevents the penetration of vapors.

Attaching a foil vapor barrier

Waterproofing can be done with a simple polyethylene film.

But polyethylene is suitable only in heated houses with slate or metal roofing.

When insulating the ceiling of a cold roof, you need a film with micro-perforation and a three-layer reinforced coating. The reinforcing layer will prevent the film from sagging and will provide a ventilation gap.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold roof

Thus, having studied the properties of insulating materials and the features of their use, we can come to the conclusion that waterproofing and thermal insulation of the cold ceiling of a house on our own is a completely feasible task.

Proper insulation of the attic and attic ceiling

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How to insulate the ceiling and attic floor

• What is the best way to insulate a ceiling?
• Insulation of concrete floors
• Conclusion

In a heated private house a large number of heat will escape through the roof if measures are not taken and the ceiling of the upper floor is not properly insulated. The physics of the process is known: heated and lighter air is forced into the upper zone of the room, bordering the cold attic, where it gives off heat to the uninsulated ceiling. To prevent this from happening, a barrier in the form of a layer of thermal insulation must be placed in the path of the heat flow. This material will discuss how to properly insulate a ceiling or attic floor with your own hands and the best way to insulate this horizontal structure.

What is the best way to insulate a ceiling?

When choosing insulation for a ceiling located under a cold roof, you should take into account regulatory fire safety requirements. The fact is that for all types of floors these requirements are quite stringent, which makes it impossible to use combustible materials for thermal insulation. To put it briefly and in simple words, the insulation layer should not reduce the standard fire resistance of the structure. That is, ceilings under a cold attic, hemmed to wooden beams, as well as interfloor wooden floors and the same ceilings above the basement cannot be insulated with flammable materials.

For reference. Wooden floor beams and others bearing structures according to requirements regulatory documents must be impregnated with a special fire-fighting compound, and the spaces between them must be filled with non-combustible materials.

Accordingly, the answer to the frequently asked question, whether it is possible to insulate the ceiling with foam plastic from the inside over wooden beams, is quite clear - it is not possible. This also applies to the use of extruded polystyrene foam and penoplex. It turns out that the list of insulation materials suitable for thermal insulation wooden structures, is quite limited:

• non-flammable basalt (stone) wool, sold in slabs and rolls;
• bulk fire-resistant insulation – expanded clay, perlite;
• traditional folk material - sawdust mixed with clay.

Note. Polyurethane foam coating applied by spraying also resists open fire well. But the resistance time is limited; with prolonged exposure, the insulation changes its structure and collapses.

Mineral wool made from fiberglass is not suitable, as it can withstand temperatures no higher than 200 °C. The same applies to actively advertised ecowool. Although it does not burn, ecowool cannot serve as both ceiling insulation and a fire barrier. Judging by the degree of popularity among homeowners, the best insulation option in this case is basalt mineral wool. The other listed materials have too high thermal conductivity in comparison.

Of course, you can violate fire safety requirements and insulate your private home with anything; there are no sanctions for this. But it should be remembered that as a result of such actions, the danger of rapid collapse of the ceilings in a fire increases, which leads to very negative consequences.

Another thing is the insulation of concrete floors, which themselves have a high degree of fire resistance. Here it is possible to use any polymer insulation - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and penoplex. At the same time, it is strongly recommended to insulate the ceiling not from the inside, but from the outside; such a solution will be the most correct in all respects.

Insulation of wooden floors

As a rule, the ceiling located under a cold roof is insulated from the attic side. To do this, the first step is to hem the ceilings from below so that mineral wool or expanded clay can be safely laid between the beams. The filing will serve as a support for it, which means it must be designed for the appropriate load. This is especially true for expanded clay or clay with sawdust, whose weight is quite significant.

Second important stage– laying a vapor barrier layer. It is well known that mineral wool absorbs moisture well, so do-it-yourself attic insulation should include a protective layer of film and an air gap for ventilation. Due to this, water vapor from living quarters will not get inside the insulation, and those that condense on the vapor barrier will erode through the air gap. General scheme The installation of a thermal insulation layer on the ceiling under the roof is shown in the figure:

The film sheets should be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm on each other, after which the joint is carefully taped with construction tape. The organization of the air opening is carried out by installing an internal sheathing of bars up to 50 mm wide, to which it is nailed finishing coat ceilings. On the roof side, the insulation is covered with a diffusion membrane, which protects from wind and water droplets, but allows steam to pass through.

Advice. A vapor barrier can be installed using thin foil insulation - isolon or penofol. Then the canvases are laid end to end, and the seams are sealed with a special aluminum tape.

The moisture that forms in the thickness of the material due to the occurrence of a dew point will be removed using ventilation from the attic, so that the thermal insulation will work correctly and last for a long time. It should be noted that often the height of the beams is not enough to lay insulation of the calculated thickness between them. That is why the diagram below with suspended ceilings shows the laying of mineral wool in 2 layers: one between the beams, the other on top of them. Expanded clay is simply poured into the openings on top of the vapor barrier.

Note. The attic ceiling, that is, its horizontal part, is insulated in the same way. The composition of the heat-insulating “pie” is the same as for the ceiling, the thickness of the insulation is the same as on the walls of the attic.

Installation of ceiling insulation can be done in the reverse order - from below, from the side of the room. There is not much difference, only it is not so convenient to carry out the work, and even the vapor barrier must be done with an outlet of 15-20 cm on the walls, otherwise moisture will be able to penetrate along the edges of the “pie”. This is especially true for wet areas, such as the bathroom. More details on this topic are described in the video:

As for the insulation of interfloor wooden floors, it often makes no sense to do it. It appears only when you plan to isolate the second floor from the first and heat them separately in order to save money.

In such a situation, the insulation between floors will have to be protected from vapors on both sides, as shown in the diagram:

Insulation of concrete floors

It is best to insulate the concrete ceiling of the upper floor from the outside, but this is convenient to do during the construction process. After all, you need to lay on top of the insulation roof covering, protecting the house from precipitation. The sequence of work is as follows:

• cleaning and leveling concrete surface;
• organization of inclined surfaces for water drainage using a monolithic screed;
• laying waterproofing with outlet along the edges;
• laying insulation in 1 or 2 layers;
• installation of cement-sand screed up to 5 cm thick;
• spreading and sealing the roof covering.

