Life in the lap of nature - pipe dream many townspeople. Indoor plants will help you get closer to its implementation; they create an aura of natural freshness. Moreover, a green corner in an apartment can be a semblance of not only the tropics, but also our Central Russian forests. For example, fatsia (or Japanese aralia) will remind you of a chestnut or maple grove. Its large patterned leaves are very similar to the greenery of your favorite trees. In order for them to stay green for a long time, you need to know the basics of caring for Fatsia at home.
Origin of fatsia, appearance and care features
Fatsia is a native of the Asian Southeast. This plant, which naturally reaches a height of 5 meters, is common in Japan, Korea, the island of Taiwan and New Zealand. In its natural environment, Fatsia is accustomed to warm and humid summers, cool but frost-free, and dry winters. She tolerates significant daily changes well.
The plant is used for landscape gardening in regions with a subtropical climate. In Russia, fatsia is grown in open ground on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus and in the Crimea.
In Japan, fatsia is traditionally planted near houses on the north side. There is a belief that the plant protects the inhabitants of the home from the evil spirits of the north.
How Aralia became Fatsia: Difficulties of Classification
Until the middle of the 19th century, no one knew the plant with the name “Fatsia”. The evergreen tree, brought to Europe from Japan, won the sympathy of flower growers under the name Japanese Aralia. The feathery, large, glossy leaves and relatively undemanding nature of the new plant appealed to many.
Japanese Aralia began to be grown at home, mainly used for landscaping in shaded areas. However, botanists who studied representatives of the large plant family Araliaceae, in 1854 they decided to identify a separate genus with the name Fatsia. It included only three species. Fatsias differ from other Araliaceae in the special structure of their leaves and inflorescences, and most importantly in that they are evergreen and not deciduous plants.
A new genus of Araliaceae was identified by French botanists Joseph Decken and Jules Planchon. They derived the name of the plant from the old Japanese word “fatsi”, which means the number 8. Thus, scientists noted the number of leaf blades. However, their number may vary. The young leaf is not divided into lobes at all.
Japanese Aralia at home
Fatsia has been grown in indoor floriculture for more than 200 years. However, the plant, popular in the 19th century, has now given way to more exotic tropical flowers. Although fatsia has many advantages. Unlike Tropicans, it is able to tolerate a lack of light, it does not require high humidity all year round, it grows quickly, and the lush foliage is very spectacular and is not inferior in beauty to other plants.
It is generally accepted that Fatsia is easy to care for. This plant is “generally very hardy and adapts to any conditions,” writes gardening guru Dr. Hessayon. He advises giving the flower Fresh air, coolness and diffused light, then there will be no problems. True, he notes that there are some difficulties when growing fatsia. According to Russian amateur gardeners, this plant is not as simple as it seems at first glance. It is especially difficult to adapt to watering; fatsia is almost equally intolerant of either drought or overwatering. But fans of chestnut greenery find an approach to the oriental plant and have already learned to overcome difficulties. The most important thing, they admit, is regular and attentive care.
Russians often call Fatsia a home or Japanese chestnut. Its crown, in fact, is similar to a chestnut tree, only it grows much faster and remains green all year round.
When kept at home, Fatsia rarely grows above 2 meters. Over the years, the straight stem becomes covered with bark. If the plant is not helped, it branches weakly. Fatsia has a fluffy crown, consisting of large leaves (up to 35 cm) of an original shape. They are located on long petioles. At first, the rounded leaf is solid, over time it is divided into parts-blades with a pointed end, there can be from 5 to 9. The texture of the leaf plate is dense and glossy. The color is rich green in the basic form; there are variegated varieties with contrasting spots and edges. Openwork foliage is the main decoration of fatsia.
Flowers at home appear rarely and are not very decorative. They are white or greenish, collected in umbrella inflorescences. When pollinated, blue-black berries are formed, but fatsia seeds do not always ripen completely.
Fatsia juice is slightly toxic. It may cause an allergic reaction in people with sensitive skin. Therefore, when transplanting and forming a plant, you should wear gloves and then wash your hands thoroughly.
Fatsia Japanese, its hybrids and varieties
In indoor floriculture, only one type of Fatsia is cultivated - Japanese Aralia, as well as its hybrid with ivy and various varieties.
- Fatsia (Aralia japonica or Siebold) – base plant for other forms. In indoor conditions it grows up to 1.4 meters. A rapidly growing shrub with large, chestnut-like, uniform and shiny leaves. The plant is more hardy compared to variegated varieties.
- Moseri is a compact fatsia, no more than half a meter tall. The petioles are shorter, due to this a bush with a dense crown is formed. The leaves are dark green, glossy with a characteristic shape.
- Fatsia variety Spider's Web has large leaves of an unusual bluish-green color. They are decorated with silvery-white spots located along the veins.
- Fatsia Tsumugi Shibori is similar to the Spider's Web variety. But this variety has larger spots and more of them, so that the white color predominates over the green.
- Fatsia Variegata is a plant with green foliage edged with an uneven cream or white stripe.
- Fatsia Annelise is a bright variety. Leaves with white veins are covered with golden-yellowish and light green streaks.
- Murakumo Nishiki - fatsia with leaves that seem to be ready for autumn, the green pattern is light yellow with a lemon tint.
- Aureimarginatis is a fatsia variety with green leaf blades framed by a gold-colored border.
- Argenteimarginatis - indoor chestnut variety with variegated leaves. They are green in the center and have a silver-white stripe along the edge.
Varieties of indoor flowers in the photo
About care errors (table): why leaves wither or turn yellow, flowers don’t bloom and other problems
| Manifestation | Cause | Solution |
| The leaves became soft and drooped. |
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| The leaves dry out from the tips onwards and break. | The air is too dry. | Spray the plant more often. Give him a shower. Place an open container of water, a humidifier, or a fountain nearby. |
| The leaves wrinkle. | Low air humidity or excess sun. | Take measures to humidify the air. Remove fatsia from the sun. |
| Leaves turn yellow and fall off over time. | Overmoistening of the soil. | Adjust the watering mode. If the condition is critical, change the soil and check the condition of the roots. If you find rot, treat it. |
| The plant has slowed or stopped growing. | Cramped pot, poor soil. | If roots have grown into the drainage holes, it's time to change the pot. |
| The variegated leaves become evenly green. |
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| The leaves become smaller, the distances between the nodes become larger. |
Video: about some care mistakes
Diseases, pests, preventive measures and treatment methods (table)
| How is it expressed? | Who or what is harming? | Treatment and methods of struggle | Preventive measures |
| The leaves have yellowish spots and dots, sometimes there is a white web. The foliage is dying. | Spider mite infestation. | Spray with insecticide, phytoferm and derris are suitable. | Inspect the plant regularly to detect the presence of pests and take timely measures. Moisten Fatsia leaves frequently. Support high humidity air, ventilate the room, harmful insects breed in dry and stuffy rooms. |
| The leaves wither, green larvae are clearly visible below, and whitish tiny butterflies fly around. | A whitefly has settled on a flower. |
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| The leaves turn pale, curl, and the stems are deformed. Tiny insects are visible. | Aphids have attacked. |
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| Brown hard spots bottom side leaves along the veins. The leaves lighten and die. | Impact of scale insects. | Remove the pest manually; adult pests are not afraid of chemicals. Then treat the plant with an insecticide solution. Carry out the treatment until the pest is completely destroyed. | |
| Dark rotting spots appear on the leaves and stems, often at the bottom. | Gray rot. | When the rot has just affected the plant, you can try to cure it.
| Soil waterlogging - main reason fungal diseases. And stale air helps their development. To avoid infection, adjust watering and ventilate the room more often. Keep new plants in quarantine. |
| The plant loses its tone and withers, but the soil is moist. | Root rot. |
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Reproduction
You can get new fatsias vegetatively and from seeds. There are two vegetative methods: apical cuttings and layering.
Cuttings
Fatsia cuttings are carried out before spring awakening; it can be combined with pruning, or in the summer.
By layering
This method is suitable if the plant is too elongated and its stem is exposed.
- In spring, make a circular cut on the trunk.
- Wrap this place with damp moss, you can soak it in a stimulant, and cover it on top plastic film or put on a glass.
- Keep the moss moist.
- After 4–6 weeks, roots will form at the incision site.
- Let them get stronger, and after a month and a half, cut the trunk just below the new roots.
- Plant the plant in a suitable pot.
- Cut off the remaining trunk and cover with damp moss.
- Water it so that side shoots begin to grow.
Seeds
Fatsia seeds can be obtained at home with some effort. But most often they give low germination because they do not ripen to the end. You can purchase seed material in the store. Just keep in mind that fatsia seeds have a short shelf life. And it is difficult to grow this plant from seedlings.
- Start the sowing campaign in March. Prepare a soil substrate from equal parts of leaf soil and sand.
- Before planting, check the quality of the seeds. Throw them into the water. Those that have surfaced are not suitable for sowing. Plant only those that have sunk to the bottom.
- Plant the seeds to a depth of 0.5 cm in a moist substrate.
- Cover the greenhouse and place it in a warm (+25) place.
- When 2–3 young leaves appear, plant the seedlings in pots (5–7 cm in diameter).
- Over the summer, transfer them two or three times to larger pots and nutritious soil.
Video: propagation of fatsia by cuttings
Fatsia belongs to the Araliaceae family. Homeland - Japan, South Korea. Fatsia was brought to Europe in 1933. This plant is also found on Far East in mixed and coniferous forests.
Fatsia flower is a plant with large, shiny, leathery, bright green leaves. The leaves reach 35 cm in diameter and are palmate in shape. The leaf blades have a beautiful ornament and characteristic shine. There are rare varieties of Fatsia, the leaves of which have a white or yellow border along the edges. IN at a young age The leaves and shoots of the plant are covered with hairs and are reddish-brown in color. The trunk is lined with thorns, root system superficial. Under natural conditions it reaches 6 m in height. Fatsia indoors in an apartment grows up to 1.2 m.