"Pie" proper insulation concrete ceiling outside is shown in the diagram:

If the roofing covering is already available, then it is not practical to open it to organize thermal insulation; instead, you can insulate the ceiling from the inside. The easiest way for this purpose is to take polystyrene foam or penoplex, which do not need to be protected from moisture. Plates of material are attached to the concrete surface in 2 ways:

• first, wooden logs are installed, insulation is inserted between them, and the gaps are sealed with foam;
• Penoplex slabs are attached directly to the ceiling using umbrella-shaped dowels.

Advice. When installing joists or fastening polystyrene foam, be careful when drilling holes so that the dowel does not fall into the void.

When there are logs, it is convenient to install any finishing coating. At the same time, installing insulation on dowels is practiced when installing suspended ceilings. When mineral wool is used as an insulator, the organization of a vapor barrier and an air gap is mandatory, so you can’t do without logs and counter-lattice.

Concrete floor above the unheated basement also needs insulation, since in this situation a lot of heat will escape through the floors of the first floor. There are 2 options: insulate the basement ceiling or the floors on the first floor.

The choice often falls on the second option, since it is more convenient to insulate the floors of the first floor. There are also two methods of thermal insulation: on joists and under screed, both of them are reflected in the diagrams:

Conclusion

The issue of insulating ceilings and attic floors is not simple and requires a thorough approach. Particular attention should be paid to the installation of hydro- and vapor barriers, since the service life of the insulation depends on the tightness of these layers. Also, you should not skimp on its thickness, otherwise you will spend a lot of time and effort, and the result will remain far from expected.

Uninsulated pitched roof- historically the most common type of low-rise construction in Europe. Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof has always been used in countries with cold winters. Unlike wooden, brick and adobe walls, which were considered sufficient protection from cold and uninvited guests, the ceilings were covered with low-density natural materials, which created a barrier to the leakage of warm air into the attic. Since then, technology has revolutionized our understanding of housing construction, but the scheme with a cold under-roof space remains very popular. We analyzed current technologies and prepared in this review answers to the most common questions regarding this topic.

They say it's right the question asked contains 50% of the answer. Knowing the physics of the processes occurring in the cold under-roof space, it is possible to identify the most important criteria for choosing thermal insulation and evaluate all technologies based on them. The attic in buildings of this type is traditionally designed taking into account the possibility of cold ventilation. In both summer and winter, air flows are directed upward.

To support this movement, two natural outlets are provided: for the flow going between the tiles and the waterproofing, the joint between the membranes opens under the roof ridge, and for the heat rising from the ceiling, there are dormer windows. Our ancestors experimentally found out that it is impossible to hermetically seal a space that is not heated. Excess moisture should evaporate freely from all house structures.

It is worth noting that all traditional Construction Materials have two characteristic properties: high vapor permeability and increased capillary activity. The latter means that moisture moves inside the structure in a certain direction due to surface tension forces. However, since then a lot of materials have appeared that are completely different in physical properties on clay, brick and wood. It is logical that the issue of insulation can be resolved differently for them.

So, in order to figure out how to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof, let’s consider the basic technologies from the point of view of vapor permeability and capillary activity:

• Vapor-permeable backfills. From sawdust, peat, pine needles, sand, straw, used for centuries - to expanded clay granulate, which appeared in the 20th century and more modern ecowool
• Vapor-permeable fiber materials.
• Slab heat insulators with low or zero moisture saturation. These are expanded polystyrene (foam plastic and EPS), as well as slab foam glass.
• Hydrophobic seamless (solid) insulation. These include sprayed polyurethane foam.

Taking into account the design features of ceilings is equally important for any insulation technology. The force elements that take up bending loads are:

• Wooden beams. In the vast majority of low-rise private residential buildings.
• Concrete plates. In second place in popularity after wooden beams.
• Steel trusses. Used relatively rarely. However, due to the development of modular construction from thin-walled profiles, the popularity of this flooring option is growing.

In the case of beams and trusses, the thermal insulation layer can be located in one of four possible positions: from inside the room on the false ceiling, from the attic side on the flooring, between the beams (trusses) on top of the false ceiling, or between them, but below the flooring.

The use of bulk insulation in a house with a cold roof

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof if you have access to free or cheap natural raw materials such as pine needles or peat, or have excess expanded clay or sawdust left over from production or construction? Of course, you should take advantage of this life bonus. Despite the fact that these options are outdated and require very large backfill thicknesses, nothing prevents you from using this method when it comes to a cold attic.

In this case, even if the profile of the floor beams is not enough to form “pockets” 30–40 cm deep, they can be expanded with wooden planks. After all, reducing the space in the non-residential under-roof space does not affect anything.

It is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier film under the backfill, but it is not recommended to cover it with anything on top. It is better to ensure high-quality roof waterproofing. The backfill must be well ventilated.

Features of the use of thermal insulation wool

Over the past year and a half, new fiber insulation materials have begun to be introduced into practice, in particular, construction synthetic winterizer. In this regard, today it is already important to distinguish a whole group of thermal insulators, combining mineral wool, padding polyester and others synthetic materials, according to such key characteristics as high vapor permeability and low capillary activity.

Why construction wool is far from The best decision for internal insulation of the attic floor? The fact is that when they cover the surface from the side of the room, the dew point shifts in the direction of the finishing ceiling covering. The condensation begins to take over the thermal insulation.

Vapor barrier membrane does not solve moisture problems mineral wool or padding polyester, if the other side of the mats does not provide effective ventilation. Therefore, it is better to use materials of this type from the attic side with good natural air exchange.

Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool, glass wool or building synthetic padding from the attic side is carried out with the obligatory observance of the sequence of layers:

1. Vapor barrier membrane. It is laid on top of the rigid base of the floor if the flooring is made on the beams, or mounted on the lower ends of the beams if the insulation is supposed to be installed between them.
2. Thermal insulation.
3. Waterproofing layer. If the roof has its own high-quality waterproofing, it can be limited to a wind barrier.