When flowering, the plant produces greenish-yellow flowers, collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences. It blooms very rarely indoors. The fruits are blue-gray in color. The roots contain essential and tannin substances. After the flowering period, black fruits appear on the plant.
Fatsia japonica is suitable for indoor landscaping in hallways, living spaces, winter gardens and so on.
Types and varieties of Fatsia (with photos)
Among the types of fatsia, the most commonly found at home is Japanese (F. japonica) - an ornamental deciduous tree up to 1.5 m high, with a weakly branching trunk covered with light brown bark. Leaves up to 30 cm in diameter, alternate, petiolate, palmately divided, lobes broadly lanceolate, serrate along the edge, leathery, glossy. Petioles are swollen at the base, with brownish, falling pubescence. The flowers are small, white or yellowish-green, collected in apical inflorescences. The fruits are berry-shaped, dark blue. There are forms with leaves painted white or cream at the ends of the lobes, with a yellow border along the edge.
The most popular varieties are F. japonica silver-bordered (F'. japonica mag. argenteimarginatis) - leaves with a white border; Golden-edged Japanese fatsia (F. japonica mag. aureimarginatis) - leaves with a yellow edge; F. Japanese Moser (F. japonica mag. moseri) is a compact plant.
Fatsia Albomarginata, Reticulata - bushy, with white or variegated yellow leaves, and Mosery - with very large bright green leaves. In the summer-autumn period, the plant can be taken out into the fresh air and installed in a shaded place.
Fatshedera Lizei is presented in the form of a tall evergreen shrub, reaching a height of more than 5 meters. The stem is decorated with dark green leaves, very densely arranged, forming a lush crown.
The following photos show some types of fatsia, after getting acquainted with which the future gardener will be able to decide which ones to choose for growing at home:
Photo gallery
There are several varieties of fatsia:
Variety "Moseri"— the bush is distinguished by its compactness, so it is optimal for keeping indoors.
Variety "Spider's Web"- has beautiful green leaves with white spots on the surface, scattered across the leaf blade like splashes. This gives the plant an unusual and attractive appearance.
Variety "Variegata"- fatsia with dark green leaf blades on which there are white and cream spots.
Variety "Annelise"- characterized by elongated and slightly elongated leaves with a golden-yellow center.
Variety "Tsumugi Shibori"- There are many white spots on the leaves.
Variety "F. Japonica variegata "Camouflage" has an unusual leaf blade, where the core is light green and a dark green tint along the edge of the leaf.
We present to your attention a selection of photos of the Fatsia flower with its types and varieties:
Photo gallery
How to care for Fatsia and how to rejuvenate the plant (with video)
Having decided to grow fatsia, the grower begins to look for information on how to grow this crop. Meanwhile, caring for the flower is quite simple. The following are the basic rules for caring for this plant.
Location. Indoor flower Fatsia is photophilous, so it develops best in a bright or semi-shaded room. However, we should not forget that the culture is shade-tolerant. She does not tolerate drafts and wind. In summer, it can be taken out into the fresh air, located in a shaded, windless place. Fatsia tolerates light frosts painlessly, but this does not mean that it can be placed outside in winter.
Watering and air humidity. For lush flowering requires abundant and frequent watering with soft, well-settled water. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the water does not stagnate. In general, this plant is quite sensitive to watering and reacts to drought by withering leaves. After watering is resumed, the leaves return to their previous shape, but this will take some time. On the other hand, excessive moisture is also undesirable, since there is a high probability of root rotting, which will negatively affect well-being and appearance flower. In winter, watering is somewhat more moderate and is carried out as the soil coma dries out. During the dormant period, fertilizing should not be carried out. When caring for fatsia at home, you need to take into account that for normal growth and development it requires high air humidity, so it is best to place the pot with the plant on a tray filled with wet pebbles. Wash the leaves regularly with water at room temperature.
Temperature. In winter it prefers cool conditions, but adapts to any room conditions. In winter, the flower is kept at a temperature of 6–10 °C, variegated forms – 14–16 °C.
Transplantation and substrate. Replanted in the spring. The soil is prepared from a mixture of turf soil, humus and sand (2:1:1); the substrate should be slightly acidic. The indoor plant Fatsia grows well on artificial substrates, both in hydroponic and ion exchange cultures. A variety of utensils are used to maintain it, depending on the purpose. Periodically it is necessary to inspect the plant, remove dried leaves and trim elongated shoots. During the growth period, Fatsia is fed with complete mineral fertilizer.
Fatsia flower care also includes pinching plants to obtain branched bushes. It is especially recommended to pinch the tops of young specimens. It is enough to carry out this procedure once a year. The plant easily tolerates such pruning, and the result is not long in coming. Quite quickly you can notice that new leaves and young shoots are forming on the trunk, which are good for reproduction.
Let's give an example of how to care for fatsia so that its fresh and attractive appearance lasts longer. Old plants can be rejuvenated using air layering. To do this, the trunk in its upper part is carefully cut in a ring shape and tied with damp moss soaked in nutrient solution and growth hormones, for example, heteroauxin. As the moss ball dries, it is moistened. 2 months after the formation of callus and roots at the site of the incision, the removed top is carefully cut off below the site of root formation and planted in a substrate or soil. The remaining bare remainder of the trunk can be cut off near the root collar, split it lengthwise into two parts, then put both halves horizontally in a picking box with sand, peat, expanded clay, ionite substrate and cover with the same substrate, a layer 2-3 cm thick. With constant substrate moisture, young shoots will develop from the buds and give roots. The stump remaining after cutting the trunk of an old plant will in turn produce 2-3 young shoots, which can continue to be cultivated in the same container. Sometimes, after removing the air layering, the trunk is not cut off, but 2-3 cuttings of indoor ivy are grafted onto it into a split or behind the bark. The grafted cuttings will take root and grow, falling down and beautifully framing the Fatsia trunk, giving the plant a “weeping shape”.
The video given here will tell you more about how to rejuvenate fatsia:
A method for growing fatsia from seeds at home
The crop is propagated by seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush.
The most effective method of propagating fatsia from seeds at home is considered, and sowing should be done in April, burying the seeds in the planting substrate to a depth of 1 cm. Containers with crops are covered with film and placed in a warm place where the temperature does not drop below 18 degrees. Periodically, remove the film and moisten the soil with the seeds. At moderate watering After 20 - 25 days, shoots will appear. Growing Fatsia with seeds will continue in separate larger pots when the seedlings become strong enough. You can plant them and put them in a lighted place, however, avoiding direct sunlight on the plant.
Fatsia propagation by cuttings and layering
When propagating by cuttings, cut the apical shoots so that 1–2 leaves remain on them. Most optimal period for such breeding – April – August. For rooting, the cuttings are placed in soil consisting of peat and sand and kept at a temperature of 22 - 25 degrees under a plastic film. The cover is removed when the buds begin to develop.
Fatsia can be propagated by air layering. To form air layering, an extending side shoot without leaves is used. doing this work, the gardener cuts off a section of bark in the shape of a ring and wraps the damaged area with damp moss. Moss needs to be moistened regularly. The first roots will begin to form in 1.5 months. The shoot is cut below the roots from the mother plant and immediately planted in a pot with soil for an adult plant.
Why Fatsia leaves dry out and turn yellow: diseases and pests of the plant
In some cases, fatsia is affected by diseases and pests, in which case the gardener must quickly eliminate the causes of their occurrence and begin to treat the plant.
Pests such as whitefly, scale insects, mealybugs, aphids, thrips, and red spider mites can cause great harm to the plant.
White coating on leaves, rotting roots. Reason: defeat powdery mildew. It is necessary to adjust the water regime and treat the plant with special preparations. It happens that fatsia leaves dry out and fall off, this indicates the appearance of sticky honeydew on them, brown spots, yellowing of leaves. Cause: damage by scale insects or whiteflies. It is necessary to wipe the leaves with a swab dipped in soapy water or tobacco infusion, or treat them with special chemicals. If the leaf blades become soft and after a while begin to fall off, the cause may be overwatering. To eliminate the problem, you should adjust watering and normalize soil moisture.
Fatsia leaves can turn yellow for several reasons, one of which may be dryness or high air temperature in the room where the plant is kept. It is necessary to reduce the temperature and humidify the air. The problem can be eliminated with frequent spraying.
Fatsia may react negatively to transplantation, since the plant experiences stress during this period. This also in some cases leads to yellowing and wilting of the leaves. In order for the flower to endure replanting more easily and to take root well in the new substrate, it is imperative to apply mineral fertilizers and properly care for the plant. The soil for planting should be nutritious, based on turf soil. Place a layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot. This will help avoid stagnation of moisture in the soil and rotting of the roots.
For medicinal purposes, this plant is used as a tonic and general strengthening agent, increasing the immune properties of the entire body. The bark promotes urination as well as salivation. It is a good analgesic and is used as a painkiller for joint pain and rheumatism. It has antiseptic properties and helps with skin diseases, as well as insomnia and increased nervous excitability. Treats gastritis, insomnia, increased nervous excitability.
Luxurious, magnificent, royal, chic - all this can be said about Fatsia, which ranks among the most beautiful house plants. Large carved leaves unusual shape, glossy green or covered with a pattern, collected in a dense rosette, make fatsia a real decoration of any interior. Fastia looks especially harmonious in large rooms: halls, living rooms, lobbies. You will learn how to grow this beauty and how to care for her from our publication.
The genus Fatsia (lat. Fatsia) is not large and belongs to the Araliaceae family. The closest relatives of the exotic beauty are schefflera, coryfolia, ivy and aralia. The original name of Fatsia, Japanese Aralia, also speaks about family ties, but later, in order to avoid confusion, Fatsia was called own name. The current name comes from the Japanese word "fatsi", meaning the number eight, which emphasizes the eight-lobed structure of the leaf.
In nature, fatsia is an evergreen shrub with a small number of branches, in some places it takes the form of a small tree. Distributed mainly on the islands of Japan and Taiwan, in Russia it is found in the Far East.