Ventilation gaps between these three layers are not needed. It is important to maintain only free access of air to the surface of the windproofing or waterproofing.

Communications Contact

What to do if a ventilation pipeline or chimney passes through a ceiling made of wooden beams? If a beam is located on the path of a vertically oriented highway, it is cut, and the load is transferred by transverse elements to adjacent beams. In this case, the distance from the outer surface to the strapping of jumpers must be at least 100 mm.

The chimney is lined with expanded polystyrene slabs 40 - 50 mm thick, not only in the intersection area, but also along the entire length of the structure exiting the roof. The membranes are folded up (the vapor barrier is down, the water barrier is up) and covered with bitumen tape for a tight fit to the polystyrene foam sleeve of the pipe. The gate areas are then crimped with a frame made of wooden blocks using dowels passing into the walls of the chimney.

The same should be done with ventilation ducts, with one exception: in most cases they are not sleeved. Electrical cables they are attracted by clamps to the beams, and in places where they pass through the membranes, the places where the films are folded are sealed with foil tape and fixed with plastic clamps.

Vapor-tight board materials for insulating attic floors

If we line the rough ceiling from below with vapor-proof slabs, then four issues disappear at once: moisture condensation in the thickness of the insulation, protecting it with high-diffusion membranes, ensuring ventilation and protection from above from moisture from the roof or dew falling from the air of the attic space.

On the other hand, the problem arises of protecting wooden beams from waterlogging at points of contact with vapor-tight insulation. Therefore, we will consider the specifics of using extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and foam glass, depending on the load-bearing structure of the floors.

Video: Review of popular floor insulation materials

Concrete slabs or steel trusses

Insulation of EPS from the inside requires sealing of joints

Concrete is the simplest case. EPS is mounted to it with glue from below or from above, from the side of the cold attic. There is no need to take any additional measures to ensure insulation or safety of materials. The only thing, as in all other cases, is to take care of sealing the joints between the slabs and where the ceiling meets the walls. If the walls in the room are lined insulating material from the inside, you should also choose the internal placement of insulation on the ceiling to eliminate possible cold bridges. With external wall insulation, the EPS ceiling is insulated both from above and from below, depending on the ease of installation, the method of using the attic space and other minor factors.

Foam plastic and foam glass are best used for outdoor work. Even foam brands high density(PSB-S 35 and PSB-S 50) are distinguished by the presence of pores, which, on the one hand, leads to the emission of a small amount of styrene, on the other, to some moisture saturation. Therefore, slabs of this material are mounted with glue from the attic side, and covered on top waterproofing film, laid overlapping with sealing of joints.

Ceiling insulation with foam glass is carried out from the attic side

Insulation of ceilings with cold attics with foam glass is also carried out with outside, but for other reasons. Firstly, these slabs are much heavier, and secondly, to seal the joints between them it is more convenient and cheaper to use bitumen mastic which is not suitable for interior works for environmental reasons.

All of the above also applies to the insulation of floors with these materials, which have a power basis in the form steel structures with flooring made of boards or OSB boards.

Wooden beams

The inside has decoratively painted beams, and a layer of insulation on the attic side

Thermal insulation in beam floors is usually installed in caissons between the beams. If you do not ensure tight contact of EPS (using foam adhesive) or polystyrene foam with wood and do not allow the beams to evaporate excess moisture, this will lead to their rapid waterlogging. Therefore, it is imperative to install a vapor barrier membrane on the side of the room, and on the side of the cold attic, install a water barrier that allows moisture to pass in the direction from bottom to top. At the same time, the space above the hydrobarrier must be free for effective ventilation. No flooring in the attic this method It is unacceptable to carry out insulation. Therefore, this situation is not applicable if the attic is intended to be used for household needs.

If the design of the room allows for the appearance of open ceiling beams, it is more advisable to first install the plank flooring on top of the wooden floor, and then install a layer of slab insulation on top of it. Then the bottom of the board between the beams can be covered with OSB, plywood or plasterboard, followed by putty and painting. This approach combines modern energy efficiency requirements with Provence style and other country-inspired design trends.

At the same time, the tree remains open on three sides, which significantly increases its service life.

Polyurethane foam insulation

For environmental reasons, the technology is recommended for outdoor use only. If you are insulating a floor with wooden beams, it is best to install a flooring on top of them and spray polyurethane foam on this surface. “Wrapping” a tree in a blanket made of polyurethane foam is not the best good idea, as is the case with vapor-tight boards. But the advantages of polyurethane foam are undeniable: the material is a champion in energy efficiency.

How to Determine the Required Ceiling Insulation Thickness

All you need to do is determine the desired indoor temperature and make a list of all the construction materials in your home, indicating their thickness. Next, open any arbitrary online calculator for thermal construction calculations and fill in your data and region of residence in the input field. However, the received recommendation should not be taken as dogma. Reducing the layer thickness compared to the recommended one is quite acceptable. You just need to be aware that saving on thermal insulation is just a deferment on payments that will certainly occur in the form of excessive energy consumption for heating and air conditioning.

Video: theory and practice of floor insulation from the cold core side

Summary

In every situation, you should strive to use all its advantages. Cold under-roof space means intensive ventilation ceiling from the outside. Therefore, the use of vapor-permeable insulating materials from the attic side should be considered one of the most acceptable, especially if the floors are made of wooden beams.

As you know, according to the laws of convection, heat always tends to rise to the top. And, if the roof in your house does not have a sufficient level of thermal insulation, then the heat simply goes outside. This is called heat loss. Therefore, in order to avoid heat loss and ensure maximum efficiency in heating any home, you need to know how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof.

High-quality roof insulation is a very important task, which is best solved at the stage of building a house. Correctly performed insulation process:

• Forms the microclimate of the building;
• Protects the structure from damage;
• Retains about 30% heat!

We will tell you what roof insulation methods are available that will allow you to quickly, efficiently and inexpensively insulate the ceiling under a cold roof. We will also tell you in detail about how to insulate a ceiling quickly and cheaply.

Features of a “warm” roof

A warm roof is achieved by insulating the slope. Its arrangement is carried out if the attic space is used as a residential space. In this case, a heating system is organized on this floor, and a warm roof prevents heat loss.

Features of a “cold roof”

The roof was called a cold roof because it does not have the structure of the so-called “roofing pie” - when there are several layers of insulation, vapor barrier material and other layers. This is the simplest roofing design, and also the most affordable. It is very easy to install and maintain, and this roof is also extremely reliable. The construction of such a roof is elementary. It is a rafter system, on top of which a layer of insulation and roofing material is laid. The plank floor of the attic is laid on the ceilings.

This type of roofing is excellent for arranging residential or commercial premises underneath, and does not require expensive roofing materials. However, if there is a need for insulation similar design, then you should take care of:

• High-quality waterproofing;
• Reliable basis;
• Condensate collection tanks.

Structural insulation can be done in two ways:

1. It is easier to do the work from the attic side; this method of insulation does not affect the size of the room.
2. Insulation from the side of the room.

How to insulate an attic: insulate it correctly

A cold roof is the most simple option for insulation. The simplest and most obvious solution is to use bulk insulation. The following may be suitable for these purposes:

• Expanded clay;
• Mineral wool;
• Simple sawdust;
• Ecowool;
• Expanded polystyrene;
• Polyurethane foam.

Comparative characteristics that will help you decide on the choice of material are given in the table.

To avoid shedding of this material, it is better to place a simple polyethylene film under it on the plank floor. It will also serve as a vapor barrier layer. Or use a simpler and a budget option- simple corrugated cardboard. It can be secured to the attic floor using staples.

After it has been laid, all cracks and gaps between the joints need to be sealed, for which simple construction foam is perfect. If wiring runs along the floor, it must be wrapped in a special corrugated hose, ensuring the maximum level of electrical and fire safety.

Interesting: previously, hay and straw were used as bulk insulation. There is no particular reason to neglect the old-fashioned methods even now - it is a very cheap, and, most importantly, environmentally friendly material.

It is generally accepted that the most effective thermal insulation can be ensured by a layer of bulk insulation of at least 12-15 centimeters. This is for winters of average “severity”. For regions with colder winters, the insulation layer can be from 20 to 30 centimeters.

Insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a natural material. It is obtained from clay shale by firing. It consists of granules or grains of different fractions.

It has properties useful for insulating residential premises: light weight, environmentally friendly, not afraid of temperature changes and high humidity, when heated, does not emit toxic substances and is odorless, non-flammable, has high thermal insulation characteristics. The advantages include the absence of dust and long term operation.

Work technology:

1. Remove all dirt and foreign objects.
2. A vapor barrier film is laid on the attic covering. Secure it with a stapler or carpenter's tape. For reliable insulation, the pieces of film are laid out overlapping and overlapped by at least 40 cm onto the chimney pipe and the roof rafter system.

Depending on the fraction, the density and strength characteristics of the material change. For insulation, a grain size of 4-10 mm is most often used. Cover the attic with a layer of insulation 15 to 30 cm thick. If the surface of the attic floor is to be covered with a wooden covering, expanded clay is poured between the joists.

The table shows the dependence of the properties of the material on the size of the fraction.

The high insulating characteristics of expanded clay are used when it is necessary to insulate the chimney from the wooden covering of the attic. To do this, a special metal box is made around the chimney.

Ecowool

Ecowool is not widely used as heat-insulating material for residential premises. Nevertheless, it is used for insulation. Below are comparative characteristics of ecowool and expanded clay, which allow you to evaluate the materials.

Ecowool contains small cellulose fibers. Installation is carried out using dry and wet methods.

1. The dry application method involves laying ecowool between the attic joists and then compacting it. In this case, there is no need to lay plastic film.
2. With the wet method, a cellulose mixture with glue is applied to the surface of the attic using special equipment under pressure. The result is a continuous coating of ecowool with air. The layer height can be from 15 to 30 cm depending on the region.

When applying, it is worth considering that the material decreases in volume over time; application should be done in a slightly larger layer. The wet method provides greater thermal insulation due to the formation of a hard crust after a few weeks.

Advantages of insulation using ecowool:

1. The low weight allows installation to be carried out at any thickness; it does not create additional load on attic floor even in a compacted state.
2. Thanks to the loose structure, air gaps acquire additional heat-insulating characteristics.
3. Ecowool is environmentally friendly and tolerates temperature changes well.
4. It has a long service life and does not lose its insulating properties over time.
5. Covered with eco-wool surfaces do not grow mold and promote the proliferation of microflora.
6. For insulation, ecowool is used, specially treated with fire retardants, which does not support combustion and has a tendency to self-extinguish. Does not produce smoke or hazardous products for breathing.
7. The special structure of the insulation allows you to create a continuous breathable coating that does not retain moisture.

When using ecowool, the payback period for such insulation is 2 - 3 years.

We use mineral wool

The main disadvantage of mineral wool is the presence of formaldehyde resin in its composition. Over time, the material releases components harmful to health.

Depending on the material used for the manufacture of mineral wool, the following types are divided:

Slag

For the production of slag wool, waste from blast furnace production is used.

This material is unsuitable for insulating a residential building. This is explained by the following characteristics:

• Hygroscopicity - absorption of moisture during operation, which negatively affects the thermal insulation characteristics.
• Increased acidity under the influence of moisture, which has a destructive effect on nearby building materials.
• The fibers of the material are very brittle and light; during operation they can fly in the air of the room, which negatively affects the health of residents.

The only advantage of the material is its low cost.

Glass wool

Glass wool consists of fibers that are obtained by stretching from molten glassy material. The fibers thus obtained are formed into rolls and mats.

Despite the high thermal insulation properties, the use is limited due to the irritant harmful effects on the human body.

Basalt wool

Gabbro-basalt rocks are used for production. This is the most common wool, which is explained by its high strength and plastic characteristics.