In its homeland, Japan, as well as in China, Fatsia is widely used as a landscape decoration for the site and in folk medicine. A decoction of the plant is used to treat rheumatism, colds, diabetes and many other diseases. And the stimulating effect of fatsia decoctions, used, for example, to increase blood pressure, is even higher than that of ginseng.
[!] You should not self-medicate - remember, Fatsia, like many plants of the Araliaceae family, does not contain a large number of toxic substances. Therefore, improper use of the plant can be harmful to health.
As mentioned above, fatsia is a spreading shrub with several shoots and large leaves at their end. The leaves are dense, glossy, dissected into 7-10 segments. The lower, older leaves may be whole or have only 2-3 lobes. Small white flowers collected in a panicle are of no decorative value. After flowering, blue-black berries form on the bush.
Under natural conditions, you can find only three types of fatsia (F.japonica, F.oligocarpella, F.polycarpa), and only one of them is grown as an indoor crop.
Type of indoor fatsia, variety
Botanists have adapted only one type of fatsia to home conditions: this is the Japanese fatsia (lat. Fatsia Japonica). The plant is very impressive: large carved leaves decorate the branched bush.
The leaves of the ordinary Japanese fatsia are an even bright green color. But, over time, breeders also developed variegated varieties, which also differ in size:
F. Japonica "Moseri" is a small, neat shrub with glossy, dense, rich green leaves;
F. Japonica "Variegata" - the leaf blades of this variety are decorated with light green spots scattered in a chaotic manner;
F. Japonica variegata "Camouflage" - a brightly eye-catching lighter core of the leaf and a dark green tint on the edges, the coloring resembles a camouflage pattern;
F. Japonica Moseri, Variegata, Camouflage F. Japonica “Annelise” - a slightly modified leaf shape compared to the usual Japanese fatsia - more elongated and elongated, the center and main veins are light green;
F. Japonica “Spider’s Web” - large carved leaves, as if sprinkled with silvery flour along the edges, the pattern of veins, painted in dark green, is well defined.
F. Japonica Annelise, Spiders Web Sometimes one of the varieties is considered a hybrid of Fatsia and ivy - Fatshedera, but, from a botanical point of view, this is not entirely true: Fatshedera is a separate plant.
Fatsia care at home
Indoor Fatsia will not cause much trouble for its owner - the Japanese beauty is unpretentious. At the same time, Fatsia is one of the most shade-tolerant plants, which can be placed both on north-oriented window sills and in the back of the room. The shrub takes cool fresh air well, so in summer the plant can be taken out to a loggia, veranda or garden plot. However, first things first...
Temperature and lighting
Fatsia is a plant of mild temperate climate with changing seasons. Therefore, the comfortable temperature range for keeping a Japanese guest varies depending on the season.
In summer the plant develops well at 18-24°C; in winter the temperature should be slightly lower. The best wintering for fatsia is quite low temperature, no higher than 12°C, it is in this case that a full period of plant dormancy begins. Such conditions can be organized by placing a flower pot outside glazed loggia or the veranda of the house. However, if there is no cool winter room, Fatsia will overwinter just fine in an ordinary room.
Fatsia only does not tolerate strong summer heat - air temperatures above 25°C can be detrimental to the plant.
Since Fatsia prefers cool weather, the open scorching sun will damage the plant. That's why, best place Shaded spaces will be used to accommodate the Japanese beauty: eastern or western window sills, surfaces in the back of the room. However, the complete absence of light will have a bad effect on the flower - Fatsia can stop its growth.
Watering and air humidity
As with other plants that stop growing in winter, watering Fatsia should vary depending on the time of year. During the dormant period, the frequency of watering should not exceed once a month; in summer the plant requires much more moisture. The regularity of summer watering is about once or twice a week.
[!] To more accurately determine whether Fatsia requires water, use a proven method. Pierce the soil in the bowl wooden stick If the top third of the soil is dry, you can water it.
[!] Be careful: even due to a single overdrying of the earthen coma, Fatsia can drop its leaves. In the future, it will be very difficult to revive such a plant.
Water for irrigation should be soft, settled, and at room temperature. Tap water that is too hard may cause unsightly white streaks to appear on glossy leaves and stems. To avoid bottom rotting of the root, excess liquid from the pan must be drained.
Air humidity, as well as watering, should be increased in the warm season. Fatsia will gratefully respond to spraying and showering during the hot summer months. In addition, high humidity will prevent the appearance of spider mite, one of the most dangerous insect pests. There is no need to spray the bush in winter.
Regarding air, another important point is to protect fatsia from drafts, especially in low winter temperatures. Cold gusts of air, and especially in combination with intensive watering, can damage delicate leaves; subsequently they will not recover.
Soil, fertilizing, replanting
The soil most suitable for fatsia should have the following characteristics: water and breathability, neutral acidity. You can make your own soil mixture by taking turf and leaf soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. In addition, they will fit well ready-made soils– universal based on turf soil with a small addition of sand.
In the warm season, especially in spring and early summer, Fatsia needs to be fed. For this purpose, universal fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants are best suited. The required dose of fertilizing is calculated based on the manufacturer's recommendations.