The material does not lose its properties in the presence of moisture. Supplied in the form of rolls, mats, slabs. To improve the thermal insulation properties, a foil layer can be applied on one side, which reflects heat and directs it inside the room.

The most commonly used mineral wool is from UPSA. The main component is fiberglass with mineral additives. Available in rigid slabs and rolls. Before insulation it is necessary to apply a film coating.

Basalt wool from the TechnoNIKOL company has become widespread.

To enhance the waterproofing properties, it is necessary to lay the film with an overlapand an overlap on the walls up to 40 cm.

Mineral wool is also universal material for insulation of floors. To insulate a roof using it, you must:

1. Remove all waste and bulky debris from the floors, as well as nails and other objects that could damage the vapor barrier layer;
2. Place a special vapor barrier polyethylene or cellophane film on the attic floor. You can use glassine film - it is cheap and its structure resembles simple tracing paper;
3. Install the mineral wool as tightly and without gaps as possible. The material is laid closely between the beams with little effort. To do this, cut the material 20 mm wider than the distance between the beams.

Tip: there is no need to crumple or crumple it for additional compaction. The denser the material, the more heat it conducts and, accordingly, the worse its thermal insulation qualities;

1. Completely seal all cracks and joints in the coating;
2. Lay a covering on top and insulate it. If you are going to walk on the floor a lot, it is better to lay additional boards or shields. The boards should not rest against the heat-insulating layer - the insulation should not be compressed.

When laying mineral wool, it is better to use a respirator.

Recommendation. Rodents love cotton wool and polystyrene foam. If you have the financial opportunity, it would be best to fill the attic with foam glass. This material has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, is absolutely safe and environmentally friendly. It is durable, does not shrink, is not afraid of heat or frost, does not burn and is very easy to install. The only drawback is its price. Foam glass can be replaced with foam plastic, which must be protected from rodents with a screed.

Insulation with polystyrene foam

Polyethylene, which has been used for more than half a century, despite its low price, is not one of the most popular materials. Its use is limited due to flammability and the release of toxic substances during melting. Among the positive characteristics, it is worth noting the high thermal insulation properties, which are created due to the presence of up to 95% air in its composition. The material is very light and can be cut to required sizes without any problems. Placed between joists. In conditions of high humidity it does not lose its performance characteristics.

Despite the fact that extruded polystyrene foam high temperatures releases substances harmful to health, is classified as a self-extinguishing, low-flammable material and is more popular for insulation. It does not allow air to pass through, so if used on a wooden floor, it can contribute to the accumulation of moisture and the subsequent development of mold on its surface.

The insulation procedure is as follows:

• Leveling the surface for coating.
• Application of vapor barrier material.
• Laying polystyrene foam boards.
• Fastening the slabs with dowels with a mushroom-type cap.
• Thermal insulation of joints between slabs with foam, carefully filling the space. Align the joints with a carpenter's knife.
• Pouring the attic floor cement-sand screed thickness from 50 mm.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is applied by spraying; special equipment is required to complete the coating. For areas with severe winters, the coating is sprayed in two layers.

When performing thermal insulation with polyurethane foam, the following advantages are noted:

• High thermal insulation properties of the material.
• The material does not lose its performance characteristics under temperature changes and in conditions of high humidity.
• Using pressure spraying, the insulation penetrates into the slightest cracks, and upon expansion, a monolithic coating without seams is formed.
• The coating has high strength and does not deform under the weight of a person.
• No additional vapor or waterproofing is required.

The coating is applied directly to the previously cleaned attic floor between the joists. The polyurethane foam protruding from above the beams after hardening is removed with a sharp knife.

Insulation with natural materials

In order to insulate the attic and warmly insulate rooms, you can use natural materials that were previously widely used for insulation. Before choosing from the table below, please note that the lower the conductivity coefficient and the lower the weight, the better the material.

Reed insulation

For roof insulation reeds formed into mats are used. The peculiarity of the coating is that the mats overlap And each other, whileit is necessary to avoid the formation of gapsfor cold penetration. The mats are laid between the joists; it is advisable to use two layers of spacer.

The advantage of using reeds for insulation:

1. Rodents do not grow in reeds.
2. Has excellent thermal insulation properties.
3. Cheap material of natural origin.

Insulation with sea damask

Residents of coastal cities have long used sea damask as insulation. In these areas it has a low price. The material does not harbor rodents or mold. Damask tolerates temperature changes or high humidity well. Material e environmentally friendly, additional advantage in receiving iodine-rich atmosphere s.

Algae do not support burning, do not emit Yu tons of harmful impurities and smoke during a fire. For insulation attic specially manufactured ladders made of damask. For such a coatingThere is no need to perform a vapor barrier.

Reeds and algae are stackeddirectlyon the ceiling, lay flooring on top. Layer thickness from 20 cm.

Insulation with sawdust

In areas where wood processing enterprises are located, sawdust can be purchased cheaply, or even completely free. As a disadvantage, it is necessary to take into account the flammability of the material,which can be protected from during processing flame retardants.

The table shows data on what layer of sawdust should be laid depending on the temperature conditions of the area.

Thermal insulation with sawdust is performed in the following sequence:

D to seal cracks P The surface of the attic is first covered with liquid clay.

The clay surface develops cracks over time as it dries. Forsealing cracks andobtaining complete coverageA thin layer of sand is poured on top of the clay.

Before applicationlayer of sawdust, a layer of carbide and slaked lime is scattered to avoid the appearance of rodents in front.

Sawdust is applied in a layer of 15 cm. Depending on living conditionsthe layer of sawdust can reach up to 30 cm.

P a layer of waste slag crumbles on top of the sawdust, For in order to improve fire safety. This insulation is especially necessary in areas where cables are laid and where the chimney is located.

Insulation with sawdust and cement

A mixture of sawdust and cement at a ratio of 10/1 has good thermal insulation properties. The execution technology consists of the following steps:

1. Attic covering p A insulating coating.
2. Between beams a mixture of sawdust and a binder with water is applied. Before applicationthe solution must be keptso that the wooden components are saturated with water.
3. The work is carried out in the spring so that there is time for drying out . The mixture is applied with a thickness of at least 20 cm.
4. You can make sure that the mixture is completely dry daring several times on the surface. In this case you can hear characteristic crunch of dry wood.