Unfortunately, Japanese Aralia is one of those plants that does not tolerate transplantation well. After moving to another container, Fatsia usually gets sick and takes a long time to adapt to new conditions. However, from time to time, the plant still needs to be replanted. You can find out whether a transplant is required by the roots: if they appear from drainage hole, the time has come. On average, adult specimens are replanted every two to three years.
[!] To plant fatsia, use only small pots (1-1.5 cm larger than the volume of the earthen ball). Dishes “for growing” are not suitable; too much soil will negatively affect the health of the plant.
The least traumatic method of transplantation is transshipment. The shrub is removed from the old container and, together with the earthen lump, is moved to a new one, while adding fresh substrate. Don’t forget about a good drainage layer - at least one quarter of the entire height of the pot. However, this method of transplantation will not work if you have just bought fatsia.
What to do after buying fatsia
After you bring Fatsia home from the store, it needs to be replanted. The fact is that all store-bought plants are sold in peat-based transport soil, which is unsuitable for long-term cultivation.
[!] Peat tends to stick to the roots and retain moisture. Because of this, the roots often rot even though the plant is not watered and, in general, the substrate seems dry.
So, the scheme for transplanting purchased fatsia:
- Dry the substrate slightly for 1-2 days;
- Remove the bush from the store container and dry the soil again;
- Remove all peat;
- Peat stuck to the roots should also be cleaned. Carry out the procedure very carefully, trying not to damage the thin roots;
- Spray the roots freed from peat with any root formation stimulator and immunomodulator (Zircon, Kornevin) and transplant into a fresh substrate;
- Do not water the plant for 3-4 days after transplanting.
It must be borne in mind that even the most gentle method of transplantation will have a bad effect on Fatsia and the plant will definitely get sick.
Trimming
In order for Fatsia to always look impressive and decorative, from time to time the plant needs to be trimmed a little.
[!] After pruning, Fatsia usually becomes thicker: many new shoots appear.
Old, overgrown shoots or branches that thicken the bush are selected for removal. It is important not to be too overzealous with pruning and to remove only the few stems that are really in the way. Otherwise, Fatsia may die.
If the plant has become too tall for the room in which it is located, pruning will help adjust its size. To do this, several main shoots of the bush are removed, after which fatsia begins to actively grow side shoots, while practically not developing in height.
Reproduction
Fatsia can be propagated in several ways: seeds, cuttings and layering.
Propagation by seeds- one of the most labor-intensive and unreliable methods. Firstly, fatsia seeds are difficult to collect, secondly, they give extremely low germination, and thirdly, when propagated by seeds, varietal characteristics are lost.
For those who are not afraid of difficulties, a little more about this method. Pre-collected seeds are cleared of pulp, dried a little and soaked for one day in water or a damp cloth. After this, the prepared seeds are sown in a mixture of sand and peat or turf soil and sand, deepened by about 0.5 cm. The dishes are moved to a warm place and wait for germination. When the sprouts get stronger and the first pair of full-fledged leaves appears, Fatsia needs to be transplanted into a regular substrate, and then cared for as an adult plant.
Propagation by cuttings usually carried out in the spring. To do this, apical cuttings with several buds are cut, placed in a peat-sand mixture and, to simulate a greenhouse, covered glass jar or plastic bottle. From time to time, the rooting cuttings need to be ventilated by removing the jar and watered with water at room temperature. The container with the handle should be placed in a warm and bright place.
Formation air layering- a method of reproduction that requires some skills in floriculture. An adult shoot of the plant is cut in a circle, and the cut points are covered with sphagnum, which must be constantly moistened. Within two to three months, thin roots will appear at the cut site, after which the shoot can be cut off slightly below the roots that have appeared and transplanted into a new container.
Diseases, pests and growing problems
The main pest that threatens fatsia is the spider mite. This insect is difficult to notice. after all, its size is too small, and the web it leaves is practically invisible. And only when the symptoms clearly appear on the leaves do flower growers begin to sound the alarm. If the cause of the flower's malaise is a spider mite, it is necessary to wash off the harmful invader and treat the plant with modern insecticides.
Fatsia gets sick quite rarely - there are no diseases unique to this plant. All Fatsia's ailments are associated exclusively with improper care. A particularly common mistake that Japanese azalea owners make is overwatering. It is because of this that root rot can appear, one of the most dangerous diseases, which, moreover, is very difficult to cure.
Fatsia leaves curl. The probable cause is the appearance of spider mites. What to do: you need to carefully examine the plant and, if cobwebs and small insects are found, treat it with insecticides.
The leaves have become lethargic, soft and yellowed, the shoots are losing turgor. Symptoms indicate root rot caused by flooding of the plant. What to do: remove the fatsia from the bowl and carefully examine the root. If there are rotten areas, cut them off and sprinkle the cuttings with roots. Then completely replace the soil and plant the shrubs again.
The tips of fatsia leaves turn yellow- this, on the contrary, indicates that the flower does not have enough water. What to do: increase the intensity of watering.
The tips of the leaves turn brown and dry out– in the case when watering is sufficient, such a symptom may indicate excessive dryness of the air. What to do: carry out procedures aimed at increasing air humidity.