Clay insulation

Clay is an excellent heat-insulating material and can independently protect a house from the cold.

But for this it is necessary to yat insulation with a layer of 50 cm, such a weight for the ceiling will be critical. Therefore, insulation is performed with a mixture of sawdust and clay. Let's look at this option in more detail.

Coating preparation and application technology:

1. To obtain a mixture of sawdust and clay, you need to prepare a special container, an old barrel will do.
2. Water is poured into the barrel, several buckets of clay are loaded and everything is mixed until almost all of the clay is dissolved.
3. The solution is loaded into a concrete mixer and sawdust is added to it. The result is a mixturemedium level of density.
4. The mixture is applied to the attic covering only after laying the vapor barrier layer.
5. A coating of 15-20 cm is applied to the ceiling. The cracks formed during drying are treated with wet clay.
6. The laid layer is leveled.

An overview of thermal insulation materials is given in the video:

More details about sawdust insulation in the video:

Setting up a summer attic

A summer attic differs from an attic in which people live year-round in that it can also be insulated along the floor, and not over the entire roof area. The advantages of such insulation are obvious:

• the floor area is much smaller than that of a gable roof;
• there is no need to file insulation;

However, the following points need to be taken into account:

• it must be covered with hard coverings;
• the flooring must be laid on additional joists so as not to compress the insulation layer.

Therefore, most optimal insulation for this type of ceiling is foam plastic. Its structure is quite rigid and will provide the opportunity to create additional support for the floor.

Before laying the foam, it is also necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer. The timber from which the logs will be made must be the same thickness as the foam sheets. It is best to place the logs at a distance of 45-50 cm from each other. After laying the foam, you can put on top of it:

• plywood;
• cardboard;

The thickness of such a coating may well be no more than 15mm. This method will reliably insulate the attic floor, and, accordingly, the ceiling under a cold roof.

We insulate the ceiling directly

There are also situations when there is no access to a space that is located above the ceiling level. In order to carry out the highest quality and reliable thermal insulation, a whole range of work should be carried out. However, it should be taken into account that such insulation will “eat up” part of the height of your room.

This is due to the fact that the thermal insulation layer will be located inside the building itself. This is not entirely correct, but if there is no other choice, then there is nothing else left. General rules here will be the same as during the insulation of attics and attics:

• Vapor barrier layer;
• Insulation;
• Vapor barrier layer.

The insulation is located between two layers of vapor barrier. This is necessary in order to protect the rafters, ceiling materials, and insulation from dampness.

To insulate the ceiling indoors, you can use any of the following options:

• Direct fixation of insulation to the ceiling using glue and fasteners.
• Installation of metal profile lathing on the ceiling or wooden slats followed by fastening the insulation between the guides.

Insulation work is carried out only on a previously prepared ceiling.

Preparing the ceiling for insulation

Preparation wooden surface consists of the following steps:

• Careful treatment of the wooden ceiling with a fire retardant, special attention must be paid to applying the coating to cracks, gaps and crevices.
• Sealing cracks, gaps and cracks involves puttingty on the wooden surface. Large gaps between the boards can be sealed using polyurethane foam. Excess hardened material must be removed with a sharp knife.

Concrete surface treatment:

• Inspect the ceiling. Peeling or weak decorative coverings and the plaster must be removed, the remaining surface must be cleaned of dust.
• Carefully expand the cracks and clean them from dirt. Apply primer coat. Seal with plaster mortar and sealant. Large cracks can be treated with foam and subsequently leveled flush with the surface with a sharp knife.
• General covering of a concrete ceiling with a primer coating.

Installing insulation directly on the ceiling

For this method of thermal insulation, insulation supplied in slabs is suitable: polystyrene foam and basalt wool.

The following materials can be used as glue:

Special cement glue, which is diluted strictly according to the instructions. It is necessary to pay attention to the hardening time indicated in the instructions. They are guided by it when choosing the required amount of solution. The mixture is applied to the surface of the insulation with a trowel or spatula along the entire contour and pointwise.

Fastening can be done on polyurethane foam, which is applied with a pistol in smaller quantities.

Coating technology:

• Applying adhesive to insulation.
• Press the slab against the ceiling and hold it in this state for several seconds.

• After installing several slabs, holes are drilled in the insulation and fastened using construction fungus. It should be longer than 70 mm of insulation thickness. Fastening is carried out at 5 points of the sheet.

• The gaps between the insulation sheets are sealed with polyurethane foam.

This method of insulation is performed before installing a stretch ceiling.

After polystyrene foam, you can reinforce the ceiling with mesh and plaster.

Ceiling insulation with lathing

The insulation method is used in cases where it is subsequently planned to cover the ceiling with plasterboard or clapboard. Work order:

• Marking the ceiling for the sheathing using a level. The distance depends on the width of the insulation. If you plan to use expanded polystyrene, then the distance between the slats or profile is equal in size to the width of the insulation. When using mineral wool, the distance between the slats should be 30-40 mm less than the width of the slab so that the insulation is slightly compacted.
• The wooden sheathing is fastened with self-tapping screws or dowels, step 50 cm, the fastener heads must be flush with the wood.
• The metal profile is attached to the ceiling using hangers.
• Insulation is placed between the profile or sheathing.

When insulating with polystyrene foam, the distance between the insulation and the frame is filled with polyurethane foam.

The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier material, which is attached to the metal profile with double-sided tape. It can be securely stapled to wood sheathing using a stapler.

After the film, the ceiling is covered with the selected material. Only after these steps can be carried out finishing ceiling.

Choosing a vapor barrier

The vapor barrier layer is very important element during ceiling insulation. It protects the house from mold and mildew, which can literally destroy the house (especially if it is made of wood). Vapor barrier materials presented on modern market, can be produced in the form:

• Films;
• Membranes.

Films, in turn, can be:

• reinforced - they are used for insulating attics and attics;
• micro-perforated - most suitable for insulating “cold” roofs;
• anti-condensation – one of the layers of which is capable of retaining drops of moisture.

If you only have the opportunity to insulate the ceiling from the inside, then use our tips:

1. If you are going to cover the ceiling with gypsum plaster boards, then you need to use special structures made of galvanized iron and secure them only with self-tapping screws. Otherwise, the entire structure risks falling on your head;
2. If you live in an area with a fairly warm climate, then you can limit yourself to a thin layer of thermal insulation - such as isolon;
3. Foam boards also serve as an excellent thermal insulation material;
4. And most importantly, you should remember that the ceiling is not the only way for heat to escape. Door and window structures, especially poorly sealed ones, also allow heat to pass through with a bang. Therefore, thermal insulation must be comprehensive.

After all this reading, it is useful to familiarize yourself with the basic laws of physics in the upper part of the house:

Roof insulation, although at first glance it seems easy, is a rather important issue. Therefore, it must be approached with maximum attention, and all unfavorable factors that may appear during the operation of such insulation must be taken into account. After reading our tips, you already know the technique for insulating the ceiling under the roof. However, if you are not sure that you can do it yourself, then it is better to entrust it to professionals!

We also recommend:

One of the problems in a private home is heat leakage through the ceiling. If in apartment building above warm apartment, then in our case above the head only cold attic, or even just a street. How to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private house if, for some reason, it is not possible to do this from the attic?

Selection of materials

Let's start with the insulation structure. It will be multi-layered; we have to do it sequentially:

• External steam and waterproofing insulation;
• Lathing for filling with heat-insulating material;
• Actually thermal insulation;
• Internal vapor barrier;
• Finally, the ceiling must be hemmed with any finishing material.

Vapor barrier

Glassine is most often used as a vapor barrier - an inexpensive material with quite acceptable consumer properties. However, if you need additional insurance against leaks, the best choice would be good old plastic film. It is absolutely impermeable to water and has a service life of at least fifty years.

Vapor barrier sheets are laid with overlap. If the ceiling is sloped (for example, in the attic), the film is laid in rows from bottom to top so that condensation cannot flow under the lower sheets. It is better to additionally seal the inner layer of vapor barrier with tape. This will ensure absolute tightness.

Why are all these measures needed? The worst enemy of mineral and ecowool insulation is condensation. Wet mineral wool greatly reduces its thermal insulation qualities. And the humidity indoors in winter is always much higher than outside (see).

Please note: if we insulate from below reinforced concrete floor, upper layer no vapor barrier needed. Between the moisture-impervious concrete and the insulation, the water simply has nowhere to come from.

Thermal insulating material

Two materials are most often used as insulation::

1. Styrofoam. Aka polystyrene foam. The slabs in which it is sold are quite large; recommended thickness for temperate climates is 5 centimeters, for Siberia and Far East — 10.

The main advantage is that this insulation is non-hygroscopic, it does not dampen. If so, with any fluctuations in humidity, the quality of the ceiling’s thermal insulation will not change (see).

1. Mineral wool (glass wool, ecowool, basalt wool and other variations on the same theme). The material is noticeably cheaper than foam plastic with the same degree of thermal insulation provided.

In addition, it is considered more environmentally friendly: mineral fiber does not emit anything into the atmosphere, and heated debates about the properties of polystyrene foam continue possible harm for good health .

The debate about which material is better can also be endless. On any construction portal you can meet convinced adherents of both methods of insulation; Therefore, we will not impose a certain position on the reader.

Let's just say that polystyrene foam changes its properties over time to a lesser extent, not only in a humid environment: mineral wool cakes over time. Even if perfect vapor barrier is provided.

If you choose polystyrene foam boards as thermal insulation - inner layer vapor barriers are also useless. It is enough to simply glue the seams between the plates with wide tape (see).

Sometimes the foam is simply placed on glue. From below it is covered with a layer decorative plaster- and the ceiling is ready.

Lathing

Two types of lathing are used: wooden and galvanized profile.

The wooden one is a little cheaper and a little easier to install. But the galvanized profile does not deform with fluctuations in temperature and humidity, is not affected by fungus and does not serve as food for insects.

A nuance: if we are talking about insulating the ceiling of a wooden house from the inside, you can safely make the sheathing from a bar or slats. In fact, what is the point of making a suspended ceiling stronger and more durable than walls and ceilings? Of course, it is worth treating the material for the sheathing with an antiseptic.

Binder

Everything is in your hands here. Most quick way hem the ceiling - PVC wall panels. In addition, they are easy to clean.

However, drywall will provide a smooth surface without seams; can be built and slatted ceiling, and hanging tile... The choice of material is solely a matter of personal preference and the budget allocated for repairs.

Basic Operations

As an example, let's consider insulating the ceiling from the inside in a private house for the case when there are beams overhead with a plank ceiling attached to them. The climate is temperate; We will be insulated with mineral wool 50 mm thick.

1. Armed with a stapler, we attach plastic film to the ceiling. It will completely stop the flow of moisture to the boards from the room and extend the life of our ceiling. An overlap of ten centimeters is required.
2. We stuff the sheathing. We will hem the ceiling with PVC panels; a thin mounting rail is sufficient for them. But let's not forget about the thickness of the thermal insulation and take a 50x50 block.

We will stuff it across the future panels in increments of 60 centimeters: in this case, the panels will not sag, and the mineral wool will not have to be cut to width. Most rolls are of this size.

1. We fill the gaps between the bars with mineral wool. It is better to wear textile gloves and protect your eyes and nose: cotton wool fibers are volatile.

1. Armed with a stapler again, we hem the sheathing from below with a second layer of polyethylene. Additionally, we glue the connections of the sheets with adhesive tape: the greater the tightness we provide, the longer the insulation will retain its properties.
2. Finally, the last stage: we hem the wall panels from below. We won’t focus on how this is done: installation methods have already been described hundreds of times.

Hem the panels to wooden sheathing- the task is more than simple.