Yellow spots on leaf blades– perhaps it is a sunburn. What to do: shade the bush.
The lower leaves of Fatsia turn yellow and fall off. If the rest of the plant looks healthy, it's okay - normal renewal of green mass occurs.
The underside of the Fatsia leaf is covered with a brownish, washable fluff.- everything is in order, this is a feature of the structure of the leaf plate.
Fatsia is not growing. If this phenomenon is observed in winter, this is the norm - the shrub has a dormant period, if in summer - there may be a lack of lighting or nutrients. What to do: move to a brighter place and fertilize.
Brownish-yellow rounded swollen dots on the leaf plate - signs of scale insects. The pest is dangerous for fatsia, and, in addition, plants in the neighborhood can become infected. What to do: treat the bush with insecticides.
The beautiful Fatsia is magnificent and can decorate any room. A little easy care- and this green miracle will give you all its natural beauty. (1 ratings, average: 5.00 out of 5)
Fatsia is a plant that has long been loved by gardeners. It gained particular popularity at the beginning of the twentieth century due to the fact that it grows quickly and reproduces easily. This beautiful evergreen shrub amazes with its chic smooth leaves that look like maple leaves. According to the teachings of Feng Shui, fatsia is able to protect the positive atmosphere in the home.
Origin, type and varieties of fatsia
The homeland of fatsia (lat. Fatsia) is Japan, although in the wild this evergreen shrub, reaching 6 meters in height, can be found not only in the “Land of the Rising Sun”, but also along the reservoirs of Taiwan and South Korea. The plant has beautiful leathery leaves of a heart-shaped round shape, which eventually dissect into 5-9 lobes. It is the leaves that are its main advantage and the reason for its enormous popularity. The umbrella inflorescences of white and greenish-yellow colors attract with their sophistication, although they do not have any special decorative value. In nature, Fatsia grows in shady and humid places.
Fatsia belongs to the monotypic genus dicotyledonous plants from the Araliaceae family (Fam. Araliaceae). Only one species is grown indoors - Fatsia japonica. It also has another name - Fatsia Siebold. The plant has been cultivated for about three centuries, but it was brought to Europe much later - in the middle of the 19th century.
Fatsia japonica can reach a height of 1.5 meters, it grows quite quickly (almost doubling in size in a year) and reproduces well. The following varieties are very popular:
- Spider’s Web (white streaks scattered throughout the foliage);
- Variegata (dark green foliage edged with light stripes);
- Annelise (golden shade);
- Murakumo Nishiki (pale yellowish color);
- Tsumugi Shibori (has many white spots).
No less attractive is Fatshedera Lizei, a plant that appeared as a result of crossing Fatsia and common ivy. This hybrid has lobed dark green leaves and thin long stem(up to 5 m).
This is interesting! Fatsia japonica can absorb and throw out all the negativity from the house, thereby creating a warm, peaceful and cozy environment.
Fatsia is sometimes called aralia, although fatsia is a houseplant, and aralia is a garden perennial. The following types of aralia are found in the wild: Manchurian, continental, heart-shaped. The latter (Aralia cordata) is closest in appearance to Fatsia. This is a herbaceous plant with pinnate double leaves on long petioles. In nature, it can be found in clearings, forest edges only on Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. Aralia roots are used with therapeutic purpose- Medicines are made on their basis.
Photo gallery: fatsia varieties
Fatsia variety Spider's Web Fatsia variety Variegata Fatsia variety Mizeri Fatsia variety Tsumugi Shibori Fatsia variety Murakumo Nishiki Fatshedera ordinary Fatshedera variegated
Requirements for the conditions of keeping fatsia
Fatsia is watered with soft, settled water at room temperature. Since the flower loves high air humidity, it needs to be sprayed with water (30 ° C) once a day, placed under warm shower and wipe the leaves soft material. Such procedures are carried out in spring-summer period. Variegated fatsias are more demanding of light and heat. Even during the cold dormant period, they need a temperature of at least 16 ° C.
In winter, the plant is placed in a cooler, but sufficiently lit place. For many gardeners it is extremely difficult to find suitable conditions. In this case, of course, you cannot do without highlighting. The best option- installation of cold-white fluorescent lamps.
For fatsia, 6–8 hours is enough artificial lighting in a day.
Table: fatsia growing conditions
Transplanting a plant
The flower is replanted once a year in the first two years of life, then once every three to four years. After purchase, Fatsia also needs to be replanted in order to replace the plastic pot with a clay pot and change the substrate. The clay pot is selected in diameter larger than the root system of the flower by 3–4 cm and 5 cm deeper than the previous pot, always with drainage holes.
If there is only one hole, then you can drill several more so that the earthen ball does not become waterlogged.
Pores in clay pot will promote rapid evaporation of moisture. A deeper container is needed so that the fatsia roots do not grow into the holes and do not suffer during replanting.
1/3 of the pot is filled with drainage (expanded clay). Suitable soil mixture You can prepare it yourself by taking turf soil, compost soil, peat and coarse sand in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. If necessary, you can cut or break the pot, observing safety precautions. The pot is placed in a tray with wet gravel to prevent the soil from drying out.