Conclusion

Our goal has been achieved: the room is insulated from the inside. You don't have to be afraid of winter. The downside was that we lost about six centimeters of ceiling height. Unfortunately, the sacrifice was inevitable... Good luck with the repair!

Those who consider insulating a ceiling with a cold roof unnecessary should remember about condensation and significant heat loss in winter. Drops of condensation that form on the ceiling and inclined surfaces due to temperature changes fall down the collar and head - a very unpleasant sensation at any time of the year.

Warm air rises upward according to the law of convection - for further circulation. When it receives significant cooling from a cold ceiling, heating the room can be considered ineffective.

That is why any method of insulating the roof, ceiling and attic spaces is considered the most effective measure heat saving.

How to insulate the ceilings and attics of private houses?

When building private houses, everyone wants to save money. But no one will dispute that cheap building materials are not effective or have a limited service life. It is better to master installation technology, where available, in order to save on installing insulation yourself.

Attention: The more technologically advanced each stage of construction is carried out from quality materials The longer the house will last without requiring major repairs. This is the essence of saving for the future.

Any construction supermarket will offer a complete list of insulation materials that are used during the construction of a roof or after completion of rough work.

They are available in different forms:

• rolled materials;
• porous briquettes;
• sheet insulation;
• sprayed two-component mixtures;
• bulk materials;
• fiber insulation;
• foil wrapper.

The choice of insulation for the ceiling of a particular building depends on the type of surface and temperature conditions in the interior.

In this case, we are talking mainly about external insulation - the floors of the attic or attic (on the other side of the ceiling of living rooms in residential buildings). For example, they use materials that are not suitable for energy saving methods in a bathhouse, where high level humidity, and vice versa.

In some cases it is necessary to use special equipment. You can’t do without it when spraying with polyurethane foam.

But this method is indispensable when it comes to processing inclined and negative surfaces, a metal frame and a combination of materials of different textures used when installing roofs of complex shapes.

It is much easier to insulate the joists with sawdust or expanded clay (of any fraction). They belong to bulk materials that do not require complex installation.

Apart from leveling, nothing needs to be done with them; then the substrate and cladding are laid, if necessary. residential attic. For an empty attic you can leave bulk materials without any fastening.

Tip: In some areas bulk insulation materials are free. In coastal areas, this is dry seaweed that a storm throws onto the coast. In the area of ​​the sawmill and wood processing enterprises there is a lot of sawdust, shavings and crushed bark.

Internal insulation of the attic along the beams and rafters - laying mineral wool with large briquettes, but the floors (the reverse side of the ceilings) must be insulated.

Specifics of a cold roof and its insulation

Relying on modern technologies, any roof is erected like a multi-layer sandwich or sandwich, hence the borrowed name. Hydro- and vapor barrier, thermal insulation and multi-layer roofing are expected.

It is necessary to treat building materials with fungicides (from fungi), antiseptics and chemicals to prevent mice from breeding in the attic. Rodents easily climb stairs and any inclined or porous surface.

Cold roofing is a dubious economy, but it is appropriate in different cases:

• For country houses, which are not used in winter;
• for auxiliary buildings;
• with high-quality insulation of the ceiling in the house (outside and from the attic);
• when the foundation is on unstable soils, it cannot be subjected to a large load in the form of several floors and an insulated roof of an intricate configuration;
• if the attic or attic is not used for living rooms, and the house is warm enough, built using energy-saving technology, and also in the form of a log house (made of natural wood).

In these cases, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling in a house under a cold roof.

At the same time, all communications, chimneys and heating pipes passing through the attic are insulated with rolled, foil and sprayed materials.

The advantages of such insulation:

• Comfortable microclimate all year round.
• Minimum temperature difference.
• Additional sound insulation from the roof (rain, hail, gusty winds).
• Prevents the formation of condensation.
• Energy saving.

If possible, overlap between top floor and non-residential attic space cold type produce in both directions.

You can use tension and dropped ceilings, multilayer structures made of gypsum plasterboard, behind which it is easy to hide wires and communications. Good example– in the photo of the ceiling insulation.

Tip: Whenever possible, use non-flammable or flame retardant materials to reduce the risk of fire to a minimum.

Common insulation materials

Keep in mind that high-quality insulation can only be comprehensive - windows and doors, external and internal surfaces.

Spray polyurethane foam

To do it yourself, you need to rent a special installation for mixing a two-component composition, which is supplied through a sprayer with nozzles in the form of “snow flakes”.

They stick well to any surface, even those not treated with expensive primers. The advantage is that the tube can be supplied to all hard-to-reach places in attics.

Expanded clay

Bulk material in the form of small pebbles based on clay, which is scattered over the entire horizontal surface of the attic.

Cellulose ecowool

It resembles flakes, which are also sprinkled over the surface without any fixation.

Foam sheets and rolls

A popular material, since foam insulation is one of the most affordable means. It can be placed in specially prepared cells or stitched layer by layer over the entire surface.

Mineral or stone wool

Practical non-flammable fibrous porous material that does not harbor mice and insects. Produced in sheets, briquettes and rolls.

Today insulation with mineral or basalt wool remains the most popular due to the properties of the material and convenient packaging.

Wood waste

Available insulation. Although wood is a combustible material, it will not ignite without oxygen supply and preheating. But to guarantee, additional treatment with a fire-fighting mixture is recommended.

Disadvantage - you can introduce wood pests that can cause damage to wooden roofing.

As natural insulation materials, in every locality there will be agricultural waste or plant waste suitable for these purposes. These are cake and husks, hay and straw, crushed reeds and corn, fallen leaves and pine needles.

They can be mixed, used separately, if there is no other alternative, poured over expanded clay. A layer of 5-7 cm is enough for the heat retention to be noticeable.

To reduce the likelihood of ignition, it is better to mix plant waste with clay or sprinkle sand on top. Plant mixtures are susceptible to rotting, so over time you will have to change old layer for new insulation.

The laid wires need additional insulation, so they are usually enclosed in hollow corrugated tubes made of non-flammable polymers. Keep in mind that each heat-insulating material has its own installation method and service life.

Photo of ceiling insulation

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