If you find rotten spots on the roots of a flower, immediately remove them with a disinfected knife and treat them with crushed charcoal or activated carbon. You should carefully remove the roots that have grown into the holes, since Fatsia reacts painfully to their damage - the leaves may lose turgor.
When filling the plant during transplantation, the root collar is left uncovered. The soil is slightly compacted. Water generously the first time, then for a week as the top layer dries.
Video: fatsia transplant
Flowering, pruning fatsia
Indoor Aralia blooms on rare occasions. Flowering lasts throughout June-August. Flowers - openwork umbrellas are collected in paniculate inflorescences and do not differ in decorative appearance, but they attract with their delicate aroma. In autumn, the plant is strewn with small dark blue berries.
Caution: Fatsia berries are poisonous!
Fatsia pruning is usually done once after replanting to form the crown of young plants. Only young plants are pruned in the first 3 years of life. In older specimens, any pruning worsens the appearance and makes the plant less impressive. Fatshedera is more demanding when it comes to pruning, which is pruned 4–5 times a year. In addition, to determine the shape of the plant, tweezing (pinching the top) is done. This procedure should be treated with caution: touching the leaves of the flower can cause an allergic reaction.
Fatsia in most cases does not need support. It happens when wilted leaves are laid out on spreader sticks so that they become elastic again. The walls of the house can serve as support for the plant.
More often, support is selected for fatshedera, since this plant has a long, thin trunk. It is supported by pillars, grilles, arches, and shop windows.
Table: correcting mistakes in fatsia care
| What happens to the plant | What to do to correct the situation |
| Young leaves have turned yellow |
|
| The leaves are withering | Adjust watering to avoid overwatering or drying out. |
| The leaves are turning pale | Adjust the lighting so that there is no lack or excess of light. |
| Leaves are drying |
|
| Appeared gray coating on the stems the leaves have darkened |
|
| Small leaves, new ones do not grow |
|
| brittle leaves | Increase air humidity. |
| Shriveled leaves | Do not expose the leaves to direct sunlight. |
Fatsia pests and diseases
Table: insecticides for fatsia pest control
The water for the solution is taken warm (25 ° C).
Attention! When working with insecticides, do not forget to take safety precautions: spray in a non-residential area, carefully check the sprayer nozzles to prevent leakage, wear gloves and safety glasses.
Much worse if the reason poor condition indoor aralia are fungal and viral infections. They often cause the death of the plant.
Table: fatsia diseases
Reproduction of Fatsia
Growing fatsia from seeds is a less expensive and labor-intensive method. In most cases, seeds are purchased, since it blooms and bears fruit only in the greenhouse. If you have purchased seeds, try to sow them without delaying until next year, as they quickly lose their viability. Best time for sowing - spring, when you can do without highlighting the sprouts. Fatsia propagation consists of the following steps:
- The seeds are soaked in water at room temperature for two days. If you have a compressor for an aquarium, you can place it there to saturate the water with oxygen. In this case, 10–12 hours of soaking is sufficient.
- The substrate is prepared light and loose - peat and perlite in a 1:1 ratio. If you take sand, sterilize it in a “water bath” or bake it in the oven. To prevent rotting of the seedlings, it is necessary to take a pot with holes. For the same purpose, drainage is placed at the bottom.
- The seeds are evenly distributed over the soil by 0.5 cm and sprinkled with it. thin layer sand The containers are covered with glass or film to prevent moisture from evaporating and placed in dark place for germination. The seeds grow at a temperature of 13–15 °C.
- After about a month, seedlings will appear, and the containers with seedlings are transferred to a warmer 15–18 ° C and well-lit place where direct sunlight does not penetrate.
- Seedlings are picked when the third true leaf appears. The temperature drops to 10–15 ° C. After six months, when the small plants have become stronger, they, along with a lump of earth, are transplanted into pots 8–11 cm high with a nutrient substrate.
There is also a vegetative method of propagation of the eastern beauty - by apical or stem cuttings and air layering:
- The cuttings are cut 10–15 cm long with a sterile instrument (knife or pruning shears).
- The sections are dusted with sulfur or activated carbon.
- Planted in damp sand, pre-soaked for 3 hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator (Charkor, Heteroauxin).
- The containers are covered with plastic film to create a greenhouse effect. Cuttings are germinated at a temperature of 25° C and diffused light.
- After a month, roots appear on the cuttings, which are planted in the prepared soil mixture. Expanded clay is also placed in pots.
Video: fatsia propagation
If the plant takes on an unsightly appearance (the trunk becomes bare, the leaves dry out and wrinkle), it should be given a second life by propagating air layering. To do this you need:
- In early spring, make a small cut on the trunk.
- You can insert a match into the cut area to prevent the cut parts from closing.
- The cut is dusted with Kornevin, and wet moss is placed on the trunk and wrapped with film.
- After the roots have formed, the shoot is cut 3 cm below the root system and transplanted into nutrient soil.
- You can water the lower part and wait for new shoots, or you can experiment and try to graft ivy onto the trunk.
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